DIY Screen for BenQ W1070 - Newbie - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 45 Old 12-21-2013, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I went through some of the posts and still decided to run my project through you guys to get some help and opinions ....

 

Above picture shows the media room and some specs. I tried to capture all the information to get as much help as possible. I would greatly appreciate if i could get help in following aspects ...

 

1) Projector - My budget is $1000 and would like to see if W1070 is a good choice .

2) My calculations: Throw, aspect r, size and location

3) Screen budget: $120 -- I can make a basic frame and staple something on it or paint it. Room paint is whitish. I am ready to paint it as well. Not sure about screen at all. I went through so many posts that kinda confused. Every project is different depending on need and ambiance.....so need help for this specific situation.

4) PJ over the head? 

 

Thanks in advance

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post #2 of 45 Old 12-21-2013, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Screen size = 130 diagonal (120x50)

Sorry ...my bad

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post #3 of 45 Old 12-23-2013, 11:23 AM
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I just finished my Man Cave and also have the W1070.  I have a lot of success with a standard 8 x 4 sheet of white PVC foam board that I stuck to a nice flat wall with contact cement. I framed it with 2 by half inch wood sprayed black and it all looks great. Very sharp picture. The finish on the foam board is a satin so its ideal.  $26 at my DIY center !

 

Cheers.  Buster.


HTPC. Yamaha RX-V673 AVR. Yamaha BD-S 673 BR/DVD. Energy Take Classis 5.1. Ben-Q W1070 Projector. 100" Screen. Four Lazy Boyz.    One serving wench.  Lap dancing facilities.
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post #4 of 45 Old 12-23-2013, 02:55 PM
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Busterbvi-
What foam board are you using?
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post #5 of 45 Old 12-24-2013, 04:54 AM
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Im not sure thats the correct name for it. Its 2 thin sheets of white PVC bonded to a foam core sandwich. Comes in standard 8 x 4 sheets in various thicknesses. I used quarter inch.  Easy to cut with a good utility knife if you need to. When its up, shine the test screen on it and clean each square with Soft Scrub after peeling off the clear protective film.  Be carefull to choose a sheet in perfect condition at the store with no surface dents or imperfections.  Im delighted with mine but this is my first PJ set up so I dont know how much better it would be if I covered it in proper screen material ?  I trimmed mine slightly to match the screen size which is just over 100" diag.

 

Make sure the PVC foam board is a SATIN or FLAT finish !


HTPC. Yamaha RX-V673 AVR. Yamaha BD-S 673 BR/DVD. Energy Take Classis 5.1. Ben-Q W1070 Projector. 100" Screen. Four Lazy Boyz.    One serving wench.  Lap dancing facilities.
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post #6 of 45 Old 12-24-2013, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guslogie View Post

Screen size = 130 diagonal (120x50)
Sorry ...my bad

Hey Gus,

Welcome to the DIY Screen Forum and a merry Christmas to ya as well!

Use either Sintra or Komatex PVC "Expanded" Foam board. 60" x 120" cut down to 50" tall. Mount it either directy on the wall, or on a 1x6 frame with 2" of frame protruding from all sides.

The protruding edge can be used to both attach the frame directly to the wall and serve as a "ledge' to place screen trim onto,,,which of course allows one to cover up the fasteners used to affix the Frame to the wall.

Now the "Grinch'y" part of it all. frown.gif

Depending upon your location, such material will cost approx $90.00 minimum, and you'll want to coat it with something, so your screen budget limitation of 100.00 is pretty stretched already. Also, if a 2.39:1 format is your desire, the w1070 is not the best choice, not having Lens Memory, so you'll have to fiddle with Zoom, the Lens Shift, and Focus at every Format change-over... and you would need to both place your Screen according to the need to mask off the 16:9 Light Overspill (...the screen's top edge needs to be at minimum 16 " from the Ceiling...) and the Wall (...behind the screen...) will need to be painted or covered in a dark, non-reflective manner. Also, please clarify the difference between "PJ Wall" and "Screen Wall"?

If the "Screen wall" is just 7' 5", then you'll have the Ceiling's own reflectivity to deal with and it will be just as critical as any other aspect of your build.

You don't mention 3D viewing, but in any case, you'd be best served by placing the PJ at 12', and with the lens at 12" down from the Ceiling.

None of the above is intended to dissuade you from your plans, just make you aware of the wants and needs to effect a quality end result.

Busterbvi,

Without providing a Product Name and Store location, the information provided is essentially useless for anyone else to consider.
(...and it seems the source / material restrains users to screens at/under 98" diagonal in any case...)

Ante up!

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #7 of 45 Old 12-24-2013, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


Hey Gus,

Welcome to the DIY Screen Forum and a merry Christmas to ya as well!

Use either Sintra or Komatex PVC "Expanded" Foam board. 60" x 120" cut down to 50" tall. Mount it either directy on the wall, or on a 1x6 frame with 2" of frame protruding from all sides.

The protruding edge can be used to both attach the frame directly to the wall and serve as a "ledge' to place screen trim onto,,,which of course allows one to cover up the fasteners used to affix the Frame to the wall.

Now the "Grinch'y" part of it all. frown.gif

Depending upon your location, such material will cost approx $90.00 minimum, and you'll want to coat it with something, so your screen budget limitation of 100.00 is pretty stretched already. Also, if a 2.39:1 format is your desire, the w1070 is not the best choice, not having Lens Memory, so you'll have to fiddle with Zoom, the Lens Shift, and Focus at every Format change-over... and you would need to both place your Screen according to the need to mask off the 16:9 Light Overspill (...the screen's top edge needs to be at minimum 16 " from the Ceiling...) and the Wall (...behind the screen...) will need to be painted or covered in a dark, non-reflective manner. Also, please clarify the difference between "PJ Wall" and "Screen Wall"?

If the "Screen wall" is just 7' 5", then you'll have the Ceiling's own reflectivity to deal with and it will be just as critical as any other aspect of your build.

You don't mention 3D viewing, but in any case, you'd be best served by placing the PJ at 12', and with the lens at 12" down from the Ceiling.

None of the above is intended to dissuade you from your plans, just make you aware of the wants and needs to effect a quality end result.

Busterbvi,

Without providing a Product Name and Store location, the information provided is essentially useless for anyone else to consider.
(...and it seems the source / material restrains users to screens at/under 98" diagonal in any case...)

Ante up!

 

 

Back off with the Ante up crap !  I live in the Virgin Islands so the store and product info will be about as much use as a bag of chips with the bottom blown out !!. I was trying to be helpfull by sharing my success with PVC foam board for a 100 inch screen. I didnt take note of the Manufacturer of the stuff but my guess is PVC foam board is PVC foam board anywhere you go !!

 

Merry Christmas.


HTPC. Yamaha RX-V673 AVR. Yamaha BD-S 673 BR/DVD. Energy Take Classis 5.1. Ben-Q W1070 Projector. 100" Screen. Four Lazy Boyz.    One serving wench.  Lap dancing facilities.
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post #8 of 45 Old 12-24-2013, 07:21 PM
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Hi!

 

I just ordered a W1070 as well, would like to do a DIY Screen, and am a complete newbie.  I live in a pretty big loft so I can't control the light fully but I have blinds and usually watch TV at night.  The area that I would like to set it up in is about 10 feet wide by 20 feet long and has 10 foot ceilings. My walls are white but I have a faux-wood temporary wall paper up on the wall that I want to put the screen on.  There is so much info in these forums that its easy to get lost and overwhelmed. I would love to have someone advise me, as if I were an idiot, as to what my best options are for a DIY screen. 

 

Thank you all so much in advance!

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post #9 of 45 Old 12-25-2013, 07:51 AM
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I too have a W1070, very nice PJ for what you pay. Currently projecting on a Spandex screen.

The simplest route would be a sheet of WA-DW laminate or a sheet of Sintra/Komatex. You just hang and shoot, and it will keep you within budget.

However, if you want to make it nicer you can either paint the Sintra/Komatex with a neutral white or gray. You can also build a Spandex screen. These two options would likely take you over the $120 budget. There are various build threads around on Spandex and painted screens.
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post #10 of 45 Old 12-25-2013, 01:58 PM
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Hi, I am a little confused here. I would have thought that doing a DIY screen was to save money. Now at around $120 we here in Australia can buy a very nice motorised 120" diagonal screen delivered so why do a DIY?? My motorised 120" screen cost me $50 from ebay, ot was cheaper as it had a dent in the case at the back so you cannot see it when ceiling mounted, bargain and it is 1st class viewing.
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post #11 of 45 Old 12-25-2013, 02:37 PM
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It is all about being happy about your choice. But don't doubt that the value of DIY rests in getting more than you pay for....not just accepting what you get for your money.

Your confusion must come from not being able to judge the difference because you have not attempted making yourself a screen. Many have made excellent screens for well under $100. You are very fortunate to have gotten a decent manufactured motorized retractable screen for so little. As stated before, its all about you being happy.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #12 of 45 Old 12-25-2013, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Your confusion must come from not being able to judge the difference because you have not attempted making yourself a screen.

How wrong you are ... not good to make assumptions. Check out the old saying 'Assume makes an ass .....'

Just remember that just because you may have quite a few posts on a particular web site does not make you the keeper of all knowledge and experience. Don't dare talk down to people who you know nothing about.

I have made several projection screens, the first in the 1980's when I built my first small theater for previewing training films and putting together slide shows. So I do know the difference!!. BUT ... horses for courses my current screen is in a multi use room so a fixed screen cannot be used.

My original question was to query the point of making a screen at a significant cost over a very good commercial screen. Sometimes people loose sight of the goal.
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post #13 of 45 Old 12-25-2013, 09:28 PM
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OZ, you are correct that the value of DIY screens had diminished greatly over the years. When I built my first screen, it was a laminate and probably cost less than a 100 total. At that time, manufactured screens were at least 400-500.

With my recent screens build, both painted and spandex, materials alone cost well over 100, and close to 200. These days, for 200-300 you can buy a pretty decent manufactured screen.

However, for those of us that still like to experiment with the different type of screens, I think it's still worth the DIY route. Also, there's something about telling your friends and neighbors that you built that screen just makes me feel pretty darn good. tongue.gif

If I have $2k-$3k sitting in my pockets, then I would get myself a really, really nice screen and forget about it for the next 5-7 years.
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post #14 of 45 Old 12-25-2013, 10:08 PM
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Fair enough smokarz, sure if you want to DIY then go for it. By the way my first screen was a sheet of MDF, sanded painted and framed. And, yes I was pretty proud of it as well. At the time it had to fit a custom space and a commercial one didn't fit and was unfordable. Bearing in mind that all AV gear was essentially commercial at the time, e.g. my projector, a demo model, was over AU$4500, low grade LCD. Funny when you compare it with the Benq W1070 I have now, full HD and 3D!!

My point was that we need to keep a clear perspective on the end goal, what ever that is for an individual. I think sometimes we can get caught up in the process and spend excessively when there is a ready made alternative available. Check out the options and costs first then go right ahead with whichever option you choose.
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post #15 of 45 Old 12-26-2013, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your contributions and suggestions. I have changed few things and provided some corrections for my project as follows

 

PJ = BenQ W1070

Room Size: 19' x 14' with 9' ceiling height

PJ Screen wall = 14' x 9'

AR = 16:9 (As recommended by MississipiMan)

Ambient light in the media room

 

Calculations:

Throw Dist = 13' 1"

Image size = 120" diagonal (104.7" x 59")

Screen gain: 1.0

Zoom: 1.00x

Recommended seating: 12'3" - 19'3"

Max room lighting - 6% (2 fc)

PJ screen bottom edge to floor - 22"

PJ screen top edge to ceiling: 24"

Screen Frame: 1x3

 

Changes:

Ambient light - Paint room and ceiling 

Window covers etc

Sometimes -- Should be able to watch videos with some ambient light as well. (So so quality should be okay for this - Sunday morning )

 

DIY Screen: I can buy Elite fixed frame screen for $371. Highly versatile CineWhite 1.1 flat-tensioned screen material with standard black backing to eliminate light penetration.

 

Now my DIY project involves two objectives. 

1) Sense of accomplishment without compromising on quality

2) Getting more for bucks - as i understand in DIY; one can use suitable materials to match media room conditions and make better screen in same budget than elite mentioned above. 

 

I thought $120 is enough to get a good screen. if not; i am willing to spend more than $200 but should be able to get comparable quality screen which is more suitable to my media room project. So i thought DIY screen should be something that can be developed based on one's needs. I am not good at painting. so option of buying screen material and affixing it on a frame sounds good unless one can get better results with painted screens (Silverfire something.....as i could recall from some DIY screen posts)

 

Sintra

Spandex

Silverfire

 

etc...

 

please review calculations above and recommend changes as needed !! based on final configuration ...please recommend good screen raw materials and tips for constructions. 

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post #16 of 45 Old 12-29-2013, 01:26 PM
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Following along with my popcorn in hand. Very interested in where this thread goes as I am in a very similar situation with the same projector.
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post #17 of 45 Old 12-30-2013, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Please help ... PJ is in and looks great on room wall itself. I am worried about accuracy of above calculations ! Is 120 inch screen too big for my 19'L x14'W room. Is throw distance right? How does throw distance affect lamp life and 3D? What are pros and cons if short throw vs long throw? Please help me with the calculations ! I am leaning towards buying a decent fixed frame screen for this projector. Please advice.
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post #18 of 45 Old 12-31-2013, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guslogie View Post

Please help ... PJ is in and looks great on room wall itself. I am worried about accuracy of above calculations ! Is 120 inch screen too big for my 19'L x14'W room. Is throw distance right? How does throw distance affect lamp life and 3D? What are pros and cons if short throw vs long throw? Please help me with the calculations ! I am leaning towards buying a decent fixed frame screen for this projector. Please advice.


I have a 120" screen (painted Sintra) with my W1070. The throw distance is roughly 11' if I remember correctly. Overall room size is 14' x 12', so I know the 120" will work in your room. And for the record, there is no such thing as TOO BIG when it comes to projector screens (my opinion of course). Thats why we get a projector in the first place.

I painted the sintra with the Silverfire mix as discussed in various threads on here. I'm not sure if you need to go that route or not, but if you will have ambient light in your room, a gray screen will improve the image quality with ambient light tremendously. For Sunday afternoon football on a white screen it was unabearable how washed out the image was. Now that I have a gray screen it makes a huge difference.

If I was going to start it over again, I would probably find a simple no mix paint solution of a neutral gray and start there. It all depends on what you would use it for.

The thread here shows where I started with the paint mix and the result I ended up with. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482507/suggestions-for-a-no-mix-painted-screen-benq-w1070

AND, the throw distance has no bearing on lamp life or 3D.. In theory the closer the projector is mounted to the wall, the brighter the picture. I have found that I always run the projector in ecomode, which will extend lamp life. Only when I use it for 3d is there a need to switch to the normal lamp mode.
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post #19 of 45 Old 12-31-2013, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farleyville View Post

I have a 120" screen (painted Sintra) with my W1070. The throw distance is roughly 11' if I remember correctly. Overall room size is 14' x 12', so I know the 120" will work in your room. And for the record, there is no such thing as TOO BIG when it comes to projector screens (my opinion of course). Thats why we get a projector in the first place.

I painted the sintra with the Silverfire mix as discussed in various threads on here. I'm not sure if you need to go that route or not, but if you will have ambient light in your room, a gray screen will improve the image quality with ambient light tremendously. For Sunday afternoon football on a white screen it was unabearable how washed out the image was. Now that I have a gray screen it makes a huge difference.

If I was going to start it over again, I would probably find a simple no mix paint solution of a neutral gray and start there. It all depends on what you would use it for.

The thread here shows where I started with the paint mix and the result I ended up with. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482507/suggestions-for-a-no-mix-painted-screen-benq-w1070

AND, the throw distance has no bearing on lamp life or 3D.. In theory the closer the projector is mounted to the wall, the brighter the picture. I have found that I always run the projector in ecomode, which will extend lamp life. Only when I use it for 3d is there a need to switch to the normal lamp mode.


Exactly!

If you watch in daylight or with ambient light, go with a no mix neutral gray. If you're in a completely dark room with no light, go with a no mix neutral white.

Easy, cheap, and you'll be happy.
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post #20 of 45 Old 12-31-2013, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guslogie View Post

Please help ... PJ is in and looks great on room wall itself. I am worried about accuracy of above calculations ! Is 120 inch screen too big for my 19'L x14'W room. Is throw distance right? How does throw distance affect lamp life and 3D? What are pros and cons if short throw vs long throw?

Throw distance "DOES" have much to do with both brightness and Lamp Life,as well as 3D performance

  1. The greater the throw distance, the more reduction there is in the amount of received lumen output, and therein the amount of foot lambert reflected off the screen.
  2. If maximum brightness is desired, and in fact is needed because of a greater Throw distance, then Normal Lamp mode ...and often brighter Viewing Modes become required, not optional.
  3. 3D presentation modes greatly reduce the lumen output of virtually all projectors. Longer Throw distances will decrease 3D brightness even further.
  4. If longer Lamp Life is desired, as well as optimal 3D performance and a vibrant image in non-3D mode, shorter Throw Distance and Low Lamp mode must be combined. (...it should be noted that some PJs default to Normal Lamp mode in 3D....)

Minimizing Throw Distance, choosing the right Screen size in relation to PJ selection/performance...content viewing, and selecting a screen surface that optimizes the performance of any given PJ in any given mode/s is what can assure one of achieving the best possible results. You cannot give ground on one or more of those criteria without reducing the ability of have what is an optimal setup.

Of course all of the above being available and in place constitutes a "perfect world" and many if not most of us cannot dwell in such. But just the same, there are ways to "get around" necessary limitations....some which are easy, some which demand a change in planning and /or thinking.

If the OP wants a big screen, and optimized performance, there are set and known ways and methods to allow for such. Failure to address or suggest such alternatives amounts to a gross disservice.

It is important to directly address someone's questions / requests, and resist trying to select a singular statement and "shout it" for emphasis, especially if such does nothing to help resolve the issue at hand....only express a personal opinion.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #21 of 45 Old 12-31-2013, 09:25 AM
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Come on MM, let's try to keep this thread clean shall we? We just want to help and keep this DIY spirit going.

Some disclaimers:

I own a W1070.

I have projected on both neutral white and neutral gray paint.

A neutral paint will give you brightness/picture uniformity across the board. A high gain screen will risk hot spotting, cause brightness non uniformity, decrease viewing angle.

My suggestion/recommendation to the OP is valid within the context of his question ("DIY Screen for W1070") of which I have personal experiences with.

If the OP deems that my suggestion, based on my experience with this specific projector is not worthy, he can choose to ignore.

I strongly believe DIY should be cost effective, straight forward, and returns good values. A can of neutral paint, grabbed off of the shelves for $20-$30 hits it perfectly. Now that's a personal opinion;)

OP, if you like more info on neutral paints, take a look at the article below. This comes from someone that own reference screens and review projectors for a living. I am sure he has much more credibility than any of us around here.


http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm
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post #22 of 45 Old 12-31-2013, 05:01 PM
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I am planning on starting with an off the shelf silver screen (behr) followed by a silver fire (3.0) to see the difference. I have a Benq w1070 which will be mounted on the short side of the throw for a 98" screen. Going to post pics on both my build thread and In a separate thread. I'm guessing the sf 3.0 will be worth the trouble. Can't wait to get it all done
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post #23 of 45 Old 01-03-2014, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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With your help; i have got the point where PJ and sound system is done. Watched a bluray movie last nite with image projected on the media room screen. Not bad i would say !! 

 

Now ....moving forward to finish it off before super bowl !! i have following things still unclear. As i said; i am not an expert and handyman. I would not understand anything clearly in above posts in regard to screen. Rest of the things are great ....when such information is difficult to deduce from online reading. So i really appreciate your expert opinions and experiences. 

 

Now for the screen. I am willing to spend $200. 

AR: 16:9

Throw: 12'

Screen size: 127" dia (110" x 62" ) is perfect for  my room ( after watching 4 movies and some TV)

 

Based on above posts, I would need more help. Please elaborate on one of the good option from following. please provide more description on DIY steps as i am not that good with it.

 

!! No painting on the room walls !!

2) Paint on some kind of board - Sintra/Komatex with Sherwin-Williams ProClassic, Extra White, Satin, Smooth Enamel Finish, # B20 W 51.

3) Fixed frame with fabric

4) Fixed frame with fabric and paint SF on it

5) if not; i will going for an off the shelf option with 120" screen -- $$309 (Elite Screens ER120WH1 SableFrame Fixed Projection Screen (120" Diag. 16:9 Ratio 59"Hx104.7"W)

 

Please help me as i am not going anywhere with the screen aspect of my project. 

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post #24 of 45 Old 01-03-2014, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm

 

This article does specify use of some kind of board to paint on. But new specifies the details of the board used to paint. If somebody knows please provide details of the board. 

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post #25 of 45 Old 01-03-2014, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Nobody has expanded PVC in 6x12 size
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post #26 of 45 Old 01-04-2014, 07:29 AM
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Do you HAVE TO have a 127" screen?

A 5x10 sheet of sintra/komatex would give you roughly a 120" screen. 5x10 sheet is much easier to find.

Look at my build thread where I paint Sherwin Williams gray before switching to the white.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1395140/diy-gray-screen
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post #27 of 45 Old 01-04-2014, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guslogie View Post

Nobody has expanded PVC in 6x12 size

Actually, 60" x 107" = 122" diagonal 16:9. That's just a case of accepting a screen surface only 5" less diagonal to use a material ideally suited for your purpose.

Beyond that, to get larger, the best solution for the least expense is Flexi-White stretched onto a frame.
http://www.carlofet.com/projector-screen-material/flexiwhite-projector-screen-raw-material.html

That option would allow you to try it out without Paint, the move on if you determine you want to.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #28 of 45 Old 01-05-2014, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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I am willing to accept 122" screen.
So final configuration would be;
Sintra/komatex board 5x10 size
Paint --Sherwin-Williams ProClassic, Extra White, Satin, Smooth Enamel Finish, # B20 W 51
Frame: please post location MM tutorial on framing
Hanging : there are so many option. Please recommend a good method
Painting: tips and tricks to avoid painting errors esp for DIY screens

Thank you MM & smokarz ....kudos

Now screen project is taking shape !! Thanks to all contributors.
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post #29 of 45 Old 01-05-2014, 02:08 PM
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I love hangman cleats for hanging screens onto walls. With all 3 of my screens, I've used this method.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-Hangman-200-lb-French-Cleat-Picture-Hanger-with-Wall-Dog-Mounting-Screws-13-Pack-55316/202341629#.UsnW27Ss-AQ



Why would you need to build a frame? The Sintra/Komatex is very strong and solid. It can stands on its own without a support frame.

If you're talking about trim borders wrapped in black velvet for the screen edges, take a look at my build thread.

As for rolling, use a quality 1/4" or 3/16" nap roller. Don't go cheap, spend a little extra for a quality roller. You want a very smooth surface.

I PM you a link for rolling techniques.
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post #30 of 45 Old 01-07-2014, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I have found a local vendor who provides Expanded PVS board in 5 x 10 size. As per MM, I should be able to get 122" screen ( 60" x 106"). So i have to cut 120" down to 106". After this i am not getting the framing concept right. If i would like to have a black velvet border around the screen then LED bead around it in the back ground. Find below conceptual drawing with cross-section view. I will be cutting the board in size then make a frame and glue the screen to frame ( its 6 mm thick only so i don't want to use mechanical fasteners) then put LED bead below the frame in background and then hang it on wall using french cleats. Not sure where would i get frame cross-section like an angle as shown.  

 

 

 

Paint ....... really really confused. I am not an expert and willing to buy off the shelf paint and paint accessories (Tray, tray cover, sanding block, and 1/4" nap roller). Based on some reading i understand that the DIY painting is a big deal of science. I went through MM posts and understand that i would need a grey paint. Please recommend me a simple grey paint (off the shelf) for some ambient light viewing. I found this very rough guide posted in 2007. Not sure how much of this is still valid. I also understand that SF 2.3 is best but i guess cant handle the paint mixing and spraying. Thats why i want to go a simple route of off the shelf paint with nap roller. Please recommend a good paint grey paint which can be bought locally (Home depot, lowes, dedicated paint stores ). Find below summary of grey paint recommendations....

 

Xrite N7 Tint Formula {Ultra Dark Gray}

Quart Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
124 Lamp Black
028 Brown Oxide
012 Medium Yellow

Gallon Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
496 Lamp Black
112 Brown Oxide
048 Medium Yellow


~N7.5 DIY Tint {Extra Dark Gray}

Quart Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
093 Lamp Black
021 Brown Oxide
009 Medium Yellow

Gallon Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
372 Lamp Black
084 Brown Oxide
036 Medium Yellow


~N8 DIY Tint {Dark Gray}

Quart Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1850,4850)
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
062 Lamp Black
014 Brown Oxide
006 Medium Yellow

Gallon Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
248 Lamp Black
056 Brown Oxide
024 Medium Yellow


~N8.5 DIY Tint {Medium Gray}

Quart Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
048 Lamp Black
011 Brown Oxide
005 Medium Yellow

Gallon Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
192 Lamp Black
043 Brown Oxide
019 Medium Yellow


~N9 DIY Tint {Light Gray}

Quart Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
031 Lamp Black
007 Brown Oxide
003 Yellow Oxide

Gallon Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1750,1850,4850)
124 Lamp Black
028 Brown Oxide
012 Medium Yellow

Updated: 2009-08-18

NOTE: I have had the same tint formulas mixed in all three Behr bases, #1050, #1850, and #4850. Under room lighting, light from the projector, and bright sun light I have not been able to detect any significant difference. There may well be a measurable difference with a spectrometer though.


Very Loose Gray Scale Selection Guide


White Screen - Untinted Behr UPW (1050,1850,4850)

This is probably the easiest screen shade to specify the conditions for. A darkened room with no ambient light, dark colored ceiling, and dark colored walls. This would obviously be a dedicated theater room. A typical light colored living room with vertical blinds and all the lights turned off does not qualify. If you do in fact have a room that is suitable for a white screen then you should probably reconsider the

Wilsonart "Designer White" laminate as the best white DIY screen surface. 
Light Gray - ~N9 Tinted Behr UPW (1050,1850,4850)

This can be a good selection for a dedicated theater as well. If your projector has weak blacks, there will be some low level ambient light, or your room colors are not really dark, a light gray can be beneficial. You may actually find that when the room is fully darkened the light gray is almost identical to a white screen.


Medium Gray - ~N8.5 Tinted Behr UPW (1050,1850,4850)

This is really just a compromise shade for those unsure if they want a light gray or a dark gray. It may also be a good choice if your projector has a video optimized output of less than 400 Lumens and/or your screen is larger than 100" 16:9. If you will be using your screen in a light colored living room but plan on turning all the lights off and completely block any windows this may also be a good choice.


Dark Gray - ~N8 Tinted Behr UPW (1050,1850,4850)

This is the shade of gray that will tolerate fairly high ambient light conditions while still allowing a home theater projector in the 400 lumen range light up a 100" 16:9 screen. For example, a living room with light colored surfaces, and enough undirected light on to read and/or eat dinner.


Extra Dark Gray - ~N7.5 Tinted Behr UPW (1050,1850,4850)

This would be a good shade for a screen in a public area where a fairly bright presentation projector is being used. A small conference room with a presentation projector in the 2000 lumen range. This is probably not a good shade for a home theater projector. This would be a good shade for a softly lit pub with a projector like the Optoma EP1690 which was measure to put out over 1000 lumens when fined tuned for a high-contrast image.


Ultra Dark Gray - Xrite N7 Tinted Behr UPW (1050,1850,4850)

If you have a veritable light cannon and need to use it in fairly bright ambient light conditions, then this would be the shade to consider. This might be a good shade for a well lit restaurant and a projector like the Sanyo PLV-WF10 projector. At 4000 measured lumens with both lamps on and half that with one lamp on it will be able to light up a very dark gray screen.

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