Help, i'm a beginner, and there is too many choices here .. can someone help? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-07-2014, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm at my third DIY screen, in 6 years...
first was a 110 diagonal on gyproc with metalic sivler paint covered in berh white with a roller.. reslults pretty good actually, but my standards have gone up since.
5 years ago, i had a controlled light environnement with 120 diag screen and Mitsubishi HC1500 720P and the paint was simply a perle Behr with smooth roller agian on gyproc.. but really, that was pretty good.. i thought i would up it and read the projector central DIY post on a 100$... Painting the Perfect Screen for $100...that recommend ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Finish from Sherwin Willians.

I did it , the one stop shop.. contrast, color and whites are all spot on.. but i can see hot spots on roller marks... so i'm thinking another coat to improve smootheness (because second coat was better the first) or do i go with whole new receipy. I can paint, even with a gun if really nessessary, but roller is easier, ..

i have read through the posts, and there is just too much info , i can't get the information I need.

I am runnig a PT-AE 8000 in very ligth controlled room (little or none) utra matte dak paint and directionnal lights.. i have 125 inch diagonal screen that is 14 feet from the projector. I want a more precise image and no hot flashes and roller marks..

any suggestions??

thanks..
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-08-2014, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rash1 View Post

I'm at my third DIY screen, in 6 years...
first was a 110 diagonal on gyproc with metalic sivler paint covered in berh white with a roller.. reslults pretty good actually, but my standards have gone up since.
5 years ago, i had a controlled light environnement with 120 diag screen and Mitsubishi HC1500 720P and the paint was simply a perle Behr with smooth roller agian on gyproc.. but really, that was pretty good.. i thought i would up it and read the projector central DIY post on a 100$... Painting the Perfect Screen for $100...that recommend ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Finish from Sherwin Willians.

I did it , the on stop shop.. contrast, color and whites are all spot on.. but i can see hot spots on roller marks... so i'm thinking another coat to improve smootheness (because second coat was better the first) or do i go with whole new receipe. I can paint, even with a gun if really nessessary, but roller is easier, ..

i have read through the posts, and there is just too much info , i can't get the information I need.

I am runnig a PT-AE 8000 in very ligth controlled room, I want a more precise image and no hot flashes and roller marks..

any suggestions??

thanks..

Yes. Sand the surface using a large, Fine Grit Sanding sponge (3" x 8" x 1") found in the Drywall Tools section at Home Depot.

Then "Duster Spray" on three coats of The same paint, only in a Matte sheen...ditch the Satin. The suggested "$100.00" screen formula was / is flawed in concept, being wholly dependent upon a virtually perfect job at rolling. If emphasis on spraying had been made, and a effort to list affordable gear been done, it would have been more promising. But really refining DIY is the domain of this Forum, so................,

If you absolutely want superb performance with the Panny 8K, you should only consider spraying from here on.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-08-2014, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, i am equiped with a HVLP car sprayer, but just for little jobs, so my experience is not super high... Thanks for the info... should i go spray with the same paint or go to matte sheen.. cause i will sand and spray anyway.. Thanks by the way for the input..
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-08-2014, 08:47 AM
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Play it safe and use Matte. You can get a Quart of Matte and mix it with a Quart of the Satin, then thin that 1/2 gallon with 8 oz pure water and strain. That should be more than enough if your spraying 3 coats over a previously painted White base coat you have effectively sanded smooth.

If your using a compressor-fed HVLP be sure to also use a Water / Rust Filter, and experiment a bit to get the right viscosity (thinness) of the paint by adding water and mixing very well...then filtering the thinned paint. Tr y to use no larger than a 1.5 - 1.6 mm needle. A 1.0 mm needle is optimal, but additional thinning and at least 1 additional Duster coat (4 total) may be required. And practice to get both technique, distance, speed, and row overlap down to a science.

Review the several Threads that give mixing / straining / spraying instructions...follow the directions explicitly, and you'll nail down a great screen.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-08-2014, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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I see, it's more technique than material... i mean,the paint isn't as important as how it is applied.. thanks i will use your tricks to make a better screen.. and i'll keep reading and getting info on this forum...smile.gif
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-09-2014, 06:24 AM
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Well, the properties inherent in the paint used and how such will perform is a huge factor, brook no doubt about that....or we all could simply use basic Whites & Grays.

Advanced DIY Screen paint apps that have higher reflective tendencies (...but not "sheen"...) benefit greatly from spraying, if indeed they do not demand such.

In your case, using a paint with a degree of sheen, spraying reduces the tendency of such a sheen to be excessive, as well as prevents such sheen from highlighting application errors like those nasty Roller Marks.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-13-2014, 06:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, i will sand and reroll after thinning paint, because it has much improved after 2nd coat and i found it was thick and my roller wash not really for smooth surface. .. after that i will see if it deserves taping, and platic covering the whole room like in Dexter épisodes...eek.gifeek.gif
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-14-2014, 12:31 AM
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Dexter eh?

Funny how that keeps coming up as a comparative example.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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