Carl's Silverscreen material? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 02-09-2014, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi all. I'm entirely new to projector screens in general and I was planning on buying a BenQ W1070 and I'll be needing a screen to go with it. I've looked at all sorts of options and from sample images and videos I've seen online, silver type screens seem to really preserve the color and blacks without washing out the image in ambient light situations. So I was looking for a cheap easy way to get a silver screen and came across Carl's Silverscreen material:

http://www.amazon.com/Carls-SilverScreen-16-Projector-Material/dp/B00DZSBGG6/ref=sr_1_51?m=A1TUL287LCIBXW&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1391951977&sr=1-51

 

But I notice it says its recommended for passive 3D and not active 3D. Can anybody tell me why? And would this not be good for 2D? I see a lot about DIY silver paints, but I can't really find any reviews on this material. I will watch 3D movies, but also be watching a lot of 2D movies and video games. Most of the time the room will have no light, but it is about 12' x 15' with a white ceiling and off-white walls. I'd like to have it tolerable watching during the day though. I used the online calculator and I'm expecting a 92-95" screen. I'm open to any ideas, really... so any help is appreciated. Looking to spend under $250.

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post #2 of 14 Old 02-09-2014, 07:17 AM
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I'll offer up the Info....

I went up to Carl's location last year to overview all his offerings. One of the ones was the Silver Screen material, as I was anxious to see just what it might pertain to as far as having multi-use potential.

It did in fact turn out to have an actual "Metalized" coating, something that is essential in preserving the polarity of the combined images that is part of the reproduction of Passive 3D imagery.

However such Metal Content comes with a price.....substantial graininess and a high degree of retro-reflectivity. Active 3D does not need a Polarized Screen...only a screen that delivers a bright image, the latter due to the fact that most all 3D projectors have to deal with a substantial drop in lumen output when 3D is engaged.

Also, many newer 2D/3D PJs have pretty good contrast specs. and good contrast is very important in reproducing the shadow detail and depth in 3D imagery.

So White Screens get the nod for Active 3D most often, with mid-to-high gain White screens being most preferred.

But...white high gain surfaces can also work against effective performance, especially if a room's nearby surfaces are too reflective, and any rebounding light gets cast back across the surface of the screen. That results in a decided loss of contrast and color vibrancy...which in turn grossly affects 3D realism.

A Gray, high contrast surface would be /is better for combating such loss of contrast, but most Gray surfaces are not even 1.0 gain so they would detract terribly from the brightness of an image in 3D mode.

A perfect combination would be a Gray Screen with a minimum of 1.3 gain, ambient light resistance, and a decidedly smooth, artifact-free surface....something especially important in this age of Full 1080p HD 3D imagery.

Many feel that DIY Screen coatings such as Silver Fire / RS-MaxxMudd applied onto smooth surfaces can fill that order the most effectively, on both a performance and cost related basis. Yes, they usually require the expense of the paint, possibly the purchase of an applicable but inexpensive airless HVLP gun, and the time involved in prep work and painting...but the end result, often being $2-3000.00 less than the only viable Mfg counterparts usually squashes most resistance to those requirements.

In the end it's all about making the decision that is right for any given situation. Smaller Screens mated with brighter PJs, both within rooms effectively designed and painted in non-reflective colors obviously need less assistance than large screens with lower lumen PJ in less appropriate locations. And in every imaginable combination.

That is why all of us are here, to offer advice and suggestions, as well as help when needed so members can zero in on why would be the most effective solution possible...or barring that, the solution most readily obtainable within their means to acquire such.

After all of that, your short answer would be a screen made from Thrifty White Hardboard mounted onto a Poplar Framework, coated with sprayed on Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 and trimmed in Black Velvet wrapped MDF Baseboard Trim.

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post #3 of 14 Old 02-09-2014, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. Lots of useful info. I think I'll go that route assuming I'm not affected by the w1070's rainbow effect too much. In which case I may have to rethink everything.

Are there any good examples online of the Silver Fire paints compared to the standard gray screens? (Most I've seen are less than 1.0 gain though)
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post #4 of 14 Old 02-10-2014, 01:22 AM
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I and others have posted a great many examples of SF applications, most all in significant amounts of ambient light. A large selection can be found on any / all of the various Threads with Silver Fire within their titles if you do your searching here:
http://www.avsforum.com/newsearch/?search=&advanced=1&sort=lastupdate&order=descending&type=35&createdbyuserid[]=50111

Tellingly, you cannot find many...if hardly any such representations of simple Gray painted surfaces because they simply don not get posted. I believe...without bias...that is because they are basically representations of efforts that amount to being basic solutions that while sufficient for the needs and budgets of those that do them, they do not exhibit the performance required to show anything comparable to the more advanced DIY offerings.

This also applied to Mfg Gray Screens, so I'm not just singling out DIY efforts here.

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post #5 of 14 Old 03-20-2014, 10:32 AM
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Please forgive me perpetuating an aging thread but...

I need a single-ply screen material and I don't want any complications. I need to roll this up to the ceiling when not in use. Too, I'm not able to do complicated engineering or building anymore... my mind and body are shot. Will this material fit my needs? Should I choose white or silver? Given the complications of 3D, though I would like that option, it seems it's not practicable in my situation. My HT room is my main large room and although I can blackout the windows I don't want to paint the walls dark.
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post #6 of 14 Old 03-21-2014, 05:40 AM
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I wouldn't use it....it doesn't have very good reviews. I suggest Carl's "Pro-White" or better still, the "Flexi-White". 3D demands as much reflectivity as possible. Be sure that anything you do order is shipped "On a Roll" to begin with.

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post #7 of 14 Old 03-21-2014, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I wouldn't use it....it doesn't have very good reviews. I suggest Carl's "Pro-White" or better still, the "Flexi-White". 3D demands as much reflectivity as possible. Be sure that anything you do order is shipped "On a Roll" to begin with.

Thank you. The Pro-White is supposed to hang straight but doesn't the Flexi-White need to be stretched?

What about Carl's SheereWeave? I'd really prefer to place my speakers behind the screen if I can. I can program the EQ's for both behind screen and open/unobstructed audio listening.
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post #8 of 14 Old 03-23-2014, 11:06 AM
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No comments on Carl's SheereWeave?
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-26-2014, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinnEars View Post

No comments on Carl's SheereWeave?

No one?
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-27-2014, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinnEars View Post

No one?


It would be better to use a double layer of White Milliskin Spandex.

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post #11 of 14 Old 03-27-2014, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

It would be better to use a double layer of White Milliskin Spandex.

Shiny or Matte?
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post #12 of 14 Old 03-27-2014, 09:08 AM
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Definitely matte!!
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post #13 of 14 Old 03-27-2014, 10:29 AM
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Will the Milliskin Spandex stay flat if on a roll and not stretched on a frame? Will the two layers stay in contact with each other or will they separate a bit and cause problems?
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post #14 of 14 Old 03-31-2014, 01:04 PM
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Maybe I'm asking incredibly ignorant questions. If so then I'm sorry. Frankly, I just need very basic help to build a "decent usable" HT for myself and the rare occasions with friends if they ever show up here. I don't have the funds to build anything professional and no longer have the mind to accomplish anything very complicated. I'm losing my sight and my hearing plus my mental plasticity is turning to crap. What I need is someone to hold my little hand and guide me through a "basic decent" HT install.
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