So, I felt it was time for an update on how I was coming a long on finding a spray adhesive for attaching Mylar or another material to a surface. I went ahead and picked up some of the Loctite spray adhesive to give it a go.
For my material to attach the Mylar to, I got some thrifty white hardwood from Lowe's and had it cut into multiple strips of 1foot wide pieces. I also roughed up the the top of the board with some coarse sandpaper and the left the bottom half untouched. Unfortunately, even though the loctite sprays in a mist forum and I was able to spray a very light layer on, the spray still dries into small pieces of tacky material that brings up a big problem after Mylar was pressed perfectly flat.the dried glue ends up making the Mylar look like grains of sand were under it. Looked like it had goose bumps, to quote mississippiman.I found that using any adhesive that dried in the form of tack like that could not be used. It kept the Mylar from lying perfectly flat on the TWH. After thinking about the problems I was having and trying to figure out what would be the best rout, I decided that the best type of adhesive would have to be something is more in a liquid state so it could be squeezed out after pressing the Mylar down and it would need to be a slow drying substance that would allow me to have plenty of time to lay the Mylar flat on. Anything tacky would cause the goosebumps.
After brainstorming with thought that maybe the best adhesive would be.......paint...preferably primer due to it better binding properties. It dries slowly and is in a liquid state till it dries. I thought, why not. I bought some spray on valspar, latex based, primer made for plastics. Thought the plastic version spray might provide better adhesive. Also bought a quart container of water based kiltz primer, which I haven't used yet but will morrow.
I took another piece of TWH, and before sanding, first I put a bunch of slices in it with a razor bladed, then took the coarse sandpaper and sanded it to make rough it up but also served to smooth out the top the TWH from digging deep into it with the razor blade.
I sprayed on layer that wasn't to thick or to thin. I then begin to press the Mylar on and smoothing it out. It seemed to fit the build. Once done there were minor little bumps but even some of those disappeared after drying. Putting those slits with the razor blade also served as little trenches for the excess paint and gave some porrous material for the paint to soak into. I need to mess around with it alittle more to get some of the kinks out. I also will allow the paint to dry over the next few weeks to see if the Mylar adheres strong enough to allow me to paint on top of the Mylar.
It seems like using paint might fit the bill but only time will tell as I see how it dries.