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post #1 of 12 Old 04-28-2015, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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DIYer Seeks Screen Paint Advice for Projector Torture Room Build

Afternoon, folks -

A little background first - this place has been called a projector torture test, a nightmare, a hell on earth for projectors - but through and through, I've made it work to my contentment. Here's the basic stats:

- Seating Distance = 7'-6" (unalterable due to room layout)
- Projector Distance from Screen = 11'-6"
- Screen Size = 92" currently

The viewing environment is a two-story loft condo, with both the east and south facing sides have 19' windows. The walls are white, floors are 24x24 white tile, etc. I have full length blinds that shut off all exterior light during the nighttime but a bit of city light pollution (Miami):







(The construction of it was posted here: http://forum.blu-ray.com/showpost.ph...postcount=2407 )

Due to my lighting condition, I built a screen myself to use in the interim - it's a 92" MDF screen, sprayed with flat Munsell N9 gray (equivalent to Sherwin Williams SW6579 Soothing White, RGB values in the 220s - 3 coats), which I trimmed in black velvet and built detachable magnetic matting panels. The screen is about a 0.8G or so, measured using my lightmeter compared to a 1.1 fabric screen I had previously (a disaster, a literal washout due to my light reflecting surfaces).

I've had it for a good 4 months now, and this summer I'd like to go and build my 3rd screen. I plan on going a little smaller, to 80" (due to seating distance, I think 92" is far too big) and would like to know your thoughts on the DIY paint mix that would work in an environment like this. My desires are the following:

- Great Black Levels during Dark Viewing Conditions (great light rejecting qualities)
- Good pop to colors

I could care less about ambient lighting viewing conditions since I have another setup I use for daytime watching. I'm striving for the best I can...at night. Currently I use a 0.3 neutral density filter in front of my Sony VPL-HW40 (changed from an Epson 5030 due to SDE) on Low Lamp combined with the low gain screen to get acceptable blacks, at the sacrifice of top end whites.

I appreciate all advice!! I'm reading over the other 2 big threads here now...

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post #2 of 12 Old 04-28-2015, 01:42 PM
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RS-MaxxMudd LL

It's a relatively simple Mix but one that has both excellent Blacks and with it's 1.2-1.3 gain it does a pretty good job of offsetting reflective light and also some amount of ambient light.

Now if you want the most effective solution of all, the Silver Fire N/C (no colorant) would be the next consideration...with even deeper Blacks (...the Sony needs little in that direction however...) and considerably more ambient light resistance, both reflected and "room presented". It too maintains a gain of 1.2 minimum, so it can combat existing light while also deepening the Sony's already deep Black floor.

But I gotta say it, what with your ultra clean look in Decor, I get slightly ill looking at the Multi Bolt Frankenstein-Like Drop Pole and Mount and Wire Tied Cords. If you want to spend just a little bit you can change over to a ultra clean, smooth, Bolt-free assembly that hides the HDMI and Power inside a 1.5" Tube.

It'll cost about $150.00...but your worth it.

PS...
keep your Screen size...and paint the Screen you now have. You'd just need to re-prime it white then spary on either of the suggested applications. That's what I would do.

.............but that's me.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-28-2015, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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RS-MaxxMudd LL

It's a relatively simple Mix but one that has both excellent Blacks and with it's 1.2-1.3 gain it does a pretty good job of offsetting reflective light and also some amount of ambient light.

Now if you want the most effective solution of all, the Silver Fire N/C (no colorant) would be the next consideration...with even deeper Blacks (...the Sony needs little in that direction however...) and considerably more ambient light resistance, both reflected and "room presented". It too maintains a gain of 1.2 minimum, so it can combat existing light while also deepening the Sony's already deep Black floor.

But I gotta say it, what with your ultra clean look in Decor, I get slightly ill looking at the Multi Bolt Frankenstein-Like Drop Pole and Mount and Wire Tied Cords. If you want to spend just a little bit you can change over to a ultra clean, smooth, Bolt-free assembly that hides the HDMI and Power inside a 1.5" Tube.

It'll cost about $150.00...but your worth it.

PS...
keep your Screen size...and paint the Screen you now have. You'd just need to re-prime it white then spary on either of the suggested applications. That's what I would do.

.............but that's me.

I was hoping you'd respond. I'll look into those paint mixes immediately. The 92" at 7'6" brings out all the ugly in the ugly and it's a little distracting so I want to go back to a midpoint between it and the 65ZT60 plasma I used to have. Noted, re: ceiling mount, - Who sells those? Chief?
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post #4 of 12 Old 04-28-2015, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JJxiv1215 View Post
I was hoping you'd respond. I'll look into those paint mixes immediately. The 92" at 7'6" brings out all the ugly in the ugly and it's a little distracting so I want to go back to a midpoint between it and the 65ZT60 plasma I used to have. Noted, re: ceiling mount, - Who sells those? Chief?
.....hard to imagine the Sony presenting any HD content in "ugly mode".

Now if your watching the wrong programing, then yeah, bigger can be badder.

Yes...Chief is the way to go. You get a Low Profile Dedicated PJ Mount stamped specifically for the VPL-HW40es......

.....the RPA-020



A Peerless ACC570 Round Ceiling Plate



Joined together using two (2) Threaded Male 1.5" PVC Pipe Adapters



.........and a "Custom Cut to exactly needed length" of Schedule 40 PVC Pipe




I use this system to hang 99% of all my projectors....including Commercial PJ weighing upwards of 50 lbs and drops of 10'

Get the Chief and Peerless parts from Projector People "888-248-0675 Kirk Ritari ext: 2002" and tell him MMan sent'cha. He's anxious to help AVS'ers get the RPA Dedicated for a special price...ditto the Peerless ACC570. Just be certain to confirm the Model Chief RPA with him and you'll cruise into a really great looking Mounting solution.

(...BTW, just lightly sand the PVC Pipe and Paint it whatever color matches your Room's decor....)

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #5 of 12 Old Yesterday, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
.....hard to imagine the Sony presenting any HD content in "ugly mode".

Now if your watching the wrong programing, then yeah, bigger can be badder.

Yes...Chief is the way to go. You get a Low Profile Dedicated PJ Mount stamped specifically for the VPL-HW40es......

.....the RPA-020



A Peerless ACC570 Round Ceiling Plate



Joined together using two (2) Threaded Male 1.5" PVC Pipe Adapters



.........and a "Custom Cut to exactly needed length" of Schedule 40 PVC Pipe




I use this system to hang 99% of all my projectors....including Commercial PJ weighing upwards of 50 lbs and drops of 10'

Get the Chief and Peerless parts from Projector People "888-248-0675 Kirk Ritari ext: 2002" and tell him MMan sent'cha. He's anxious to help AVS'ers get the RPA Dedicated for a special price...ditto the Peerless ACC570. Just be certain to confirm the Model Chief RPA with him and you'll cruise into a really great looking Mounting solution.

(...BTW, just lightly sand the PVC Pipe and Paint it whatever color matches your Room's decor....)
MM,

Since the cabling will be going through the PVC pipe, what is the reason you go with this Peerless mount plate instead of something else that doesn't have a cable exit hole?
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post #6 of 12 Old Yesterday, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by lindino08 View Post
MM,

Since the cabling will be going through the PVC pipe, what is the reason you go with this Peerless mount plate instead of something else that doesn't have a cable exit hole?
Well so far I have not found any lower profile Ceiling Plate that is both as sturdy and inexpensive as the ACC570.\

Also, in the majority of my installations, I have that plate above the ceiling attached to Ceiling Joists or a Wood Block support, and the Pipe simply passes down through a hole in the Drywall / Wood / Ceiling Tile that is just big enough for the Pipe itself.

Here is an example:



Now I was using a little Optoma Short Throw GT 1080, but as you can see, the ability to pass only the Pipe down through the ceiling allowed me to put that Pipe Hole directly against the existing Ceiling Beam. (...the Chief mount is small, but it still was almost as big as the PJ ! ) The great adjust-ability of the RPA-O I used in this case allowed me to mover the PJ itself back & forth, as well as side to side, so I could fine tune the picture's Formatting to the screen size & location. (...something you don't need with H&V Lens Shift...and a RPA-Dedicated...)

I'm heading over there is about 20 minutes and upon returning I'll post an image of the Ceiling Plate up in the Attic.
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Last edited by MississippiMan; Yesterday at 08:35 AM.
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post #7 of 12 Old Yesterday, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Well so far I have not found any lower profile Ceiling Plate that is both as sturdy and inexpensive as the ACC570.\

Also, in the majority of my installations, I have that plate above the ceiling attached to Ceiling Joists or a Wood Block support, and the Pipe simply passes down through a hole in the Drywall / Wood / Ceiling Tile that is just big enough for the Pipe itself.

Now I was using a little Optoma Short Throw GT 1080, but as you can see, the ability to pass only the Pipe down through the ceiling allowed me to put that Pipe Hole directly against the existing Ceiling Beam. (...the Chief mount is small, but it still was almost as big as the PJ ! ) The great adjust-ability of the RPA-O I used in this case allowed me to mover the PJ itself back & forth, as well as side to side, so I could fine tune the picture's Formatting to the screen size & location. (...something you don't need with H&V Lens Shift...and a RPA-Dedicated...)

I'm heading over there is about 20 minutes and upon returning I'll post an image of the Ceiling Plate up in the Attic.
What do you think of this, have you used it? It use to be sold by peerless and was discontinued. $15 on Amazon with a 5 star rating.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg
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post #8 of 12 Old Yesterday, 02:08 PM
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Yeah...I have used the one below before. I don't really care for it because of it's reduced Foot print, and the fact it must be situated directly on top of and in line with a Ceiling Joist, and that winds up blocking the Hole.



Now if you Sandwiched & Glued 2- 16" x 12" x 3/4" pieces of Plywood, and drilled a Bore Hole 2" wide at the center through them, and Screwed that Plate down onto another 2 strips (2" x 12" x 3/4") ofthe Plywood, and then Glued / Screwed that assembly onto the Attic Side of the Drywall, you'd have a very stable mount similar to what I'm showing below, only attached directly onto the hidden side of the Drywall. In the case as described, you would have a full 2-1/4" depth from the underside of the Plate to the drywall, and that is just enough for you to have a short Male Threaded Adapter fit between the Plate and the Ceiling.

In my shown example below, I used the Plywood Flooring in the Attic, so I had ba full 10" between the underside of the Plywood and the Drywall.




Obviously the male adapter is underneath the Peerless Plate.

Spend $5.00 more for the bigger Plate if you can manage to do a hidden installation.
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Last edited by MississippiMan; Yesterday at 02:11 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old Yesterday, 04:09 PM
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In my shown example below, I used the Plywood Flooring in the Attic, so I had ba full 10" between the underside of the Plywood and the Drywall.




Obviously the male adapter is underneath the Peerless Plate.

Spend $5.00 more for the bigger Plate if you can manage to do a hidden installation.
Unfortunately I am unable to do a hidden install with the plate. Won't this peerless one also cause issues if I mount to one ceiling joist with the pipe hole being right in the middle of the two mounting holes? Will l have enough room to fit power and HDMI into there.
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I can show you exactly what to do so you can mount the Plate securely without aligning it directly over a Joist.

The ACC570 can allow for enough of a hole to be cut to allow for two Plywood braces to be i8nserted to each side, so the hole itself is centered within a open space.
(...or one mounting hole can have a Long Screw up into a Joist for a bit of extra security if your a worrier....)

I have even taken a 110ac single gang box off the ceiling and placed it up inside the ceiling and still covered the 4" x 4" hole with the ACC570.. Then I paint the Plate the same color as the ceiling and "Poof"...it's almost invisible.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #11 of 12 Old Yesterday, 06:05 PM
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I can show you exactly what to do so you can mount the Plate securely without aligning it directly over a Joist.

The ACC570 can allow for enough of a hole to be cut to allow for two Plywood braces to be i8nserted to each side, so the hole itself is centered within a open space.
(...or one mounting hole can have a Long Screw up into a Joist for a bit of extra security if your a worrier....)

I have even taken a 110ac single gang box off the ceiling and placed it up inside the ceiling and still covered the 4" x 4" hole with the ACC570.. Then I paint the Plate the same color as the ceiling and "Poof"...it's almost invisible.
Yes, if you can show me that would be awesome. As of now it looks like that is what I will have to do. I should start a separate thread for this since I kinda hijacked this one :P. Sorry JJ.

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Yes, if you can show me that would be awesome. As of now it looks like that is what I will have to do. I should start a separate thread for this since I kinda hijacked this one :P. Sorry JJ.
Always appreciated by the OP

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