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post #1 of 53 Old 06-21-2015, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Silver fire noob help.

Hello all- after years of perusing and studying I'm finally ready to start by diy screen build. I have ordered sintra 6mm thickness it is scheduled to be delivered next week. I'll be doing a zero edge led lit screen. Here's my confusion. When I go to the silver fire pages there is so much info and ingredients listed I get confused. This screen is going in a light controlled basement. I'll be using an Epson 3020 for the time being until 4k projectors are below 5 grand. Can someone help a noob out with basic directions on how to properly formulate silver fire?

Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 53 Old 06-21-2015, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icheat View Post
Hello all- after years of perusing and studying I'm finally ready to start by diy screen build. I have ordered sintra 6mm thickness it is scheduled to be delivered next week. I'll be doing a zero edge led lit screen. Here's my confusion. When I go to the silver fire pages there is so much info and ingredients listed I get confused. This screen is going in a light controlled basement. I'll be using an Epson 3020 for the time being until 4k projectors are below 5 grand. Can someone help a noob out with basic directions on how to properly formulate silver fire?

Thanks in advance
Based on their being Light control, and if care is taken to minimize / remove Wall / Ceiling reflections, Silver Fire v2.5 N/C would be best. Otherwise, a 2.0 mix is a great all around version to use.

Just be sure to use the Rust-Oleum products (Silver-Pearl-Poly) for the best results.

Of you need any further pointers as to the building of the Zero Edge screen...who ya gonna call?

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #3 of 53 Old 06-21-2015, 10:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I definitely need more help. I need to knock this out of the park on the first shot and I'd like to ensure I buy all the right materials the first time. Is there a cheat sheet somewhere of "current" products available to make the best display? I say current because there are 100's of pages on the official silverfire page and I don't know where to start.
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post #4 of 53 Old 06-21-2015, 10:40 PM - Thread Starter
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100% of my inspiration is coming from the screen you did a few years back... LED Edge Lit Zero Edge Comeuppance - 110" diagonal Silver Fire 3.0

I have looked at the links you provided for the LED rope lighting but they all appear dead. Is there newer products that you'd recommend?
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post #5 of 53 Old 06-22-2015, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icheat View Post
100% of my inspiration is coming from the screen you did a few years back... LED Edge Lit Zero Edge Comeuppance - 110" diagonal Silver Fire 3.0

I have looked at the links you provided for the LED rope lighting but they all appear dead. Is there newer products that you'd recommend?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KIT-5-10M-35...item27eeea5fc3

Choose the 600 LED 10 Meter kit w/44 Key Controller.

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post #6 of 53 Old 06-22-2015, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KIT-5-10M-35...item27eeea5fc3

Choose the 600 LED 10 Meter kit w/44 Key Controller.
Ok! LEDs purchased... What's the next steps I should take?
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post #7 of 53 Old 06-24-2015, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KIT-5-10M-35...item27eeea5fc3

Choose the 600 LED 10 Meter kit w/44 Key Controller.
Ok. The LEDs have shipped. The Sintra is on its way.
I need to formulate the silver fire and that's freaking me out.

Also is this sprayer ok?
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Wagner-Control-Spray-Double-Duty-High-Volume-Low-Pressure-HVLP-Handheld-Paint-Sprayer/4190677
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post #8 of 53 Old 06-24-2015, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by icheat View Post
Ok. The LEDs have shipped. The Sintra is on its way.
I need to formulate the silver fire and that's freaking me out.
Why? It's really quite simple:

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 24 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 16oz.
Behr 1750 UPW Flat 16 oz.
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 16 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

No! That Gun has way too much output.

If you have to go cheapest: http://www.lowes.com/pd_561012-97-05...=50115729&pl=1

Something costing just a little more? (...and better...) http://www.amazon.com/1000ml-Electri...iglink20246-20

Best choice: http://www.lowes.com/pd_570350-97-HV2901P_1z0xzp1__
.....with the 1.0 mm tip ordered direct from Earlex: (...ask for Direct Sales...(888- 783 - 2612)

•Part # HVACV1 1.0mm (.04in) tip size
Be certain to mention your needing the entire 1.0 mm Conversion Kit for a 2901 Spray Station
The Gun just above is the one I use....all the time.
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post #9 of 53 Old 06-24-2015, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Why? It's really quite simple:

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 24 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 16oz.
Behr 1750 UPW Flat 16 oz.
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 16 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

No! That Gun has way too much output.

If you have to go cheapest: http://www.lowes.com/pd_561012-97-05...=50115729&pl=1

Something costing just a little more? (...and better...) http://www.amazon.com/1000ml-Electri...iglink20246-20

Best choice: http://www.lowes.com/pd_570350-97-HV2901P_1z0xzp1__
.....with the 1.0 mm tip ordered direct from Earlex: (...ask for Direct Sales...(888- 783 - 2612)

•Part # HVACV1 1.0mm (.04in) tip size
Be certain to mention your needing the entire 1.0 mm Conversion Kit for a 2901 Spray Station
The Gun just above is the one I use....all the time.
Ok, I'll probably get the sprayer that you have but just for grins.... If I get the cheapest is it complete or do I need an additional kit for that too. And do I need a better sprayer if I don't plan on using said sprayer after this job⁉️

For the paint compounds are these readily available at lowes/depot?
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post #10 of 53 Old 06-25-2015, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icheat View Post
Ok, I'll probably get the sprayer that you have but just for grins.... If I get the cheapest is it complete or do I need an additional kit for that too. And do I need a better sprayer if I don't plan on using said sprayer after this job⁉️

For the paint compounds are these readily available at lowes/depot?
The Cheapest Gun (Wagner) comes "as is" and there are no available modifications.

The 2nd cheapest comes with a 1.0 mm needle, ideal for painting these screens. But it has somewhat less power and a short hose the requires you sling the Turbine on your shoulder.

The most expensive (Earlex 2901) comes with a 2.2 mm Needle that can accept non thinned latex, so it can be used to paint a great many projects. The Accessory 1.0 mm Needle kit allows it to also provide a "Automobile-like" finish on a smooth substrate. It absolutely will provide for the most varied future use.

The Rust-Oleum paints and Poly are either available "On-Store" or can be ordered "On-Line". Lowes is the place for the Silver & Pearl.
Lowes and Home Depot both carry the Clear Matte Poly

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post #11 of 53 Old 06-25-2015, 06:09 PM
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I'm going to be attempting essentially the same build within the next week or so. My sheet of sintra is due in in the next few days. I'm planning on going with a 3.0 coloration for my living room (light controlled as much as I can, but still gets some ambient light during the day).

I'm also a bit confused on the formulation. This is how I understand it now:

50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
14ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
10ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

Mix these amounts together, and then add 3 ounces of it (for a 3.0 color) to a mixture of:

16oz Rustoleum poly
22oz white pearl
22oz sterling silver
10oz UPW
2oz gold
??oz water

Is this correct? These numbers I'm getting from the first post of the silver fire thread, but they look quite a bit different than what you posted above.

Also, I have a good friend who paints cars for a living and will be doing the spraying for me. He uses a SATAjet 4000 HVLP with a 1.3mm needle. Will this be alright to spray with?
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post #12 of 53 Old 06-25-2015, 10:05 PM
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I suggest you use the Reflective Base formula here:

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 24 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 16oz.
Behr 1750 UPW Flat 16 oz.
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 16 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

The Coorant Base should look extremely dark Brown mixed, but rinse "Dark Grey" off your utinsels. Mix it into the Reflective Base throughly, but DO NOT whip it so that you introduce Air Bubbles.

The 1.3 mm Gun will work....but relate the desired Duster Technique w/overlapping horizontal rows, and the gradual build up of multiple coats. Each coat being completely dry before receiving the next coat. Once he sees the thinness of the paint he should understand the necessity of such technique.

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post #13 of 53 Old 06-26-2015, 12:12 AM
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The colorant is:

50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
14ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
10ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue
AND
100ml - water (used to rinse the measuring tool you use with the liquitex basics, and then added into the colorant mix..basically doubling the amount while thinning it)

This watered-down colorant mix is what you'll use 3oz of for a SF3.0 screen. Using 3oz of colorant WITHOUT the added 100ml of water would be more like a SF6.0 which would be noticeably darker.

It's an easy step to miss. Just wanted to make sure you noticed it.

________________________________________________
And a question for MississippiMan; with the recent change to the reflective base formula, is an additional 1oz of pearl and 1oz of silver still recommended for every 1oz of colorant used OR is the reflective base judged bright enough to hold up fine as-is even when colorant is added?

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.

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post #14 of 53 Old 06-26-2015, 02:42 AM
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just my 2 cents worth , if you have a light controlled room then neutral white is the best bet
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post #15 of 53 Old 06-26-2015, 07:30 AM
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just my 2 cents worth , if you have a light controlled room then neutral white is the best bet
We've heard from you before in a similar manner, and again your not taking in the full picture, only basing your "2 cents' on your own limited experience.

Unless specifically stated otherwise, "Light Control" alone does not factor in a PJ's lessor levels of Contrast, poorer Black levels...or the effects of Room reflections. And you only need to have read the entire Thread to know that as of yet, the condition / colors of the room have not even come up for discussion.

The terminology "Light Control" used by itself is far too limited in scope or description, and the omission of any of the aforementioned from the equation renders it less than effective in and of itself.

Also, a well known attribute of Silver Fire is the intensity and vibrancy of colors, combined with the deeper black levels. That can not happen using a Neutral White, which at best can only provide an approximate reproduction of the projected image....with that being wholly dependent upon size combined with all of the aforementioned factors.

If people want a very large projected image to resemble a Direct View display in Brightness and Contrast / Black levels (...and virtually everyone does...) then depending upon a neutral white surface to provide such can be a exercise in futility. Now absolutely...that is changing, as PJ Mfg embrace the mantra of higher Lumen / Higher Contrast / Higher Resolution.

But we are still very far away from a 110" diagonal Neutral white screen being able to consistently get that job accomplished, let alone a 120" - 130"- 140"er managing it.

Just as we will remain far away from getting even an acceptable "minority" of PJ users to embrace total "Light Control" as well as ideally suited Room paint schemes.

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post #16 of 53 Old 06-26-2015, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
The colorant is:

50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
14ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
10ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue
AND
100ml - water (used to rinse the measuring tool you use with the liquitex basics, and then added into the colorant mix..basically doubling the amount while thinning it)

This watered-down colorant mix is what you'll use 3oz of for a SF3.0 screen. Using 3oz of colorant WITHOUT the added 100ml of water would be more like a SF6.0 which would be noticeably darker.

It's an easy step to miss. Just wanted to make sure you noticed it.

________________________________________________
And a question for MississippiMan; with the recent change to the reflective base formula, is an additional 1oz of pearl and 1oz of silver still recommended for every 1oz of colorant used OR is the reflective base judged bright enough to hold up fine as-is even when colorant is added?
No - I definitely did not think the water was added the colorant mix. Thanks for pointing that out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
I suggest you use the Reflective Base formula here:

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 24 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 16oz.
Behr 1750 UPW Flat 16 oz.
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 16 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

The Coorant Base should look extremely dark Brown mixed, but rinse "Dark Grey" off your utinsels. Mix it into the Reflective Base throughly, but DO NOT whip it so that you introduce Air Bubbles.

The 1.3 mm Gun will work....but relate the desired Duster Technique w/overlapping horizontal rows, and the gradual build up of multiple coats. Each coat being completely dry before receiving the next coat. Once he sees the thinness of the paint he should understand the necessity of such technique.
Thanks for your input MississippiMan.

I'm planning on doing this "zero edge" / zero frame. I was thinking of using a strong adhesive to attach two 2x4s nearly the width of the screen, horizontally along the back - one near the top and one near the bottom - and hanging it with French cleats. Any issues with doing this, or any other considerations? I'm also considering using aluminum to be sure it is perfectly straight and never warp.

My living room does see a fair amount of light during the day, mostly from light bleeding thru the edges of the blinds on the back door and a window in the kitchen. The PJ does get used during the day by the wife and kids, but most critical viewing will be at night. My biggest problem at night is my white ceiling, which I hope to remedy in the near future. Would you agree that a 3.0 color would be a good middle ground for both day and night viewing conditions? I want to improve my picture during the day as much as I can, but I certainly don't want to degrade the experience at night. My projector is an Epson 8500UB. After reading some more of your posts, I'm wondering if I might be fine with the N/C version.

Last edited by ovrd0ze; 06-26-2015 at 11:18 AM.
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post #17 of 53 Old 06-26-2015, 01:26 PM
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ovrd0ze,
Not much chance of degrading your Dark Room experience. Funny though how so many seem to think a screen that can really improve viewing in ambient light would be wanting in a darkened room. Must be because some Mfg Screens are in fact that way. But Silver Fire is not...in fact the opposite. Excellent in Ambient....incredibly brilliant in the Dark.

N/C works great in moderate ambient light....more that adaquate for many circumstances. Adding just 2 oz. Colorant to N/C just makes it "Mo Bedder"

Iffin' I was you I'd incorporate the 2 x 4s into also being part of the French Cleats. In fact, when I do such a framed Zero Edge Sintra, if it does not include Led Lighting...I use 1x 6 ripped down the middle across the Top, and 1x4s for the rest of the Frame (...always Kiln-Dried Poplar...) Unless that extra 1.5"+ depth out from the Wall is needed for bias lighting, it makes for a much nicer installation to have the Zero Edge Screen stand off the wall only 3/4".

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post #18 of 53 Old 06-26-2015, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
ovrd0ze,
Not much chance of degrading your Dark Room experience. Funny though how so many seem to think a screen that can really improve viewing in ambient light would be wanting in a darkened room. Must be because some Mfg Screens are in fact that way. But Silver Fire is not...in fact the opposite. Excellent in Ambient....incredibly brilliant in the Dark.

N/C works great in moderate ambient light....more that adaquate for many circumstances. Adding just 2 oz. Colorant to N/C just makes it "Mo Bedder"

Iffin' I was you I'd incorporate the 2 x 4s into also being part of the French Cleats. In fact, when I do such a framed Zero Edge Sintra, if it does not include Led Lighting...I use 1x 6 ripped down the middle across the Top, and 1x4s for the rest of the Frame (...always Kiln-Dried Poplar...) Unless that extra 1.5"+ depth out from the Wall is needed for bias lighting, it makes for a much nicer installation to have the Zero Edge Screen stand off the wall only 3/4".
On my current screen (106" DIY BOC) I'm using a metal French cleat setup I found at Lowe's. It is very slim and works well. I'm planning to re-use them for this. I have been giving some thought to LED bias lighting so I'd like to have enough room to be open to that.

So you would suggest still building a full rectangular frame on the back? I was thinking the Sintra was pretty stiff on it's own - but as I have yet to handle the stuff at all, you are obviously much more familiar with it. How far inside the edges would you suggest having the frame? Would it be wise to run a third horizontal piece directly in the center?
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post #19 of 53 Old 06-26-2015, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovrd0ze View Post
On my current screen (106" DIY BOC) I'm using a metal French cleat setup I found at Lowe's. It is very slim and works well. I'm planning to re-use them for this. I have been giving some thought to LED bias lighting so I'd like to have enough room to be open to that.
Well then, a "Flattened" 2 x 4 Rectangle clued to the Wall...the Top piece having a outward angled 45 degree rip at the top edge would be best.
I use the Hangman French Cleats for almost all standard Wood Frames that mount "directly" onto the Wall. But they must have both parts mounted securely...on to the Wood Frame of the Screen (...like your BOC screen...) and the other to the Wall. I know you already have them...but that does not mean you should use them in this particular instance. Your gonna buy Wood...so you not over spending. Just save 'em back

Quote:
So you would suggest still building a full rectangular frame on the back? I was thinking the Sintra was pretty stiff on it's own - but as I have yet to handle the stuff at all, you are obviously much more familiar with it. How far inside the edges would you suggest having the frame? Would it be wise to run a third horizontal piece directly in the center?
To have the screen be easily removable AND feature Bias Lighting is a bit of a logistical challenge...but do-able.

The Sintra...in 6 mm...is rigid....but not so much that you can depend on it to hang completely straight of it's own accord. And you certainly cannot mount a Hangman directly onto the Sintra.

In your case, building a rectangle frame on the back of the Sintra, leaving a 1.5" deep inset between the 2 x 4 and the outside edges of the Sintra would be a good plan. Two horizontal 2 x 4s ripped at 45 degrees and placed at top and bottom locations on the wall will effectively lock the Screen onto the wall...and you absolutely do want the Screen to sit "flush" against the wall. (...I'll supply you with a Drawing of the needed Frame....) You will also need at least one central vertical support for the Sintra to prevent inward or outward Bowing. (...there are thicker sheets that would never Bow...but they cost "a lot" more.

You'll run any LED lighting on the outside edge of the wood frame on the Sintra. The 1.5" space between the Sintra and the Wall can have your Power outlet and hold the Transformer assembly. The good thing about this plan...you can add the lighting easily at a later time...but why wait...it's not really expensive at all.

Here is your Screen frame layout:

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Last edited by MississippiMan; 06-26-2015 at 04:31 PM.
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post #20 of 53 Old 06-29-2015, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Based on their being Light control, and if care is taken to minimize / remove Wall / Ceiling reflections, Silver Fire v2.5 N/C would be best. Otherwise, a 2.0 mix is a great all around version to use.

Just be sure to use the Rust-Oleum products (Silver-Pearl-Poly) for the best results.

Of you need any further pointers as to the building of the Zero Edge screen...who ya gonna call?
When I say light controlled. It's in a basement. But the walls and ceiling are white. The projector hangs on a soffit and some light reflects off the ceiling. To my untrained eye this is neither distracting and doesn't provide any ill effect to my current set up.
With that being said. Do I do a n/c or 2.0 mix?
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post #21 of 53 Old 06-29-2015, 11:02 AM
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Thanks for all the insight, MM. Do you join the 2x4s of the frame to each other in any fashion, or is simply butting them up and gluing to the Sintra sufficient?
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post #22 of 53 Old 06-29-2015, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icheat View Post
When I say light controlled. It's in a basement. But the walls and ceiling are white. The projector hangs on a soffit and some light reflects off the ceiling. To my untrained eye this is neither distracting and doesn't provide any ill effect to my current set up.
With that being said. Do I do a n/c or 2.0 mix?
N/C

Quote:
Originally Posted by ovrd0ze View Post
Thanks for all the insight, MM. Do you join the 2x4s of the frame to each other in any fashion, or is simply butting them up and gluing to the Sintra sufficient?
They should be joined, preferably using a Kreg Jig Tool and Pocket Screws.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-K4-P...-K4H/202074960
Use the Kreg Jig properly and in no way will you need any additional support to hold the Frame together.


Otherwise, many people use Simpson Strong Tie "L's" and "T's" along with the Glue.

Glue: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-9...9157/203009262

Metal Brackets:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-S...7?N=5yc1vZaqta

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-S...9?N=5yc1vZaqta

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-S...6?N=5yc1vZaqta

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-S...1?N=5yc1vZaqta

Be certain to only use 3/4 long " Flat Head" screws...Coarse Threaded preferably. Pre-Dril a starter hole as well.

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post #23 of 53 Old 06-30-2015, 10:24 AM
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Sorry if I've overlooked this somewhere, but do I need to scuff the Sintra prior to spraying?
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post #24 of 53 Old 06-30-2015, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ovrd0ze View Post
Sorry if I've overlooked this somewhere, but do I need to scuff the Sintra prior to spraying?
No.....you just make sure the surface is clean, dry, and has no oily stains from finger / palm prints.

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post #25 of 53 Old 07-07-2015, 06:17 AM - Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=MississippiMan;35289298]Why? It's really quite simple:

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 24 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 16oz.
Behr 1750 UPW Flat 16 oz.
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 16 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

Ok I got all the paint. But now how do I measure the correct amounts? I've never really mixed paint colors together. Should I use a paint bucket to mix it all in? And in supposed to use a filter right? But not a crappy cone filter?
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post #26 of 53 Old 07-07-2015, 06:30 AM
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[quote=icheat;35582002]
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Why? It's really quite simple:

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 24 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 16oz.
Behr 1750 UPW Flat 16 oz.
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 16 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

Ok I got all the paint. But now how do I measure the correct amounts? I've never really mixed paint colors together. Should I use a paint bucket to mix it all in? And in supposed to use a filter right? But not a crappy cone filter?
You can use a large Measuring Cup, Glass or Plastic. The paints are all water based so they'll rinse out, so Momma won't yell.

You are supposed to get a 1 Gallon Metal Paint can/Lid and a Flexible Pour Lid. The Link below shows a 1 quart size...but get the 1 Gallon size.
\http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-1-qt...6604/100112530

Paint Strainers
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Trimaco-1...36WF/202061359

Paint Pour Lid
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line...3844/202903561

If you get a Plastic Bucket (1.5 gal) and mix the paints into that first, you can them put one of the Strain nets on the 1 gallon can you'll be pouring from and strain directly into that.

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post #27 of 53 Old 07-08-2015, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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[quote=MississippiMan;35582250]
Quote:
Originally Posted by icheat View Post

You can use a large Measuring Cup, Glass or Plastic. The paints are all water based so they'll rinse out, so Momma won't yell.

You are supposed to get a 1 Gallon Metal Paint can/Lid and a Flexible Pour Lid. The Link below shows a 1 quart size...but get the 1 Gallon size.
\http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-1-qt...6604/100112530

Paint Strainers
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Trimaco-1...36WF/202061359

Paint Pour Lid
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line...3844/202903561

If you get a Plastic Bucket (1.5 gal) and mix the paints into that first, you can them put one of the Strain nets on the 1 gallon can you'll be pouring from and strain directly into that.
Ok- I got everything on the list except the 2X4's and the brackets and screws- ill be getting all that tomorrow. Sintra will be here on Friday- the goal is to get the frame built and screen attached on Sunday, (i work a double on Saturday). once the screen is attached to the frame im going to temporarily mount it in the garage so i can paint'er. NEED TO KNOW: roughly how long should it take to paint, i know i need multiple coats and it takes about 20 minutes to dry.... but how many coats should be sufficent? also once im done painting do i need to sand this thing or should it be "ready to watch"?? again thanks to the whole group for any and all help.
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post #28 of 53 Old 07-08-2015, 06:35 PM
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Well......................


Most "Duster Coated" screens require 8 coats, but that always dependent upon the visual approximation made by the DIY'er as to if the surface looks completely and uniformly covered.

Do the Math. 8 x 20 = 160 minutes. Add at least 20% extra time for contingencies, and you have 200 minutes That's just over 3 hours

Dry times are contingent to the environment as well as any added assistance (heat-Fan) Whatever.....you DO NOT spray the next coat until the existing surface no longer feels "cool". If that means giving it 30 minutes per coat to be safe...do so.

I often give the 5th or 6th coat a very light sweep sanding, wipe the surface clean, and then continue.

You do NOT sand after the final coat.

BTW...if your painting the screen elsewhere, be sure to create at least a 6" wide "Run-Off" around all edges so that the Gun's spray does not "drop off" the edges. That will cause Vortexing....a uneven lay down of paint at the edges that results in the edges getting less paint than the interior. Cardboard...Heavy Plastic...whatever you need to create a level run off.

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post #29 of 53 Old 07-11-2015, 09:39 PM
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Local Lowe's does not carry poplar in 2x4. I got kiln-dried white fir instead. Any issues with this?
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post #30 of 53 Old 07-12-2015, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
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Local Lowe's does not carry poplar in 2x4. I got kiln-dried white fir instead. Any issues with this?
No...Fir is a better wood to use than Pine...and I don't recall ever suggesting the use of Poplar 2x4s anyway....primarily because I don't think there is such thing available anyway. If there was...it would be a high dollar option in 2x4 thickness...almost the same as would be Oak. Poplar is the wood of choice when Frames are made from 1x lumber.

Kiln Dried Fir is extremely resistant to warp-age, and while it is not classified as being a Hardwood like Poplar, it awfully close. If you hand picked good, straight, un-bowed and non-twisted pieces....they should stay that way.

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