126" Screen Build (WIP: Input Needed) - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-29-2015, 11:26 PM - Thread Starter
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126" Screen Build (WIP: Input Needed)

Okay so i'm going to start off by saying hello, i'm relatively new to this forum and greatly appreciate all the help you guys have given me as a lurker.

I started this project a few days ago by building a simple frame against my furthest basement wall to give a theatre-esque feel to my projection wall. Ive used simple baseboard moulding as a border for the wall, encasing the screen. I went with the Behr "Silver Screen" paint that many people have praised as a great pigment for bringing the deeper colors out.

Unfortunately, I am unhappy about the lack of color this paint gives off. The blacks look absolutely stunning whereas the deeper reds and yellows lack appearance and look awfully dull. So what i'm looking for now is an alternative to this paint that brings vibrant colors and reflects a decent amount of darks. Should I use the silver screen as a base coat for a white top layer? Or should I re-prime and repaint the wall?

Thoughts? Pictures are below.

The projector in question is a Sony Cineza 720P VPL-HS60
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-29-2015, 11:52 PM
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I think you should read this:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm

I read it around 2 weeks ago. Really interesting.

Projector: Epson EH-TW3200, Screen: Visivo Electric Screen PRO 117"
AVR: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (SC-LX73)
L/R Speakers: Yamaha NS-690III, Center: Klipsch RC-52 ii,
L/R Surrounds: Yamaha NS-333, Front Heights: Klipsch RS-25
Subs: Klipsch RW-12D, Crystal Acoustics THX-12 SUB
Source: Laptop - MPC-HC & ffdshow, Console: XBOX 360
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post #3 of 9 Old 06-29-2015, 11:57 PM
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Silverscreen is a cold grey rather than neutral which is why reds and yellows look weak. SnowField or Universal Grey are similar shades of grey that will have better reds and yellows by being neutral shades of grey.

If you want you could also add some metallic to a slightly darker grey to simultaneously keep darks deep while helping keep brights even brighter..though plain flat/matte Snowfield or UniversalGrey will be both easier to nail perfectly AND totally free of grain or visual-noise which adding metallic can risk.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-30-2015, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikolouzosr View Post
I think you should read this:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm

I read it around 2 weeks ago. Really interesting.
That supposed "perfect screen" has been shown to be considerably less than "perfect' due to excessive hot spotting.

The suggestion to use a Satin was a poor one, and obviously based on little experience with DIY screen surfaces and how they interact with the majority of PJ choices .

Emphasis was placed on trying to achieve a "Out of the Can" solution that had a gain approaching a Stewart ST 130. But the satin Sheen condemned the effort for all but the lowest lumen output PJs. In the case of jayyredd it would do squat as far as improving blacks whilethe center of the image would be noticeably brighter than the edges.

jayyredd
,

In truth, SilverScreen is a very good choice...for PJs with an appreciable amount of Lumen output. And it has always been stated as such. Your old Sony does not fit that billing.

And if your looking for the best of both worlds, your not going to find it using any Grey that has under 1.0 gain. Period.

If your rolling paint on, that complicates things as you'll have to use a coating that works all on it's own...and does not depend upon what an underlying coat adds.

Adding Polyurethane (25%) and Rust-Oleum White Pearl (30%) to 50% of a N8.5 Neutral Grey is probably your best best.

You can try a 30% Poly in a 70% UPW as a overcoat on the SS. In the lest you will have "primed" the surface for a 2nd try. If instead you manage to get a coating up without Roller marks, and that allows some of the SS to interact through the top surface....maybe.

As stated before though, your lumen poor. So punching light through rolled on layers of paint...even Poly-diluted paint, is problematical at best.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #5 of 9 Old 06-30-2015, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Adding Polyurethane (25%) and Rust-Oleum White Pearl (30%) to 50% of a N8.5 Neutral Grey is probably your best best.
Where would I go about getting this mixture of paint? I've done some reading on avs, it seems like using the "Icon Grey" 80% metallic would be one of my options aswell?

It seems light enough for my projector, and produces a decent amount of gain. Keep in mind, there is little to no light entering this room and i'm looking for the best picture for a room with little to no light coming in. I'm a little uneducated in the field of mixing paints and such, sorry for all the noob questions , how about you guys tell me exactly which paint to use and i'll throw it up on the wall and give it a whirl? Willing to try anything right now, the silver screen isnt necessarily terrible but something a little brighter and cleaner would be great
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-30-2015, 12:46 PM
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The effect / advantage of all that Metallic is being destroyed....virtually rendered useless by the Grey Paint. Diluting the mix with water and Polyurethane gives the Mica more of a translucency so that it has a chance to absorb and reflect more light...though by doing such you also must reduce the amount of RL Silver.

Therein lies the gulf between the Grey mixes that use no metallic, the Greys that use "Clear" metallic, and the more complicated mixes that use Silver / Pearl / Poly, and get their Grey either from the Grey shading of the Silver Metallic alone, or by adding a RGBY Colotant.

I suggested a "newish" mix I know would have the specific properties you need, but if that's too scary a proposition to cozy up to, then try one of the "lighter" Black Screen formulas that ftoast can steer you toward.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-30-2015, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll probably go with poly/rustoleum/n8.5 blend, seems to be a suiting fit. Doesn't look too dark for my application, definitely will be brighter. I'll post results by Friday, I should have the wall ready by then.
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-30-2015, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayyredd View Post
I'll probably go with poly/rustoleum/n8.5 blend, seems to be a suiting fit. Doesn't look too dark for my application, definitely will be brighter. I'll post results by Friday, I should have the wall ready by then.
SnowField is N8.8 and UniversalGrey is N8.3, but mixing some Rustoleum SterlingSilver into plain white will also result in a similar light grey..so I'm not sure starting with grey would make a big difference.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-30-2015, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
SnowField is N8.8 and UniversalGrey is N8.3, but mixing some Rustoleum SterlingSilver into plain white will also result in a similar light grey..so I'm not sure starting with grey would make a big difference.
Oh it will...it'll make it up to 50% darker depending on the ratio.

Unless the OP is referring to the Rust-Oleum White Pearl...which in retrospect seems more logical.

Just not clearly stated.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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