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light fusion possible with curved screen???

329 views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  narhic_fd 
#1 ·
I saw few movies, over the past months, on curved screen and loved the look. Though the movie's weren't in 3D the curved screen gave it sort of a 3Dish look to it and i really liked that. I was wondering if it would be possible to due a light fusion screen on a curved screen. No, not because it would be hard to find a curved mirror(I would actually use plexiglass with Mylar adhered to the back and bend the plexi for a curved screen or something like that) but I would think since light isn't making equal contact on the screen like it would on a flat screen, that would rule it out.
Today, I was pondering what issues one would have to deal with in a curved screen. For instance, In Light Fusion one uses the Hot spot to help sand your screen down to the even thickness needed but if the Hot Spot is a little more profound In the area that the screen is bent toward the projector, how would that effect getting the even thickness throughout the screen.Now, I imagine that it wouldn't probably be that much of a diff but none the less it has me wondering. So....what do you think???
 
#2 ·
Remembering that a projector hits the center of the image more straight-on and the sides at more of an angle..what does the curve do?
The curve actually helps distribute the light more evenly with a reflective screen!

Even a slight curve can help minimize hotspotting on a screen, so your plan has nothing along those lines to worry about.

The only things you need to keep an eye on will be dealing with the bowing of the image's top/bottom because of the curve.
 
#3 ·
Unless you plan to exceed 98" diagonal, the use of a .118 (1/8") 2nd Surface Acrylic Mirror is absolutely the way you want to go. 4' x 8' x .118 2nd Surface Mirrors are available and reasonably priced.

Such Mirrors are extremely flexible, easily adhered to any number of flexible substrates (...6 mm Sintra would be perfect...) and nothing can produce the "Light Fusion" effect as well as a Pure Aluminum Mirrored Coating.

If you use a BF/SF Silver Grey coating, the Light Fusion effect augments the recovery and re-introduction of absorbed light to counter virtually all attenuation in the lighter examples, and a appreciable amount with even the darkest versions.. Only the lack of larger Mirrors have reduced it's use....not any loss of desirability. In fact, what with the higher Lumen / High Contrast PJs, and the refined BF/LF formulas, more is possible today than ever before.

narhic_fd, you more than most should know that if I say it's so....then "make it so". Do not second guess your options this time around....we / you don't want another year or so of conjecture and guesswork.

Reference this USPTO # 7,453,632 for some details that should convince you not to toy with what is a refined approach
 
#7 · (Edited)
Ohhhh..I didnt know you could bend the acrilic mirrors. If you are doing a screen that needs something bigger then 4 x 8, what would you have to do then? I wish there were more examples of side by side images, from the same projector, being projected onto a Silver Fire screen next to a Silver Fire Light Fusion screen.
I remember some of the side by side shots, i saw in the older Superplexi forum, and was blown away by those but thats a fairly old thread and would like to see a modern projector use of Silver Fire light fusion.
Now, I did manage, one time, by accident, to see a sample of Light Fusion with the Behr Silver Screen/White Pearl painted on a small square section on a mirror. i wasn't trying to do anything light fusion but just wanted something quick that i could spray the Behr silver screen paint mixture on to see how it looked before I painted a real screen. I had a small mirror that i was going to trash and decided to paint on it. I painted the Behr on it and liked it so i did a screen using the paint.
But after i painted the screen on my wall with the Behr Silver Screen paint mix i noticed the little mirror i painted had a slightly brighter image and tad bit more contrasrt to it then the finished wall. At that time I didnt know anything about light fusion and just figured somehow the mirror must have made it a little brighter because mirrors reflect light. Now I know it was because of the light fusion concep. Wish i would have kept the mirror. And by the way, I primed the wall with white primer before painting the Behr Silver Screen on it.
 
#4 ·
That has some...different things mentioned.

-" In one embodiment, the primary colors are red, blue and
green, and the primary pigments comprise a red pigment,
a blue pigment and a green pigment. The coating may
further contain reflective pigments, comprising a red
reflective pigment and a yellow reflective pigment."

Did the old version of SF/BF use red/yellow reflective particles in a similar manner as the newer versions using silver and gold?

-" The projection screen coating contains one or more
selected “primary” pigments"
One or more..interesting the mention of less than three.
How does this correspond with SilverFire NC which uses no primary pigments?

-" The selection of primary pigments that correspond to the
projected primary colors provides improved visibility and
contrast of the projected image under normal lighting
conditions, such as daylight or a well lit room. In general,
the red, green and blue primary pigments will respectively
enhance the coating's reflection of red, green and blue
light over other colors. As a result, the coating will- tend to
enhance the reflection of the projected image over
ambient white light, thereby improving the visibility and
contrast of the projected image under normal lighting
conditions. In contrast, conventional white projection
screens do not discriminate against ambient white light"

You do realize that this has been shown to be false, I hope.
The projected light spectrum is top wide and too varied to be selectively included without likewise holding outside light-sources up at a visually equal level, AND the primary pigments' spectral reflectivity is far too wide to create any useable gaps even if that weren't the case.

I'm not at all saying this won't work.
I'm saying these aren't the reasons it does what it does.
Doesn't really change anything, but I'd consider the reading as fun promotional material more than hard art/science fact if you do choose to read it.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I can now see why further removal of possible redundancy in the SF/BF mix would seem so pointless;

A coating as described above, was prepared containing
the following components:

Component Amount-
Delta Ceramcoat Tompte Red 1.35 oz.
Winsor & Newton Galeria Phthalo Green 0.67 oz.
Delta Ceramcoat Phthalo Blue 0.35 oz
Delta Ceramcoat Antique Gold 1.0 oz.
Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Red Copper 1.35 oz.
Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Pale Gold 1.35 oz.
Plaid Folk Art Metallic Inca Gold 1.35 oz.
Behr Ultra Pure White Flat Acrylic Latex 24 oz.
Delta Ceramcoat Pearl Finish 42 oz.
Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver 32 oz.
Behr Deep Base 1300 Acrylic Latex 20 oz.
Minwax Polyacrylic Water Based 24 oz.
Polyurethane Clear Satin
Distilled Water 20 oz.
After all that, the current mix must seem about as easy as making Jello. :O

Finding out that most/all of those metallic paints were using transparent mica and that it was only the paints' colors making it appear coated must have been a huge work/time-saving revelation.

Cutting down to deep-base/poly one-or-the-other and not both makes equal sense. No real reason to use two transparent hardeners where one will do.

At what point in the timeline of mudd, maxxmudd, and 9-ingredient SF/BF did this previous version exist?
Was the above example really put to use?
 
#6 ·
The posting of such was not intended to elicit a detailed discussion on the workings behind the Patent, especially on this Thread...it was simply a signpost for narhic_fd to follow.

I am of course more than willing to discuss things via PM or email, (...specifically your last questions...) I just do not believe the DIY Forum is the correct venue.
 
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