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Old 09-18-2015, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Need inputs on conducting a mini screen shoot-out

Fellow AVSers,

I'm wanting to do a little experiment. I just got a JVC 6710 in this week and I have a Sharp VX-Z30000. They'll be on an audio tower behind my couch in the living room. The screen I'm really wanting, the Microlite F3, won't be available for another month or two. So, in the mean time...

Right now I already have a Dalite High Contrast High Power in 116" wide 2.35:1. So it would be about 100" in 16:9. I would mask the sides.

Looking into getting a bunch of different screen materials, probably for 100" 16:9 to match the Dalite, and play around to see how they look in different lighting conditions on different projectors. Maybe do a shoot-out.

I'm wanting to get the 1.5 gain silver ALR Silver Ticket material. Also, the Silver Ticket white neutral 1.0 gain material. I'm seeing that it's pretty well liked. Or, I would go with something like Carl's blackout cloth. Carl's also has a 2.0 gain silver material, though it's not meant for ALR duties.

Thinking about building a stand with wood and parts from Home Depot. It wouldn't be pretty (I'm honestly not too concerned with that rn, or maybe ever), but it would be functional. I could mount my Dalite on there and hang the other materials over/behind it.

I would like some thoughts on this. How to do it properly. What other materials are readily available that I should look into getting.

Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2015, 05:51 AM
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If you can setup the projector just a little above the screen's center and take the main on-axis and side off-axis pictures with the camera at the same distance and just below the screen's center, that'll help make sure both angular-reflective screens (most) as well as retro-reflective screens (HighPower and a couple others possibly) screens are looked at and pictured with optimal mounting...for both at once.

For any side-by-side comparison shots (especially side off-axis comparing viewing angles) have the screens above and below eachother instead of side-by-side. That along with the above mentioned mounting and viewing/picture angles will keep things properly equal for comparison.

If you'll be doing a comparison of light-rejection, it'll be handy to have both a tall floor-lamp and a moveable table-lamp...preferable fairly tall.
That should give a ton of room for experimenting with both overhead and side lighting and at all manner of distance/angles.

If possible, try to label the pictures with the screens shown (even typing in the corner of the picture), that'll help avoid confusion later.

I'm looking forward to this, however it works out.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
"A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
If you can setup the projector just a little above the screen's center and take the main on-axis and side off-axis pictures with the camera at the same distance and just below the screen's center, that'll help make sure both angular-reflective screens (most) as well as retro-reflective screens (HighPower and a couple others possibly) screens are looked at and pictured with optimal mounting...for both at once.

For any side-by-side comparison shots (especially side off-axis comparing viewing angles) have the screens above and below eachother instead of side-by-side. That along with the above mentioned mounting and viewing/picture angles will keep things properly equal for comparison.

If you'll be doing a comparison of light-rejection, it'll be handy to have both a tall floor-lamp and a moveable table-lamp...preferable fairly tall.
That should give a ton of room for experimenting with both overhead and side lighting and at all manner of distance/angles.

If possible, try to label the pictures with the screens shown (even typing in the corner of the picture), that'll help avoid confusion later.

I'm looking forward to this, however it works out.
Thx for the tips!

I still need to figure out what measuring equipment to get. Any suggestions there?
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:46 PM
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I believe (though could be wrong) that an inexpensive spectrometer like the colormunki or dIpro 3 can be used for measuring color neutrality as well as gain. That's in the $300-600range I think. Also, the colormunki might only be a colormeter and not available as a spectro..in which case I'd skip it because an uncalibrated colormeter will not be accurate.

Otherwise I imagine a simple light-meter and a solid reference flat-white 1.0gain surface should be both good and more affordable...though that'll only let you eyeball color-accuracy.

The calibration forum section should have some good insight. Let them know what you're up to and what your budget for this part looks like and I bet you'll get more up-to-date information.


If you're trying to keep costs somewhat low for this, the right light-meter should be able to tell you gain at the different axis while a reference white can help you describe the various screens as relatively accurate, warm, cold, green, etc.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
"A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 09-21-2015 at 09:50 PM.
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