A Screen Showcase & DIY Review - Page 4 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #91 of 245 Old 04-24-2003, 05:25 AM
KBK
AVS Special Member
 
KBK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: The Wilds Of Canada
Posts: 7,112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Comparisons with cartoons are not generally realistic,and generally.. not a good idea. They have no real delineated 'shadow detail' to go on, or to make valid comparisons with. Something well produced...and based on properly processed real film stock is the best bet, by far.

Ken Hotte

"Never forget that only dead fish swim with the stream." -- Malcolm Muggeridge.
KBK is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #92 of 245 Old 04-24-2003, 06:12 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
This thread is by far my favorite. all the "Powers that Be" are present. I stand in awe of the creativity.

Mark from Stewart makes some good points, as does Seand, but both forget that the purpose of finding an ideal surface finish for DIY'ers is the whole point, not spending as much for a Screen as you do for the PJ. That issue alone was enough to suppress the entry level market. But strangely enough, has anyone noted that everyone's Screen prices are dropping as well? Our efforts are in no small way affecting the Screen Mfg's line of thinking...even getting them a little riled As this translates into LOWER SCREEN PRICING, perhaps the industry's products will become THE ONLY route to take. Until then..................*

I take issue with the statement that surface uniformity cannot be achieved. But not with the statement that when using Silver / Metallic paints that it becomes much more difficult. Creating a completely featureless surface and then priming is the key here. Now that I'm going to place even more X1's than 20-HDs, I have to switch into "High Gain" mode. All Grey with no gain makes Jack a dull screen. And I've been so used to having a small degree of ambient light in the room ("lots of Family Room Theaters.") that the recent light controlled rooms featuring the X1 are a little depressing. Fortunately, the big drop in Client expenditure has convinced many to bite despite their dislike of "Dark Room" viewing. In fact, I've got people buying Theater seating, new Drapery, and Pop Corn machines with the remaining balance left over from the difference between the price of a 20-HD and the X1, let alone that from a $1400.00 + screen. Bump that up to a "Auto Masking" screen and .........well, I'm speechless. (no cracks, please.)

Make no bones about it, the Stewart "hawk" line is awesome in it's capabilities, but so is a Lamborghini, and owing one of those cars seems to be impractical...for the time being.

KBK, I hope to have time to hobnob with you at the shootout and relate a few special techniques and tools used to assure a flat, smooth wall finish, so your Goo and my Gunk has no problem spreading and laying evenly. Who knows? You probably already have it worked out. In any case, I'll be listening with great interest to your presentation.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is online now  
post #93 of 245 Old 04-24-2003, 08:02 AM
Member
 
bigshaka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Tyrg,

Your outstanding review has generated an exceptionally useful thread. I, like everyone else, truly appreciate the time and effort you went through. For my application, I had pretty much decided to give the Dazian matte white a whirl. Before doing so, I took the advice of someone else on this thread and spoke to Jason at AVS about raw fabric from the big manufacturers. Specifically, I wanted to know about Draper M1300 material.

For anyone else on the fence, I highly recommend you make the effort to get a quote. For me, the difference between raw Dazian and Draper material was less than $90 and the difference between a finished product (grommets on Dazian, velcro on Draper) less than $70.

I don't have the kind of budget where I can drop a grand on a ready made screen (unfortunately), but I can certainly justify an extra $90 for a known, quality product from a known, quality manufacturer. The screen, after all, is a pretty darn important piece of the system.
bigshaka is offline  
post #94 of 245 Old 04-24-2003, 08:03 AM
Member
 
seand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 195
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Originally posted by KBK
Comparisons with cartoons are not generally realistic,and generally.. not a good idea. They have no real delineated 'shadow detail' to go on, or to make valid comparisons with. Something well produced...and based on properly processed real film stock is the best bet, by far.

Still, the fact that even a cartoon looked sooooooo much better than it did on my wall (assuming my memory is good) was very persuasive. I actually did get to see a few of the "real life" scenes if the move too. It looked like I could walk into another room and just hang out with Bill Murray. I don't remember it looking like that on my wall...

But that's exactly why I have my Lord of the Rings DVD with me today! I just watched my favorite scenes again last night, so I'll have a fresh memory to compare. The store is a few miles from work, so it'll be a really fun long lunch today!!! Then back home tonight to re-evaluate.

Quote:


Originally posted by MississippiMan
I take issue with the statement that surface uniformity cannot be achieved. But not with the statement that when using Silver / Metallic paints that it becomes much more difficult.

I agree that it's not impossible. For me it's just impractical.

Of the DIY paint screens that I've tried, Flat White still wins with me because it's easier to spray and harder to mess up. High Heat Silver was the 2nd best looking of the bunch, but harder to get an even coat than flat white. I used 3/4 of a can on a 1'x1' area just to get solid and relatively uniform coverage where the hardboard base didn't show thru. Using primer would have probably been better. Occasionally on bright white scenes I would notice the metallic sheen of the paint instead of seeing the whole scene in front of me.
seand is offline  
post #95 of 245 Old 04-24-2003, 08:32 AM
Member
 
HTBuilder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Milford, Michigan, USA
Posts: 197
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
It seems that many people have taken the Parkland Plastics solution rather than try a painting solution. The beauty of the Parkland solution is that it doesn't require any painting - you just use the virgin material and mount it to a thick piece of foam board. Does anyone have opinions on the parkland product vs. a painted surface?
HTBuilder is offline  
post #96 of 245 Old 04-24-2003, 10:13 PM
Advanced Member
 
Rob4x20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 606
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Originally posted by HTBuilder
It seems that many people have taken the Parkland Plastics solution rather than try a painting solution. The beauty of the Parkland solution is that it doesn't require any painting - you just use the virgin material and mount it to a thick piece of foam board. Does anyone have opinions on the parkland product vs. a painted surface?


I made a parkland screenn and I would say painted surface would be way better if it is an option.

Parkland was heavy and a basic PITA, though the picture was pretty good.

The benefit of painting is easy variation/experimentation after initial setup. I bought a random matte white screen material on ebay next and built a wooden frame to staple it to, this is a much nicer looking (aesthetically/WAF) setup and allows for me to staple in something new and re-use the frame...same idea.

I didn't do a foam mount like you're suggesting so maybe my problems won't be typical. All I can say is, I wish I could paint. That'd be the setup allowing for the most fun, imo. I'd paint it different colors every month.

Good luck and the Parkland does provide a very nice image.

make sure to follow the instructions on the GLUE not the parkland plastics as far as application...IE: use the glue on BOTH surfaces unless the glue says only one.

good luck
Rob4x20 is offline  
post #97 of 245 Old 04-25-2003, 08:10 AM
Member
 
Jsan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have been using Parkland for six months now and thinking of rolling it with Goo CRT white.
Has anyone painted their Parkland with Goo?

KBK, Can I use your CRT White with my Parkland?
Jsan is offline  
post #98 of 245 Old 04-27-2003, 07:52 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mbaxter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Originally posted by Jsan
I have been using Parkland for six months now and thinking of rolling it with Goo CRT white.
Has anyone painted their Parkland with Goo?

KBK, Can I use your CRT White with my Parkland?

I was just thinking along the same lines, except my idea is to paint the textured side of a Parkland with the Rust-oleum Metallic Finish Aluminum paint that Tryg spoke so highly of.

Perhaps the texturing of the Parkland would help with uniformity/hotspotting.

It would be a less than $20 experiment so I may just give it a shot.
mbaxter is offline  
post #99 of 245 Old 04-30-2003, 12:45 AM
Member
 
BeBop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Lake Forest, Ca
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
OK, after reading Tyrg's review and seeing his pics I had to try this al-u-mimium thang....

But first, some background.....I am a lurker. Yes, I admit it, I have been reading these proceedings for a while now and have flung myself into the world of front projection. I bought myself plv-60 about a year ago and haven't looked back, and its all "your" fault ;-)

My screen for the past year has been a DIY canvas, 48'' x 90'' , painted with Bher "Universal Grey". My thinking was that this would be an inexpensive version of a "GreyHawk" screen. And generally I have been fairly happy with it. But Tyrg's experiment intrugied me so off to the Home Depot I go to get this al-u-minum paint, and just in time too as there are only two cans left! I used both of them to repaint my canvas screen.

Things I like -
After re-adusting the color and grey scale with the Avia disk, I see a great improvement in the brightness and color saturation. The image has more "Snap" and appears to have more depth of field, or to be more 3-d like. This produces a very seductive image.
The blacks are good as well, or at least as good as they were with the grey screen. The reason I went to a grey screen in the first place was that I thought it would give me improved black level and detail, but this very bright silver screen looks just as good in that area.
Another thing is the the screen door is gone! Even at close range I cannot see it. Somthing about the way the light is scattered creates a soft focus effect, not really noticable from the seating postion, but you can see it when you walk up to the screen.

Things I dont like -
This is very hard to get a uniform coat applied. I was not successful in this regard and thus the screen has some lighter and darker areas which are noticable when large single color areas are projected, ie skys and walls etc... Also the "grain" on the canvas can be seen as a slight veil you look through to see the image. This is more noticable that the screen door was with the grey screen, but it is much finer, and easy to forget about, for a while at least.
Hotspotting to a minor extent. The brighest part of the screen is directly in front of you. If you sit in the center, this is no problem. But if you sit at either end of the screen, then there is a noticable difference in brightness between the near and far ends of the screen. This problem is less severe the farther you sit from the screen. I sit 10' from the screen and it is still noticable somewhat.

Overall I like the effect and think I would prefer a higher gain screen than my previous grey one. But the Rust-o-leum may go a bit too far. I think a little less gain and more smoothness across the screen might be what I need. I bought a quart of Bher metallic silver that I can apply with a roller to try next......

Cheers

"Okay, so ten out of ten for style, but minus several million for good thinking, yeah?"
BeBop is offline  
post #100 of 245 Old 04-30-2003, 08:05 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Steve Dodds's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: San Francisco, now Australia
Posts: 2,886
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 17
I just did a test piece using a product called Penetrol Anti-Corrosion Aluminium paint. This is meant to penetrate into aged metal. It comes in a can which you roller on.

I applied it direct to a smallish piece of MDF. It sinks in so that the finish isn't glossy.

The initial test seems promising enough to do a full screen, although it does seem variable depending on the angle you view it.

I'll report back when I've done a fuller screen.

Steve
Steve Dodds is offline  
post #101 of 245 Old 05-01-2003, 12:02 PM
Newbie
 
Paul Van Gaal's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Newcastle Australia
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi
From down under, this has been great reading, i have built a screen using all the info.
Has anyone tried using a sheet of Aluminium that has been anodised in its natural colour, this would have a consistant colour and texture with a light sheen. Available from your local aluminium supplier.
I tried a small strip looks good will need to get a larger sheet and try.
As for Aluminium paint, try an acrylic water base spray can - this will give less gloss.
Paul Van Gaal is offline  
post #102 of 245 Old 05-01-2003, 01:38 PM
Advanced Member
 
mflanagan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Freezing Midwest
Posts: 997
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Keep us posted on that paint. I wish I could find something like the Rustolium that is rollable. I'll never get an even coat with Rustolium on a 130" screen

Flan

Flan's Theater!

Xbox Gamertag: Darth Flan
mflanagan is offline  
post #103 of 245 Old 05-01-2003, 03:46 PM
Senior Member
 
obiwan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi Paul,

I'm an optometrist in Brisbane. I use a projector chart at work, and the letters are projected onto a 50 cm x 50 cm piece of aluminium something or other. It certainly works well enough such that I can leave all the room lights on during testing. Its certainly a brighter, more contrasty image than if I swing the projected image onto the adjacent white wall. Its stuck to the wall with double sided tape so I can't just peel it off and take home to try. It does have a narrow viewing angle though, performance certainly drops off as you walk to the side. It looks great with all the colours of the various test types (red/green etc), but I don't know what it would do with flesh tones. Also the image looks a bit speckly compared to the image on the white wall, that might get a bit annoying, i.e., look too false with film/video.
obiwan is offline  
post #104 of 245 Old 05-02-2003, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Tryg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Washington
Posts: 9,743
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I'm glad people are having fun experimenting and finding some good results!

If more people continue to do this eventually there will be a material or paint that is found that knocks our socks off. Keep up the good work and if you can, share your results!
Tryg is offline  
post #105 of 245 Old 05-13-2003, 07:45 PM
Senior Member
 
AaronNWilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
can we get new hosting for these pictures?
AaronNWilson is offline  
post #106 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 07:45 AM
Advanced Member
 
hoops10's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 881
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have been reading that a lot of people are having problems getting an even coat with either the spray aluminum or spray silver. What if you took a sample of the spray aluminum/silver to a paint dealer, ie. Sherwin Williams, and had them match it so that it can be rolled on? Does this sound possible?
hoops10 is offline  
post #107 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 08:10 AM
Member
 
Nodecam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I don't think it's a simple matter of matching it. Unless your local paint dealer can match metallic paints (which I'd doubt) you're more likely to get grey paint out of the paint matching systems that I've seen.

The nice thing is that it is available in a can, you just have to look harder for it. I got mine at a J & H Builder's Warehouse (like Home Depot) I'd guess that if you asked nicely, someone could order it in for you, if you can't find it locally.
Nodecam is offline  
post #108 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Tryg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Washington
Posts: 9,743
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
hoops, go to an auto paint supplier.

I'll see what I can do to get a more reliable server for these pictures. Especially since I'll be posting more in a couple weeks.

BTW the SS is in the house.
Tryg is offline  
post #109 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 09:42 AM
Advanced Member
 
hoops10's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 881
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
tryg, so what you are saying is to take a sample of the rustoleum silver to an auto paint supplier and see if they can match it? While we are talking about this I might as well ask this, would rolling the paint on with a roller give a more even coat or would spraying it on with a spray paint can be the best way? Also, what about using drywall as the screen material? Has it been tried?
hoops10 is offline  
post #110 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 12:49 PM
Member
 
Nodecam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
It's far easier to get an even coat with a roller than a spray can.

There's a significant problem with controlling the spray out of the can, while with a roller, you have pretty good control of the application.

The nice thing with the aluminium is that it rolls really nicely - it doesn't dry so quickly that you have to do anything special to avoid lap marks - just backroll when you're done (at least in my experience)
Nodecam is offline  
post #111 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 12:53 PM
Member
 
JDecleri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cana, VA
Posts: 96
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I tried spraying silver using an electric spray gun similar to what you would use to spray a fence or house. After practicing on coardboard and sparying two patterns at a 90 degree angle the results looked acceptable. However when used with the projector, minor surface imperfections were unacceptable. Otherwise the picture was great compared to a matte white screen. Richer colors and deeper blacks.
JDecleri is offline  
post #112 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 12:56 PM
Member
 
JDecleri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cana, VA
Posts: 96
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I tried spraying silver using an electric spray gun similar to what you would use to spray a fence or house. After practicing on coardboard and sparying two patterns at a 90 degree angle the results looked acceptable. However when used with the projector, minor surface imperfections were unacceptable. Otherwise the picture was great compared to a matte white screen. Richer colors and deeper blacks. I first tried using a roller and that did not work. It lays differently than regular paint and each stroke leaves a line at the edge of the roller.
JDecleri is offline  
post #113 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 01:01 PM
Advanced Member
 
hoops10's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 881
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
JDecleri, so what did you end up doing? When you said "each stroke leaves a line at the edge of the roller" are you talking about a thick line, because if you back roll, it solves that problem.
hoops10 is offline  
post #114 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 03:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
gameboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,786
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Love the thread. Got curious and wanted to try the Rust-oleum Metallic Silver (RMS). Here is my story...

Background:
Current Screen: 3:2 80in blackout cloth
Projector: ViewSonic DLP (1024 by 768, 1000 lumens, 500:1 contrast)

I went to Home Depot and bought a couple of can RMS ($3.79/can). I was going to use it on my current screen, but after some advice from a friend who has more experience using spray paints, decided against it and bought a 40" by 80" foam-core board ($10) to try it out.

I laid it flat on a clean garage floor and let'er rip. It was impossible to get a consistent smooth finish. I tried various techniques, but due to the small radius of the paint coming out of the can, it is impossible to get a consistent coat. If I put another 10 coats I might have been able to get something acceptable, but was not going to spend another $60 trying that. After it dried, I hung it next to my screen and played some HDTV materials on it.

Pro:
Definitely better blacks and color saturation. The colors definitely poped compared to my blackout screen. I was surprised to see that the blacks were blacker. The picture was also noticeably brighter.

Con:
Of course the imperfections of the screen really shows through. Unless you get a perfect layer of paint, it is going to be very distracting. I also noticed that the silver flakes really shined bright. It is as though there were thousands of little stars shining in front of the screen - too distracting for my taste.

Overall, even if I could lay down a perfect layer of paint, I think this paint is bit much. Another paint with finer metallic powder may help, or may be mix with some other non-metallic paint.

Gonna try Parkland Plastic next.

Gameboy
gameboy is offline  
post #115 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 04:32 PM
Advanced Member
 
hoops10's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 881
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
gameboy, what is Parkland Plastic? Also, you may want to experiment with that paint on a piece of formica. I have read posts that said the formica makes a good material. I am thinking about doing a DIY screen, and maybe trying to roll the paint on instead of spraying it.
hoops10 is offline  
post #116 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 05:12 PM
Senior Member
 
Sime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 485
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
hoops, do a search on 'Parkland'. All your questions will be answered!

Simon
An aussie/us/ and brit citizen now living back in Oz - lived in MI for 6 years.
Sime is offline  
post #117 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 07:15 PM
Member
 
ricren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
One observation from someone new in this area:
Apparently the metallic silver paint is "tooo much". What happens if we apply a layer of semi-transparent/diffuse kind of paint OVER the silver? Just to difract/amortiguate to a degree the radiation of direct light reflecting from the screen? Makes any sense?

Ric
ricren is offline  
post #118 of 245 Old 05-14-2003, 09:05 PM
Senior Member
 
AaronNWilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I went to home depot and tried the Rust Oleum metallic finish "silver" and it seemed to offer less gain than my parkland plastics screen. I will look out and see if i can find the "aluminium" sometime. I sprayed it onto a high density wood particle board.

I should note that I was only using a small board sample and while the blacks appeared darker, it did not give any higher gain than my current screen which is what I was looking for.
AaronNWilson is offline  
post #119 of 245 Old 05-15-2003, 05:22 PM
Advanced Member
 
hoops10's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 881
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Aaron, when you got your parkland plastic, what color did you get it in? Are all parkland plastics in white or do they come in other colors?
hoops10 is offline  
post #120 of 245 Old 05-15-2003, 05:39 PM
Member
 
JDecleri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cana, VA
Posts: 96
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hoops10
I tried various roller techniques and still couldn't get it right. My alternatives would be to buy a quality HVLP spray gun and compressor on ebay for about $150 and try again, go back to matte white or buy screen material. I took the lazy way out and bought DaLite High Contrast Cinima Vision material from AVS.
JDecleri is offline  
Reply DIY Screen Section

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off