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post #181 of 245 Old 02-03-2004, 01:26 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Gray Davis
When spraypainting a screen, do you lay it flat on the ground or mount it to a wall? I assume you would lay it flat to avoid paint dripping down the screen?

You would be wrong in that assumption.

A. Flat on the ground would encourage the spread of dust particles onto the work.

B. To spray a good coat, one must both keep the Gun at right angles to the surface AND at the proper distance.* This is hard to do when vertical, let alone IMPOSSIBLE to do while flatly horizontal.
*(Many Mfg. Screen Reps. "say" that you need a robot to evenly spray.)

C. Many paints depend on their "Flow" characteristics to evenly disperse (spread) after application. Gravity plays an assist here. Also, Drips are caused by "Too Much Paint" being applied at a given spot, or WAY to much applied at one time overall.

D. It is next to impossible to judge the quality and evenness of a finish while flat on the ground. You need to have light shine across it on a vertical plane..

So........, stand up straight for the best results.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #182 of 245 Old 02-03-2004, 06:02 AM
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"So........, stand up straight for the best results."

Thanks, MM!

People of California! The moment will soon be here when you will ALL be sorry for what you have done to me! Your time of reckoning is growing near. Your cities will lie in smoldering ruins, your women will be ravished. Your men will cry bitter tears. You will ALL feel my wrath.
Yeah, that's...
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post #183 of 245 Old 02-26-2004, 01:12 AM
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It seems many people are having trouble spraying an even coat from a rattle-can. This is understandable. Rattle cans suck. Here's a trick I learned in art school: If you want to paint something well you need an HVLP gun. Then you can empty the rattle-can of pressure by holding it upside-down and spraying until the aerosol is gone. Then puncture the can with a nail and drain the paint into your HVLP gun --

jamie
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post #184 of 245 Old 02-26-2004, 09:05 AM
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Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but isn't there some risk involved in puncturing an aerosol can? Does spraying it upside down get rid of ALL the aerosol?

People of California! The moment will soon be here when you will ALL be sorry for what you have done to me! Your time of reckoning is growing near. Your cities will lie in smoldering ruins, your women will be ravished. Your men will cry bitter tears. You will ALL feel my wrath.
Yeah, that's...
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post #185 of 245 Old 02-27-2004, 03:59 PM
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Can powder coating be clear?

Yes it can. It can also comes with varying degrees of "gloss". I think they measure it in terms of percentage gloss- like 50%, 60%, 90%, etc... I'm also interested in what effect a flat or satin clear finish might have on the tendency of the silver paints to hot-spot. Eventually I'll get around to shooting a few test boards to find out for myself.

I plan on using Tryg's suggestion for aluminum paint. However, I'm currently looking for alternatives. To some degree, you can control texture buy how far away you hold the can from your spray surface. If you're using a compressor/gun setup I think you can just make the mixture a little dry if you want more of a textured surface.

It is desirable to get high-solids paints when possible. That alone should give you more consistent coverage within the bounds of adequate technique.

Here's an example of a good high-solids paint in a spray can:

Silver high-solids paint

As well, some auto paint suppliers can sell you a can of automotive paint in a self-contained spray can. It's kind of expensivish, (about $20/can), but for test purposes it might be the ticket.

If you go to a automotive paint supply store with knowledgeable staff, they can tell which paints will give you the best coverage. Have you ever wondered why some cans of paint weigh more? Believe me, there is a difference in paint quality. Auto paint should give you better and more controllable results. The only problem is it needs to be professionally applied for best results.

Good stuff Tryg.

"War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling that thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a...
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post #186 of 245 Old 02-27-2004, 07:11 PM
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Gray Davis,

Yes, there is a bit of risk in puncturing an aerosol can. I suggest eye protection.

-jamie
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post #187 of 245 Old 04-06-2004, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I hate to admit it, but I do use a rattle can for projects more than I use my HPLV gun. I'm lazy mostly. I do brake out the gun when I need professional results.

As far as puncturing the can...I'd use a bazooka no eye protection necessary.
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post #188 of 245 Old 05-04-2004, 10:55 AM
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I am interested in a two projector system to do 3-d using polarizing filters.
I've heard silver screen preserve polarization, while white screens do not.
How well does silver or aluminum paints preserve polarization? Obviously a can of spray paint is cheaper than an expensive silverized screen.
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post #189 of 245 Old 06-15-2004, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I've never experimented with this, or 3d, but I'd love to give it a try!
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post #190 of 245 Old 06-15-2004, 09:15 AM
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Tryg & Group,

I have now built 2 DIY screens. The first was temporary as I know I was going to get a new projector (had an OLD NVIEW LUMINATOR 480X640) so I just wanted to get something to view. I purchased a 96X48 1/4" fiber board at home depot with white melamine on one side. I figured at least I can watch a movie just by hanging it on the wall. It worked surprisingly well. I then painted it ultra white, and eventually with industrial aluminum. I must say I really liked the aluminum paint as it seemed to have more contrast and was definitely brighter.

I then move and find a home where I have a perfect room for home theater. Purchase a Panasonic L500U and paint a 10 foot by 6 foot 2 inch screen right on the wall. I went directly to the aluminum paint as I had such great results before. It was still bright, but I could hardly stand to watch the movie as the flaws in the wall stood out something terrible, where I hadn't really noticed before painting over the off white standard wall paint. I then patched what needed and sanded the entire screen area texture smooth. Then primed with KILLS paint and then used an ultra white with 4 or 5 coats. The screen has no flaws that I can detect and all is well... I have not re-painted with the aluminum as it was such a bear to cover with white. So I thought I'd let the paint (and my wife's feelings on the constant construction) cure for a while. I like the brightness and contrast of the silver but what if there are flaws that show up....

I bring this up as a reply to the 3-D message as I believe part of the reason the flaws show SO BAD with the silver will actually help you with the 3-D projection. So if you have a perfect screen to start with the silver is the way to go IMHO!

Rob

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See my home theater pictures at HTTP://WWW.HUFSTETLER.NET/ROB
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post #191 of 245 Old 06-24-2004, 12:05 PM
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You ARE the God of Screens!!!
Thanks, 29 times over, from the top of my HT heart!

"I wonder if any of the releases had slipcovers though."
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post #192 of 245 Old 06-30-2004, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks ED. I'm glad it helped you
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post #193 of 245 Old 08-31-2004, 05:30 PM
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I'm in agreement with Ed. This is a GREAT post. Thought I would bump it back to the first page (a must read for any DIYers)!
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post #194 of 245 Old 09-12-2004, 08:41 AM
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This forum is fantastic. Kudos to all the pioneers who have spent countless hours trying to find the perfect DIY screen formula. Lewis and Clark never worked so hard.

I am a DIY'er to the max. I am surprised that I haven't started generating my own electricity yet. Through all these projects I have found that many times much energy was spent and wasted when a much easier option was available.

Considering the effort and expense in creating a painted screen, particularly noting the number of failures encountered in this forum, a simpler solution may be more desirable.

I can't take credit for this idea. I saw it posted elsewhere. To me, it seems like the best DIY option WITH LITTLE CHANCE OF FAILURE.



Cousins video (on the web)sells Cut-To-Size Screen Surface x Dalite HC Cinema Vision at $4.99 a square foot. Black backing adds $.50 a sq.ft. They will also add a black border. That is around $200 for a 100" diagonal screen.Build yourself a frame, mount this High contrast 1.1 gain screen on it and you might well get yourself
1)a better screen
2)for less money
3)for much less hassle
4)and MUCH less grief from the estrogen producer who can't pull her car into the garage/spray booth for weeks.

It may not be a Firehawk but I don't drive a Ferrari either. The ultimate goal for all of us is VALUE. This seems to offer the best value.

Please respond. If I have erred I would like to know before I proceed down this road.
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post #195 of 245 Old 09-12-2004, 11:56 AM
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JackStraw3295,

You seem to be focused on the negative results, and very little concerned with the positives. If the DaLite HC option was so terrific, you'd think everyone would have gone that route. They haven't. BTW, it is NOT 1.1 gain. More like .85

Face it, they WANT your business, so they will say just about anything.

It is merely a easier option, not necessarily a good or best one.

Your PJ's performance, the room's characteristics, and your own expectations come into play in any decision, and unless your experience is more extensive that your post would seem to indicate, you should proceed with at least some caution. Post your PJ's specs, your rooms environment, and such, on your own thread in DIY Screens, and make your decision at least somewhat based on the responses and ideas your receive.

Failure comes the quickest to those who are impatient, or feel that they have nothing to learn from others' experience. In my time on AVS, I've seen that those who steadfastly followed sage advice and specific instructions to the letter have seldom failed. Those who have bastardized methods, cut corners on required materials, or experimented with known values just to put their own stamp on a project are the ones who complain loudest when things go awry. It's never their fault. Well, some do admit it...and go on to achieve success.

Your job of perusing though countless posts on enumerable threads can be far easier by enlisting the aid of those such as Tryg, myself, and several others. Despite my fondness for my own preferences, I've seldom given anything more than broad based advice, then let the Poster decide his own course. Most everyone else usually follows the same route.

So let us help, if we can. Don't settle for "So So" results with a big screen or you'll be condemned to a "SO SO' experience.

In any event, good luck!

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #196 of 245 Old 09-12-2004, 06:39 PM
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Without question your formula in the hands of someone adept at HPLV
paint spraying is the Platinum DYI option. The same formula in the hands of a less skillful painter may wind up of lower quality than than a DYI project made of a pre-made screen material. I've screwed up enough projects over time to be willing to accept the 85% option if it is guaranteed. The question is, what is the best substrate on the market? Is Da-Lite HC Cinema Vision really only a mediocre product? So many say that it is the next best thing to Firehawk albeit many steps lower. Any opinions?
Unfortunately, I have no place to view any screens where I live.
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post #197 of 245 Old 09-13-2004, 03:43 AM
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I should note that my HT has no windows and therefore no ambient light. Is a grey screen still indicated for this type of environment? White? Silver?
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post #198 of 245 Old 09-13-2004, 09:03 AM
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White's never a bad option. Maybe with your Z2 a touch of grey is OK but when ordering Da-Lite material there is no 'touch of HCCV' option.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/home...er_screens.htm

You're still building your frame, stretching your material, masking and dealing with Cousins if you find any screen flaws so IMO at a price of $250 the cost and hassle are not winning points.

You were saying they add a black border. Don't you have to get enough material so as to be able to wrap a few inches around your frame? Does the border come separate like a tape? With the front border, frame thickness and backside stapling you could do with maybe and extra foot for both height and width ( 70 bucks ) of what you want your viewing area to be. I have no experience here but this could be a consideration before you buy.

A good thing with BO material is you start off white and then if you feel like checking out a light grey scheme you experiment with painting it at no big loss. You get to know what your individual preferences are without commiting upfront. I daresay you won't be painting your HCCW to check out other colors. Once you really know what you want for your eyes in your setup committing to a more expensive material is easier. And you will already have a frame built, which after several months of watching different sources may change your mind on the size of screen you want.
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post #199 of 245 Old 09-15-2004, 06:30 AM
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Hi, Everyone in the states, you are so lucky to even have the option of purchasing Dalite and
Firehawk screen material.
I live in Melbourne Australia and I can not purchase any of the screen materials you have access to!!!!
I have to DIY or pay $2500 AUD ($1750 USD)for a 100inch HCMW!!!!!
Ridiculous pricing!!!
A 100 inch Stewart Firehawk is a total rip at $4500 AUD ($3150 USD)!!!!!

I have enlisted the help of my local cabinetmaker to ensure a frame of suitable strength and 'flatness'.
We will use the flywire noodles to hold the screen material tight.
A cabinetmaker has all the right machining tools for making an awesome frame and will only charge approx $200 AUD to make one, includes materials.

I am going to try blockout material first but I also have access to synthetic films at work and have been thinking about trying matt polyethylene, matt polyester, matt polypropylene or matt PVC.
Has anyone else tried these synthetic films?
They come with lovely matt surfaces.....
Interested to hear peoples thoughts.

Thanks you guys!

J

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post #200 of 245 Old 09-15-2004, 02:33 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by ender611
White's never a bad option. Maybe with your Z2 a touch of grey is OK but when ordering Da-Lite material there is no 'touch of HCCV' option.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/home...er_screens.htm

You're still building your frame, stretching your material, masking and dealing with Cousins if you find any screen flaws so IMO at a price of $250 the cost and hassle are not winning points.

You were saying they add a black border. Don't you have to get enough material so as to be able to wrap a few inches around your frame? Does the border come separate like a tape? With the front border, frame thickness and backside stapling you could do with maybe and extra foot for both height and width ( 70 bucks ) of what you want your viewing area to be. I have no experience here but this could be a consideration before you buy.

A good thing with BO material is you start off white and then if you feel like checking out a light grey scheme you experiment with painting it at no big loss. You get to know what your individual preferences are without commiting upfront. I daresay you won't be painting your HCCW to check out other colors. Once you really know what you want for your eyes in your setup committing to a more expensive material is easier. And you will already have a frame built, which after several months of watching different sources may change your mind on the size of screen you want.

Actually you just order it in a lace and grommet and it automatically comes with the 2" black border and specify that you want it with the snap studs installed and it is the same price... Just ask your dealer to request the other side of the stud... screw them into your frame allowing for the stretch which your dealer will be able to give you specs for depending on the size and that is all you need..

As far as spraying ... nothing beats a machine controlled spray for getting an even coat... DaLite coats the material in one pass... and then heated and repassed and reheated.. hard to beat ...
Stewart makes their own resins..
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post #201 of 245 Old 09-27-2004, 01:26 AM
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Does anyone have a working link to the Design Guide listed in Tryg's excellent OP?

A search of the thread under "Design Guide" didn't reveal it... TIA
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post #202 of 245 Old 10-31-2004, 07:53 AM
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post #203 of 245 Old 06-15-2005, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Great find! I looked for it again but couldn't find it. I'll update the original post
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post #204 of 245 Old 06-16-2005, 05:41 AM
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I had the link on this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=537625

- Zilla
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post #205 of 245 Old 07-19-2005, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doktor_Ssyko View Post

Tryg,
How can these findings be re-interpreted for us CRT owners?
Would the same best of breed prevail with the difference in equipment?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tryg View Post

Doktor_Ssyko,
I wish I could talk intelligently about CRT, but I dont, and have never had one. I know some people achieve superb results with Vutec's 13.2 gain curved silver based screens.
I would imagine any surface sheen would result in color shift with any of these products.


Tryg, this is on the first page of this thread.

I own a CRT, and I have not heard of the Vutec 13.2 gain curved silver

Can you give me more information on this, or do you know a superior solution for CRT projectors?

I've been researching Torus as a solution, but if you have something out there you know is better, I'd be interested.

Thanks,

Eric
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post #206 of 245 Old 08-07-2005, 12:12 AM
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Another worthy thread that's a good read. It's an oldie but goodie and has no business being on page three.
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post #207 of 245 Old 08-30-2005, 06:01 AM
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First off, I want to thank Tryg (and everyone else for that matter) for all the great info. After looking at some of the information here, I'd like to try out #27, the Rust-Oleum Metallic Finish "Aluminum". Just to make sure I'm getting the right thing... the only Aluminum color spray paint by Rust-Oleum that I see is #7715 and classified as a "Bright Coat Metallic Finish." Is that the correct paint?

What seems to give the best overall result from a canvas standpoint? I haven't seen any direct comparisons detailing differences in the material only (same picture, lighting, projector, etc.) Tryg started to go down that path here when he put #27 on the 3 different surfaces. I'm obviously a new guy, but I've been trying to research all that I can and appreciate any input.
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post #208 of 245 Old 08-30-2005, 07:07 AM
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Welcome to AVS. 7715 is the correct paint. A search for 7715 will provide some info. I suggest you click on the 1st link in my sig and take a look at my "Ever After" shot in my gallery.
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post #209 of 245 Old 09-21-2005, 10:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loafy777 View Post

First off, I want to thank Tryg (and everyone else for that matter) for all the great info..


Your welcome! Sorry, I haven't been doing a very good job of monitoring this thread
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post #210 of 245 Old 09-21-2005, 10:35 AM
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Tryg you may want to check out the CRT Forum
They are working on a couple concepts including mylar torus and aluminum torus
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