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Old 04-21-2017, 01:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Sintra "edgeless" Alternatives

Located Down Under, and it is literally impossible for me to find any sintra boards over 98".
Whats the next best alternative to achieve that floating edgeless/flatpanel like design that many here have created??
Cheers
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:02 AM
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Located Down Under, and it is literally impossible for me to find any sintra boards over 98".
Whats the next best alternative to achieve that floating edgeless/flatpanel like design that many here have created??
Cheers
A Framed Fabric Screen that is then Painted.

Stretched Fabric such as Flexi-White (1st Choice...needs a lighter weight Frame)
Stretched Fabric such as Black Out Cloth (2nd Choice....Frame needs to be more robust)
Gypsium Drywall on a Frame or directly applied to Wall, Taped, Mud'ded and skimmed (3rd Choice...least expensive...but heaviest if Framed.)

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Old 04-21-2017, 02:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Carls vs Paint

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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
A Framed Fabric Screen that is then Painted.

Stretched Fabric such as Flexi-White (1st Choice...needs a lighter weight Frame)
Stretched Fabric such as Black Out Cloth (2nd Choice....Frame needs to be more robust)
Gypsium Drywall on a Frame or directly applied to Wall, Taped, Mud'ded and skimmed (3rd Choice...least expensive...but heaviest if Framed.)
If I'm going to use fabric I might as well as use Carls ALR. Since I haven't researched/painted a screen in a stupid long time, how do all the new mixes compare with Carls ALR.

Situation:
Room is an open living space light will be on majority of the time.
Windows with a roller blind right next to the screen
Optoma HD25-LV which is "3500 Lumens"
Photos in next post
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rayan1910 View Post
If I'm going to use fabric I might as well as use Carls ALR. Since I haven't researched/painted a screen in a stupid long time, how do all the new mixes compare with Carls ALR.

Situation:
Room is an open living space light will be on majority of the time.
Windows with a roller blind right next to the screen
Optoma HD25-LV which is "3500 Lumens"
Photos in next post
Carl's ALR material is around 1.1-1.2gain and a darker-grey color than many mixes..it's a very smooth material which looks great for such an aggressive screen.

AZ Pearl mix (by James_ofAZ) has lower gain (around 0.8gain or less depending on which version you use), but it is one of very few mixes that can be made as dark-colored or darker (there is also a lighter-colored version).
It's less aggressive than Carl's ALR.
It can be rolled or sprayed.

BlackWidow has lower gain than it used to (in the ballpark of 0.5-0.7gain depending which variant you use) and can be made medium-grey all the way up to very light-grey.
It's much less aggressive than Carl's ALR.
It can be rolled or sprayed.

BlackFlame/SilverFire is typically around 0.8-1.2gain (depending if you're using it with the full metallic ratio or if you're using a muted version with a smaller ratio of metallic) and it can be made nearly as dark-colored as Carl's ALR or all the way up to very light grey.
It's slightly less aggressive than Carl's ALR (lighter versions or lower-gain versions are significantly less aggressive).
Most versions should be sprayed although the muted+lightcolored versions can also be rolled.

FolkArt Metallic and Matte-Polyurethane is around 0.8-1.4gain (depending which shade of FolkArt metallic you use) and can be significantly darker-colored than Carl's ALR (as dark-colored as DarkEnergyAbyss or ScreenInnovations Slate0.8 material) or any shade all the way up to white/off-white.
It's about as aggressive as Carl's ALR (more aggressive or less aggressive depending on how dark-colored you choose to go).
It should be sprayed.

Simple metallic+flat/matte paint mixes can be made anywhere between 0.4-1.8gain and beyond as well as just about any color you want.
It can be significantly more or less aggressive depending what gain and color you choose.
It can often be rolled or sprayed.

Your projector uses a nicely long throw-ratio which will work well with any screen.

Your best options for screen-gain will mostly depend on your screen-size (and like/dislike of 3D).
What screen-size would you like?
Are you a fan of 3D or do you not really care for it?

Your best options for screen-color will mostly depend on how aggressive you'll need the screen to be against ambient lights (VS how non-aggressive you'll need the screen to keep a certain amount of brightness for folks seated far toward the side if your seating arrangement is significantly wider than your screen).

For an aggressive screen that can fight more ambient lights than most, Carl's ALR (or the similar Elite CineGrey3D Designer Cut Series) looks fantastic and its price is quite hard to beat.
Some paint mixes can save a little money, but only a couple are able to fight ambient light more effectively so Carl's is a great option if you aren't going to paint directly onto a smoothed section of wall.

If your lighting situation isn't too bad and your screen-size is modest, a fairly non-aggressive mix is forgiving to use and generally inexpensive, but it won't fight ambient-light very aggressively nor keep brightness high for 3D and very large screen-sizes.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Carl's ALR material is around 1.1-1.2gain and a darker-grey color than many mixes..it's a very smooth material which looks great for such an aggressive screen.

AZ Pearl mix (by James_ofAZ) has lower gain (around 0.8gain or less depending on which version you use), but it is one of very few mixes that can be made as dark-colored or darker (there is also a lighter-colored version).
It's less aggressive than Carl's ALR.
It can be rolled or sprayed.

BlackWidow has lower gain than it used to (in the ballpark of 0.5-0.7gain depending which variant you use) and can be made medium-grey all the way up to very light-grey.
It's much less aggressive than Carl's ALR.
It can be rolled or sprayed.

BlackFlame/SilverFire is typically around 0.8-1.2gain (depending if you're using it with the full metallic ratio or if you're using a muted version with a smaller ratio of metallic) and it can be made nearly as dark-colored as Carl's ALR or all the way up to very light grey.
It's slightly less aggressive than Carl's ALR (lighter versions or lower-gain versions are significantly less aggressive).
Most versions should be sprayed although the muted+lightcolored versions can also be rolled.

FolkArt Metallic and Matte-Polyurethane is around 0.8-1.4gain (depending which shade of FolkArt metallic you use) and can be significantly darker-colored than Carl's ALR (as dark-colored as DarkEnergyAbyss or ScreenInnovations Slate0.8 material) or any shade all the way up to white/off-white.
It's about as aggressive as Carl's ALR (more aggressive or less aggressive depending on how dark-colored you choose to go).
It should be sprayed.

Simple metallic+flat/matte paint mixes can be made anywhere between 0.4-1.8gain and beyond as well as just about any color you want.
It can be significantly more or less aggressive depending what gain and color you choose.
It can often be rolled or sprayed.

Your projector uses a nicely long throw-ratio which will work well with any screen.

Your best options for screen-gain will mostly depend on your screen-size (and like/dislike of 3D).
What screen-size would you like?
Are you a fan of 3D or do you not really care for it?

Your best options for screen-color will mostly depend on how aggressive you'll need the screen to be against ambient lights (VS how non-aggressive you'll need the screen to keep a certain amount of brightness for folks seated far toward the side if your seating arrangement is significantly wider than your screen).

For an aggressive screen that can fight more ambient lights than most, Carl's ALR (or the similar Elite CineGrey3D Designer Cut Series) looks fantastic and its price is quite hard to beat.
Some paint mixes can save a little money, but only a couple are able to fight ambient light more effectively so Carl's is a great option if you aren't going to paint directly onto a smoothed section of wall.

If your lighting situation isn't too bad and your screen-size is modest, a fairly non-aggressive mix is forgiving to use and generally inexpensive, but it won't fight ambient-light very aggressively nor keep brightness high for 3D and very large screen-sizes.
So far the Carls ALR seems to be convincing me, I do watch 3D on the occasion and it is something I don't want to suffer with.
What I mainly concerned about is colour and black levels, how does Carls ALR perform compared to something like a painted screen or SI BD.
Aiming for 110" Screen.

Video Link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Z...ew?usp=sharing

Screen will be hung on the wall where the grey board is lying against, the windows to the left (at the end of the clip) will have roller blinds.
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Old 04-22-2017, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayan1910 View Post
So far the Carls ALR seems to be convincing me, I do watch 3D on the occasion and it is something I don't want to suffer with.
What I mainly concerned about is colour and black levels, how does Carls ALR perform compared to something like a painted screen or SI BD.
Aiming for 110" Screen.

Video Link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Z...ew?usp=sharing

Screen will be hung on the wall where the grey board is lying against, the windows to the left (at the end of the clip) will have roller blinds.
Carl's ALR will keep 3D and colors nice and bright at 110"...easily as bright or more than practically any painted screen of the same color (I've made painted screens that are equally dark-colored or darker with enough gain to give a brighter image than Carl's, but most of those kinds of mixes get REALLY unforgiving). Lighter-colored screens/paints can give an even brighter image as long as their gain is also high enough, but they won't have the deep blacks like Carl's ALR.

The BlackDiamond screens are both even darker-colored than Carl's ALR, but the BD.8 will be quite dim for 3D and the brighter BD1.4 will look dimmer from most seating positions compared to Carl's ALR.
The Carl's material compares much more closely to ScreenInnovations Slate1.2 material instead of their BlackDiamond screens, except Carl's costs only 5% of the price of Slate1.2 and Carl's looks a touch more color-accurate too (the Slate screens look a little cold/blue-ish to me).

For some reason I'm not able to get the video you linked to play, but your blinds should help the projected image quite a lot and the light-fighting screen will help against both the remaining lights as well as fighting the reflections on nearby walls/ceiling.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 04-22-2017 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 04-22-2017, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
te too (the Slate screens look a little cold/blue-ish to me).

For some reason I'm not able to get the video you linked to play, but your blinds should help the projected image quite a lot and the light-fighting screen will help against both the remaining lights as well as fighting the reflections on nearby walls/ceiling.
Will upload photos in next few hours.Personally in terms of colour performance what is the best Cinegrey 3D/5D or Carls?
Unfortunately the blinds will be only on the closest window, and since this is an open livning space there will be can lights in the ceiling almost always on .

Cheers
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For some reason I'm not able to get the video you linked to play, but your blinds should help the projected image quite a lot and the light-fighting screen will help against both the remaining lights as well as fighting the reflections on nearby walls/ceiling.


Screen will be on the wall with the light shining on it. There will be block out blinds on the Windows next to the bin but ideally I would like not to close them the whole way. There are also 4 can lights. Projector is gonna be mounted around 3.7M away from the screen. Most interested in what's going to give me the deepest blacks and brightest colours.
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Old Yesterday, 05:49 AM
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Most interested in what's going to give me the deepest blacks and brightest colours.
Based on your photos, and if that amount of light will be present during times when your watching........;

Watching at night...with the lights off.

As is sometimes the case, people will / do make their own Beds to sleep in, and then hope / expect that something will come along to help change the linen.

1st off, you'll never get far going with any screen that attacks ambient light solely on the merits of attenuation to deepen Blacks.

Nor will you find any ALR surface that can alleviate every symptom. Side-ways light yes...but not direct light. Direct Light yes, but not reflected or Overhead light. Viewing Cone loss....gotta live with it.

If you cannot or are not willing to go far enough in one direction or another, expecting to get good results under worse case scenarios just isn't a reasonable expectation.

Replace Flood Lamps in Can lights closest to the Screen wall with Spots.
Determine which direction the worst offending light comes from, and take the necessary steps to reduce it to the maximum you can.

You cannot / should not be fooled by advertisements that show remarkable ALR performance by even the most expensive MFG screens. They ALL have limitations....and if a Owner continues to ignore certain aspects of their own lighting environment that can affect such Screens, those limitations can render an investment moot.

In the quest for a huge, non-direct view screen, some degree of practical common sense, and a willingness to accept what is and is not possible (...within a budget and availability factor...) must be observed or there will be only frustration and sour grapes (buyer's remorse) in the offing.

Not trying to be all gloom & doom here. You can get most of what you want...just don't expect "dark room performance" unless you do what is necessary to mitigate the incoming light.

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Based on your photos, and if that amount of light will be present during times when your watching........;

Watching at night...with the lights off.

As is sometimes the case, people will / do make their own Beds to sleep in, and then hope / expect that something will come along to help change the linen.

1st off, you'll never get far going with any screen that attacks ambient light solely on the merits of attenuation to deepen Blacks.

Nor will you find any ALR surface that can alleviate every symptom. Side-ways light yes...but not direct light. Direct Light yes, but not reflected or Overhead light. Viewing Cone loss....gotta live with it.

If you cannot or are not willing to go far enough in one direction or another, expecting to get good results under worse case scenarios just isn't a reasonable expectation.

Replace Flood Lamps in Can lights closest to the Screen wall with Spots.
Determine which direction the worst offending light comes from, and take the necessary steps to reduce it to the maximum you can.

You cannot / should not be fooled by advertisements that show remarkable ALR performance by even the most expensive MFG screens. They ALL have limitations....and if a Owner continues to ignore certain aspects of their own lighting environment that can affect such Screens, those limitations can render an investment moot.

In the quest for a huge, non-direct view screen, some degree of practical common sense, and a willingness to accept what is and is not possible (...within a budget and availability factor...) must be observed or there will be only frustration and sour grapes (buyer's remorse) in the offing.

Not trying to be all gloom & doom here. You can get most of what you want...just don't expect "dark room performance" unless you do what is necessary to mitigate the incoming light.
Hey MM,

Have been talking with the family and we have all agreed the lights won't be on most of the time right on top of the screen, but the lights in the kitchen will be on most of the time. The window right next to the screen (currently near the bin) has blackout blinds and will be like that for when we view tv.

Cheers
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The CineGrey3D and Carl's ALR are very similar to each other while the CineGrey5D is a bit more aggressive and a little higher-gain. All three will help colors look less washed-out while still keeping them bright.
The CineGrey3D tends to be the favorite between the 3D and 5D, but there are also folks who prefer the 5D for its added aggressiveness or on-axis brightness.

Both the Elite CineGrey3D Designer Cut Series and the CineGrey5D Designer Cut Series are available for a little less than a 110" piece of Carl's ALR material..so the CineGrey3D can be a good alternative to carls ALR as long as you don't need it to be larger than 135".
I believe the CineGrey Designer Cut Series material is still selling around $90-$100.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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Old Yesterday, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Replace Flood Lamps in Can lights closest to the Screen wall with Spots.
Determine which direction the worst offending light comes from, and take the necessary steps to reduce it to the maximum you can.
^^^
I'm just repeating this because it's important advice that will make a very noticeable improvement.

For example, in my own "theater" I eventually replaced the regular light-switch with a $7 dimmer-switch which only required a flashlight (room gets dark when the breaker is turned off), screwdriver and about 5 minutes. Now it's super easy to keep enough light to read and see without having a needless extra amount of light washing out the image.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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The CineGrey3D and Carl's ALR are very similar to each other while the CineGrey5D is a bit more aggressive and a little higher-gain. All three will help colors look less washed-out while still keeping them bright.
The CineGrey3D tends to be the favorite between the 3D and 5D, but there are also folks who prefer the 5D for its added aggressiveness or on-axis brightness.

Both the Elite CineGrey3D Designer Cut Series and the CineGrey5D Designer Cut Series are available for a little less than a 110" piece of Carl's ALR material..so the CineGrey3D can be a good alternative to carls ALR as long as you don't need it to be larger than 135".
I believe the CineGrey Designer Cut Series material is still selling around $90-$100.
Thanks
Any hot spotting with the material, mounting the PJ 12’ 5⅝” or 3.8M away from the screen at full zoom.
Looked at the "aeon diy guide" material looks promising

Cheers
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Hey MM,

Have been talking with the family and we have all agreed the lights won't be on most of the time right on top of the screen, but the lights in the kitchen will be on most of the time. The window right next to the screen (currently near the bin) has blackout blinds and will be like that for when we view tv.

Cheers
Well Mate...that sounds a bit more doable. All the Mo' Bedder' if you can put a bit of Dimming on the Kitchen lights. It doesn't take much dimming to make a significant difference. Incandescent or Florescent light that is not directed squarely on the Screen wall will almost always be of a lessor Foot Candle intensity than the PJ's projected light, and any further reduction will just make it all the more balanced.

Of course shutting down the side-ways light on the left will make daytime viewing far more watchable.

The real truths that need to be accepted are that any / all ALR screens will lose something when combating ambient or directed light. None are perfect in their intended use. Certainly, the most aggressive, Retro-reflective screens, those whose gain provide a narrow viewing cone and whose darker color combine to offset intrusive light that bleaches out Blacks, Colors, and Gray-scaled detail will seem the most effective. The more Retro-Reflective they are, the more important it becomes to mount the PJ down lower than the the top edge of the screen. Significantly lower.

Until you get up and move off center.

Virtually none of the posted Screen shots of the Carl's or CineGray 5D are taken from any viewpoint out past 30 degrees off-axis...and they all are taken from standing height, not down closer to the level one's eyes will watch from....primarily. Nor do they / can they effectively show just exactly how much their surfaces show graininess or artifacts....both well known issues with any Mfg ALR screen, and all the more so as ALR performance increases.

And some posted MFG examples do show a degree of Hot Spotting. Angular Reflective? You simply must get the Projector's Lens height to fall within a prescribed level "above" the Screen's topmost edge so the the angle of reflection matches the angle of viewing from the seating position. This can mean mounting the PJ almost flush against the ceiling. But then of course, when you stand up......?

SI-BD screens just have far too much going against them that when one considers the costs involved to even be considered worthy of consideration.

The whole thing boils down to if you feel comfortable with taking a chance with your cash. Your in OZ, so anything imported carries with it far more "PITA-ism" as far as returns, if such are even practical.

The Carl's material or the CineGray 5D will almost assuredly need to come in a folded state, which would probably mean impressed wrinkles and creases that may or may not be an issue you cannot avoid and / or correct. And anything shipped from the US to OZ will come at more of a premium as far as shipping.

Yeah...not a lot of joy so far...just a lot of ifs' and maybes'. If you have a lucky Wallaby whose belly you can rub for luck...that might help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayan1910 View Post
Thanks
Any hot spotting with the material, mounting the PJ 12’ 5⅝” or 3.8M away from the screen at full zoom.
Looked at the "aeon diy guide" material looks promising

Cheers
Yep...that was / is a nicely done example....with excellent attention to build quality. But again, a close inspection shows that the Images shown were all taken within a restrained area, and as mentioned elsewhere, the CG5D's aggressive reflective properties can and do tend to increase off-axis hot spotting. The OP states it's only a issue at times...but when those times occur they can be real buzzkills.

Your most cost effective solution since you seem willing to build a Frame would be to order the Carl's Flexi-White, something that can be stretched out to eliminate any shipping wrinkles, and painted with a advanced Metallic Mix that can easily overcome any degree of light present if you do indeed take the steps you recently related above.

Or Carl's Flexi-Gray....which is of a higher gain than most "simple Flat Grays" but still dark gray enough to be considered a ALR-oriented material. It also has almost no Viewing Cone limitations, although as is, it will not do anymore to correct for ambient light than the shade of Gray of the Screen and the PJ's own lumen output can counteract. Worst case...if it is a bit more lacking in performance than you feel is needed, it too can be painted upon.

Doing as I suggest will save you $thousands$ compared to any SI-BD screen, and avoid the potential of receiving a material that has defects you cannot work around.

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Your hd25lv projector's throw-ratio is listed at 1.5:1 or longer which will pair very well with ALR screens.
That fairly long throw-ratio will help avoid visible hotspotting by giving the screen a more uniform direction of projected light.
The slightly less aggressive CineGrey3D or Carl's ALR material will also have less risk of hotspotting than the more aggressive 5D.
Carl's ALR is shipped on a roll instead of folded by default (I believe all three of these may be). The roll means a longer and more expensive package, but it means you won't have to fix folds/creases.

Shipping any other fabric (even with the intention to paint it), you'll still want to avoid folds/creases, so shipping is going to cost a similar amount no matter what you get unless it's local.

Your projector's vertical offset (when ceiling-mounted) works well with Angular-Reflective style ALR screens, which is luckily the most common style for most paint-mixes and most manufacturer screens...both CineGrey 3D and 5D as well as Carl's ALR are Angular-Reflexive instead of Retro-Reflective, so they all work best with the projector ceiling-mounted and the viewers sitting down.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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Well Mate...that sounds a bit more doable. All the Mo' Bedder' if you can put a bit of Dimming on the Kitchen lights. It doesn't take much dimming to make a significant difference. Incandescent or Florescent light that is not directed squarely on the Screen wall will almost always be of a lessor Foot Candle intensity than the PJ's projected light, and any further reduction will just make it all the more balanced.

Of course shutting down the side-ways light on the left will make daytime viewing far more watchable.

The real truths that need to be accepted are that any / all ALR screens will lose something when combating ambient or directed light. None are perfect in their intended use. Certainly, the most aggressive, Retro-reflective screens, those whose gain provide a narrow viewing cone and whose darker color combine to offset intrusive light that bleaches out Blacks, Colors, and Gray-scaled detail will seem the most effective. The more Retro-Reflective they are, the more important it becomes to mount the PJ down lower than the the top edge of the screen. Significantly lower.

Until you get up and move off center.

Virtually none of the posted Screen shots of the Carl's or CineGray 5D are taken from any viewpoint out past 30 degrees off-axis...and they all are taken from standing height, not down closer to the level one's eyes will watch from....primarily. Nor do they / can they effectively show just exactly how much their surfaces show graininess or artifacts....both well known issues with any Mfg ALR screen, and all the more so as ALR performance increases.

And some posted MFG examples do show a degree of Hot Spotting. Angular Reflective? You simply must get the Projector's Lens height to fall within a prescribed level "above" the Screen's topmost edge so the the angle of reflection matches the angle of viewing from the seating position. This can mean mounting the PJ almost flush against the ceiling. But then of course, when you stand up......?

SI-BD screens just have far too much going against them that when one considers the costs involved to even be considered worthy of consideration.

The whole thing boils down to if you feel comfortable with taking a chance with your cash. Your in OZ, so anything imported carries with it far more "PITA-ism" as far as returns, if such are even practical.

The Carl's material or the CineGray 5D will almost assuredly need to come in a folded state, which would probably mean impressed wrinkles and creases that may or may not be an issue you cannot avoid and / or correct. And anything shipped from the US to OZ will come at more of a premium as far as shipping.

Yeah...not a lot of joy so far...just a lot of ifs' and maybes'. If you have a lucky Wallaby whose belly you can rub for luck...that might help.



Yep...that was / is a nicely done example....with excellent attention to build quality. But again, a close inspection shows that the Images shown were all taken within a restrained area, and as mentioned elsewhere, the CG5D's aggressive reflective properties can and do tend to increase off-axis hot spotting. The OP states it's only a issue at times...but when those times occur they can be real buzzkills.

Your most cost effective solution since you seem willing to build a Frame would be to order the Carl's Flexi-White, something that can be stretched out to eliminate any shipping wrinkles, and painted with a advanced Metallic Mix that can easily overcome any degree of light present if you do indeed take the steps you recently related above.

Or Carl's Flexi-Gray....which is of a higher gain than most "simple Flat Grays" but still dark gray enough to be considered a ALR-oriented material. It also has almost no Viewing Cone limitations, although as is, it will not do anymore to correct for ambient light than the shade of Gray of the Screen and the PJ's own lumen output can counteract. Worst case...if it is a bit more lacking in performance than you feel is needed, it too can be painted upon.

Doing as I suggest will save you $thousands$ compared to any SI-BD screen, and avoid the potential of receiving a material that has defects you cannot work around.
Ay mate
Don't think there is going to be any difference in price and if both come in rolls I would probably go with the 3D.
Do you think there is a local material I can get and paint? Think its time for another holiday down under MM
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Your hd25lv projector's throw-ratio is listed at 1.5:1 or longer which will pair very well with ALR screens.
That fairly long throw-ratio will help avoid visible hotspotting by giving the screen a more uniform direction of projected light.
The slightly less aggressive CineGrey3D or Carl's ALR material will also have less risk of hotspotting than the more aggressive 5D.
Carl's ALR is shipped on a roll instead of folded by default (I believe all three of these may be). The roll means a longer and more expensive package, but it means you won't have to fix folds/creases.

Shipping any other fabric (even with the intention to paint it), you'll still want to avoid folds/creases, so shipping is going to cost a similar amount no matter what you get unless it's local.

Your projector's vertical offset (when ceiling-mounted) works well with Angular-Reflective style ALR screens, which is luckily the most common style for most paint-mixes and most manufacturer screens...both CineGrey 3D and 5D as well as Carl's ALR are Angular-Reflexive instead of Retro-Reflective, so they all work best with the projector ceiling-mounted and the viewers sitting down.
Yup will be ceiling mounted for sure, does having it at full zoom affect anything at all???
If you were in my case which way would you go Cinegrey 3D, Carls ALR or Paint.
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Yup will be ceiling mounted for sure, does having it at full zoom affect anything at all???
If you were in my case which way would you go Cinegrey 3D, Carls ALR or Paint.
Having the projector at the closest position which allows the size you want helps it be a little brighter while having it at the farthest position and zoomed small to fit the screen at the greater distance helps the ALR screen give a slightly more uniform brightness across the entire screen...BUT because that projector doesn't have a ton of zoom-range, the difference in both of these isn't going to be huge.
Luckily your projector will be plenty bright on a 110" screen at any zoom amount and your 1.5:1+ throw-ratio means your uniformity will be solid even at the closest/largest zoom position.

If it were me, my first go-to is painting the wall directly because in my situation it can be very cheap yet very good...But in your situation, even local paints aren't that inexpensive and the only fairly cheap surface at that size is probably drywall at 5x8 on a wooden frame.
Aside from added shipping costs, these ~$100 screen materials aren't much more expensive than drywall+paints and their performance isn't tied to how good your paint-job turns out.
I'd go with the CineGrey3D or Carl's ALR unless you can get a smooth surface to paint and a decent water-based metallic and flat/matte (and probably water-based matte polyurethane) all for a significantly lower price.
Between the Carl's ALR and the CineGrey3D Designer Cut Series, I would double check to see if either offers a usable guarantee to arrive in perfect condition..if neither does, I'd opt for whichever is less expensive at the time because their performance is quite close.
If shipping on a roll all the way to you is ridiculously expensive, paint is a great second choice.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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What isn't being considered is the expense in shipping in a Roll, beyond the 20.00 up-charge, the cost of shipping a 60" + long tube will be an eye opener, if indeed a "deal breaker".

And if folded, the ALR materials involved all have decidedly more issues with creases....defects that will NOT go away.
I no of no instance where the CineGray is / was shipped folded, and it's doubtful the Carl's ALR material is either. That being the case, I can state from personal experience that shipping "anything" in a well packed Tube 60"+ long via International Air Freight (FedEx/UPS/USPS) will cost more than either of the materials themselves.

Really, suggesting otherwise, and without really knowing what is / is not possible isn't doing rayan1910 any favors here. But all it takes is checking it out with the suppliers, so why all this conjecture?

Quote:
Between the Carl's ALR and the CineGrey3D Designer Cut Series, I would double check to see if either offers a usable guarantee to arrive in perfect condition..if neither does, I'd opt for whichever is less expensive at the time because their performance is quite close.
If shipping on a roll all the way to you is ridiculously expensive, paint is a great second choice.
The last part of the first sentence make little sense...unless one simply wants to chance taking a loss. And even if either would offer a Return for refund / credit, one can be certain the return freight would be on the Buyer's ticket.

So that makes the last sentence the most believable, and if the Wall cannot be effectively smoothed to virtual perfection, the Carl's Flexi painted (...or in Gray...) is the most sensible route to take.

A lot of wasted time here on this back and forth...

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Ay mate
Don't think there is going to be any difference in price and if both come in rolls I would probably go with the 3D.
That would probably be a decent choice....if the choice lay only between those options.

Quote:
Do you think there is a local material I can get and paint? Think its time for another holiday down under MM
Probably Black Out Cloth in the size you need is the only viable option.

I'd love to come back...but it's getting toward Winter down under and that was what it was last time I was there.
And while I did drag some Mid South Temps over with me into Sidney ( up from 16 c to 24 c ...) Perth was pretty damp and cold.

Then there is the 17hours sitting in a Coach Seat. Nope...gotta get paid for that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayan1910 View Post
Yup will be ceiling mounted for sure, does having it at full zoom affect anything at all???
If you were in my case which way would you go Cinegrey 3D, Carls ALR or Paint.
Paint. It's been done before...quite recently in fact. And it still leaves you open for the Material option.

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That would probably be a decent choice....if the choice lay only between those options.



Probably Black Out Cloth in the size you need is the only viable option.

I'd love to come back...but it's getting toward Winter down under and that was what it was last time I was there.
And while I did drag some Mid South Temps over with me into Sidney ( up from 16 c to 24 c ...) Perth was pretty damp and cold.

Then there is the 17hours sitting in a Coach Seat. Nope...gotta get paid for that!



Paint. It's been done before...quite recently in fact. And it still leaves you open for the Material option.
Down to paint, any specifics i have to follow for the black out cloth?
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Down to paint, any specifics i have to follow for the black out cloth?
Do you have access to BlackOutCloth that's on a roll which is longer/taller than the typical 52-54inches?
A 110" screen will want 58"-60" or taller BlackOutCloth to give enough fabric to staple along the outside edges..but most fabric stores only sell the smaller roll size.

If the larger size BlackOutCloth isn't available, would switching to a screen-size around 100"-105" be an okay alternative?

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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Quote:
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Do you have access to BlackOutCloth that's on a roll which is longer/taller than the typical 52-54inches?
A 110" screen will want 58"-60" or taller BlackOutCloth to give enough fabric to staple along the outside edges..but most fabric stores only sell the smaller roll size.

If the larger size BlackOutCloth isn't available, would switching to a screen-size around 100"-105" be an okay alternative?
110" is what I'm aiming for but we'll, I have also found somewhere selling 98" sintra board so that might be the next best thing if i don't find the 60" material. Now just need to focus on the paint itself. Has anyone used the sonicchill1 paint mixes??
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Found 59" fabric. Should be fine?
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