Originally Posted by rayan1910
Have been talking with the family and we have all agreed the lights won't be on most of the time right on top of the screen, but the lights in the kitchen will be on most of the time. The window right next to the screen (currently near the bin) has blackout blinds and will be like that for when we view tv.
Well Mate...that sounds a bit more doable.
All the Mo' Bedder' if you can put a bit of Dimming on the Kitchen lights. It doesn't take much dimming to make a significant difference. Incandescent or Florescent light that is not directed squarely on the Screen wall will almost always be of a lessor Foot Candle intensity than the PJ's projected light, and any further reduction will just make it all the more balanced.
Of course shutting down the side-ways light on the left will make daytime viewing far more watchable.
The real truths that need to be accepted are that any / all ALR screens will lose something when combating ambient or directed light. None are perfect in their intended use. Certainly, the most aggressive, Retro-reflective screens, those whose gain provide a narrow viewing cone and whose darker color combine to offset intrusive light that bleaches out Blacks, Colors, and Gray-scaled detail will seem the most effective. The more Retro-Reflective they are, the more important it becomes to mount the PJ down lower than the the top edge of the screen. Significantly lower.
Until you get up and move off center.
Virtually none of the posted Screen shots of the Carl's or CineGray 5D are taken from any viewpoint out past 30 degrees off-axis...and they all are taken from standing height, not down closer to the level one's eyes will watch from....primarily. Nor do they / can they effectively show just exactly how much their surfaces show graininess or artifacts....both well known issues with any Mfg ALR screen, and all the more so as ALR performance increases.
And some posted MFG examples do show a degree of Hot Spotting. Angular Reflective? You simply must get the Projector's Lens height to fall within a prescribed level "above" the Screen's topmost edge so the the angle of reflection matches the angle of viewing from the seating position. This can mean mounting the PJ almost flush against the ceiling. But then of course, when you stand up......?
SI-BD screens just have far too much going against them that when one considers the costs involved to even be considered worthy of consideration.
The whole thing boils down to if you feel comfortable with taking a chance with your cash. Your in OZ, so anything imported carries with it far more "PITA-ism" as far as returns, if such are even practical.
The Carl's material or the CineGray 5D will almost assuredly need to come in a folded state, which would probably mean impressed wrinkles and creases that may or may not be an issue you cannot avoid and / or correct. And anything shipped from the US to OZ will come at more of a premium as far as shipping.
Yeah...not a lot of joy so far...just a lot of ifs' and maybes'. If you have a lucky Wallaby whose belly you can rub for luck...that might help.
Originally Posted by rayan1910
Any hot spotting with the material, mounting the PJ 12’ 5⅝” or 3.8M away from the screen at full zoom.
Looked at the "aeon diy guide" material looks promising
Yep...that was / is a nicely done example....with excellent attention to build quality. But again, a close inspection shows that the Images shown were all taken within a restrained area, and as mentioned elsewhere, the CG5D's aggressive reflective properties can and do tend to increase off-axis hot spotting. The OP states it's only a issue at times...but when those times occur they can be real buzzkills.
Your most cost effective solution since you seem willing to build a Frame would be to order the Carl's Flexi-White, something that can be stretched out to eliminate any shipping wrinkles, and painted with a advanced Metallic Mix that can easily overcome any degree of light present if you do indeed take the steps you recently related above.
Or Carl's Flexi-Gray....which is of a higher gain than most "simple Flat Grays" but still dark gray enough to be considered a ALR-oriented material. It also has almost no Viewing Cone limitations, although as is, it will not do anymore to correct for ambient light than the shade of Gray of the Screen and the PJ's own lumen output can counteract. Worst case...if it is a bit more lacking in performance than you feel is needed, it too can be painted upon.
Doing as I suggest will save you $thousands$ compared to any SI-BD screen, and avoid the potential of receiving a material that has defects you cannot work around.