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post #1 of 34 Old 09-14-2017, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Screen Reccomendations

Hey guys,

I have not been browsing these forums for long, but with the amount of information that I have found, I am not sure I would ever be able to pick an option myself, so I would like to ask some professional advice.

I just picked up an Optoma HD8200 for a steal with 900 hours on the bulb. I would like to put a screen up in my living room wall in my apt and will be able to set the projector about 12 feet from the wall.

I do not have a big budget, and I can build things, so I thought I would make my own. The main thing that I am not yet confident on is what color screen I should be getting and how much gain it should have based on my projector.

Some things to consider....

The room is white-ish.
There is a sliding door that will be to the left of the projector that currently has those cheap plastic vertical curtains (I can put up a blackout cloth curtain over if that is what you would suggest)
I do have tools to cut and build most anything, and live in a good size city so I will have access to most materials.
I love the look of the LED backlight edgless screens.

I appreciate everyone's time and have been inspired by all of the awesome home theaters you all have!

Cheers!
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post #2 of 34 Old 09-14-2017, 01:36 PM
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At that distance the 8200 can make a screen up to 8ft-wide or much smaller (if you need to).
Some extra gain can help at the larger end of these sizes, but you shouldn't need anything extreme.

A grey screen can help against the natural reflections of the white/light-colored room and also help fight a little light sneaking in.
Putting BlackOutCloth over the sliding door will help make the room darker whenever you want, so that's a good idea.

Do you have any preferences between painting a material or buying a good grey screen material (both are quite affordable)?

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #3 of 34 Old 09-14-2017, 05:16 PM
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Welcome DucatiMann !

Ducati eh? A great ride that! Not for the timid though...
The 900cc Cafe' Racers can make even experienced riders soil their pants with a simple twist of the throttle!.
The 1200cc Model kills people with regularity.

So with that thought smeared indelibly into our consciousness... let's get things rollin' fast by finding out exactly what "good size city" you do live by/in. That will allow me to zero in on your Material options.

Other Qs'

How high is the Ceiling?

Can you do some modest Electrical work (Outlet relocating) ?

Do you have Amazon Prime?


All in all, doing up a Zero Edged Screen w/LED Backlighting isn't a really difficult chore...or horribly expensive. There are different approaches, and the nicer ones do involve more expense and effort. But no overly so.

Active now is a Thread with an excellent build / quality "Here"

It can be done a bit simpler...and for less cash...but probably not much if any nicer.

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post #4 of 34 Old 09-15-2017, 07:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Welcome DucatiMann !

Ducati eh? A great ride that! Not for the timid though...
The 900cc Cafe' Racers can make even experienced riders soil their pants with a simple twist of the throttle!.
The 1200cc Model kills people with regularity.

So with that thought smeared indelibly into our consciousness... let's get things rollin' fast by finding out exactly what "good size city" you do live by/in. That will allow me to zero in on your Material options.

Other Qs'

How high is the Ceiling?

Can you do some modest Electrical work (Outlet relocating) ?

Do you have Amazon Prime?


"Here"[/URL]

It can be done a bit simpler...and for less cash...but probably not much if any nicer.
I am sure you have heard it before, but your activity on here is amazing. I am a coffee enthusiast and have a coffee business that I was able to get up and running because of awesome people like you!

I actually worked for Ducati for a number of years and have owned over 30 motorcycles through a business I had in high school and college. Ducatis are by far the most entertaining to ride on the street, and they sure can scare you!


I live in Austin, TX.
Ceiling is probably 10ft
I can do electrical work, but I think my apt complex would frown quite heavily on it.
I do have amazon prime! I actually just bought a ceiling mount and an extension cord for the projector (seeing as I probably can't put an outlet in the ceiling)

I am also not picky about paint or buying cloth. The cheaper the better, but I also don't want it to look cheap. I made a screen a while back with wood and blackout cloth for my old projector, which was fine, but I just watched a movie yesterday on my wall with the 8200...man does that projector look nice!

I will probably get blackout cloth to cover the door with because it really ruins the picture quality.
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post #5 of 34 Old 09-15-2017, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I see a silver ticket white screen on amazon with 1-day shipping for $230. It has a border, but I could raise it off the wall and still put my LEDs behind it. Would it be an option to also paint it gray?
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post #6 of 34 Old 09-15-2017, 03:33 PM
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Adding LEDs behind and painting a screen like that SilverTicket can work well, BUT you'll really want to be spraying any paint-mix on (still neither terribly expensive nor tricky, but worth mentioning in case you didn't realize and aren't willing to spray).
However, adding LEDs to a wooden frame you build yourself is usually a better bet because you can design the frame to pair particularly well with the backlighting, AND a homemade frame plus something like FlexiWhite or Carl's ALR would cost less while looking and performing great.

A light-fighting material like Carl's ALR can be fantastic as well as costing roughly $50 less than buying a good white material plus an appropriate sprayer plus paints, but paints can give you the option of a lighter-colored screen if you don't need as much light/reflection fighting and would favor an overall brighter screen.
Your projector's throw-ratio lends itself well either way..grey screens like long-throw projectors.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #7 of 34 Old 09-16-2017, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DucatiMann View Post
I see a silver ticket white screen on amazon with 1-day shipping for $230. It has a border, but I could raise it off the wall and still put my LEDs behind it. Would it be an option to also paint it gray?
You can do that...but as stated before, painting it would be a real assurance of performance, and you will have to engineer an effective way to mount / distribute the LED lighting effect.

I suggest this Screen. It is just a bit more expensive, but entirely more in keeping with the LED Edged lighting.



Several sizes to choose from. Find it HERE

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post #8 of 34 Old 09-16-2017, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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It seems as though part of my decision has been made for me. A good friend of mine has 1" x 2" aluminum tubing so I will be going that route. I am debating on whether to weld it or just bolt together with metal plates.

Now for how to mount the screen material....I could do the velcro on the back side or I could wrap it around the frame for an edgeless screen.

What type of material should I get? This is going to have a 96" diagonal. I can come up with some clever way to mount the LED lights and how to get it on the wall.
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post #9 of 34 Old 09-16-2017, 07:12 PM
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If you're painting it, FlexiWhite is hard to beat. Not very costly, nicely smooth, and stretchy enough to be pretty easy to work with.
Carlofet.com will let you order it on a roll instead of folded for about $20 extra..a much safer way to go for avoiding creases.

Alternatively, you could grab their Carl's ALR material which is also smooth, stretchy and easy to work with. It already comes on a roll while costing a bit more but it already fights light just as it is..so you could potentially use it as-is or paint it at any time.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

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post #10 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! can I get away with using the smallest size, 49" x 86"? My screen will have a 96" diag. so it will be 84" x 47". How much does the material stretch?
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post #11 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:13 AM
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It can stretch several inches, but it'll be a lot easier to work with if you give yourself a few extra inches to hold onto while pulling it tight AND keep in mind you'll want enough extra inches all the way around because you'll likely either be attaching the material to the frames outside edge (or around the outside all the way to the back) for an edgeless design or using a screen-tite style system which takes up some slack. I don't think velcro would work well unless you only tightened the material just enough to hold it flat (some folks have said good things about using these materials with only light tension while others swear by pulling them drum tight).

Luckily, they also allow custom sizes which are still pretty affordable at these more modest sizes..so ordering a slightly larger piece if a perfect pre-cut option isn't available can still work out well.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

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post #12 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:18 AM
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Thanks! can I get away with using the smallest size, 49" x 86"? My screen will have a 96" diag. so it will be 84" x 47". How much does the material stretch?
You'll have plenty of "stretch-able" leeway...no issue at all. Easily 6" each direction...or a bit more.

However as stated above,Velcro is not a plausible...or even doable option.

Staples....that's the ticket.

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post #13 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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You'll have plenty of "stretch-able" leeway...no issue at all. Easily 6" each direction...or a bit more.

However as stated above,Velcro is not a plausible...or even doable option.

Staples....that's the ticket.
Staples will be difficult into aluminum!
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post #14 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:42 AM
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Staples will be difficult into aluminum!
That sounds like a job for "Screen Tight" then.

Or pre-drilled holes using Truss Head screws at 2" intervals.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Truss_Head_Self_Tapping_Screws_Series.jpg (16.2 KB, 179 views)

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post #15 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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What is screen tight? I have never heard of it.
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post #16 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:52 AM
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It's a long groove that has a narrow rubber tube wedged into it to pinch a material into the gap and hold it..typically screen-door material, but folks have used it with projector screens for a really long and successful time.
It's extra nice because it doesn't puncture the material and its easier to adjust things after the fact or disassemble everything if needed.

The long groove sections can be screwed onto just about anything, and the rubber tube can be cut and pushed in place bit by bit if needed.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #17 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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It's a long groove that has a narrow rubber tube wedged into it to pinch a material into the gap and hold it..typically screen-door material, but folks have used it with projector screens for a really long and successful time.
It's extra nice because it doesn't puncture the material and its easier to assist things after the fact or disassemble everything if needed.
That sounds great! It looks like you can buy it from home depot as well. Would I mount it to the back of the frame or the side?
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post #18 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:57 AM
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Back would allow you to wrap around the sides and go cleanly edgeless, while sides would work best with a narrow bezel to cover the material and screen-tight at the edges.
Either way could look and perform well depending on what you want it to look like.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #19 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Back would allow you to wrap around the sides and go cleanly edgeless, while sides would work best with a narrow bezel to cover the material and screen-tight at the edges.
Either way could look and perform well depending on what you want it to look like.
Makes sense.

Someone here in Austin recommended using a piece of masonite from home depot and just painting over it. That would be a very easy (and cheap!) way to do it. I could afford to buy a paint gun as well going that route. What do you think?

This looks like a good option. It would be easy to mount it to the aluminum frame and i could leave an edge for the LED lights...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-...TW48/205995949

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post #20 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 09:51 AM
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Wow. I feel dumb for not mentioning that as a great option at the size you're using.
Unlike stretched material, the floppy paneling can often benefit from the frame having vertical braces to help support it in the middle..and inexpensive 1x3 or 1x2 poplar+woodglue might be easier than aluminum.

I love how smooth ThriftyWhite is.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #21 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow. I feel dumb for not mentioning that as a great option at the size you're using.
Unlike stretched material, the floppy paneling can often benefit from the frame having vertical braces to help support it in the middle..and inexpensive 1x3 or 1x2 poplar+woodglue might be easier than aluminum.

I love how smooth ThriftyWhite is.

Great! At $13 for a panel, I will probably get my friend to pick one up with me after work and we will go test it out. From what I have read, it looks like the material is pretty shiny, but it will be a good starting point.

Any cheap gray paint I can roll on temporarily? I know people recommend mixing things. Can you tell me exactly what I should buy?

Thanks again for all of your help!
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post #22 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 02:13 PM
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If you roll a paint on first, it might somewhat texture the surface so you'll want to lightly sand it before sprayng something fancier later..so that's something to keep in mind.
It can help things start smoother if you really water down the paint and roll it while the panel is laying flat on the ground (otherwise it can run badly)..it'll need two or three coats this way with a few hours between each while laying down.

For a plain flat grey, you'll want to stay really light-grey unless you very much prefer a darker/dimmer overall image. The light, neutral, grey color "Universal Grey" is safer than going darker and is available through practically all of the Glidden brand at most/all its price-points.

If you're looking for ingredients to mix and spray, you've got several options for different mixes which can vary a lot on the ingredients used. However, both Mississippi and I often like to add water-based matte polyurethane to sprayed-on mixes and HomeDepot sells a nice Varathane matte poly by the quart.
We have some different opinions on metallic; for spraying, Mississippi often like Rustoleum Metallic Accents Sterlingsilver and Pearl metallic from Lowe's and online, but for spraying I really like FolkArt metallic artist acrylic (metallic pearl, sterling silver and/or gunmetal grey) from Wal-Mart which you'd need 4 little tubes total. I don't like the FolkArt for rolling.

With a screen that size made with a solid panel, you could also carefully roll a mix while it's laying flat on the floor for extra smoothness despite rolling, but it can still be a bit tricky. Spraying with an appropriate gun for thin, watery paint is usually a lot more forgiving.

Before I bog you down with a lot of really specific details, is there a particular direction you'd like to go and/or certain things you'd like to avoid?
-Is buying a ~$50-$60 sprayer and using that an option?
-Is rolling a temporary screen alright if you might need to sand it later before spraying?
-Is rolling a mix preferred despite being more tricky than spraying?
-Would you prefer a darker-colored mix if possible for looks/aesthetics, or is a light-grey mix alright?

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

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post #23 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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For now, I have no place to spray. The impatient side of me would like to paint the screen today. I don't care what color gray it is provided it works alright with my light situation. I will post some pictures as soon as I get home.

Right now, the most cost effective way would be ideal. I had a couple motorcycle helmets stolen off my bike last night so I will be replacing those asap...

So,

Roller
Any grey that works well
Cheap
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post #24 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Before I bog you down with a lot of really specific details, is there a particular direction you'd like to go and/or certain things you'd like to avoid?
-Is buying a ~$50-$60 sprayer and using that an option?
-Is rolling a temporary screen alright if you might need to sand it later before spraying?
-Is rolling a mix preferred despite being more tricky than spraying?
-Would you prefer a darker-colored mix if possible for looks/aesthetics, or is a light-grey mix alright?
I have no issue sanding the screen later, or just buying another panel!
I don't mind mixing either.
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post #25 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 07:39 PM
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If you want super easy, it's hard to beat asking HomeDepot for their least expensive tintable Glidden, interior, flat, and having them tint it "Universal Grey".

If you want something both a little darker-colored and a little higher-gain, HomeDepot sells PPG tintable silver metallic for $22/quart. If you buy a quart of that metallic (have them shake it, but don't add any tint to the metallic) you can mix 16oz of the metallic with 4oz of flat Glidden paint that's tinted a darker grey like "Granite Grey".
It can help in this case to first use 16oz of the dark-colored Glidden and combine it IN A SEPARATE CONTAINER with 5oz-6oz water to give the panel a really thin and light coating of flat paint. This will look like crap on its own, but gives the metallic mix something smooth but easier to stick to once it's dried for a few hours.
Once the Glidden+water single coat is dry, you can mix your 16oz PPG metallic and 4oz Glidden grey together in a container and carefully roll it on with little/no pressure and only rolling in one direction while using a new 1/4" roller-cover (they sell 3packs at Wal-Mart for ~$4 which is much less than HomeDepot).
If you're rolling the metallic mix while the panel is laying flat on the floor, you can thin the mix a bit with 3oz-4oz water, but if you're painting the panel while it's upright I don't really suggest thinning the metallic mix...maybe 1oz.

Here's a video of how I've been rolling metallic. Pretend this section is 7ft wide instead of 2.5ft wide and still 4ft tall...a short 2ft roller want/broom handle can help if you aren't comfortable reaching/leaning over a 4ft tall panel to paint it.
I have longer written "instructions" also explaining this rolling in a bit more detail if this isn't clear..and/or feel free to ask any questions you want.
This isn't the only way, but it's a way that's worked well for me.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #26 of 34 Old 09-19-2017, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I read your post on that but wasn't exactly sure what kind of paint I should be picking up. I'll get some today and try it out!
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post #27 of 34 Old 09-19-2017, 10:05 AM
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I look forward to seeing this. Hopefully the paint rolling behaves itself to give you a nicely smooth result once it's all dry.

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Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #28 of 34 Old 09-19-2017, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
I look forward to seeing this. Hopefully the paint rolling behaves itself to give you a nicely smooth result once it's all dry.
Has anyone tried these foam rollers? They are meant for paneling.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-7...0070/204330448
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post #29 of 34 Old 09-19-2017, 02:55 PM
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I prefer regular fuzzy/nap rollers because they seem to hold and supply a slightly more constant supply of paint through a row..some of the foam rollers can run dry faster and a bit more suddenly which is bad news if it happens partway through a row.
I definitely can't claim to have tried them all though, so I can only say that I've preferred the regular nap rollers over the foam rollers I've tried.

I've also heard foam rollers can put tiny bubbles in the paint sometimes, I imagine that's another reason to avoid using too much pressure while rolling.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #30 of 34 Old 09-20-2017, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I picked up 2 1/4" nap rollers, 1 quart of untinted metallic silver, and 1 quart of granite grey.

When I got home, I set up the piece of Eucatile up on my future frame.

Lesson number one, cut this stuff to size before you start painting on it! The paint does not like sticking on the shiny smooth surface so the primer coat (granite grey with some water mixed in), comes off extremely easily. My friend who was helping pointed that out to me before I attempted the final coat.

Off to Miami for a business trip but I will give it a go when I get back! I will probably get the screen mounted on my aluminum frame before painting it again. I figure I can cut it and just add another really light layer of granite grey over the top of the first coat on that edge that will get messed up when cutting the material.

Apparently the only easy way to cut this tile board is by using a circular saw and having a very stable work space to prop it on. Luckily my friends have one I can borrow. I don't want to transport the piece now that I have already painted it, so I will try to rig something up at my place!


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