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post #331 of 383 Old 03-28-2004, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by CMRA
My curiosity has the better of me. A member wrote, seemingly intoxicated with excitement, about his results of adding pearl-essence with ME. While in my dungeon this week, I'll most likely give it a go. Could this also be the foundation of a new topcoat for LFS?
Just couldn't get over to HD to buy some pearl-essence. However another member mentioned his willingness to make a go at it. I also asked another member if he'd be willing too since he's putting together his first ME screen. One way or another we'll all know. Stay tuned.
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post #332 of 383 Old 03-30-2004, 10:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's the latest concoction: "Black Pearl". This, I kid you not. Pearl-essence with lamp black mixed in. Yeah, I'll try that too. Rahu, thanks for the heads up.
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post #333 of 383 Old 04-02-2004, 01:22 PM
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MM,

You quoted to PlatinumZ:

"Now you bring into the scenario a PJ (780) with 2000 lumens and 400:1 CR.
THAT we can work with, to the point it's worth the time, trouble, and expense.

With such high lumens, you don't want to go down the Silver Metallic road. An increase in brightness you DON"T need. Instead, you need to first try out Misty Evening - The Mines of Moria Style.

Increase the lamp black to 5 - 1/48 oz. droplets of Lamp Black, and 3 1/48 oz. droplets of Thallo Green.

This mix will stand up to your PJs lumen output with substantial white levels remaining despite your darker surface, with the Grey and Thallo hues augmenting your Black levels to HT standards. If the Whites come out a trifle dull, or any lighter or hotter Colors likewise, we can bring 'em back up with a translucent Top Coat with white and red additives."

Can you confirm that this simply ME with (5) 1/48 oz. droplets of lamp black and (3) 1/48 oz droplets of thallo green. My question is whther the additive formual is based on one quart of ME or one gallon of ME?

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post #334 of 383 Old 04-05-2004, 09:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by CMRA
Just couldn't get over to HD to buy some pearl-essence. However another member mentioned his willingness to make a go at it. I also asked another member if he'd be willing too since he's putting together his first ME screen. One way or another we'll all know. Stay tuned.
I did make it to HD today. Got the last jar of white opal on the shelf. Stay tuned. Looks like I get the job. Again.
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post #335 of 383 Old 04-06-2004, 10:16 PM - Thread Starter
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One coat of WO atop ME. No great shakes. Another coat coming.
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post #336 of 383 Old 04-12-2004, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Sometimes you just have to push the envelope to see the results. Word of advice: steer clear.
The two coat effort produced way too much sheen. This resulted in hotspotting and a narrowing viewing cone with NO appreciable benefit.
The one topcoat after curing actually brought a little 'snap' to the image. It merely needed more drying time.
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post #337 of 383 Old 04-20-2004, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I couldn't resist. I even sprayed some of this mix atop a mirror. Not what I had expected. But I had to find out. Avoid this path too.
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post #338 of 383 Old 04-28-2004, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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To look at it you'd say it is gray. But that SM/kilz2 has the right stuff. Of the last few efforts this one has promise. A little mirror action is next. I wonder if this isn't similar to the behr silverscreen?
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post #339 of 383 Old 05-06-2004, 04:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by CMRA
To look at it you'd say it is gray. But that SM/kilz2 has the right stuff. Of the last few efforts this one has promise. A little mirror action is next. I wonder if this isn't similar to the behr silverscreen?
From the looks of it, no DIYers have taken a gander at this combo. Surely some of you have some SM left over and want a good cheap solution? And, it looks good even without a mirror.
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post #340 of 383 Old 05-08-2004, 07:02 AM
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CMRA, you seem to be replying to another thread. I am confused, you say you are going to try black pearl, which turns into a pearl overcoat, which morphs into a SM/kils combo? I am interested in you black pearl idea (and any idea from you) but I am having a hard time finding where the discussions are being held.

Thanks Gary
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post #341 of 383 Old 05-09-2004, 02:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gary01
CMRA, you seem to be replying to another thread. I am confused, you say you are going to try black pearl, which turns into a pearl overcoat, which morphs into a SM/kils combo? I am interested in you black pearl idea (and any idea from you) but I am having a hard time finding where the discussions are being held.

Thanks Gary
Gary, the saga continues...slowly. Earning a living has a way of getting in the way of my DIY projects.
Black Pearl may be more appropriately named Gray Sheen. On a small test panel positioned off axis of the of the PJ, it yielded favorable results. On axis, apparent hot spotting, which required the addition of UPW to control. This resulted in a grayish goo.
The SM/Kilz2 combo resulted in similar results without the hassle or expense and yielded snappier whites.
The original idea was to create a 'light fusion' solution that could be used with ambient light. Hope this helps.
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post #342 of 383 Old 05-10-2004, 09:00 AM
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Thanks, I now feel up to date. The SM/Kilz2 combo is a overcoat for LF screen or can it be used on a wall? Also what ratio are you suggesting for the mix? I would like to try it on my temp ME screen.

Thanks Gary
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post #343 of 383 Old 05-11-2004, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gary01
Thanks, I now feel up to date. The SM/Kilz2 combo is a overcoat for LF screen or can it be used on a wall? Also what ratio are you suggesting for the mix? I would like to try it on my temp ME screen.

Thanks Gary
Actually, my testing proved favorable with and without the mirror. Mix the silver to taste. There is no set ratio. The more silver you add the deeper the blacks. Too much silver will likely narrow your viewing cone and potentially hot spot. Best to mock up several 2'x4' panels and determine which matches your setup best.
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post #344 of 383 Old 05-11-2004, 01:43 PM
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I have a Z2 like you and would like to know if I should add Silver to the white or white to the silver. say 2/3 of one and a 1/3 of the other and then fine tune from there.
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post #345 of 383 Old 05-11-2004, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gary01
I have a Z2 like you and would like to know if I should add Silver to the white or white to the silver. say 2/3 of one and a 1/3 of the other and then fine tune from there.
Silver into white, always. And, mix completely. Start with 15 parts white to one part silver. Add more silver to taste.
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post #346 of 383 Old 05-15-2004, 02:27 PM
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I have not had a cchance to try this as I have take ill this week but hope to get to it next.
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post #347 of 383 Old 05-23-2004, 04:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gary01
I have not had a cchance to try this as I have take ill this week but hope to get to it next.
We are still waiting. Opinions?
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post #348 of 383 Old 06-21-2004, 10:03 PM - Thread Starter
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ME has been under attack lately. The 'too blue' camp insists ME is too blue.
Here are three fleshtone screenshots in succession taken September of last year.
I see a 'tint' but are these screen shots excessively blue?
Feedback wanted.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...070&fullpage=1

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...083&fullpage=1

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...097&fullpage=1
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post #349 of 383 Old 06-25-2004, 07:14 AM
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I have been having a hard time finding Kilzs here in Nassau but in my search I did find some Glidden silver and pearl paints. What do you think of using the SM with a light tint base instead. (Maybe with a little pearl thrown in for good measure?)Caught me snoozing:}
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post #350 of 383 Old 07-11-2004, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Feedback wanted.
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post #351 of 383 Old 07-15-2004, 11:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Go Here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...40#post3963340

View the links. Report back if these images are blue to you.
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post #352 of 383 Old 12-12-2004, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CMRA
ME has been under attack lately. The 'too blue' camp insists ME is too blue.
Here are three fleshtone screenshots in succession taken September of last year.
I see a 'tint' but are these screen shots excessively blue?
Feedback wanted.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...070&fullpage=1

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...083&fullpage=1

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...097&fullpage=1
Look ok to me. Sorry for the late feedback :)
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post #353 of 383 Old 12-12-2004, 10:05 AM
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The original mistyeve had 25/48ths lamp black and 6/48ths pthalo green per gallon in a masonry stucco glidden thing. Gliddens more recent mistyeve mix had pthalo blue as well as pthalo green in it. Does anyone know the amounts of each color in this newer mix. Was the lamp black a little less?

Just thinking with sebastioniov's 'soft denom' behr mix ( 24/48ths lamp black, 12/48ths pthalo blue and 12/48ths raw umber ) and the silverscreen mix ( 20/48ths lamp black, 20/48th raw umber, 2/48th red ) that the soft denim is kind of a cross between the two.

The pthalo's are luminescent colors where as the raw umber is more of an opaque color. The umber might help mute any blue shift from the pthalo or the lamp black.
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post #354 of 383 Old 08-02-2005, 11:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Did you know...Glidden changed the formulation on ME? It's true. Now they add thalo blue along with thalo green to the mix. Crazy.
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post #355 of 383 Old 08-03-2005, 05:00 AM
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Well, repost the correct formula and the Hell wit 'em.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #356 of 383 Old 08-03-2005, 05:02 PM
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It just ain't misty eve no more :( how dare they mess with it!

I was wrong back then...the raw umber is no opaque color. This ugly brownish yellow color has figured in well for our screens.

Back a few years ago when pjs were ziltch in the contrast department the mississippiman had a roll for a few months with a altered, lighter version of a popular mix ( forget the name )and the formula for this lighter mix...

lamp black 160 48ths ( approx only.. listed as 3 oz plus some 48ths )
raw umber 80 48ths
exterior red 4 48ths

Then BCortez of course dropped the bomb a couple years later with the silverscreen...

lamp black 20 48ths
raw umber 20 48ths
exterior red 2 48ths

And another poster went to the extent of taking a HCCV ( or one the manufactured screens anyways..I’ve got to write names down ) sample to four different paint stores to get the color code and all came up with...

lamp black 18 48ths
raw umber 40 48ths
exterior red 2 48ths

Now for the blue, green side. Sebastionov used eggshell blue denom on his screen. He later created a light fusion ( the full plexi mirror and all ) and held it up to his baby blue. He's still watching his blue screen and the light fusion is sitting in the garage!!! :eek: He said colors looked right on and he was getting more pop. I bought this blue denom paint recently ( figured it would do for a bedroom wall ) and it is very blue. The raw umber is completely overpowered by pthalo blue in equal amounts.

Lamp black 24 48ths
Pthalo blue 12 48ths
Raw umber 12 48ths

And then of course probably the most painted screen a year ago..the original misty eve

Lamp black 25 48ths
Pthalo green 6 48ths

And its latest unproven form...and I'm going by memory!!

Lamp black 20 48ths
Pthalo green 4 48ths
Pthalo blue 4 48ths

There was always a small lamp black only crowd and then there was Tom Bombadil's pursuit of the neutral grey with just a touch of raw umber added to the lamp black.....but the neutral push just never gained momentum. Maybe to get that pop we have to shift slightly and its just a matter of picking which direction.

better edit in the sebastianiov link since I misspelled the name.( took some searching!)

and it wasn't a light fusion! Close one. It was mmud over silver metallic that he was comparing to. Still amazing that such a blue screen wasn't shifting the colors compared to mmud.
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post #357 of 383 Old 08-03-2005, 06:44 PM
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better edit in the sebastianiov link since I misspelled the name.( took some searching!)

and it wasn't a light fusion! Close one. It was mmud over silver metallic that he was comparing to.
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post #358 of 383 Old 08-03-2005, 09:10 PM
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Excellent post. Should be reposted by you in the DIY Facts sticky.

Everything except that Garage Bound LF! :(

Gotta find a happy home for that Kitten!

I'd have to see tha "blue wall" screen, but the secnario does prove that a certain color that delivers a dynamic image can often do so without being so overtly skewered that a "non-critical" viewer often finds the difference pleasing, not detrimental.


Harrrrumph....! Garage indeed.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #359 of 383 Old 08-03-2005, 09:56 PM
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I always figured color shifting was never that big a deal since there are filters that can correct for that. I know my Fatboy Variation screen is helped by the fact that I've got a warming filter on my X1 to compensate for the extra bit of percieved contrast I'm pushing out by making the image a little cooler.

Sometimes it's not just the screen, it's the tweak you can stick on the projector that helps you meet halfway. If I can get good pop on a screen, but the image is color shifted by the paint I'm using, I can correct that either in the projector, or with a filter on the end of the lens. It's a correction method I don't see mentioned, and would add, in most cases, 40 dollars at most (15 dollars at least in some cases) to the cost of your already rather cheap screen.

My first screen, which was Behr Silverscreen mixed with some WOP, was helped by the fact I corrected the slight color shift by tweaking the proj a little and throwing that filter on the front. Just trying to get a little more punch where I can get it. and now with the Fatboy Variation, plus the proj tweak, I'm enjoying a deeper picture than I've seen at ANY of the theaters here in the Portland area. And I've gone to a lot.

Just wanted to point out that for some of us DIY screenkids that might not venture into the projector forum all that much anymore, there's just as much inventiveness on the proj side, especially if you've got an X1, that you can use to get every last iota of goodness onto that screen.
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post #360 of 383 Old 08-03-2005, 10:42 PM
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I do got to get me some of those filters
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