Metallic Silver/ MississippiMud screen intructions - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Please note that Changes to this Thread's information, instructions, and reccomended materials are undergoing revision to keep up with recent discoveries. To highlight "Changes" such will be shown in Blue, with the appropriate change in Red.

If you aspire to this application, it would always be good proceedure to contact me personally ( invisible2u@comcast.net ) , or in the least, post a new Thread with your specific question/s or concerns


This thread is dedicated to those of you who would aspire to create a large screen surface on a Drywall wall, or almost any other substrate that can be painted.

The principles to be covered are:

SM/MM LFWS


Learning to smooth a Drywall surface (in this post)

Utilizing the contrast enhancing aspects of Silver Metallic paint.

Acquiring the Top Coat mix and tailoring it to your specific needs

Rolling or Spraying the Top Coat correctly


Screen Shots of on going and completed projects will be interspersed throughout the threads initial posts. Please refrain from posting any replies until I post a "go ahead" so as to keep all pertinent instructions easy to find and in order at this threads' beginning.


Getting the surface ready for painting.

First of all, you want to start with as smooth and featureless surface as possible. If your wall is already painted, and has ANY degree of surface texture, you must wet sand it down to smooth.

Use a "Medium " Large Wet Sanding Sponge A bucket of water, and have several old towels at hand.

Soak the sponge, then squeeze out all the water you can by folding the sponge into you fist as you squeeze "ONCE". Just start squeezing and pull the sponge inward. You'll see.

A big part of the secret is to have just enough moisture in the sponge to suppress dust and prevent gouging streaks into the finish.

Using sweeping, gentle, but firmly applied strokes, top to bottom and reverse, and go over each line about 3 -4 times and move on, overlapping as necessary. Don't over work the surface as you go, but do watch to see irregularities are being sanded down. Spot sand a big defect in a more vigorous, 'area defined' sweep, but don't over do it.
(I'll say that a lot.)

Check you sponge after at least each 10 lines or so, better still, at first, just keep checking it after 10 sweeps to see how much paint is coming off, and in what pattern it's taking on the sponge. Adjust you pressure so that when you check, your sponge has a fairly even distribution of debris on it.
Watch for areas where you seeing the base underneath coming out and STOP if you see that happening.

After you've got you area smooth to the eye and touch, let dry then wipe all dust off the surface before applying ANY finish of any type.

Use this set of instructions as your guide after every application of paint to come.

Next to come:

Priming and roll technique:

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
The next step is to prime the prepped surface for the later application of the Silver Metallic Faux paint. Matching the Grey hue in the Silver's backgound will allow for a more even looking initial application, whether rolling or spraying, and result in the use of less paint per layer to acheive good coverage.

It is an easy thing to do. Purchase the SM
Behr Silver Metallic @ Home Depot; located on the Faux Paint display
It comes in 1 Quart Plastic Jars.


This is the first MAJOR variance. A far better Silver Metallic Faux Paint is to be found at Michaels Arts & Crafts. CeramCoat "Gleems" Silver Metallic #02603 It comes in 8 Oz. Bottles @ $3.99 per It's consistancy and workability is far more "user friendly" than the much thicker Behr SM. You still have to contend with being carefull to use a decent Low nap roller, and practicing with some of the paint on a scrap piece of something is by far the wisest choice. But this Faux paint is less expensive and more forgiving, you can buy a small amount (16 oz.) for very little and get your practicing done.

Have the HD man dip a stir stick into the paint, dry it, then you both find a behr Color strip that comes close to matching or slightly exceeds the depth of Grey apparent in the SM. Using Kilz Interior Latex primer, add the Lamp Black to the mix until your satisfied.

Do as the above suggests, but use the DC/SM and match it to a shade of grey that is slightly less dark.


That's it.

Rolling the primer should be no great effort or require special skills or instructions. Apply it evenly and smoothly, and if it takes three coats to get a surface that shows NO irregularities, that's OK.

Below is a primed wall
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #3 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Mixing up & Applying MississippiMud

De mix........

"All Paints are Flat Latex
1 quart of Behr Deep Base (1300) $8.99
1 quart of Behr Ultra Pure White Flat "Ceiling" $8.99
1 quarts of Behr "White Opal" Perlescence $17.99


Have the Home Depot paint guy mix it all up in a gallon can you purchase separately. You'll probably have to pay for everything before hand, but don't let some recalcitrant employee tell you he can't mix it up. That's plain silly and untrue. Go "Mississippi" on 'em and "Call the manager!"

*I used a “1/96th oz” particle droplet prior and the resulting mix had a definite "pinkish" tint, that however was not present upon application and
drying. Still, for those who would turn aghast at seeing such a thing
before them in the can, or for those with good DLP PJs, reducing the amount by 1/2 ill still result in a vague pink, but believe me, this is nothing if not a good thing when used with a pure silver underlay and LCD PJs, or, omitting it altogether if you have a DLP.


Unless you own a LCD PJ that is over 3 years old, this step should be ommited altogether


The use of a roller is tricky business with a paint as thick as the Silver Metallic. It is far better to lay down several thin coats than to put too much on at once. Also, you must take pains to get the SM evenly applied to the roller, otherwise you will "Flat Spot" the thing, resulting in a 'stair step' like application that is exceedingly difficult to cover up without spot applying paint to the resulting weak areas. This has happened to me just as of late while trying a 18" roller.

To help mollify this problem, I've advocated the "Dry Roller" method. First you evenly load the roller with paint, then using a separate tray, you roll out the excess paint. Then, using a separate piece of material (scrap drywall works best) you them apply it to the scrap until you have deposited at least 1/2 the load remaining on the board. Also, tilt your roller so as to bring the edges into contact with the tray and help squeegee out excess paint from the roller's edge. it is this area of the roller that leaves "roller marks" and by doing as suggested, you can avoid the worst of such happenstance.

Now, using a Roller on a Wand Extension, start at the bottom and roll up wards, applying slightly more pressure than you would normally. Your not trying to cover on this first coat, rather your trying to evenly apply a light base to build on. It takes practice to evenly apply pressure across the roller's surface. That is one of the differences between a Painter and a beginner. Practice makes perfect, and purchasing or acquiring some drywall to practice getting the Dry Roller method down is well worth the small expense.

Still, expect your first coat to look like hell. Plenty of uneven areas and "streaks. as long as there are no ridges of paint from roller marks, or areas with way more paint than others, you've completed the first step.

A good thing to remember is after you have applied several layers onto the spare piece of Drywall, you can use that as a "Palette" to acquire more paint on the Roller as well. Also, as you are spreading the paint onto the wall, you'll find that if your keeping the amount of paint on the roller to a minimum, you can go over areas several times and "fill in" weaker areas without too much problem.

here is a shot of how a First Coat of SM can look. Don't gag.

All of the above still has relevance, but you will find that the new Metallic Silver will spread on with more ease. adjust the above directions according to what you yourself experience.

LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #4 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Things start to look better with a second coat of SM
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #5 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
My intital coat (Dry Rolled) and the 2nd coat of SM ("barely" wet rolled) was applied with a standard sized roller. Below is how they came out. The shot on the right is a Dry example, the left, 10 minutes after rolling.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #6 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Now comes a difficult thing to do. Wet sanding your 2nd coat of SM

If your rolling, by this time you've built up a texture on the wall, even if your using a 3/8" nap Roller (..suggested ) You want the 3rd coat of SM to be as smooth as possible so you must knock down that texture. It won't take much to do so, and using your hand, you can easily feel the difference. Just do the sanding lightly and evenly across the entire surface, wipe clean with a towel, and your ready to apply the third coat of SM.

For my last SM coat, I used a 18" roller. Everything was going swimmingly and the coat was going on fast due to the increased roller area. Greats, until that wide sucker developed a Flat spot. Arrrgh! And me 30 miles from the nearest Home Depot (...and it was 11 pm anyway.) I was determined to finish my 3rd coat, because in no way was I going to leave 1/2 a wall coated and have to come back and try to recoup later.

Sooooo....., I tried to compensate by applying more pressure. because of the paint already on the wall, the big roller just slid along on it's flat spot. Funny thing was, as it slid it evened everything out and produced a very smooth coat. Until it decided to finally roll as the paint on the Roller got sparse. so I jammed a screw into the side of the roller and loaded it with paint on the flat side, and used that puppy like a 18 " mop brush.

Salvation was at hand, though I must say that since I never had such a problem before with 9"rollers when any care was taken, I was kicking myself all the while for trying to save time.

below is the end result. a finish as smooth and as even as any I've done before excepting with a Spray Gun.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #7 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
The shot below is enlarged 200% and shows the final finish of a properly applyed "Rolled' SM coat. You DO NOT wet sand this coat.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #8 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
The scene of the crime.

The perp got away with it this time.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #9 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Ok, now the home stretch lies ahead.

You have your MM Mix at hand. It should look like the shot below. Not the difference between the color in the can and the color on the lid, which is almost dry.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #10 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Roll technique for the Top Coats parallels that which you do for the SM undercoat. MM is very thick. Some have tried using Flotrol to thin the mixture, and some have done all right doing so. I prefer it straight up.

You should also wet sand lightly between the 2nd & 3rd layers of MM Top Coat so as to acquire a very smooth final surface. (see shot after next.)

Getting the correct amount on the wall is the trick Too much, and you've defeated the purpose the Silver Metallic is there for. Too little, and you can see the SM underneath. That is the criteria to judge by. If you can see "silver", it's too thin a coat of MM. Should the silver just barely be apparent after a 2nd coat of un diluted MM, then perhaps thinning the last coat can help make sure you don't over do it.



Below is a composite shot of a 1st and final coat of MM

The area in between the shots is a close up of the finished surface @ 200x
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #11 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Pretty damn smooth.

It is my advice that as much care be taken to effect a smooth, glass-like feel to the final Top Coat as possible. The smooth "flat hued" surface is what is primarily responsible for your getting an even distribution of light across the screen's surface. And angle of reflection imparted by countless little hills and valleys only deflect (refract) light of axis. Multiply this effect over a 8' to 9' diagonal screen, and the edges will most certainly fail to reflect the same amount of light as the center. they will anyway, no matter what you do, but if the difference cannot be ascertained by the eye, that's all that's important.

Below is a highly magnified shot of MM on a smooth surface. the underlaying surface was wet sanded before the final Top Coating was applied. It was taken on Macro, then magnified 400x

It may look bumpy @ 400x, but to the touch it is as slick as a peice of glass
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #12 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
That's about it.

Refinements to these post will be forthcoming in the days to follow.

Any who wish to post queries may do so at this point.

I must dash off to work and the bank now, but a slew of representitive screen shots are to follow.

Advice from the Earl Schiebe School of Baking.

To all those rushing to get their Screens finished for the SuperBowl, the use of a small propane heater will drastically speed things up. Just let the painted surface become tack free (about 30 minutes for MM or SM) then bake that 'Ole screen dry. Keep the distance from the heater to the screen at least the same or 20% greater as the screen width. You should feel confident in applying another coating of paint in just about 3 hours as opposed to the 24 hours time recommended by Behr for SM, and the 12 hours I would recommend otherwise for MM.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #13 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 11:38 AM
Member
 
SensiStar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
The light actually goes through 3 layers of latex paint and then is reflected off the SM layer and back through 3 layers of latex paint? Have you tried just the MM without the SM undercoat to see if there is a difference?
SensiStar is offline  
post #14 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Quote:


Originally posted by SensiStar
The light actually goes through 3 layers of latex paint and then is reflected off the SM layer and back through 3 layers of latex paint? Have you tried just the MM without the SM undercoat to see if there is a difference?

The Translucent nature of the MM ix, as well as putting it on the wall in the right amount allows all the light that should pass through to do so.

As for trying it elsewhere, I've used MM for X1s on top of Kilz primer, and ME lightened by 2/3rds. If your PJ already has great contrast, the SM step isn't necessary, but it sure couldn't hurt.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #15 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 12:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Vlad_Dracule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 1,153
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Those are the shots I was looking for (First/Last coat of MM)!!! The Glidden equivalent is much more opaque which would explain my results. I'll have to make a trip into Winnipeg and grab the necessary paints from HD or possibly add some more Base/Pearlesence to make my mix more transparent.
Vlad_Dracule is offline  
post #16 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 12:22 PM
Member
 
Omzig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Kennewick
Posts: 63
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
MM,
Let me be the first to say thanks for the very thorough post. I think this provides an excellent demonstration of how to recreate your screen exactly. Hopefully you'll not have to answer as many questions since you've provided the most important information up front.

Second, I thought I saw posts comparing this screen to the "Light Fusion" version in the SD/MM Superplex post. It seemed that this screen has some of the benefits of the other screen and is far simpler to create.

Do you think the "Light Fusion" version with either the mirror or SM painted Plexiglas is worth the extra effort for those willing to go the extra mile?

I've got all the supplies so I could try either, but haven't committed to purchasing the large mirror for the final project.

cogito ergo sum
Omzig is offline  
post #17 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 01:11 PM
Advanced Member
 
jsm88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 871
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks MissMan - I may actually try the Miss Mud on top of the lightened ME wall I currently have given that I am using an x1 - per your last comments. Any thoughts on the ambient light tolerence of MM?
jsm88 is offline  
post #18 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 01:26 PM
Member
 
Jedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: USA, MA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Originally posted by MississippiMan
I've used MM for X1s on top of Kilz primer, and ME lightened by 2/3rds. If your PJ already has great contrast, the SM step isn't necessary, but it sure couldn't hurt.

So, what you are saying - for hight contrast pj's like X1 (3200mp in my case) it's better to go with MM LFWS(omit Red Oxide) or strait ME?
Can you use MM to paint a fabric screen types? (need a light removable solution ) Any recomendation for the fabric?
Jedd is offline  
post #19 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Quote:


Originally posted by Omzig
MM,

Second, I thought I saw posts comparing this screen to the "Light Fusion" version in the SD/MM Superplex post. It seemed that this screen has some of the benefits of the other screen and is far simpler to create.

Well, I wouldn't say it's far simpler, since you have to smooth the wall. With the SM, ANY defect shows up like a cannonball hit the surface. I have often stopped after putting the dark Grey primer up because it itself caused defects to stand out due the the increase in contrast. Then, you have to fix it, and then prime that area again.

Then you must apply 2-3 layers of SM, with wet sanding between the second and third coats.

With a SuperDeluxe Light Fusion Mirror Screen, you only have to apply MM top Coat to the Mirror.

As to benefits, a SD/MM LFMS (wow!) gives you a unique effect almost identical to that which you experience when viewing a 35 mm slide as opposed to a flat 35mm print. It appears to be back-lit enough to create much more of a feeling of depth, as well as enhance detail to the extreme.

SM/MM LFWS (Light Fusion Wall Screen ) gives you all the contrast enhancement SD/MM LFMS does, and better detail than most anything else "BUT" SD/MM LFMS It's the "Glow" that LFMS has gets some excited, because it represents a completely different look and appearance in the program content

Quote:



Do you think the "Light Fusion" version with either the mirror or SM painted Plexiglas is worth the extra effort for those willing to go the extra mile?

It's all about preference, and the acceptance of the ideal that if a reflective painted surface like Silver Metallic can produce great results, then a Mirror, with almost 93-94% efficiency in reflecting ability would have to be even better. And it is, most assuredly, but along with it comes other issues such as cost, availability, and the desire to have the best, no matter what.


Quote:



I've got all the supplies so I could try either, but haven't committed to purchasing the large mirror for the final project.

Well, getting you feet wet by applying paint to a stand alone panel would be the safest route to take, although if you use actual "Glass' instead of Plexi, removal of a botched Top coat is as easy as "scrape-scrape-scrape"
But also, the application of Denatured Alcohol on a Plexi mirror and the use of a Plastic scraper will accomplish the same thing.

I look at it this way...if I can get the Plexi mirror, and the size screen I want falls into the realm of available sizes, Plexi it will be.

Here's a composite shot of a Boo Boo getting repaired. This occured on the "Perkins' job, prominently featured in this thread. The issue at hand was a Sheetrock screw that was never set properly. I added another screw, spackled them both TWICE, sanding lightly between each application of spackle, then again before priming first with Kilz, then again with Grey primer.

I've lightened the area around the repair, and enhanced the contrast to let you see the area involved
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #20 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Quote:


Originally posted by Jedd
So, what you are saying - for hight contrast pj's like X1 (3200mp in my case) it's better to go with MM LFWS(omit Red Oxide) or strait ME?
Can you use MM to paint a fabric screen types? (need a light removable solution ) Any recommendation for the fabric?

Me is a defunct paint now IMO. But ME lightened by 1/2 can still be a good alternative for those who want to spend under $20.00 for a screen. You know who you are, ya cheapskates!

The Red Oxide serves to give LCD PJs a boost over their tendency to push into the blue spectrum. For DLPs, attenuating the Red values may or may not be necessary, according to taste.

MM can go up on Blackout Cloth if the material is tightly stretched, and especially if spraying is the application of choice. Otherwise, use a 1/4" nap roller, and the Dry Roller method, but be sure the entire back of the cloth is supported so you can apply the necessary pressure.

Painting on top of Parkland is very doable, but some have tried applying 3 coats of SM and a back coat of matching Grey primer, and shot on the unfinished "dull" side of the Parkland. Results wer excellent, far better than Parkland alone, though not nearly what is gained by SM/MM on a wall.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #21 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Quote:


Originally posted by jsm88
Thanks MissMan - I may actually try the Miss Mud on top of the lightened ME wall I currently have given that I am using an x1 - per your last comments. Any thoughts on the ambient light tolerence of MM?

In the application your considering, I'm sure there would be some improvement over a white wall. but a common misconception is that SD/MM is a High Gain screen. It is not, rather it is a screen that utilizes the light it does recieve far more effecently than an 1.0 gain screen 'appears" to do.

I have found myself that MM can handle a 60 watt bulb burning in a lamp thats placed off axis to screen center, and is just 10 feet away with little ill effects. At that light level, you have no problem reading the TV Guide, punching the right buttons on the Remote, or finding the black lighter you dropped on the floor while coughing. (shame!)

Although the shot below isn't MM on a wall exclusively, it shows me in front of the screen at "perkins" with a 100 watt bulb in a lamp that's only 4 feet from the screen wall, and just 2' from the right of a line dissecting the wallscreen's edge and the table on which the lamp sets. That's damn close for any 100 watt light to be to ANY screen, so make your own judgements.

You can see in the shot how the light is bright enough to illuminate the unfinished area surrounding the screen that's to my left, yet notice how dark the area to my right is.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #22 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 03:12 PM
Advanced Member
 
pochoboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 795
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Mississippi Man,

Thank You,

Using the 'poor man' application of painting that screen with a Roller,
very well done with your step by step explanation/pics!!!
pochoboy is offline  
post #23 of 452 Old 01-29-2004, 03:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Kamel407's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,309
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I sent an email to your homepage contact address.
Let me know if you did/did not get it
Thanks,

Kamel407

Great Work BTW
Kamel407 is offline  
post #24 of 452 Old 01-30-2004, 05:05 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Ok, here is a "gallery of screen shots" of the SM/MM LF screen in action.

I will try to refrain from using "too many" cropped shots, perfering to show what the image looks like to the eye and the camera from at least 14' from the screen's surface. Most seem to prefer that anyway. But expect some, done for effect....and get over it.

Camera: Toshiba M-81 4.2 MP
:settings:
Manual (program mode) Auto White Balance engaged.
3 image Exposure Bracketing utilized; best image posted w/no processing
Stable paltform.( no more "hand held" shots fer me!)

PJ: Studio Experience 2-HD (Sanyo Z2 Clone)
:Settings:
Opened the Box, left it on Factory specs, no tweaking.
Open Iris
Bulb on High.

No ambient light, excepting shots so designated.

Here we go..........with a wide variety of program content, and all your favorite stars.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #25 of 452 Old 01-30-2004, 05:07 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Zorg at work
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #26 of 452 Old 01-30-2004, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Who posts Screen Shots of odd colored scenes? MM does!
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #27 of 452 Old 01-30-2004, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
5th Element shots seem to be popular. You'll find plenty more coming.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #28 of 452 Old 01-30-2004, 05:12 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
..personally, the Eyeball would have been history if he had done this to me.
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #29 of 452 Old 01-30-2004, 05:14 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
...I dunno, are we?
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #30 of 452 Old 01-30-2004, 05:16 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,596
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 200
Leeloo, for your viewing pleasure
LL

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
Reply DIY Screen Section

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off