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post #271 of 1439 Old 07-19-2004, 08:21 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by oldredtop
[b]Newbie lurker here...

Couple of questions...

#1 - What do you guys recommend for lightweight, stable (non warping) material as the screen surface?

#2 - If it is not an "off the shelf item" at HD or Lowe's, where would I look for that kind of material in the Atlanta area?

Thanks in advance.
OldRedtop


If you want a 110" diagonal screen (96" x 54.5") you will have to either special order a piece of 5' x 10' Parkland Plastic "Polywall" sheet, and cut it to size ($80.00 @ http:www.parklandplastics.com )

Building a rigid Black Out frame and supporting the Parkland within it is all that's needed.

But at that price & size, your just a short hop into a $97.00 piece of 5' x 8' sheet of Mirrored Plastic (ie: Light Fusion ) ...and Brother, as good as Silver Screen is, Light Fusion is...., well, Light Fusion!

Another viable option, if possible, is to use your wall itself. Less limitations on size, no need for a trip to HD or Lowes, and you probably have it already paid for. Only the prep-work such as smoothing and priming needs to be done. In my experience, individuals are amazed over mirrored Light Fusion, but are Flabbergasted that a mere "Wall" can become a great screen".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #272 of 1439 Old 07-19-2004, 08:52 AM
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Thanks MM.

I'll take a look into Parkland. I'm sure LF is superior, but since this is my first venture into front projection, I think I need something simple to apply like the the SS/POC to practice with.

If I am missing something in my logic, I am here to be enlightened.

Thanks.


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post #273 of 1439 Old 07-19-2004, 09:44 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by ToddMcF2002
I figured you wouldnt be too pleased with the hardboard. Whatever you do, keep it out of humidity! One of my sample boards looks like a "C" now.

Please do keep us posted on your progress!


Yeah I'm kinda hesitant to paint the hardboard now, don't want to waste the paint if it ends up being too heavy. That way, I only waste 16 bucks instaed of 50.

The don't have Parkland at my HD, maybe we don't get it in Canada. They do have a similar product, basically a 4x8 sheet of corrugated plastic sign material. It isn't white, more of a translucent color, good and stiff though. I would have got it, but it didn't seem to be all that smooth, you can kind of feel the ridges of the corrugated middle.

I suppose the lighest alternative would be BO fabric, but would be coslty and time consuming compared to a hard 'canvas' to piant.

I may go back and compare the weight of the 1/8 inch hardboard and the plastic material. I should also check Kent Building supplies (HD clone)

Mark
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post #274 of 1439 Old 07-19-2004, 11:20 AM
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To prevent warping you gents might try priming both sides of the board - much warping can be attributed to the moistening effect of the latex paint on the wood.

ted
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post #275 of 1439 Old 07-23-2004, 11:32 PM
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Do you apply primer prior to painting?
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post #276 of 1439 Old 07-24-2004, 04:39 AM
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I primed mine with Klitz II with Silver Screen pigments added
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post #277 of 1439 Old 07-24-2004, 05:39 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by RalphArch
I primed mine with Klitz II with Silver Screen pigments added

A desirable and intelligent course of action, moreover one that is specifically suggested as the diffinitive and precise procedure fortowhich one should emulate.



"So do like he did."

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #278 of 1439 Old 07-24-2004, 06:39 AM
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Good answer. Thank you.
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post #279 of 1439 Old 07-24-2004, 09:49 AM
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I posted this mixture on my other thread but it seemed relevant to this conversation to.

As this is my first screen I'm just messing around waiting for my funds to arrive for my PJ, so me screen is layered like this....

3:1 SS:WOP over
3:1 SS:WOP over
ME\\flotex over
Bright white 'gripper' primer over
PP
Mounted on 1" rigid polystyrene foam

No idea what I'm doing but seems like it should be nice enough until I can afford to go LF.

Joel

Too many toys, not enough time.
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post #280 of 1439 Old 07-24-2004, 03:31 PM
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Mixing the ME tint components into the primer should have sufficed.

...............but you sure couldn't have hurt anything.

keep us Posted with a Post.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #281 of 1439 Old 07-27-2004, 08:31 AM
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OK guys, help me out here! What does WOP stand for. I've made a trial screen with SS and like it more than my PP screen. I want to try the WOP with the SS before I make a decision but I don't know what it is.
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post #282 of 1439 Old 07-27-2004, 09:15 AM
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It stands for White Opal Pearlescence I think - it's a pre mixed paint by Glidden that comes in a plastic jar and runs about $17 for a pint at Home Depot.

Joel

Too many toys, not enough time.
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post #283 of 1439 Old 07-27-2004, 10:03 AM
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Actually WOP is made by Behr.
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post #284 of 1439 Old 07-27-2004, 10:48 AM
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Thanks. It's off to Home Depot
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post #285 of 1439 Old 07-28-2004, 09:46 AM
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OK,

Fresh off my Goo sample experience - I think they are on to something. Their sample is plenty bright for a light grey screen but the blacks are kind of lame.

How would I go about boosting the reflective properties of SSWOP without outright mixing it with the ultra pricy Goo?

WOP alone doesnt seem to get me all the way there. Is there a white metallic I can add? A clear glaze? Sacrifice some chickens?
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post #286 of 1439 Old 07-28-2004, 11:49 AM
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chickens didn't work, don't go there
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post #287 of 1439 Old 07-28-2004, 12:12 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by ToddMcF2002
[b]OK,

How would I go about boosting the reflective properties of SSWOP without outright mixing it with the ultra pricy Goo?


Todd,
Adding Goo to your SSWOP mix would be much like adding Deep Base w/ 1/3 rd WOP and work to dilute the very properties of the Gray/Silver to almost inconsequential levels.

Goo formulas depend on their Base Coats every bit as much as they do the Top coats. Layering of some type is the only way known so far to enjoy the qualities of both reflectivity AND good contrast.

Why mix an expensive product like Goo when it's cheaper MMud clone does exactly the same thing. better in fact, because you can paint a wall with MMud alone and achieve a great Bright White Screen of over 1.3 gain and the ability to present Blacks that are as good as the PJ itself can put out.

The desire for high reflectivity from any Gray product is almost an oxymoronic approach. If you do achieve it, it's because the surface is truly too reflective for normal applications, requiring Curved screens, reduced lumens (...who wants that?) restricted viewing angles...etc.

You need to just focus on mirror Light Fusion done using the recommended MMud with pure SS added instead of Deep Base (#1), or go with1/3rd Silver Metallic instead of the UPW (#2) or...gasp..., 1/2 Bombidil Gray, 1/4 Deep Base, 1/4 WOP (#3)

With #1 you'll have you increase of reflectivity in the Top coat, and be able to depend on the mirror behind to help light up the image.

#2 will give you even more actual honest to goodness reflectivity maybe too much?

#3 will give you DeeeeeeeP Blacks, plenty of reflectivity, and hopefully, with Tom's BGrays' color neutrality, whites almost as brilliant as true MMud Light Fusion.

Which by the way offer Blacks that are blacker per any PJ's abilities than any other "White" or "pink" screen I've ever seen. And I've seen a bunch.

Here are the designated names for future reference.

(#1) Ultra High Contrast Light Fusion.
(#2) Silver Pearl Light Fusion.
(#3) Black Pearl Light Fusion. (aka CMRA's dream mix)

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #288 of 1439 Old 07-28-2004, 12:36 PM
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MississippiMan, can you point me to more information about #3? Is it a mix of paints or is it more complex than that?
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post #289 of 1439 Old 07-29-2004, 05:04 AM
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In a fit of frustration I tried a woeful mixture last night.

25% Silver Metallic
25% White Opal Pearlescent
50% Ultra Pure White

In short - it came out gray. Looked and performed about the same as SSWOP. More cost, no real improvement.

I also tried Misty Evening. It was again about the same as SSWOP only slightly darker.

I then tried my FireHawk sample. Holy cow. Talk about what I'm trying to achieve with paints. Excellent blacks, punchy colors, great whites, cost a F*cking arm and a leg. But man, what a nice material. Dark Silver.

Clearly, I've got to figure out how to make a reflective Silver. The FireHawk is the key. Honestly I didnt want to like it - but its that good.

I hear what your saying MMan. Maybe the mirror behind a SilverScreen-esque MMud will get me there. I'm on it!
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post #290 of 1439 Old 07-29-2004, 10:56 AM
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Hey I've never posted before but I've read countless post about different DIY Screens. I tried the SS/WOP combo and the SS but they both didn't do it for me. I guess I need to find something that will bring out more of the whites. I did my experiment on a piece of drywall with gripper primer. I section off 3 places and painted them with SS/WOP 3-1, SS and UPW but I didn't like the way it looked. I was wondering if anybody can shed a little light to help me out. I have the Mitsubishi LD300u that has 2500 lumes. I haven't seen to many people post about this projector. But if anyone can help I'd appreciate it.
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post #291 of 1439 Old 07-29-2004, 05:07 PM
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I just did the SSWOP thing about a week ago. Prior to that, I was using plain old grey primer that I used on the screen wall prior to painting the rest of the wall flat black (yes, I know - it's not the best solution around, but it worked ok until I knew better...).

The SSWOP is quite an improvement over the grey primer. I mixed it at about 75% SS and 25% WOP. For about $30, I have an acceptable 4:3 screen at 8 1/2 feet wide.

This is probably going to be the end of the line for me screen-wise with my current PJ. It's a Plus Piano HE3100 that only puts out 450 lumens, manual focus, and no zoom. The optics also leave a little something to be desired. But, given that I paid $1800 for it when most other DLP PJ's were selling for $2500+, I'm happy for the time being.

Thanks a ton to all for putting the info about the SSWOP mix out here.

Best regards,

Dwight
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post #292 of 1439 Old 08-01-2004, 10:32 AM
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I am going to give this a try. I tried the other paint that was recommended once and I don't think Home Depot got it right. If it is even a little off (favoring one color or another) screws up the color in a noticable way.

In this case, my greens looked a little like browns and my yellow looked a little bit like greens.

I then went out and used flat white paint, and it works fine except white colors seem to run past the borders and it can get realy annoying.

Can't wait to give this a shot.
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post #293 of 1439 Old 08-02-2004, 04:38 AM
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I've been playing with lightening this thing up a bit - adding more Ultra Pure White to the mix.

I've also tried Misty Evening in this ratio:

4 Oz Misty Evening
6 Oz Ultra Pure White
4 Oz White Opal Pearlescent

This mix has much better whites (less crushed) and pretty much the same black level enhancement.

I'm going to try one more sample boosting the white further.
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post #294 of 1439 Old 08-02-2004, 07:06 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by ToddMcF2002
I've been playing with lightening this thing up a bit - adding more Ultra Pure White to the mix.

I'm going to try one more sample boosting the white further.

Todd, I found the straight SS also needed "lightening up". I had a quart of UPW mixed with 4/48's lamp black and just 2/48's of raw umber and no red oxide (Bombadil Gray). The screen is a lot more natural looking now and certainly brighter. Much improved whites and colours with good blacks and contrast A nice improvement from SS.

I am thinking of trying this mix on a test board with 10% to 20% WOP but, maybe increasing the LB back to 5/48's.
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post #295 of 1439 Old 08-02-2004, 07:25 AM
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Definately more natural.

I decided over the weekend to meet the paint "half way".

So on my BenQ I notched up my contrast 1 level - which didnt have any adverse affect on detail and dropped the color tempature to 0. On a white wall, that boosted black levels significantly.

Misty Evening pushes Blues/Greens so I dropped Green down 2 levels. The end result is positive, but I could still stand to lighten it up a bit more and keep the blacks.

This doesnt approach Firehawk levels for blacks, but the picture is definately an improvement.

Regarding the SilverScreen, the other alternative is just to pick up Silverscreen's lighter cousin - I forget the name of it though. Then mix in 30% WOP.
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post #296 of 1439 Old 08-02-2004, 10:59 AM
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I have been reading this thread and need some help!

I had been using PP with my Optoma H30 with great results, but OF COURSE if there may be something better, GOTTA try it, right? So I did the Goo Digital Grey Basecoat with the Digital Lite topcoat and- long story short- did a lousy job with the roller and it is not a very good screen. I have dark streaks and light streaks and the improvement is minor to say the least. Blacks are only slightly better, so I obviously did this poorly.

BUT THAT WON'T STOP ME FROM TRYING AGAIN!

I'm a doer, gosh-dangit!

So- I am intrigued by two screen ideas and would love feedback.

Those shots of MississippiMan's SM/MM screens were outstanding, I thought! Would that be a good option?

ALSO- the SSWOP screen looks promising and cheap. I'd like to do these on PP.

Any other suggestions? I have total light control and have about an 89" screen. I WILL post screenies- but I need help!

Plus, the wife is already mocking my first attempt.

Save me from myself.

Ryan
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post #297 of 1439 Old 08-02-2004, 11:43 AM
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Goo is pretty expensive to get wrong. In addition, my testing showed it really did nothing for black levels. The SM/MM mix is even easier to screw up frankly, just not as expensive.

I'm sure MM will suggest a mirror Light Fusion over SM/MM. My tests showed me that SM/MM wasnt significantly different than white - at least in my environment. The SM just isn't reflective enough. Try a mirror!

The SSWOP is promising for sure - I'd like to lighten it up a bit though. Much easier to get right too - since the Pearlescent really is minimal and a flat paint is pretty easy to roll.
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post #298 of 1439 Old 08-02-2004, 01:14 PM
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I was leaning toward the SSWOP just because I know I can do that right and it seems like a great inexpensive upgrade from the matte white PP.

Light fusion sounds very promising, but I'd prefer not to tackle such a project just yet- the wife would not approve thus far.

I will try the SSWOP with 30% WOP and see what happens- but I would love to make a LF screen using plexiglass. Sounds awfully heavy, though...
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post #299 of 1439 Old 08-02-2004, 01:17 PM
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Also- is there a way to fix my messed up PP/Goo debacle? Something I can paint over it? Anything...?
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post #300 of 1439 Old 08-02-2004, 03:05 PM
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Are you guys mixing by hand or through a mixing machine at Lowe's or Home Depot?

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