Behr "Silverscreen" Paint - Page 19 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #541 of 1439 Old 04-07-2005, 04:18 PM
Senior Member
 
T_MINTON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: CICERO, INDIANA
Posts: 255
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
OH did we hijack his thread??? lol sorry B.. I will give a report by the weekend...


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
T_MINTON is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #542 of 1439 Old 04-11-2005, 07:22 AM
Member
 
VideoDrone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I love my Behr Silverscreen on Drywall for my X1. Contrasts are great. Even SD material shines.

AV since 1980
VideoDrone is offline  
post #543 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 01:10 AM
Newbie
 
waysid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi, sorry if this is a total newbie question but I have spent the last few hours reading this thread and still not totally sure about the following.
Do I need to use any sort of primer on a blackout screen before I paint it with SilverScreen? If it makes any difference I am using a Hitachi Home 1 LCD projector and I am hoping to improve my blacks without sacrificing too much brightness.

Just thought of one more question so I thought I would add it: how does the gain of an SS screen ( assume no primer for now ) compare to that of just straight blackout cloth?

Thanks
Chris
waysid is offline  
post #544 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 11:46 AM
AVS Special Member
 
1Time's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,716
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I would paint a gray primer and then a coat of SS or skip the primer and paint two coats of SS. The gain should be about the same.
1Time is offline  
post #545 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 11:52 AM
Newbie
 
waysid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the response 1Time. If I did want it to boost the gain a little is there any simple process or tweak to do this, that wouldn't undo the better contrast the SilverScreen should provide. I am trying to achieve a really cheap solution so I don't really want to go the MMud route. It doesn't have to be perfect just better than the plain black out cloth.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
waysid is offline  
post #546 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 12:10 PM
AVS Special Member
 
1Time's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,716
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Can't think of anything that's been done. If I wanted to experiment, I'd try a gray primer, then spray paint HHS (do a search on AVS), and a roll a thin coat of SS. Gotta run now.
1Time is offline  
post #547 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 01:42 PM
Senior Member
 
chengka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 328
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
To get gain from grey you need a top coating, HCCV and Firefox are coated. If you think SS is too dark, try diluting it or search for Bombadil grey. Your blacks won't be as dark, but neither will your whites. Lot's of people are happy with SS, so try it. At $9/quart you aren't risking a lot .
chengka is offline  
post #548 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 02:01 PM
Newbie
 
waysid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the help. I may try the experiment 1Time suggests if I can find cheap HHS ( Tremclad High Heat Enamel - Aluminum? ). And if that doesn't work out I can just layer some more SS and make do with that.
waysid is offline  
post #549 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 05:38 PM
AVS Special Member
 
1Time's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,716
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Originally posted by waysid
Thanks for the help. I may try the experiment 1Time suggests if I can find cheap HHS ( Tremclad High Heat Enamel - Aluminum? ). And if that doesn't work out I can just layer some more SS and make do with that.

HHS is high heat silver. I have a can of it and am itching to try it out. Sorry, I was in a hurry when I posted that. I meant to suggest spraying the aluminum. Also, if not using the aluminum, it might help to use a white primer instead of gray with one coat of SS.
1Time is offline  
post #550 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 06:40 PM
Newbie
 
kkpatel3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am 24 to 48 hours away from having my home theater wall painted by a contractor (since I am not good at this stuff). After having read almost all of the pages under the DIY Screen, the conclusions are:

Equip: Mitsubishi XD400U (HDTV+DLP, 2000 Lumens, 2100 Contrast Ratio)
Environ: Non-Walk out basement
Seating: 28 feet from the 144" Screen
Lighting: Dimmer based lights

1. Buy 1 Gallon of SS at HomeDepot > DONE

2. Buy 1 Quart of WOP at HomeDepot > DONE

3. Mix the two in a ratio of 4:1

4. Have a really flat drywall (with metal studs) ready with a Zinsser Primer > DONE

5. Paint Coat 1 of the mixed paint

6. Wet sand it lightly to get all the 'bumps' created

7. Leave it to dry for 12+ hours

8. Paint Coat 2 of the mixed paint

9. Wet sand it lightly to get all the minor bumps and any roller fur created

10. Paint a light coat of Coat 3 of the mixed paint

11. Enjoy

I have gained a lot of knowledge about how 'many' approaches work for a DIY Screen. But for me it is an out-sourced DIY model (done with the contractor) who is almost finished with the basement. Like bcortez says, this is only a start, but for me, it will be something that will be around for more than 2-4 years. That is why I need to get it done right.

I am sure that in all of the varied opinions I've read, some of you have improvements to the above steps (such as do not use WOP, but use this "x", or do not ever do wet sanding etc).

*Would you guys really be kind enough to modify the above steps (cut paste the above 10 steps) and give me your version, with the reasoning + experiences.

I am sure that this post will help many newbies like myself coming and asking similar questions.

Thank you so much.

Kenny
kkpatel3 is offline  
post #551 of 1439 Old 04-14-2005, 08:42 PM
Member
 
falconsforge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 29
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Trying to convert this to litres and millilitres so i can try this in Australia, a litre is pretty close on a quart and there are 30 mills to an ounce. So if its 4\\48 to a quart of one tint 30 divided by 48 x 4 gives me about 2.5 mill. Does that sound about right?
alan
falconsforge is offline  
post #552 of 1439 Old 04-15-2005, 02:58 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
Quote:


Originally posted by kkpatel3
I am 24 to 48 hours away from having my home theater wall painted by a contractor (since I am not good at this stuff). After having read almost all of the pages under the DIY Screen, the conclusions are:

Equip: Mitsubishi XD400U (HDTV+DLP, 2000 Lumens, 2100 Contrast Ratio)
Environ: Non-Walk out basement
Seating: 28 feet from the 144" Screen
Lighting: Dimmer based lights

Kenny

Kenny,

You have 2000 lumens going for you. I WOULD NOT recommend the use of the WOP on that 144"er Besides that, the SS is a hodgepodge of tints, so in your case, the mix might not even allow the WOP to do what it does best without the mixture skewing the overall results. One should note that when WOP is used in MMud, it's being mixed with WHITE & TRANSLUCENT paints, not as part of a drastically tinted mix. When I mix SM into MMud, it is in very small amounts...far less than 25% of the mix.

The SS alone should be tried first. Another top coat of an adjusted mix can always be tried later.

Personally, with that quality of a PJ, I think your making a mistake not going for a 1:1:1 MMud mix with 2 Oz SM added. That has been proven 'workable' with up to 2600 luumens @ 140" diagonal.

SS is a paint option primarily suited for a beginner DIY'er with a PJ that needs definite CR enhancement. At 2100:1, the Mitsi doesn't fall into that category.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is online now  
post #553 of 1439 Old 04-15-2005, 04:00 AM
AVS Special Member
 
1Time's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,716
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've tried a 3:1 ratio of SS + WOP and saw no benefit over SS alone. I would sooner recommend UPW for a simple solution or even better do as MMan advised.
1Time is offline  
post #554 of 1439 Old 04-15-2005, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bcortez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 257
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
johnstof and chengka,

If you are looking to do any non-SilverScreen paint, could you please take that disussion off this list? I'd would appreciate this list staying on-the-topic of Behr SS. Too many times in the past, a thread spiraled off into numerous pages of irrelevant discussion. This makes a newcomer discouraged in reading more pages. I may sound a bit anal about this, but I'm just trying to make it more relevant to those looking to find valuable info in less time.

Thanks

Owner of the Tavern Theater(R) Pub.
"Where homebrew is always on tap"
bcortez is offline  
post #555 of 1439 Old 04-15-2005, 06:26 PM
Newbie
 
kkpatel3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks so much guys. I owe you guys major feedback from the project.

MM, you said that I should use a ratio of 1:1:1 MMud mix with 2 Oz SM added. That has been proven 'workable' with up to 2600 luumens @ 140" diagonal.

Questions:
-------------
You seem to have three paints here. Can you tell me what MMud is, where I can buy it (Home Depot?) and what is SM (Silver Metallic?) and what is the third paint?

Do I paid Behr Silver Screen as my 2nd coat primer on the top of the Zinsser primer that is already on the wall since I already bought the SS paint?

How many coats, will a 1/4" nap roller work, what kind of sanding in-between and how much drying time in between?

Sorry, I am new to this, but I am sure that a lot of folks are going to benefit from these answers.

Thank you so much.

Kenny
kkpatel3 is offline  
post #556 of 1439 Old 04-17-2005, 03:50 PM
Newbie
 
kkpatel3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have figured out what MMud is from this forum itself, but it has not been discussed recently.

I have the mixture of the paints as MM suggested (MMud + SM mixed by HomeDepot), and will move into the paint stage on Mon/Tue (got delayed since we were still doing the molding work).

I will report back with how the multi-step process goes.

Thanks.

Kenny
kkpatel3 is offline  
post #557 of 1439 Old 04-17-2005, 04:19 PM
Senior Member
 
T_MINTON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: CICERO, INDIANA
Posts: 255
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
If you are looking to do any non-SilverScreen paint, could you please take that disussion off this list? I'd would appreciate this list staying on-the-topic of Behr SS. Too many times in the past, a thread spiraled off into numerous pages of irrelevant discussion. This makes a newcomer discouraged in reading more pages. I may sound a bit anal about this, but I'm just trying to make it more relevant to those looking to find valuable info in less time.

Try the mud threads.. This thread is for SILVERSCREEN


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
T_MINTON is offline  
post #558 of 1439 Old 04-18-2005, 12:49 PM
Member
 
BusyHands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Southwest
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Am I missing something? I went to the HD Saturday and bought two quarts of SilverScreen and one of Opal White Pearlescent. The intent was to try SS alone, SS mixed 3:1 with OWP, and SS under OWP. I'm currently using large sheets of foamcore for my screen, as we want something that's portable (read: can hide it when not viewing) and I had some on hand.

So, I started painting the foamcore. The SS alone was very satisfying. Colors really pop, whites are still white enough to my eye, and the blacks are much darker. So far, so good.

Next phase: overcoat half the screen with OWP and see if it brings back the edge the SS knocked off the whites.

So, I looked at the mixture printed on the OWP can label and it says
Ultra Pure White
Lamp Black
Exterior Re[d?]

The sample drop on the lid just looks like flat white with a little beige in it. And they only charged me $7.98 for the quart. I'm getting suspicious now.

So, here's my question: Did I get the wrong paint? I had the impression, from the discussions of sparkle zones and boosted whites, that this stuff was some kind of translucent carrier with reflective particles in it. In reviewing the notes I've accumulated while reading the forums, I see that references to "Opal White Pearlescent" as well as "White Opal Pearlescent".

Did I get the wrong stuff? What should WOP look like?

Thanks for helping a newbie! I'm really pleased with the HT experience, so far, and am looking forward to summer movies outdoors with the neighbors.

Cherry Hills Driveway Theater
BusyHands is offline  
post #559 of 1439 Old 04-18-2005, 01:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
1Time's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,716
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Behr White Opal Perlescent no. 751 (WOP) is the right one.

WOP = OWP with the letters reversed

I saw no benefit from mixing SS with WOP.

You might benefit from having a thin coat of SS over WOP, but WOP as a top coat probably won't work well.
1Time is offline  
post #560 of 1439 Old 04-18-2005, 03:00 PM
Member
 
BusyHands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Southwest
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks 1Time. I'll skip the mixing experiment. The famous MMud mixes WOP and it seems to have some big fans, so it must do something with someone's projector.

A couple of different people have written about the benefits of overcoating with WOP. When I asked for "Opal White Pearlescence", they mixed something right up for me, so there must be a color with that name, as well. Beware the difference, if WOP is what you're looking for.

Next up: painting a 4x7 sheet of extruded styrene for a backyard screen.

Cherry Hills Driveway Theater
BusyHands is offline  
post #561 of 1439 Old 04-18-2005, 03:38 PM
Member
 
Bolero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 88
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
WOP is not a mixed paint, but rather one of the "Faux Paints" found in that the Faux Paints display rather put together by one of the HD employees. The container it comes in is a 1 qt. plastic container with a screw on lid, not the traditional metal can with the metal lid. The actual WOP paint is certainly pearlescent. It is not quite white but does look like a liquid pearl. When mixed with other paints, it adds a small amount of gain due to the reflective glow of the pearlescence. I don't know if that additional gain would be added if you mixed WOP with Silverscreen.
Bolero is offline  
post #562 of 1439 Old 04-18-2005, 03:47 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HuskerHarley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lincoln,Neb
Posts: 1,462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm wearing a flameproof suit, so I'm prepared for all of the flak that I should receive for asking the following questions... but I've read so many threads and then discovered this one.

I just don't have the brain cells left to read this entire thread!

I want to build a 92 inch screen.

So just pretend I'm a little kid and write me a note that I can take to the store and return with everything required.

I also need another note with instructions how to build this thing.

I was going to build one of the aluminum framed screens but I'd rather construct what the participants of this thread have found works out best.

I don't want to use the wall.

HH
HuskerHarley is offline  
post #563 of 1439 Old 04-18-2005, 05:04 PM
Member
 
BusyHands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Southwest
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Man, this is going to be good. I've been reading these forums intensely for the last month (since I got my projector) and have come to only one conclusion: there are about 700 different answers to the question.

Here's a list of the questions I think you have to answer before you can narrow down your options to only 50:

How big do you want it?

Can it be permanently installed or should it be retractable/removeable?

How much light will your PJ put out? What's the contrast ratio?

How much can you control the light in the room (that means ambient as well as reflected from light walls/ceiling)?

How much can you spend?

But to answer your question: get a 4' x 8' sheet of extruded styrene insulation board (~ $15). Cut it down to 7'1". Using a 1/4" nap roller, paint it with Behr Ultra Pure White (~ $10/qt). Then, paint it with Behr Silverscreen (~ $10/qt). Put a border of black velvet (or velcro) around it and hang it up. That's about as simple as you can get. It's not perfect, but it's simple.

I'm surprised by your 842 posts combined with your request for a dead simple answer to a seemingly complex topic. What have you been reading and writing about all this time?

Cherry Hills Driveway Theater
BusyHands is offline  
post #564 of 1439 Old 04-18-2005, 05:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HuskerHarley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lincoln,Neb
Posts: 1,462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
How big do you want it?::::92"

Can it be permanently installed or should it be retractable/removeable?:::: permanently

How much light will your PJ put out? What's the contrast ratio?:::: IF 4805 (says 2000-1 but)

How much can you control the light in the room (that means ambient as well as reflected from light walls/ceiling)? ::::No Windows Total control

How much can you spend?:::: .01-500.00

But to answer your question: get a 4' x 8' sheet of extruded styrene insulation board (~ $15). Cut it down to 7'1". Using a 1/4" nap roller, paint it with Behr Ultra Pure White (~ $10/qt). Then, paint it with Behr Silverscreen (~ $10/qt). Put a border of black velvet (or velcro) around it and hang it up. That's about as simple as you can get. It's not perfect, but it's simple.

I'm surprised by your 842 posts combined with your request for a dead simple answer to a seemingly complex topic. What have you been reading and writing about all this time?:::Not anything to do with FPJ's

HH
HuskerHarley is offline  
post #565 of 1439 Old 04-20-2005, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bcortez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 257
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:


Originally posted by HuskerHarley
I'm wearing a flameproof suit, so I'm prepared for all of the flak that I should receive for asking the following questions... but I've read so many threads and then discovered this one.

I just don't have the brain cells left to read this entire thread!

I want to build a 92 inch screen.

So just pretend I'm a little kid and write me a note that I can take to the store and return with everything required.

I also need another note with instructions how to build this thing.

I was going to build one of the aluminum framed screens but I'd rather construct what the participants of this thread have found works out best.

I don't want to use the wall.

HH

Answer: See post #1 of this thread. It describes what I used and did to create my screen. The only thing not there (yet) is the framing and velvet border.

Owner of the Tavern Theater(R) Pub.
"Where homebrew is always on tap"
bcortez is offline  
post #566 of 1439 Old 04-21-2005, 03:42 PM
Newbie
 
kkpatel3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks a million to MM for directing me to do this. Here is the conclusion:

I took the recommendation that MM gave me above with some slight modiciations.

1. Started with Zinsser as the base primer/sealer on a new drywall.

2. Painted over it with one coat of SS to get the grey background with 1/4" nap roller.

3. Sanded it down to eliminate the beads that happen naturally.

4. Got the first coat of MMud + 2 Oz of SM with 1/4" nap roller

5. Looked white + grey so we knew we needed coat number 2.

6. Let the first coat dry for more than 24 hours.

7. Got the 2nd coat yesterday with an "additional 2 oz of SM" added (modification from MM's formula since I wanted to make it more grey), and now it looks great. I do not see a need for coat number three or wet sanding since it is very flat. There is white crown molding over it that also got installed, and you can definitely tell that is now in between the SS (Grey) and the Semi-Gloss Ultra White Crown Molding (Pure White).

8. Projected Vin's XXX movie on the screen using a S-Video output (not the best) and it looked great. Whites, Blue, Black, Greys, Colors etc were amazing.

9. Then finally did something unique> Projected a few still presentations of homes, bright and dark pictures, and then the color pallette of a Powerpoint slide (when one tries to create a text slide) to see how the colors and the white/black shades appear, and that is where I saw the proof that White is Pure White, and Black is pure Black. Of course, the colors looked great too. This point 9 is ultimate low-tech proving point for anyone who does not understand 'relective power/gains' and other qualitative measurement terms of the projection business. I am sure such a screen can also be brought up from within the projector for color/contrast adjustments.

So, there you have it. My trial from all your research yielded me great results, and it is a big thanks to all of you, especially MM. I am sure that a year from now, there will be better answers, but for making a screen of this quality for less than $100 of materials, and $200 to get it painted (from a contractor) was absolutely worth every penny. And, I can afford to redo it when new answers a year from now!!!!!!

If there any questions, please feel free to post a note here, and I will do my best to provide my feedback.

Thanks a million guys.

Kenny
kkpatel3 is offline  
post #567 of 1439 Old 04-22-2005, 03:46 PM
Advanced Member
 
shankar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Posts: 739
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally posted by kkpatel3


So, there you have it. My trial from all your research yielded me great results, and it is a big thanks to all of you, especially MM. I am sure that a year from now, there will be better answers, but for making a screen of this quality for less than $100 of materials, and $200 to get it painted (from a contractor) was absolutely worth every penny. And, I can afford to redo it when new answers a year from now!!!!!!

Kenny

Kenny,

So, how does your screen compare (size, image, color etc) with a $300 commercial screen ??

Shankar
shankar is offline  
post #568 of 1439 Old 04-22-2005, 08:34 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HuskerHarley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lincoln,Neb
Posts: 1,462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Originally posted by BusyHands
Man, this is going to be good. I've been reading these forums intensely for the last month (since I got my projector) and have come to only one conclusion: there are about 700 different answers to the question.

Here's a list of the questions I think you have to answer before you can narrow down your options to only 50:

How big do you want it?

Can it be permanently installed or should it be retractable/removeable?

How much light will your PJ put out? What's the contrast ratio?

How much can you control the light in the room (that means ambient as well as reflected from light walls/ceiling)?

How much can you spend?

But to answer your question: get a 4' x 8' sheet of extruded styrene insulation board (~ $15). Cut it down to 7'1". Using a 1/4" nap roller, paint it with Behr Ultra Pure White (~ $10/qt). Then, paint it with Behr Silverscreen (~ $10/qt). Put a border of black velvet (or velcro) around it and hang it up. That's about as simple as you can get. It's not perfect, but it's simple.

I'm surprised by your 842 posts combined with your request for a dead simple answer to a seemingly complex topic. What have you been reading and writing about all this time?

Well I answered your questions including the one where you tried to slam/embarrass me...

HH
HuskerHarley is offline  
post #569 of 1439 Old 04-22-2005, 09:02 PM
Member
 
BusyHands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Southwest
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
HH, It wasn't meant as a slam or to embarass you. I apologize if it came off agressive. I was just amazed that you have that much experience on the board. I'm a newbie here, as you can tell, but I have been reading the DIY screen topics (here and on hometheaterforum) for the last month or so.

I think bcortez answered your question, as did I. I'm not the expert, but since there don't seem to be lots of other answers, I'll give it a shot. The data you provided might change your choice between gray or white. Your PJ puts out a lot of lumens, so the gray should work well, but in a totally light-controlled room, you don't necessarily need the ambient light rejection a gray screen provides.

From my reading, though, I have determined that there are a hundred variations, and they all seem to work pretty well. I have yet to see more than one or two people claim that any solution is THE solution. That's what I meant by "this should be good": I expected dozens of entries giving you alternative experiences. Oh, well.

Here's what I've tried: on the wall (color shift and a little too glossy). White 1/4" foamcore (great color, slight hot-spotting, bad tendency to warp). Foamcore painted with Behr Silverscreen paint, flat black paint surround (much darker blacks, little change in whites, excellent results for about $15, except for the warping). 36x48 pre-stretched artist's canvas painted with two coats SS (same color quality as the foamcore, more rigidity, excellent results for about $30).

Here are the basics: you want a fairly smooth surface on which to paint, and you want a dead flat paint to kill hotspots. With a dark room and a PJ with high contrast, you could just go with flat white paint, and since your PJ is a bright one, SS would give you even better blacks. It's a toss-up, I'd guess.

You can use foamcore (frame or reinforce it, or just attach it to the wall), Gatorboard (foamcore with a harder surface, resists warping), wallboard (some people paint right on the wall). You can stretch fabric (curtain lining "blackout cloth" is a favorite) over a frame (wood, aluminum). You can also buy screen material from many commercial sources.

You can try what I did, or what bcortez or kpatel3 did -- they all work well. You can just paint a rectangle on your wall with SS and outline it with flat black. You can hunt down the forum topics on making aluminum frames and attaching blackout cloth. They all seem to work really well, as well as commercial screens do, according to a lot of people. You are going to have to make some choices, because there's not one single right way. Good luck!

Cherry Hills Driveway Theater
BusyHands is offline  
post #570 of 1439 Old 04-22-2005, 09:08 PM
Newbie
 
kkpatel3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Shankar, based on any comparisons to screens, the output here is phenomenal.

It is a whitish-grey screen, which can be seen in a direct contrast to the white-semi-gloss crown-molding over the screen area.

It simply gives a high quality image, almost 100X better than a 40" low-cost screen that I bought just to do a comparison.

In addition, there are no kinks since the wall was built with metal 2x4 behind it, and a lot of care taken to built a totally flat dry-wall surface with no bends, curves etc.

So, there you have it.

Thanks.

Kenny
kkpatel3 is offline  
Reply DIY Screen Section

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off