Behr "Silverscreen" Paint - Page 48 - AVS Forum
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post #1411 of 1439 Old 12-11-2012, 04:20 PM
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Wow I wish people would stop using this as a screen paint!
Just because it's called "SilverScreen" doesn't mean it was ever meant to be a screen.

I don't believe SS is a 90% solution to a good screen - sorry to disagree with you MM.
I'm all for helping people out in the DIY forums and anyone recommending SS to anyone, is not helping.
I've said it before, you would be better off projecting against bare drywall......not being a smart @ss, just stating a fact.

If you want a screen that is grey and more neutral there are much better 1 step solutions. SS is not that neutral and is WAY too dark for any PJ.
I don't care what you have, no one needs a screen this dark, without having other additives to enhance your colors and whites.

I would also recommend NOT using Behr paints.
If you want the best paint solution in a "simple to use, buy some paint and paint a screen", Benjamin Moore Aura. The benefits of this paint when applied with a 5mm roller, is no roller edge marks and an easy 2 coat solution with no priming. Also, after your 1st coat, you can coat again in just 1 hour and that's it, you're done! It's expensive paint, but all u need is a quart. Don't go buying a gallon.

Benjamin Moore has a tint called Sidewalk Grey. It is very neutral and it's RGB values are as follows: 200.82 202.99 205.46. As you can see, very close to neutral and a brilliant solution to a neutral screen.

The other common mistake people make is using a matte finish. Again, you're doing yourself an injustice. A satin/pearl finish will give you much more enhanced picture with great reflective properties. Ever look at a high-end theater screen? They're not a matte finish.

Please people, do yourself a favor and do some research on better cheap paint solutions.
While SS may look good to you, it's hard to make an informed decision when not having compared it to anything else.

Not trying to step on anyone's toes here, I just want to help people make better choices and get a better viewing experience.



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post #1412 of 1439 Old 12-11-2012, 04:54 PM
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I looked at the CIL "Neutral Grey" paint, went two shades lighter (Snow Field) , then used minwax satin polycrylic mixed in and it made for a really nice picture. Use Floetrol if you're worried about roller marks. Better yet, get a sprayer and don't worry about roller marks at all! I mean, isn't it worth it to cough up $60-70 to get something fantastic, seeing as you're going to be looking at it all the time? Just my 0.02.

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post #1413 of 1439 Old 03-07-2013, 10:53 AM
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I replaced an old Infocus 4805 (which was well loved) with a BenQ w1070.
I took the advice using the Benjamin Moore 'Aura', satin finish and painted over my previous SilverScreen.
The family all agrees that the pearlescent finish is EXTREMELY distracting.

The new w1070 has TONS of lumens to spare over our previous 4805, so my gut feeling is that the pearl finish is overkill.
I lived for several years with this painted flat SS gray wall, and frankly don't have the time/$$ to build a screen at the moment, so a painted solution is ideal.

Any thoughts on a quick, economical, and EASY solution?
I do plan to do it more justice with laminate screen one day in the future, but for now I just want a better painted solution.
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post #1414 of 1439 Old 03-07-2013, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patwoods View Post

I replaced an old Infocus 4805 (which was well loved) with a BenQ w1070.
I took the advice using the Benjamin Moore 'Aura', satin finish and painted over my previous SilverScreen.
The family all agrees that the pearlescent finish is EXTREMELY distracting.

The new w1070 has TONS of lumens to spare over our previous 4805, so my gut feeling is that the pearl finish is overkill.
I lived for several years with this painted flat SS gray wall, and frankly don't have the time/$$ to build a screen at the moment, so a painted solution is ideal.

Any thoughts on a quick, economical, and EASY solution?
I do plan to do it more justice with laminate screen one day in the future, but for now I just want a better painted solution.

Well..................... rolleyes.gif

I'd find it amusing...almost to the point of ROTFLMAO if it wasn't so very sad and unfortunate. Here someone comes onto the Silver Screen Thread, one dedicated to a simple, proven solution, and proceeds to tell everyone how misguided they are if they even consider using it Then the very solution he offers is adjudged to be a terrible choice. It was pretty much guaranteed to be a loser...owing to the fact it was both a "Pearl" and a Satin.

I guess I could'a / should'a spoken up when the post came up, but I have already stoutly defended BCortez's child many times before.

My bad, it seems.

Go to Home Depot....get a Gallon of Glidden Gray "Gripper" primer (...it will both adhere to, and cover the Satin very well 'as is"), and apply that over the offending paint. Then calibrate the 1070 to the shade of Gray.

......and do check back before you jump into a laminate Screen. There are far better solutions...and you can be certain of that. Also be certain that any suggested Paint application you receive won't be a disappointment.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1415 of 1439 Old 03-07-2013, 12:31 PM
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I had done a little bit of updated researching into the pained screen since several years ago, and I had totally planned to use the same as it just plain worked well for our situation.

My instinct told me that I should have just gone with what had worked for us before. My head said - what does it hurt to try? wink.gif
Ah well, lesson learned: No harm, no foul - it's just paint smile.gif

As for the laminate, thanks for the info. I wish I had time to fabricate a nice screen, or the cash to buy one outright, but time and money are tight so the paint will have to do for now.
Glidden Gray Primer it is smile.gif

On a related note, I was thinking that I might trim my painted rectangle with velvet border tape -- is that a workable solution for an extra-cheap-quick border?

I very much appreciate your wisdom here, sir. Thanks!
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post #1416 of 1439 Old 03-07-2013, 01:58 PM
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Your welcome, of course. ... You said simple and easy, and since that pre-painted, pearlecent surface would be harder to cover with paint alone, combining the Gray shade w/Primer is one certain path down that road. I would apply paint only until you get complete, even coverage.

But this is suggested more because of the PJ being employed. You never stated your screen's size, but it would have to be a biggun' to outpace the 1070.

The real truth is that if you can get over the pain of the mis-start, (...as it seems here: "... No harm, no foul - it's just paint..." ) then gosh...just simply do it right this time. Simple....but as right as possible.

The real paint for you to use would be a Behr or Valspar Flat Interior Enamel, tinted to .....whaddya know....SilverScreen. Or maybe something even more neutral. http://cdn.avsforum.com/4/44/44bd574b_vbattach93912.jpeg

Up in the DIY "Beginners Guide to Simple DIY Screens" sticky are actual Neutral Gray tints. Most large stores like Lowes and Home Depot can access and mix any competing color, so don't let yourself be limited to on Brands selection.

At this conjecture, the best route I can really suggest is getting a Gallon of the least expensive Interior Flat Enamel "Base" and have it tinted to Sherwin Williams SW 7064 PASSIVE Gray.
Before you re-cover, take a medium Grit sanding sponge and give the screen surface a light but through "sweep sanding"...about 6 strokes and move over, overlapping each preceding row. Go across the width of the screen at top, then go back and gto acr4oss the width of the bottom, slightly overlapping the bottom edge of the prior sanding.

Your not really trying to remove material as much as prep the surface to be able to absorb the upcoming paint's moisture. Of course any smoothing is a added benefit.

But to regress...all the above also applies to if you want to use the SS Tint in a Interior Flat Enamel.

That'll work too.

Compare the price between the Gripper and a Gallon of Behr or Valspar Int. Enamel. If ya gotta roller, use "good" quality Rollers and don't overwork the rows...just work the wet edges so they are blended.
...............or tell me your gonna spray and make my day into a brighter tomorrow. biggrin.gif

Either way you go you'll be better off than the present. But I hope you can manage to make it Mo bedder than what you had at the start......gotta be that good, at least.

If you can find some Honest to Goodness "real Black Velvet Tape", absolutely...use it. Problem is, much of what is called "Velvet" ain't really. But if it's really Black...and doesn't have a sheen, or too short a Nap, it's all just a case of "It might work...."

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post #1417 of 1439 Old 03-07-2013, 02:19 PM
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Are you actually saying that the Gripper would work as the actual paint as well, if I had it tinted to the correct gray?
I was planning to sand down the satin either way as I know the next coat would need it to be sanded to adhere correctly.
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post #1418 of 1439 Old 03-07-2013, 02:45 PM
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If you got a White "Gripper" and had it Tinted the suggested color, it would probably be better than the shade of Gray the Gray gripper comes in arbitrarily. The Gripper is a Primer that will easily stick to a painted surface without one having to "Tooth" it with sanding. Of course if you sand anyway, all the more Mo bedder. Essentially, and as stated...it's a "Go buy it and apply it" solution to your situation.

I just cannot bring myself to say it will be as good as or better than Silver Screen, let alone a true neutral Gray such as Sherwin Williams SW 7064 PASSIVE Gray.

Ya gotta know I'd like to nudge you into the best application your willing to consider, but all the same I want to respect your request for a "quick, economical, and EASY solution".

There is nothing exorbitantly expensive or complex involved going beyond a "Primer" surface. Upgrading to a Interior Flat Enamel is both possible by virtue of your planning to prep-sand the Wall and the fact the paint might be all of $4.00 more per Gallon than the Primer. If you wanted optimal performance from a Mid-Dark Gray, yeah....two Coats of "White" Gripper covered with a Tinted Gray Flat enamel would be as far as you have to go before overstepping the boundaries of "quick, economical, and EASY solution"

It's your call. Some checking should show how much if any real amount extra it really will cost. If adding another Step in the painting process seems abhorrent, then I'm betting your expectations will still be met / exceeded by sanding and rolling on a Flat Enamel.....

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post #1419 of 1439 Old 03-07-2013, 06:37 PM
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I had an Infocus 4805 and projected it onto the Behr Silverscreen. I liked the results a lot. I rolled the screen. Two coats of Kilz primer on a hardboard from HD. Three coats of Silverscreen. I used a foam roller. I do a lot of DIY painting around the house and have a real light hand when it comes to rolling. I don't have a sprayer so I did what I could to get a screen made.

I replaced the Infocus with a Mitsubishi 3800 and did not like the silverscreen with that projector. I went to a full white screen using a Valspar brilliant white with good luck. I don't have that screen now. It has progressed to a AT screen. For a fast screen silverscreen served me well.

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103 inch AT screen with 9.x playback. IB subs. Two with dual 15s and one with dual 12s. Screen channels with Minimus 77s. Minimus 7 on front wide and front high and wides and sides. Room is perfect size for smaller speakers like the Minimus speakers. Approx. 17x13x8. Tower speakers were taking up to much room. Onkyo 818 used as pre-amp. Power amp duties handled by HK 2.1 Kenwood KM-X1. Hafler DH200.
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post #1420 of 1439 Old 03-08-2013, 07:24 AM
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Yes...things do change. As projectors become more exacting in their performance potential, it does make good sense to use a surface that does not detract from such potential.

Ambient Light issues notwithstanding, using a reasonable shade of Neutral Gray is well known as an effective booster of perceived Contrast, by darkening Black Levels without seemingly attenuating Whites as proportionately so.

Silver Screen offered simplicity and extreme affordability during a time when most DIY'ers were choosing the least expensive PJs available, which in turn did not offer very impressive Contrast. They also were none too bright, so the light Gray of Silver Screen was also working an advantage.

But other Grays, such as the venerable Glidden Color "Misty Evening" also found a wide acceptance due to it's tendency to provide a razor sharp image because of the slight Blue/Green push accenting Whites, making them appear brighter even as the shade of Gray enhanced Color depth and Black levels. Misty Evening eventually suffered the same critical evaluation and rebuke that some direct at Silver Screen (...perhaps a bit more deservedly...) because it rode the wave of PJ improvements that washed in after the initial offerings such as the InFocus X1 & Sanyo Z1, the first PJs to really make Front Projection break free from the constraints of the CRT / DLP price points. As PJs became all the more Color Correct, a surface that had a obvious "push" became more of an annoyance than a advantage.

Recently (3-4 years back) Silver Screen was tested and found to be basically color Neutral enough to rebut most of the adverse comments about it's lack of worthiness. Most. Those who advocate total neutrality in a Gray of course did more than suggest it as being a less than optimal choice. They pretty much dismissed it altogether....vehemently.

Today, Silver Screen holds a place as being both an anachronism and a "acceptable" choice. That's not easy to do. If mixed with the very least expensive Base one can find, and used with a 720p 1600 lumen+ PJ that cost a nickle and a dime, it's gonna deliver an image that anyone spending under $1k can cozy up to with satisfaction.

I would not go so far as to suggest it as a viable choice for anyone who spends $1400.00 & up for a 1080p PJ with 50K:1 or higher Contrast though. Hedging the $20-60.00 extra expense of using any of the newer DIY Paint applications would seem to be a case of willfully resigning one's self to end results that could in fact be measurably better on even the most basic levels.

However, we all must also realize that those who have had Silver Screen applications for several years, and have not found them wanting in any way, are not going to be easily swayed. That's OK....because in truth, no drastically improved PJ is going to suffer horribly splashing content on Silver Screen, and as is so often pointed out, if one does not have the opportunity, nor the inclination to make a specific comparison between the "Old and the New", what they don't experience they cannot really lament the lack thereof.

Over the years, and as both a courtesy and consideration to this Threads author bcortez, I myself have risen to defend Silver Screen's right to existance in the DIY'ers repertoire of quick, easy Paint choices. Dismissals and lamentations posted by those who have not tried SS, and who post only to ward off those considering such have no real bearing an purpose in doing so considering the proven Fact that SS is not really a bad choice at all. But I have myself sent PMs to those who I felt might be better served using something else, opting to not denigrate SS on this thread by stating the reasons for such a switch being worthy of consideration.

In the end, most Threads that advocate older ideas and applications simply fade away into the Archives. It is a true testimonial to the prior popularity of Silver Screen that even after all the time that expires between active posting on this Thread, there is always someone coming along to state how pleased they have been with SS, and how they feel about keeping it around. No one should belittle anyone for feeling such loyalty or acceptance on the grounds that they should just go out and try something else. Helping someone find an optimal choice for any given situation is what this Forum is based on and centers around. No one should go onto another dedicated Thread and express a contrary opinion based soley on trying to warn another person away from said application.

Unless they opt to do so via PM. wink.gif

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post #1421 of 1439 Old 06-04-2013, 03:39 PM
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Bumping a bit of an older thread to ask my question on the Behr Silver Screen, and wall painting in general I suppose.

My Epson 5020UBe is on its way, so I am trying to figure out what to do with my wall to be ready to watch my first projected movies. I really, really do not want a pull-down screen or a hanging screen, so I was looking at painting the bare wall and kept stumbling across this thread.

I will admit I did not read all 48 pages here, but I read the beginning and the end and just have a couple of questions.

1. Is Behr Silver Screen still a viable product to use for painting a screen on the wall?

2. Does anything further need to be done with that paint (lightening, texture)? I would be painting on the wall below directly.

3. Anything else I need to know?



The room is ~15'4" in length and with my current couch that would put the viewing distance at a bit under 13'.
The "screen wall" is 8'3" tall from baseboards to ceiling and there are outlets and whatnot about 18.5" off the ground (I have a storage unit which is a bit higher to hold components and hide the outlets).
That same wall is 9'4" fully across, but is only 8'5" to where you can see that footer under the windows jutting out.

Side view of the space; yes, I will be getting blackout shades, don't worry. biggrin.gif



Thank in advance for the help!

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post #1422 of 1439 Old 06-05-2013, 07:26 AM
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Mount the 5020 withing 6" of it's closest possible throw distance for your Screen size. (you never mentioned size) 98" diagonal seems ideal however. (85" x 48")

The SS will do well, although being under 1.0 gain a degree of reflectivity will be lost.

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post #1423 of 1439 Old 06-18-2013, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Mount the 5020 withing 6" of it's closest possible throw distance for your Screen size. (you never mentioned size) 98" diagonal seems ideal however. (85" x 48")

The SS will do well, although being under 1.0 gain a degree of reflectivity will be lost.

Gah, sorry for the late reply; I could have sworn I was subscribed to this thread and just assumed everyone was ignoring me. frown.gif Thanks for the response.

Apologies for my ignorance, but what exactly does this mean:
Quote:
withing 6" of it's closest possible throw distance for your Screen size

I was actually looking at grabbing a cabinet and throwing the 5020 on top of that, so the projector would be at a height of around 60" above the floor, then it would be projecting to the opposite wall about 14.5 feet away.

I have no idea on screen size; I was just going to paint the wall with Silver Screen, then throw the image up and figure out what looks right as I sit there, adjusting accordingly. After that I would think about framing it to stop any bleeding.

Thanks again!

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post #1424 of 1439 Old 06-18-2013, 01:01 PM
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If you look at the projector calculator at www.projectorcentral.com the minimum throw distance for a 98" diagonal screen would be 9'6" so MM is recommending that you mount the projector at 10' because that will allow you to get a bright picture with a sub 1.0 gain screen. At a distance of 14.5' the brightness for the 98" diagonal screen would be 20 foot lamberts, still pretty watchable but not as good with the amount of ambient light you are likely to have. Mounting the projector at 10' would give a brightness of 35 fl, which allows for a greater amount of ambient light and still have a decent picture.
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post #1425 of 1439 Old 06-18-2013, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahajr143 View Post

If you look at the projector calculator at www.projectorcentral.com the minimum throw distance for a 98" diagonal screen would be 9'6" so MM is recommending that you mount the projector at 10' because that will allow you to get a bright picture with a sub 1.0 gain screen. At a distance of 14.5' the brightness for the 98" diagonal screen would be 20 foot lamberts, still pretty watchable but not as good with the amount of ambient light you are likely to have. Mounting the projector at 10' would give a brightness of 35 fl, which allows for a greater amount of ambient light and still have a decent picture.

Ah, ok , that makes sense now. Thank you.

Unfortunately that would force me to get a ceiling mount, which really sucks. If I am reading that calculator correctly, then I need to actually go with a bigger screen size in order to live with that longer throw distance?

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post #1426 of 1439 Old 06-18-2013, 01:48 PM
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KT,

No...you do not. At 14' -6" and 98" diagonal you'll get 16 foot lambert. (...based on the SS giving you a 0.7 gain screen surface...) Anything bigger and you'll lose even more brightness. Nope, closer garners more light...never "further away".

Shoot, the 5020 can provide 98" diagonal at 20'.5"....but you'd only have 12 foot lambert of screen brightness.

14' - 6" is entirely do-able, but I'm certain you'll find yourself doing what it takes to mitigate ambient light whenever critical viewing is on the agenda. (...Dark content / Movies)

With all that considered, an effective cieling mount solution seems to be the obvious choice, but you don't mention why it's not preferable....or even allowed.

I see it this way...if one spends for a 5020, it's because he wants something that looks better than most. Proper placement and he'll get "outstanding"...even with a SS painted wall. In fact, achieving a high level of performance & quality off a "Gray Wall" would just make the whole proposition all the more cool.cool.gif

Also to be considered, almost no need to "make do" with ambient light considerations.

Ahhhh, but we can only advise....and maybe contribute a little shove, but you have to determine what can...and should be done, then either adapt your reasoning and preferences, or go with you want no matter what.

At least even under the worst case, it'll still look splendid at night.

(...Hey! You do realize that at 14.-6" you can zoom out to 145" diagonal...right? eek.gif ...)

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post #1427 of 1439 Old 06-18-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

KT,

No...you do not. At 14' -6" and 98" diagonal you'll get 16 foot lambert. (...based on the SS giving you a 0.7 gain screen surface...) Anything bigger and you'll lose even more brightness. Nope, closer garners more light...never "further away".

Shoot, the 5020 can provide 98" diagonal at 20'.5"....but you'd only have 12 foot lambert of screen brightness.

14' - 6" is entirely do-able, but I'm certain you'll find yourself doing what it takes to mitigate ambient light whenever critical viewing is on the agenda. (...Dark content / Movies)

With all that considered, an effective cieling mount solution seems to be the obvious choice, but you don't mention why it's not preferable....or even allowed.

I see it this way...if one spends for a 5020, it's because he wants something that looks good. Proper placement and he'll get "outstanding"...even with a SS painted wall.

Also to be considered, almost no need to "make do" with ambient light considerations.

Heh, well I'm dumb, that makes way more sense. I thought it was odd to go the other direction; apparently I don't know how to read that calculator. redface.gif

I do not want a ceiling mount because I don't want a projector hanging in the middle of the room, it is very unappealing visually since it will always be there and I have a very open place, so I would always see it hanging there.

The reason for the 5020 was indeed for it to look good, but also in the hopes it could compensate for some of the inadequacies of my room. Maybe a bad call, but that is the hope!

KT

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post #1428 of 1439 Old 06-18-2013, 02:25 PM
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Well it's all good. A Ceiling Mount that would have the 5020 hug the Ceiling to within 5" would seem to not be too intrusive, but as a Custom Installer, you can bet I realize that some wouldn't even consider a PJ if they had to look at it. At all. I know...I've built "Through The Wall"...."In the Soffit"...Fully Enclosed" PJ systems a'plenty.

It all comes down to a blending of Tastes and the need for a specific level of performance. If the two are "oil & water", then yep, something has to be let go.

But despite having said that, there is nothing at all that is all "Gloom & Doom" about your most preferred choice. It'll pass muster just fine.

Hey lets compromise! Consider a better Paint solution...one that's got the same level of Grayness, but that has 1.2 gain.

RS-MaxxMudd. Usually, only the RS-MaxxMudd LL is advised as being "roll-able" but if you go to the extent of using a 18" 3/8" Nap Roller, and do a good job of Rolling (...as you can be instructed to do....) you can have a 1.2 gain wall **

What will that get'cha? Only 36 fls, and enough contrast assistance to easily overcome modest ambient light issues.

So spend what you would for a Ceiling mount on some RS-MM paint components and Roller Supplies, and get an even better level of performance than simply moving the PJ up 2 feet ever could get'cha.

......and of course, then...when ya wanna, go right ahead and zoom out to 145" diagonal and watch sports like they were meant to be watched!
That is to say : "Better'n any of your Neighbors getta.: cool.gif


**
I just finished a 225" Diagonal RS-MM screen that I (...and I am serious...) rolled directly onto primed Drywall

(...but don't tell anybody...it'll be our secret... wink.gif )

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post #1429 of 1439 Old 06-18-2013, 04:01 PM
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Well it's all good. A Ceiling Mount that would have the 5020 hug the Ceiling to within 5" would seem to not be too intrusive, but as a Custom Installer, you can bet I realize that some wouldn't even consider a PJ if they had to look at it. At all. I know...I've built "Through The Wall"...."In the Soffit"...Fully Enclosed" PJ systems a'plenty.

It all comes down to a blending of Tastes and the need for a specific level of performance. If the two are "oil & water", then yep, something has to be let go.

But despite having said that, there is nothing at all that is all "Gloom & Doom" about your most preferred choice. It'll pass muster just fine.

Hey lets compromise! Consider a better Paint solution...one that's got the same level of Grayness, but that has 1.2 gain.

RS-MaxxMudd. Usually, only the RS-MaxxMudd LL is advised as being "roll-able" but if you go to the extent of using a 18" 3/8" Nap Roller, and do a good job of Rolling (...as you can be instructed to do....) you can have a 1.2 gain wall **

What will that get'cha? Only 36 fls, and enough contrast assistance to easily overcome modest ambient light issues.

So spend what you would for a Ceiling mount on some RS-MM paint components and Roller Supplies, and get an even better level of performance than simply moving the PJ up 2 feet ever could get'cha.

......and of course, then...when ya wanna, go right ahead and zoom out to 145" diagonal and watch sports like they were meant to be watched!
That is to say : "Better'n any of your Neighbors getta.: cool.gif


**
I just finished a 225" Diagonal RS-MM screen that I (...and I am serious...) rolled directly onto primed Drywall

(...but don't tell anybody...it'll be our secret... wink.gif )

Haha, well that sounds amazing, thanks MM! I guess if I could find someone to come in and put the projector that tight to the ceiling, then I would not mind, but since most of this will be done on my own, I want to try and avoid the mounts. I've not really seen much in the way of installers around here, so it's solo work for me.

That paint sounds fantastic; I am very happy to give that a try. Time to try and find that stuff around here.

KT

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post #1430 of 1439 Old 06-19-2013, 06:37 AM
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KT,

No...you do not. At 14' -6" and 98" diagonal you'll get 16 foot lambert. (...based on the SS giving you a 0.7 gain screen surface...) Anything bigger and you'll lose even more brightness. Nope, closer garners more light...never "further away".

Shoot, the 5020 can provide 98" diagonal at 20'.5"....but you'd only have 12 foot lambert of screen brightness.

14' - 6" is entirely do-able, but I'm certain you'll find yourself doing what it takes to mitigate ambient light whenever critical viewing is on the agenda. (...Dark content / Movies)

With all that considered, an effective cieling mount solution seems to be the obvious choice, but you don't mention why it's not preferable....or even allowed.

I see it this way...if one spends for a 5020, it's because he wants something that looks better than most. Proper placement and he'll get "outstanding"...even with a SS painted wall. In fact, achieving a high level of performance & quality off a "Gray Wall" would just make the whole proposition all the more cool.cool.gif

Also to be considered, almost no need to "make do" with ambient light considerations.

Ahhhh, but we can only advise....and maybe contribute a little shove, but you have to determine what can...and should be done, then either adapt your reasoning and preferences, or go with you want no matter what.

At least even under the worst case, it'll still look splendid at night.

(...Hey! You do realize that at 14.-6" you can zoom out to 145" diagonal...right? eek.gif ...)

Wow, I didn't mean to misinform. I used 0.9 for the gain of the SS in the projector calculator that I based my above comments on. I didn't realize the Behr
SS was that dark!
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post #1431 of 1439 Old 06-19-2013, 08:50 AM
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So tried to find the components for that RS-MaxxMudd stuff around here, but to no avail. It's looking more and more likely that I will just have to go with the Silverscreen for now and see how it goes.

One more question, I was looking at the decibel ratings for my projector and it says the 5020 runs around 32db on max; if I have that sitting on a shelf about 10-12" above my head, would it be distracting? I looked at db charts to try and figure it out, but figured I would ask people with experience using these things.

Thanks again!

KT

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post #1432 of 1439 Old 06-19-2013, 03:34 PM
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So tried to find the components for that RS-MaxxMudd stuff around here, but to no avail. It's looking more and more likely that I will just have to go with the Silverscreen for now and see how it goes.

One more question, I was looking at the decibel ratings for my projector and it says the 5020 runs around 32db on max; if I have that sitting on a shelf about 10-12" above my head, would it be distracting? I looked at db charts to try and figure it out, but figured I would ask people with experience using these things.

Thanks again!

KT

Keith,

I can help you aquire what you cannot source locally, but I do hope you won't let logistics deter you from doing up a truly great screen

And yessir...you bet...32db at 12" and unless your needing hearing aids, you will hear the fan.

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post #1433 of 1439 Old 06-19-2013, 05:14 PM
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Keith,

I can help you aquire what you cannot source locally, but I do hope you won't let logistics deter you from doing up a truly great screen

And yessir...you bet...32db at 12" and unless your needing hearing aids, you will hear the fan.

Good to know on the noise; I'll make sure it is further away. Thanks.

I don't mind spending money, but I'm lazy and am not technically inclined at all, unless it's a PC, so the thought of mixing a bunch of chemicals seems a bit much for me. I'll call around to some of the local hardware stores though to see if they have the components and can maybe throw it together for me.

Thanks for all of the advice MM.

KT

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post #1434 of 1439 Old 06-21-2013, 07:51 AM
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Just looking at ceiling mounts since I am now 100% convinced that is the right way to go. Would something like this work? Atdec TH-WH-PJ-FM Telehook Universal Projector Flush Mount or do I need to find something else that drops down a bit more? I have ~8.5' concrete ceilings.

KT


Edit: is there anything special I need to be aware of with mounting this on a concrete ceiling? I should be able to get about a 3" screw in there; is that sufficient?

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post #1435 of 1439 Old 06-21-2013, 04:14 PM
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That is an awful mount. A piece of outdated, ugly, Frankenstein'esque junk. (...harsh words? Not nearly enough so....)
It's Pitch / Yaw /Level adjustments are based on only two axis of adjustment, and secured by two screws at just two points. The "Butterfly Plate that would mount to the Ceiling as a small footprint and only facilitates two screws

You need the Chief RPA-168 (PJ Specific) mount, like the one shown on the 8350 below. Same exact mounting plate, BTW....all Epsons' in the 8000 / 9000 / 5/6000 series share the same mounting holes. You'll just be using a Steel Nipple instead of PVC Couplings.





combined with the Peerless ACC-570 Round Ceiling Plate.



Use a 2" Threaded Nipple to join them. The ACC-570 has a hole to pass cabling down through the center of the mount and to the back of the PJ.

The PJ below is a 6020, but you'll get the idea.....



That is the perfect mount for you. Can I be blunt? Nothing else compares, and any other choice would run contrary to...no, would actually fly in the very face of reason if the PJ must be mounted to a Cement Ceiling.

Find both via Projector People ie: Kirk Ritari ext: 2002 and tell him you a AVS DIY'er referred by "you know who" and he'll make sure your well taken care of.




............................and that's all I have to say about that.

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post #1436 of 1439 Old 06-21-2013, 05:12 PM
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Tell me how you really feel MM!

Sounds good; I had no idea, so was just looking around and that one popped up. I assume this is the one you are recommending: http://www.projectorpeople.com/Chief_Manufacturing_RPAU_Universal_Projector_Ceiling_Mount,_Black/Accessory/20148

It looks like they ship to Canada, so I will go ahead and order that one.

I sure hope this is worth all of the hassle! biggrin.gif

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post #1437 of 1439 Old 06-21-2013, 05:23 PM
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No....read my model description.....again please.

RPA-168 (Projector Specific)

.........not "Universal".

Look at my images....they don't look like yours. wink.gif

Call Kirk. If you present yourself as suggested, you'll beat the prices you've seen by over $20.00 cool.gif

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post #1438 of 1439 Old 06-21-2013, 05:29 PM
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No....read my model description.....again please.

RPA-168 (Projector Specific)

.........not "Universal".

Look at my images....they don't look like yours. wink.gif

Call Kirk. cool.gif

Gah, sorry. That universal one is what came up when I searched their website for RPA-168 so I just assumed that was it. redface.gif

I will call them tomorrow. Thanks again!

KT

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post #1439 of 1439 Old 06-21-2013, 05:32 PM
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Nope...it'll have to be a "Monday Morning 9 am Eastern" kinda thing........

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