Hello everyone! For my first thread, after spending a couple months just reading and reading and absorbing and reading some more, I figured I should contribute to the forum by sharing the particular screen design I came up with. Who knows, maybe there's someone out there who might like this approach and find it useful?
My story is pretty common, I suppose. Always wanted a front projector... I recently bought a refurbished X1 and a Zenith 318, and along with a Cinemascope (actually, a French made Hypergonar) 2x projection lens I acquired a few years back, I've got a pretty decent (and low cost) near-HD image to project (or "enhanced definition", anyways). But I needed a screen... and preferably, a temporary and portable one that I could construct in my living room, break down on occasion, and take over to my friends' places and reconstruct in just a few minutes.
I was going to buy a $600 Da-lite Fast-fold portable screen, which I was familiar with, having rented it... but it would have cost as much as my projector and there would've been no dress kit included. But, as the trite expression goes, "necessity is the mother of invention"... and thanks to the minds gathered at this forum and a little ingenuity on my part, I think I've come up with a perfectly acceptable, low cost solution. So here goes...Materials List:
(1) 60" x 60" Projection Screen w / tripod stand
(1) 8' x 4' Parkland Plastics sheet
(2) 4' lengths of 1" x 1/8" right angle aluminum
(2) 50" lengths of 1" x 1/8" right angle aluminum
(2) 48-1/2" lengths of 1/4" diameter threaded rod
(1) 1/4" coupling nut
(4) 1/4" nuts
(2) 6-32 self-tightening nuts
(1) 1" hinge
(6) 6-32 screws cut to various lengths
(3) #6, 1/2" sheet metal screws with 1/4" hex heads and drill points
(2) Heavy duty picture frame hooks
(1) Flat brass hook
(2) Boxes of 15â€™ sticky back 3/4" Velcro
(2) 28â€ â€“ 48â€ extension type curtain rods
(1) Pair of 82â€ wide x 72â€ long black tab top curtains
(4) 51â€ lengths of 3-1/2â€ black fabric vertical blind material
(1) 10â€™ x 3â€™ heavy black Duvateen
(1) 1/4" aluminum screw (8-32 thread) & post (3/16â€ diameter)
(1) 8-1/2â€™ of 12 gauge black copper wire
(2) 1-1/4â€ wide binder clips
(2) 3/4" wide binder clipsTools:
Drill & metal drill bits
5/16â€ & 1/4â€ nut drivers
Flat head screwdriver
Hacksaw with metal blade
Tap and Die set
Heavy duty hand tacker/staple gun with staples
Standard office stapler
High temp. glue gun & glue sticks
Roll of black electrical tape
Unfortunately, I did not document the actual fabricating process, but these pictures showing
how to put the portable screen together should give you enough to go by or to add your own
ideas to the overall design. Here we see all the various parts packed up and ready to be
either constructed or transported away.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...-and-Parts.jpg
From the top down you can see the store bought projection screen, the hinged bottom aluminum
frame, the left and right side pieces, the threaded rods, and the 12 gauge wire that I use to
stretch the top of the screen taut and straight. (In the future I may substitute the wire with a
steel cable and turnbuckle for added strength and stability.)
The lower panel is a close-up of the various nuts and screws and the two heavy-duty picture
frame hooks that I contorted and rearranged in a vice to hold my curtain rods.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...ame-Pieces.jpg
On the left panel is a better view of the hinged bottom aluminum frame. Notice how Iâ€™ve placed
the squares and rectangles of Velcroâ€¦ those are used to hold the pleated Duvateen â€œskirtâ€
that Iâ€™ve made to frame the bottom of the screen down to the floor and hide the tripod legs. You
can just make out the long strips of Velcro on the adjacent sides that are used to hold the bottom
of the Parkland screen in place. Also, notice the two screws that will hold the side pieces.
In the middle panel are the left and right sides of the frameâ€¦ you canâ€™t see the Velcro on either,
but face down on both is a strip that runs nearly the entire length of the pieces.
On the right panel you can see the threaded rods with the coupler on one.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...inge-Clasp.jpg
Here is a close-up of the hinge on the bottom frame. The hook isnâ€™t very sturdy, but it doesnâ€™t
really have to be.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...ide-Pieces.jpg
These are the tops of the left and right side pieces. Notice Iâ€™ve drilled several holes and
notched out a gap with my hacksaw.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...nd-Coupler.jpg
This is rather self explanatoryâ€¦ just joining the two threaded rods.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...ing-Thread.jpg
1.) Set up the tripod projection screen.
2.) Adjust the bottom of the screen to a preset mark and lock it in place.
3.) Stretch the screen up a few feet and secure it (notice the Velcro along the top of the screen).
4.) Take the plastic end caps off (note the hole I drilled).
5.) Slide the joined threaded rods through the top of the screen.
6.) Slide the right end cap back on and align with a preset mark.
7.) Pull the rod through on the left and slide the end cap on.
8.) Align the left side of the rod with another mark.
9.) Extend the screen up so that the screen is 4 feet high.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...ttom-Frame.jpg
Place the bottom frame on top of the projection screenâ€™s spring loaded housing. Remove the two
top existing screws that hold the plastic end caps on the housing and replace them with your
self drilling sheet metal screws. Previously, I had drilled with a self drilling screw near the center
of the spring loaded housing so I could later secure it as well. Be careful not to drill into the screen
The left and right side pieces are held in place with the screws protruding from either side of
the bottom frame and secured with the self-tightening nuts.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...rtain-Rods.jpg
1.) Place the heavy duty picture frame hooks on the top of either side piece.
2.) Get your curtain rods.*
3.) Slide the right curtain rod onto the right-side threaded rod.
4.) Put one nut on the end of the threaded rod about half an inch back.
5.) Secure the rod with another nut
6.) Place the curtain rod into the picture frame hook.
7.) This is the finished appearance.
8.) Do the same for the left side.
9.) Extend the 12 gauge wire across from either side for further stability.
* Notice Iâ€™ve placed some Velcro around both curtain rods and put zip ties on either side to
hold them in place. The Velcro is there to secure the top masking for 1.85 and 1.33 projection.
To make the curtain rods black, Iâ€™ve simply wrapped them in electrical tape. Initially I just
drilled holes in the curtain rods so I could slide them onto the threaded rodsâ€¦ but later I took a
hacksaw to the curtain rods and notched out a path to the hole so I didnâ€™t have to take the nuts
off the running thread and remove the wire just to get the curtain rods on or off.http://home.earthlink.net/~particlew...-and-Skirt.jpg
1.) Get your rolled-up Parkland Plastics screen (notice the Velcro around the back edge of the screen).
2.) Put the screen on the newly built frame (I use a center mark on the screen and frame to guide me).
3.) Take your pleated â€œskirtâ€.*
4.) Velcro it to the small ledge on the bottom frame.
5.) Hereâ€™s how it should look.
6.) Take your top and bottom masking (the vertical blind material).
7.) Stretch it across the bottom of the screen and secure it with the Velcro.
8.) This gives a nice, straight bottom frame.
9.) Do the same for the top and use a 3/4" wide binder clip to hold it to the screen at the
* Use heavy-duty staples along with regular staples and hot glue as needed to pleat the Duvateen
and secure the Velcro.
Next up are the final pictures...