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post #511 of 540 Old 07-10-2007, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakhe View Post

Hi MMan:

Can I use Silver fire on a drywall? If yes, what sort of primer do I use?


Absolutely you can use it .......on ANY smooth, applicable surface. Just always apply 3 coats of Kilz2 primer (water based) with a low Nap Roller (3/8" MAX)

Quote:


Also, none of the threads contain any details as to how to apply it (just as there are detailed instructions on how to apply Silver Metallic / MMudd).

Is there a thread with this information?

Thanx,

Bhushan

If your spraying or rolling, the required instructions are here...............at the start of this Thread....Second Post.....and are repeated below. They do not differ between either RS_MaxxMudd or Silver Fire.

For most people, the easiest and most available DIY option is to use a Flat , Semi-gloss or Satin white basecoat.

Spraying is the preferred application for both the basecoat and the topcoat.

For those rolling an upw gloss basecoat... a 1:/0.5:/0.5 mix of (upw/minwax polycrylic/water) is recommended for achieving a smoother basecoat. for best results use a 3/16" nap smooth synthetic roller.

-------------------------------

TIPS & TECHNIQUES...

- spraying is the preferred method over rolling.

- when spraying use a 1.4mm - 1.7mm spray tip.

- protect yourself (protect your lungs).

A word of warning to the wise... especially if you are planning on spraying ANY paint product or mix. wear the best mask you can afford... preferably the ones with dual filters and look like gas masks.

BRIEF SPRAYING INSTRUCTIONS...applicable for eithe a Conventional HVLP Gun/Compressor Rig or the Wagner Control Spray Electric HVLP

This mix is very 'wet' and you'll want your spraying motion to be fairly rapid and also watch for runs.

The 1st coat is what i call the 'frost coating'. basically in a very rapid motion you'll lightly apply a 'frost' coat across the entire board. the purpose of this is to give the full coat that is to follow something to adhere to... and to prevent runs. let this frost coat dry for 15/20 minutes.

The 2nd coat is a full coat. after applying... step back... and see if there are any 'soft' spots. lightly 'feather spray' the soft spots. and then let dry for 45 minutes.

The 3rd coat is also a full coat. after applying... again, step back, and see if there are any soft spots... and 'feather spray' only those.

let dry for a least 1/2 a day before viewing.
it'll take a week or more to cure and show it's full potential.

DO NOT USE ADDITIONAL EXTENDERS

Extenders such as floetrol are not needed with this mix. the MinWax water-based urethane is already a natural extender and does not require any additional help.

When rolling - use a 9 inch, 3/16" nap smooth synthetic roller

Three (3) coats is sufficent on top of a smooth, pure white primed surface.

The mix should go on nice and smooth, use vertical up and down strokes, work fairly quickly from left to right overlapping each pass and getting good coverage, but do not work the paint for long. the mix needs to go on wet and glossy... which allows the wetness of the mix, gravity, and time to blend the components together and dry without roller marks.

When you are done with each coat... the screen surface should look like a wet light gray glass sheet... and it should take about 20 minutes before you see any signs of drying. otherwise you put the coat of mix on too dry.
When rolled properly, the screen will dry to a smooth flat/eggshell finish.

--------------------------------

do not sand the final coat. as the mix dries the urethane slightly rises to the surface. sanding the final coat would only defeat some of the properties of the urethane in the mix.

If these tips and instructions are not enough, don't wander into virgin territory
without asking further questions.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #512 of 540 Old 07-10-2007, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Absolutely you can use it .......on ANY smooth, applicable surface. Just always apply 3 coats of Kilz2 primer (water based) with a low Nap Roller (3/8" MAX)



If your spraying or rolling, the required instructions are here...............at the start of this Thread....Second Post.....and are repeated below. They do not differ between either RS_MaxxMudd or Silver Fire.

For most people, the easiest and most available DIY option is to use a Flat , Semi-gloss or Satin white basecoat.

Spraying is the preferred application for both the basecoat and the topcoat.

For those rolling an upw gloss basecoat... a 1:/0.5:/0.5 mix of (upw/minwax polycrylic/water) is recommended for achieving a smoother basecoat. for best results use a 3/16" nap smooth synthetic roller.

-------------------------------

TIPS & TECHNIQUES...

- spraying is the preferred method over rolling.

- when spraying use a 1.4mm - 1.7mm spray tip.

- protect yourself (protect your lungs).

A word of warning to the wise... especially if you are planning on spraying ANY paint product or mix. wear the best mask you can afford... preferably the ones with dual filters and look like gas masks.

BRIEF SPRAYING INSTRUCTIONS...applicable for eithe a Conventional HVLP Gun/Compressor Rig or the Wagner Control Spray Electric HVLP

This mix is very 'wet' and you'll want your spraying motion to be fairly rapid and also watch for runs.

The 1st coat is what i call the 'frost coating'. basically in a very rapid motion you'll lightly apply a 'frost' coat across the entire board. the purpose of this is to give the full coat that is to follow something to adhere to... and to prevent runs. let this frost coat dry for 15/20 minutes.

The 2nd coat is a full coat. after applying... step back... and see if there are any 'soft' spots. lightly 'feather spray' the soft spots. and then let dry for 45 minutes.

The 3rd coat is also a full coat. after applying... again, step back, and see if there are any soft spots... and 'feather spray' only those.

let dry for a least 1/2 a day before viewing.
it'll take a week or more to cure and show it's full potential.

DO NOT USE ADDITIONAL EXTENDERS

Extenders such as floetrol are not needed with this mix. the MinWax water-based urethane is already a natural extender and does not require any additional help.

When rolling - use a 9 inch, 3/16" nap smooth synthetic roller

Three (3) coats is sufficent on top of a smooth, pure white primed surface.

The mix should go on nice and smooth, use vertical up and down strokes, work fairly quickly from left to right overlapping each pass and getting good coverage, but do not work the paint for long. the mix needs to go on wet and glossy... which allows the wetness of the mix, gravity, and time to blend the components together and dry without roller marks.

When you are done with each coat... the screen surface should look like a wet light gray glass sheet... and it should take about 20 minutes before you see any signs of drying. otherwise you put the coat of mix on too dry.
When rolled properly, the screen will dry to a smooth flat/eggshell finish.

--------------------------------

do not sand the final coat. as the mix dries the urethane slightly rises to the surface. sanding the final coat would only defeat some of the properties of the urethane in the mix.

If these tips and instructions are not enough, don't wander into virgin territory
without asking further questions.

Thanx a lot, MMan. I plan to use a upw gloss basecoat. Should I use 3 coats for basecoat as well as topcoat? And are the drying times (between coats) valid for the basecoat as well as topcoat? Or are they different?

Pl. educate me.

Thanx,

Bhushan
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post #513 of 540 Old 07-10-2007, 08:40 PM
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Looking at upgrading from my Blackout Cloth screen. I am obsessed when it comes to getting blacks that show detail. What would be the best mix for that type result? We have a Optoma HD70 projector in our basement with no ambient light what so ever. I don't care much for my whites so whatever I can do to get that black detail would be the best. I am getting plenty of brightness with the blackout cloth now and we have the projector at a relatively low brightness setting, so I need to know what I can do to get those blacks.

Currently the screen measures about 108" so I think our final one is going to be about 92"- 96" so we should have even more light to play with. Also, is there a tutorial for everything from mixing the paint, to making the frame, to applying it? Thanks! Will also be getting a Oppo upconverter soon hopefully. I also need these blacks because lots of the games we play really need those dark details. Thanks again!

One more thing, do you guys just sell the mixed paint at all or is it easy enough to make? Thanks :P
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post #514 of 540 Old 07-11-2007, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakhe View Post

Thanx a lot, MMan. I plan to use a upw gloss basecoat. Should I use 3 coats for basecoat as well as topcoat?

Three coats of Primer sets up not just a very good white reflective surface, it also allows you to work that surface into as smooth a surface as possible by lightly sanding out any irregularities

Quote:


And are the drying times (between coats) valid for the basecoat as well as topcoat? Or are they different?

Primer drys somewhat faster than a Paint containing Poly. Observing the drying and noting that the "Wet Sheen' is leaving as the surface dries is the best indication of the process. After the sheen is gone and there is no concern about plastering dust and hair on the screen surface, the use of a Box Fan to hasten further drying will allow at most a 1 hour total drying time between finish coats.

Quote:


Pl. educate me.

Thanx,

Bhushan

Class dismissed. But keep your notes. There's a "PoP" quiz coming that's 90% of your grade for the semester. And there is NO Bell curve.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #515 of 540 Old 07-11-2007, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Class dismissed. But keep your notes. There's a "PoP" quiz coming that's 90% of your grade for the semester. And there is NO Bell curve.

Sure! Will keep all notes. Have always finished with 'A'.... Got some paint-hunting to do now!

Thanx a million, MMan!


regards,

Bhushan
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post #516 of 540 Old 07-13-2007, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbspills View Post

What do you mean by "Feather Spray"?

You start with the Gun pointing sideways to the surface, press the trigger and note you have paint flow, then twist the gun inward into the needful area to coat primarily that area that has less coverage (...or a Boo Boo to correct....) than the surrounding areas. As you reach the other side of the spot/area needing the "Feathering", you twist back sideways to the surface and release the trigger.

Practice doing that first.

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post #517 of 540 Old 07-17-2007, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakhe View Post


"SILVER FIRE"

(base components)
24 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601
16 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Silver Metallic #02603
8 oz. Behr Interior UPW Flat #1050 (or Exterior #4050)
8 oz. Delta Pale Metallic Gold #02624

(viscosity components)
20 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish
20 oz. Distilled / Tap Water

(color components)
30 ml Delta Cardinal Red #02077
18 ml Windsor & Newtwon "Galleria" - Pthalo Green (PG7)
12 ml Delta Ultra Blue #02038
4 oz. Distilled / Tap Water

I found the Windsor & Newtwon "Galleria" - Pthalo Green at a local Art store; but they seem to have 2 choices - one with blue shade and another with yellow. Does someone know whats the correct shade to use?

Thanx,

Bhushan
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post #518 of 540 Old 07-17-2007, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

you should probably repost this over in the silver fire thread...

however... the shade you are looking for is (PG-7)

Sorry for the oversight.....and thanx for the answer.....

- Bhushan
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post #519 of 540 Old 07-23-2007, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Damn, I'm amazed this post is still on the first page! It's been a while, hello guys.

I'm still using my original screen from the front of this post, but keep up the good work!
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post #520 of 540 Old 07-29-2007, 10:48 AM
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I've read on this thing for hours now, and I am still not quite sure as what to do and could really use some help. I have a Sony Pearl coming and am going to build a 110" screen with blackout cloth. If I have this correct my basecoat needs to be UPW Gloss (because this is blackout cloth?),Min-Wax, and water with the proportions of 1/.5/.5. I will also be using the LL formula on the first page:

16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601
8 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603
10 oz. UPW flat
2 oz. Delta Pale Metallic Gold #02624
14 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
14 oz. distilled/tap water

1) On the basecoat is the Min-Wax satin or gloss (I've read to use both)?
2) The UPW needs to be gloss (read both on this too, I have blackout cloth), is this correct?
3) The 1/.5/.5 formula for the base is the correct proportion for BOC?
4)The LL formula, are the ingredients listed above what goes into the top coat or does this also include what is needed for the base coat (the proportions aren't right for a 1/.5./.5 base coat so I assume this is strictly for the top coat)?
5) Is there another coat which goes on the top coat, or is the LL the finished product?

Thanks guys for you help!
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post #521 of 540 Old 07-29-2007, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcmo View Post

I've read on this thing for hours now, and I am still not quite sure as what to do and could really use some help. I have a Sony Pearl coming and am going to build a 110" screen with blackout cloth. If I have this correct my basecoat needs to be UPW Gloss (because this is blackout cloth?),Min-Wax, and water with the proportions of 1/.5/.5. I will also be using the LL formula on the first page:

16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601
8 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603
10 oz. UPW flat
2 oz. Delta Pale Metallic Gold #02624
14 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
14 oz. distilled/tap water

1) On the basecoat is the Min-Wax satin or gloss (I've read to use both)?

There is usually no need to use Minwax in the UPW base coat, but when it is used, it's usually a "Satin". Except for when the below situation is encountered.

Quote:


2) The UPW needs to be gloss (read both on this too, I have blackout cloth), is this correct?

No. A Gloss or Semi-Gloss UPW would be an Oil based Enamel, and no such usage is suggested. Instead, if you want those properties, maintain a Water Based mix by using a Gloss or Semi-Gloss Poly

Quote:


3) The 1/.5/.5 formula for the base is the correct proportion for BOC?

Yes.

Quote:


4)The LL formula, are the ingredients listed above what goes into the top coat or does this also include what is needed for the base coat (the proportions aren't right for a 1/.5./.5 base coat so I assume this is strictly for the top coat)?

Top Coat only.

Quote:


5) Is there another coat which goes on the top coat, or is the LL the finished product?

That's it.

Quote:


Thanks guys for you help!

Shur Nuff.

Before you start though check out the "Wagner for MississippiMan?" thread;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=799078

You'll want to spray for the absolute most stunning results, and you cannot do it any easier, quicker, or less expensive than with the Wagner Control Spray.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #522 of 540 Old 08-09-2007, 08:49 AM
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Hello, I'm new to this forum and have a few questions...

1. I'm using an OPH with color temp of 3450 and projected lumnes under 1000. Which screen mix should I consider with this setup?

2. Can I paint this mix on my canvas screen?

Thanks
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post #523 of 540 Old 08-09-2007, 09:03 AM
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I gotta confess I do not know what OPH means. But that 3450k figure is way below the optimal 6500k most consider standard.

Educate me/and/or any so needful as I.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #524 of 540 Old 08-09-2007, 09:28 AM
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Sorry for the confusion. OHP = Over Head Projector.

Thanks, JB
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post #525 of 540 Old 08-09-2007, 05:48 PM
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I am using a 3M 9800 Over Head Projector that puts out 6000 lumens at 3450k. I am using a 720P HD LCD TV. The projected image is ok in a dark room but very dim with background light. I'm currently using a canvas projector screen 150" diagonal. I want to decrease size of new screen to about 106" diagonal.
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post #526 of 540 Old 08-10-2007, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHP Man View Post

I am using a 3M 9800 Over Head Projector that puts out 6000 lumens at 3450k. I am using a 720P HD LCD TV. The projected image is ok in a dark room but very dim with background light. I'm currently using a canvas projector screen 150" diagonal. I want to decrease size of new screen to about 106" diagonal.

Now that is a pretty wild approach. Similar to DIY LCD PJs but kinda a short cut...eh?

Your screen size is partly to blame, so the reduction will help a lot. The canvas screen's gain is also detrimental, so just about anything with a better performance ratio will help you out as well..

Is the Canvas's weave very tight? Should be if it's a dedicated "Screen material". Can you consider using a spray method to coat it with, such as the Wagner Control Spray Electric HVLP Gun? ($70.00) ***

If so, you can easily coat that surface and vastly improve upon what you presently are putting up with, between a smaller size and a better surface, you'll be in OHP Heaven.

***If not, we have a member who also has a Canvas "Brush painted' screen solution
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=662348 It hasn't been tried with a "metallic based" Paint Mix though. But "Rolling" on such a surface has, so you do have alternatives to spraying.

But no matter what else is said, if you can spray, do so.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #527 of 540 Old 08-10-2007, 10:12 AM
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Thanks MM for the quick reply. And yes I did take a short cut with my pj. I've put together a native 720p pj including screen for under $500.00. While raising my 5 kids I need to settle for poor mens projects.

Ok as for my canvas screen it looks like a stretchable, rubberized coated canvas. It has a good clean surface so painting should not be a problem.. I have a 7.5 hp 160 gal compressor so I think I'll buy an HVLP spray gun. But before I get going I have a few additional questions if you don't mind.

1. From your experience do you have a recommendation on a brand of spray gun? Again I'll be using my own Air.

2. Should I use 3 coats of primer then 3 coats of screen mix since I'm not using a mirror surface?

3. Which Screen mix do you recommend? During the day I do have ambient light coming into the room.

And I think that is it for now. Thanks again MM
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post #528 of 540 Old 08-13-2007, 04:45 PM
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[quote=pb_maxxx]i certainly appears that Delta is no longer carrying the pale metallic gold...
therefore, i no choice to make a component change for both rsm and rsm ll.

Would that be the 2624 Metallic Pale Gold Transparent? That is still listed on Delta's website. Maybe Decoart might have a compatable product.
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post #529 of 540 Old 08-18-2007, 11:58 AM
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Well I am finally ready to paint my screen, but after reading the Wagner booklet I am a little concerned. My plan is to paint it down in the basement (don't know if I could even get it out of there), but I didn't want to cover everything. What I would like to do is create a wall (of painters plastic wrap) between the screen and the rest of the room. However the manual says not to, as it could create a spark which would ignite the fumes. Is this the worst case scenario and something that I really shouldn't worry about, or should I not do it (even if I didn't I would still have to have painter wrap all around the room which could create a spark there too).
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post #530 of 540 Old 12-05-2007, 12:46 PM
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Hello,

I've been reading this and another thread for a while now and I was wondering if I could get some final advice on the best paint mix to use. I'm about ready to just to pick one because any one of these combinations will no doubt work better than projecting on a plain white wall. haha

Anyways, I'm using the Panasonic AX-100U, in a completely light controlled room. The screen will be 127" diagonal, and the wall is already primed. Also, I think I'm going to spray if that makes a difference.

Thanks
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post #531 of 540 Old 12-05-2007, 10:03 PM
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If you been reading this and another thread you should already know which mix to use. Most of them have been talked about in this thread alone adnausium.

Rob

ÂThe sheriff and his buddies with their samurai swords.....Â
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post #532 of 540 Old 12-06-2007, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHP Man View Post

6000 lumens at 3450k.

WT H-E-Double Hockey Stick. You could watch this thing while sun tanning!!!

My DIY Rack
I took the RED pill.    ...and still haven't swallowed the BLUE pill.

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post #533 of 540 Old 12-06-2007, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcmo View Post

... However the manual says not to, as it could create a spark which would ignite the fumes. Is this the worst case scenario and something that I really shouldn't worry about, or should I not do it (even if I didn't I would still have to have painter wrap all around the room which could create a spark there too).

Since you're not spraying anything that is normally combustible I, personally, wouldn't be very concerned about blowing myself up. I think they are just covering they hinder parts in case someone sues them.

With water-based materials, such as latex paint, there are no flammable fumes to ignite. I guess there would still be an EXTREMELY small chance that paint particles could build up in the air and you could have a "flour plant" type of explosion, but I honestly doubt it.

However; since you will be spraying a BIG screen (lots of paint needed) in a confined space, I HIGHLY recommend using a breathing respirator, and I don't mean a hospital-type dust mask. Lowe's and Home Depot have ones made by 3M for about $30. It's money well spent. I learned the hard way... no permanent damage, but many hours of breathing discomfort after I had finished spraying.
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post #534 of 540 Old 08-23-2008, 03:12 AM
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..........will do.

Just a Bump to re-establish a presence to a Thread that helped get the whole "Ambient Light Performance" thing going.

Although RS-MaxxMudd cannot perform up to the standards of Silver Fire or Black Widow in ambient light situations, it remains an excellent choice for dedicated Theaters and controlled lighting situations where the Projector's Contrast could use significant boosting, but no attenuation or crushing of colors/whites can be tolerated.

If for no other reason, it needs to be reviewed because it makes a good read that helps educate the reader on the premise of combining different paints and Additives to allow them all to compliment each other's properties.

Yes, there are simpler means now existing that can do much of the same thing, and advanced Mixes that can outperform RS-MaxxMudd in the "Ambient Light" department, but this mix contains nothing that is likely to be hard to locate "locally" or "Back-Ordered" due to a "Demand greater than Supply" situation.

Note: The following substitution (...in Red...) was made over 1 year ago due to the discontinuance of this 'Blue highlighted' ingredient. 2 oz. Delta Pale Metallic Gold #02624

16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601
8 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603
10 oz. UPW flat
2 oz. FolkArt Metallic Antique Gold #658 (mfg. Plaid)
14 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
14 oz. distilled/tap water

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post #535 of 540 Old 04-02-2010, 03:44 PM
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Ka-Bump

This Thread needs to be available for those who want answers to a great many questions, as well as more than a few Member testimonials about RS-MaxxMudd

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post #536 of 540 Old 06-02-2011, 10:20 AM
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Ditto Bumpin'

A great reference Thread for Beginners to overview.

But always post up on a Current Thread, or PM before starting up anything. Ingredients for RS-MaxxMudd have changes up a bit. Look to the post above to be edited to reflect those changes soon.

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post #537 of 540 Old 06-02-2011, 02:18 PM
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I'm a bit of an idiot... does the satin finish go on after the other paints or is it just mixed in with the rest if them and goes on all at once?

edit:
I've been out and bought all the ingredients. I'm going to paint this directly on my wall and wonder if the added water is going to make this too thin to paint on a vertical wall.
Before I go and mix everything together I need to know if i'm doing it right.

I'm assuming you just mix everything together in those quantities except for the polycrylic finish which you brush on afterwards. Is that right?
I really could use some instructions
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post #538 of 540 Old 01-26-2012, 11:38 AM
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poor guy... hope someone answered his question.

no poly topcoats! while some folks tried it back in 2004 with rs-maxxmudd, we've always maintained the position that along with the adverse aspects of sheen as topcoat... the picture will be also be slightly de-focused resulting in loss of detail.

still somehow it was resurrected when wilson-art became popular... to try and removed the hot-spot from the the designer grey. and again, while it did help remove/lessen the hotspot... it was once again proven to result in picture fuzziness/loss of detail.
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post #539 of 540 Old 01-29-2012, 07:25 PM
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2 Last questions for you MM

My painter has the ingredients and gun to shot the Mudmaxx v2.1 Retro and is all ready to go.

1. Base coat or Primer. What is the best product to use? I assume it is 3 coats are your prior posts stated.

2. If you know anything about Epson 3010, I have 9' ceiling and plan on shooting it in a downward fashion but do not want a pole to obstruct the very back of the room since the treadmill etc is back there and would like to watch the screen. Any suggestions. (bought the 3010 last night)

Epson 3010
B&W Center
M&K S125 R&L
B&W side channels
Triad Rear channels
Klipsch Reference RW-12d
M&k 10" sub
Onkyo 7.2 THX Receiver
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post #540 of 540 Old 01-30-2012, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indpowr View Post

2 Last questions for you MM

My painter has the ingredients and gun to shot the Mudmaxx v2.1 Retro and is all ready to go.

1. Base coat or Primer. What is the best product to use? I assume it is 3 coats are your prior posts stated.

If spraying, use Zinnser BullsEye 123 thinned to the point is sprays easily.
Yeah...3 coats, with the 2nd coat getting a very light "brush sanding".

Quote:


2. If you know anything about Epson 3010, I have 9' ceiling and plan on shooting it in a downward fashion but do not want a pole to obstruct the very back of the room since the treadmill etc is back there and would like to watch the screen. Any suggestions. (bought the 3010 last night)

yeah...move the Treadmill. Dude, the 3010 has NO Image Offset and NO Lens shift. The center line of the Lens is the top/or bottom of the image dependent upon the mounting.

Yes...it has Digital Keystone-ing, but I advise you to have at least a 6" drop between the ceiling and the mount/PJ, so your ddwnward tilt is minimized as much as possible.

Do you have Attic access above where the PJ will go? Even if not, a combo of the Chief RPA 168 Mount and a Peerless ACC-570 ceiling Plate w/2" Nipple between them will leave your PJ's "bottom at 7' 2" on a 8' ceiling.

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