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Originally Posted by biglyle
"please, let's not get bogged down by whether or not it was appropriate to compare against silverscreen. i think there was nothing wrong with it. the next step should be to throw in some poly and metalics. i made some suggestions in my previous post."
No one is getting bogged down over anything, I was simply responding to MM's post, and I did it in civil manner so I dont see the problem.
My shots were using poly and metallics. I used a full strength BF against a BF minus the colors add medium grey. Remeber in my shots that my screen is already quite grey.
Originally Posted by bruce can
Movie what are you actually trying to do ?
I agree that different screen shots are not good comparisons for a couple of reasons but
What the hell would an all white screen prove ?
I am curious in what you are actually trying to prove or LEARN from all this .
Originally Posted by ender611
the ambient light and angle of view would be the two important variables.
I was thinking, like in my case with an aging X1, which may be replaced with a higher lumen projector in a year or two, two gauge how brightness increase affects the samples. Dismount the projector after the first tests and set it up on the table 5 feet in front of the screens to triple those lumens and see the effect.
Also there could be an 'out of the box' projector setting for all samples, and then a shot individually avi'd to each. Guess this is allot of work.
Originally Posted by mission313
That is a good idea, but outside of a light fusion scenario I can't really see where it would matter. A reflective surface is a reflective surface ;) and that we can calculate using mathmatics!
Originally Posted by MississippiMan
If that's OK with everyone, that is. :confused:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan
Mission 313, you've got a PM
Movielvr2006, you might want to extend that deadline to Tuesday or Wendesday to let a few have time to consider. The Weekend is always slow on this Forum.
|biglyle (post #136)
50ml delta ceramcoat pearl
50ml delta ceramcoat metallic silver
50 ml folk art sterling silver metallic
50 ml delta ceramcoat white
50 ml minwax acrylic poly - satin
100 ml delta ceramcoat interior matte varnish
1 tsp delta ceramcoat burnt umber
25 ml water
rolls like a champ, and after a few days of curing looks as good as any screen I have seen.
EDITED - SHOULD BE 100ML of the MATTE VARNISH, NOT 50ML
mississippiman (post #147)
3 examples of Black Flame. The darkest on a Full Size Mirror. a "Lite" and "Super Lite" on Do-Able Boards.
A reference Gray screen (newly painted with the majority's suggestion)
A Sony Chroma View.
Benven's CG Plus & CGII
BigLyle's something, if applicable.
Mission 313's best offering.
At least one other example from anybody.
a 800 Lumen PJ
a 1100 to 1500 Lumen PJ
a 2500+ Lumen PJ
I can, if I do this here close to home, assure that all the examples will be at least 24" x 36" and can all be shown simultaneously, imposed upon the 140" screen shown in this Post. The screen shown here is 122" x 69" so there is plenty of room to do 'em all at once, besides doing 3-4 at a time.
benven (post #149)
MM thanks for the shots. The BF has a bit more pop than the gray screen. However, I would like to see a higher gain gray screen in the comparison. You can obtain a Firehawk sample quite easily. I for one would like to see it in your shootout. CG II would be a good mix to compare against. It isn't the light buster that CG Plus is, but there are the cone issues with the higher gain CG Plus.
schooner2000 (post #164)
Could one not use SS as a base and add some SM and Minwax or similar to get the same results but easier?
Camelot_One (post #165)
Exactly what I'd like to know. I am assuming you have the full BF Light Fusion setup for the main screen, with the LF portion making up a large part of the difference in color quality against the plain flat SS. I know it defeats a good portion of the design idea, but I'd like to see BF against SS on a hardboard, or perhaps with the SS base - SS/Minwax mix top coat.
movielvr2006 (post #177)
personally, i don't think it's appropriate to just use screenshots from movies. the content on one test panel is going to be different than on the other. i would prefer to see some white screens also. i think another good comparison would be white text against a black background.
i have a question for those taking photos (mississippiman, pbmaxxx, biglyle, etc.). how are you taking the photos with your cameras? are you using spot metering? i would suggest using spot metering on the black flame before taking the picture. if that is consistently done, then the comparisons will be that much better.
if anyone could suggest how we can standardize the ambient light comparisons also, i would like to hear that.
i would like to see the following comparisons also:
neutral gray latex - 75%
minwax polycrylic - 25%
(try to match the same shade of the black flame)
silver+pearl metalic - 55%
neutral gray latex - 16%
minwax polycrylic - 20%
water - 9%
(again, try to match the shade of black flame)
i think these two mixes would tell us a lot.
mission313 (post #186)
Based on those screenies, I would throw in 313HC and bet it would be competitive not to mention you can add an extra top coat or 2 to bump the gain if so desired. (Note I haven't tested more than 2 top coats which is almost a 1.0 peak gain.)
Basically there are 4 ingredients:
- Rustoleum Painters Touch Flat Black Latex #1976 (8oz can) $4
- Kilz2 Latex Primer (Quart) $8
- American Traditions Faux Acrylic Flat Latex Clear Protector#64675 (Quart) $10
- Behr Premium Plus Pearlescent White Opal #751 (Quart) $17
- The Formula with at least enough for a 94" screen possibly up to 110"
Part 1 - Top Coat
-31oz of White Opal Pearl
-10oz of KILZ2
-8oz of the Clear Protector (I was thinking about increasing this to 16oz)
-1oz of the Flat Black
Part 2 - The Base
-22oz of the Kilz 2 ( the remainder of the can)
-1 oz of the flat black (well not exactly maybe just a little more, I really kept adding just a few drops until it was just a hair lighter than the top coat.)
- 2 Coats of the base.
- 2 Coats of the topcoat. (You may try adding more topcoats to increased gain of course at the expense of viewing cone.....)
ender611 (post #192)
mission, putting the same color bar for consistency on each test panel would be a must to see the consistency ( and it would also be good to rotate the panels to make sure one isn't advantaged by being in the brighter part of the picture ). But just going back to the reasoning behind the long graduated grey and color bars. There is a tendency for white screens to always win out over grey just because by comparing them side by side people usually like the brighter colors better and profess them as more accurate which they are.
But when the grey screen is by itself the mind creates its own references with what its given and a non the less beautiful image is formed. These graduated color bars could demonstrate that maybe in one screen the mid reds are brighter in relation to the darkest green and stuff like that giving the image what seems to be more pop. It could even help tweak future screens with appropriate colors. It might give something substantial as to why translucent colors are better then opaque black as a greying choice. Be neat to have something to plot on a graph anyway. Just recalling what Tryg pointed out about how easily it was to pick a small red flower out from a mainly brown background is easier on some screens then others and stuff...this may be a way to measure for this type of property.
Originally Posted by movielvr2006
can you give us all an update on where you are with the comparisons? have you reviewed the summary and made any decisions on which comparisons to do?
Originally Posted by movielvr2006
can you provide mississippiman with the graphics file for color bars? as i recall you had worked this out already.