Polyurethane over paint - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 44 Old 03-13-2006, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Polyurethane over paint

Over the weekend I had some time to experiment and to be quite frank this tinkering with the screen is a very bad addiction. Two months ago I thought I had the absolute perfect shade of gray painted on a smooth canvas backing. Whites are bright and blacks very dark. What I also liked was that the surface of the screen was indiscernible once the projector fired up the only clue that there was a screen there was a slight SDE on bright white shots.

Ok why mess with perfection? It gets in your blood that’s why.

I have a test screen I always try things out on first 54x60 and it was painted out exactly as my screen is. I drew a line down the center making two 30 inch half and I bought the totally clear water based Olympic polyurethane in the flattest luster they have and gave one half of my low gain very flat gray screen two coats and left the other half as a control. The poly darkened the gray quite a bit under room lights to more of a med gray. But under extremely low light levels the dark side looked brighter than the un-polyed lighter side. When I projected to it WOW the colors popped and the whites were even whiter despite the darker gray and the blacks were as black if not blacker. The surface had to jump to a 1.5 gain I think. Now for the problem the outer 2/3 of the screen was fantastic the center 1/3 hot spot city.

So I went to far with my approach but I wish I could have maybe got 1/3 the good effects I did from the clear over the gray.

I don’t know of anything that I could coat with to give me a slight push what I bought was as mild as I could find. My thought is in mixing some of the poly into the same gray I had first used as the base for a topcoat to just get a slight bump up.

Yes? No?


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post #2 of 44 Old 03-13-2006, 01:03 PM
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"My thought is in mixing some of the poly into the same gray I had first used as the base for a topcoat to just get a slight bump up."

bud16415,

to negate the hotspotting and give the added push you are looking for... do exactly as you proposed above....

do a 2:1 mix. 2 parts of the olympic urethane to 1 part of your base.
i've done similiar topcoats... it works.
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post #3 of 44 Old 03-13-2006, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pointer. I was surprised you said 2 poly to 1 paint as the ratio. I was about to try killing the poly down with paint but I was going to start with like 4 paint to 1 poly. Only because I had no idea or past experience to judge by.

I will mix a small batch at 2:1 and try another section of the test screen. As I think about it I’m sure you are right. As it shouldn’t take much pigment to take the reflective ness out of something that is clear. In all cases I want to be very careful to document what I did for next time around. Nothing worse than hitting the perfect mix and not being able to duplicate it again.

Thanks again


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post #4 of 44 Old 03-13-2006, 08:56 PM
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check this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...38#post7301638 I just did this with my BEHR SS and all I can say is wow!!! I do have some pics in link of sig.
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post #5 of 44 Old 03-14-2006, 04:17 AM - Thread Starter
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T_MINTON
After reading your posts in the link you attached I see you also have a very bright projector and are projecting to a close size as I am in a similar light controlled room. All things that make me feel good about trying this. I’m trying to sneak up on that point where the screen still has that invisible look to it when the projector is on but the maximum gain I can get to before it becomes a bright hot surface. I know some people like that extra bright look but I’m not one.

One of the things that appeals to me most about front projection is how the screen can be a low luster surface and disappear totally from view. I haven’t seen any type of rear projection or CRT or even plasma that I couldn’t focus on the surface of the screen and any lights in the background wouldn’t cause a reflection. I think the real beauty of DIY is these tiny improvements you can make. I keep thinking what if I would have bought that factory matte white screen I was thinking about at first.


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post #6 of 44 Old 03-14-2006, 06:00 AM
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I am here to tell you based on my own opinion that once you do your own screen you will be glad you didn't buy that factory setup. I can only tell you that my picture, in my opinion as well as those that have seen it, is way better than going out to the movies. I have also seen the more expensive screens in action with even better projectors and was not impressed enough to think "man I wish I had that setup" kinda feeling. This latest developement of mixing 6.5 ounces of BEHR ss to 32 ounces of poly really makes the picture look deeper to me. I mean some scenes look like 3d and I feel like I am in the middle of it. I am really very happy with the results I got.
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post #7 of 44 Old 03-14-2006, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_MINTON
I am here to tell you based on my own opinion that once you do your own screen you will be glad you didn't buy that factory setup. I can only tell you that my picture, in my opinion as well as those that have seen it, is way better than going out to the movies. I have also seen the more expensive screens in action with even better projectors and was not impressed enough to think "man I wish I had that setup" kinda feeling. This latest developement of mixing 6.5 ounces of BEHR ss to 32 ounces of poly really makes the picture look deeper to me. I mean some scenes look like 3d and I feel like I am in the middle of it. I am really very happy with the results I got.
Did you originally have just plain SS and then added the top coat mix?
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post #8 of 44 Old 03-14-2006, 06:27 AM
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Just as a side note: Polyurethane has a tendency to meld with previous layers of polyurethane.. You arent really top coating over the old stuff, the new layer will infuse/melt with the old layer.... hope that makes sense...

I do a lot of woodworking, and polyurethane is one of the toughest finishes, because each additional layer just adds to the original layer, so in the end, you have 1 layer and not multiples...

What I am saying is that you could have some bleed through of these mixtures the more coats you add..... So be aware when you finally get something you like it might not be as simple as the last coat you added...

On the paint side, bleed through can also happen to some extent... if you have a dark basecoat and try and paint over it, your top color could look darker. That is why certain paints take multiple coats to get right.. My family used to own a hardware store when I was growing up. The WORST color to paint over top of, is yellow... Yellow just loves to bleed through most all top coats. Not that you are using yellow, but you get the gyst.
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post #9 of 44 Old 03-14-2006, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Did you originally have just plain SS and then added the top coat mix?
yes I had 3 coats..
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post #10 of 44 Old 03-14-2006, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Great input guys. I can hardly wait to drag the test screen out once again. I do know about the additive effect of some of these mixes and repeated coats that’s why I keep testing on new areas of the test screen so that when I do get a result I like I can duplicate it. I hate reading a post where someone said I had about a half a quart of this and I didn’t have that so I used this instead and then I added it to my remix of these two things and put on 2 light coats over my old screen that had something I forget what it was and when I did it worked beautifully

That’s a bit of a stretch but I have read a few close to that. Everyone should be careful to try and document what they try when something works then o back and duplicate it again. I also like when someone is talking about a new mix that works they give the projector and light issues and substrate they put it on as those things have as much to do with how it looks as the coating does.

By the way mine is over canvas Sharp XR10X in light tight room 72x96


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post #11 of 44 Old 03-14-2006, 10:03 AM
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ok. mine is over bo cloth. 3 coats SS with a topcoat of Poly 32oz / and 6.5 oz of SS.
NEC HT 1000 at 15 feet ceiling mounted. go to my gallery and look at Gen. Grevious and check the detail in the "face"
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post #12 of 44 Old 03-18-2006, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks again to all that have posted. I finally had time to play with my test screen. Something I highly recommend to the tinkering DIYer I have divided my 4x5 foot test canvas screen into 4 quarters and left one my matte gray silver leaf paint one is pure poly top coat that really darkened the basecoat. I think in part by what Grouchiegrumble stated above it combining with the paint. And my first poly paint blend went on this morning in its quarter. I know pb_maxxx suggested 2 ploy 1 paint but call me thick headed I went 1:1. I after drying I was surprised I could hardly see a line between my base and the top coat as to the shade of gray. Didn’t darken it at all like the poly did and to see it I had to look at a slight angle. Let it dry and turned on the projector. The poly top coat still hot spot city after a week drying. (big surprise huh) the control looked just like my screen behind it (another big surprise) and the 1:1 mix came to life. The image shown there looked like it got a gain kick of maybe (.2) when screen shot was white or light playing thru this area and the control the whites popped nice at the same time blacks bridging the two areas didn’t change and if there was a slight change the 1:1 side looked darker. Not sure why. The colors took on a nice punch also. Not huge but you could see the increase. Skin tones lost the gray over cast that I didn’t know was there until I saw them side by side. All my settings on the projector were set to zero and colors didn’t need anything to my eye. Even though I’m running in eco mode I had brightness turned up a little bit before. I set that back to zero and it’s a bit brighter than it was before. Where the pure poly was put on even in the areas that were not hot spotting I was aware of the screen surface. With the 1:1 mix there is no indication of where the image is projected on truly 3D just like the base coat alone made it.

So what’s next? Pb_maxxx was probably right. My next post will be saying he is right. I just haven’t tried it yet. 2:1 poly paint. I think there is at least one more improvement left in this system. I will post back with those results. I will also see if I can get a photo of the test screen that shows what I’m actually seeing and post it.

I want to press the brightness issue up one step at a time till I reach a point where the bad effects of the combination screen and my projector become apparent. I wouldn’t recommend just coping my set up but copy the approach I’m using if you want to soup up your gray screen.

There is another thread running now concerning silver screen as a starting paint. That thread has went a little out of control. But some good things have come out of it in the form of learning for me. I have never used Behr Silver Screen paint. I might have tried it but I was started down a different path before I heard about it and didn’t back up. All the powers to be on both sides of the gray fence seem to agree that silver screen has an inherent blue push to some degree and because of that the doctoring process begins as soon as the can is opened so to speak by adding burnt umbers etc.

I strongly suggest if you want to build a screen based around the grays and then after finding that right gray to function with your projector and finally adjusting that gray to the gain you feel is right. I don’t care what brand of paint you use but have it mixed from the flattest base, have them add only black as a pigment and then adjust the gain last by top coating with a mixture of that color and clear polyurethane also in the lowest luster you can find.

Some things I learned along the way.
Flat poly has the flattening agents added to it and they sit on the bottom of the can. Stir it every time.
Making a screen from canvas works. It takes some work to build it right but when you paint it it’s almost impossible to screw it up. I painted 48 sq ft of it with a 4 inch brush. It soaks in and covers coat after coat without brush marks like you get painting a hard surface.
Build a test screen first. It will let you learn first how to make a screen and then let you experiment with paints before they go on the real screen.

I’ll post back when I take it the next step.


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post #13 of 44 Old 03-19-2006, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I painted out the last 2 quarters of my test screen this morning one with a 2:1 poly to paint mix and 3:1 mix also just to see what would happen.

2:1 bumped everything up just as I expected and 90% of the content viewed was improved that next incremental step above the 1:1 mix. But that 10% the extremely light stuff that is also bright. Light blue daytime ski, snow covered mountains etc. I don’t want to use the term hot spot because it wasn’t quite to that gain but hot enough I could tell there was a screen there. The 3:1 mix yes too much gain. Not like the straight poly but enough it was spilling into the medium bright colors.

I’m sure my results also are compounded by my 2000 lumen projector. But for me I think I found the limit. I could look into a 1.5:1 mix but I think I’m going to play it safe and go with the 1:1 top coat.

I also played around with is the poly and paint mix opaque or translucent? And I had some 1:1 mix left over and I painted it over a variety of old test cards in a assortment of shades and finishes. Just one coat and with no special attempt to really lay the paint on thick and they all looked the same to me when I projected on them. IMO the poly acts as a way to increase the surface luster of the paint. It also slightly changes the gray at least to the eye by making it look slightly lighter but it’s a very slight change. Now when I put pure poly over paint it made the gray darken a lot. The ironic part of this is even though the gray went dark and seemed to enhance the dark end of the colors like you would want to see IMO the surface of the poly worked on the bright end and hot spotted. I don’t know what to make of this just reporting what I see.

Looking at the area on the test screen that I plan on adapting into my large screen next. The one coat of half poly half paint over the matte gray silver leaf. Is as good as I think I can do. (for now anyways)

On a scale of 1 to 100 I feel I’m in the 97-99 range of seeing the absolute best image this projector can produce. Sitting 14 foot from the screen it looks more vivid than any movie theater I have even been in. every color looks true I’m seeing lots of detail down in the black end of the spectrum. I just covered the top half of the screen with a sheet of BOC to compare to the gray at my max gain paint and it’s so far from being close I can’t describe it. No blacks flat colors etc. there may be a projector out there that matches up perfectly to raw BOC that I don’t know. But I’m 100% behind tweaking your way to the right gray and then maximizing your gain in that shade.

So I’m ready to go on record that gray screens are a viable method of producing a very high quality DIY screen. I had the chance to watch a friend’s new large plasma the other day. And I did what everyone does and almost put my nose on it I was so close. It was playing a HD signal and I have never seen any image more perfect. I backed up until I was viewing it in about the same field of vision I would be watching my projected screen from. Now his was in a fairly lighted room for sure not light controlled. But giving me the advantage of light control and the extra distance from the screen to view from. He only had me by a small margin in picture quality. My guess 10 to 15% but he doesn’t sit 5 feet back from it where I was viewing he sits almost the same distance back I do. When I viewed it from back there it was no contest in my mind. His picture was still awesome. And maybe I’m getting to used to being immersed in my full vision a image. But I would take my setup any day.


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post #14 of 44 Old 03-19-2006, 03:28 PM
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just double checking...this is the behr premium plus with style crystal clear water-based polyurethane no 780 clear matte? and this stuff will hotspot unless some flat paint is mixed in? I was thinking of using it as a final coat to tame things down but by itself it looks like that wouldn't have worked very well.
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post #15 of 44 Old 03-20-2006, 04:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ender611
just double checking...this is the behr premium plus with style crystal clear water-based polyurethane no 780 clear matte? and this stuff will hotspot unless some flat paint is mixed in? I was thinking of using it as a final coat to tame things down but by itself it looks like that wouldn't have worked very well.
It’s clear polyurethane water based and the brand I used was Olympic. I actually had them open 3 cans and mix them. We put a dab on 3 paint chip cards in the gray I used and dried the samples. They all looked almost the same I picked the Olympic for no real reason they are all the same I think. Some are called acrylic on the can some say polyurethane. The Olympic mixed well with the American Traditions latex paint and stayed mixed the next day. Depending on your projector and shade of paint you are going over you may be alright with pure poly over paint. That I don’t know. What I tried to do in this thread is more explain the process of what I was doing for others to follow than make a recommendation on what paint poly combo to use.
If you have a Sharp XR10X in a totally light tight room shooting on a 72x96 screen made from artist canvas I would say go for my mix. Other wise I would say go the road of experimentation for now.

My hope is someday the state of the art of this will be that a person could say I have XYZ projector shooting to an ABC size screen in a room with this much ambient light and we could spit out a paint mix and top coat for them. I don’t think we are quite there yet. If more people work thru the process and post their results there should be more to pick from.

Keep in mind this is the simplest of screen solutions. It’s just gray paint raised to the max gain a given projector will allow. I personally have had great results with this method. I don’t know if with a lower lumen projector the results would have been as impressive or as easy to get to. My thoughts are still its easier to paint a medium to low gain screen than a high one.


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post #16 of 44 Old 03-20-2006, 06:50 AM
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Bud,

It's gratifying to hear about your seeming success at achieving what you had hoped to.

The suggestion of the use of Poly with SS that I made some months back on the SS thread was based on what it obviously brought to the RS_MaxxMud I was using at the time. I had followed and contributed to BCortez's thread since it's inception, and a overriding complaint buried among all the exclamatory posted evaluations by the "KISS" crowd was that it was just too dark. But a little later, as PB_Maxx looked to the efforts of Mission's work and experimented with the use of a Top Coat of MW/BF, it became quite obvious that the MW/Poly could and would ramp up SS's abilities to please a larger, more critical crowd.

PS_Maxx's ratios had to be both heavier as far as the Poly, and lighter as far as the BF mix because the BF at full strength is far darker than SS. That, plus his emphasis for a while has been to make the BF mix more applicable to lower lumen PJs.

For a lighter Grey hue such as you used as a Base coat, and your 2K Lumen output, you made the right choice. Anyway, the point is that recommendations we/I make along these lines are not guesswork, they get posted AFTER they have been proven viable. They are not to be considered the absolute last word, but they should not either be dismissed or dissed by a few at the expense of everyone else.

As I said at the start, I'm glad you decided to give the Poly a whirl. What works for one Grey based application can and probably does for another if it's done correctly. and the variables you tried have help narrow down the range of experimentation to a definite recommendation for others. THAT is what DIY "sharing" is about. Providing knowledge and help via actual examples to those who need/request it, through posts/PMs/or personal interaction. Those who only complain or discredit can't really offer anything but the same.

It's all the better anyway when someone attempts the detailed trials that you did instead of just blindly going with a suggestion, because if one does have the time and can spend the effort required, then they have all the better grasp of why they reached the point they did, and express the reasons much better for others to learn from.

In the excitement of bringing such 'proven' ideas to the many who cannot/will not make the effort you did, it is required that you express yourself in superlatives if:

1. You really believe in what your posting.
2. You want to prompt a "fence Sitter" into action.

But some will read into that an attempt to place your suggestions above all others, especially if you both get a lot of responses, and continue to express the same viewpoint in your many subsequent posted replies. It's a "no Win" if a few want to take issue with you for "being there" all the time.

Sometime ago, when this this Forum was part of "Screens", it was filled with people asking questions about DIY, but very few screens were being made beyond BO cloth and White Paint (...excepting Goo screens which at the time was the only quality DIY app around.) A main emphasis was made by a few during the SM/MM craziness for people to "Just Do It" as far as making their various attempts, and all in all, that's what happened.

Nowadays, there are many more choices. Examples such as yours help 2 ways. Some will read your results, dispense with any "experimentation" and go straight to getting with it. Others will use your example and get the "Virus" and start doing their own testing.

In the end, it is always best for the actual "Do'ers" to make the effort to validate claims made by others, no matter how incredible the screenies. When that happens, usually all the 'questions' and recriminations (...if any...) against a particular application will stop. Usually.

I'm sorry if it seems that I helped spin the other "SS as a Base" thread out of control, but when I see things posted, and directions being taken that have never proved out to being worth doing after "hundreds" of previous posts and attempts, it does seem pertinent to let people know. In actuality, doing such can save many a lot of grief and wasted effort. Had it been BCortez, T_Minton, or even yourself, no doubt the response would not have been "Stop Promoting". Alan wrote to me to say that I should just let others find their own way through the "Learning Curve" but that is very hard to do when over the last few years I have seen so many posts lamenting failed efforts and the time/expense that was wasted.

The real issue is for people to keep open their minds to both new ideas and existing proven applications as well. We can all benefit if everyone works as a Community, instead of factional Groups. Courtesy toward each other is something that makes it all seem fun and worthwhile, and those who do not practice such are not doing anybody any good, but themselves.

If this post seems that I'm singing your praises, while lamenting the lack of other's efforts, I am. Despite what went on "over there" on the other thread, you kept up the spirit of your intentions to find a solution, and did it in a through and evenhanded manner.

A good job excellently done. Congragulations.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #17 of 44 Old 03-20-2006, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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MississippiMan

Thanks for the nice post and for capturing many of my thoughts also. As subjective as I try to be it is hard to not want to show some exuberant emotions when some work you have done has yielded the results you had hoped to see. And it is an incremental process. I remember tacking a bed sheet to the basement wall turning the projector on and feeling like I had just painted the Sistine Chapel. It seemed pretty crazy patting myself on the back for tacking a bed sheet on the wall but I remember calling people up and saying you have to come over and see what I did.

The guy that invented the DLP chip in my case should be getting a good deal of the praise. These modern projectors no matter what type are marvelous inventions to say the least. And that field has changed and will keep changing way ahead of the screens I think.

I know a little horn blowing goes a long way. But I do think you are right I don’t see anything wrong with it and if it motivates a couple people to push the envelope a little farther then that’s great and I will welcome hearing the tone of their horns as well.

I work in a field that no one man could ever grasp in one lifetime. I am constantly reminded that I have to both collaborate and ask for help in areas I don’t understand yet. It makes success no less sweet when it comes though.

I have learned a great deal everyday on here and some of it wasn’t just data and recipes for paint. What happens in a group setting is it allows you to stay engaged to a project knowing others are doing the same. This particular thread started out with me asking a question. I could have gone ahead and tried it and reinvented the wheel I was ready to do that if I didn’t get any reply. But it was nice to see I wasn’t the first to do something and get a starting point far different that what I first thought. The SS thread I have been in but without T_MINTON pointing out the page I wouldn’t have looked there.

As to get back on some kind of topic here related to paints for screens. I think I will have to go buy some silver screen just so I can say I have seen it. I’m tempted to paint a sample of silver screen and a sample of silver screen with a poly/paint wash over it. Just as if someone told me to try it out. Not that I want to disprove anything about silver screen just that I’m curious as to how it would match up with my projector.

And after that who knows maybe I’ll be so bold as to name a paint mix after myself. :D
But for now maybe I can be “bud16415 gray paint process†as opposed to all the other gray paint processes. :rolleyes:


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post #18 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 07:06 AM
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keep going Bud...it's addictive. I am even thinking of a project today...are we ever really satisfied???
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post #19 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 07:13 AM
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@ T_MINTON & Bud...

get rid of your colds while you still can... before i becomes a full blown fever like mine.

my wife hates me. she can't watch anything without a test screen plastered on our actual screen.

antibiotics are useless. beware.

do they have a DIY anonymous yet?!
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post #20 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 07:18 AM
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"my wife hates me. she can't watch anything without a test screen plastered on our actual screen."

Our wives have a lot in common

"The only reason you're still conscious is because I don't want to carry you" - Jack Bauer
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post #21 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 07:33 AM
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LOL..THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT MY WIFE SAYS..LOL SHE SAYS IF i KEEP PAINTING i WILL RUIN IT!!!!!!!!!!
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post #22 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_MINTON
keep going Bud...it's addictive. I am even thinking of a project today...are we ever really satisfied???
Gentlemen, I assure you there's hope. I have NOT changed my screen in over two years!!!
With all the trials and tribulations I can confirm the more you test screen options the more you conclude they are ALL compromises. There is no perfect reflective surface; just some you prefer more than others.
As they say in Sharktale, "Find your happy place." Enjoy.
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post #23 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 08:12 AM
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CMRA,

this must be your plea for help...

sounds like D-E-N-I-A-L to me!!!

admit it... you're just itchin' to update it.

....scatch... nervous shake... scratch...
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post #24 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx
CMRA,

this must be your plea for help...

sounds like D-E-N-I-A-L to me!!!

admit it... you're just itchin' to update it.

....scatch... nervous shake... scratch...
Well, you know MM was out this way armed with his 'magic' black flame formulation. ( Hope yours is different.)
He loves it. I passed. Nuff said.
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post #25 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 08:37 AM
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we are two different people... with differing tastes...

he likes the dark stuff... i like the light stuff. he prefers a mirror... i don't...
he prefers heineken... give me a 'dew' :D

... now where's my tylenol cold and flu medicine?
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post #26 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 08:52 AM
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Somebody Just Shoot Me Now Before I Get Into Trouble....
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post #27 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Haven’t looked at my own thread in a few days. As I’m trying to cut back. But have an overpowering urge to smell some water based poly drying.

I will get my fix this weekend as I now plan on top coating the real screen with a slightly more than 1:1 ratio mix. I know you guys have done it so many time taking the paint to a screen you just love the picture on but I’m rather new to that and I still get the rush in anticipation.

As for the wife issues when I first took over the basement. Only room she would let me have I declared it the “man’s room†and it was off limits without an invitation. Did that work? No but she’s just so glad that behemoth screen is not in the living room that she’ll let me play as I will.

As for the comments above about the perfect screen I have known from the onset that perfection was not attainable. But I think after getting this gain adjusted that will be the end of the road for this actual screen. It will be used till the projector is replaced I hope. Don’t get me wrong the hobby / addiction will continue. All these test screens may just take on a new role as systematically testing these brews you guys list as the end alls to end all mixes.

It’s true how each person has a taste for what type of screen projector combo works for them I personally am in the high lumen camp and then get all the light I need from a lower gain screen with a very wide field of view that seems to be less susceptible to ambient light issues. Even though I’m bumping the gain up on my screen I still don’t think I’m going be much past 1.0. It’s strange I’m thinking of a 1.0 gain screen as being as bright as I dare go and then I go over and read others posts that they want a 5 or 6 gain screen.

I should be posting new pictures over the weekend that is if the wife don’t have other plans for me. :eek:


Bud

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post #28 of 44 Old 03-23-2006, 12:20 PM
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bud16415,

i just repainted my personal screen last night... it's been nearly a month of test screen comparisons against it and other test screens... so it was due! :D

i started at 1:00am in the morning... so in between coats... i slept on the couch.
i have a feeling i'll be sleeping on the couch again tonight... even if i begged for forgiveness. :(

i tested it before going to work this morning (hey, i got a day job too... diy screens is just a hobby)... and i was very pleased with it... so i can't see doing this again for a while.

unless of course... i move to a wxga projector... and a 2:35 format.
i've been thinking about getting hitachi's wxga projector.
if i do, then i'd consider a 10ft. wide... ever so slightly curved screen.

with respect to my personal tastes... i've made several higher gain test screens... but i can't stand the quick drop off and narrow viewing cones. i don't want to be limited to a dedicated theater room, and my house is an open plan, so it has to have some degree ambient viewing. even with a dedicated room, i wouldn't be happy with an entirely white screen because they appear to be kind of ghostly and/or slightly washed out to me.

i do however, keep an open mind on color of, makeup of, components of... nor do i heed to 'it's not really possible to'...

and therein lies my DIY sickness.
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post #29 of 44 Old 03-25-2006, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Well it’s complete. I mixed the topcoat this morning 50-50 poly and paint and brushed a coat on. After reading 100’s of posts about people struggling and sanding and repainting screens and walls I cant stress enough how nice canvas is to paint. I really just brushed it on with a 4 inch brush and it spreads out and soaks in and I cant see a brush mark anyplace, just the slightest of texture of the canvas. Drying time was about 2 hours and I watched snowboarding on it as it dried. The wet paint was glossy and spotty and as it dried it evened out and the screen surface just vanished. I will not touch this screen again. The topcoat gave me just the bump in gain I wanted and I actually will set the brightness setting back about 10 clicks for lights out movies. For normal TV viewing sports etc I was watching today with two 75 watt floods full on directly over my viewing area. More than enough light to read by and picture was 95% as bright would be my guess. If I had to guess my gain is around 1 now and no comparison to a 1 gain white screen image in terms of blacks and also contrast.

So here is my final specs on the system if anyone wants to know for comparison to something they may want to do.
Projector Sharp XR10X mounted 14.5 feet running in eco mode with all settings set to zero projecting to a canvas screen 72x96 painted with the following.

Paint from Lowes American Traditions / base is the lowest luster matte finish. The paint spec is “Silver Leaf†4006-1A I had them read back to me the paint mix and it consisted of black and burnt umber as the only tints. I had them add the black and the substitute black for the burnt umber so that the only pigment in the paint was black. The screen was painted with 3 coats of the paint. Over 3 days no sanding. Then it was given one coat of the same paint mixed 50-50 with water based polyurethane the brand I used was Olympic.

This process lead to great results with the sharp 2000 lumen DLP projector


Bud

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post #30 of 44 Old 03-25-2006, 09:42 PM
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Bud can we get some pics?? I was looking at maybe canvas for a larger screen..
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