Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 16 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: What are your screen requirements? (Pick as many as apply)
I want something that is easy to install. 423 18.52%
I want something as inexpensive as possible. 370 16.20%
I want something less than $100. 269 11.78%
I am willing to spend whatever amount is needed as long as it's the best. 68 2.98%
I want a simple one can painted screen option. 68 2.98%
I want an advanced paint mix screen option. 51 2.23%
I want a single material screen option. 289 12.65%
I want something durable. 270 11.82%
I want an ambient light screen. 244 10.68%
I have light control and want a white screen. 234 10.25%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2284. You may not vote on this poll

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post #451 of 2849 Old 10-03-2006, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

I do have bad news though... Formica will do custom colors, but they require a production run of 50,000 sq ft. So that's 1000 5x10 sheets that would have to be ordered. IF we had a guaranteed 100% undeniable gray that nobody could contest as the premium killer one step gray screen... I don't think we could get 1000 people to order it all in one shot. Plus no matter if we did come up with that Holy Grail color, it is sure to be debated to death, questioned, debunked, or anything else that tends to happen. So I am saying custom colors look to be out of the question, at least from Formica. I'll call the sales people and color lab guys at Wilsonart this week and get back on track with them.

Anyone up for doing some gain tests on the Formica samples?

You know if Formica wants to pull that crap, then you tell them you want it at about $20 a sheet. The way to approach both Wilsonart and Formica is that if they make a suitable grey screen laminate then they have the ability to make money selling it as projection screens.

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post #452 of 2849 Old 10-03-2006, 02:54 PM
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Guys,

I dropped by Lowes and grabbed 10 little squares of Fashion Grey and glued those to a sheet of paper. Size is about 5 x 8" (125 x 400 mm). Taped it up to the screen and saw at least three different shades of Fashion Grey on the screen.

So we have what I believe to be dye lots, for lack of a better term. Some squares were definitely better than others. It was quite noticeable to me that there is a difference.

Just wondering what this will do to us if and when a particular laminate brand and color is determined to be suitable for most people.

I think I am going to do this with Designer White also, just curious.

Rich
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post #453 of 2849 Old 10-03-2006, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richum View Post

Guys,

I dropped by Lowes and grabbed 10 little squares of Fashion Grey and glued those to a sheet of paper. Size is about 5 x 8" (125 x 400 mm). Taped it up to the screen and saw at least three different shades of Fashion Grey on the screen.

So we have what I believe to be dye lots, for lack of a better term. Some squares were definitely better than others. It was quite noticeable to me that there is a difference.

Just wondering what this will do to us if and when a particular laminate brand and color is determined to be suitable for most people.

I think I am going to do this with Designer White also, just curious.

Rich

Interesting observation and I will definitely ask them about color control when I call them.

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post #454 of 2849 Old 10-03-2006, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericglo View Post

You know if Formica wants to pull that crap, then you tell them you want it at about $20 a sheet. The way to approach both Wilsonart and Formica is that if they make a suitable grey screen laminate then they have the ability to make money selling it as projection screens.

Ericglo

Well it may not matter as you will see in a bit when I post the data and graphs. Every one of the samples has a blue green push (red deficient). I'm not sure any of them are really suitable material.

Plus what Marilyn told me on the phone I either misheard her or she was incorrect, because when I got the email with the data, it's 150,000 sq ft minimum order for a custom color... that is a huge wow.

This may sound like bad news, but actually it isn't. I say that because it at least eliminated these as viable options. In that sense this was worth it because even though they aren't what we were looking and hoping for, it's clearing the field some.

I'll post the data and let you guys decide, but I don't like the color curves at all on any of the six samples. I looked through everything they had and these six were the best looking candidates to me. I guess we could get some data on some different colors, but I don't think we will see much difference and like I said, the rest of the colors didn't really look suitable to me.

Looks like we're moving on to Pionite next...

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post #455 of 2849 Old 10-03-2006, 04:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the raw data for the Formica Samples:

Here is the raw data for the Wilsonart Samples:

Now for the graphs.

Formica Graph

Wilsonart Graph

They sampled at D75 = north sky daylight 7500o Kelvin for the Formica samples. Why they didn't sample at D65 I'm not sure, so I am having these numbers double checked. I'll have updated charts soon.

Here is the full chart they sent me if anyone wants to cross reference things...

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post #456 of 2849 Old 10-03-2006, 05:35 PM
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The figures line up fine as far as I can see. The Wilsonart was sampled at C illuminant 2° observer, the Formica at D75 10°. The RGB values are still correct in both cases.

There's really nothing wrong with a little red deficiency, it might even help with incandescent ambient light, since it is high on the red/yellow end. It's interesting to note that the main difference between their "Neutral White" and "Bright White" is a blue push... People perceive a slightly blue white as brighter. The Formica grays are a bit on the dark side. For white, it looks like Wilsonart is still king.

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post #457 of 2849 Old 10-03-2006, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Prof for confirming that... saved some time as far as doing any gain tests!

The only one out of the six that I would say is even close to usable is the Neutral White. It is red deficient, Prof even said that may be okay and it's only a few points low. It is the closest to a neutral line than any of the others (Guess Neutral White was a good name then right?)

Here is why I am going to say no to it... It does not match the color curve of known data sampled from actual screen material. I have been thinking this for a very long time now, and even said it a few times and it was dismissed on other threads, although I am not totally sure why... We are always in search of a perfectly neutral screen, be it white or gray. What if that mind set is wrong?

Okay follow me on this, and Clarence, Ericglo, and Prof you guys are the ones I am hoping can think this over and confirm what I am thinking or dispell this once and for all for me... Commercial screen manufacturers have a lot of money they spend on research and development. I don't doubt that the cheaper companies spend less on R&D or are even using inferior screen material actually provided to them by the big companies. That may sound nuts but it's not an unheard of concept. It is done all the time in the electronics field. JVC makes receivers and DVD players for other companies, but they are never as nice or as high of quality as the ones sold under their brand name. The logic makes sense: They make a little money selling inferior units to another company, other wise they would make NOTHING. So a little is better than zero, plus they know people that want quality will buy their brand.

Back to screen manufactures... These large companies literally have millions they spend on R&D for their screens, would everyone agree with that? So if it was possible to create a perfectly neutral screen they would have figured it out. That brings up the question of why they don't make their screens neutral. If they can't, then all this talk and searching for the elusive neutral gray screen in here is meaningless. If companies that have millions at their disposal can't do it, we most certainly can't do it. I don't think that is the case though. I think they can make a screen that is as close to neutral as you can get... so again why don't they?

Below is the original graph of the color swatch that was created back in the Screen Color Match thread, and the one I have posted earlier in this thread too.
All of the commercial screens sampled have a slight green deficiency. Granted this is not every screen out there, but isn't it interesting that every one of the screens that were sampled all have the same basic characteristics?

Now look at the Wilsonart graph again
We see the same characteristics with everything except Pewter.

There has to be a reason why the commercial screens sampled all show the same green deficiency as part of their characteristics. Whatever that reason is, shouldn't we be looking at that as a baseline model when making a DIY screen? I agree that DIY offers a level of customization and the ability to mate a screen to an individual projector that is not economically feasible for the commercial companies. However I really feel that we should be looking at what they do as a foundation.

Prof said before that we all have been conditioned since birth to 'see' colors a little different than they actually are. A pure neutral gray will almost look greenish to most people and is a very ugly color. Someone once said they asked a paint shop if they could mix a neutral gray and the reply was along the lines of 'Why in the world would anyone want an ugly color like that?' Prof suggested one possible reason for the green deficiency was to ensure skin tones don't look greenish. Sure the projector could be adjusted to compensate, but then that screen would be viewed as one that shifts colors and doesn't give a pure image (even if perhaps that image is more realistic, it's not what we perceive as being ideal)

How many have I lost? Check out the special features on Land of the Dead. I have seen this on other DVDs too, but it was the most pronounced on this DVD and special features: They show the closing scene where the heros are driving away in their big rig. The first pass is exactly how the camera filmed it. It was real, but not 'movie real' so they ramped up the colors, darkened the sky, change the whole scene to one that 'looked more real'. I think that same idea of perceived reality comes into play with why they make screens that have a slight green deficiency.

With that said, and if I am even close to right, then if we find a truly neutral screen material, we will skew the colors. The shift may be slight, but it will be a shift none the less. Then we will make adjustments at the projector to take the screen image back towards the desired color balance everyone is used to... so in affect we would be compensating for the screen again and if it was slightly green deficient in the first place perhaps we would have left things alone. Now is what I am saying making sense?

I have also heard that digital projectors, especially LCD projectors have a green push, but I have not seen anything to confirm that, and it really doesn't make sense. If that were the case then there would be screens specifically labeled for LCD only and DLP only... StudioTek isn't exactly known as a budget low quality screen, and it shows these exact characteristics that I am talking about, so we can't say this is a characteristic of inferior screen design.

Wilsonart has the same slight green deficiency, while Formica actually has a slight green/blue push. For whatever reason they did this, Wilsonart unknowingly matches or is very close to matching the same characteristics of quite a few manufactured screens.

In closing, I am in no way saying my thoughts are right or definative, what I am doing is questioning why we see so many screens with a green deficency, and why are we trying to make screens that go against the model that professional screens provide? I feel we start there as the foundation and if need be try to improve things from there... and not reinvent the wheel. Did any of that make sense?

I am very interested to get some data on Pionite now too...

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post #458 of 2849 Old 10-03-2006, 10:42 PM
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I think the commercial screen green deficiency is due to several factors:

1. Too much green makes skin tones look bad; too little is not very noticable.
2. Titanium dioxide/lampblack/raw umber are inexpensive, nontoxic pigments.
3. Effective green pigments are expensive and toxic (cadmium, etc.)
4. A truly neutral screen is ugly when the lights are on.
5. True neutral is only a small advantage - meaningful to us, but probably not to them.
6. A true neutral color would require extremely close manufacturing tolerances.
7. We are the only ones who are crazy enough to care.

Mere speculation on my part, but I believe these factors are enough to prevent the big guys from producing a neutral screen. It is most certainly possible to create one - it's just not that advantageous for the big companies.

Garry
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post #459 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

What screen material is that, Bud-man? Ahem... never mind. I looked further up the and saw it's white pressboard. But I do have a question: is it shiny or matte?

It's a matte finish, to me looks rather good, i was going to paint it, but might just leave it alone.

I'm building a outdoor screen out of some rubberized canvas i bought off e-bay, built the frame last night, before the mosquito's got the best of me and it got too dark.
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post #460 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 04:25 AM
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Thought I'd post briefly as I have been lurking in the corner for a while.
Need to catch up on all the posts in this thread too.
Just got back from Ontario, CA (2nd annual 'Podcast and Portable Media Expo').
Have a very rudimentary set up in the basement.
NEC LT240 DLP projector, rear ceiling mount, projecting onto a plain white wall, 11'x5' image size.
Really want to improve my set up.
Very interested in the laminate option.
Has anyone started a podcast on this topic? (i.e. Home Theater)
It is begging for one if they haven't.
I'd listen to it in a heartbeat.
Anyway, thought I'd crawl out of the corner for a minute and say "Hi!"
[crawls back into the shadows]


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post #461 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 05:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof55 View Post

I think the commercial screen green deficiency is due to several factors:

1. Too much green makes skin tones look bad; too little is not very noticable.
2. Titanium dioxide/lampblack/raw umber are inexpensive, nontoxic pigments.
3. Effective green pigments are expensive and toxic (cadmium, etc.)
4. A truly neutral screen is ugly when the lights are on.
5. True neutral is only a small advantage - meaningful to us, but probably not to them.
6. A true neutral color would require extremely close manufacturing tolerances.
7. We are the only ones who are crazy enough to care.

Mere speculation on my part, but I believe these factors are enough to prevent the big guys from producing a neutral screen. It is most certainly possible to create one - it's just not that advantageous for the big companies.

Garry

Thanks Gary...

I have been wondering for quite awhile if the reason was because a true neutral gray has that green look to most people, so it made sense that it could possibly add a slight green push to the image. So pursuing a neutral screen is worthwhile, but that would be getting to that elusive 99% performance factor wouldn't it?

What about my thoughts about until we nail a neutral, following the model being seen with the commercial screens? That too makes perfect sense to me. It's a foundation for at least providing a very good quality screen that performs in the 95-98% range.

This is why I said a long long time ago that data is very important. Without it we aren't seeing the full 'picture' if you will as far as how professional screens are made. Without understanding that, I was really confused as to how people were coming up with their solutions for DIY. Yes they worked, but they seemed more intuitive than working from a known foundation and then trying to improve and tweak it up.

So Wilsonart still remains the best recommendation so far, and Formica Neutral White should be tested as a white screen option. That is the approach I am going with. We're still missing the elusive gray, but soon we'll have actual field testing with Fashion Grey and I am very interested in those result.

Bill

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post #462 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 05:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Actually Formica Platinum should be added to the list of needing some more data and testing with a bigger sheet. It is 171 174 176, which as can be seen is only a 5 point difference from the high to low. It's not perfectly neutral, but it is a lot flatter than anything I have seen so far. It is a little darker though so keep that in mind. It's no where near as dark as a G2, but it is darker than Wilsonart's Fashion Grey.

Neutral White is 222 227 228.

So as this is starting to digest some, maybe we did find something here. Gary mentioned that a slight red deficiency may be a good thing for incandescent lighting, and both of these are slightly red deficient.

The Sparkle finish adds a sheen and texture to the surface, but the base color is still the same stock. It might be worth getting some gain tests done with both regular samples of Formica Platinum and Neutral White with the matte finish and with the Sparkle finish. Since there is some interest in this it's worth checking. It could actually be a find, and if it turns out it was a bust... we all know now not to buy it, so that was worth the testing right there.

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post #463 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I have to give Formica credit... Marilyn is very easy to work with and is bending over backwards. She reran the samples through the spectrophotometer at the D65 setting. As Prof said, it won't change things much, and Marilyn said the same, but I'd rather keep things all the same so we're not bouncing back and forth between how the data was gathered.

Here is the updated raw data for Formica

I found one last color and am getting the data on it. It's Graystone, and it's a lighter gray so I'm hoping it has some good numbers on it and then we will have three from Formica to test.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GameCoder View Post

Thought I'd post briefly as I have been lurking in the corner for a while.
Need to catch up on all the posts in this thread too.
Just got back from Ontario, CA (2nd annual 'Podcast and Portable Media Expo').
Have a very rudimentary set up in the basement.
NEC LT240 DLP projector, rear ceiling mount, projecting onto a plain white wall, 11'x5' image size.
Really want to improve my set up.
Very interested in the laminate option.
Has anyone started a podcast on this topic? (i.e. Home Theater)
It is begging for one if they haven't.
I'd listen to it in a heartbeat.
Anyway, thought I'd crawl out of the corner for a minute and say "Hi!"
[crawls back into the shadows]

Hi GameCoder! Welcome to the forums

Garry
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post #465 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 09:35 AM
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Just wanted to chime in and say thanks for all the research and testing you guys are doing. I'm hoping to start my HT project in the next couple of months in my light controlled environment and this material seems like a viable option.

Currently thinking about building a curved frame and applying the laminate with industrial velcro. I've been following the thread and understand that the material would be flexible enough but weight might be a concern. I think I can reinforce it enough though to make it work. Any thoughts?

Thanks again and keep up the good work.


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post #466 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud-man View Post

It's a matte finish, to me looks rather good, i was going to paint it, but might just leave it alone.

I'm building a outdoor screen out of some rubberized canvas i bought off e-bay, built the frame last night, before the mosquito's got the best of me and it got too dark.


I was at Lowe's the other day and saw some white press board there for $12 a sheet of 45" x 96". The white side laminate has a matte finish and the backside looks like brown pressboard. I hesitated buying it eventhough the price was right because the ones I looked at were scratched and scuffed on the laminate side.


I went back to Lowes today and checked out the laminated white pressboard and here's the official description:

Thrifty White Smooth Panelboard, 48" x 96" x 1/8" thick. It has a dull (matte?) finish. Price $11.84. Since I'm a newbie on laminates I have no way of comparing this material to Wilsonart Designer White or Pionite or Do-Able or Formica.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

I was at Lowe's the other day and saw some white press board there for $12 a sheet of 45" x 96". The white side laminate has a matte finish and the backside looks like brown pressboard. I hesitated buying it eventhough the price was right because the ones I looked at were scratched and scuffed on the laminate side.

Those panels and the Do-able panels do give some really nice images and you can't beat the price. I have some samples of Do-able that I want to get some color data on and gain tests too.

One thing I have to say about the laminates are they are virtually indestructable as a screen material. I don't know if you read my 'torture test' I ran them through earlier in this thread, but I couldn't damage them with any of the tests. (I soaked them in water to check for water damage, froze them in the freezer because people were expressing interest in using this as an outdoor screen, and nothing phased them). Short of burning them or going at them with a sharp knife, I couldn't dent, ding, mar, discolor, chip, or scratch them in any way.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Just wanted to chime in and say thanks for all the research and testing you guys are doing. I'm hoping to start my HT project in the next couple of months in my light controlled environment and this material seems like a viable option.

Currently thinking about building a curved frame and applying the laminate with industrial velcro. I've been following the thread and understand that the material would be flexible enough but weight might be a concern. I think I can reinforce it enough though to make it work. Any thoughts?

Thanks again and keep up the good work.

Hit up Clarence and Prof about this.. they have some experience with curved screens and should be able to answer your questions real quick.

Weight shouldn't be a problem, and if you think it could be, try going with the vertical grade laminate, it's thinner and lighter but the surface is the same.

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post #469 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

Those panels and the Do-able panels do give some really nice images and you can't beat the price. I have some samples of Do-able that I want to get some color data on and gain tests too.

One thing I have to say about the laminates are they are virtually indestructable as a screen material. I don't know if you read my 'torture test' I ran them through earlier in this thread, but I couldn't damage them with any of the tests. (I soaked them in water to check for water damage, froze them in the freezer because people were expressing interest in using this as an outdoor screen, and nothing phased them). Short of burning them or going at them with a sharp knife, I couldn't dent, ding, mar, discolor, chip, or scratch them in any way.


We have two Lowes stores within 10 miles of each other.... may be I should check out the other one to see if their stock of this laminate is in better condition.
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post #470 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 10:13 AM
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FremontRich-
What size screen do you want and, is your room light controlled? -j
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post #471 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

We have two Lowes stores within 10 miles of each other.... may be I should check out the other one to see if their stock of this laminate is in better condition.

They have to order full size sheets in sizes 4x8 or larger. I'm not sure about Lowes, but my local Home Depot gets their Wilsonart shipments every Thursday. They told me Formica takes a week or two longer, why I don't know.

There are some people saying their local home center store is telling them it can take up to three weeks to come in, so it sounds like it varies from area to area depending on where their supplier is located.

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post #472 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm using the Pionite 813 Ice White laminate, projector is a PLV-Z4, theater room has dark taupe walls with white ceiling and is completely black (can't see a thing) with lights and projector off...

HG57 I can't find the 813 Ice White on their website. When did you buy yours and do you know if they make this anymore?

I only saw two on the site that looked worth getting analyzed, and they were SW8926 Angel White, and SG241 Folkstone Gray. I am very interested in the Ice White in the suede finish. It sounds from what you have said it may perform better with some ambient light so it is next on my list to check out, I just can't locate any information on it!

Earlier it sounded like you were going to do some comparisons with larger sheets of Wilsonart and Formica, did you ever get to do that and how did they turn out? I don't want you or anyone to think this is a Wilsonart only thread, any viable laminate that we can test and get data on is welcome and only helps.

When everything is said and done and we have whites and grays identified from these three companies, there should be a shoot off to determine which one is the best in each color category.

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post #473 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wbassett View Post


When everything is said and done and we have whites and grays identified from these three companies, there should be a shoot off to determine which one is the best in each color category.

That would be great,

Just stopped by my local Lowe's during lunch and they only had a Formica selection no Wilsonart to be found. Didn't bother asking anyone was kind of in a hurry, but I have 3 HD's and another Lowe's within a reasonable distance im sure one of them is bound to have it.

The weight of the material doesn't seem like it would a problem at all. I just need to get started, I have an HVAC guy coming out thursday, then im gonna get some lumber to start the walls.


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post #474 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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How big of a screen are you looking for and is this a dedicated Home Theater room you are building?

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #475 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 12:04 PM
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HG57 I can't find the 813 Ice White on their website. When did you buy yours and do you know if they make this anymore?

I only saw two on the site that looked worth getting analyzed, and they were SW8926 Angel White, and SG241 Folkstone Gray. I am very interested in the Ice White in the suede finish. It sounds from what you have said it may perform better with some ambient light so it is next on my list to check out, I just can't locate any information on it!

Earlier it sounded like you were going to do some comparisons with larger sheets of Wilsonart and Formica, did you ever get to do that and how did they turn out? I don't want you or anyone to think this is a Wilsonart only thread, any viable laminate that we can test and get data on is welcome and only helps.

When everything is said and done and we have whites and grays identified from these three companies, there should be a shoot off to determine which one is the best in each color category.

I have a hard time navigating their website as well, found the following by doing a search on "ice", try searching for white to see a number of others.

http://pionitesamples.recol.biz/Sear...x?KeyWords=ice

Edit: Maybe I should have added that the only reason for me selecting the SW813 Ice white was because it was the closest match to the do-able sample I had. If I had been able to find the do-able board in a 4'x8' sheet I probably would never have tried the Pionite.
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post #476 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 12:23 PM
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A comment on the Formica: The matte finish is still quite shiny. The sparkle finish, despite the name, is actually less shiny.
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post #477 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 12:23 PM
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FremontRich-
What size screen do you want and, is your room light controlled? -j


I want a 45" x 80" (92" 16:9) screen. Yes, my room is light controlled.
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post #478 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

Those panels and the Do-able panels do give some really nice images and you can't beat the price. I have some samples of Do-able that I want to get some color data on and gain tests too.

One thing I have to say about the laminates are they are virtually indestructable as a screen material. I don't know if you read my 'torture test' I ran them through earlier in this thread, but I couldn't damage them with any of the tests. (I soaked them in water to check for water damage, froze them in the freezer because people were expressing interest in using this as an outdoor screen, and nothing phased them). Short of burning them or going at them with a sharp knife, I couldn't dent, ding, mar, discolor, chip, or scratch them in any way.


Yes, I've read your posts on the torture tests... great work! I thought long and hard about the laminate from Lowes but in the end I wanted a known product such as Wilsonart Designer White. I need to ask Lowes if they can order it for me.
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post #479 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

How big of a screen are you looking for and is this a dedicated Home Theater room you are building?

I would like to have at the very least a 100" screen, I'm shooting for 110" though . Yes this will be a dedicated Theater Room in the basement of the home I moved into back in May. Ideally I will be setting up a small workout space for a treadmill and weights, then have a nice big space for the a pool table room along with all the necessities, snack bar, fridge, and counter area. My original plan was to make this the HT but all the utility lines run through this space making it difficult to close up, so I would have to do a drop ceiling which I didn't want for the dedicated room(besides washer and dryer are above this area as well).

The game room will coveniently house all the equipment underneath the steps leading down to the basement. The stairs end up being against the back wall of the dedicated room so it will make for short runs to the projector. The final dimensions of the room should end up roughly being about 18X11.5X7.5 with hopefully two rows of seating.


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post #480 of 2849 Old 10-04-2006, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

I want a 45" x 80" (92" 16:9) screen. Yes, my room is light controlled.

FR-
That's an easy one cause I know it's in your area... Do-able board @ HD, $15
Here's the pertinent info:
1/4" X 49" X 97" Do-able board mfg by Do-able Products.
UPC(DP #) 718793630365, SKU(HD #) 174278, model # 63036. They'll cut it for you right there.
Official thread with many screenies:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=617173

Note: Make sure not to mistake the 3/4 melamine sheets for Do-able

OK, back to laminate. -j
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