Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 19 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: What are your screen requirements? (Pick as many as apply)
I want something that is easy to install. 424 18.55%
I want something as inexpensive as possible. 372 16.27%
I want something less than $100. 269 11.77%
I am willing to spend whatever amount is needed as long as it's the best. 68 2.97%
I want a simple one can painted screen option. 68 2.97%
I want an advanced paint mix screen option. 52 2.27%
I want a single material screen option. 290 12.69%
I want something durable. 271 11.85%
I want an ambient light screen. 244 10.67%
I have light control and want a white screen. 235 10.28%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2286. You may not vote on this poll

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post #541 of 2849 Old 10-08-2006, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fas View Post

I'm really interested in a laminate screen because of a 6 month old granddaughter, and probably more coming. I'm waiting for the Mitsubishi 3100HC, anyone have any availability info? I posted earlier about an idea to put DW on one side and Fashion gray (or some other more ambient light friendly finish) on the other side. Anyone have any FG experience yet.

Another question: I'd consider a paint for one side. I've read alot about Goo, MM Mud, etc. What I don't understand is what importance is there in the base coat if it is covered by the top coat? Also, why mirrors as a substrate? Unless the topcoat is somewhat clear or opaque. If the topcoat is not opaque and is solid, why can't any primer, like kilz, go under the Goo?

wbassett - any insight?

There is a thread in the main screen forums for the commercial screen paints. Whether it takes off will be seen. My stance on them is discussion solely to talk specifically about them alone belongs in the commercial screen forum since they are commercial products.

The theory for the mirror is that the mix is translucent so the projected image penetrates the layers of paint, strikes the mirror, then is reflected back giving a more vibrant image. I would read through Tiddlers threads and his tests on this and draw your own conclusions.

The top coats people are talking about are also a translucent mix, so the base coat is an important component of the layered method. If you wanted to paint the back side of a laminate sheet, you definitely will need a base coat of some kind because it's a rather horrid looking surface.

I hope that helped, any more indepth answers will have to come from the paint guys. I have had a Behr Silver Screen 'screen', a Behr UPW (Ultra Pure White) screen, and now laminate. I have not delved into the advanced mixes so I can not comment on them from personal experience.

There is also a 'new' white paint that was resurrected from the past. It's not really 'new' more like it is getting reintroduced. It's Rosco Off Broadway White. You can buy it online, or go to their site and you can check if there is a reseller in your area. There is one 17 miles from me so I am going to get some to check out.

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post #542 of 2849 Old 10-08-2006, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

I received my samples from Wilsonart - Designer White and Gray (1500-60. The DW is whiter than my BOC but what surprised me is that DW and the Gray samples are not smooth - they have a textured finish!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiddler View Post

A textured finish is a good thing. As long as it's uniform and finer in pitch than the pixels. With some sheen and texture screen manufacturers increase gain without deminishing the viewing angle too much.

I agree with Tiddler.

I just got my Pionite samples and the suede finish has a very slight texture to it. Wilsonart is more pronounced, but it is still not a rough surface by any means. Formica is by far the smoothest surface. I have some Nevamar samples coming and then I have to get color data and gain tests done on all of them. Formica has color data, but no gain tests.

After that, and once all viable colors from each company have been chosen, it's shootoff time! As I said before, I'm hoping we have viable colors for white and gray from all the manufacturers and their performance is all on par with each other. That way people anywhere in the country should have no problem getting a laminate from one of them.

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post #543 of 2849 Old 10-09-2006, 07:31 AM
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Bill-
Any news on Do-able's gain tests? -j
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post #544 of 2849 Old 10-09-2006, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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no, my tester is busy with another project right now

We will get it though!

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post #545 of 2849 Old 10-09-2006, 09:16 AM
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I've ordered two more samples from Wilsonart - Dove Grey and Fashion Grey. My current screen is grey so I want to compare greys.
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post #546 of 2849 Old 10-09-2006, 09:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Dove is pretty dark. What is your current screen again?

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post #547 of 2849 Old 10-09-2006, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

Dove is pretty dark. What is your current screen again?


It's an Elite CineTension High Contrast Grey with a 1.0 gain. I'm sending it back for repairs because the right side tension cord broke off at the roller.
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post #548 of 2849 Old 10-09-2006, 09:21 PM
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I just auditioned samples of Designer White & Fashion Grey with my Infocus SP4805 (DLP in low power mode) against my Infocus white unity gain screen. I tested various locations of the projected image and found:
1) Fashion Grey is way to dark for my tastes
2) Designer white 'looks' like it has a higher gain than 1.24
3) Both samples seem to impart some hot spot effect when I'm sitting beneath the pj, if I stand up or sit to the sides this goes away.
4) DW is most notably different from my screen on white scenes, colored or darker scenes don't appear much different.
5) DW with ambient light is only affected slightly more than my current screen. A pair of 60 watt lamps 16ft away on 100% causes problems, at 50% dim not so bad, at 30% they aren't an issue.
My main concern is with the viewing angle/hot spot issue. I wonder if this is not so noticable with a full sheet of laminate vs 4"x3" sample pieces. I'll try taping them up horizontally (holes to the sides) tomorrow. Does a curved screen help alleviate this viewing angle problem?
-Ward

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post #549 of 2849 Old 10-09-2006, 09:50 PM - Thread Starter
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What I can say for certainty is if you didn't like Fashion Grey you definitely wouldn't like Behr Silver Screen. They are very close to the same shade.

It sounds like you may want something in the middle of Fasion Grey and Designer White.

As far as Designer White goes, if you have a higher lumen projector, you may actually have to turn your brightness level down some. That is not a necessarily a bad thing either...

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post #550 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 04:33 AM
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True, if this works out I plan to move the pj back to support a 120 inch screen. I would prefer to buy my own fabric vs laminate; but I'm having problems finding prices on screen material which leads me to believe that route may be about as pricey as buying an assembled fixed screen.
_What are the benefits of a curved screen?
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post #551 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 05:07 AM
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Texture is a old topic that has lost none of it's relevency it seems. And most people often misconstrue it's value as well as it's detrimental aspects.

Texture on any Mfg screen is there to help avoid the screen's tendency to Hot spot. Nothing else. Since many Mfg Screens have the goal of producing a bright vibrant image, the use of particularly reflective surfaces demand that texture be present. It's no wonder that the brightest of screens always have the most texture as well.

Lamenates usually have virtually no texture, so the finish being as flat as possible is very important.

Is texture desirable? ONLY if one needs it to mitigate sheen. Otherwise it will, and always does compromise image quality, especially if you are pushing "Viewing to Screen width" distances to a closer parity.

With a good 'ol Z4 and a truely flat hued, textureless surface, you can get down to as low as 1.2 to 1.0 x width to distance, to acheive a truely immersive experience. D-ILAs', many 720p DLPs, the newer Pannys', and of course any new 1080p PJ will seldom "add' pixelation. But presented with texture, any of the aforementioned with any tendency to show any SDE or Pixel structure will have that tendency amplified by texture.

Choose a ready made surface or painted application that does not hot spot or fail to distribute light evenly out to the edges, and you'll never be a victim of eye fatigue. Or sit back way far and enjoy your "Big Screen' in smaller circumstances. And go "Kiss your Sister", for that is what making a big screen look smaller via increasing the viewing distance out of necessity is really all about. >

That is most deffinately a case of backwards thinking to me, and not in keeping with the improvements in PJ quality, and available signal sources.

Lastly, texture often demands that the eye constantly re-focus, and it highlights any/every degree of noise or pixelation. All of that, as well as too much light reflecting back directly to the eyes creates a less than desirable effect on the eyes, one that is a leading cause of eye strain, and exactly why for so many years we have all been stuck with having to restrain our viewing distances to 1.8x to as much as 2.2 x D to W.

For many, texture is an unavoidable consequence of application of materials or the material's existing surface. To introduce textue to mitigate undesirable aspects of something else is counterproductive at best. better to solve the first issue instead of lumping on another to deal with. If a surface comes with a slight texture, and a hue condusive to recieving an image, it can be construed as being acceptable, but certainly NOT ideal.

"Glass Smooth" & Flat Hued is the real goal. Introduction of the appropriate amount of metallics in a controlled fashion, within an essentially Flat hued substance can increase gain and reflectivity, but taken too far, will introduce additional issues.

It's all about balance, and without balance, at best one can expect is a "Humpty Dumpty" kind of approach. Often, you must pick up the pieces of your work & ideas and start all over.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #552 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 05:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ward216 View Post

True, if this works out I plan to move the pj back to support a 120 inch screen. I would prefer to buy my own fabric vs laminate; but I'm having problems finding prices on screen material which leads me to believe that route may be about as pricey as buying an assembled fixed screen.
_What are the benefits of a curved screen?
Ward

RoseBrand sells screen material and canvas in large widths for very good prices. That is an one option you can check on if you want a cloth screen. BOC also comes in large widths too.

Talk to Bud about cloth screens, that's what he has and he will be able to answer your questions in this area.

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post #553 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ward216 View Post

True, if this works out I plan to move the pj back to support a 120 inch screen. I would prefer to buy my own fabric vs laminate; but I'm having problems finding prices on screen material which leads me to believe that route may be about as pricey as buying an assembled fixed screen.
_What are the benefits of a curved screen?
Ward

My canvas was actual shipped to me from Cleveland. So you might be able to pick some up for a good price. I only had about $130 in my screen and I may have over done it a little. Check out link in my signature or PM me if you have some questions.


Bud

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post #554 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Texture is a old topic that has lost none of it's relevency it seems. And most people often misconstrue it's value as well as it's detrimental aspects.

Texture on any Mfg screen is there to help avoid the screen's tendency to Hot spot. Nothing else. Since many Mfg Screens have the goal of producing a bright vibrant image, the use of particularly reflective surfaces demand that texture be present. It's no wonder that the brightest of screens always have the most texture as well.

Lamenates usually have virtually no texture, so the finish being as flat as possible is very important.

Is texture desirable? ONLY if one needs it to mitigate sheen. Otherwise it will, and always does compromise image quality, especially if you are pushing "Viewing to Screen width" distances to a closer parity.

With a good 'ol Z4 and a truely flat hued, textureless surface, you can get down to as low as 1.2 to 1.0 x width to distance, to acheive a truely immersive experience. D-ILAs', many 720p DLPs, the newer Pannys', and of course any new 1080p PJ will seldom "add' pixelation. But presented with texture, any of the aforementioned with any tendency to show any SDE or Pixel structure will have that tendency amplified by texture.

Choose a ready made surface or painted application that does not hot spot or fail to distribute light evenly out to the edges, and you'll never be a victim of eye fatigue. Or sit back way far and enjoy your "Big Screen' in smaller circumstances. And go "Kiss your Sister", for that is what making a big screen look smaller via increasing the viewing distance out of necessity is really all about. >

That is most deffinately a case of backwards thinking to me, and not in keeping with the improvements in PJ quality, and available signal sources.

Lastly, texture often demands that the eye constantly re-focus, and it highlights any/every degree of noise or pixelation. All of that, as well as too much light reflecting back directly to the eyes creates a less than desirable effect on the eyes, one that is a leading cause of eye strain, and exactly why for so many years we have all been stuck with having to restrain our viewing distances to 1.8x to as much as 2.2 x D to W.

For many, texture is an unavoidable consequence of application of materials or the material's existing surface. To introduce textue to mitigate undesirable aspects of something else is counterproductive at best. better to solve the first issue instead of lumping on another to deal with. If a surface comes with a slight texture, and a hue condusive to recieving an image, it can be construed as being acceptable, but certainly NOT ideal.

"Glass Smooth" & Flat Hued is the real goal. Introduction of the appropriate amount of metallics in a controlled fashion, within an essentially Flat hued substance can increase gain and reflectivity, but taken too far, will introduce additional issues.

It's all about balance, and without balance, at best one can expect is a "Humpty Dumpty" kind of approach. Often, you must pick up the pieces of your work & ideas and start all over.

That was rather civil and thanks for the input.

Designer White has a slight sheen to it, and as far as the texture it really is nothing that is a pronounced surface that you can see much more than six inches or so away. It's also even and uniform so in this case I don't think it is hurting the image quality. Pionite Ice White in the suede finish also has a slight texture to it, less than Wilsonart, but not really by much. Formica is the one brand that looks completely smooth, as least compared to Wilsonart and Pionite's suede finish.

Like I mentioned, the texture is very slight and very uniform. Even with rolling and sanding there tends to be a very slight texture, at least what I have seen. This was even with sanding between coats. Again this texture was very slight and you had to get six inches or closer to see it. Someone was toying with the idea of spraying aluminum paint on sand paper, these surfaces are nowhere near anything that rough, you've seen laminates and counter tops so you know what it looks like, nothing really outrageous. Based on the performance people are reporting back for Designer White I really don't think the slight texture is an issue, but I agree that it is normally something people need to watch out for. The surfaces in question are not any worse than Do-able or Parkland. I don't have Parkland in my area so I can't do a direct comparison, I'm just going on what people are saying and trusting them. I have seen Do-able and would say it's surface is very similar to the Pionite Suede finish. Hopefully that will give you an idea of what level of texture we're talking about, which really isn't much at all...

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post #555 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


With a good 'ol Z4 and a truely flat hued, textureless surface, you can get down to as low as 1.2 to 1.0 x width to distance, to acheive a truely immersive experience.

"Glass Smooth" & Flat Hued is the real goal. Introduction of the appropriate amount of metallics in a controlled fashion, within an essentially Flat hued substance can increase gain and reflectivity, but taken too far, will introduce additional issues.

I would comment that these two statements above reflect my own experience.

I have a Z4 with a painted BOC screen that has some texture and a flat sheen smooth surface is the way to go in my opinion. I love the detail and color it can produce, but it seems to me that a textured surface does increase pixelation and forces me to de-focus even at 1.6X screen width.

Rich
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post #556 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 08:16 AM
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All these laminates, including Do-able, have a texture to them. Do-able's texture is less noticeable than the others. And, as Bill stated, the texture is only noticed at close viewing (6" or less). Texture also helps increase the viewing cone, making off-axis viewing achievable.

My eyes are not constantly re-focusing on the image. I see less noise and no pixelation with the 900 as compared to the 4805.

Also, DW, Formica and Pionite all have more of a noticeable sheen to them as compared to Do-able. I'm talking about the white laminates only, not the grays.

I have all 4 substrates in hand and, I'm actually projecting on to them.
And I'm not talking about 1" x 3" pieces, rather 30"x48". -j
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post #557 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyman00 View Post

All these laminates, including Do-able, have a texture to them. Do-able's texture is less noticeable than the others. And, as Bill stated, the texture is only noticed at close viewing (6" or less). Texture also helps increase the viewing cone, making off-axis viewing achievable.

My eyes are not constantly re-focusing on the image. I see less noise and no pixelation with the 900 as compared to the 4805.

Also, DW, Formica and Pionite all have more of a noticeable sheen to them as compared to Do-able. I'm talking about the white laminates only, not the grays.

I have all 4 substrates in hand and, I'm actually projecting on to them.
And I'm not talking about 1" x 3" pieces, rather 30"x48". -j

My eyes are not constantly refocusing either. You have the Panny 900 which, from what I have read has eliminated pixelation due to its smooth screen technology.

I have not eliminated laminates from the menu of screens that I may consider because for one thing, I have not tested with a large piece just the 1 x 3" so I can't really form an opinion about laminates, pixelation and my projector.
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post #558 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 09:48 AM
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wbassett:

Did you get a chance to shoot some pics of Fashion Grey and SilverScreen in action?

Can you also post comparative shots between Designer White and Fashing Grey?
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post #559 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 03:06 PM
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My sheet came in today! Here are some quick shots. They are terrible because my digital camera cannot take pictures in the dark. I'm in the San Diego area, so if you want to stop by and see it in person or take pictures with a real camera, send me a PM. I am noticing some hot-spotting, but the projector has not been calibrated for the laminate, yet. The Top of the pictures is my wall, the two sample squares you see are Frosty White on the left and Designer White on the Right. The bottom portion is, of course, Fashion Grey.
This is coming from a 1 month old Panny 900U with a 14' throw.
Mode: Cinema 1
All projector settings (i.e. brightness, contrast, color) are set to "0."






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post #560 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 03:35 PM
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I've been lurking on this thread for a while now so I thought I would contribute by impressions.

First, where I am coming from. I am new to front projection, but not completely new to DIY picture calibration. I've used both VE and AVIA to calibrate picture tube televisions. I am new to HDTV in my home. I just purchased an HD72 along with an oppo 971 and switched to a high def DVR from Time warner cable. I am still in the process of setting up my home theater and after reading through this thread decided on trying out the Wilsonart Designer White as a screen.

All these test were done with no calibration straight out of the box on the HD72. I did put the lamp in low mode with Image AI off. I can only imagine the picture will improve with standard AVIA calibration.

I initially tried out my projector on a Gray Wolf 2 screen with about enough ambient light (projector off) to be able to read. The projector was set on the floor and I was only projecting maybe a 72" diag. I was initially very impressed with the brightness of the screen. I did not like the fact that I could see the screen grain on bright scenes. Also, knowing I am ultimately going to ceiling mount meant the retro-reflecting Gray Wolf would not work for me. Sanding on my couch and looking at the Gray Wolf showed a significant brightness reduction.

After getting rid of the Gray Wolf I tried a $2.50 white bedsheet I found at Walmart. I rigged a crude screen using several broom sticks and sewing pins. This time I tried it in almost black out conditions. With the projector off you could see shapes well enough the navigate the room without falling over something. Obviously this is not a great screen, but it was watchable. I was throwing maybe a 80" diag. I mainly did this to play around with the projector and oppo menu settings. I don't have a plain wall I can project on. Anyway, even in these conditions it was much less bright than the gray wolf.

Now what led me to this laminate thread? Initially I was going to get an Elunevision fixed frame screen but they have been out of the size I wanted for months now. So I started reading about DIY methods. I hate painting so that was out. BOC was a seriously considered option. As well as photograper paper. Any screen I want to use has to be suspended from the ceiling and moved when not in use. This is because the screen will be in front on my old TV I still use for normal television and that television is inside built-in cabinets that cover the entire wall. I don't want a wavy non-tensioned pull down and don't want to pay for a tensioned one. I decided the photographer paper would be to easily damaged in a floating frame. And I've been hearing BOC is more of a temporary solution that most people use for a while and them move on. So that led me to order the Wilsonart.

So I got my 5x8 piece of laminate in from Home Depot, got it home and unrolled it. There were greasy black finger marks all along one edge of the laminate from whomever handled it at home depot. Pulled out the counter top cleaner and paper towels. Couple of squirts and a few wipes. All gone. I can't imagine another screen material that is this easy to clean (other that other types of plastic sheets).

So I tried it out in about the same ambient light conditions as the gray wolf above. I just leaned it up in front of the built in cabinets. I am completely happy so far. I was shooting about 75" diag for a bit, then pulled the projector back and made about a 83" screen. That was about a big as I could make it with out having to tile the projector and use keystoning to keep it on the laminate. I tried several HD shows thru the cable box. One was about snowboarding and kayaking. So really bright stuff was looking great. The only other HD show I could find at the time was some show following bikers around a rainy city. Not real dark scenes but not bright scenes. This also looked great. The image did not look as clear and crisp as the gray wolf in the ambient light condition, but it looked much much better than I expected. I also threw in LOTR: Return of the King and watch some of the big battles. These also looked great and were completely watchable. I brought some friends over the next day at lunch to show them. One commented, "How are you going to see the picture with this much light." I said, "You'll be surprised." And he was. He's been trying to decide what projector to get and now he wants a HD72.

I can't wait to try the laminate out in the darker environment with some calibration. I just got my ceiling mount delivered today. So once I get that mounted I'll be able to try out larger screen sizes. I am shooting to have a final size between 90" and 100" diag when I am done with and viewing distance of about 11 feet. Once I decide on a screen size I'll be making the frame out of the square aluminum tubing like the guy did earlier in the thread. I'm using his pictures as a blue print. Since I'm hanging it from the ceiling I'd like it to be as light as possible.

Thanks to everyone who has posted info to this thread. It has helped me out and given me a screen I am sure I will be happy with.

I'll try and return with some screen shots once I get the projector mounted.
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post #561 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickmo View Post

My sheet came in today! Here are some quick shots...
I am noticing some hot-spotting... The bottom portion is, of course, Fashion Grey.

That looks like some really nasty hotspotting. I copied the picture into PaintShopPro and applied Colors... Posterize=12 to intentionally over-emphasize the hotspotting:



Ideally, the solid portion of your screen should not have any of those posterized histogram bands/rings.

I'm on the road this week, but this weekend I'll take a picture of a solid white screen. The DW screen with my projector is nothing like that. I can't imagine it would be due to the FG's color, and FG should have the same texture as DW, so it might be an issue with digital projectors.
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post #562 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 03:58 PM
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skijunkie: Welcome aboard - I love it when lurkers become contributors!

Did you get Wilsonart Designer White, or gray?

Glad to hear you are satisfied so far, and looking forward to some screenshots.

Garry
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post #563 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

That looks like some really nasty hotspotting. I copied the picture into PaintShopPro and applied Colors... Posterize=12 to intentionally over-emphasize the hotspotting:

Ideally, the solid portion of your screen should not have any of those posterized histogram bands/rings.

I'm on the road this week, but this weekend I'll take a picture of a solid white screen. The DW screen with my projector is nothing like that. I can't imagine it would be due to the FG's color, and FG should have the same texture as DW, so it might be an issue with digital projectors.

Clarence good demonstration of showing hot spotting. It's interesting this has lower gain but this shot shows some hot spotting. I agree that I don't think it's the color, if he's hot spotting with this, DW would most likely be worse. I also want to see some shots once nickmo get's everything calibrated for this color and sets his brightness and contrast levels. I had to turn my brightness level way down when I changed from a SS screen.

Nickmo what size sheet did you buy and where do you live? If you don't like it I'll buy it off of you, I need some test sheets anyway so I can start trying some top coats.

Out of curiosity, how many lumens is your projector rated at?

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #564 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 04:16 PM
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nickmo,
You may be getting reflections from your room that are causing some issues with the screen. My painted screen gets some reflection from the right wall, because it is real close to it. If not, then you may have to curve it.

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post #565 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes welcome to the posting side of things skijunkie!

Do you have a projector mount yet? If not I got mine for $30 plus shipping and I can literally hang from it... I'll see if I can find the guy I got mine from and if he still has more of them if you need one and are interested... (That's NOT a sales pitch, I don't even know if I can remember who was selling them or if I can even find the information anymore)


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post #566 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 04:37 PM
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Nickmo, i'm in SD too, and contemplating the laminate route. Was the piece in stock or special order at HD? I have an HD and Lowe's within a mile of work/home, so I'm gonna run over there and see what they have. I'm also wondering about a border, since I switch between my HTPC for movies (4:3) and HDTV from cable box (16:9).
Is the impact of the black light absorbing material significant enough to make two screens? Id rather just use one, but obviously with the two different formats, its gets kinda crazy. I have an Optoma E739 I think. . .
Thanx,
joel
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post #567 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 10:29 PM
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wbassett:
I ordered a 4x8 panel and then cut it to 37"x66".
My projector is rated at 1100 lumens, but I run it in "low" lamp mode, so it is less than that in the pictures.

jbailey895:
I special ordered the FG from HD. It took about a week for them to get it in.
As for a screen border, I used black velveteen from Joan's Fabrics; someone reccomended it as a good material, so thanks a bunch I'm very happy with it. To switch aspect ratios and view different widescreen formats I plan on having two sets of curtains. One for the left and right of the screen and the other for the top and bottom.

I built my screen frame and mounted the laminate on it today. Some pics of the build process are in my next post.

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post #568 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 10:42 PM
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Tools and Materials:


Applying the cloth to the wood border:


Cloth step 2:


Assemble the frame:


The complete frame:


Stapling the laminate to the frame:


Had to modify these mirror clips a little to get them to work with the frame:


The final product:

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post #569 of 2849 Old 10-10-2006, 11:00 PM
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Nickmo:
Great work and great shots. Is the frame 1x3" plywood or mdf? Did you staple the laminate to the back of the frame, inside the corner brads?
What was the total cost, if you don't mind me asking?
Thanx for the info,
Joel
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post #570 of 2849 Old 10-11-2006, 12:26 AM
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Joel:
The frame was made from poplar(wood) 1x3 boards. This is my first DIY project, so I don't know if there is a difference between plywood, wood, lumber and so on. I hope that my answer makes sense. I stapled the laminate right over the L-brackets; I was worried about the curvature at first, but it turned out fine.

$77 for the laminate
$44 for the mirror clips, L-brackets and wood (estimated)
$25 for the black border material

About $150 total.

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