Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 22 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: What are your screen requirements? (Pick as many as apply)
I want something that is easy to install. 423 18.52%
I want something as inexpensive as possible. 370 16.20%
I want something less than $100. 269 11.78%
I am willing to spend whatever amount is needed as long as it's the best. 68 2.98%
I want a simple one can painted screen option. 68 2.98%
I want an advanced paint mix screen option. 51 2.23%
I want a single material screen option. 289 12.65%
I want something durable. 270 11.82%
I want an ambient light screen. 244 10.68%
I have light control and want a white screen. 234 10.25%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2284. You may not vote on this poll

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post #631 of 2849 Old 10-14-2006, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickmo View Post

wbassett:
Maybe I can make a filter out of this light blocking film you mentioned and put it over my PJ lens. That should reduce the lumens even more. I might be able to just filter out the very center of the lens. What general aisle of HD was it in?
Hmm.....

Here is some info on neutral density filters:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neutral_density_filter

http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?o...density_filter

http://www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQueri...S&pq-path=2098
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post #632 of 2849 Old 10-14-2006, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

Okay... guys next time your wife goes shopping for groceries, have her drop you off at Home Depot or Lowes. That's what I did tonight!

Seeing that she was gone and I had no wheels I literally went up and down every isle. Clarence made a suggestion of rare earth magnets for a simple masking system, and I had an idea on that suggestion for rigging test panels and full size sheets.

I found the magnets, and tested them with a piece of sample laminate and Clarence really has a great idea! Unlike other screen materials that are too thick for a magnet to work through the sheet, laminate is definitely thin enough. My problem was though if I put magnets on the back of the test panels they would protrude an 1/8-1/4 inch from the main screen. That could make comparison shots look a little odd. I wanted the panels to be as flush as possible to the main screen, so I needed a super flat magnet, and that wasn't going to happen... I started looking for a very thin piece of metal. I found galvanized duct hangers back in the heating isle. They are the same thickness as the laminate sample and worked like a champ! What I am going to do for my permanent setup is attach magnets to the back of the main screen so I can put up two test panels (DW will be the third spot as a baseline) or I could put up a full sheet if I wanted. ALSO I can still use the magnets for a manual masking system like Clarence suggested! My plan for the test panels is just to simply duct tape the metal straps to the back. That way I can reuse them and the duct tape would prevent any potential scratches or marring of the main screen. I don't think that would really be an issue, but I don't want to take any chances, some of the galvanized straps are like razors!

I'm getting my permanent screen setup just about done so I should be able to start top coat testing very soon! What's taking so long is I am working on building a Bose VCS-10 center channel speaker into the bottom border, so I have to plan this one out a little. I'll probably take the pegboard and build a frame on the back side to bring the whole thing out from the wall a little since the VCS-10 is 6" deep. That way it will be closer to being flush with the black trim border.

I also got some window film that reduces incoming light by 60% (it also acts as a barrier for heat loss in the winter). I'm going to kill my ambient light at the source! Well kill it as much as I can and still have a living room with some light during the day. I figure after I get home from work and early evening it should be perfect. I can already watch movies with my one room lamp on. It's approximately 20' from the screen and a 60W bulb, so when it's on there really is not much of an impact on things.

I thought about trying to tape a piece of the film to the screen, but after mulling it over and the fact it stops 60% of light it probably won't do anything but make the image super dull and dim.

I'll start getting pictures of my permanent setup going. Like I said I still have to work out the details for the center channel speaker, and I have one other twist I am going to try to incorporate...

So walk all the isles sometime and just look... there are things that are very interesting that you may not have thought about but once you see them ideas start popping.

Be careful in home depot, its very easy to get carried away.
I found the magnets and planned on mounting them above my celing then using magnetic hooks to hang samples or test panels. However HDs weren't strong enough, nor were any other I found locally. They can be found online, but I didn't want to buy trial and error and get hosed on shipping returns. There a balance between not strong enough and so strong that it will crush the ceiling.
On my latest walkthrough I found a 3x3 piece of aluminum. Now I'm buying all the metal I can to try projecting on.
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post #633 of 2849 Old 10-14-2006, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I spent a grand total of $40, and most of that was for window film to reduce incoming light. I only spent around $10 on the magnets and metal I needed.

The magnets are plenty strong enough to work through the laminate so I'm not worried about that.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #634 of 2849 Old 10-15-2006, 03:41 PM
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I have finally finished comparison testing the Designer White I bought against my Parkland Plastics screen (I shoot against the shiny or back side). The results are identical with every source.

My recommendation is for the Parkland (to save money) if a height under 48 inches is sufficient and for the Designer White if you need a five foot height.

John
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post #635 of 2849 Old 10-15-2006, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyman00 View Post

Here's the 900, out of the box settings.
Pionite on the left, Do-able in the center and DW on the right.
The corners of the laminate are still somewhat curled. I will be taping them down with double sided sticky stuff when I start testing.

-j


skyman: is that pionite ice white on the left? imo it looks better than the designer.


wbasset: do we have any color values on the pionite and how it fits into the comparison chart?
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post #636 of 2849 Old 10-15-2006, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craftech View Post

I have finally finished comparison testing the Designer White I bought against my Parkland Plastics screen (I shoot against the shiny or back side). The results are identical with every source.

My recommendation is for the Parkland (to save money) if a height under 48 inches is sufficient and for the Designer White if you need a five foot height.

John


Parkland would be nice, if I could buy it. I have never seen it, so I put it in the same category as Do-able. Plus, laminate costs me about $35 for a 4x8 sheet.

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post #637 of 2849 Old 10-15-2006, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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No color values on Pionite yet. I do like how the samples look, but in that screen shot you really can't tell much from it since the DW panel doesn't have anything but background image. Camera lens limitations have previously been in such a way that they could focus on the foreground or the back ground, but in any given shot one of the two would be out of focus. From what I have seen of the HD DVDs they have overcome this and both are in focus and very crisp (that 3-D look that people talk about.)

I have no doubt that the Pionite Ice White is a good surface, but you can't base it solely from that screen shot. As a direct comparison, the Do-Able panel is performing quite nicely, but like I said I don't think anything can be determined about an image quality difference between Designer White and Pionite. A better comparison would be if those two panels were side by side.

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post #638 of 2849 Old 10-15-2006, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craftech View Post

I have finally finished comparison testing the Designer White I bought against my Parkland Plastics screen (I shoot against the shiny or back side). The results are identical with every source.

My recommendation is for the Parkland (to save money) if a height under 48 inches is sufficient and for the Designer White if you need a five foot height.

John

I agree that screens that can be made with a sheet of material 4x8 can be done cheaper. Do-able is also another great surface, the problem is both of these products seem to be a region only material.

Part of what I like about laminates is that they are available literally anywhere in the US. I can't say what the availability is like in other countries though. In fairness, one drawback is the cost and it's also been discovered that the price of laminate can vary quite dramatically from one area to the next. Some people can get a 5x10 sheet for a third of what someone in another area can. It's almost worth checking into someone buying a sheet in the less expensive area's and ship it. The shipping would increase the cost, but it surely wouldn't cause it to triple in price. Still the performance vs price is still a good deal for screens larger than what can be made out of a 4x8 sheet.

Parkland can also be shipped like this too since it can be rolled. Parkland will even direct ship (or at least they used to when they were making he 5x10 sheets) Some people have reported problems though with waves in the Parkland sheets. I'm not sure if the waves were due to it being rolled, it sounded like it was a QA issue in how the panels were made. From what I read it appeared it may have been that in combination of the sheets being rolled too soon after coming off the line. Parkland did replace the defective sheets when notified. But I have never heard anyone complain that their laminate sheet had 'waves' in it.

Do-Able I am afraid is not going to be something easily shipped because of the size and weight. To ship a 4x8 sheet of Do-able could likely cost 5 times or more of what the cost of the sheet did, which negates it's cost value and I would have to say why not just go with a laminate at that point? It's a shame Home Depot doesn't carry it in all their stores.

edit to add
_________________________________________________
The geneses of this thread was solely because of the unavailability of Parkland or Do-able in every area and that neither provided an option to make a screen greater than 48x85 (98" diagonal). To be honest, if Clarence and Ericglo hadn't shown me laminates and reintroduced them to everyone I would have bought a commercial screen in the size I wanted. (There is just too much in fighting and controversy among the paint methods to me to be able to decide which one is 'best') To me DIY isn't about what is the cheapest, it's about what performs the best and fits your needs. It could be DIY, or it could be commercial, but going for something just because it's cheap doesn't make sense to me when people spend a grand or two (or more) on their projector. Neither Do-able or Parkland fit my needs, and there are many others that want screens larger than either of these materials can provide.

Both Do-able and Parkland have their own threads and people can easily find them. I am not trying to detract from their value or benefits to DIY, but this really isn't the thread for those materials. They have value and get plenty of discussion on their own threads. I personally can't say if Parkland performs on the same level as DW because I can't get Parkland in my area. Your opinion is that they are the same, someone on here already evaluated them and in their opinion Designer White was better... In this thread I tried to provide actual data so this wasn't just another thread about opinions and conjecture. Even if I could get Parkland, as pointed out it's not the right size I needed so no matter how good it is in the end it would be useless for me because it doesn't fit my needs.

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post #639 of 2849 Old 10-16-2006, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by craftech View Post

I have finally finished comparison testing the Designer White I bought against my Parkland Plastics screen (I shoot against the shiny or back side). The results are identical with every source.


Thats the most disappointing thing I have ever read on these forums. Dang nab it.

I guess that means my Parkland screen will remain for now. Thanks for the info.

GL


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post #640 of 2849 Old 10-16-2006, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gonelong View Post

Thats the most disappointing thing I have ever read on these forums. Dang nab it.

I guess that means my Parkland screen will remain for now. Thanks for the info.

GL

gonelong just keep in mind that was just one opinion... Clarence actually listed the different screens he's used and he had a totally different take.

Of course the Parkland fans are going to praise it, same as the fan of any method will tout their favorite material over other methods. Even commercial screens have their following and you see the same in the main screen forum all the time too. I'd like to see what Parkland looks like, but since it's not sold in my area, and seeing that shipping would bring a 4x8 sheet up close to what a larger sheet of laminate costs, it doesn't make much sense when I can just go to Home Depot and get a sheet of laminate that has been tested and has data on it. Parkland could be the best thing on the planet but if people can't get it then it's not of much value to them. If you can get it and if you don't want a larger screen then sure... go for it!

So I wouldn't say an opinion is the most disappointing thing anyone could read on a forum...

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #641 of 2849 Old 10-16-2006, 01:38 PM
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GL: Also bear in mind that while Parkland is washable, it's softer and not nearly as durable as the laminates. At my local HD, you'd have to sort through a LOT of sheets to find one with an undamaged shiny side.

Garry
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post #642 of 2849 Old 10-16-2006, 03:34 PM
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Yeah, I found Parkland promising, but it was subject to scuffs and scratches. And it wasn't completely opaque. It was also only a 4x8 sheet... it was passed on to me from someone who found it unsuitable. I found it slightly better than BOC. And since I wanted larger, I passed it on to a 3rd party.

Do we have a measured gain for PP? It has been a while, but I recall it only seeming like 1.0 gain.

Anyways, I still prefer the Wilsonart DW. But I'll only recommend it for other CRT owners in a light-controlled HT until someone has decent results with a digital... especially after seeing nickmo's hotspotting.


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post #643 of 2849 Old 10-16-2006, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Calrence Nickmo was using Fashion Grey and in the worse possible combination of conditions. I don't think we can use that as the definitive test.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #644 of 2849 Old 10-16-2006, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

gonelong just keep in mind that was just one opinion... Clarence actually listed the different screens he's used and he had a totally different take.

Of course the Parkland fans are going to praise it, same as the fan of any method will tout their favorite material over other methods. Even commercial screens have their following and you see the same in the main screen forum all the time too. I'd like to see what Parkland looks like, but since it's not sold in my area, and seeing that shipping would bring a 4x8 sheet up close to what a larger sheet of laminate costs, it doesn't make much sense when I can just go to Home Depot and get a sheet of laminate that has been tested and has data on it. Parkland could be the best thing on the planet but if people can't get it then it's not of much value to them. If you can get it and if you don't want a larger screen then sure... go for it!

So I wouldn't say an opinion is the most disappointing thing anyone could read on a forum...

Point of clarification:

I am NOT a "Parkland fan". I am not a follower either. I made this comparison over the course of two weeks. I used a split screen setup with the Parkland on the top and the Designer White on the bottom. I projected normally lit movies, darkly lit movies, brightly lit movies, videographer's DVD videos, and animation for a few hours a day for two weeks.

I also had no less than ten people evaluate the screen images over the two week period and ALL came to the same exact conclusion. There was no visual difference between the two screens.

Also note. Most of the "Parkland Fans" are projecting on the duller (top) side of the material. I found that side to be inferior to the shinier back side of the material. Thus, despite the fact that Parkland has changed their formula for the top side of the sheet the back probably has not changed and is still safe to buy.

So what are the advantages of the Designer White laminate over the Parkland plastic screen:

1. It is 5 feet wide instead of 4 feet wide if you need a taller screen.

2. It is opaque. The Parkland plastic is translucent and will need the back painted especially if you aren't attaching it to a wall. I suspend my screens from the ceiling.

3. It doesn't scratch as easily. The slobs at the Parkland distribution center in Montgomery, NY should all be fired. I had to return three sheets before I got a decent one. In fact, one was COMPLETELY cracked.

4. It is rigid and doesn't require as much support as the floppy Parkland sheets.

5. The larger (taller) size helps improve the look of those horrible squished down 2.35:1 DVDs

Now,

If you can get the Designer White cheap, go for it. My local Home Depot charged me $108.13 for a 5 x 8 foot sheet of Designer White. We also pay much higher than the national average for gasoline here as well.

John
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post #645 of 2849 Old 10-16-2006, 08:48 PM
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Home Depot left me a message today offering to sell me the 4x8 panel of DW they mistakenly ordered the first time for $34.00. Anybody interested? I'll buy it if someone in here wants one to do some testing on.
Let me know.

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post #646 of 2849 Old 10-16-2006, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craftech View Post

So what are the advantages of the Designer White laminate over the Parkland plastic screen:

1. It is 5 feet wide instead of 4 feet wide if you need a taller screen.

2. It is opaque. The Parkland plastic is translucent and will need the back painted especially if you aren't attaching it to a wall. I suspend my screens from the ceiling.

3. It doesn't scratch as easily. The slobs at the Parkland distribution center in Montgomery, NY should all be fired. I had to return three sheets before I got a decent one. In fact, one was COMPLETELY cracked.

4. It is rigid and doesn't require as much support as the floppy Parkland sheets.

5. The larger (taller) size helps improve the look of those horrible squished down 2.35:1 DVDs

Good points except for #5. I rarely watch SD DVDs any more, but 2.35 OAR is beautiful... not "horrible". However, a CRT in a light-controlled HT shows pure black, so I don't get any gray bars above/below the image like a digital projector gives.

But, yes, if you only need a 4' height and want to save a few bucks and sacrifice a little PQ and durability, and if PPlastic is available in your area and isn't already too scratched up on the shelf, then PP could still be considered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickmo View Post

Home Depot left me a message today offering to sell me the 4x8 panel of DW they mistakenly ordered the first time for $34.00. Anybody interested? I'll buy it if someone in here wants one to do some testing on.
Let me know.

Nickmo, I'll paypal you the $34 so you can try the DW... I'm curious to see if it works better for you than your Fashion Gray. If you don't want to keep it, I'll give it to CMRA... he's in SD and I'd like to see him compare it to his other screens.


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post #647 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I know there are people that are using Designer White and they have digital projectors. We all know a white screen no matter if it's a commercial screen... UPW, Killzit, Rosco, laminate, Do-able, or Parkland isn't going to fair well with ambient light. If they did then there wouldn't be all the gray options. We also know that some setups and projectors can handle some light without too much of a problem, but still nothing considered an 'ambient light screen'.

With that said, who is currently using Designer White (or any other color or a laminate from another manufacturer) and aside from the obvious lighting restrictions any white screen has... what is your assessment of it?

I'll start.

I have a 52x92 inch DW screen. I dropped down from 54x96 because that was at the extreme upper limit of my zoom and it ended up the 52x92 was a better 'fit' for the wall I am using.

I do not see any problems with hot spotting. I will say the screen is very bright, so much so that it pretty much lights the room without any lights on, and I had to drop my brightness level. In a way that is good and bad... you can definitely see what you are doing in the room... it's no where near like having full room lights on, but I can actually read most of my remote buttons! The bad side in my opinion is I really like to watch epic movies with the room completely dark and nothing in view but the image on the screen.

I'm still playing with various gama settings and brightness levels. I think I will be able to get it setup so one gama setting works for casual viewing, and the other takes it to the darker level I mentioned I like when watching movies alone. On the plus side, as my bulb ages and the lumens start to drop, I know I will be able to get a bright image for quite awhile by starting to bring my brightness level back up. Plus when I upgrade projectors in March this screen should work nicely with whatever I get.

Colors are excellent, but it's a white screen and my projector looked fantastic with just a plain jane UPW screen so I didn't expect anything really radically different as far as colors go.

Gain... UPW is estimated with a gain of 1.0 at best, perhaps a little lower than that. DW definitely has some gain to it as was previously measured and graphed, and I can see how using a smaller screen could hot spot. (If it does and can't be compensated for, a slight curve could be the answer... and this stuff is VERY easy to curve and build a torus type screen...)

So now that there are people out there using DW, let us know your experiences with it...

The interest is in digital projector's and how well they perform with it, but I don't want to exclude any CRT users out there either.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #648 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wbassett View Post


(snipped)

Gain... UPW is estimated with a gain of 1.0 at best, perhaps a little lower than that. DW definitely has some gain to it as was previously measured and graphed, and I can see how using a smaller screen could hot spot. (If it does and can't be compensated for, a slight curve could be the answer... and this stuff is VERY easy to curve and build a torus type screen...)

So now that there are people out there using DW, let us know your experiences with it...

The interest is in digital projector's and how well they perform with it, but I don't want to exclude any CRT users out there either.


Building a curved screen can be difficult. I would consider using a neutral density filter to cut down on the lumens.
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post #649 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

Building a curved screen can be difficult. I would consider using a neutral density filter to cut down on the lumens.

When you say difficult, do you mean getting the curve right or just building the frame? I've never built a curved screen but I know it's been mentioned on this thread about how easy laminates could be used as a curved screen.

Also I don't know much about filters right now. If you have some links, that may be exactly what nickmo is looking for.... nickmo we haven't forgotten about you and we'll get something figured out

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post #650 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 11:05 AM
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I'm using a DW 100" diagonal paired with a Sanyo Z4. I see no hotspotting. I previously used a BOC screen. My room is 100% light controlled with black ceilings and dark burgandy walls. My room is 16x25. It has knee walls on each side. I built a 10' wide freestanding wall about 8 feet into the room that is only as wide as the flat part of the ceiling. That allows the knee wall area as a "hall" around the wall I built on each side. The screen is hanging on this wall. Behind the wall is the entrance to the theater and a to be developed later lobby area. I leave all the light I can on on the other side of the wall. It's almost like having ambient light behind my screen. I'll try to post pics later. The DW is quite a bit brighter than my BOC screen and has a much smoother look to it. I'd rate it a big improvement, enough so my wife even commented on it.
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post #651 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 11:13 AM
 
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I use "Frosted White" from Home Depot. It's about 3 years old now. It is very similar to white melamine but with less sheen and not quite as "white". I would say they use a slight grey tint to make it appear "frosted". I don't know, but I selected it by standing an 8 foot sheet up next to an 8 foot sheet of melamine and looked from all sides looking for "glare" in the store. The frosted white had less glare and sheen. I have a Panny 300U and the screen is about 7 1/4 feet wide. My projector is ceiling mounted in a dedicated basement room. No windows (well, they are covered with black cloth curtains and NO light comes through. The ceiling and the upper two-thirds of the walls are painted "dark granite" which is a flat dark grey. The lower third of the walls is painted a "billiard table" green and I have a chair rail moulding about 3 feet off the ground. (BTW, I stepped down the moulding every 8 feet or so to give the illusion of a slanted floor room, and it worked quite well! )

No lights are on during the movie, except some "night lights" that I replaced the bulbs with red 4 watt bulbs and works GREAT! These are near the theater entry to prevent tripping or whatever on the way to the lobby/bathroom.

The formica does not "hot-spot" with my particular scenario. The off axis viewing angle is great. You can view the picture 45 degrees and more. The picture is pretty good and there isn't any eyestrain through the movie. The only drawback I would say is that the picture lacks "depth" and is not "vibrant" colours that this projector is capable of. And, forget turning ANY room lights on with this projector/screen combo. I am sure a PRO screen material would probably make the image vibrant because of the relective qualities and texture design for movie viewing as opposed to the surface of formica which is designed for food preparation and such! Anyway, no regrets here, I spent about 60 bucks. (I mounted the formica with laminate glue to a 1/4" plywood waferboard sheet and trimed with black clamshell casing painted flat black.)
I will say, that in my opinion, you cant evaluate this product for your scenario with a small card sample like they give out. It will glow like a flashlight! You really need a full size piece, at least my MY particular projector.
In contrast, before I bought the formica, I bought a white "tile board". (Parkland wasn't available in my area) The tile board was about 9 or 10 bucks and was useless. It hotspotted something awful.

2 cents
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post #652 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay here's some kudo's to skyman and prof for getting some data on Do-able . For those only needing/wanting a 98" diag screen this is the way to go for those lucky enough to have it in their area... under $20, can't beat that at all.

Back to the roll call

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post #653 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

When you say difficult, do you mean getting the curve right or just building the frame? I've never built a curved screen but I know it's been mentioned on this thread about how easy laminates could be used as a curved screen.

Also I don't know much about filters right now. If you have some links, that may be exactly what nickmo is looking for.... nickmo we haven't forgotten about you and we'll get something figured out

Exactly. Curved screens aren't easy to construct. I'd rather try a neutral density filter first before embarking on building a curved screen... I guess I'm just allergic to work... LOL
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post #654 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Not at all... I keep saying KISS over and over...

What info do you have on these filters? I also plan on doing a search after work on them. I'd love to find out if this would work for nickmo and we can get a big smile going on his face

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #655 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post


Also I don't know much about filters right now. If you have some links, that may be exactly what nickmo is looking for.... nickmo we haven't forgotten about you and we'll get something figured out

I did post some info previously. But you can do a search in the AV Science "Search" pulldown menu.

Here's one I found:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...eutral+density
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post #656 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 08:14 PM
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I was hoping the Laminate would have a undisputable improvement with my setup, but it sounds like it won't. I will probably get a sample of it at some point and do my own testing, but I won't be in any hurry.

I already have a Parkland screen and like it alot. I am not above tinkering and hoping to find a better solution at some point. My Parkland is lightweight, pretty durable (with no natural enemies, i.e. cats or unruly children), cost effective, and puts forth a pretty darn nice picture. I have a 96" screen at the moment and am pretty happy with that size, though I'd consider bigger.

Ambient light is not a major concern as I can put the lights on in the back half of my basement, read the paper on the recliner, and see a negligible effect on my screen on the other side of the room.

GL


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post #657 of 2849 Old 10-17-2006, 09:16 PM
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I recently purchased both DW and FG and have both hung side by side. I have no hot spotting issue and it seems that is just as viewable off axis as straight on both laminates. The PJ is a Sony Pearl 14' from the 106" screen and is mounted to the ceiling which is 8'2" high. My wife and I prefer the FG whether there is any ambient light or not. The blacks look blacker and the rest of the image seems more natural and not as blown out. I am planning on keeping both laminates until the bulb has 50 hours on it and it settles in. Perhaps then the DW will be a better long term screen. If anyone is in the northern Ohio area and wants to see the screen let me know.
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post #658 of 2849 Old 10-18-2006, 09:13 AM
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OK... I have a Panny 900, in a light controlled room (basement, with large windows which have blackout double wall cellular shades). I have small slivers of light on each side of the shades, two windows on the side wall between the projector and the screen. My Panny is ceiling mounted, approx. 13' from the screen.

If anyone reads the Do-able thread... I wanted to go that route. Being in Michigan the best place to buy the stuff was in Colorado. I had actually started a group buy discussion with people and was consindering getting the stuff shipped out to Michigan.

Instead I went with BOC... it worked, and provided a nice image. My friends were all impressed at how good the image was (they appreciated the NCAA Bball games). This BOC screen was 106" diag.

I recently, upon reading about laminates (and having read some of it before when looking at Do-Able) have picked up and installed a DW WilsonArt 5x10 sheet. I'm currently using a 120" diagonal screen mounted on the wall (see my various posts about using mirror hooks to mount).

My same friends, and I, have all commented that the new DW screen is much brighter, and more vivid. The colors have a better "look" (yellow seems yellow, instead of yellowish). I really notice a difference on HD material the most. When watching college football in HD the uniform colors just pop off the screen. I did have to recalibrate my Panny 900 to use with the DW laminate vs. the BOC. I have only used the Digital Grey disc thus far, and have not measured anything with a colorimeter (I plan on getting on soon).

All in all.. the DW is a better screen, for me in my basement, than BOC. I'm willing to sell my BOC is anyone in West Michigan wants a preassembled nice BOC screen.
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post #659 of 2849 Old 10-18-2006, 10:29 AM
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I just finished building my DW screen last night, its 100 inches wide and 56 inches tall. It is such an improvement over the old BO cloth screen I built. I am very very impressed with the quality of the screen. I do have it in a light controlled room, so ambiant light is a non-issue, and with the lights off, its awesome.

Now, I just have to clean up the room to get the sawdust out of the rug

I'll have pictures up when it's finished.

Come see my
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post #660 of 2849 Old 10-18-2006, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for answering up to a 'roll call'. I know there are more out there too!

I think a lot of people are interested in hearing real life scenerios and what people think. It was great to hear briocoffee tested Fashion Grey and was happy with it. The data and tests are nice and back up claims of gain and color balance, but hearing how it actually performs is just as important to people trying to make a decision.

For an extremely simple screen with exceptional image quality I really think this is a nice way to go. If someone wants a smaller screen in the 48x85 size then I would recommend Do-able if it's avalable in your area. Check the Do-able thread for any information and to ask questions about it. Both these materials cover just about any size screen most people would be interested in, and they are extremely easy to work with.

Hopefully we can get more real world experiences with some of the grays now.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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