Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 25 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: What are your screen requirements? (Pick as many as apply)
I want something that is easy to install. 424 18.56%
I want something as inexpensive as possible. 371 16.24%
I want something less than $100. 269 11.77%
I am willing to spend whatever amount is needed as long as it's the best. 68 2.98%
I want a simple one can painted screen option. 68 2.98%
I want an advanced paint mix screen option. 51 2.23%
I want a single material screen option. 290 12.69%
I want something durable. 271 11.86%
I want an ambient light screen. 244 10.68%
I have light control and want a white screen. 235 10.28%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2285. You may not vote on this poll

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post #721 of 2849 Old 10-25-2006, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c_dike View Post

I think I read of a couple people who were considering doing what I would like to do: Make a laminate screen with solid border/back that is attached to the ceiling with hinges and can be folded up onto the ceiling and held in place out of the way when not in use.

I am not aware of what hardware might help. Obviously I could find some hinges and then use some kind of hook or clamp to hold it against the roof, but I'd like to find a solution that doesn't require me using a step ladder to reach the 10' ceiling and then "catching" the screen as it swings down into place. In my mind the most important thing is something to slow it down as it swings from the ceiling to a vertical position so it doesn't stress the hinges, or potentially smack some unsuspecting person below in the face :-)

Has anyone attempted this or thought about possible solutions?

I just leave two hooks in the ceiling and physically hang the screen when I need it. The rest of the time it goes in the basement. I have two short chains terminated with carabiners equally spaced along the top edge of the screen's frame. The carabiners snap into the eye hooks hanging from the ceiling. I thought about making mine swing up, but three things stopped me:

1. Safety
2. Swing room
3. Ugliness in the folded up position.

However, I have 8-foot ceilings and you have 10-foot ceilings. You would still need a step ladder to do what I did. I can reach mine (I am 6 foot 2 inches). How about this:

1. Two hooks in the ceiling with pulleys
2. Two pull cords with tie-offs against the wall. The simple kind that you wrap the cord around several times to make it stay.
3. Hoist it up - tie it off
4. Unwrap the cord - lower it down.

*Attach a small level to the back of the screen so you can easily make it level before you tie it off

John
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post #722 of 2849 Old 10-25-2006, 06:21 AM
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i have another dumb question.

the Wilsonart DW is actually 61" instead of 60. i want to make the viewable screen 61" by 109" for a 124" screen. i will be going to HD to pick up the 1x3's and have them cut at 45 degrees but was wondering if anybody can tell me what length to get the 1x3's to keep the screen a viewable 124"?

thanks for any suggestions!

does anyone have the link to a post where it showed step by step with pics how to mount the DW to a pegboard and so on?
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post #723 of 2849 Old 10-25-2006, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windycitystyle View Post

i have another dumb question.

the Wilsonart DW is actually 61" instead of 60. i want to make the viewable screen 61" by 109" for a 124" screen. i will be going to HD to pick up the 1x3's and have them cut at 45 degrees but was wondering if anybody can tell me what length to get the 1x3's to keep the screen a viewable 124"?

thanks for any suggestions!

does anyone have the link to a post where it showed step by step with pics how to mount the DW to a pegboard and so on?

Don't knock yourself out with the size. Use the zoom to make the image fit the screen. I left mine at 5 x 8 which gave me a 54 x 96 (16:9) and a 60 x 80 (4:3) screen all in one. I used the extra half-inch all around to screw through. And don't forget that there are different widescreen aspect ratios as well and projectors being fed by scalers either external or built into upscaling DVD players will change the sizes as well. No one watching the movie walks up to the screen and says: "Hey look - there is a space at the top and bottom therefore this movie sucks". Or, "The movie sucked but I liked the fact that it fit the screen perfectly".

Your biggest problem is going to be finding 1 x 3s that long that aren't warped. Pine will be nearly impossible and poplar will be almost as impossible. You may have to go to several stores.

Also, any mounting techniques requiring adhesives are pretty much permanent. I would screw the sheet onto a frame and live with it awhile before using any adhesives. What if you want to make a change? This stuff is not cheap like Parkland or Do-Able.

John
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post #724 of 2849 Old 10-25-2006, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windycitystyle View Post

i have another dumb question.

the Wilsonart DW is actually 61" instead of 60. i want to make the viewable screen 61" by 109" for a 124" screen. i will be going to HD to pick up the 1x3's and have them cut at 45 degrees but was wondering if anybody can tell me what length to get the 1x3's to keep the screen a viewable 124"?

thanks for any suggestions!

does anyone have the link to a post where it showed step by step with pics how to mount the DW to a pegboard and so on?

The pegboard is a bit of overkill, most people are either attaching the laminate directly to the border and hanging the whole thing like a big picture, or are using mirror clips and then putting the border up. I just took that graphic down

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #725 of 2849 Old 10-25-2006, 09:12 AM
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Thanks for the feedback on the folding up screen. I'm determined to come up with an elegant solution that will look good (or not very noticable at least) folded up against the ceiling. I had already decided to attach the hinges to "arms" that would allow the screen to be a couple feet or more lower than the ceiling. I think if I put a thin flat panel (maybe another layer of laminate) on the back and paint it to match the ceiling color it will look reasonably good. I just need to find some kind of spring controlled hinge or something that will let it open up slowly for safety. That will be my quest over the next few months while I build my HT. I'll post when I figure something out.
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post #726 of 2849 Old 10-25-2006, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stubeeef View Post

Puck, would love to see a pic of your screen up. the floating idea is very cool! I might borrow that if not a tm!
Did you have nice clean edges from the cuts that didn't need to hide? Did you cut it or have it done? If you did it, did you just use a file to smooth the edge or was it ok as it was?
Instead of a defined back area, I was thinking of defining with trim, then wrap the frame with rope light so it splashes out from behind on to the velvet. Would that work?

Stubeef,
I'll try to take a picture of my set-up tonight and post the pictures either tonight or tomorrow. I used a laminate scoring blade I picked up at HD and it worked great. Left a nice clean edge so I didn't have any concerns leaving them exposed. If you decide to use the scoring blade, just be sure to use a straight edge and push hard as you drag the blade across the laminate. No need to file the edges.
If you use rope light near your screen, just be careful of the ambient light "splashing" on the screen.

The french cleat style hanger pictured in one of the above posts is exactly what I used to hang my frame. Worked great!
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post #727 of 2849 Old 10-25-2006, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post

Stubeeef
I also like the floating look to the screen and think the lights are very cool even if you only use them when not projecting. The black behind the screen is a good idea also that's what I did in a way.

The only suggestion I would make would be instead of a straight back box, I would build a thin frame around the front and then step back the box maybe 4 inches all the way around. That way the face would look like it was really floating, plus you would have a place to tuck the rope lights out of sight and get a back bounce from the lights. Just something to think about when you get it done post some pictures.

Others may have suggestions if you will need any bracing midway in your frame or is the laminate stiff enough to not wrinkle.

Good luck.

I might not have described it very well, but the frame behind the screen will be smaller than the outer dimension of the laminate, the laminate edge will look like it is floating. I will only use the rope light effect when there is no projection, more like the tease before the show! the ropelight will be behind the screen wraped around the box mount, so you will not see the lights only the splash from behind.
One of the best parts of this for me is the extra room I gain by not using the trim, those extra 6-8 inches are somewhat critical for me in the arrangement I have.
I will link pictures of progress by the weekend. I have the walls primed (grey) and the first half of the tile is going down now!
I am excited about this laminate because it also frees up some $$ while buying all the other things I need to buy!

Thanks Puck! Look forward to the pix!
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post #728 of 2849 Old 10-25-2006, 08:01 PM
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just ordered the bw for my new optoma 7100 will let you guys know how it works out
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post #729 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 05:10 AM
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Clarence,

where can i pick that HangMan cleat up at? can i find it at HD? Sku#?
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post #730 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windycitystyle View Post

Clarence,

where can i pick that HangMan cleat up at? can i find it at HD? Sku#?

Lowes. Or click the rockler link I provided above.

or google it for more sources...

This site has the 18" version for $7

http://www.americanframe.com/catalog...y_artwork.html



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post #731 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 12:07 PM
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Here is an alternative method of hanging the laminate and trimming the screen with velvet fabric:



I bought plastic "L" Bead (left) from Home Depot. It is used for sheet rock corners to create a floating reveal expansion or as a finish edge next to 'trimless' window and doors. It happened to be on clearance so each 10 foot length was only 80 cents. I bought four. Using aviation snips I cut off the "L" part leaving a nice fairly rigid plastic stip with convenient holes that happened to be spaced the same as the width of a staple (right). Using 1/4 inch staples I stapled the material as shown then flipped it over the edge as shown in the next photo. The extra material was then stapled to the back in the conventional manner and the corners mitered, etc.



(opposite end shown)

John
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post #732 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 12:48 PM
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Cool! Clever idea. How did you handle mitering the velvet?
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post #733 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 12:54 PM
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I colored in a 45 degree diagonal line with some black permanent marker on the wood first then folded the material from each edge at a 45 degree angle, butted them together, then stapled them to the wood from behind.
The black permanent marker was just in case there is any slight separation of the miter at some future point. You won't notice it.

John

EDIT: I re-did the miter permanently eliminating the possibility of a space.

On the two short edges (left and right) I simply continued up and over the top and bottom stapled it to the back - NO 45 degree angle.

Then I folded a 45 degree angle on the ends of the top and bottom pieces of material and overlapped the edge pieces (in other words a mitered joint with only ONE 45 degree angle). It looks just like a true mitered edge only much neater and no chance of a space because it is overlapped.
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post #734 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craftech View Post

I colored in a 45 degree diagonal line with some black permanent marker on the wood first then folded the material from each edge at a 45 degree angle, butted them together, then stapled them to the wood from behind.
The black permanent marker was just in case there is any slight separation of the miter at some future point. You won't notice it.

John

Nice work. Do you have any more pictures of the final product?

I ordered my sheet of DW today.. Kept going back and forth between it
and FG, but decided to play it safe for the moment.

-jeff
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post #735 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by schottjy View Post

Nice work. Do you have any more pictures of the final product?

I ordered my sheet of DW today.. Kept going back and forth between it
and FG, but decided to play it safe for the moment.

-jeff

See change I made above. Will post picture of corner only. Picture of the whole thing will end up looking like all the others. The close-ups are moire helpful IMO.

John
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post #736 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

Lowes. Or click the rockler link I provided above.

or google it for more sources...

This site has the 18" version for $7

http://www.americanframe.com/catalog...y_artwork.html




Clarence,

Does the screen lay flat against the wall, or did you have to add some additional
element to the back of the screen to compensate for the cleat? I guess you could
use an additional cleat.
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post #737 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyfritz View Post

Mebbe so skyman, but the time & hassle factor makes me want to do this once.

Aubrey, I looked at MDF moulding at HD the other day. It would work fine appearance-wise, but my concern was that it would warp. Which was why I asked about 1x2 poplar on the back. Maybe I should just plan to tack the frame to the wall in a few spots and call it good. It also seems to me that a 2" frame would look pretty skinny on an 85x48 screen, but maybe not.

Construction: you miter, then wrap, then assemble. Getting the velvet[een] tight and flat on the corner of the miter is probably a bit tricky but doable. (Not Do-Able. ) I think the hardest part would be fitting them tightly together while you attached the L-brackets.

I saw Clarence's tape, and it would work great for a flat application like he did. But it's too narrow for the moulding, and I think it would be hard to wrap it around the moulding so you didn't get edges showing &etc. If you're going to use moulding, I think wrapping it in velveteen is probably easiest.

Gary

I believe that MDF is more resistant to warpping that solid wood.

I just poked around on Stewarts' and Draper's websites. Looks like screen frame are between 1 1/2" and 4" in width.

Here's a clamp that could help hold the frame as you attach the miters

http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5576

$30, HMM!!!!

http://toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=4566

OK! $15. That's more reasonable for a 1 time use.


Here's the miter cutter with blades I mentioned earlier (you have to remove the blank and paste it into IE. Mod, the original URL was 100 characters long)

//tiny url.com/ykhyfa

Though at almost $200 it's not worth it unless you build these frames for a living. The purpose of using this is you wrap the frame, then miter it. Since I think the blade would cleanly cut the fabric. Where a saw blade might tear the fabric.

Aubrey
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post #738 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schottjy View Post

Clarence,

Does the screen lay flat against the wall, or did you have to add some additional
element to the back of the screen to compensate for the cleat? I guess you could
use an additional cleat.

I didn't use the metal cleats on my screen frame... only on my backlit poster frame.

For my screen frame, I used a table saw and did a 45 degree cut along one long edge of my top 1x4... thus the whole top became a cleat. So it fits snug and flat against the wall.

I have some pictures a few pages earlier in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8534224
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post #739 of 2849 Old 10-26-2006, 07:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay... this may seem pricy... Urecht has professional grade stretcher bars... even aluminum ones...

This is probably more for those six that answered the poll "... willing to spend whatever amount is needed..." but these are nice...

Ever look at a professional fixed frame? Yes our DIY frames look pretty awesome, even as nice... but commercial frames take fit and trim to a new level, even the back of the frame is pretty... hence the price tag. Also I priced a frame built from a frame shop... they wanted $380 for a 54x96 black frame and it wasn't even wrapped in velvet.

For those interested, the same frame built with one of these stretcher bars would be $56 with wood.


Aluminum would be $77.56. The aluminum frame would definitely be rigid... kinda like viagra for frames


I'm not suggesting this for everyone, it's just one alternative.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #740 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAW View Post

I believe that MDF is more resistant to warpping that solid wood.

Yes -- but the moulding is only about 1/2" thick. It's intended to be tacked to a wall, so it doesn't have much stiffness. It might not actually *warp* in the sense that wood does, but it bends much too easily. The 8' lengths I looked at were already bent just from standing upright at the store. If you were going to use just the moulding without any additional stiffeners, I would plan to tack it to the wall just to make sure it doesn't bend and give you a bowed screen.
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post #741 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 08:13 AM
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whats the easiest way to cut Wilsonart DW?
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post #742 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windycitystyle View Post

whats the easiest way to cut Wilsonart DW?

Do you think the cutting methods discussed earlier in this thread are too difficult?
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post #743 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 09:09 AM
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Was finally able to have the wife take some pictures of our theater. We finished the project about a month ago and went with the DW screen after reading this thread. As I mentioned in my previous posts, I mounted the laminate to a frame I built and hung it on the wall, overlapping the cut edge of the velvet on the wall.

Looking into theater from wine room.


Entering theater.




Love our Coater Studios from Serge at HTAuthority! (looking back from screen)


DW laminate 110" screen mounted on frame and hung on wall (overlapping black velvet)


Theater with some of our mood lighting on.
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post #744 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 09:30 AM
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[quote=puck16]Was finally able to have the wife take some pictures of our theater. We finished the project about a month ago and went with the DW screen after reading this thread. As I mentioned in my previous posts, I mounted the laminate to a frame I built and hung it on the wall, overlapping the cut edge of the velvet on the wall.



Well done, Puck!
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post #745 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 11:01 AM
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i agree .. looks great.. what pJ are you running?

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post #746 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 11:07 AM
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Most elegant, while maintaining a subtile degree of understatement that no one could construed as being "Over the Top". And most likely pretty affordable as well.

Definately deserving of the "Cajun Kudos Award".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #747 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 11:12 AM
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Great looking room, like the multipurpose layout. Thanks for those pix.
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post #748 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 12:13 PM
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Thanks for the great feedback. And I'll gladly accept the Cajun Kudos Award and all of the benefits which accompany it! The whole basement is 1500 sq ft and we also added a gym, bedroom and half bath.

We've got a Sharp XR-10X. Love it and works great with any minor ambient light issues we sometimes run into with this type of layout. I'll try to post screen shots soon.
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post #749 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puck16 View Post

Was finally able to have the wife take some pictures of our theater. We finished the project about a month ago and went with the DW screen after reading this thread. As I mentioned in my previous posts, I mounted the laminate to a frame I built and hung it on the wall, overlapping the cut edge of the velvet on the wall.

Looking into theater from wine room.


Entering theater.




Love our Coater Studios from Serge at HTAuthority! (looking back from screen)


DW laminate 110" screen mounted on frame and hung on wall (overlapping black velvet)


Theater with some of our mood lighting on.

Very very nice... I am drooling!

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #750 of 2849 Old 10-27-2006, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

Lowes. Or click the rockler link I provided above.

or google it for more sources...

This site has the 18" version for $7

http://www.americanframe.com/catalog...y_artwork.html





Looking around the rockler site I see what looks like the same 18" ones for $4.99.


Awesome job Puck! Was the whole project DIY or did you hire anyone?
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