Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 3 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: What are your screen requirements? (Pick as many as apply)
I want something that is easy to install. 423 18.52%
I want something as inexpensive as possible. 370 16.20%
I want something less than $100. 269 11.78%
I am willing to spend whatever amount is needed as long as it's the best. 68 2.98%
I want a simple one can painted screen option. 68 2.98%
I want an advanced paint mix screen option. 51 2.23%
I want a single material screen option. 289 12.65%
I want something durable. 270 11.82%
I want an ambient light screen. 244 10.68%
I have light control and want a white screen. 234 10.25%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2284. You may not vote on this poll

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post #61 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

Looks like they are selling Formica brand laminate, which will also work. The price is virtually the same at my local Home Depot for Wilsonart and Formica (a penny or two difference per square foot)

I'm not sure what color they have that directly corresponds to Designer White.

The white Formica panel from HD that I tested a couple of years ago was unusable due to reflective glare and hotspotting.

That's why I was suprised that the Wilsonart worked so well... I thought the Wilsonart would be almost identical, but IMHO it's much, much, much better than the Formica surface.
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post #62 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 07:43 AM
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Here are some old links about Formica, melamine, and laminate screens:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post3345322
http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...59#post4680259
http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...88#post4680288

I've tried all 3, plus a dozen other paints and materials.

In summary, I'd score them:
$9 white tile board from HD = 3/10
$60 Formica "Frosted White" from HD = 5/10
BOC material = 6/10
parkland plastic = 7/10
painted mirror = 7/10
dalite, vutec, draper screen material = 8/10
White $25 4x8 melamine from HD = 8/10
$50-$96 5x10 Wilsonart = 9+/10
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post #63 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

The white Formica panel from HD that I tested a couple of years ago was unusable due to reflective glare and hotspotting.

That's why I was suprised that the Wilsonart worked so well... I thought the Wilsonart would be almost identical, but IMHO it's much, much, much better than the Formica surface.

Okay we have an answer on that... Thanks Clarence!

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post #64 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

...
I've tried all 3, plus a dozen other paints and materials.

In summary, I'd score them:
$9 white tile board from HD = 3/10
$60 Formica "Frosted White" from HD = 5/10
BOC material = 6/10
parkland plastic = 7/10
painted mirror = 7/10
dalite, vutec, draper screen material = 8/10
White $25 4x8 melamine from HD = 8/10
$50-$96 5x10 Wilsonart = 9+/10

That's the first time I saw a list breaking it down like that on here... very interesting.

I can see it now though... 'painted mirror and basic Parkland' with the same rating, and god forbid a mfg screen material rated higher than that... then a piece of laminate at the top! ... it'll be said it's because you use a crt and not a digital projector

I'm still waiting for my Grey sample to come in. I have all the rest of the samples. Once I get that I'll decide whether I want to order a sheet of Grey, Dove Grey, or Fashion Grey... Although I only watch movies at night and the Designer is pretty tempting too... if only my contrast ratio was a tad higher!

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post #65 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

The white Formica panel from HD that I tested a couple of years ago was unusable due to reflective glare and hotspotting.

That's why I was suprised that the Wilsonart worked so well... I thought the Wilsonart would be almost identical, but IMHO it's much, much, much better than the Formica surface.

Clarence,

Would you recall if that was the matte finish on the Formica panel?


There seem to be a lot of different finishes available from the laminate manufacturers.

I used the brand "Pionite" (813 ICE) white with a suede finish, and have no hotspotting.

For others considering laminates, they are quite easy to cut with Air powered or electric metal shears (the kind with an oscillating center cutter, removes about a 3/16" strip when cutting). Another cutting method involves scoring with a carbide cutter and snapping. This has to be done with care, and its best to sandwich the laminate between a couple of 2x4's (make sure the 2x4's are on the side you want to keep, and right beside the score mark).
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post #66 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

'painted mirror and basic Parkland' with the same rating, and god forbid a mfg screen material rated higher than that... then a piece of laminate at the top! ... it'll be said it's because you use a crt and not a digital projector

I have no problem with people trying or using a mirror screen or any other screen... if it works better for them, that's all that matters.

My mirror tests were only on a wardrobe mirror. And my results indicated that the approach was valid. However, the cost of a mirror larger than 4x8 was extremely cost prohibitive. Gluing mylar didn't seem feasible to me, either... I wouldn't find 1' piece glued mylar a suitable for shaving in the morning... much less watching at 10' when we do everything we can to get imperfections out of our picture at a sub-pixel level.

And on top of that, durability is very important to me. Even if I applied the paint perfectly to the mirror, with the right depth and the right spray technique, how long would it take (especially with kids in the house) for the surface to get scraped or flake?

CRTs have incredibly high contrast ratios. And they work best on white screens with gain from 1.0 to 1.8 - higher gained screens need to be curved (torus) to mitigate color shift and hotspotting. And CRTs don't need gray to help with black levels... they don't have to try to use a pixel to block 1000 lumens from a bulb. If CRT wants complete black, it just doesn't send a beam to the phosphor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hg57 View Post

Clarence,
Would you recall if that was the matte finish on the Formica panel?

It was a couple of years ago, but I recall the surface as appearing very similar to the Wilsonart surface... typical flat matte. It wasn't special order, it was the standard off-the-shelf stock at HD. Next time I'm there, I'll see if they still stock Formica and I'll see what the finish is. In fact, I might even re-buy another sheet of Formica (and save the receipt) just to do a side-by-side comparison with the same projector and same setup.
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post #67 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

I have no problem with people trying or using a mirror screen or any other screen... if it works better for them, that's all that matters.

My mirror tests were only on a wardrobe mirror. And my results indicated that the approach was valid. However, the cost of a mirror larger than 4x8 was extremely cost prohibitive. Gluing mylar didn't seem feasible to me, either... I wouldn't find 1' piece glued mylar a suitable for shaving in the morning... much less watching at 10' when we do everything we can to get imperfections out of our picture at a sub-pixel level.

And on top of that, durability is very important to me. Even if I applied the paint perfectly to the mirror, with the right depth and the right spray technique, how long would it take (especially with kids in the house) for the surface to get scraped or flake?

CRTs have incredibly high contrast ratios. And they work best on white screens with gain from 1.0 to 1.8 - higher gained screens need to be curved (torus) to mitigate color shift and hotspotting. And CRTs don't need gray to help with black levels... they don't have to try to use a pixel to block 1000 lumens from a bulb. If CRT wants complete black, it just doesn't send a beam to the phosphor.

I understand and agree with what you are saying... it all boils down to what works for a person... I was just being playful and teasing with my comment

You forgot to mention CRT's don't have that nasty SDE problem either

You have some active kids to consider, so yeah I can see where your coming from as far as a mirror or any screen that could get damaged or marred.

I did see in one of the archive threads where someone was questioning the lumens of a CRT and trying to compare it to a digital, that's an apples to oranges thing to me... both are fruits but very different. From what I remember of my 840pro (aside from being HUGE) is that the picture was almost as nice as my Sharp LCD, and the Sharp is over ten years newer than the 840 was. I think it's the size and not the perfomance is why people shy away from them. Plus the CRT's will outlast any bulb as far as life span. Again... you have a very nice setup

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post #68 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 01:36 PM
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There were some comments on the Silverstar over on the CRT forum, so I took some screenshots. I included the Wilsonart whites. The SS is on the bottom and the Wilsonarts are above it. From the left is the regular "White", next is "Designer" and on the right is "Frosty". I took the pics at zero degrees and forty five degrees. This was because some were saying the SS has no viewing cone.


HD NET zero degrees
HD NET forty five degrees
Grey Scale zero degrees
Grey Scale forty five degrees
White zero degrees
White forty five degrees

You can see that the White shifts blue and the Frosty shifts yellow, but the Designer seems just right (kinda like the three bears).

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post #69 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericglo View Post

There were some comments on the Silverstar over on the CRT forum, so I took some screenshots. I included the Wilsonart whites. The SS is on the bottom and the Wilsonarts are above it. From the left is the regular "White", next is "Designer" and on the right is "Frosty". I took the pics at zero degrees and forty five degrees. This was because some were saying the SS has no viewing cone.

White forty five degrees



You can see that the White shifts blue and the Frosty shifts yellow, but the Designer seems just right (kinda like the three bears).

Nice.

I'd like to see a full screen of the Silverstar (not just a small sample) to see how it hot spots and color shifts on the edges with CRT. The gain is definitely nice from center, which is fine for me because no one sits 45 degrees off to the side in my HT.
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post #70 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 02:46 PM
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FWIW, the color picker eyedropper tool on your offset photo above in PaintShopPro shows:

Wilsonart Designer White
R=194
G=196
B=203 (very slight blue push)

Silverstar
R=190
G=191
B=177 (low on blue = yellow tint)

Whatever your background screen is (paint? BOC?)...
R=182
G=184
B=183
(nicely color balanced, but dimmer than the wilsonart)
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post #71 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 02:54 PM
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And from your zero-degree straight-on white screenshot...

Designer White:
R=192
G=192
B=192
(perfect white balance, slight gain over background)

Silverstar:
R=218
G=225 (slight green push, but more gain)
B=218

Large background screen:
R=180
G=180
B=182 (nice color balance, lowest gain)
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post #72 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 04:03 PM
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I would like to see some screens of these w/ digital projectors (i.e. panny 900).
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post #73 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 04:40 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks to all you guys for posting your suggestions and following up with your results. I wasn't looking for something larger than 4x8, but I took a look at this thread because I was getting pretty frustrated about all the issues surrounding Do-able (impossible to find) and Parkland (formula changed).

I really wanted a panel (not fabric) that was zero prep (not paint) and low maintenance (easy to clean, not easy to damage), so I was really happy to find your posts about the Wilsonart laminate. I've ordered a panel for my home theatre (with a Sanyo PLV-Z4, PolySi LCD, 1000 ANSI, 7000:1 contrast) just now. I already have a 96 inch widescreen frame built with black felt covering 3 1/2 inch MDF. Can't wait for the panel to arrive!

Once again, THANKS!
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post #74 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davedeal View Post

I would like to see some screens of these w/ digital projectors

OK, I pulled one of my digital projectors out of the equipment closet. It's the JVC D-ILA G15 (1365x1024 pixels, 1500 lumens, link) that I mentioned before.

Ignore the uneven edge at the top of the image... it's the curtain above my screen. And you can see the shelf for my center channel speaker. I had another CRT projector set up in front of the D-ILA, so I had to set it up higher above it and behind it (because the digital throw distance is longer than the CRT throw distance). But the advantage of being too high is that you can see the wall behind the wilsonart... right across Simba's chin.



It looks fine (well, except for being digital... you CRT guys know what I mean). No glare, no hotspotting.

The Wilsonart also does fine in ambient light. But my HT does very well with ambient light, even with my CRT projectors. The recessed lights shine down onto the floor and seating area. Very little light washes onto the screen.
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post #75 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 06:15 PM
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>>The white Formica panel from HD that I tested a couple of years ago was unusable due to reflective glare and hotspotting.

Aw poop. I bought some Formica about 30 seconds before your post ;(

I hunted around to find Wilsonart dealers in Canada -- the only one who sold sheets (rather than cabinets with the laminate glued on) was Rona Lansing, sort of a local version of Home Depot. Hit two stores; they had never heard of Wilsonart but they sold lots of Formica. I picked up a Matt White formica sheet for about $35 and am about to fire it up now.

It is a bit shiny for my liking (less so than melamine-clad MDF though) and hopefully has enough texture that the hotspotting won't be too bad. Stay tuned.

EDIT -- a couple of hours later I am pretty happy with this. No visible hotspotting, and no obvious colour push. I don't have any good samples to compare with right now so I am going by memory, but will try to get some comparisons done over the weekend.

Definitely less shiny and less hotspotting than the HD painted masonite 2x4 I started with. More gain and much sharper image than the synthetic dropcloth I was using to determine ideal screen size.

At 92" or 106" diagonal it's still not sufficiently bright to run the Z4 in "Pure Cinema" (low lamp, no auto iris) but in Creative Cinema it looks mighty fine. I am really starting to get a hankering for a 2.35 setup with lens, although not sure what to do about the fact that all of my 2.35 movies seem to have 1.85 menus.

Anyways, thanks all for the great information here. This is just one more step along the way -- during the day the loft is way too bright and the surrounding 45 degree wall/ceilings are white so I still think BFLF is the next step, but for $35 I'm getting better results than I expected. Probably closer to $100 with frame and everything, but flopping a 4x8 sheet of Formica up against the wall works pretty well.

FURTHER EDIT -- in case anyone is interested and can't find Wilsonart, looks like the Formica was "Brite White Matte". Still very happy with it after a couple of weeks... and still no sign of glare or hotspotting.
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post #76 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 08:14 PM
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Round 2

I took these pics in complete dark. I don't know where the yellow stripes are coming from. It is definitely the camera that is doing it. I added some Wilsonart grey samples. I don't really think they are a good solution especially for CRT. The greys from left to right are Cloud, Grey, North Sea and Dove Grey. I just got this STB, so I am still playing with it. The pj needs to be set up for this box. I am surprised at how much difference there is between the internal test patterns and HD Net pattern.

Simpsons zero
Simpsons forty five
HD NET zero
HD NET forty five
White zero
White forty five
Grey Scale zero
Grey Scale forty five
Football zero
Football forty five
Clockwork zero
Clockwork forty five

I would like to know how bad the colorshift is, but even at forty five degrees the SS is still good. The only problem is the cost and how delicate it supposedly is.

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post #77 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 08:28 PM
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Finally, I thought I would throw a DIY in the ring. I took out the grey samples and in there place I put a no-pigment matte coating over mylar. The coating is the stuff I use on leather. There are two samples, but only one is labeled (the right one). I am 99% positive the left is no-pig as there would be no other way to get the gain. I think the difference between the two is the left one has a better finish on it (I probably used the better gun instead of the cheap HF). The samples have wrinkles in them as well. I had trouble attaching them to posterboard.

Corwin zero
Corwin forty five
HD NET zero
HD NET forty five
White zero
White forty five

Interesting what one can achieve with DIY.

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post #78 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericglo View Post

Round 2

I took these pics in complete dark. I don't know where the yellow stripes are coming from. It is definitely the camera that is doing it. I added some Wilsonart grey samples. I don't really think they are a good solution especially for CRT. The greys from left to right are Cloud, Grey, North Sea and Dove Grey. I just got this STB, so I am still playing with it. The pj needs to be set up for this box. I am surprised at how much difference there is between the internal test patterns and HD Net pattern.

Simpsons zero
Simpsons forty five
HD NET zero
HD NET forty five
White zero
White forty five
Grey Scale zero
Grey Scale forty five
Football zero
Football forty five
Clockwork zero
Clockwork forty five

I would like to know how bad the colorshift is, but even at forty five degrees the SS is still good. The only problem is the cost and how delicate it supposedly is.

Ericglo

That screen is kick ass. Bomrat has one paired with the 10PG I sold him and the hotspotting is minimal at the most. It does have a bit of colorshift, but it is not distracting at all.

He recently had a meet and several AVS members attended. Not ONE complained about the screen.

His 10PG is literally LOAFING right now at 8+FL.

I can look directly into the tubes at 100IRE and not be blinded. He made a good choice.

Cliff
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post #79 of 2849 Old 08-24-2006, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

Nice.

I'd like to see a full screen of the Silverstar (not just a small sample) to see how it hot spots and color shifts on the edges with CRT. The gain is definitely nice from center, which is fine for me because no one sits 45 degrees off to the side in my HT.

Not going to happen with me, as the SS is to expensive. I would go the DIY Torus route for that high of gain. As for off axis, I don't think anybody should be punished by sitting that far off axis.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarence View Post

FWIW, the color picker eyedropper tool on your offset photo above in PaintShopPro shows:

Wilsonart Designer White
R=194
G=196
B=203 (very slight blue push)

Silverstar
R=190
G=191
B=177 (low on blue = yellow tint)

Whatever your background screen is (paint? BOC?)...
R=182
G=184
B=183
(nicely color balanced, but dimmer than the wilsonart)

I forgot to mention that my screen is just straight titanium dioxide with a little silver mixed with my coating. This makes my screen probably the most durable screen out there. One thing about my screen is that I don't have enough coating on the screen and that is why it doesn't achieve unity gain. While I was doing it, I realized how much I was spending to paint this. I should have used kilz or something as a base for better coverage.

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post #80 of 2849 Old 08-26-2006, 06:50 PM
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Here's another screenshot of a laminate screen. This is a shot similar to one posted by Clarence, but it's from a Z4 projector. The screen material is "Pionite 813 ICE" with a suede finish.



Here is another shot with a 2' X 4' piece of untreated Do-able in front for comparison

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post #81 of 2849 Old 08-26-2006, 07:19 PM
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Great shots!
Would you be able to post one with flesh tones. I have a local pionite distributor in my back yard and had been considering ICE but trying to compare with thier greys. The only neutral grey they offer is folkstone which is too dark imo.


Thanks!
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post #82 of 2849 Old 08-26-2006, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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WOW and thanks hg57.

How could this stuff (laminates) have possibly fallen into the archives? These are some really impressive screen images and they have nothing to do with paint. Pop nothing, hg that screen shot SINGS!

Ericglo gave me some good advice and recommended the Designer White over the Grey. I will be upgrading projectors soon so I might as well go with a screen that I can use for that projector too.

I will be getting a smaller sheet of the grey for comparison testing though since others do have a need for a good gray material or paint.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread, I think there was some incredible information brought back to the forums and it shows that there is something else out there that provides an incredible screen image.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #83 of 2849 Old 08-26-2006, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hg57 View Post

Here's another screenshot of a laminate screen. This is a shot similar to one posted by Clarence, but it's from a Z4 projector. The screen material is "Pionite 813 ICE" with a suede finish.

I guess I should have asked, where did you buy this and is it readily available through Home Depot or Lowes? I am sure people will be wanting to know that. We already know Wilsonart is something both Lowes and Home Depot carry. Also how much was this?

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #84 of 2849 Old 08-26-2006, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davedeal View Post

Great shots!
Would you be able to post one with flesh tones. I have a local pionite distributor in my back yard and had been considering ICE but trying to compare with thier greys. The only neutral grey they offer is folkstone which is too dark imo.


Thanks!

This is from Anacondas, on my PVR, hope this is Ok. BTW, here the 2.35:1 screen masks are on the screen, even though this movie is 1.85:1

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post #85 of 2849 Old 08-26-2006, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

I guess I should have asked, where did you buy this and is it readily available through Home Depot or Lowes? I am sure people will be wanting to know that. We already know Wilsonart is something both Lowes and Home Depot carry. Also how much was this?

I bought the Pionite at a Pionite distributor (Lancashire distributing) here in Calgary, Alberta. The cost was about $2.00 / sq. foot ($64.00) for the 4 x 8, so the 5 x 12 (another popular size) would be about $120.00.

I can find several places to buy laminates in the yellow pages under "Building Materials - Wholesale", my yellow pages even lists "Pionite" in this category
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post #86 of 2849 Old 08-26-2006, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hg57 View Post

I bought the Pionite at a Pionite distributor (Lancashire distributing) here in Calgary, Alberta. The cost was about $2.00 / sq. foot ($64.00) for the 4 x 8, so the 5 x 12 (another popular size) would be about $120.00.

I can find several places to buy laminates in the yellow pages under "Building Materials - Wholesale", my yellow pages even lists "Pionite" in this category

Okay thanks, I was hoping to hear it is something people can get at any Lowes or Home Depot.

It looks like there are two very good options for people here as far as a 'use as is' screen. This is excellent because someone may not be able to find one, but can get the other in their area. THIS is what is needed on the forums.

Thanks again hg57

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #87 of 2849 Old 08-27-2006, 06:11 AM
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I need to rearrange our family room that also serves as our 'theater'. I've been happy with Silver Screen for the past 2+ years with the Panasonic 500. This thread on the WilsonArt laminate has me wanting to build this screen. I'm perfectly happy with the 500 so I have no plans to upgrade the projector.

This is a basement with good light control, plus I do most of my watching at night anyway. Do you experts have a suggestion with going with a grey laminate or should I go with the white. My reference is Behr SS which I am happy with.

Thanks for your thoughts.

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post #88 of 2849 Old 08-27-2006, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I will be ordering a panel of Designer White. I only watch movies at night and ambient light isn't a problem for me. I'll probably order some other colors, but we're trying to get some color data on the grays first.

Right now from a purely visual comparison, when I hold the samples up next to my Silver Screen 'screen' Fashion Grey is very close but just a shade lighter. This means it probably still has the blue push that Silver Screen has.

Dove Grey looked like a contender, but I think it's probably way too dark and only those that like a Firehawk screen would like something this dark. Featherstone just doesn't look right, I can't describe why, just that it looks off and not suitable. Platinum looks to be a little on the purplish side to me.

So that leaves Grey and Fashion Grey for possibilities, and like I said I think Fashion Grey would be essentially the same as a Silver Screen application. The Grey looked the most promising and looks a lot more toward neutral than the rest. Right now we all know with light control or evening viewing (for those of us that need it the most I should say) Designer White will work, we need more data and testing on the grays.

I'm sending a sample package to Prof to run through the photospectrometer to get the breakdown and RGB values so we can add them to the chart. Wilsonart is also checking to see if they can make a neutral gray from a sample as Ericglo has suggested. Until we get all that data and information, Designer is the only color I can comfortably recommend. HG57 also has an alternative in the Pionite suede finish, but that's not available in my area (seems like hardly anything is available up here!)

I hope that answered your question along with a reason why Designer is the recommendation....

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #89 of 2849 Old 08-27-2006, 03:19 PM
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Well.. I have a Panny 900 and currently have been using a BOC screen. The results have been nice, however I've been following the painting (Tiddler's work, thanks) threads and was going to go the route of painting.

That was until I ran across this thread and the Designer White Laminate by Wilsonart. I ordered my 5'x10' sheet today, it will be in on Thursday and I hope to get everything up and running over the Labor Day weekend (I'll need to make a new boarder for this screen and I need to find a 40% JoAnn's Fabric coupon between now and then!).

I went ahead and had the gentleman at Home Depot give the Designer White a check on their machine (not the one the public can use at the Behr stand, but the "behind the counter" version they use to mix paint with.

These are the results for a color match according to my local Home Depot:

Colorant / 48ths of an ounce / 96ths of an ounce

Lamp Black / 2 / 1
Raw Umber / 2 / 0

I've been looking at various paints and their formulations... I found one off the shelf with is simply Lamp Black (Behr Twilight Gray, though I seem to recall from readings on here that gives a blue push due to some component of the lamp black, please correct me if I am wrong)

The 5'x10' sheet was $80, plus $15 shipping and handling, then tax (6% in Michigan), so total was $100.70. I figure this way I can always still paint my BOC screen or even this laminate if I so desire.

Next question is... do I make a 2 1/4" or a 3" boarder on this screen? My current screen (105") has only a 3/4" boarder which isn't near enough of a real boarder. I plan on using the MDF primed casing at Home Depot... the 2 1/4" high stuff is only $0.69 / ft and the 3" stuff is $1.06 a ft.
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post #90 of 2849 Old 08-27-2006, 03:57 PM
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Nevamar makes what they claim is a neutral gray - Studio Gray

Studio gray

I know this isn't accurate but a quick look in PS from their sample image shows:

R: 200
G: 200
B: 200

Maybe Prof can analyze? I would be glad to send a sample, or their website has a free order form.

Most HD and Lowes will special order Nevamar.
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