Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 36 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: What are your screen requirements? (Pick as many as apply)
I want something that is easy to install. 424 18.55%
I want something as inexpensive as possible. 372 16.27%
I want something less than $100. 269 11.77%
I am willing to spend whatever amount is needed as long as it's the best. 68 2.97%
I want a simple one can painted screen option. 68 2.97%
I want an advanced paint mix screen option. 52 2.27%
I want a single material screen option. 290 12.69%
I want something durable. 271 11.85%
I want an ambient light screen. 244 10.67%
I have light control and want a white screen. 235 10.28%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2286. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1051 of 2849 Old 12-02-2006, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kosty View Post

You know I actually knew that as I came across it in my quest, but I forgot about it. Thanks.



So woo hoo thats a :

54.5 inch high x 97 inch wide = 111.2 inch diagonal 16x9 1.78 screen

61.0 inch high x 81.3 inch wide = 101.6 inch diagonal 4x3 1.33 screen

and a

41.5 inch high x 97,7 inch = 105 inch diagonal 2:35 to 1 screen

Gotta love it

You can get a sheet in a 5x12 size and 5x10 size. So for a 2:35 to 1 screen, you could go 61 inches x 144 inches. For a 16 x 9 screen, you can go 61 inches x 108 inches.

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post #1052 of 2849 Old 12-02-2006, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericglo View Post

You can get a sheet in a 5x12 size and 5x10 size. So for a 2:35 to 1 screen, you could go 61 inches x 144 inches. For a 16 x 9 screen, you can go 61 inches x 108 inches.

Thanks

In my case I am limited to 100 inch wide for my theater. of course others don't have the same considerations I have. For a little bit more those sizes make a lot of sense.

61x108 is a 124 diagonal 16:9 screen

Thats a monster!

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post #1053 of 2849 Old 12-02-2006, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kosty View Post

61x108 is a 124 diagonal 16:9 screen

Thats a monster!

But a very lovable monster
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post #1054 of 2849 Old 12-03-2006, 06:27 AM
 
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Fashion Grey Update Part Deux:

Purchased a quart of Behr Flat Latex Poly. It was sold in a quart can by the faux finishes, not by the normal polys. Took a couple scrap pieces and brushed some on. The can said it dries in about an hour. 45 minutes later it was dry to the touch. Taped a piece on the screen. Holy hotspots! I'm starting to think that the 'hotspotting' I had seen previously was not 'hotspotting' at all. At that point I decided to let it dry/cure some more. A few hour later I taped it up again and while it still hotspotted, it wasn't as bad as previously tested.

This was last night. And this was while watching hockey in HD (the only time I notice the subtle hint of hotspotting with the FG). As stated previously, when watching anything without a white background, FG doesn't hotspot. I don't know if that's the norm or not but that's how it is at my house...

When I get home later today, I'll check the poly coated pieces again and take some pics. Hopefully the hotspotting will tone down some. The FG sans poly was definetly looking much better last night vs poly'd FG.

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post #1055 of 2849 Old 12-03-2006, 07:46 AM
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What should I use to mount my DW to a piece of hardboard??? I have read some use liquid nails or contact cement, what about staples or screws, what are your opinions??? The hardboard is 78 x 46 and will have a 3" black velvet boader using mdf baseboard and will use the hangman system to mount to wall. Any tips would be great.

Mark
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post #1056 of 2849 Old 12-03-2006, 12:44 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gulfguru View Post

What should I use to mount my DW to a piece of hardboard??? I have read some use liquid nails or contact cement, what about staples or screws, what are your opinions??? The hardboard is 78 x 46 and will have a 3" black velvet boader using mdf baseboard and will use the hangman system to mount to wall. Any tips would be great.

Mark

I used 3m spray adhesive. On the can it said for laminates. You'd probably need more than the 1 can that I used to mount it to just a 1X4 frame. They make laminate adhesive that can be troweled out for countertops. That's what I'd use in your situation.

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post #1057 of 2849 Old 12-03-2006, 04:04 PM
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I saw the images of the wilsonart...then the price and knew what I had to do. My previous screen was a damat 8' pulldown.

I ordered 10'X5' from a local custom cabinet shop...cost $125 B2B total cost...went to HD and picked up 4 lengths of 1X2X10' total cost $9.28.

Spent 1.5 hours cutting, nailing then Glueing things together, then hung it on the wall. I immediately noticed a HUGE difference in color and clarity!!!

It's going to take a while for me to get smart enough to stop loving this screen...
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post #1058 of 2849 Old 12-04-2006, 02:06 PM
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Came across this at the Wilsonart site, under the designer section

Product Tech Data Sheet on the laminates

http://www.wilsonart.com/productlib/...e/Basiclam.pdf

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post #1059 of 2849 Old 12-04-2006, 02:14 PM
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Quote:


#60 Matte
Textured finish with a moderate reflective quality. Recommended for horizontal and vertical application. Glossometer reading: MD and CD 10 ± 2.

Quote:


NOTE: Glossometer readings are made at a 60° angle of incidence. MD refers to the machine direction of a laminate sheet, and CD refers to the cross direction

Not sure what a glossometer is but maybe this makes sense to someone
Quote:


Standard Sheet Widths
36 48 60 914mm 1219mm 1524mm
Standard Sheet Lengths
96 120 144 2438mm 3048mm 3658mm

Quote:


Thickness and Weight
Description 107 335 350
Thickness 0.048 ± 0.005 (1.22mm ± 0.13mm)
0.028 + 0.001 - 0.004 (0.7mm + 0.03 - 0.10mm)
0.039 ± 0.005 (0.99mm ± 0.13mm)

Weight per square foot
0.322# 0.186# 0.260#

I would guess the DW as a code number of D354-60 might be similar to the 350 specs

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post #1060 of 2849 Old 12-05-2006, 01:42 AM
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Here goes my first post, please be gentle.

I just bought a Optoma HD70, (which rocks by the way), and after much much much reading and deliberation and phone calls and headaches ect...ect... I just bought a $14 3/4" 4x8' sheet of Melamine from HD and leaned the damn thing against the wall.

I did my initial projector setup and checked out a few videos and images. Deciding that it past the porn test, I moved on to the HD video/game content.

It looks amazing and I just can't stop giggling. Yes I giggled and I feel no less a man. So far none of my friends have any complaints about the melamine as a projection screen, but I keep asking myself how good can I get a cheap solution to be.

My main problem is that I like to have a little ambient light in the room. By the sounds of it the Wilsonart seems to be better, but only in complete darkness. From all I read and forgot and reread and confused myself and contraditions and . . . umm .. where was I... oh yeah my melamine really isn't that bad of a choice for me.

In summary is there a solution that will look better in low lighting than this melamine, to the point where I will be overjoyed that I spent the additional funds or should I just stick with it. I'm very pleased with my screen right now but a little contrast bump would be nice.

***PLEASE HEAR MY PLEE*** Is there any chance that this will be turned into a wiki. It's far too much information to properly process and assess in under 5 sittings and then you can't remember what page that one piece of info you wanted to reread was on.

Thanks for all you help so far.
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post #1061 of 2849 Old 12-05-2006, 11:53 AM - Thread Starter
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I went through all 37 pages and made an index at the bottom of the first post with the highlights from the thread.

If anyone would like something added PM me and I will add it as well.

I will probably rework the entire first post when I get some time. It took three hours to go through everything and throw that index together so I'm taking a break before redoing the entire first post!

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #1062 of 2849 Old 12-05-2006, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preacher001 View Post

Here goes my first post, please be gentle.

I just bought a Optoma HD70, (which rocks by the way), and after much much much reading and deliberation and phone calls and headaches ect...ect... I just bought a $14 3/4" 4x8' sheet of Melamine from HD and leaned the damn thing against the wall.

I did my initial projector setup and checked out a few videos and images. Deciding that it past the porn test, I moved on to the HD video/game content.

It looks amazing and I just can't stop giggling. Yes I giggled and I feel no less a man. So far none of my friends have any complaints about the melamine as a projection screen, but I keep asking myself how good can I get a cheap solution to be.

My main problem is that I like to have a little ambient light in the room. By the sounds of it the Wilsonart seems to be better, but only in complete darkness. From all I read and forgot and reread and confused myself and contraditions and . . . umm .. where was I... oh yeah my melamine really isn't that bad of a choice for me.

In summary is there a solution that will look better in low lighting than this melamine, to the point where I will be overjoyed that I spent the additional funds or should I just stick with it. I'm very pleased with my screen right now but a little contrast bump would be nice.

***PLEASE HEAR MY PLEE*** Is there any chance that this will be turned into a wiki. It's far too much information to properly process and assess in under 5 sittings and then you can't remember what page that one piece of info you wanted to reread was on.

Thanks for all you help so far.

Order a 2 x3 sample of designer white and dove grey from Wilson art, or spend $80 to order a 4x8 or 5x8 sheet of the dove grey and try it out.

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post #1063 of 2849 Old 12-05-2006, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

I went through all 37 pages and made an index at the bottom of the first post with the highlights from the thread.

If anyone would like something added PM me and I will add it as well.

I will probably rework the entire first post when I get some time. It took three hours to go through everything and throw that index together so I'm taking a break before redoing the entire first post!

You sir are a Saint! Can I buy you a beer!
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post #1064 of 2849 Old 12-05-2006, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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lol well you haven't seen the size of that first post have you? I already exceeded the maximum number of images allowed in one post! I plan on redoing the whole first post soon to clean it up and make it easier to find things among the 1000 plus posts in this thread.

This thread is only four months old and we are the second highest active thread thanks to the interest of everyone and the contributions by Clarence, Ericglo, HG57 for reintroducting laminates to everyone and all their input. Plus all the people that have taken the time to do some testing as well as show their results-- I made a few notes in the index of some people's posts and efforts, and if I left anyone out I did not mean to. Everyone has contributed to this thread and I am proud to be part of it.

I am not sure why this time around it took off, maybe it was the extra effort made to get some data and testing done (thank you Prof for running some tests for me ), maybe it was the ease of construction... as a simple method that performs extremely well i still feel it is an excellent material and option that performs on par with mid to high end commercial screens.

DIY has many excellent methods, those of us that are hooked know between the advanced mixes, simple but very effective methods like laminates, Do-able, Parkland, and I would like to soon say off the self neutral grays too... we've come a long way from bed sheets and window blinds and are finally starting to get some actual respect from the main screen forum too. With all due respect to Projector Central, our simple methods in here that cost less than $100 far exceed the $100 DIY screen that was featured there. Hat's off to everyone!

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #1065 of 2849 Old 12-05-2006, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I had this posted earlier but deleted it when I was a bit upset and thinking about leaving the forum. I removed a lot of posts that day, but this is one that should have stayed up. I wanted to include it in the index so I have to repost it, so here it is...

... A quick screen Primer.

fL- (foot Lamberts)
Foot lamberts relates to how bright the screen actually is.
To calculate fL, take the number of ANSI Lumens of your projector and divide it by the screen size in square feet (area), then multiply that by the screen's gain. For example a projector with an output of 400 ANSI lumens matched with a 100" screen (60" by 80" which is 33.34 square feet) with a gain of 1.3 will produce an image with a brightness of 15.6 fL.

Here is the math formula:

ANSI Lumens of projector
------------------------- X screen gain = foot lamberts
Square footage of screen

(SDTV measures between 25-35 fL)

Screen Types

Diffusion Screens

When the projector light hits the screen it scatters in all directions evenly. This allows a very wide viewing angle with the least amount of hot spotting, but it also tends to be the dimmest type of screen because the light that hits the screen is scattered evenly and not directed back towards your eyes. Most diffusion style screens will have a gain of around 1. One of the big advantage of a diffusion screen is it allows the largest viewing angle. The image is usually equally bright across the screen for most seating positions. Painted screens fall into the diffusion screen category unless special reflective properties were added to a top coating to change the type of reflectivity of the screen.


Reflective Screens

Reflective screens contain a special top layer and texture which increases the reflective properties of the screen. This style of screen is suitable for rooms with some ambient light or for projectors with lower light output. These screens reflect light in the opposite direction of the projector (the incident angle equals the reflected angle, like a pool ball bouncing off the rail) and are best when used with ceiling mounted projectors. Reflective screens have a slightly smaller viewing angle than diffusion style screens, but the viewing angle is still quite good. Most commercial screens for LCD's and DLP projectors are reflective screens.

Retroreflective Screens

Retroreflective screens reflect the light primarily in the direction of the projector, like how a traffic sign reflects your car headlights back towards you (otherwise the signs wouldn't work, or at least be as bright) The recommended projector setup for a retroreflective screen is either a floor or table setup. Retroreflective screens tend to have a high gain value (2+). The viewing angle of a retroreflective screen is the smallest. Some may exhibit hot spotting as well, especially with higher lumen projectors. There are screens with less than a 2.0 gain that are retroreflective. The Stewart FireHawk is one example of a lower gain retroreflective screen.


Hot Spotting

Hot spotting is being mentioned, so for anyone new that really isn't sure what it is, here it is:
This is an extreme example but it demonstrates what hot spotting is quite well.

Hot spotting is when the center of the image will be brighter than the edges. Again this is not a problem with low gain screens but can become a problem for screens with a higher gain. Hot spotting is caused by insufficient light diffusion, or excessively high lumens hitting a reflective screen with a gain usually greater than 1.0.

It is important to note that DIY isn't solely susceptible to this problem, people encounter it all the time with commercial screens too.

There are a few ways to combat hot spotting if it is an issue. The first thing to try is to lower the projector brightness some, but this may not be acceptable because it will also decrease the overall image brightness. Another way is through the use of inexpensive ND filters, but really the issue in the previous posts is to identify why it is happening before jumping on making alterations and adding filters.


It is possible this is what's happening with some setups that are shooting straight on: With the projector more at a straight on angle hitting a reflective surface, the incident angle is greatly reduced, causing more light to be reflected back on the axis and on center of the projected image. This would make sense, but it is only a working theory at this point.

The same setup with a diffusion type screen surface would look a little different as far as the reflected light pattern. Light would still tend to be brighter in the center of the screen, but since it is being defused in more directions it is not as intense or noticeable. Again, this is only a working theory, but based on some of the previously reported setups and results it does seem to make sense.

If this is what is happening, I think it is a perfect example of how everyone's setup and situation is different. What works wonders for one person may not work at all for someone else, or at best yield inferior results. I wouldn't say though that it means the painted screen with diffusion properties is better than a reflective material like a laminate, or that laminates are better... they are just different and that is something everyone should keep in mind.

If after everything else fails, or it is impossible to reposition the projector, another great benefit of laminates is that they are not only extremely tough, but flexible. This makes them perfect candidates for a curved screen. (Curved screens aren't all bad and can even look exotic to some)

The purpose of a curved screen is to direct all the light that is projected to the screen back to the viewer. With a flat screen light bounces off the screen and around the room. With a curved screen most of the light is bounced back to the viewer which results in a very bright image. Curved screens tend to have a very high gain value, i.e. a gain of 13 is common. A curved screen can get away with such a high gain because it essentially turns the entire screen into a giant hot spot so there is no visible hot spot. Laminates do not have gain anywhere near that high, but a slight curve would have the same effect.

If hot spotting is an issue but other than that the picture is fine, a slight curve could resolve the problem without the need of ND filters, repositioning the projector, or going with a different screen. It also should be mentioned that as pointed out, all projectors are dimmer towards the edges of the screen than in the center. Sometimes in very bright scenes and for some projectors this can be slightly noticeable-- but that is not hot spotting, it is just an inherent characteristic of projectors that some may perceive as hot spotting because some scenes look brighter on center than the edges. True hot spotting is pretty easy to recognize.

Bill

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post #1066 of 2849 Old 12-05-2006, 10:29 PM
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I have a Mitsu HD100U on the way. I have a ton of wiring to do yet and had to order various connectors/wallplates/wiring from no less than 4 different companies 1. to get "just" what I wanted and 2. to come in at a reasonable budget, so this may not be instant gratification for anyone (myself included)

In the interest of progress and after much reading, it seems the Dove Grey has the appropriate RGB spec to at least be a decent contender among the WilsonArt laminates. So considering the below facts:
1. I have medium+ ambient light that is not real controllable
2. I have a MAX of 80" screen size (11' throw is just about max I can do)
3. I have a projector capable of at least 25fL (assuming ~ 0.75 gain on Dove Grey)

So has ANYBODY done a full size screen of Dove Grey? And am I wrong in thinking I am the ideal candidate to try Dove Grey?

P.S. Don't lie to me just because I have money to waste on laminate.
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post #1067 of 2849 Old 12-05-2006, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpiotro View Post

I have a Mitsu HD100U on the way. I have a ton of wiring to do yet and had to order various connectors/wallplates/wiring from no less than 4 different companies 1. to get "just" what I wanted and 2. to come in at a reasonable budget, so this may not be instant gratification for anyone (myself included)

In the interest of progress and after much reading, it seems the Dove Grey has the appropriate RGB spec to at least be a decent contender among the WilsonArt laminates. So considering the below facts:
1. I have medium+ ambient light that is not real controllable
2. I have a MAX of 80" screen size (11' throw is just about max I can do)
3. I have a projector capable of at least 25fL (assuming ~ 0.75 gain on Dove Grey)

So has ANYBODY done a full size screen of Dove Grey? And am I wrong in thinking I am the ideal candidate to try Dove Grey?

P.S. Don't lie to me just because I have money to waste on laminate.

I just tested a sample of Dove Gray, and I don't recommend it. Though it is a rather dark gray, on-axis gain is .93, and half gain angle is less than 20°. This means that much of the on-axis gain is from specularity, and this is a recipe for hot-spotting. For a more detailed explanation, see Post 1062 of this thread.

I do think you'd be very pleased with one of the darker neutral shades in this thread: Grays - Simple one can paints - if you're open to painting.

Garry
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post #1068 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof55 View Post

I just tested a sample of Dove Gray, and I don't recommend it. Though it is a rather dark gray, on-axis gain is .93, and half gain angle is less than 20°. This means that much of the on-axis gain is from specularity, and this is a recipe for hot-spotting. For a more detailed explanation, see Post 1062 of this thread.

I do think you'd be very pleased with one of the darker neutral shades in this thread: Grays - Simple one can paints - if you're open to painting.

Garry

Good information.
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post #1069 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

lol well you haven't seen the size of that first post have you? I already exceeded the maximum number of images allowed in one post! I plan on redoing the whole first post soon to clean it up and make it easier to find things among the 1000 plus posts in this thread.

Seriously, you did a great job. Looks awesome and every helpful.
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post #1070 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 09:36 AM
 
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Fashion Grey Update:

I rolled a coating of the Behr Matte Poly on my screen yesterday. Anyone who has a FG laminate but are thinking of getting rid of it, try the poly. It pretty much eliminated the tiny bit of hotspotting that I could see.

I'd post some new pics but... I had a bad day yesterday. After putting the screen up and marveling at the job the poly did, I sat down to test it out on an HD hockey recording. It was at that time that I noticed an, ever so slight, bump of poly in my main viewing area. I believe it was a roller mark that I didn't catch. It proceeded to tick me off enough that I ended up sanding it. Today I will try another coat of poly. If that doesn't work, it's off to Wilsonart for another sheet.

You want odds? I'd say 70-30 I'm gonna end up back at wilsonart tomorrow.

Hopefully this second coat of poly fixes rather than ruins my screwup!

A note to all poly rollers, make sure you have excellent lighting so you can view the surface for screwups like mine. I'm moving my twin halogen tripod downstairs before I start this time. Also, the poly rolled on easily with a foam roller for smooth finishes. Dried in about an hour. Took at least 3 or 4 hours for it to cure enough to watch TV.

mech
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post #1071 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 09:51 AM
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Wow, the grey laminates don't seem to fairing well right now. Interesting. While my plan was to go get a laminate this week, plans have changed. While my PJ should be here on Friday, I just found out I have to go out of town on Sunday for a full week. So I think I will try to get the PJ up over the weekend and "test it" hopefully with my current screen (white cloth).

I still want to do a laminate as I want a bigger screen and don't want to paint. But I want to see how the HD70 does with the white that I have and the lighting that I have before a final decision on the color of the laminate.
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post #1072 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 10:08 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Sdallnct View Post

Wow, the grey laminates don't seem to fairing well right now. Interesting.

Mine would be fairing wonderfully right now if I would've done a good job on the poly. grrrrrrr....

mech
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post #1073 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mpiotro View Post

So has ANYBODY done a full size screen of Dove Grey? And am I wrong in thinking I am the ideal candidate to try Dove Grey?

P.S. Don't lie to me just because I have money to waste on laminate.

I came to the same conclusion after reading through pages 1-30 or so of this thread, and yes, I actually bought and installed a 100" diag piece of Dove Grey. I have a few pics on page 32 of this thread. While hotspotting is apparently a "hot" topic here, I have not personally seen any problem with my screen. My photos appear to show some hotspotting, but this is not as obvious to me looking at the screen in person. I have certainly found though, that different signals, i.e., DVD, TV, Playstation, definitely tend to give different brightness output, so I have set different memory settings for different types of viewing.

I have been very happy with the overall cost effectiveness and easy of use of the laminate. It was inexpensive, easy to install, functions great with ambiant light and to looks great to me in low light. I am still working on upgrading components to HD, so the pics are with a 480p resolution and I have no doubt my picture will be even better when I finally get up to 720 or 1080i.

Overall, I have come to the conclusion that there is not one screen that will be ideal for every situation. So you just have to decide what's important to you and what will work with your particular set up. My room is fairly narrow at 13 feet, so angled viewing is not much of an issue. I wanted to be able to watch TV and movies with some light on in the room and my set up with the Dove Grey works well for that purpose. I can see how the issue of texture might bother some people, as I notice it some in brighter screen shots, primarily with regular TV, but it doesn't bother me. The poly may help this though, so I might do some testing with this myself. Otherwise, I have greatly benefited from and appreciated everyone's input here and am personally very pleased with my media room and screen!
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post #1074 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof55 View Post

I just tested a sample of Dove Gray, and I don't recommend it. Though it is a rather dark gray, on-axis gain is .93, and half gain angle is less than 20°. This means that much of the on-axis gain is from specularity, and this is a recipe for hot-spotting. For a more detailed explanation, see Post 1062 of this thread.

I do think you'd be very pleased with one of the darker neutral shades in this thread: Grays - Simple one can paints - if you're open to painting.

Garry



I think whether Dove Grey hotspots will depend mostly on how it is used. If used in the retroreflective mode it will probably hotspot but if used in the angular reflective mode it may not.
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post #1075 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 11:07 AM
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...but it is waaaayyy too long and i guess i'm just impatient

quick question:

* i have an optoma movietime (1000 lumens i think)
* i have a 5'x10' wall painted with behr silverscreen

it's a little dark for me
(my main tv is a plasma, so i'm sure that's the problem, switching between them)

Q: what is the gain on the wilsonart dw ? in your opinion will that give me the brightness "punch" i'm looking for ?

thanks!

stephen
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post #1076 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sshep12345 View Post

...but it is waaaayyy too long and i guess i'm just impatient

quick question:

* i have an optoma movietime (1000 lumens i think)
* i have a 5'x10' wall painted with behr silverscreen

it's a little dark for me
(my main tv is a plasma, so i'm sure that's the problem, switching between them)

Q: what is the gain on the wilsonart dw ? in your opinion will that give me the brightness "punch" i'm looking for ?

thanks!

stephen


DW has a gain of around 1.2. I used to have a BOC screen and the DW definitely adds more punch to the images. I see you have an Optoma Movietime projector which means the DW may hot spot because of the tighter viewing angle between your projector and your head.
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post #1077 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 11:27 AM
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thank you!
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post #1078 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 01:52 PM
 
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Fashion Grey update

The second coat of poly took real well. Hotspots are a non factor and it's a great image! I haven't had time to run DVE yet or to take more pics. It may have to wait until next week.

If you want an ambient light laminate, and you don't mind rolling a coat of poly, Fashion Grey may be the laminate for you.

mech

PS I won't be going back to Wilsonart
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post #1079 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 02:01 PM
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Great news Mech! How 'bout a screenie? -j
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post #1080 of 2849 Old 12-06-2006, 02:02 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpiotro View Post

I have a Mitsu HD100U on the way. I have a ton of wiring to do yet and had to order various connectors/wallplates/wiring from no less than 4 different companies 1. to get "just" what I wanted and 2. to come in at a reasonable budget, so this may not be instant gratification for anyone (myself included)

In the interest of progress and after much reading, it seems the Dove Grey has the appropriate RGB spec to at least be a decent contender among the WilsonArt laminates. So considering the below facts:
1. I have medium+ ambient light that is not real controllable
2. I have a MAX of 80" screen size (11' throw is just about max I can do)
3. I have a projector capable of at least 25fL (assuming ~ 0.75 gain on Dove Grey)

So has ANYBODY done a full size screen of Dove Grey? And am I wrong in thinking I am the ideal candidate to try Dove Grey?

P.S. Don't lie to me just because I have money to waste on laminate.


Kevphol and myself both have Mitsu hc3000's. Kevphol has a Dove Grey and I have a Fashion Grey. We both like our screens very much. There are some pics of both back a few pages. I know I've posted a plethora of pics and there's more to come soon (hopefully the end!).

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