Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 46 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: What are your screen requirements? (Pick as many as apply)
I want something that is easy to install. 422 18.49%
I want something as inexpensive as possible. 370 16.21%
I want something less than $100. 269 11.79%
I am willing to spend whatever amount is needed as long as it's the best. 66 2.89%
I want a simple one can painted screen option. 68 2.98%
I want an advanced paint mix screen option. 51 2.23%
I want a single material screen option. 289 12.66%
I want something durable. 270 11.83%
I want an ambient light screen. 244 10.69%
I have light control and want a white screen. 233 10.21%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2282. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1351 of 2849 Old 01-07-2007, 06:36 PM
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Quote:


originally posted by phisch

Tom

Do you plan to use a contact cement to attach the laminate to the back, or a general purpose type glue?

Yes, I plan to use one of the materials's described by bud16415's adhesive posting linked from the index posting, although I haven't spent time reading all the labels yet. These are the adhesives that you apply to both materials and let dry and then activate by contact/pressure -- hopefully working from the center outward and without bubbles or wrinkles.

After I read the labels and probably make a small test first, if I find the contact patch is somewhat sporadic (typically you smooth the two pieces together (maybe 6x6 inch mdf with 7x7 inch DW scrap) then you peel them apart and see how it looks), then I may "seal" the mdf first with some sort of leveler. Especially since my screen is a little bigger than 4x8 and I'll have 5 pieces of MDF instead of one. I learned this sealing aspect at a wood cabinet factory I was visiting years ago where they printed the wood grain on the MDF panels, but to make the printer really run fast like a photocopier they had to squeegee on a microscopic layer of filler first before they ran the panel through the printing rollers. I expect I won't need to do that, but I will be making a test panel first to assess the coverage.
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post #1352 of 2849 Old 01-08-2007, 06:28 AM
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you would think the forum software would be smart enough to change yellow text when you're using the AVS White scheme....

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post #1353 of 2849 Old 01-08-2007, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phisch View Post

Tom

Do you plan to use a contact cement to attach the laminate to the back, or a general purpose type glue?

For those planning to use contact cement to attach the laminate to a substrate, (e.g. mdf, plywood, etc), a common method is to use wax paper to separate the two surfaces until you get them precisely aligned. Then starting at one end, remove a strip of wax paper and firmly press the surfaces together.....a rolling pin works well. Proceed by removing the wax paper, a strip at a time, and rolling the newly "contacted" surfaces. Keep going until you reach the far end....and you're done. Conversely, if you inadvertently let the cemented surfaces bond in the "wrong" place, it's VERY hard, almost impossible to separate them with out breaking the laminate.

BTW, Wilsonart distributors carry contact cement in various sizes and at more reasonable prices than HD.

-Chuck
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post #1354 of 2849 Old 01-08-2007, 05:31 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phisch View Post

Tom

Do you plan to use a contact cement to attach the laminate to the back, or a general purpose type glue?

I used 3M 90 Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive in a spray can. Available just about anywhere.

mech
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post #1355 of 2849 Old 01-08-2007, 05:35 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catnip911 View Post

For those planning to use contact cement to attach the laminate to a substrate, (e.g. mdf, plywood, etc), a common method is to use wax paper to separate the two surfaces until you get them precisely aligned. Then starting at one end, remove a strip of wax paper and firmly press the surfaces together.....a rolling pin works well. Proceed by removing the wax paper, a strip at a time, and rolling the newly "contacted" surfaces. Keep going until you reach the far end....and you're done. Conversely, if you inadvertently let the cemented surfaces bond in the "wrong" place, it's VERY hard, almost impossible to separate them with out breaking the laminate.

BTW, Wilsonart distributors carry contact cement in various sizes and at more reasonable prices than HD.

The way I did it was similar to the way you would do a countertop. Apply the adhesive to both surfaces and then I used broom handles (5 of them spaced equally) on top of my frame. The broom handles being between the laminate and the frame until you're ready. I then lined up a corner getting both edges flush. Slowly work your way across, pulling out the broom handles and adhering the 2 parts together. After this is done, then you trim it.

mech
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post #1356 of 2849 Old 01-08-2007, 09:58 PM
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Hey guys... if you special order your laminate, be sure to inspect it before you take it home. I special ordered mine from Lowes. So, I went in to pick it up (after waiting for 10 days for it to come in). I had the guy open the box because I wanted to verify it had the right number, and to my surprise the 5x8 sheet of laminate was shattered. I was a bit irritated (duh) so they gave me a 20% discount. So, I ended up paying $72 instead of $91. I may have been blamed for it being "broken" if I would have taken it home without inspecting it first.

Krister
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post #1357 of 2849 Old 01-09-2007, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krholmberg View Post

Hey guys... if you special order your laminate, be sure to inspect it before you take it home. I special ordered mine from Lowes. So, I went in to pick it up (after waiting for 10 days for it to come in). I had the guy open the box because I wanted to verify it had the right number, and to my surprise the 5x8 sheet of laminate was shattered. I was a bit irritated (duh) so they gave me a 20% discount. So, I ended up paying $72 instead of $91. I may have been blamed for it being "broken" if I would have taken it home without inspecting it first.

Mine was rolled up with two cardboard protectors wrapped around it. Besides some dirty fingerprints all was well. I'm surprised at your price as I got mine at a Lowe's in Minnesota for $67 and that was regular price.
I made sure the right code was printed on the back and mine actually was marked :
D354-350-60
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post #1358 of 2849 Old 01-09-2007, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraveLayer View Post

Mine was rolled up with two cardboard protectors wrapped around it. Besides some dirty fingerprints all was well. I'm surprised at your price as I got mine at a Lowe's in Minnesota for $67 and that was regular price.
I made sure the right code was printed on the back and mine actually was marked :
D354-350-60

Depends on size of sheet, 4x8s run from $40-70 and the larger sheets obviously more so.
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post #1359 of 2849 Old 01-09-2007, 10:15 AM
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Certain parts of the country are more expensive, too. That's one of the downfalls of living in CA.

Krister
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post #1360 of 2849 Old 01-09-2007, 06:38 PM
 
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My 5X8 FG was $95 direct from Wilsonart in Minnesota.

mech
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post #1361 of 2849 Old 01-09-2007, 07:35 PM
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just got my sheet of DW yesterday . got home put it up and then tested it with last nights poor football game man that was a bad game. Then i played some 360 and played some hd-dvds. I am very dissapointed so far , I cannot tell the diference btw this and my regular old beige wall.
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post #1362 of 2849 Old 01-09-2007, 09:33 PM
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Quote:


just got my sheet of DW yesterday . got home put it up and then tested it with last nights poor football game man that was a bad game. Then i played some 360 and played some hd-dvds. I am very dissapointed so far , I cannot tell the diference btw this and my regular old beige wall

Did you do any calibrations or anything to your PJ to account for the new color/material? From what I have been reading you need to have the PJ calibrated to better take advantage of any new screen. It sounds like yous is still calibrated to look good on your beige wall.
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post #1363 of 2849 Old 01-09-2007, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soransis View Post

Did you do any calibrations or anything to your PJ to account for the new color/material? From what I have been reading you need to have the PJ calibrated to better take advantage of any new screen. It sounds like yous is still calibrated to look good on your beige wall.


Yes you are right. I ran some calibrations last night but played around more with it tonight. I for some reason have to be in a higher lamp mode to get mine to look real good. The scren is better then my wall and I am liking it some more now that i have fully calibrated it for the screen.
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post #1364 of 2849 Old 01-10-2007, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbs16 View Post

Yes you are right. I ran some calibrations last night but played around more with it tonight. I for some reason have to be in a higher lamp mode to get mine to look real good. The scren is better then my wall and I am liking it some more now that i have fully calibrated it for the screen.

What projector?
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post #1365 of 2849 Old 01-10-2007, 05:26 PM
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Sanyo Z2
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post #1366 of 2849 Old 01-12-2007, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKM72 View Post

No worries friend. Not much ambient light at the pool. I used a sheet the other night and people were impressed......just wait 'til I bring a dedicated, framed screen.

"Are you ready for some Football?" .....Pizza, Hot wings......now all I have to work out is the Margarita Machine......


After that all you need is a floating beer box and a hot diggity dawg machine.
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post #1367 of 2849 Old 01-12-2007, 01:43 PM
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I posted some pics of my preliminary comparison of the DW to the three different Carada samples I had in the Laminate Showcase forum (I'm not knocking Carada as I think they make an excellent product comparable to the much more expensive Stewart screens and that was what I was going to order before I took up this project.)

The WilsonArt DW looks to me to be almost a dead ringer to the Classic Cinema White. I am awaiting my Panasonic PT-AX100U and will post some better images when I get that all setup.

Thanks to all the previous posters that helped me find this product. You saved me some big bucks!
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post #1368 of 2849 Old 01-13-2007, 12:27 PM
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Anyone have any luck finding 5X8 sheets of Wilsonart in Canada? Today I was told that all they can source at my local Totem (subsiduary of Rona) is 4X8 or 5X12. Home Depot was a complete wash, as the folks there were less than helpful; rep. said that he didn't think they could not order "small quantities" of Wilsonart laminte, and was not too interested in pursuing it for me.
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post #1369 of 2849 Old 01-13-2007, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgib01 View Post

Anyone have any luck finding 5X8 sheets of Wilsonart in Canada? Today I was told that all they can source at my local Totem (subsiduary of Rona) is 4X8 or 5X12. Home Depot was a complete wash, as the folks there were less than helpful; rep. said that he didn't think they could not order "small quantities" of Wilsonart laminte, and was not too interested in pursuing it for me.

I'm not exactly in your neck of the woods but I have found a local hardware store that can order in one single sheet when the time comes. They are not in Alberta - just in Maritimes, but I have been told that Home Hardware can get them - didn't check them out yet. Also - call a few kitchen cabinet shops in town - the distributor that was supplying my local fellow is called "Bellanger" (I think).

Good Luck
Lewis
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post #1370 of 2849 Old 01-13-2007, 04:21 PM
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Thanks. That at least gives me some hope that they are available north of 49. I have a Home Hardware very close by, but they are not of the building supply variety, so I may have to try some "non-chain" counter-top folks.
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post #1371 of 2849 Old 01-13-2007, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgib01 View Post

Thanks. That at least gives me some hope that they are available north of 49. I have a Home Hardware very close by, but they are not of the building supply variety, so I may have to try some "non-chain" counter-top folks.

For reference I was quoted about 100 bucks for the 4'x8' and 200 for the 5'x12'.....I am only going to need the 4x8 and might either go this route or the black out cloth route - have not decided yet.

Cheers,
Lewis
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post #1372 of 2849 Old 01-14-2007, 06:57 AM
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Here is an alternative method of hanging the laminate and trimming the screen with velvet fabric:



I bought plastic "L" Bead (left) from Home Depot. It is used for sheet rock corners to create a floating reveal expansion or as a finish edge next to 'trimless' window and doors. It happened to be on clearance so each 10 foot length was only 80 cents. I bought four. Using aviation snips I cut off the "L" part leaving a nice fairly rigid plastic stip with convenient holes that happened to be spaced the same as the width of a staple (right). Using 1/4 inch staples I stapled the material as shown then flipped it over the edge as shown in the next photo. The extra material was then stapled to the back in the conventional manner and the corners mitered, etc.



(opposite end shown)

John

Quote:
Originally Posted by nate358 View Post

Hey John,
I was wondering if you put any glue down when stapling the bead to the velvet. I really like this idea and have already bought everything to make my frame. I was wondering if you had any tips... did you start in the center and work out? or just start at one end and work around? How far apart were your staples....2 or 3 inches apart? The only thing different I'm doing is running a 2x2in along the edge of the frame to raise the velvet. Thanks
~Nathan

No glue was necessary.

I started from one end and worked around. I spaced the staples around 4 inches apart. I found the velvet border to be raised up enough after doing what I did, but if you want to use the 2x2 along the edge it will look different than what I did since the 2x2 is actually only 1 1/2 inches wide. Mine was a 5 x 8 sheet, so the larger border looked better and I often overshoot the projected image onto the velvet depending upon how the movie ends up being scaled by my HD DVD player and whether or not I am placing the projector in a position that is inviting keystoning. I compensate for keystoning by overshooting. Thick frames look funny when overshooting as opposed to flatter looking ones.

John
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post #1373 of 2849 Old 01-15-2007, 05:33 AM
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I made a 1 x 4 frame with a 1 x 3 inner frame. This allows you to have a frame that "snaps over the screen no matter the material. It also makes attaching the velvet or border material easier. Chcek my pics in my theater. link in sig.
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post #1374 of 2849 Old 01-15-2007, 12:37 PM
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Are most people buying the vertical grade? I only ask because I read that some people are having problems getting it to lay flat. Also, is there a price difference between V Grade and General Grade?

I am torn between DW and FG. I can completely control the light in my room, but I want to use the room for general HD tv viewing and gaming which may need some low lighting. I am planning on using the mitsu HD1000.
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post #1375 of 2849 Old 01-15-2007, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caddy-shak` View Post

Are most people buying the vertical grade? I only ask because I read that some people are having problems getting it to lay flat. Also, is there a price difference between V Grade and G Grade?

Stick with the General Purpose grade, that is what most people are getting (unless specified that is typically the grade ordered by default) unless you are planning on mounting the thinner vertical grade to the wall or a backboard.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #1376 of 2849 Old 01-15-2007, 12:52 PM
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OK, that answers that question. Now...

I am torn between DW and FG. I can completely control the light in my room, but I want to use the room for general HD tv viewing and gaming which may need some low lighting. I am planning on using the mitsu HD1000.
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post #1377 of 2849 Old 01-15-2007, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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1500 lumens and 2500:1 CR you can definitely handle the darker FG, but with that amount of light out and the higher surface specularity of Fashion Gray you will most likely need a poly coating so be aware of that in your decision.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #1378 of 2849 Old 01-15-2007, 01:29 PM
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I saw posts with rope lighting around the frame. Is this for looks or does it play some part in the quality of the picture?
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post #1379 of 2849 Old 01-15-2007, 01:38 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caddy-shak` View Post

I saw posts with rope lighting around the frame. Is this for looks or does it play some part in the quality of the picture?

Looks only.

mech
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post #1380 of 2849 Old 01-15-2007, 01:41 PM
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So will the FG perform in no light situations as well? I'm looking for all occasions material
Even if I have to paint with poly, it sounds like the better way to go?
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