Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 84 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: What are your screen requirements? (Pick as many as apply)
I want something that is easy to install. 422 18.49%
I want something as inexpensive as possible. 370 16.21%
I want something less than $100. 269 11.79%
I am willing to spend whatever amount is needed as long as it's the best. 66 2.89%
I want a simple one can painted screen option. 68 2.98%
I want an advanced paint mix screen option. 51 2.23%
I want a single material screen option. 289 12.66%
I want something durable. 270 11.83%
I want an ambient light screen. 244 10.69%
I have light control and want a white screen. 233 10.21%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2282. You may not vote on this poll

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post #2491 of 2849 Old 01-18-2009, 08:24 PM
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Hey guys...

I've had a 4'6" x 8' (110" diag) 1:78 Designer White screen fastened to the wall with mirror clips for about 2 years. I also made a black velvet border that works quit well. The only problem: the laminate is pretty wavy. So, after getting sick of the waves, I got a bunch of straight poplar wood from HD, left it laying in the HT for a good month or so (to acclimate to the humidity to avoid warping later on), and finally cut the wood today. After sanding the wood, I will put the frame together with wood glue and pocket screws (with the help of a Kreg Jig... look it up on Amazon). Now, I plan on priming it and painting it black, but besides that, should I do anything else to seal it from moisture to keep it from warping? I'll post photos later (my wife is out of town with the camera), but the design of the frame should minimze the chance of warpage, plus I'm going to mount it to the wall with dual French cleats (top and bottom). As for gluing the laminate to the frame, I got contact cement and a bunch of dowels to make the process easier... and I know I'm only supposed to use the contact cement around the edge of the screen. One more question, as stated above, I plan on priming and painting the frame, but should I avoid painting and priming the part of the frame that the laminate will be glued to? Seems kind of obvious but better to ask before than after. I'll be sure to post photos after my wife gets back. Thanks in advance.

Krister
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post #2492 of 2849 Old 01-19-2009, 08:36 AM
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Me too, something easy to install goes beyond a must. After struggling with the screen, I opted to do my own stiff wood screen. I was lucky to find a perfect white boardish type material, sealed the cut out edges with white silicone (lightly) and made sure it wasn't too glossy with some rougher car polish. Will shoot some pics to show off the thing...
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post #2493 of 2849 Old 01-20-2009, 04:45 PM
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wbassett, I need your advice! Please make some room in your PM box.

Justin
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post #2494 of 2849 Old 01-21-2009, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krholmberg View Post

Hey guys...

I've had a 4'6" x 8' (110" diag) 1:78 Designer White screen fastened to the wall with mirror clips for about 2 years. I also made a black velvet border that works quit well. The only problem: the laminate is pretty wavy. So, after getting sick of the waves, I got a bunch of straight poplar wood from HD, left it laying in the HT for a good month or so (to acclimate to the humidity to avoid warping later on), and finally cut the wood today. After sanding the wood, I will put the frame together with wood glue and pocket screws (with the help of a Kreg Jig... look it up on Amazon). Now, I plan on priming it and painting it black, but besides that, should I do anything else to seal it from moisture to keep it from warping? I'll post photos later (my wife is out of town with the camera), but the design of the frame should minimze the chance of warpage, plus I'm going to mount it to the wall with dual French cleats (top and bottom). As for gluing the laminate to the frame, I got contact cement and a bunch of dowels to make the process easier... and I know I'm only supposed to use the contact cement around the edge of the screen. One more question, as stated above, I plan on priming and painting the frame, but should I avoid painting and priming the part of the frame that the laminate will be glued to? Seems kind of obvious but better to ask before than after. I'll be sure to post photos after my wife gets back. Thanks in advance.

bump

Aside from primer and flat black paint, should anything else be used to seal the wood?

Should the part of the wood that the laminate will be glued to be "naked" or should it also be sealed?

Also, what is the best technique for using contact cement to glue the laminate to the frame? I know we're only supposed use the contact cement around the perimeter, and not on any vertical or horizontal supports. I know that it is supposed to be applied to the back of the laminate and the front of the frame, and we're supposed to wait till it is tacky before putting the two together. I've read some people have used dowels to facilitate easily dropping the laminate into place. But, if using dowels, won't they roll along the contact cement gluing them in place? Obviously that would not be good . Please help!

Thanks!

Krister
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post #2495 of 2849 Old 01-22-2009, 10:49 AM
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Tim-berrrr!!!!

My FG screen fell yesterday while I was at work & the kids were at school
As you can see from the pic I posted above, it wasn't exactly in a permanent position yet (little did I realize how temporary it was...)

The bad news is that it cracked and chipped a bit around where I had the screws holding it to the frame. The good news it that I think I can still salvage it with virtually no impact to my long-term viewing pleasure. Since I still hadn't finished the frame, I should be able to remount it with minimal pain (the laminate popped out in several spots where connected to the frame with screws). There was no damage anywhere beyond about 3" in along the entire edge of the screen material, so my 1x4 would have already covered it!

Testament to the durability of the WilsonArt product, I suppose, since it dropped about 3 feet to the floor (But, no, don't try this at home).
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post #2496 of 2849 Old 01-30-2009, 10:13 AM
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As I posted earlier, I get slight hotspotting with my Mitsu HC5500 setup and my WilsonArt DW screen. I also notice that the screen is a bear to clean without getting streaks. I have been using the Pledge Multi-surface, and a microfiber cloth, but I find that a big clean towel works the best.

Has anybody else found it difficult to get the screen to look totally clean? It seems harder than it should be. . .

Wes
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post #2497 of 2849 Old 01-30-2009, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes nance View Post

As I posted earlier, I get slight hotspotting with my Mitsu HC5500 setup and my WilsonArt DW screen. I also notice that the screen is a bear to clean without getting streaks. I have been using the Pledge Multi-surface, and a microfiber cloth, but I find that a big clean towel works the best.

Has anybody else found it difficult to get the screen to look totally clean? It seems harder than it should be. . .

Wes

I've never had to do more than use a very clean brush (draftsman's brush) to clean my screen. Do you have little munchkins in the house who touch your screen with dirty fingers?

Some people in the screen and DIY screen forum reported using this product with success:

http://www.simplegreen.com/products_...se_cleaner.php
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post #2498 of 2849 Old 02-02-2009, 09:57 PM
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Can I buy Wilsonart DW online? Lowes and HD claimed that they don't have it.
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post #2499 of 2849 Old 02-03-2009, 05:06 AM
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I couldn't find it online, but I used the WislsonArt locator posted earlier & got a good price from a small shop, available for me to pick up in a week. I was happy with it.
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post #2500 of 2849 Old 02-03-2009, 07:49 AM
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Just thought I would share with those looking to make a screen with laminate and are hesitant or unsure about cutting it.

I cut some Wilsonart laminate this past weekend for a countertop, using a tool like the on this link except it had a plastic handle.
http://grizzly.com/products/Laminate...ng-Knife/H4207

I gotta say that it worked quite nicely. While it was face down and using a level I was able to score in a few passes a nice grove. Then I was to just kept going in that grove without the level. I kept at it until it made the cut all the way through. It made a perfect cut and straight line. I was also able to cut an angled edge for a better fit in a corner. Just be patient and you'll make it all the way thru.

Not sure if anyone has posted this before, just want to help out anyone who may be thinking about this and is kind'a leary about the cut. Go for it, just measure twice...
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post #2501 of 2849 Old 02-03-2009, 08:39 AM
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I made my frame and then glued it to the frame. I used a ROTOZIP Laminate Trim Bit to trim the laminate to the exact fit. It left a very smooth clean cut. I got the bit at Lowes for around $14.

I started by using the laminate cutter and straight edge, it was much easier with the router bit.

Just my two cents.
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post #2502 of 2849 Old 02-03-2009, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Just thought I would share with those looking to make a screen with laminate and are hesitant or unsure about cutting it.

I cut some Wilsonart laminate this past weekend for a countertop, using a tool like the on this link except it had a plastic handle.
http://grizzly.com/products/Laminate...ng-Knife/H4207

I gotta say that it worked quite nicely. While it was face down and using a level I was able to score in a few passes a nice grove. Then I was to just kept going in that grove without the level. I kept at it until it made the cut all the way through. It made a perfect cut and straight line. I was also able to cut an angled edge for a better fit in a corner. Just be patient and you'll make it all the way thru.

Not sure if anyone has posted this before, just want to help out anyone who may be thinking about this and is kind'a leary about the cut. Go for it, just measure twice...


I've used this tool to cut my laminate and find that it does a great job for $10.00. The trick is to make sure you have a straight egde and make two passes before you snap the Laminate. It also cuts clean.

tony4k
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post #2503 of 2849 Old 02-03-2009, 02:22 PM
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I was a little nervous about snapping both because this was my first time and I had a limited amount of material for this specific purpose. I was wondering if it was going to cut through or not. I was pleasantly surprised after continuing to score to hear and see the material cleanly split apart. $10.00 bucks is worth it for the tool if you dont have a dremmel, rotozip, or a router.
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post #2504 of 2849 Old 02-06-2009, 06:52 AM
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Alright, after reading various threads and my limited budget the DW laminate seems to be a good choice. I just wanted to confirm a few things that I read.

1.The biggest size I can make with the screen is 122". Is there any material or way to get close to 135" from this material without seams?
2. There is no reason to paint it, just basically get the material, cut to size, and hang correct?

Thank you for the info.
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post #2505 of 2849 Old 02-06-2009, 08:23 AM
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Another question, has anyone just took the whole sheet and mounted it to their wall? I was thinking about getting the 5x12 and I would have a 122" or so for 16:9 and then zoom outwards to get about 150" screen for 2.40. Is this a viable option?

Edit: I called everyone around me that carries this. The cheapest I could get it is from Lowe's for $132 plus tax for a 5x12 sheet. I can get it in either DW or FG there with a lead time of roughly 10 days. The lady there I talked to was actually helpful (weird for Lowe's in my area) and set aside some samples of each for me to take home and said she would order some more for her. I just basically need to know if it is viable to do what I described in the top part of the post. I know the majority of people set their screens to 16:9 and mask to 2.35, but do many people do a 2.35 screen and mask to 16:9? I guess it is just vertical masking instead of horizontal masking. I would have to adjust the zoom of my projector and lens shift to get it to fit, but I think that would be my best option for affordable, yet big as possible screen.....thoughts?
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post #2506 of 2849 Old 02-06-2009, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes nance View Post

As I posted earlier, I get slight hotspotting with my Mitsu HC5500 setup and my WilsonArt DW screen. I also notice that the screen is a bear to clean without getting streaks. I have been using the Pledge Multi-surface, and a microfiber cloth, but I find that a big clean towel works the best.

Has anybody else found it difficult to get the screen to look totally clean? It seems harder than it should be. . .

Wes

I also agree it's a PITA. This is just to get rid of initial construction of my screen fingerprints/grime etc etc.

I ended up using "Invisble Glass" to clean the screen to pretty good result:
http://www.invisibleglass.com/

There are still SOME streaks, but they aret noticible with the screen in use or off, unless I get really super close on a still image and stare, while moving the "hot spot" around to illuminate them. In other words, 'good nuff.

I use a LOt of paper towel and cleaned the screen in quarters, twice. Then spot cleaned any where I detected any streaking inconsistency again.

There were a few marks on the screen , I hadn't noticed after I cleaned. I used the arm and hammer "eraser" sponges to get rid of them, then recleaned again. The eraser sponges are an abrasive, albeit a very minor one, so be careful... but I'd say any more serious marks easily come off with it.

The Invisible Glass definetly removed all oils from the screen too, the screen surface feels more matte/dry now.


PS - I can't imagine simple green doing any where near an acceptable job.. it's not evaporative.
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post #2507 of 2849 Old 02-06-2009, 06:51 PM
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Ok, I finally find a Home Depot that will order me a Wilsonart DW (4x8 ft) for $63. I think I'm going to use contact cement to glue it to a 1/2" MDF board. After seeing and feeling the MDF board, that sucker is extremely heavy. Does anyone have any idea as far as mounting this thing? Its going to be heavy. Any good suggestion will be appreciated.
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post #2508 of 2849 Old 02-09-2009, 09:18 AM
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If using contact cement, what is the best method to go about it to ensure you don't have any wrinkles?
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post #2509 of 2849 Old 02-09-2009, 02:55 PM
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I have a 4 x 8 sheet of Wilsonart designer white on order. I want to build the largest screen I can with it. My hope is that if the factory cuts are square, I will only have to make one cut. If a 4 X 8 sheet of Wilsonart laminate is in fact 4 feet by 8 feet, according to my calculations, I should only have to cut 10 1/2 inches off the 8 foot length, making it 7' 1.5". This would make a screen that is 48" by 85.5".

I read someone else's post who said they bought a 5 X 8 sheet of laminate and it was 61 inches on the short edge.

Can anyone verify the actual measurements of a (nominal) sheet of 4 X 8 wilsonart DW laminate?

Also - what about my idea to try to use 3 factory edges without cutting? Do they come square?

Also - I would like to go frameless - essentially a floating screen. What I have seen someone else do but I can't remember where I saw it - was build a frameless screen (clarification: there is a wooden frame behind the laminate - there just isn't a frame in the front of the screen like a picture frame) and then attach it to a wall painted with very high emissivity paint - something like Ralph Lauren black suede paint. Essentially avoiding the fun of building a frame and covering it with black velvet. So here is my question: How far off the wall should the screen be in order to acheived that floating screen look sufficent that any light spilling off the sides of the screen are lost in the blackness of the wall behind it? 2 inches? 3 inches? 4 inches?

Thanks for reading,
Fredster4
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post #2510 of 2849 Old 02-09-2009, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredster4 View Post

I have a 4 x 8 sheet of Wilsonart designer white on order. I want to build the largest screen I can with it. My hope is that if the factory cuts are square, I will only have to make one cut. If a 4 X 8 sheet of Wilsonart laminate is in fact 4 feet by 8 feet, according to my calculations, I should only have to cut 10 1/2 inches off the 8 foot length, making it 7' 1.5". This would make a screen that is 48" by 85.5".

I read someone else's post who said they bought a 5 X 8 sheet of laminate and it was 61 inches on the short edge.

Can anyone verify the actual measurements of a (nominal) sheet of 4 X 8 wilsonart DW laminate?

Most all sheets are "Oversized" by 1" or so. This because more often than not, they ship with some slight damage around the edges.

Quote:


Also - what about my idea to try to use 3 factory edges without cutting? Do they come square?

Quote:


Also - I would like to go frameless - essentially a floating screen. What I have seen someone else do but I can't remember where I saw it - was build a frameless screen (clarification: there is a wooden frame behind the laminate - there just isn't a frame in the front of the screen like a picture frame) and then attach it to a wall painted with very high emissivity paint - something like Ralph Lauren black suede paint. Essentially avoiding the fun of building a frame and covering it with black velvet. So here is my question: How far off the wall should the screen be in order to acheived that floating screen look sufficent that any light spilling off the sides of the screen are lost in the blackness of the wall behind it? 2 inches? 3 inches? 4 inches?

Thanks for reading,
Fredster4

Much easier is to glue the Laminate directly to the wall (if the wall is smooth enough) but do so over an applied Black Velvet veneer "surround" that can be 40" wide/tall all around the Screen. THAT can overlay your dark paint, but don't imagine any paint will give you the results Black Velvet will.
(....however, the recent "skinny" has a color called "Mouse Ears" as being a very nice alternative.)

It's not the distance from the wall that will give you what you want, but rather the lack of reflection around the screen. A disembodied Screen floats because you don't see anything around it, but it's still best if the surface is virtually flush with it's "backing". Any "raised' example is more in keeping with the intention to put Rope Lighting between the rear of the Screen's edge and the wall.

Otherwise, your making more trouble for yourself than need be.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #2511 of 2849 Old 02-09-2009, 07:00 PM
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Im thinking of buy a piece of DW and a piece of FG. Then I could glue them together with 2 hooks glued in between out of the top to hang the screen. Then I can have double sided screen that I can use for Daytime and Night time. Has anyone done this with Success?
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post #2512 of 2849 Old 02-10-2009, 09:38 AM
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Thanks MississippiMan. I guess if I glue DW directly to the wall, I save the time and effort of building a frame backing my screen, but make it more difficult to go with a different screen someday. What do you used to glue it to the wall? CAn I just use spray adhesive since it will apply a very uniform coat and doesn't have to hold like contact cement for a counter top? Also - how do you adhear black velvet to the wall without the wrinkles? Is it better to go with black velvet wal paper rather than fabric? (kinda like that black velvet paper they have in little kid's "paint by numbers on black velvet" kits.)

Have to admit - if mouse ears paint is any where near the same effect as applied velvet, then that is the way to go given the ease factor.

Thanks again,
Fredster4
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post #2513 of 2849 Old 02-10-2009, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

If using contact cement, what is the best method to go about it to ensure you don't have any wrinkles?

to clarify, whats the best way to use contact cement to glue the laminate to the wood frame?
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post #2514 of 2849 Old 02-12-2009, 08:12 PM
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Well my DW laminate sheet came in today. I quickly realized that I would have too many waves with mirror clips and don't have a vehicle that can transport the lumber required to build a frame and didn't feel like spending the cash on an aluminum one so I did something kinda crazy.

I velcroed the entire sheet to the wall. Mind you this isn't the best idea because in places where I had to remove it and put it back up there to get it straight I have holes in my wall from the industrial strength velcro...but its up there. I guess I would have to patch the holes from screws and stuff from a frame so it's just a bit more mud when I decide to take it down (will be a while). Anyways, thats my quick and crazy DIY solution. I did call a few friends and counting me had 4 people to put the screen up as it needed to be level the first time it went up.

All in all I spent $20 on 15ft of velcro and $110 on the sheet of laminate. My velvet came in today so once I buy some trim and put it around the screen (also going to velcro it to the wall) I will have spent less than $200 total for a screen roughly 125" diagonal...not too bad! The sheet I received was 61 1/8 tall so I'm using all of the heights and merely trimmed one of the sides.
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post #2515 of 2849 Old 02-13-2009, 03:47 PM
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Not bad at all vili, we DIYers do what we have to huh?
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post #2516 of 2849 Old 02-13-2009, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickmo View Post

Tools and Materials:


Applying the cloth to the wood border:


Cloth step 2:


Assemble the frame:


The complete frame:


Stapling the laminate to the frame:


Had to modify these mirror clips a little to get them to work with the frame:


The final product:

I am very interested in using this method of framing a 110" diagonal DW laminate. A couple of questions for you experts.

1) If I did this, would the frame/laminate combo be rigid enough to not bow in the middle with a 110" screen? I noticed in this example, he is using a much smaller screen.

2) Do I have to do a miter cut frame? Could I a butt joint frame with the L-brackets from behind? Would the mitered frame be stronger?

Thanks
Greg
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post #2517 of 2849 Old 02-13-2009, 04:30 PM
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Has anyone tried the "Vertical Grade" of the WilsonArt Laminate ? This is about 1.25mm thick (I think), same as the Samples WilsonArt sends , and I'm thinking this would resolve numerous issues with hanging , waves , etc. The only major drawback is that it can't be rolled and usually comes in sheets too big to pick up and must be delivered . Plus I don't think simple scoring and break will work on material that thick .

I'm trying to find someplace that can get this for me , cut it to size and deliver.

Anyone try this ?

Scott................

"Home Theatre is a Journey , not a Destination "
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post #2518 of 2849 Old 02-14-2009, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott_R_K View Post

Has anyone tried the "Vertical Grade" of the WilsonArt Laminate ? This is about 1.25mm thick (I think), same as the Samples WilsonArt sends , and I'm thinking this would resolve numerous issues with hanging , waves , etc. The only major drawback is that it can't be rolled and usually comes in sheets too big to pick up and must be delivered . Plus I don't think simple scoring and break will work on material that thick .

I'm trying to find someplace that can get this for me , cut it to size and deliver.

Anyone try this ?

Scott................

I think that the Vertical grade is thinner than the General purose grade. If you look back at the first post it talks about the defferent grades. It is made to do cabinets instead of counter tops. I ordered the genral grade and it came rolled up. But once I cut the bands keeping it rolled up, it flattened out right away. There is no way that I could get it rolled back up. It is pretty thick. I don't have any problems with waves or anything. Mine is glued to a pine frame and mounted to the wall. It has worked fine for over a year
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post #2519 of 2849 Old 02-14-2009, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Fredster4 View Post

I have a 4 x 8 sheet of Wilsonart designer white on order. I want to build the largest screen I can with it. My hope is that if the factory cuts are square, I will only have to make one cut. If a 4 X 8 sheet of Wilsonart laminate is in fact 4 feet by 8 feet, according to my calculations, I should only have to cut 10 1/2 inches off the 8 foot length, making it 7' 1.5". This would make a screen that is 48" by 85.5".

I read someone else's post who said they bought a 5 X 8 sheet of laminate and it was 61 inches on the short edge.

Can anyone verify the actual measurements of a (nominal) sheet of 4 X 8 wilsonart DW laminate?

Also - what about my idea to try to use 3 factory edges without cutting? Do they come square?

Also - I would like to go frameless - essentially a floating screen. What I have seen someone else do but I can't remember where I saw it - was build a frameless screen (clarification: there is a wooden frame behind the laminate - there just isn't a frame in the front of the screen like a picture frame) and then attach it to a wall painted with very high emissivity paint - something like Ralph Lauren black suede paint. Essentially avoiding the fun of building a frame and covering it with black velvet. So here is my question: How far off the wall should the screen be in order to acheived that floating screen look sufficent that any light spilling off the sides of the screen are lost in the blackness of the wall behind it? 2 inches? 3 inches? 4 inches?

Thanks for reading,
Fredster4

Here are some build pics from mine, hope it helps...
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post #2520 of 2849 Old 02-14-2009, 07:52 PM
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Just got mine done tonight! Luckily the wife helped alot so although time consuming, went pretty smoothly. Here are some pictures. I hoped to of had enough velvet for a masking system, but I overcut on most of my frame and trimmed alot of excess off so I only have enough velvet left for one mask. So if anyone has a 10' long piece of velvet roughly 12inches or so (at least) wide let me know, would save me from having another 4 yards from sy's.!







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