Originally Posted by FSOAPM
I'm not sure this thread is getting much love lately - but I've been reading for a little while (about 3 weeks now) and trying to soak it all in. I've been remodeling my basement, and this weekend I'm hitting the painting part of it all. I have a Sharp XV-Z2000 DLP projector, and I'm going to be projecting a 100" image in a room with as close to zero ambient light that is possible (I actually sheetrocked over two glass block windows when I framed it in). I've decided to give the one can neutral gray paint a go, so I went to Sherwin Williams today equipped with all the knowledge I've attained here - the guy was flat out amazed when I was questioning his base paint and double checking his numbers. I got the Gray Screen with the Duration base. Numbers are:
7071 Gray Screen
BAC Colorant 02 32 64 128
B1-Black - 20 1 -
T3-Deep Gold - 5 - 1
Extra White 640363925
I'm going to be taking pictures throughout the process, and hopefully I can hit the posting limit so that I can post them sometime in the next week.
Any suggestions or thoughts would be gladly welcomed and appreciated.
Thanks for everything so far guys!
Love... not something this particular thread is known to generate
Controversy yes, love... well let's just say I have never heard it regarded in that way "Straight out of the box the Z2000 projects a good image, but not as good as it is capable of. Before calibration, contrast was above average and color saturation was excellent, though biased toward green. A few calibration adjustments improved color balance and contrast, and elevated overall image quality to an impressive level. Colors appeared rich and lifelike while avoiding over-saturation, and flesh tones were realistic.
The Z2000 is among the brighter of the home theater projectors currently on the market. We measured the Z2000 at 950 ANSI lumens with all brightness-boosting features turned on. At settings ideal for theater use, the Z2000 still measured 470 ANSI lumens, which is more than enough for a darkened theater. With the combination of contrast and lumen output that you get from the Z2000, you can light up a 120" diagonal screen with no problem."
My concern is that statement "Before calibration, contrast was above average and color saturation was excellent, though biased toward green."
The nice thing about a 'V' curve is it has a built in green deficency. Neutral gray is an excellect palate, but there is no green deficency, or any color component push or deficency for that matter (for a true neutral). Seeing that this unit has a known green 'pre-calibration' push... you will want to drop your green levels. Calibration should take care of that, but if not go in and bring your green color level down while keeping your temperature setting to neutral. You should be able to calibrate to this, but I want you to be aware of this potential issue right from the start and be prepared for it.
Your projector is also a little lower on the Lumen rating than I normally recommend for an N8 shade, but it seems to have sufficient brightness with all the brightness options turned on, so you should be okay... if you go to the 470 lumen settings I think it may be a bit to dark of a gray for you. Unless you have the Sharp XV-Z20000, that is one beast of a projector!
If it is too dark, don't worry. Get yourself an empty quart paint can at Home Depot, they are around $2.00 or less. Put exactly a half a quart (16 ounces) of Gray Screen in it, and exactly a half a quart of Behr Ultra Pure White in it. ( YES YES, I know this isn't a mixing thread, but if we have a projector here with a known green push, and possibly a darker shade than will be optimal, this will save money and not waste the $40 or so spent on the Gray Screen) Anyway... this will give you a color of 227 223 228, which is a very nice Munsell N9 shade with that 5-6 point green deficency that is desired with the 'V' curve. If you want to make sure it is fully mixed, take the can back to HD and they should put it in their 'shaker' at no cost. Go home and roll it on. You will have a sheen that is half way between matte and flat, which shouldn't be a problem at all.
If you end up going that route, you can always take the remainder of the gallon of Gray Screen and paint the surrounding wall for a slightly darker gray offset... just a suggestion on that... This is a rough idea what the walls would look like and then the screen would of course be a shade lighter...
After a nice black border trim, it would be a very nice looking setup with the walls slightly darker than the screen... again just some food for thought if you run into any problems.
Keep everyone posted on your step by step progress... everyone loves a photo journal.