Grays- Simple one can paints, and one very neutral... - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 602 Old 03-06-2007, 07:40 PM
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UPDATE: In progress

We decided to make the screen smaller to 76" 16:9 from the pre-planned 92" 16:9 as it fit better in the living room, would produce higher Foot Lamberts at the screen and is better in line with the visual acuity of the projector and seating environment.

Substrate: Do-Able Products white board from HD cut to 70" x 41" allowing a two inch mounting surface behind the frame. We decided to prime & paint the back side instead of the white side as this would allow a dual screen with simple slide out approach from the rear of the frame.

Frame: Solid 3/4" MDF board with the center cut out 66" x 37" with an external dimension of 72" x 43". This created a super strong frame without any seems on the frame whatsoever and allowed us to attach mirror hangers to hold the screen from the rear.

Frame Coating: Denver Fabrics 100% Rayon 6.5oz Velvet in the blackest color I've ever seen, much nicer than the Triple Velvet as we went to the store and saw both.

Primer: Killz2 with three coats the back/non-white side of the Do-Able Products.

Paint: One coat of True Value Winter Mountain #1982, waiting for the first coat to dry another 2 1/2 hours then applying a 2nd coat, then repeat if necessary.

Here's some crude photos as my flash wasn't working for the first two shots, the primed (Killz2) surface and the in progress painting. I finally got my flash working and took a final shot of the board with one full coat of True Value Winter Mountain.

Primed Surface:



Painting In Progress:



One Coat of TV Winter Mountain:



I will upload further photos of the finished frame and screen then more photos of the screen in action.

Thank you Bill (Wbasset) for all your help, you've been very very very helpful! Thank you for making an uphill project a walk in the park, I owe you a Guinness or two!
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post #452 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 12:31 AM
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I was unhappy with my Silverscreen painted drywall screen, especially when watching hockey (blue ice), and wanted to change. Could not find a Sherwin williams nearby so grayscreen was out, so i wanted to try the Winter Mountain. No such luck nearest TV is 40miles away.

My wife and I were picking up bathroom reno materials at RONA, and I managed to slip in a quart of CIL-Touch of Grey. I don't see colors so well, but she said it looked at little green, which from reading this thread was likely a good thing.

I painted the wall that night, and am really happy with the results. I reset my Z4 to default settings and enjoy the picture much better. The ice looks natural when watching hockey, and is not blinding as when using a white screen.

I have no idea if this paint is a good neutral grey one can paint solution for some but it worked out well for me. If anyone is interested the sticker says: BLK 0P5+ / YOX 0P0+ / OXR 0P0+. Whatever that means . I used what they called a velvet flat finish, it rolled very easily/evenly with 2mm nap roller.
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post #453 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prokoph View Post

Substrate: Do-Able Products white board from HD cut to 70" x 41" allowing a two inch mounting surface behind the frame. We decided to prime & paint the back side instead of the white side as this would allow a dual screen with simple slide out approach from the rear of the frame.


One Coat of TV Winter Mountain:

This Guy painted Do-able? !!!!

I'm tellin' !!!!


Whats next? Someone painting on WilsonArt laminate?

......and the Earth moved under our feet, and the Stars tumbled from the heavens.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #454 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 05:40 AM
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Quote:


Whats next? Someone painting on WilsonArt laminate?

It's been done a few times already


Jim White
St. Petersburg, FL
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post #455 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 05:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prokoph View Post

UPDATE:
Substrate: Do-Able Products white board from HD cut to 70" x 41" allowing a two inch mounting surface behind the frame. We decided to prime & paint the back side instead of the white side as this would allow a dual screen with simple slide out approach from the rear of the frame.

He painted the backside of it for a dual screen.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #456 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

It looks like a mix of Lamp Black, Yellow Oxide, and Red Oxide. Are there any other numbers on the label? There should also be a code that looks similar to "50GY 64/029". With this code you can cross reference to any type of paint that falls under the ICI Paints international brands of paint. For our friends south of the 49 parallel, we should point out that CIL is the Canadian version of Glidden. Any color that is available for CIL is also available for Glidden or any of the brands from ICI Paints.

Is the "Touch Of Gray" a lighter gray than the Silverscreen?

I guess if you found the white wall too bright then you probably would not be interested in the gain boost a top coat of matte polyurethane would provide?

Isn't it great when you try something and it makes the image look better,

It sure is great, I wish I had done it a while ago. I still had the paint tray from the Silverscreen batch and it does appear darker than 'Touch of Grey', and I really understand now what people mean by the "blue push" when I compare the two. Noting again I do not see color all that well, so it might be in my head.

The reference code is 30BB 72/003. Would you guys call this a neutral grey?
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post #457 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 09:47 AM
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Quote:


Substrate: Do-Able Products white board from HD cut to 70" x 41" allowing a two inch mounting surface behind the frame. We decided to prime & paint the back side instead of the white side as this would allow a dual screen with simple slide out approach from the rear of the frame.

I am very intested in seeing your mounting of a reversible screen. I have been thinking about this for some time and planned to start experimenting with gray screens this spring and builing a flippable this summer.

Would LOVE to see some pictures of the mounting system when you get the time/have it in place.

GL
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post #458 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 08:56 PM
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Ooops, i screwed that one up, here they are again...










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post #459 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 08:56 PM
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post #460 of 602 Old 03-07-2007, 08:56 PM
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post #461 of 602 Old 03-08-2007, 02:45 AM
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Hey Dude,

You need to edit out the unnecessary posts. All that repetition clutters up a thread terribly.

Nice work though!

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #462 of 602 Old 03-08-2007, 11:58 AM
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Am I right in assuming that these clips are how you expect to flip the screen from white to gray? If so, how many of these clips do you have on the screen, and are they on the front or back?

I'm guessing they are on the back of the frame and are holding the screen in place by pushing it against the frame?

If that's the case, I'd be concerned about scratching the DO-ABLE, though from the picture I'd surmise that it'd be hidden by the frame anyway.


Regards,

GL
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post #463 of 602 Old 03-13-2007, 07:28 PM
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Finally had some free time to resize these pics and post them. The only postprocessing done on the pics is to resize. EXIF info is still in the pics.
The file names should be descriptive enough. They're images using the default Cinema1, Cinema2 Dark settings on the Panny AX100 projector. The Glidden photos are from Cinema2 mode. The DVE pictures are the ones calibrated w/ DVD Essentials.

What's interesting is with GTI8, the Video mode is noticably blue. The best mode is Cinema1 IMHO. I didn't realize this until I finished the series of pictures. I'd bet Panasonic created each of the modes for specific "typical" screens (i.e., some w/ too little blue, some w/ too much brightness, some w/ too little brightness, etc.)

Another interesting thing is whenever I calibrate w/ DVD Essentials, whatever I calibrate seems too red. This was true of a Panasonic 27" CRT TV and the projector. I have to crank down the color value as a result, but the end result is still pleasing to the eye. I'm surprised because I thought the calibration process would give better results. On the AX100, the end result was slighly more color saturated than Cinema1 mode.
LL
LL
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post #464 of 602 Old 03-13-2007, 07:31 PM
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I can't believe you can only attach 3 images per msg :-P
Here are pictures of the various paint chips in their thread on top of a piece of paper painted w/ GTI8. As you can see, nothing looks like GTI8. Glidden's Universal Gray looks the closest to me.
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post #465 of 602 Old 03-13-2007, 07:33 PM
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DVD Essentials calibrated pics
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post #466 of 602 Old 03-13-2007, 07:34 PM
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default Cinema1/Cinema2 modes
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post #467 of 602 Old 03-13-2007, 09:52 PM - Thread Starter
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The Gripper did look good, but the GTI N8 is pretty amazing with the whites and that is a slightly darker gray than Gray Screen (Still rated a Munsell N8 though).

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #468 of 602 Old 03-14-2007, 06:19 AM
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The Gripper has roughly a satin sheen, but my wall is not perfectly flat (horsehair plaster wall instead of drywall) so the sheen made everything visible. The GTI N8 is flat so I can't see imperfections unless I stand within 2-3 feet and look at it at an angle w/ side lighting now. Glidden Gripper has always rolled fine for me. The GTI N8 didn't smooth out as well as I thought it should have (it wasn't smooth on the piece of paper I put it on).

One important thing to note is that Gripper is fine at night, but it's not during the day. It's fine for a light controlled room, but if you have any ambient lighting, the picture isn't nearly as good as the GTI N8 (which I still have to use Dynamic mode on w/ the AX100 during the day).

GTI N8 looks slightly darker than Gray Screen. What's weird is the photo I took shows a slight green tinge in Gray Screen. When I look at it in daylight, it's relatively close to GTI N8...slightly closer than Universal Gray, which puzzles me because in the photo, Universal Gray looks closer to GTI N8. I guess it just shows that perfect grays always look gray in all lighting conditions.

BTW, if you go w/ GTI N8, I'd just use the AX100's Cinema1 theatre room mode and not bother w/ trying to calibrate it. I thought the calibration was a waste of time :-P
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post #469 of 602 Old 03-14-2007, 11:25 AM
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I didn't want to mix the GTI N8 w/ anything because it's supposedly a tested perfect gray (why futz w/ it if it's the D65K gray we're after? and if I add stuff to it, it wouldn't be a true baseline test ;-). That said, it could have probably been watered down slightly because it was quite thick.

BTW, anyone know what the procedure is to send a sample to prof55 so he can stick it under a spectrocolorimeter? I'm going to take the painted piece of paper when I get the chance and try to get a color match for glidden evermore at a few Home Depots (in case their scanners are miscalibrated) to see what a matching formula is when I get some more time, but I'd like confirmation that this is what we're after first...
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post #470 of 602 Old 03-21-2007, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I just spoke to the lab guys at GTI. They spectro'd GTI N8 at L*ab 79.61 -.93 .48 which comes out to 197 198 197. They used an X-Rite Spectrophotometer set to D65 Illumunant, 2 Degree observer.

This isn't as neutral as I thought ( I thought it would be dead on) but it is very very neutral and close to D65. These are not my readings or any database numbers, they are from the color lab at GTI. More than just the neutrality of this paint is the extreme flatness of it. This is a D65 measurement too so keep that in mind. There is no glare off this surface from any angle.

I would only recommend this for projectors with 1500 lumens and up. It is slightly darker than Gray Screen or Winter Mountain.

It may be argued that the flatness of this paint is a problem, but it is an excellent base to start with. As is it can produce a very accurate color image with a projector that has the right lumen output (as mentioned, 1500 or up). Whites will remain white even at this shade. Black levels will be coal black, and as mentioned colors will be as accurate as whatever your projector can put out.

Some considerations: If your projector has a confirmed green push, such as the JVC ILA/DLA projectors, then I would recommend a 'V' curve to the screen color to compensate for the projector. Most projectors do not seem to have this much of a green push and can calibrate to a neutral screen... in fact that is what HT magazines and reviewers all shoot for... a D65 calibration for the projector. The closer the screen is to D65, the better the projector calibration can be. ILA/DLA projectors should set for neutral temperature setting and drop the green color level as until the picture looks normal.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #471 of 602 Old 04-06-2007, 11:29 AM
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I'm not sure this thread is getting much love lately - but I've been reading for a little while (about 3 weeks now) and trying to soak it all in. I've been remodeling my basement, and this weekend I'm hitting the painting part of it all. I have a Sharp XV-Z2000 DLP projector, and I'm going to be projecting a 100" image in a room with as close to zero ambient light that is possible (I actually sheetrocked over two glass block windows when I framed it in). I've decided to give the one can neutral gray paint a go, so I went to Sherwin Williams today equipped with all the knowledge I've attained here - the guy was flat out amazed when I was questioning his base paint and double checking his numbers. I got the Gray Screen with the Duration base. Numbers are:

7071 Gray Screen
BAC Colorant 02 32 64 128
B1-Black - 20 1 -
T3-Deep Gold - 5 - 1
One Gallon
Extra White 640363925

I'm going to be taking pictures throughout the process, and hopefully I can hit the posting limit so that I can post them sometime in the next week.

Any suggestions or thoughts would be gladly welcomed and appreciated.

Thanks for everything so far guys!
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post #472 of 602 Old 04-06-2007, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSOAPM View Post

I'm not sure this thread is getting much love lately - but I've been reading for a little while (about 3 weeks now) and trying to soak it all in. I've been remodeling my basement, and this weekend I'm hitting the painting part of it all. I have a Sharp XV-Z2000 DLP projector, and I'm going to be projecting a 100" image in a room with as close to zero ambient light that is possible (I actually sheetrocked over two glass block windows when I framed it in). I've decided to give the one can neutral gray paint a go, so I went to Sherwin Williams today equipped with all the knowledge I've attained here - the guy was flat out amazed when I was questioning his base paint and double checking his numbers. I got the Gray Screen with the Duration base. Numbers are:

7071 Gray Screen
BAC Colorant 02 32 64 128
B1-Black - 20 1 -
T3-Deep Gold - 5 - 1
One Gallon
Extra White 640363925

I'm going to be taking pictures throughout the process, and hopefully I can hit the posting limit so that I can post them sometime in the next week.

Any suggestions or thoughts would be gladly welcomed and appreciated.

Thanks for everything so far guys!

Love... not something this particular thread is known to generate Controversy yes, love... well let's just say I have never heard it regarded in that way

"Straight out of the box the Z2000 projects a good image, but not as good as it is capable of. Before calibration, contrast was above average and color saturation was excellent, though biased toward green. A few calibration adjustments improved color balance and contrast, and elevated overall image quality to an impressive level. Colors appeared rich and lifelike while avoiding over-saturation, and flesh tones were realistic.

The Z2000 is among the brighter of the home theater projectors currently on the market. We measured the Z2000 at 950 ANSI lumens with all brightness-boosting features turned on. At settings ideal for theater use, the Z2000 still measured 470 ANSI lumens, which is more than enough for a darkened theater. With the combination of contrast and lumen output that you get from the Z2000, you can light up a 120" diagonal screen with no problem."


My concern is that statement "Before calibration, contrast was above average and color saturation was excellent, though biased toward green."

The nice thing about a 'V' curve is it has a built in green deficency. Neutral gray is an excellect palate, but there is no green deficency, or any color component push or deficency for that matter (for a true neutral). Seeing that this unit has a known green 'pre-calibration' push... you will want to drop your green levels. Calibration should take care of that, but if not go in and bring your green color level down while keeping your temperature setting to neutral. You should be able to calibrate to this, but I want you to be aware of this potential issue right from the start and be prepared for it.

Your projector is also a little lower on the Lumen rating than I normally recommend for an N8 shade, but it seems to have sufficient brightness with all the brightness options turned on, so you should be okay... if you go to the 470 lumen settings I think it may be a bit to dark of a gray for you. Unless you have the Sharp XV-Z20000, that is one beast of a projector!

If it is too dark, don't worry. Get yourself an empty quart paint can at Home Depot, they are around $2.00 or less. Put exactly a half a quart (16 ounces) of Gray Screen in it, and exactly a half a quart of Behr Ultra Pure White in it. ( YES YES, I know this isn't a mixing thread, but if we have a projector here with a known green push, and possibly a darker shade than will be optimal, this will save money and not waste the $40 or so spent on the Gray Screen) Anyway... this will give you a color of 227 223 228, which is a very nice Munsell N9 shade with that 5-6 point green deficency that is desired with the 'V' curve. If you want to make sure it is fully mixed, take the can back to HD and they should put it in their 'shaker' at no cost. Go home and roll it on. You will have a sheen that is half way between matte and flat, which shouldn't be a problem at all.

If you end up going that route, you can always take the remainder of the gallon of Gray Screen and paint the surrounding wall for a slightly darker gray offset... just a suggestion on that... This is a rough idea what the walls would look like and then the screen would of course be a shade lighter...
After a nice black border trim, it would be a very nice looking setup with the walls slightly darker than the screen... again just some food for thought if you run into any problems.

Keep everyone posted on your step by step progress... everyone loves a photo journal.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #473 of 602 Old 04-06-2007, 11:20 PM
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wbasset - thanks for all that info. I know the lumen level seems low on this projector, but here is my thought process for sticking with the Gray Screen (for now at least). Before purchasing the Sharp XV-Z2000 I was able to see it in action in a Best Buy Magnolia Room. The Room had the lights on half with the projector ceiling mounted about 12 feet back from the screen. When I first saw it I was amazed at how great the contrast was - the blacks were pure black and the whites were white - and the lights were half on in the room! I checked the projector and the High Brightness mode wasn't on. Then I had the lights brought on all the way and I took a look at the screen. It was a gray screen! And it wasn't a very light gray - it was just plain gray. I was pretty amazed. From what I've been hearing, this projector holds it own pretty good on brightness as long as it's under 13 feet from screen and the screen is 100" or under. So, I'm placing the projector at about 12 feet and doing the 100" screen. My hope is that because I have practically zero ambient light, the brightness level of the Sharp will manage easily against the gray. I hate when whites wash out - blacks are easier to get....but I really want my whites to be natural and smooth.

One other reason I feel comfortable with this paint is that earlier in this thread a person with an Infocus IN76 posted that they used the gray screen and were ecstatic about the results. The Sharp and the IN76 are pretty similar in a few ways - one being that the at screen lumen rating is practicaly the same. Basically I'm doing the, "if it worked for them, please let it work for me!".

So, I guess we shall see! I just primed the wall and taped the screen off - I'll be painting it tomorrow, so hopefully I can get some pics up tomorrow night.

But, if it's too dark - I really appreciate your advice wbasset....I'll probably go that route. Again, I really appreciate the advice. You ARE doing amazing work in this forum. Thanks to all the reading I've done here I made that paint guy at Sherwin Williams look like he didn't know anything.
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post #474 of 602 Old 04-11-2007, 06:52 AM
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First, Many thanks to all of the experienced people willing to share their knowledge.

Unfortunately, for me it has just become overwhelming, and I really could use some help in determining a good starting point.

My office has outgrown my basement and I will be moving out soon. In eager anticipation of reclaiming my "man room", I purchased a Sharp XR-10X projector. 2000 lumens, 2000:1 contrast ratio. Set up the projector and ran for about 2 hours projecting against my calf#*%# brown wall. Wasn't interested in quality, but just wanted to test the projector since I knew I would be putting into storage for a while.

Now the time is approaching for a permanent installation, so I started researching screens. Probably should have just stopped when I found that blackout cloth is available, because after all my research (not even really knowing what I am reading most of the time), I am back to thinking that this may be my best first option.

I have complete lighting control and will probably watch movies in near darkness, but also want to be able to watch football games with at least enough ambient light to see the other people in the room.

I posted on this thread because I was initially convinced that some degree of gray would be the best choice for watching with some ambient light, now I'm having second thoughts.

I can either paint the wall, or build a permanent screen. Screen size will be approx 120" diagonal, and I am hoping to get a decent screen in the $100.00 range.

Where to start???????? Wall or screen?, white or gray?, simple off the shelf or one of the complicated mixes?

I know I will probably end up repainting several times, but if anyone can suggest a good starting point given my parameters, I would greatl appreciate it!!!!!

Thanks
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post #475 of 602 Old 04-11-2007, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodypa View Post

First, Many thanks to all of the experienced people willing to share their knowledge.

Unfortunately, for me it has just become overwhelming, and I really could use some help in determining a good starting point.

My office has outgrown my basement and I will be moving out soon. In eager anticipation of reclaiming my "man room", I purchased a Sharp XR-10X projector. 2000 lumens, 2000:1 contrast ratio. Set up the projector and ran for about 2 hours projecting against my calf#*%# brown wall. Wasn't interested in quality, but just wanted to test the projector since I knew I would be putting into storage for a while.

Now the time is approaching for a permanent installation, so I started researching screens. Probably should have just stopped when I found that blackout cloth is available, because after all my research (not even really knowing what I am reading most of the time), I am back to thinking that this may be my best first option.

I have complete lighting control and will probably watch movies in near darkness, but also want to be able to watch football games with at least enough ambient light to see the other people in the room.

I posted on this thread because I was initially convinced that some degree of gray would be the best choice for watching with some ambient light, now I'm having second thoughts.

I can either paint the wall, or build a permanent screen. Screen size will be approx 120" diagonal, and I am hoping to get a decent screen in the $100.00 range.

Where to start???????? Wall or screen?, white or gray?, simple off the shelf or one of the complicated mixes?

I know I will probably end up repainting several times, but if anyone can suggest a good starting point given my parameters, I would greatl appreciate it!!!!!

Thanks

Welcome to the site goodypa.

This thread is primarily concerned with locating paints that are standard product offerings of the major paint makers that fall into the realm of good surfaces to project on. And the main thrust has been paints deemed to be balanced neutrals.

The reason I'm posting to your inquire is I have the exact same projector you listed shooting to a 120 screen and have documented a fairly good plan to handle the needs of that projector and setup.

Below in my signature are several links to threads detailing both the paint and my choice of screen for the 10X. Others have used the same setup with great results.

Read thru those threads and feel free to comment and ask questions in those threads relevant to the 10X 120 combo.

There is also a long running 10X thread that hasn't been posted to in a month or so that's crying out for a hit. Check it out also.


Bud

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post #476 of 602 Old 04-11-2007, 07:30 AM
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Bud,

Thanks for the response. I actually printed out your mix a few weeks ago with the intention of trying it first, until I confused myself even further.

Thanks for the info on the 10X thread, I will check it out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodypa View Post

Bud,

Thanks for the response. I actually printed out your mix a few weeks ago with the intention of trying it first, until I confused myself even further.

Thanks for the info on the 10X thread, I will check it out.

Having owned the 10X now for a year and a half you can defiantly do a lot better than the BOC screen. The 10X is very bright and has the real world lumens to light up a gray screen. I'm assuming when you said 120 you were talking 4:3 screen or 72x96. That's 48 sq ft of screen and to be able to produce a very bright vivid image that size on a screen with less than a 1.0 gain was very impressive to me. One problem you will encounter when looking at all the screen paints on this thread and the others is that most the testimonials to screen performance will be from projectors of less lumens.

My thoughts are if you have the brightness to spare then use them to your advantage. A white screen of this size will severely clip your 2000:1 CR on the dark end without any ambient light. If you want to add some in for sports or regular TV watching the darker screen solves that problem and the lumens allow it to happen. Then when you go lights out be ready for something akin to a plasma experience.

Just out of curiosity how did it look on the Calf **** brown wall?


Bud

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Bud,

Well.........it looked sort of.........BROWN! I was watching my beloved (although pitiful) Philadelphia Phillies wearing brown with red pinstripes.

Actually I was thinking of a 16:9 screen, but I guess that is really getting off the topic of this thread. Another decision for me to confuse myself with.

If I understand your recommendation, you are saying to try your modified "Silver Leaf". That was my first inclination anyway so I guess I'll give it a try. I'm probably 3-4 weeks away from starting, but I'll let you know how it works out.

Thanks again for your help.
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post #479 of 602 Old 04-13-2007, 09:06 PM
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Just an update on my 'happenings' with the xv-z2000 and the 100" screen. I have to apologize that I don't have any pictures up yet - I've had a crazy week and haven't been able to progress much. It's taking more time than I thought...but it's because I'm remodeling my whole basement. I'm at the point of trim now, and actually just finished cutting the frame for my screen (1"x4" pine, primed, and painted the darkest Behr flat black I could find) The screen is all taped off on the wall, and I have the gallon of Gray Screen awaiting usage sitting next to the 7" 3/16 roller and 4" foam roller. Now all I need is about 10 more hours in each day!

I'll have pictures up as soon as I can - I'm excited to get this thing going. I mounted the projector on the ceiling the other day and adjusted the zoom to fit the 100" screen. It looked amazing on the primer - so I'm pumped to see how the gray screen fairs.
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post #480 of 602 Old 04-14-2007, 10:59 AM
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OPTOMA HD 70
Mounted at 108"
Lense is 20 feet from wall(screen)
Light is mostly dark
screen sizes
16.:9 is 162"
native is 95"
Current paint on wall is oleary antique white with ceramics.

Cant use fixed screen due to change in screen sizes 4:3 to 16:9 to native

Too lazy to drop projector from vaulted ceiling closer to wall

What is the best paint for my application
thanks

John the bulbman
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