Originally Posted by izayn
Question for you on the formula
To get the different screens (Lite, Super light, high gain...etc), are you saying in the color components change ONLY the amount of the Red, Green and Blue only or is it everything that is in the "(color components)"needs to be changed?
It is the amount of the Color Component "Mix" that varies, with the darkness of the hue of Gray becoming less as the amount of the Color Component Mix that is added to the Base/Viscosity Mixes is reduced.
The Base Mix contains the bulk of the Reflective elements, so as the degree of the shade of Gray lessens, more and more brightness is achieved. Only in the "High Gain"
SF Mix does the amount of White Pearlescent / Silver Metallic change along with the lessened amount of Color Component.
Also where is the spray instructions?
Are they the same as regular S-I-L-V-E-R, where you spray KILZ2 then the multiple coats of SF.
Thank in advance
You still spray/or roll Kilz-2 onto a raw but smooth surface, more to present a reflective base than to actually "Prime", because the SF paint itself is of a constitution that likens it to self-priming paints.
Even that step can be wholly avoided if the substrate being sprayed already possesses a bright white surface. Those with screens under 100" diagonal have the option of painting SF directly onto "Thrifty White Hardboard", a 3/16" x 4' x 8' sheet material made of Brown Hardboard (...like Peg Board...) that has a smooth, glossy White Vinyl coating.
When one does prime, the goal is to create a white surface, extremely smooth and slippery. Then using a HVLP Gun (...hopefully the Wagner Control Spray...) a first "Duster Coat" of SF is applied, much the same as is done with S-I-L-V-E-R. This creates a "Tack Base"....a semi-coarse surface that subsequent "slightly heavier" coatings can adhere to, eliminating (...or at least reducing...) the chance of any particular coat from sliding or running.
In the Hoary Old Age of MMud, longst before the rising of the Wagner CS, and the adulteration / dilution of such with water, most spray painted screen surfaces were usually quite coarse, much like a Medium Grit Sandpaper. The very nature of the texture, and how it "splattered" onto the surface, resulted in a pretty heavy coating that would sag or run if applied to heavily onto a smooth surface. One would presume that diluting such paints before spraying would create even more such worries, but nay, Verily and Forsooth...instead the finer "Dusted" mist, once applied and dried, has just the right amount of "Tack' to provide a foothold for the subsequent heavier coat.
None of us who are to be considered wise can achieve such wisdom but by the old adage of "Live & Learn", and by learning, prosper therein. So take the time to learn, (ie:PRACTICE) and with such wisdom comes the ability to plainly see the benefits of such labors.
There have been a few threads containing videos that showed the rate of spray/progress that is advisable, and those instructions still hold true.
- 12' to 14' distance from Spray Tip to Surface
- Start with 50% of Spray pattern overlapping the top edge of the screen surface
- Moving from one side to the other, while maintaining the correct distance, one proceeds at 1.5' per second in a smooth, even pace.
- Each continuing Row overlaps the preceding Row by 60%
- For best results, allow each coat to dry completely to the touch before applying subsequent coat.
If you need further specific help, just post up. T'would be good to see some additional details of your project in print in any case, for as is so oft stated, "Provide details and Ask Questions first prior to embarking on The Quest
lest thy stub thy Toe and stumble on the Hard Rock of Disappointment and Failure.