Silver Fire mix - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 1426 Old 08-06-2010, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by billybobg View Post

That very noble of you I think the prize would be the Nobel Prize and perhaps it should be in the Arts.

The "Master of this Reality" concurs.





messin' wit'cha.

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post #812 of 1426 Old 08-11-2010, 03:41 PM
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Funny thing happened today. I got my pj mounted and threw a movie in to check out the screen, everything looks good. I had pulled the tape off and have a couple of inches of the white primer still showing that i have to paint. It seemed that the areas in the white appeared to be brighter, even with color on it, even with the lights on. I know that brighter doesn`t mean better, but am i missing something, should i got to a white screen?
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post #813 of 1426 Old 08-11-2010, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mal01 View Post

Funny thing happened today. I got my pj mounted and threw a movie in to check out the screen, everything looks good. I had pulled the tape off and have a couple of inches of the white primer still showing that i have to paint. It seemed that the areas in the white appeared to be brighter, even with color on it, even with the lights on. I know that brighter doesn`t mean better, but am i missing something, should i got to a white screen?

Only that when a white surface is compared to a Gray, some aspects of the image will appear brighter. But a bright scene that contains Black content that actually looks Gray isn't desirable, and certainly will have no additional ambient light performance.

I can (...and have...) post a zillion images showing White vs Gray, but most don't care to see such anymore owning to the knowledge that there is too obviously a disadvantage toward one or the other based on the conditions that prevail. But in the end, a Gray that shows brilliant Colors, deep Blacks, and exceptional whites...in any lighting conditions ...well, it just has to be "all good" and "Mo bedder" than a 1 trick Pony White surface that ONLY looks it's best in the dark, and even then only with a PJ whose Contrast is so good...it's the real reason the image looks as it does.

And even then...in the dark...if the surrounding walls / ceiling reflects light back to a white screen...it all goes south.

Be happy. Be content. Your where you want to be.

But don't try to edge in those boarders. Simply cover them with your Trim.

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post #814 of 1426 Old 08-11-2010, 05:39 PM
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All valid points you make. I guess never having a pj before and not having any point of reference, you start thinking " what if " alot. I`ll trim it up and enjoy this puppy.
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post #815 of 1426 Old 08-12-2010, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mal01 View Post

All valid points you make. I guess never having a pj before and not having any point of reference, you start thinking " what if " alot. I`ll trim it up and enjoy this puppy.

Sawright. Perfectly understandable. Your simply want it to be everything your hoping it will / should be.

Now...I see your online. Go watch the Morning news.

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post #816 of 1426 Old 08-12-2010, 02:00 PM
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I am starting to notice that there are some darker areas, almost like dull areas that are noticeable in brighter, white sceens. When i get right up to the wall and look off at those areas at an angle, i can see the dull area, but when i get in front of the area it looks like i have good coverage, looks hice a even. Will this go away? If not what action should i take? It is really not too bad, but it`s there and i can see it.
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post #817 of 1426 Old 08-15-2010, 12:56 PM
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MM,
Any comments on my above post?
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post #818 of 1426 Old 08-15-2010, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mal01 View Post

MM,
Any comments on my above post?

Sorry...I've been celebrating my B-Day.

What I believe you are seeing could be explained in thusly.

The paint is curing, and it's curing a bit unevenly because of the differences in density where the fresh paint, and the underlying older paint meet will affect the rate of cure as opposed to points were you re-applied Primer over the fresher Drywall Mud that you used to cover those blemishes. The latter areas will not maintain a sheen due to retained moisture for nearly as long as a surface that doesn't allow a percentage of the moisture in the paint to penetrate into the wall. Evaporation is actually enhanced if part to the moisture is absorbed into a porous substrate. That is why Primers are usually called "Sealers" as well.

At this conjecture you should wait long enough to see if the areas start to blend. And they should if a tactile observation reveals no difference in surface texture. It will simply take the areas where you had the 1st coatings completely applied longer to cure because more moisture is trapped withing the Poly-based paint because it must rely on only evaporation...not that AND absorbtion to rid itself of moisture.

When all is said and done, the end results should be a Screen surface that looks indeed like a Flat, less reflective surface that has embedded reflective particles within it.

Usually...and unless one starts out with a very undesirable Wall, there is not this much ado when painting directly onto sheet rock. But when you start patching areas on top of primed/painted surfaces, blending in the repaired areas and sealing them effectively enough so that they will not absorb moisture more quickly is tricky business when the paint that is going to be used to cover is a ultra thin and wet Flat pastel...and SF when cured out definitely looks like a shade of Pastel Gray.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #819 of 1426 Old 08-16-2010, 09:59 AM
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Well, that must have been one heck of a celebration

The entire wall feels very even. Hopefully it will cure out that way.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Sorry...I've been celebrating my B-Day.

What I believe you are seeing could be explained in thusly.

The paint is curing, and it's curing a bit unevenly because of the differences in density where the fresh paint, and the underlying older paint meet will affect the rate of cure as opposed to points were you re-applied Primer over the fresher Drywall Mud that you used to cover those blemishes. The latter areas will not maintain a sheen due to retained moisture for nearly as long as a surface that doesn't allow a percentage of the moisture in the paint to penetrate into the wall. Evaporation is actually enhanced if part to the moisture is absorbed into a porous substrate. That is why Primers are usually called "Sealers" as well.

At this conjecture you should wait long enough to see if the areas start to blend. And they should if a tactile observation reveals no difference in surface texture. It will simply take the areas where you had the 1st coatings completely applied longer to cure because more moisture is trapped withing the Poly-based paint because it must rely on only evaporation...not that AND absorbtion to rid itself of moisture.

When all is said and done, the end results should be a Screen surface that looks indeed like a Flat, less reflective surface that has embedded reflective particles within it.

Usually...and unless one starts out with a very undesirable Wall, there is not this much ado when painting directly onto sheet rock. But when you start patching areas on top of primed/painted surfaces, blending in the repaired areas and sealing them effectively enough so that they will not absorb moisture more quickly is tricky business when the paint that is going to be used to cover is a ultra thin and wet Flat pastel...and SF when cured out definitely looks like a shade of Pastel Gray.

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post #820 of 1426 Old 08-17-2010, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mal01 View Post

Well, that must have been one heck of a celebration

At least two days lead-up time is required to adequately plan for a sufficiently excessive Bacchanal endeavor. Then there is the "time needed for recovery" issue.

During all that elapsed time, paint continues to dry out and be cured. It might take as much as 3-4 weeks minimum.

As for myself, I should be so lucky.......I've been trying to do so for at least 20 years.

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post #821 of 1426 Old 08-17-2010, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Sorry...I've been celebrating my B-Day.

Happy Birthday MM!!!!
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post #822 of 1426 Old 08-19-2010, 03:15 AM
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MM,
Some of the area`s that i am talking about are not where i did the drywall work. Again, when i get right next to the screen, on the side and look at an angle there are several of these duller spots that can be seen in bright scenes. The coverage seems to be good and there is no noticeable difference in feel when i run my hand over these areas. I`d hate to think that putting more paint up is the only way to "fix" it. The screen is done, the border is up and equipment is in the room.



Quote:
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At least two days lead-up time is required to adequately plan for a sufficiently excessive Bacchanal endeavor. Then there is the "time needed for recovery" issue.

During all that elapsed time, paint continues to dry out and be cured. It might take as much as 3-4 weeks minimum.

As for myself, I should be so lucky.......I've been trying to do so for at least 20 years.

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post #823 of 1426 Old 09-08-2010, 07:46 AM
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I've finally decided to try one of the Sf mixes.... but I would like your advice on which.

What I have is a proj. with 14000:1 contrast and 1200 ANSI (Mitsu. HC5500) and I'm currently just project on a wall painted with very light neutral grey (N2000).
Walls and ceiling are white, but I have black shades on the two walls.
So, any suggestions?
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post #824 of 1426 Old 09-08-2010, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnicke View Post

I've finally decided to try one of the Sf mixes.... but I would like your advice on which.

What I have is a proj. with 14000:1 contrast and 1200 ANSI (Mitsu. HC5500) and I'm currently just project on a wall painted with very light neutral grey (N2000).
Walls and ceiling are white, but I have black shades on the two walls.
So, any suggestions?

SF 3.0 (3 ounces Colorant)

Mount the Pj as far down from the white Ceiling as you can, and ditto the Top of the Screen. You want to avoid the reflection of the projected light from off the Ceiling directly above the Screen more than anywhere else

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #825 of 1426 Old 09-08-2010, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

SF 3.0 (3 ounces Colorant)

Mount the Pj as far down from the white Ceiling as you can, and ditto the Top of the Screen. You want to avoid the reflection of the projected light from off the Ceiling directly above the Screen more than anywhere else

Thanks! Am I correct that it's the mix with the lowest "gain" (most Colorant)? (Of the original mixes atleast)
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post #826 of 1426 Old 09-08-2010, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnicke View Post

Thanks! Am I correct that it's the mix with the lowest "gain" (most Colorant)? (Of the original mixes at least)

No....that would be a Mix with 4-5-6 ounces of Colorant.

The 3.0 designation is a very generic shade of Gray....good with multiple varieties of PJ that have at least 1000 "bright" Lumens. While those darker mixes might not have been listed beyond the assumption that they were easily bumped into, it was more about the fact that only the Panny AX-100-200u's had enough Lumen Horsepower to drive into darker Grays of those shades.

A 2.0 mix would be fine for a PJ that has a "Native" Contrast of 35K+

The Mits does not, and 3.0 will help improve the perceived CR considerably.

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post #827 of 1426 Old 09-08-2010, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

No....that would be a Mix with 4-5-6 ounces of Colorant.

The 3.0 designation is a very generic shade of Gray....good with multiple varieties of PJ that have at least 1000 "bright" Lumens. While those darker mixes might not have been listed beyond the assumption that they were easily bumped into, it was more about the fact that only the Panny AX-100-200u's had enough Lumen Horsepower to drive into darker Grays of those shades.

A 2.0 mix would be fine for a PJ that has a "Native" Contrast of 35K+

The Mits does not, and 3.0 will help improve the perceived CR considerably.

Aha!
Well, time to spend some time searching for the ingredients then
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post #828 of 1426 Old 09-08-2010, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnicke View Post

Aha!
Well, time to spend some time searching for the ingredients then

Look here for the hard stuff to find. They are all in stock.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/li...s-matt-colors/

20 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Naphthol Crimson - (PR170)
8 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Phthalocyanine Green - (PG7)
5 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Phthalocyanine Blue
5 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue (PY 83)

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #829 of 1426 Old 09-11-2010, 08:32 PM
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i was hoping someone could help me with purchasing a sprayer.
ideally id like a sprayer i could also use for bigger things, doors, furniture, parts of the house etc.

from reviews it sounds like the dd might not do that too well. if theres a model someone can reccomend, i dont want to spend too much more than the $90 or so the dd costs, maybe up to the $120 range or so.
thanks in advance.
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post #830 of 1426 Old 09-12-2010, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paz9x View Post

i was hoping someone could help me with purchasing a sprayer.
ideally id like a sprayer i could also use for bigger things, doors, furniture, parts of the house etc.

from reviews it sounds like the dd might not do that too well. if theres a model someone can reccomend, i dont want to spend too much more than the $90 or so the dd costs, maybe up to the $120 range or so.
thanks in advance.

Hi!

The first model listed below is the Control Spray "Plus", essentially a "Double Duty" on steroids.

http://www.gleempaint.com/wagner-con...pray-plus.html

The next one is a very similar unit, one that has interchangeable "metal" Tips and Needles.

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

I personally use the Wagner "Plus" Model, often with one of the older Spray Heads from the original Control Spray (...for a finer mist...) but I'm going to get one of the one's listed just above as well because it just might be worth it...especially at just $60.00.

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post #831 of 1426 Old 09-22-2010, 04:24 AM
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Finally got hold on most of the components needed BUT I'm still missing the following:

Minwax Polycrylic
Behr Interior UPW Flat

Any suggestion on where you can buy these in Europe OR any suggestion on what to use as a replacement?
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post #832 of 1426 Old 09-22-2010, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnicke View Post

Finally got hold on most of the components needed BUT I'm still missing the following:

Minwax Polycrylic
Behr Interior UPW Flat

Any suggestion on where you can buy these in Europe OR any suggestion on what to use as a replacement?

Ronsons (...or similar...) Water based Clear Satin Floor varnish (...it's Polyurethane based material, not a true varnish...)

Dulux Ultimate White (...extremely thick stuff...needs considerable thinning with water....)

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #833 of 1426 Old 09-22-2010, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Ronsons (...or similar...) Water based Clear Satin Floor varnish (...it's Polyurethane based material, not a true varnish...)

Dulux Ultimate White (...extremely thick stuff...needs considerable thinning with water....)

So just about any waterbased clear varnish should work (low gloss)?
Also, just about any waterbased white color (opaque and low gloss?) should work?
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post #834 of 1426 Old 09-22-2010, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnicke View Post

So just about any waterbased clear varnish should work (low gloss)?
Also, just about any waterbased white color (opaque and low gloss?) should work?

No...I didn't say that.
Ronsons is widely available but in lue of that look for a clear water based Satin....NOT low Gloss.
The Dulux "Absolute" White (...correction..)0 is optimal. Otherwise look for a "Flat" Interior Water based Enamel.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #835 of 1426 Old 09-22-2010, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

No...I didn't say that.
Ronsons is widely available but in lue of that look for a clear water based Satin....NOT low Gloss.
The Dulux "Absolute" White (...correction..)0 is optimal. Otherwise look for a "Flat" Interior Water based Enamel.

Aha I see! Thanks for all help .
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post #836 of 1426 Old 10-12-2010, 02:03 AM
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can they be painted on an electric screen?
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post #837 of 1426 Old 10-12-2010, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lin000 View Post

can they be painted on an electric screen?

Yes...I've done so several times. You do have to mask off the black surround, and spraying is really the only safe and effective option.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #838 of 1426 Old 10-12-2010, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Yes...I've done so several times. You do have to mask off the black surround, and spraying is really the only safe and effective option.

Do you have some tips regarding what to look for or what the procedures are for painting an electric screen.
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post #839 of 1426 Old 10-13-2010, 06:14 AM
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[quote=pb_maxxx;8924648]Materials available at Michaels Arts & Crafts or most any Artist Supply or Hobby Stores.

Last Updated: July 21st, 2009 Edition:


"SILVER FIRE"
* use 3 oz. of the 'color components' and add/mix it to the 'base & viscosity components'

(base components)
30 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601
15 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Silver Metallic #02603
10 oz. Behr Interior UPW Flat #1850 (or Exterior #4050)
6 oz. Folk Art - Champagne Metallic

(viscosity components)
24 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish @Michaels & Home Depot
16 oz. Distilled or Filtered water

(color components)
50 ml water to rinse the color pigments from the measuring utensils.
20 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Naphthol Crimson - (PR170)
8 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Phthalocyanine Green - (PG7)
5 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Phthalocyanine Blue
5 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue (PY 83)


Hi guys, I am a little confused as to mixing the ingredients... for the color components am I mixing the suggested ML amounts... or am I putting 3oz of each color ?

1 ML = .003 oz

3oz = about 29 MLs

So i am a little confused. as it says put 3 oz of color components... then the listed color components says the measurements in ML's

can someone help me please!

also another question..

I have an optoma 7100 has 1000 lumens - Is this the right painted screen choice for me ? I have it about 16 ft away and the image is going to be roughly 140-150" diagonal. Right now when I shut off the lights it looks great on the flat painted off-white sheetrock im pretty impressed So i can only imagine painting a screen for it. It suffers with ambient light.

So should I go with silver fire ? or a rs-maxxmudd mix ?

and what is silver fire 3.0 ? is that the ingredients above ?
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post #840 of 1426 Old 10-13-2010, 07:18 AM
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Mix the amount of the colorant formula per the instructions, then add the mixed amount of colorant specified to the base and viscosity. Silver Fire 3.0 = 3 oz of the colorant formula. Silver Fire 2.0 = 2 oz of the colorant formula. It's not my area to tell you how much colorant. The experts will tell you that.
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