Silver Fire mix - Page 31 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #901 of 1426 Old 11-14-2010, 12:03 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
Hard to evaluate while there is still a wet gloss to the surface. Color-wise, I don't see any tendency toward a Blue Shift, nor a
"Browning effect caused by adding too much "Yellow"

I'll say this, it looks wet enough to be approaching the borderline between "OK" and "Running", so make your last 2 coats something 1/2 way between a Duster and a normal coat. Overlap each preceding row at least 70% but DO NOT go back over any area of the Screen. Wait instead until the surface is tack free and has lost all gloss before you attempt any "Feathering in" over weaker areas.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #902 of 1426 Old 11-14-2010, 04:00 PM
Member
 
colt54qg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Ok I'm done with the screen but the colors look off. In this picture is the painted screen with just a piece of non painted sintra running through the word kinect. What do y'all think?
LL
colt54qg is offline  
post #903 of 1426 Old 11-14-2010, 07:51 PM
Member
 
colt54qg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Ok I solved my dilemma. I added 2 oz of the behr white paint to finally get rid of the blue tint. Here's my living room all done now. Thank you guys so much!
LL
LL
LL
colt54qg is offline  
post #904 of 1426 Old 11-14-2010, 08:18 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
One thing your not familiar with is that it's not very effective trying to judge such a painted coating that contains Polyurethane when it's just hours old. And comparisons between a White board and a Gray solution will also be skewered toward the White surface as far as "bright whitenenss" is concerned. However the White board will lose out terrible as far as contrast, Black levels, and ambient light watchability.

SF is dedicated to providing such. RS-MaxxMudd likewise, but to a lessor extent.

But both applications need more than a 2-3 hours to dry, more like 2 days, and curing completely can take 2-3 weeks under normal humidity. As the SF cures out more, the difference will be less.

Also, the camera is highlighting the Blue spectrum because the image is very bright. You need Screen Shot lessons!

Step back then Zoom in the image with the camera until only a small amount of Black border or unlit room surrounds the screen. Take the shot at both 200 & 6-800 ISO. The attenuation the Zoom provides will equalize out the highly reflected image's brightness. This will make colors and white appear more "true" and you'll see the difference in your Camera's preview....it'll be that noticeable. You'll see the Camera taking shots that represent what you see.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
post #905 of 1426 Old 11-16-2010, 10:41 AM
Newbie
 
blasterx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey everybody,

I've read through this thread and I've come up with a few questions I hope you can help answer.

I'm building a 150" screen to be used in a fair bit of ambient light with a BenQ W6000 projector.

As far as I've been able to deduce from this long running thread the Silver Fire 2.0 (which as far as I can see corresponds to "Silver Fire - L (Lite)") would be the best choice.
- Is this true?

Throughout the thread the term "Duster coat" is used but never really explained thoroughly.
- Is it using the SF paint to create a thin layer before the actual painting? Somewhere it's explained as:
"And If you can, then I assure you that when shooting the wet SF from 12" to 14" and moving 2 ft per second, you WILL lay down a Duster Coat".

I'm ordering the ingredients from Europe, so I need the correct amount of paint in the first go (= not too little). I've never tried to spraypaint before.
- How much do I need to order for a 150" screen?

What's the best substrate (isn't that the material you're painting on?) for the Silver Fire mix?
Somewhere I've read about a mirror? Erh, is that like a real hugmongous mirror that you paint on??

By the way, thanks for all the great info on this forum... it's really been an eye opener = now I don't have to spend a fortune on a screen when I can make one equally good or better myself. Also, It'll be sweet knowing it's a homebrew!

Well, hope you have time to help another newbie
blasterx is offline  
post #906 of 1426 Old 11-18-2010, 10:26 PM
Newbie
 
sjovanov's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Regarding the base components of the mix is it ok if those are acrylic?
sjovanov is offline  
post #907 of 1426 Old 11-19-2010, 04:59 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjovanov View Post

Regarding the base components of the mix is it ok if those are acrylic?


You should use the specified components. If you cannot, all should be water based, "Flat" paints.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
post #908 of 1426 Old 11-19-2010, 05:09 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by blasterx View Post

Hey everybody,

I've read through this thread and I've come up with a few questions I hope you can help answer.

I'm building a 150" screen to be used in a fair bit of ambient light with a BenQ W6000 projector.

As far as I've been able to deduce from this long running thread the Silver Fire 2.0 (which as far as I can see corresponds to "Silver Fire - L (Lite)") would be the best choice.
- Is this true?

Yep. And Yep.

Quote:


Throughout the thread the term "Duster coat" is used but never really explained thoroughly.
- Is it using the SF paint to create a thin layer before the actual painting? Somewhere it's explained as:
"And If you can, then I assure you that when shooting the wet SF from 12" to 14" and moving 2 ft per second, you WILL lay down a Duster Coat".

I think it has been explained about 100 times.

A "Duster" is accomplished by rapidly moving across the surface so as to lay down a sparse coating that will serve as a "Tack Base" for the heavier coats, so as to help prevent runs. It is applied as quoted above.

Quote:


I'm ordering the ingredients from Europe, so I need the correct amount of paint in the first go (= not too little). I've never tried to spraypaint before.
- How much do I need to order for a 150" screen?

If you make up the SF mix as specified you'll have enough for your Screen

Quote:


What's the best substrate (isn't that the material you're painting on?) for the Silver Fire mix?

Any very smooth, hard surface can do it well.

Quote:


Somewhere I've read about a mirror? Erh, is that like a real hugmongous mirror that you paint on??

Yes, a 1/8" (3mm) Acrylic Plastic Mirror. That is the basis behind what is called "Light Fusion". I myself reserve it's use these days to applications that need the darker Silver Fire formulas (4.0+)

Quote:


By the way, thanks for all the great info on this forum... it's really been an eye opener = now I don't have to spend a fortune on a screen when I can make one equally good or better myself. Also, It'll be sweet knowing it's a homebrew!

Well, hope you have time to help another newbie

And I hope I did.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
post #909 of 1426 Old 11-27-2010, 12:27 PM
Member
 
vullcan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 198
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Did the first few duster coats of a silver fire 2.0 screen.

How does this look in terms of color accuracy?

Colorant:

Final Paint:

2 Dusters in:






I assume the streaking is going to go away after a few more dusters? And is just due to my inexperience in overlapping 60% properly with the gun?
vullcan is offline  
post #910 of 1426 Old 11-27-2010, 07:55 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by vullcan View Post

Did the first few duster coats of a silver fire 2.0 screen.

How does this look in terms of color accuracy?

Looks pretty good in the "Can". The shot of the colorant is harder to judge, but if it was a dark, flat Gray, you got there ok!

Quote:


I assume the streaking is going to go away after a few more dusters? And is just due to my inexperience in overlapping 60% properly with the gun?

No. Dusters are not covering coats, so they obviously will show intersecting/ overlapping lines with the first sparse coatings

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
post #911 of 1426 Old 12-02-2010, 05:54 PM
Newbie
 
otoole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have, over the past year, applied 2 different Silver Fire Coatings to a wall to determine which worked best. Since I had misplaced some of my notes I went back to the original post to compare that to the paint containers and found a discrepancy I hope someone can clear up.

The Behr UPW in the original post is listed as Interior Flat #1850, however that product # on the Behr website lists it as Interior Flat Enamel. Behr #1050 is Interior Flat. I also called the paint department at my local HomeDepot and they confirmed this.

I suspect for this application using the Enamel #1850 rather than the Flat #1050 will make a difference, probably a fairly big one.

For my original tests I used the Flat #1050. I find it a bit dull.

Any thoughts from the experienced would be appreciated before I do this for real.
otoole is offline  
post #912 of 1426 Old 12-02-2010, 07:43 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fitbrit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,081
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 28
I believe that the 1850 is an interior flat grey enamel mentioned in the beginners' sticky at the top of this forum page.

Quote:
Originally Posted by otoole View Post

I have, over the past year, applied 2 different Silver Fire Coatings to a wall to determine which worked best. Since I had misplaced some of my notes I went back to the original post to compare that to the paint containers and found a discrepancy I hope someone can clear up.

The Behr UPW in the original post is listed as Interior Flat #1850, however that product # on the Behr website lists it as Interior Flat Enamel. Behr #1050 is Interior Flat. I also called the paint department at my local HomeDepot and they confirmed this.

I suspect for this application using the Enamel #1850 rather than the Flat #1050 will make a difference, probably a fairly big one.

For my original tests I used the Flat #1050. I find it a bit dull.

Any thoughts from the experienced would be appreciated before I do this for real.

fitbrit is online now  
post #913 of 1426 Old 12-02-2010, 07:59 PM
Newbie
 
otoole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fitbrit View Post

I believe that the 1850 is an interior flat grey enamel mentioned in the beginners' sticky at the top of this forum page.

This is directly from the Behr website: Ultra Pure White-Int. Flat Enamel 1850
otoole is offline  
post #914 of 1426 Old 12-02-2010, 09:25 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fitbrit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,081
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Apologies - my info came from the sticky thread. I'm sure the Behr site has the real deal.
fitbrit is online now  
post #915 of 1426 Old 12-12-2010, 07:58 PM
Say No to Auto EQ
 
beastaudio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western NC
Posts: 8,139
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 928 Post(s)
Liked: 999
Ok so went to the michaels in my hometown and they didnt have the blue or the yellow I was needing for the mix, i went ahead and grabbed the medium hue yellow and the ultramarine blue??? are these ok substitutes or do i need to go find the others listed? The tints look really close especially on the yellow? Anyone done this before?

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

"If you done it, it ain't bragging." ~ Walt Whitman

 

AE TD12x SEOS12 Build

Beast's DIY Master Measurement Thread

DIY Emminence Coaxial Surround Thread

beastaudio is offline  
post #916 of 1426 Old 12-12-2010, 08:36 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Ok so went to the michaels in my hometown and they didnt have the blue or the yellow I was needing for the mix, i went ahead and grabbed the medium hue yellow and the ultramarine blue??? are these ok substitutes or do i need to go find the others listed? The tints look really close especially on the yellow? Anyone done this before?

Yeah. They are dead now.

NO substitutions!!! Sorry. Your results will vary wildly. The colors advised have been selected to obtain a specific balance. The biggest difference is that the Primaries MUST BE THE "MATT" variety...as well as the specific Tint. That all I have to say about that.

Except I have those colors if Dick Blick or Someone else Online does not. I read on the Threads just 2-3 days ago where someone got them all online so they are there. Last resort....there is always me.

Don't fudge now.....or don't whine later.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
post #917 of 1426 Old 12-12-2010, 09:05 PM
Say No to Auto EQ
 
beastaudio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western NC
Posts: 8,139
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 928 Post(s)
Liked: 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Yeah. They are dead now.

NO substitutions!!! Sorry. Your results will vary wildly. The colors advised have been selected to obtain a specific balance. The biggest difference is that the Primaries MUST BE THE "MATT" variety...as well as the specific Tint. That all I have to say about that.

Except I have those colors if Dick Blick or Someone else Online does not. I read on the Threads just 2-3 days ago where someone got them all online so they are there. Last resort....there is always me.

Don't fudge now.....or don't whine later.

Ok so I got the liquitex basics, not the Matt Basics anyways so I guess its all going back. dangit. I was out and about without my list of stuff and thought I was close, guess not. It will all go back tomorrow. I didnt see any of the MATT basics anywhere so i might need to order online or check other stores. Ive only looked at michaels so far. does wally world or anywhere like that carry the stuff?

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

"If you done it, it ain't bragging." ~ Walt Whitman

 

AE TD12x SEOS12 Build

Beast's DIY Master Measurement Thread

DIY Emminence Coaxial Surround Thread

beastaudio is offline  
post #918 of 1426 Old 12-13-2010, 09:37 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

. I didnt see any of the MATT basics anywhere so i might need to order online or check other stores. Ive only looked at michaels so far. does wally world or anywhere like that carry the stuff?

No. A rare few Michaels have stock, but 95% of the time it has to be ordered online.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
post #919 of 1426 Old 12-13-2010, 04:06 PM
Newbie
 
otoole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

No. A rare few Michaels have stock, but 95% of the time it has to be ordered online.

I have found them at Dick Blicks here in the Mn Twin Cities area. Here is a link to their web page if there is no local store near you. http://www.dickblick.com/products/li...s-matt-colors/
otoole is offline  
post #920 of 1426 Old 12-13-2010, 05:53 PM
Say No to Auto EQ
 
beastaudio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western NC
Posts: 8,139
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 928 Post(s)
Liked: 999
Got mine there! i ordered some of the pearl and silver metallic at another online store but I believe Im not allowed to post that here so oh well google it!!!

now that all the correct paint is either in my posession or on the way im getting very anxious!!!

one more question: with the wagner double duty and me using the 2.0 mix, about how much water has everyone been having success with? I know viscosity has been quite an issue with this particular mix. Mixing in the double duty I know creates a whole 'nother bag of issues.

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

"If you done it, it ain't bragging." ~ Walt Whitman

 

AE TD12x SEOS12 Build

Beast's DIY Master Measurement Thread

DIY Emminence Coaxial Surround Thread

beastaudio is offline  
post #921 of 1426 Old 12-20-2010, 12:40 PM
Advanced Member
 
Kirnak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 822
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
I'm back!

I'm going to be starting Version 2 of my screen after the holidays. I'm practicing with some old drywall in my garage now. My current screen is the Siver Fire 2.0, but I believe It ended up with a VERY SLIGHT orange peel texture. So slight I need my glasses to see it. However, it seems that it results in a slight "graininess" to the picture in certain scenes.

Here's my question: Is it possible for somebody, (Maybe Mississippi Man or Pb_maxxx?) to post a macro picture of what the final screen texture should look like? With a small coin in the picture for scale? If such a picture is already on here, I apologize, I did search. I would REALLY appreciate it! It seems like all my practice attempts are pretty similar to my current screen; it would be helpful to have a picture so I could know what my final goal should look like.

Thanks!!!
Kirnak is offline  
post #922 of 1426 Old 01-02-2011, 11:16 AM
Member
 
jpagger1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've been researching this mix for a while now and have done lots of searching on the forums to better familiarize myself with this mix. I have a question regarding the differences between SF 2.0 and SF 3.0. From what I understand 3.0 helps improve ambient light fighting over 2.0 and increases contrast in lower contrast projectors. My setup is an Epson 8350 in a basement which has good light control (just a couple of window wells which can be covered if needed) though I do like to have some lights in the basement on when casually using the projector for football/video games. Currently I'm just projecting on to my existing wall and am looking to upgrade to SF. However, I'm having trouble deciding between 2.0 and 3.0. Anyone have any advice for this decision?

Also, I'm looking at an image around 120" which I am considering just painting on the existing wall. How much paint does the standard recipe for this mix make? If I want to take a spare piece of drywall I have and prime it with some Kilz2 and then test the SF mix on part of it, say a 2'x2' area, will I have enough paint to still do my screen? I plan to spray the final product as I realize its very difficult to roll, though I'd probably try to roll the test sample for ease. Thanks for any help.
jpagger1 is offline  
post #923 of 1426 Old 01-02-2011, 11:07 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 15,264
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpagger1 View Post

I've been researching this mix for a while now and have done lots of searching on the forums to better familiarize myself with this mix. I have a question regarding the differences between SF 2.0 and SF 3.0. From what I understand 3.0 helps improve ambient light fighting over 2.0 and increases contrast in lower contrast projectors. My setup is an Epson 8350 in a basement which has good light control (just a couple of window wells which can be covered if needed) though I do like to have some lights in the basement on when casually using the projector for football/video games. Currently I'm just projecting on to my existing wall and am looking to upgrade to SF. However, I'm having trouble deciding between 2.0 and 3.0. Anyone have any advice for this decision?

Also, I'm looking at an image around 120" which I am considering just painting on the existing wall. How much paint does the standard recipe for this mix make? If I want to take a spare piece of drywall I have and prime it with some Kilz2 and then test the SF mix on part of it, say a 2'x2' area, will I have enough paint to still do my screen? I plan to spray the final product as I realize its very difficult to roll, though I'd probably try to roll the test sample for ease. Thanks for any help.

Hi.

Take advantage of the 8350's lumens and go with SF3.0

Make the Mix as specified and you can test on a 4' x 8' sheet of $13.00 Thrifty White hardboard, or a $5.50 sheet of 4' x 8' drywall. You'll have enough to get along with for both the test and the 120"er.

But crap....do not roll the SF....test "AND" practice using the Spray method. Why have to "learn" at a critical time? And be sure to Dilute the Kilz and spray it for basic Practice as well.

As you approach the actual wall prep /spraying I'll be available (...and a few others hopefully if I'm a bit tardy....) so if you at all undecided or uncertain, don't rush it....haul back, call and ask / post / PM for advice and/or clarification first.

MMan.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
post #924 of 1426 Old 01-03-2011, 10:38 PM
Member
 
CGRemakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Are these the correct paints for the Liquitex? I can't tell if they are matt or not. They probably are not, but this just happens to be a source I have locally, so I wouldn't have to pay shipping (though I'd have to pay tax). I'll probably end up getting them online, but figured I'd check first:

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...-color-577825/
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...-color-247916/
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...-color-248047/

The only one I don't see is blue, so even if it is correct, I'll probably need to find another source for at least that color.
CGRemakes is offline  
post #925 of 1426 Old 01-04-2011, 07:49 AM
Say No to Auto EQ
 
beastaudio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western NC
Posts: 8,139
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 928 Post(s)
Liked: 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by CGRemakes View Post

Are these the correct paints for the Liquitex? I can't tell if they are matt or not. They probably are not, but this just happens to be a source I have locally, so I wouldn't have to pay shipping (though I'd have to pay tax). I'll probably end up getting them online, but figured I'd check first:

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...-color-577825/
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...-color-247916/
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...-color-248047/

The only one I don't see is blue, so even if it is correct, I'll probably need to find another source for at least that color.

NOPE, you need the MATT basics. looks almost identical to these. I made the same mistake not so long ago.

Check DickBlick.com they should have it.

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

"If you done it, it ain't bragging." ~ Walt Whitman

 

AE TD12x SEOS12 Build

Beast's DIY Master Measurement Thread

DIY Emminence Coaxial Surround Thread

beastaudio is offline  
post #926 of 1426 Old 01-04-2011, 05:37 PM
Member
 
CGRemakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

NOPE, you need the MATT basics. looks almost identical to these. I made the same mistake not so long ago.

Check DickBlick.com they should have it.

That's what I thought. Yeah, the dickblick prices are really very reasonable. It would just be a hair cheaper to get it locally, but guess I can't complain. Thanks!
CGRemakes is offline  
post #927 of 1426 Old 01-05-2011, 12:05 AM
Member
 
Latenter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just finished mixing up a batch of silver fire, and wanted opinions before I spray it tomorrow night. How's this look?



The colors are more or less accurate, though the picture has a big of a red tint (that's white/slight gray butcher paper it's all sitting on.) The near black on the colorant wiped off of the mixing cup, it's a little lighter than that, and looked pretty evenly gray diluted and flowing in the sink when I washed the cups.

I mixed it exactly according to the recipe on the first post for 3.0, or at least as closely as I could. It's pretty hard to be accurate when an ounce or two of paint get stuck to the sides of the measuring cup. It also took a lot longer than I was expecting. Between a lot of caution and cleaning, it took nearly three hours to get everything combined and mixed, but that's also because I barely know what I'm doing.

Also - I'm using a Wagner CS DD - any special instructions? More water, different speeds, anything? Hopefully I'll figure it all out, and I was able to practice spraying the base white layer. I'll be adding my own screen thread with progress.
Latenter is offline  
post #928 of 1426 Old 01-05-2011, 07:22 AM
Say No to Auto EQ
 
beastaudio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western NC
Posts: 8,139
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 928 Post(s)
Liked: 999
Color looks good. I was spraying the 2.0 mix with the wagner DD and ended up watering it down WAYY too much. most importantly, use your paint strainer to test the viscosity, NOT THE VISCOSITY TOOL. if your mix will flow through the strainer into the bullet cup quick enough that you can continue to pour the mix at a moderate rate, then you should be ok. If you use the test of the viscosity tool, you may end up doubling the water and still not getting close. I ended up having to rethicken my mix significantly. good thing I kept some of the "originally called for mix" off to the side. Follow these instructions and you should be ok though. If you are a bit thick, continue to add that distilled water at 2-4 oz. at a time until you get it right.

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

"If you done it, it ain't bragging." ~ Walt Whitman

 

AE TD12x SEOS12 Build

Beast's DIY Master Measurement Thread

DIY Emminence Coaxial Surround Thread

beastaudio is offline  
post #929 of 1426 Old 01-05-2011, 08:21 AM
Member
 
Latenter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks Beast. Any idea about how much total water beyond the recipe for the CS DD? I'd like to get close on the first try, maybe adding just a little more to avoid pouring back and forth and making a mess, but obviously the end result is more important.
Latenter is offline  
post #930 of 1426 Old 01-05-2011, 10:39 PM
Newbie
 
dolemite00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've been reading all of these threads in the process of painting my screen (went with retro mm). Given the hassle in getting the matt basics for SF, would it be possible to get home depot to match the shade? I used to take paint chips in there, and they could match them with a computer. I haven't done it in a long time, and it may not be precise enough for this application. I assume there's a reason why matt basics need to be used over a reproduction like that. I'm just interested in understanding what it is from the folks with far more knowledge than I have.

Thanks.
dolemite00 is offline  
Reply DIY Screen Section

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off