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post #991 of 1426 Old 06-17-2011, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post
@pterpm;

sintra can be used by itself but it is shy on black levels and has a noticable warm spot in the center... especially with today's higher lumen pjs.

yes, sintra can be painted easily and it accepts the paint better than other plastics because it has a very slight pebble texture to the fingertips.

sintra can easily be attach to drywall with drywall screws into the studs... just don't racket down the screws or you may create a bow in the screen...obviously you want the screen to be uniformly flat.
thank you very much for the tip, i found a lot of helpful here , this is a great website
thanks again for all of you guys here
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post #992 of 1426 Old 06-25-2011, 07:13 PM
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Hi, I'm planning to apply the SF on my current retractable screen, do I need to apply a base paint first before I'm going to apply the SF mix?
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post #993 of 1426 Old 07-10-2011, 01:57 PM
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What would be a good base coat to apply under SF, for a surface that is multicolor or not white?

Regards,
Dan
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post #994 of 1426 Old 07-10-2011, 03:39 PM
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I would do satin white
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post #995 of 1426 Old 07-10-2011, 04:49 PM
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Whats the best way to clean my silver fire screen? Its been about 6 months since I sprayed it.

A light dusting? A slightly damp rag?

I am just curious as I recently wiped a wet cloth on a random wall in my house and saw some dust on it (not surprising). Could a fine layer of dust be on my beautiful screen and thus hiding some of the paint behind it?
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post #996 of 1426 Old 07-10-2011, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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unless you really think your sf screen is dirty... then i'd leave it alone.

if you should feel a need to clean your screen then you must clean the entire surface. a few drop of mild dish washing detergent to a gallon of water. using a soft cotton face cloth...evenly wipe down the whole screen...twice. then twice with just water. use cold water.
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post #997 of 1426 Old 07-10-2011, 07:23 PM
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Wow PB....,

I'd make those suggestions only if the screen was "dirty-dirty"

Otherwise, a "Dry Cleaning" with a soft brush will easily remove dust or lint/hair. Use light strokes.

Even with the SF paint being tight, and well cured by now, I'd consider giving it a "Bath" only under worst case circumstances.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #998 of 1426 Old 07-10-2011, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd consider giving it a "Bath" only under worst case circumstances.

well actually... that is what i meant... i just didn't say it as matter of fact as you.
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post #999 of 1426 Old 07-11-2011, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

unless you really think your sf screen is dirty... then i'd leave it alone.

if you should feel a need to clean your screen then you must clean the entire surface. a few drop of mild dish washing detergent to a gallon of water. using a soft cotton face cloth...evenly wipe down the whole screen...twice. then twice with just water. use cold water.


I used armorall MATT finsih on mine. I think it looks better then when I started.

I sprayed it onto a sponge mop, gently up and down.

My 2 cents, it worked for me. Choice is yours.
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post #1000 of 1426 Old 07-12-2011, 02:49 PM
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I'm considering buying the Epson 8350 because it is less than $1300 and has lens shift that allows me to have a larger screen. I'd like 135" if it makes sense. Using the projector people calculator, 135" would need 18' throw and 1.3 gain to product 14 fl. Is 14 enough? How does silver fire fit into the conversation? I was going to buy screen material and build a fixed screen. Any advice is appreciated.
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post #1001 of 1426 Old 07-12-2011, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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@AtlDave;

...i dont think ur understanding the calculator fully... as 18' is in the middle of it's possible throw range for 135". you can actually mount it as close as 13'3".

personally i'd mount it around 13'10" - 14'. this will give you approx 22fL with a 1.3gain screen... which is perfect for a SF V2.1 2.5 screen.
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post #1002 of 1426 Old 07-12-2011, 04:31 PM
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Awesome! Thank God I asked that question. The SF thing may be to much for me to bite off but I do have a neighbor who owns a paint company. I'm sure I can borrow a sprayer. Thanks again.
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post #1003 of 1426 Old 07-12-2011, 11:54 PM - Thread Starter
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no problem. do youself a favor... keep it simple...

rs-maxxmudd ll v2.1 may just be the ticket for you. 4 simple ingredients and water, mixed thoroughly. spray or rolled.

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post #1004 of 1426 Old 07-20-2011, 08:19 AM
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I'm having my sintra cut tomorrow. I want my screen dimensions to be 116"x65". Do I need the sintra to be cut to 120"x69" to accomodate the trim? Also, what size screws are used to attach the 6mm sintra to the wall? Thanks again. I'm going to spray it by the way.
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post #1005 of 1426 Old 07-25-2011, 09:29 AM
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ok, getting ready to purchase all of my items for the Silver Fire paint. I already purchased the thrifty white board from HD and it's cut 48x85". I have an HD20 setup approx 12-13 feet away, room is dark blue with white drop ceiling. Basement home theatre with very limited ambient light from the upstairs door, nearly all dark... Purchased 3 yards of black velour to wrap the trim in.

Thanks in advance, you guys are guru's at this and really appear to help us noobies...

Questions:
1. with the newest version, are you using Liquitex Basics and not Matte finish (like the older formula)? FYI Basics are, 4oz = $5 at my Michaels and $3.35 online. (almost always have a 20% Michaels coupon though)... after you figure shipping then Michael's is better...
2. Which level of gold is best for my situation? I plan to spray with air gun
3. Should I just stick with the rs-maxxmudd ll v2.1 and keep it simple? Will there be a $30 difference (buying the SF color components)
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post #1006 of 1426 Old 07-28-2011, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

Materials available at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Dick Blicks, Home Depot, Menards, or most any Artist Supply or Hobby Stores.

*latest update - 6/7/2011


SILVER FIRE V2.1

(Reflective Base Components)
24 oz. Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl
18 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
8 oz. Liquitex Basics Titanium White (Behr Interior UPW Flat #1850 can be substituted)
1.0 oz to 3.0 oz. Liquitex Basics Gold* - (dependent on type of SF V2 screen selected... in 1/2oz increments)
(SF v2.1 1.0 uses 1.0oz of Liquitex Basics Gold)
(SF v2.1 2.0 uses 1.5oz of Liquitex Basics Gold)
(SF v2.1 3.0 uses 2.0oz of Liquitex Basics Gold)
(SF v2.1 4.0 uses 2.5oz of Liquitex Basics Gold)
(SF v2.1 5.0 uses 3.0oz of Liquitex Basics Gold)
(etc...)


(Viscosity Components)
24 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish
20 - 30 oz. Distilled or Filtered water**

(Color Components)
60ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
30ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
15ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
10ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
5ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

---

*the 'base' & 'viscosity' components are to mixed separately from the 'colorant' components.

**Graco starts with 20oz. of water mininum. Wagner DD - 24oz minimum. Wagner CS - 30oz minimum.


just a silly question please, i kind of confused with the formula above,
so, i just mix everything together and spay it on the foam board like sintra after i primed with super white flat first ?
please, help
thank you
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post #1007 of 1426 Old 07-30-2011, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pterpm View Post

just a silly question please, i kind of confused with the formula above,
so, i just mix everything together and spay it on the foam board like sintra after i primed with super white flat first ?
please, help
thank you

That's essentially correct, with the following being the best sequence.

I personally have found that mixing up the Viscosity mix first, then dumping the base components in while stirring with the mixing tools assures that it all comes together effectively.

The Colorant is always mixed separately do one can easily tell it's been done up correctly. Also, you seldom use all the Colorant...just 2-3 ounces, so it must be mixed separately and then measured out in the amount needed to effect the shade of Gray desired.

Adding the Colorant last, while the mixer is slowly running, is the last step.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #1008 of 1426 Old 07-30-2011, 06:20 PM
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Loving this SF V2 Awesome! cannot wait to do mine
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post #1009 of 1426 Old 07-30-2011, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXRobd View Post

Loving this SF V2 Awesome! cannot wait to do mine

We'll be looking for your Post soon then.......

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1010 of 1426 Old 07-31-2011, 11:12 AM
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I am all set to spray my screen with the Silver Fire V2.1 HG 1.0, but am not absolutely certain it will be gray enough. If I find it necessary to have a darker version, my guess is that spraying v2.1 HG 2.0 on top of the 1.0 will end up with a screen somewhere between V2.1 2.0 and V2.1 3.0. Does that sound right?
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post #1011 of 1426 Old 07-31-2011, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otoole View Post

I am all set to spray my screen with the Silver Fire V2.1 HG 1.0, but am not absolutely certain it will be gray enough. If I find it necessary to have a darker version, my guess is that spraying v2.1 HG 2.0 on top of the 1.0 will end up with a screen somewhere between V2.1 2.0 and V2.1 3.0. Does that sound right?


No, because to get a evenly hued coating it must be applied thick enough to cover. Also, since the closest under laying surface to the applied 2.0 is not "White", there will be some additional loss of gain due to a lessor degree of light that is absorbed into the top layer of 2.0 being able to be effectively bounced back and into the surface layer. Nope...it's gonna be absorbed a bit deeper.

In truth, the shade of Gray you wind up with might not be too far from 2.0, but it will wind up having less reflectivity.
It would be far more advisable to simply mix 2 ounces of Colorant and start right out of the gate with SF v2.1 HG 2.0 over the selected White Board or White Primed surface. That particular shade (2.0) is still a very light Silvery Gray, with a gain factor above 1.1 minimally.

I suggest you post up some particulars surrounding your Room's colors & lighting consideration, your PJ model...it's placement (throw)...and you screen's material make-up and size.

Do that, and I'll provide definitive advice that you can take to breast...or run screaming the other direction from.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #1012 of 1426 Old 08-01-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

No, because to get a evenly hued coating it must be applied thick enough to cover. Also, since the closest under laying surface to the applied 2.0 is not "White", there will be some additional loss of gain due to a lessor degree of light that is absorbed into the top layer of 2.0 being able to be effectively bounced back and into the surface layer. Nope...it's gonna be absorbed a bit deeper.

In truth, the shade of Gray you wind up with might not be too far from 2.0, but it will wind up having less reflectivity.
It would be far more advisable to simply mix 2 ounces of Colorant and start right out of the gate with SF v2.1 HG 2.0 over the selected White Board or White Primed surface. That particular shade (2.0) is still a very light Silvery Gray, with a gain factor above 1.1 minimally.

I suggest you post up some particulars surrounding your Room's colors & lighting consideration, your PJ model...it's placement (throw)...and you screen's material make-up and size.

Do that, and I'll provide definitive advice that you can take to breast...or run screaming the other direction from.

Thanks for the response. I decided to go directly to the 2.0 after I had mixed the 1.0 and realized just how light it was even before I read this post. Appreciate the explanation for doing so, since there was something in the back of my "mind" (I think I still have one) questioning my original decision.

I have applied the original Silver Fire formula twice before and it seems that this version is thicker. How's my "mind" doing on this theory? I used the non-house paint version.
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post #1013 of 1426 Old 08-01-2011, 10:33 AM
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is this have to be Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl or can i just pick a acrylic color metallic white pearl?. Because i can't find it in local dealer like lowe's or home depot they not sell this paint
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post #1014 of 1426 Old 08-01-2011, 04:03 PM
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I bought my Rustoleum from Amazon.com

Still seeking for guidance for this question... with the HD20 and a pretty dark basement do I go for Silver Fire or the rs-maxxmudd ll v2.1?



ok, getting ready to purchase all of my items for the Silver Fire paint. I already purchased the thrifty white board from HD and it's cut 48x85". I have an HD20 setup approx 12-13 feet away, room is dark blue with white drop ceiling. Basement home theatre with very limited ambient light from the upstairs door, nearly all dark... Purchased 3 yards of black velour to wrap the trim in.

Thanks in advance, you guys are guru's at this and really appear to help us noobies...

Questions:
1. with the newest version, are you using Liquitex Basics and not Matte finish (like the older formula)? FYI Basics are, 4oz = $5 at my Michaels and $3.35 online. (almost always have a 20% Michaels coupon though)... after you figure shipping then Michael's is better...
2. Which level of gold is best for my situation? I plan to spray with air gun
3. Should I just stick with the rs-maxxmudd ll v2.1 and keep it simple? Will there be a $30 difference (buying the SF color components)
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post #1015 of 1426 Old 08-01-2011, 06:53 PM
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So I went out and bought all the liquitex and minwax ingredients, and I'm waiting on my spray gun and the rustoleum for about a week and then it's time to get this done.

I'm spraying a cheap Mustang 120" matte white 1.0 gain retractable screen.

Epson 8350 at 15'sh feet, complete light control and soon to be as black of walls/ceiling/flooring as I want... I chose the SF V2.1 2.5 because I enjoy a bright vibrant image as I mostly play games. I'm not to worried about it being too bright, but I'm not sure what to expect so I don't want to overdo it either.

I'm not sure what they were but MM mentioned in some other thread there could be extra considerations in spraying a rectractable.

I was planning on spraying it vertically well secured against a wall. However it seems as though it might be more prone to streaking/drips because of the material. I'm planning on running a VERY light duster or two of matte white paint across this screen prior to the silver fire to get used to the process, but I was wondering if that was a mistake, or alternately if there was a certain paint/primer that would possibly not be as "streaky" and even possibly be tackier so the silver fire would be less prone to drip as well.

Any other advice is much appreciated, I really do not want to do this twice....

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post #1016 of 1426 Old 08-01-2011, 10:02 PM
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Use Gliddens "Gripper" Primer, diluted just enough that you can do at least 3 Dusters.

Then apply 4-5 light Dusters of the SF.
You can manage to affix the Screen against the wall by using 3" 3M Painter's blue Tape around the perimeter with a minimum/maximum of 1.5" of Tape on the Screen's Boarder.

Fill in the remaining space between the inside edge of the Tape and the edge of the screen. The outside edges must be flat and rest against the wall to allow for the paint to be applied evenly all the way out to the very edge of the "to be painted" area.

Another Tip....to prevent Bleed-Through onto the Black Boarder, pre wet the edge of the tape that lies against the edge of the Screen. Do this by carefully "Brush" applying a light edge coating of the Primer on the Tape...and just as close to the Screens Edge as possible, and then letting that Dry before you start to spray.
(...depending upon how much overlapping of the edges you have done with Dusters, the step just above might not be necessary...)

Carefully remove the protective Tape around the Boarder...but replace each outside strip with new tape so you keep the Screen edges Flat as the paint drys / cures.
This reduces / eliminates curling at the edges due to the paint contracting slightly as it dries.

Let the Screen dry for 3-4 days before releasing it from the wall and retracting it. Longer if cool & humid.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1017 of 1426 Old 08-02-2011, 12:42 PM
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Done. I can do all of that.

I never would have thought about the edge's possibly curling as it dries.

Well I feel like I've leeched enough knowledge out of you guys to give it a serious go without any issues.

Actually I have one more question... there is no problem with maybe spraying the dusters one evening and letting it sit until the next evening for the main coats is there? Or does this require me to get this coats on as the previous coat dries?

I can't imagine there would be an issue, but so far I haven't imagined a lot of little things that have been important on this project. I'm only thinking this because I will want to start it after work once i get the parts, but wondering if I need to set aside a day on the weekend.

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post #1018 of 1426 Old 08-02-2011, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishtank View Post


Actually I have one more question... there is no problem with maybe spraying the dusters one evening and letting it sit until the next evening for the main coats is there? Or does this require me to get this coats on as the previous coat dries?

I can't imagine there would be an issue, but so far I haven't imagined a lot of little things that have been important on this project.




In every case, waiting "longer" between coats is "Mo Bedder" than rushung the next coat.

The dryer the previous layer is, the less apt it is to absorb moisture from the following coat. That means less likelihood of "lifting and/or peeling", runs or "sliding", or the development of orange-peel texture.

Dusters do dry faster than normal coats. But also, since they seem so sparse, some go aead and just "dust again". And again.

And with these HVLP Guns squirting out such wet droplets, while they might be very small droplets, it doesn't take very many of them crowding close in on each other to run together....get some accumulated mass going for 'em, and start a vertically displaced "ooze" a'sliding on down..

Of course there is a fine balance between applying a maximum amount of paint without experiencing any of the above. It's a verrrry fine line made finer still by the paint's own thin properties. We advocate repeated 'Wet Dusters" because the surface's paint density builds up gradually, and far fewer Souls have to resort to wiping down a screen that looks like the sides of a hot Cinnamon roll just after having been iced.

If you have temps over 80, and moderate humidity (50 -60%), a normal Duster should be acceptably dry after 1 full hour. Overnight.....and it's ready for some real abuse.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #1019 of 1426 Old 08-07-2011, 11:15 AM
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Alright that all makes sense MM.

I should have the spray gun and rustoleum paint on wednesday it looks like now so I assume I'll start wednesday night.

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post #1020 of 1426 Old 08-17-2011, 04:05 AM
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hey all
first of all i want to thank all especially mm and p maxx for there expertise...i have been a long time watcher on avs ....
I have just upgraded to a HC4000 and am a little dissapointed in black levels and want to make a screen with silverfire....
I am using a cheap 1.2 gain pulldown 120" screen cieling mounted 4 meters(13ish feet) away..from what i can work out this is 19fl from projector central...
i would love to go bigger and will paint up something i can hang under the pull down...
from the research i have done it seems V2 2-3 would be ideal..
I am from australia and most of the paints are available here,but i need a substiute for behr upw flat #1850,as we dont have that here...i get that it is a very white flat paint but am unsure if i just should guess and substitute something for it?or if it is vital for the mix...any help is appreciated..i am looking forward to making my own screen between 130 - 140 inches 16:9

ps: 90% light controlled,mostly watched at night...but light walls and roof...also 80% movies in HD,20 sport in SD

cheers mark
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