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post #1171 of 1426 Old 10-11-2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The RS-MaxxMudd LL will take care of you.

I orderedthe sprayer. Will start gettting the materials.

Couple of questions.
- For a screen, is it better to take the screen off and spray with it flat on the ground (or is it better to do that with the screen fixed vertical).
- From an earlier post looks like the 60 odd oz the recipe creates will be enough for 150' diag screen. So, that should work for me as well ?

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post #1172 of 1426 Old 10-11-2011, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evnow View Post

I orderedthe sprayer. Will start gettting the materials.

Couple of questions.
- For a screen, is it better to take the screen off and spray with it flat on the ground (or is it better to do that with the screen fixed vertical).
- From an earlier post looks like the 60 odd oz the recipe creates will be enough for 150' diag screen. So, that should work for me as well ?

You have to spray vertically. For one, the sprayer would also stir up dust at floor level...and more importantly, the Guns will not work when held sideways pointing straight down.

The Mix should make more than 60 oz. More like almost a full 3 quarts. That will be enough for sure. 60 oz on 150" is the bare minimum as far as I'm concerned.

If I'm wrong on the amount, then I advise upping the quantity of the needed components by at least 50%

Post Note : Well...since the type of components used changed, the amount the mix makes did likewise. Increase everything proportionately until you achieve 3 quarts, then save any remaining paint for future touch-ups if ever are needed. Better to be safe...as well as have a little bit extra to practice with.

By the way...move your questions and progress report over to the RS-MaxxMudd thread.

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post #1173 of 1426 Old 10-11-2011, 11:31 AM
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I'm sure this has been asked before but what is the difference between maxxmudd and silverfire? Is maxxmudd recommended for 3d? I've got the same pj as evnow. My 106" screen has moderate ambient light to deal with.
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post #1174 of 1426 Old 10-11-2011, 06:51 PM
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My screen top is 7.5 feet off the ground. I am about 5' 10" and can hold the sprayer flat up to close to about the 6' 10" foot mark. With needing to angle it quite a bit to reach the top of the screen, will that be a problem?

My screen size is going to be 115". My current projector is the Sanyo z4. I am going to be looking into getting a new projector (possibly Panny 7000, JVC 45, or if I am not happy or feel the need for 3d, may just end up with the Epson 8700 or hold onto this Sanyo for one more year as I am generally happy with it - but am looking for something that might handle motion a bit better - fast scenes in movies or watching hockey is a bit blurry). My room has dark walls, carpet, and a beige ceiling. Most watching is during the evening but I do like to have some lights on in the back of the room and we watch during the day on the weekend at times (I have shades I pull but I do like some light in here so it is not so dark during the day). I see that you noted the black diamonds comparable is the 5.0. I was originally looking at the black diamond screen and almost bought one after I saw it at a dealer so that intrigues me. However, I don't know if it needs to be dark or if the whites will be crushed if I go that dark. Anyone have thoughts?

Further, for this screen size, is the normal mix amount enough?

Last, after I spray a primer, should I wait a week for the primer to cure or can I paint the silver fire the day or two after spraying the primer?
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post #1175 of 1426 Old 10-11-2011, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken2011 View Post

My screen top is 7.5 feet off the ground. I am about 5' 10" and can hold the sprayer flat up to close to about the 6' 10" foot mark. With needing to angle it quite a bit to reach the top of the screen, will that be a problem?

My screen size is going to be 115". My current projector is the Sanyo z4. I am going to be looking into getting a new projector (possibly Panny 7000, JVC 45, or if I am not happy or feel the need for 3d, may just end up with the Epson 8700 or hold onto this Sanyo for one more year as I am generally happy with it - but am looking for something that might handle motion a bit better - fast scenes in movies or watching hockey is a bit blurry). My room has dark walls, carpet, and a beige ceiling. Most watching is during the evening but I do like to have some lights on in the back of the room and we watch during the day on the weekend at times (I have shades I pull but I do like some light in here so it is not so dark during the day). I see that you noted the black diamonds comparable is the 5.0. I was originally looking at the black diamond screen and almost bought one after I saw it at a dealer so that intrigues me. However, I don't know if it needs to be dark or if the whites will be crushed if I go that dark. Anyone have thoughts?

Further, for this screen size, is the normal mix amount enough?

Last, after I spray a primer, should I wait a week for the primer to cure or can I paint the silver fire the day or two after spraying the primer?

Let me finish DWTS............

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post #1176 of 1426 Old 10-11-2011, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Let me finish DWTS............

Wait...WHAT?

I hereby make a citizen's arrest and seize your man card for one full year!
You can 'bail out' your man card if you come to my house and paint me a 130' diagonal SF 3.0 screen on a drywall. *evilgrin*
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post #1177 of 1426 Old 10-11-2011, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impetus View Post

Wait...WHAT?

I hereby make a citizen's arrest and seize your man card for one full year!
You can 'bail out' your man card if you come to my house and paint me a 130' diagonal SF 3.0 screen on a drywall. *evilgrin*

Tell ya what...you can have my man card...I'll just keep steppin' out with Cheryl.

......and I'll still find time to get some screens painted any damn way!

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post #1178 of 1426 Old 10-11-2011, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken2011 View Post

My screen top is 7.5 feet off the ground. I am about 5' 10" and can hold the sprayer flat up to close to about the 6' 10" foot mark. With needing to angle it quite a bit to reach the top of the screen, will that be a problem?

Might be. It takes practice to be able to stretch out that far....maintain a steady paced side-step, maintain distance...and maintain a level height.

Myself...when faced with "The Big Stretch" I cannot really reach I build a walkway.

2 - 2x8sx12s. 6 -5 gallon buckets Some Scrap Plywood or 2x4s



But since I've got lottsa practice I can get by with just a single 2x12x12 on top if 3 Buckets. It's all about mastering the "Mississippi Shuffle"

Quote:


My screen size is going to be 115". My current projector is the Sanyo z4. I am going to be looking into getting a new projector (possibly Panny 7000, JVC 45, or if I am not happy or feel the need for 3d, may just end up with the Epson 8700 or hold onto this Sanyo for one more year as I am generally happy with it - but am looking for something that might handle motion a bit better - fast scenes in movies or watching hockey is a bit blurry). My room has dark walls, carpet, and a beige ceiling. Most watching is during the evening but I do like to have some lights on in the back of the room and we watch during the day on the weekend at times (I have shades I pull but I do like some light in here so it is not so dark during the day). I see that you noted the black diamonds comparable is the 5.0. I was originally looking at the black diamond screen and almost bought one after I saw it at a dealer so that intrigues me. However, I don't know if it needs to be dark or if the whites will be crushed if I go that dark. Anyone have thoughts?

Might I venture an opinion?

If you are for sure gonna wait to upgrade, I suggest you go with SF v2.5 3.0 or RS-MaxxMudd Retro of you want to stay on top of the heap with bright colors and deep blacks, yet no White Crush. A SF 5.0 would be too dark for just 1000 lumens.

Quote:


urther, for this screen size, is the normal mix amount enough?

If you nail it first off you should have a teenie weency bit left over.

Quote:


Last, after I spray a primer, should I wait a week for the primer to cure or can I paint the silver fire the day or two after spraying the primer?

You can paint the SF about 2 hours after the last coat of Primer is dry if you have good drying conditions. But a overnight wait can only be considered "more that long enough".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #1179 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Might be. It takes practice to be able to stretch out that far....maintain a steady paced side-step, maintain distance...and maintain a level height.

Myself...when faced with "The Big Stretch" I cannot really reach I build a walkway.

2 - 2x8sx12s. 6 -5 gallon buckets Some Scrap Plywood or 2x4s



But since I've got lottsa practice I can get by with just a single 2x12x12 on top if 3 Buckets. It's all about mastering the "Mississippi Shuffle"



Might I venture an opinion?

If you are for sure gonna wait to upgrade, I suggest you go with SF v2.5 3.0 or RS-MaxxMudd Retro of you want to stay on top of the heap with bright colors and deep blacks, yet no White Crush. A SF 5.0 would be too dark for just 1000 lumens.

If you nail it first off you should have a teenie weency bit left over.



You can paint the SF about 2 hours after the last coat of Primer is dry if you have good drying conditions. But a overnight wait can only be considered "more that long enough".


So, should I make more mix? What have others found with a screen about this size? Is one batch enough. If I need to make more mix, I need to go out and buy some more stuff I think.


Well, I am definately going to upgrade at some point, probably at the latest when the new stuff comes out next year. So, I would almost rather deal with a slightly dim image for at max one year than repaint it again. Would 4.0 be a good compromise? Also, as you go up in silverfire number, does the gain decrease and whites look more dirty?

Also, when mixing the colorant, I believe the 60ml's of water is used to clean the utensils while measuring and then you put the water in the colorant mix, then into the main mix?

Last, when mixing the first part of the mix and the viscosity part, can you just put it all in one bucket and mix together or do you have to mix the first part first, then mix the second part, then put them together and mix them?
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post #1180 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 07:52 AM
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Ken2011,

No re-paint required...with a 3.0 you'd get a decent image with the Z4, and later on you'd be able to run a new PJ on economy.

As stated, it's enough mix if you do it right....no miscues. You can't hurt yourself trying...worst case you'd have to make up a 1/2 batch to finish up.

Reflective and Viscosity bases can be mixed together at any point. Colorant is added last.

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post #1181 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Ken2011;

the mix as is can easily do 150+ inch screen... so 1 batch is plenty.

the base and viscosity components can all be mix together in a gallon bucket.
the water used to rinse the colorant from the utensils is indeed then used to mix colorant.

then from the completed colorant mix... you would then add 1.0oz to 5.0oz of the colorant mix (dependent on which SF hue) to the base/viscosity mix in the gallon bucket.

as for SF 4.0 ... i'd recommend that you have about 25fL's to work with. so keep that in mind if you plan on doing one now and upgrading to a newer pj like the Epson 3010 (2200 lumens)or 5010 (2400 lumens) later on.

---

edit. that MM sure is a quick two finger typist.
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post #1182 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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SF V2.5 10.0 exists powered by as little as 18-20fL's.
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post #1183 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 08:16 AM
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Ken2011 won't have even 10 fls with a 5.0 using a Z4

Quick? And I was typing witb one finger while driving down a twisty county road.

Lonely though.....no traffic.

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post #1184 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 08:20 AM
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Right now, I am shining the image on the sintra that I sanded down last night. The projector lens is about 14' 6" from the screen. With the dull surface due to the thin layer of drywall mud, I can't be getting anything more than a 1.0 gain screen surface (maybe less). My bulb has about 600 hours on it. I think the image is plenty bright but could be just a bit brighter. The projector central calculator says with a 1.0 gain screen from this distance with my Sanyo I am getting around 11 FL. Since the silverfire is 1.2 gain, that means I will be getting about 13 FL. As I said, it seems plenty bright for most viewing (at least when I was watching sports). Maybe I don't know what a proper image brightness should look like as I have been shining on a wall for so long. Does this sound like I calculated it right?
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post #1185 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

with an hd3300 at say... 11.5 ft... you'd have about 28fL's... enough to do easily do a SF v2.5 4.0 if you are having to deal with lots of ambient light... otherwise 3.0 is a more conservative choice.

When you say I have 28fl's....is that in cinema mode with the Optoma HD3300 or in bright mode? I would like to go with SF 2.5 v4.0 but am worried that in 3d it would make it too dim? Should I go 3.0? 106" screen.
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post #1186 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

SF V2.5 10.0 exists powered by as little as 18-20fL's.


show us screenies!!

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post #1187 of 1426 Old 10-12-2011, 09:00 AM
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ya, very interested to see SF V2.5 7.0, 8.0, 9.0 and 10.0 screen in action
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post #1188 of 1426 Old 10-13-2011, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WereWolf84 View Post

ya, very interested to see SF V2.5 7.0, 8.0, 9.0 and 10.0 screen in action

There should be at least some of those results posting up very soon.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1189 of 1426 Old 10-13-2011, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken2011 View Post

Right now, I am shining the image on the sintra that I sanded down last night. The projector lens is about 14' 6" from the screen. With the dull surface due to the thin layer of drywall mud, I can't be getting anything more than a 1.0 gain screen surface (maybe less). My bulb has about 600 hours on it. I think the image is plenty bright but could be just a bit brighter. The projector central calculator says with a 1.0 gain screen from this distance with my Sanyo I am getting around 11 FL. Since the silverfire is 1.2 gain, that means I will be getting about 13 FL. As I said, it seems plenty bright for most viewing (at least when I was watching sports). Maybe I don't know what a proper image brightness should look like as I have been shining on a wall for so long. Does this sound like I calculated it right?

Any thoughts?
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post #1190 of 1426 Old 10-13-2011, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken2011 View Post

Any thoughts?

Sports always look good. And 13 fls in the dark can get you by.
But do want to "get by"?

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1191 of 1426 Old 10-13-2011, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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next up. SF V2.5 10.0 meets 'white-fusion'... ...2nd surface white fusion that is.
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post #1192 of 1426 Old 10-14-2011, 02:13 PM
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Quick question to you 2 mad scientist (PB/MM) have you guys developed anything that would rival those new black screens?
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post #1193 of 1426 Old 10-14-2011, 08:33 PM
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I'm a happy silver fire user (just saw the silver fire roll call thread, will post in there in a minute ), but I'm about to rebuild screen, change projector, etc.etc.etc. - and this whole multiple hue thing is new to me (or I didn't know about it last time, anyway, new or not! ), so I want to be sure I'm approaching this properly



I've got a converted attic with complete light control. When the lights are out here, there is simply NO light at all.

However ---

Though I'm capable of controlling the light here, that's often not how it's used. The family wants to hang out, and often there's a little bit of light around. The walls and ceiling will all soon be a middle grey -

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/p...243-79917.html

The lighting is all directional, though not perfectly so (the ceiling is shallow, so no recessed, but I've got fixtures with 3 rotatable spotlight pods all pointed away from the screen).


Right now I'm using an Optoma HD66 is eco mode in this room - the colors are configured as per one of the early reviews, and in that review it measured about 570 lumens in that color config in eco mode. The screen is 74" diagonal now, using a silver fire mix from (I think) late 2009. Right now the lamp has about 3500 hours on it. I'd characterize the 3d brightness as somewhat low, and the 2d brightness as "pretty good".

I'm upgrading to an Epson 3010. Ratings are fine and dandy, but real-world output is another ... It's hard to say what the "calibrated" brightness will be on it, but based on early tests of other units in the lineup, 700-800 is a good guess. I will want to run in low-light mode, since the perch is extremely close to seating positions. That should put it about 25% brighter than my current projector.... BUT I'm also going to be projectiong a larger image (98" diagonal vs. 74" diag). And I do watch a lot of 3d material (mostly games, but movies as well.


Anyway, based on all that I'm guessing silver fire 3.0 would probably fit this situation. What do you think? Am I on the right track?
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post #1194 of 1426 Old 10-14-2011, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
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defiancecp;

if you are going with the epson 3010 at 98"... then i'd recommend going with SF V2.5 4.0. let me just say that the epson was by far the best active 3D projector at CEDIA. and the epson reps stated over and over again... pair it with a quality grey screen.

well if you have SF already... then SF v2.5 is actually a couple of shades 'lighter' than previous SF variants. therefore a SF V2.5 4.0 (4 ounces of colorant) is as light in color as a previous SF V1 2.0 (2 ounces of colorant)

at any rate you will not have an issue with 3D brightness and SF V2.5... and certainly not when using an epson 3010. they were made for each other
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post #1195 of 1426 Old 10-14-2011, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiDef Lover View Post

Quick question to you 2 mad scientist (PB/MM) have you guys developed anything that would rival those new black screens?

are you kidding? there's not a single new or old 'blackscreen' from the 'big boys' that puts a scare or hurt on SF V2.5.
after spending 2 full days at CEDIA this year... only one big name manufacturer had a screen that was respectfully better then the SF V2.5 7.0 sample we had on hand. and that was the newest DNP Supernova 2.4 gain.
it had a slight advantage with deeper black levels and a slightly brighter top end white level.
since then we've managed to take SF to another level with higher gain, and deeper black levels, and a brighter top end white level... from SF 6.0 up 10.0 and beyond.

not only can SF visually compete with the big boys... we make their pricing structure seem awful silly.
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post #1196 of 1426 Old 10-14-2011, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defiancecp View Post

I'm a happy silver fire user


I've got a converted attic with complete light control. When the lights are out here, there is simply NO light at all.

However ---

Though I'm capable of controlling the light here, that's often not how it's used. The family wants to hang out, and often there's a little bit of light around. The walls and ceiling will all soon be a middle grey -

The lighting is all directional, though not perfectly so (the ceiling is shallow, so no recessed, but I've got fixtures with 3 rotatable spotlight pods all pointed away from the screen).


Right now I'm using an Optoma HD66 is eco mode in this room - the colors are configured as per one of the early reviews, and in that review it measured about 570 lumens in that color config in eco mode. The screen is 74" diagonal now, using a silver fire mix from (I think) late 2009. Right now the lamp has about 3500 hours on it. I'd characterize the 3d brightness as somewhat low, and the 2d brightness as "pretty good".

I'm upgrading to an Epson 3010. Ratings are fine and dandy, but real-world output is another ... It's hard to say what the "calibrated" brightness will be on it, but based on early tests of other units in the lineup, 700-800 is a good guess. I will want to run in low-light mode, since the perch is extremely close to seating positions. That should put it about 25% brighter than my current projector.... BUT I'm also going to be projectiong a larger image (98" diagonal vs. 74" diag). And I do watch a lot of 3d material (mostly games, but movies as well.


Anyway, based on all that I'm guessing silver fire 3.0 would probably fit this situation. What do you think? Am I on the right track?

Hi! Glad to see you back hitting the Boards.

With having acquired a good deal of experience with using the 8350 over the last 10 months, and taking into account that the 3010 in 3D mode is easily "as bright as" the Econo mode on the 8350......, and that your screen size is still under control at 98" diagonal ( 48" x 85" ).....and that the 3010 needs as much a nudge in the Contrast dept as the 8350 always has.......,

..............I don't hesitate to advise you to consider SF 2.5 4.0 or 5.0.

Absolutely. IMHO 5.0 is the way to go......you have more lumens than the 8350 or 8700, and both those have performed splendidly with the 4's & 5's.


Why...at that size a 6.0 on top a Acrylic Mirror would take you, a current owner of a older SF screen to incomprehensible heights of visual nirvana ala Black Flame Light Fusion.

That's what I said.....,

Now that we have become engaged in employing far darker mixes than ever before...and the PJs have matched with lumen gains, the added effect of Light Fusion is highly desirable.

Something to consider.......

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #1197 of 1426 Old 10-14-2011, 09:07 PM
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Hey...PB! I thought you said I was fast. You ripped off two in the time I was still "peckin' away>"

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #1198 of 1426 Old 10-15-2011, 03:23 PM
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5.0 it is then

Can't find the rustoleum white pearl here though (little rock). Ordered on Amazon, estimate late next week

I'm in the midst of re-painting the whole attic now - just finished prepwork on that - original plan was to build & paint screen first so I didn't have to worry about overspray, but I can't put the whole project on hold for a week, so I guess I'll finish the rest and just mask off the walls when I'm ready to screen paint.

Anyway, many thanks!
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post #1199 of 1426 Old 10-15-2011, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken2011 View Post

Right now, I am shining the image on the sintra that I sanded down last night. The projector lens is about 14' 6" from the screen. With the dull surface due to the thin layer of drywall mud, I can't be getting anything more than a 1.0 gain screen surface (maybe less). My bulb has about 600 hours on it. I think the image is plenty bright but could be just a bit brighter. The projector central calculator says with a 1.0 gain screen from this distance with my Sanyo I am getting around 11 FL. Since the silverfire is 1.2 gain, that means I will be getting about 13 FL. As I said, it seems plenty bright for most viewing (at least when I was watching sports). Maybe I don't know what a proper image brightness should look like as I have been shining on a wall for so long. Does this sound like I calculated it right?

Finished painting my screen about six hours ago. I went with the Silverfire 3.0. Image brightness is fine but there is definately a hot spot in bright scenes that moves with you as you move. Also in bright scenes (I put on a hockey and football game, the screen looks almost sparkly or glittery. Hard to explain. Maybe because it is because the screen is still relatively new and hasn't cured yet. Will this soften over the next week. If not, I can't believe others aren't seeing the same thing. Maybe I did something wrong. I was very careful in measuring. I put on three dusters, three heavier coats, and three more dusters. Any one have any opinions or thoughts.
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post #1200 of 1426 Old 10-15-2011, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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it will soften. your paint is basically still damp and uncured.

secondly... you will want to recalibrate the brightness / contrast / gamma of your projector for the new screen.

thirdly, you can always add 2 to 3oz per quart that you have remaining and add a couple of dusters remove any hotspotting or graininess.
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