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post #1291 of 1426 Old 11-22-2011, 01:37 PM
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Thanks for the reply pb.

I haven't done fL calculations before, so please bear with me. I'm pretty sure I had dialed in the 12.5' throw distance, but I was also assuming I needed to drop the lumens an additional 34% due to the masked vertical lines in 2.35 mode. Is this wrong?

Thanks,
Darrell
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post #1292 of 1426 Old 11-30-2011, 07:26 PM
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Does anyone know the gain and directionality for the different levels of SF v2.5?
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post #1293 of 1426 Old 12-08-2011, 10:47 AM
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So i want to attempt this. I've read a ton and my head is spinning. Hopefully you can answer some of my questions. Any hand holding is appreciated

1 - I see the ingredients, but i'm not 100% certain about the recipe. What do i mix to what in which order? Can somebody spell it out for me so i don't mess it up? In other words - Step 1, do this, step 2, do this etc.

2 - How much paint will i end up with using the ingredients listed? As in - enough to cover a 8x4 sheet? Do i need more paint? (I assume it's better to make more paint ahead of time.)

3 - Once i have it mixed, i need to do some sort of straining / thinning apparently to get it to the right viscosity. Can somebody spell out what tools i need for this and what to do exactly?

4 - The actual spraying: While i have seen the videos with the technique, i'm not certain about the surrounding / supporting stuff. Like - I'm supposed to spray some light coats with time between them. Having never done any spray painting, i do not know if / what all i should do with the paint and spray gun etc during that down time. Do i need to put the paint back in a can and clean out the spray gun completely between each coat? If so, what's the best way to do so? Assume you're talking to be a total newbie here.

5 - Can you confirm the number of coats, type of coats and time between coats for me? My head is kind of spinning with all the info, and i'm not certain about this part anymore.

Thanks!

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post #1294 of 1426 Old 12-08-2011, 11:43 AM
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Lots of Q's....but no time to answer at present. Read some more...it's all in here and on other related threads. Barring the success of such a self-taught effort, I'll reply at length (unless beaten to it...) later this PM.:

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1295 of 1426 Old 12-09-2011, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Lots of Q's....but no time to answer at present. Read some more...it's all in here and on other related threads. Barring the success of such a self-taught effort, I'll reply at length (unless beaten to it...) later this PM.:

Alright, let me see if i got this right then for #1 -

Mix the base & viscosity components together. In my case (going for a 3.0 screen): Mix 22oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl, 22oz Liquitex Basics Silver, 10oz Behr 1850 UPW Flat, 2oz Liquitex Basics Gold, 12oz of Minwax Polycrylic, and 24oz of distilled water. Then separately mix the color components. Then the mixed color components with the other mixed stuff. Is that correct?

I still haven't found the answer to the other questions, or found differing information in various threads

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post #1296 of 1426 Old 12-09-2011, 10:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan View Post

...Then the mixed color components with the other mixed stuff. Is that correct?

almost. the mixed colorants makes a little over 6oz. since you shooting for SF 3.0... then you'd only be adding 3.0oz of colorant to the mixed batch of base/viscosity components.

determining the viscosity of the entire mix is a little trickier... read on... it's there.

gotta run.
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post #1297 of 1426 Old 12-09-2011, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

almost. the mixed colorants makes a little over 6oz. since you shooting for SF 3.0... then you'd only be adding 3.0oz of colorant to the mixed batch of base/viscosity components.

Aha! Thanks for clarifying that.

Quote:


determining the viscosity of the entire mix is a little trickier... read on... it's there.

alright, reading more.

Just found out my spay gun (never used) is a LVLP, not HVLP. I assume that is not (as) suitable? If not, would it be better to just buy the Wagner at HD (about $70 it looks like) or a spray gun to go with my compressor (plus pressure regular and rust filter etc)?

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post #1298 of 1426 Old 12-09-2011, 12:52 PM
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I just started my painting the other day. And I agree it is a bit info overload. I'll help the best I can:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan View Post


2 - How much paint will i end up with using the ingredients listed? As in - enough to cover a 8x4 sheet? Do i need more paint? (I assume it's better to make more paint ahead of time.) You will have plenty, with enough left over for touch ups later. I'm painting a 107"x60" screen and have about 1/4th - 1/3rd left over, but I mixed in about 36oz of the water.

3 - Once i have it mixed, i need to do some sort of straining / thinning apparently to get it to the right viscosity. Can somebody spell out what tools i need for this and what to do exactly? Just go to Home Depot / Lowes and get some paint strainers near their spraying equipment. You'll thin it to a consistancy that produces an even spray spatter from about 16" or so. You'll realize what it needs when you practice the first time. Change your gun's level to get it as best as possible then thin your paint more if you need it. It will be obvious when you spray on a practice piece ( I just used the side of a cardboard box.)

4 - The actual spraying: While i have seen the videos with the technique, i'm not certain about the surrounding / supporting stuff. Like - I'm supposed to spray some light coats with time between them. Having never done any spray painting, i do not know if / what all i should do with the paint and spray gun etc during that down time. Do i need to put the paint back in a can and clean out the spray gun completely between each coat? If so, what's the best way to do so? Assume you're talking to be a total newbie here. Clean up after each spray, it's just safer that way and you won't clog the gun. It takes less than 5 minutes to clean it out so what do you have to lose? I just poured the paint back in the can, cleaned out the gun's container, and then filled it with water and ran it for 45 seconds, per the manufacturers directions, to clean the nozzle. Spray two light coats, duster coats. 18" away from the screen (I practiced with a tape measure till I was comfortable maintaining distance). It'll look like spatter on the screen, like you flicked a paint brush at it, but more even. Depending on conditions it'll dry within less than an hour. Do two of these to provide something for the heavier coats to tack to. Then do your heaver coats, letting dry inbetween, and adjust your starting point and overlap so you don't get any lines. After the second coat, you should be good, just go slow and do more lighter coats if you're not comfortable. Finally, once your satisfied with nice even, silvery finish lay on two light duster coats like the first and you're done!

5 - Can you confirm the number of coats, type of coats and time between coats for me? My head is kind of spinning with all the info, and i'm not certain about this part anymore. See above.
Thanks!

Hope that all helps,

miataguy
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post #1299 of 1426 Old 12-09-2011, 02:56 PM
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@ Gertjan:

Follow the steps outlined in the ERuiz quote contained in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1378624

I think there are also some answers to your other questions in there, too.
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post #1300 of 1426 Old 12-09-2011, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan View Post

Aha! Thanks for clarifying that.

alright, reading more.

Just found out my spay gun (never used) is a LVLP, not HVLP. I assume that is not (as) suitable? If not, would it be better to just buy the Wagner at HD (about $70 it looks like) or a spray gun to go with my compressor (plus pressure regular and rust filter etc)?

Yes....YES....YES By all means get a different Gun. Like this one.....;

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

A Turbine -Hose Fed Electric HVLP with everything you need to paint like a Compressor Fed HVLP on Steroids. But no Rust/Water Filter, tons easier to use , and as light as having a Quart of Liquid in your outstretched hand, and about 10 oz more weight attributed to the Gun itself.

Much preferred by all those who have gotten one, over any Hand Held Turbine.....for all the obvious reasons, including that the Hand Held costs more. Don't pass this one up.

But if you do, the Wagner Double Duty is perfectly suited to the task as well. However it's bulky, fairly heavy to some,(...the Motor is in your Hand...) and tends to make people's arm wobble and dip....even "Arrrnuld Types".

My point being I have both...had the WG-DD first...but as long as the "No Name" (Graco) is available, it reigns supreme for discerning DIY'ers

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post #1301 of 1426 Old 12-09-2011, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miataguy View Post

Hope that all helps

Sure did, thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by roknrol View Post

Follow the steps outlined in the ERuiz quote contained in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1378624

I think there are also some answers to your other questions in there, too.

Excellent, thank you for linking to that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Yes....YES....YES By all means get a different Gun. Like this one.....;

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

Sounds good to me I'll probably order one this weekend.

Thanks for all the help guys, i appreciate it

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post #1302 of 1426 Old 12-10-2011, 08:06 PM
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Well I just purchased the sprayer what have I done? What is the best solution for my JVC RS2 building a 127" curved scope screen? I want plenty of pop and PQ but have no clue which paint mix to use? Currently have a HP HC 2.4 110" flat scoped screen and am wanting the same if not more performace and pop! Silver 3.0 is what comes to mind?

THANKS

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post #1303 of 1426 Old 12-10-2011, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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greg,

the hp and sf are two completely different animals. the hp is all about gain. the sf is all about contrast but with enough gain to not
miss the top end white levels of the hp.

i'm gonna say at your proposed screen size... you should be using SF 2.0
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post #1304 of 1426 Old 12-10-2011, 08:55 PM
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Thanks PB I remeasured and it will be 137" diagonal with about 500 lumens.
I read up on silver 2.0 if you feel that would be the best then I will go with
it. . My room walls and ceiling are black with total light control. Also will the sheen be gone in bright area's that is present with the HP?

Thanks

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post #1305 of 1426 Old 12-11-2011, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg1292 View Post

Thanks PB I remeasured and it will be 137" diagonal with about 500 lumens.
I read up on silver 2.0 if you feel that would be the best then I will go with
it. Also will the sheen be gone in bright area's that is present with the HP?

Thanks

Use the Duster method on the last two coats to assure you have no sheen.

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post #1306 of 1426 Old 12-11-2011, 04:21 PM
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[quote=MississippiMan;21331125]Use the Duster method on the last two coats to assure you have no sheen.[/QUOTE

2 dusters
2 heavier
2 dusters and should be good to go? The video is very helpful and can't wait to get my Indiana shuffle on
I start building the curve screen tomorrow any problems with spraying a curved screen that I might run into? I am going with a 5X10 Sinatra substrate 6mm or can I go smaller 3mm? The radius of the screen will be 25.5 that I got from CAVX. I am excited about my Christmas project and hope it all comes together!

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post #1307 of 1426 Old 12-11-2011, 05:04 PM
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Hold on,,,,look for a response before the AM.

Meanwhile, can you post specifics about the screen's curved frame build?

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post #1308 of 1426 Old 12-11-2011, 05:15 PM
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thanks MissisippiMan of all I could find this looked like the easiest and have
a friend with a shop to get the job done. TR6 did this in 2007. Was going to
mount to the top the sinatra no masking and black felt the back wall for the over spill.
Going for the floating look. 120X51.5 130.5 Diagonal


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=933667&page=2

I am open to suggestions.

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post #1309 of 1426 Old 12-12-2011, 02:43 AM
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Looks good. Use the 6mm Sintra. Less flex, yet still easily bendable.

Painting onto the curvature is possible, but at each end you will have to adjust both angle and distance. Another issue is the drop-off at each end and the sides. When your at those points, a flush (...or nearly so...) run off area is needed so as to prevent what is called "Vortex-ing"... a swirling of paint at the edge that prevents an even lay down on the edges.

I gotta ask why the Curve? Anamorphic lens? Cosmetic appeal?

Of everything, getting rid of the drop-off while painting is the most critical. Otherwise, paint the Screen "on the Flat" and after it is well dried, then mount onto the Frame.

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post #1310 of 1426 Old 12-12-2011, 05:51 AM
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Have a Prisamasonic H-FE1500R lens and a short throw also I have seen one i n action
And like rhe effect. I will need to think about how I want to paint flat or curved. Number of coats is fine or only 1 heavy coat?

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post #1311 of 1426 Old 12-12-2011, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg1292 View Post

Have a Prisamasonic H-FE1500R lens and a short throw also I have seen one i n action
And like rhe effect. I will need to think about how I want to paint flat or curved. Number of coats is fine or only 1 heavy coat?

Well, your going to hang the entire assembly on the wall. So just hang the Sintra on the wall first.

It's that border-less idea that is making it more difficult. If you had even 1 extra inch on the top, just shooting a few screws through along the top edge would allow a flush lay against the wall. You might consider designing the screen so there is 2" space around the image.(...yeah, that means a slightly smaller, 116" x 49" 126" diagonal screen...) You could use that first for hanging the sheet on Drywall to paint, then to attach the screen firmly to the Curved Frame. Simple smooth-edged MDF Baseboard Trim cut down to 2.5" wide and wrapped in Velvet or ProtoStar could cover things up, and with the Black Background will still serve to provide the "Floating Image" effect.

.......and of course, it would allow you to disassemble the Sintra should you ever have to make any changes or repairs.

You really do not want to make your first attempt at painting a high performance screen contingent on being able to adjust spraying technique and compensating for "edge issues".

As someone who does these things for others, and often has to adjust on-the-fly, such a small adaptation as painting Flat on the wall, then screwing the Sintra down onto the Frame using the same holes, then adding the thin trim option to cover would be an obvious issue solver.

And well worth considering.

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post #1312 of 1426 Old 12-12-2011, 08:41 PM
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After thinking it over I am going to go with the frameless approach and go
for it. The ends will be tricky but going for maximum effect. The radius will be
7.4" at the end of the screen. Thanks for the advice and will attach 2 ft of cardboard to each side,top,and bottom to make sure I am going off the screen
the required distance and will drop down 4" on each row. The trick will be to keep the 16" of spraying distance as the screen curves out. Ended up going
with 1x10x10 and will do a center rib for support. Total cost for the materials
for the screen including the Graco sprayer 325.00. Here is a pic of the paint
supplies only took me 4 stores to find it all lol

MM so am I fine with 2 dusters 3 seconds across the screen,2 heavier 6 seconds, then a final 2 dusters?
LL

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post #1313 of 1426 Old 12-12-2011, 09:43 PM
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Greg,

Play it safe and do 3 Dusters, let the 3rd dry completely, heat your work area as much as possible, then apply a Normal coat(...I hate the expression "Heavy"...conjures up disaster scenarios...) and then two Dusters.

Nice "paints" Photo....just might snag it for reference.

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post #1314 of 1426 Old 12-13-2011, 12:34 AM
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Hi MM & PB,

Which version of SF would you suggest if my target pj would be either Optoma GT750 or Panasonic AR100 for a 120" screen under moderate to strong ambient light environment.......SF2.5 5.0 with 1.2 gain?
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post #1315 of 1426 Old 12-13-2011, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WereWolf84 View Post

Hi MM & PB,

Which version of SF would you suggest if my target pj would be either Optoma GT750 or Panasonic AR100 for a 120" screen under moderate to strong ambient light environment.......SF2.5 5.0 with 1.2 gain?

Well....the Panny is by far the better unit, albiet also the more expensive of the two. There isn't enough difference in Lumens on the Optoma to warrant it's selection in conjunction with using a darker SF. What really makes the difference is the Panny's better contrast, which combined with 2800 lumens makes wonderful things happen.

If you can mount the Panny at / close to 12' 2" and achieve 35 fls, a SF v2.5 5.0 would perform splendidly. That would make a whole lot better sense anyway than using a PJ that has no Lens Shift, a 115% Lens Offset, no Zoom, and needs to be within 6' from the screen to give you 120" diagonal.

Did you know any of those considerations?

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post #1316 of 1426 Old 12-13-2011, 08:08 AM
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Thanks MM for the advise. Yes, I'm aware of all those considerations, I have read few reviews on these 2 pjs lately......btw, I noticed that there is a minor change/reverse in the ingredients of the SF mix, but I already bought the Rust-Oleum Metallic White, is it ok to use back it?
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post #1317 of 1426 Old 12-13-2011, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WereWolf84 View Post

Thanks MM for the advise. Yes, I'm aware of all those considerations, I have read few reviews on these 2 pjs lately......btw, I noticed that there is a minor change/reverse in the ingredients of the SF mix, but I already bought the Rust-Oleum Metallic White, is it ok to use back it?

Never heard of the above, you must be thinking about "White Pearl"?

Anyway...the change involved the Liquitex Titainium White , which was dropped in favor of the Behr 1850 Flat Enamel.

Leastwise that's all I know of at present.

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post #1318 of 1426 Old 12-13-2011, 09:07 AM
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ya, it should be Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents White Pearl
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post #1319 of 1426 Old 12-13-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WereWolf84 View Post

ya, it should be Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents White Pearl

Well then use it.....but don't abuse it.

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post #1320 of 1426 Old 12-13-2011, 09:44 AM
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MM thanks for final words of advice and encouragement. Should be done
and hung by next week.

Also heat should not be a problem using a heated paint booth to spray
the screen.

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