FnEasy DIY Painted Screen Solution - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 380 Old 06-28-2007, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by [Square] View Post

1) Nope. A buddy of mine worked at a business that was moving and they were just going to throw it away. You'd never guess that it was in a business because it actually looks a lot like a (funky) bar. You can still see where the cash register bolted in and where the silent alarm was (business wasn't in the best part of town).

2) Nope again. The basement was finished when we moved in and with our furniture...it is pretty much arranged the way it is going to be.

I was just wondering about your carpentry skills. You said you wanted to get it right the first time so that made me think you should look at the Laminates. The Designer white would work well in a darkened room and for bright sports with some ambient light. The Fashoin Gray would be better if you expect some ambient light most of the time.

Laminates are almost indestructible and produce very good results as screens. It just requires a bit of effort to get them mounted well so they stay flat.

Otherwise an Fneasy-03 sound reasonable. It will get you some ambient light tolerance without sacrificing a lot on the white end.


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post #362 of 380 Old 06-28-2007, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

I was just wondering about your carpentry skills. You said you wanted to get it right the first time so that made me think you should look at the Laminates. The Designer white would work well in a darkened room and for bright sports with some ambient light. The Fashoin Gray would be better if you expect some ambient light most of the time.

Laminates are almost indestructible and produce very good results as screens. It just requires a bit of effort to get them mounted well so they stay flat.

Otherwise an Fneasy-03 sound reasonable. It will get you some ambient light tolerance without sacrificing a lot on the white end.

Right on...I see where you were going now. I'm still a young guy and learning a lot of house project stuff. The basement was already finished, but I installed the laminate flooring in the entry way (so I don't think I'm hopeless). I think I can handle a painted solution (or at least I plan on trying and seeing how it goes). I can always use a laminate as plan B. Thanks man!
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post #363 of 380 Old 06-29-2007, 12:42 PM
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The link on the first post of this thread doesn't seem to work ... just wanted to point that out since I'm trying to find the info

Thanks,
Harry
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post #364 of 380 Old 06-29-2007, 12:43 PM
 
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tiddler has moved on...

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post #365 of 380 Old 06-29-2007, 09:32 PM
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Hello, I haven't messaged up here in a while.. Nice seeing some names here that I use to see still messaging.. : 0) I have a panny 500u and recently painted my screen in a gray screen flat.. I have a friend that bought a screen from his bossman that is already painted a shade of grey.. But does not know the color name, nor does the bossman remember the color of it..After much testing different colors of grey, I had come to the conclusion that a close shade of grey can easily be fixed as far as for RGB yield..It would appear that the true consideration comes with the depth of the color itself..How dark or light a grey do I really want?My friend lives a little ways away from me and being he has a 300u, we used my 500u to play games on..Gears of war and call of duty 3. on the xbox 360 .They looked awesome on his screen.. Measured 9X5 feet. I built basically the same screen size but had no color comparisons to go against his screen color..Other than the game play viewing itself..So I implemented many different colors of grey testing..With great contrast and daylight friendly as possible while not loosing my whites any more than I could help it..Though the results of my screen color are ok.. I was wondering if there were any new colors here and maybe combination of methods that have really overshown the results that I had drown from here 6 months ago... And still honestly, gray screen or colors close to that shade doesn't come close to the contrast in color that I saw at his house on his screen..Going much darker gray is iffy when you think of a 500u..1280X1024 is great, 1300:1 contrast holds it's own..But the low lummens is really what holds me back from trying darker though.. Just curious as to what people here may think.. Shawn
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post #366 of 380 Old 06-30-2007, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn28341 View Post

Hello, I haven't messaged up here in a while.. Nice seeing some names here that I use to see still messaging.. : 0) I have a panny 500u and recently painted my screen in a gray screen flat.. I have a friend that bought a screen from his bossman that is already painted a shade of grey.. But does not know the color name, nor does the bossman remember the color of it..After much testing different colors of grey, I had come to the conclusion that a close shade of grey can easily be fixed as far as for RGB yield..It would appear that the true consideration comes with the depth of the color itself..How dark or light a grey do I really want?My friend lives a little ways away from me and being he has a 300u, we used my 500u to play games on..Gears of war and call of duty 3. on the xbox 360 .They looked awesome on his screen.. Measured 9X5 feet. I built basically the same screen size but had no color comparisons to go against his screen color..Other than the game play viewing itself..So I implemented many different colors of grey testing..With great contrast and daylight friendly as possible while not loosing my whites any more than I could help it..Though the results of my screen color are ok.. I was wondering if there were any new colors here and maybe combination of methods that have really overshown the results that I had drown from here 6 months ago... And still honestly, gray screen or colors close to that shade doesn't come close to the contrast in color that I saw at his house on his screen..Going much darker gray is iffy when you think of a 500u..1280X1024 is great, 1300:1 contrast holds it's own..But the low lummens is really what holds me back from trying darker though.. Just curious as to what people here may think.. Shawn


Shawn
The originator of this thread has moved on and the mix and mix rates you require may or may not still be on the forum.

I hope to replace that information early next week maybe in a new thread.

The methodology you seek for finding the shade of gray you are trying to get to can be found in a thread linked below in my signature along with my thoughts on all this gray stuff and what projectors are best suited to grays.

Click the link below to read more its labeled screen paint.


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post #367 of 380 Old 08-23-2007, 08:10 AM
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Bumping this back to the front page...

These formulas still work great! I'm painting an -06 this weekend to take my -03 black level deeper to work with a little ambient light.
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post #368 of 380 Old 08-26-2007, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post

Shawn
The originator of this thread has moved on and the mix and mix rates you require may or may not still be on the forum.

I hope to replace that information early next week maybe in a new thread.

The methodology you seek for finding the shade of gray you are trying to get to can be found in a thread linked below in my signature along with my thoughts on all this gray stuff and what projectors are best suited to grays.

Click the link below to read more its labeled screen paint.

I have everything from the original posts and have posted it a few months ago but a moderator removed it.
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post #369 of 380 Old 08-27-2007, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KristiSwallow View Post

I have everything from the original posts and have posted it a few months ago but a moderator removed it.


It looks like everything you need to know about the FN formulas are at the beginning of this thread. What's missing? Now the original author says a new name for the formulas and a new thread is going to start soon.
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post #370 of 380 Old 04-20-2008, 08:56 PM
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Just wanted to chime in quick.. I've been researching/reading the last couple days and decided to use the Sherwin Williams Gray Screen-- SW 7071. I had been using an off-white (towards tan/yellow tint) wall for a couple years, but always wondered about changing me wall color to bright white. The idea of using grey, even a light grey, seemed strange to me, but what the heck, if it doesnt work, I'd just paint over it...

I find the change REMARKABLE and even my wife was able to see the benefit of the new paint. The darker color contrasts are the biggest change, much improved, as is the overall color sharpness. Whites have not suffered at all, and still look "white."

For anyone interested in getting 80% "there" without all of the effort, just go buy the Sherwin Williams Gray Screen and paint your wall. I wish I'd done this years ago.

I am using a JVC HD Dila projector, low lumens, high contrast ratio projector and project a 120" image.
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post #371 of 380 Old 04-20-2008, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Subw00er View Post

Just wanted to chime in quick.. I've been researching/reading the last couple days and decided to use the Sherwin Williams Gray Screen-- SW 7071. I had been using an off-white (towards tan/yellow tint) wall for a couple years, but always wondered about changing me wall color to bright white. The idea of using grey, even a light grey, seemed strange to me, but what the heck, if it doesnt work, I'd just paint over it...

I find the change REMARKABLE and even my wife was able to see the benefit of the new paint. The darker color contrasts are the biggest change, much improved, as is the overall color sharpness. Whites have not suffered at all, and still look "white."

For anyone interested in getting 80% "there" without all of the effort, just go buy the Sherwin Williams Gray Screen and paint your wall. I wish I'd done this years ago.

I am using a JVC HD Dila projector, low lumens, high contrast ratio projector and project a 120" image.

Could you describe the finish? Is it really flat? Or does it have a very low luster sheen?

I assume you must have quite a bit left over since you can only buy it in gallon cans. Is that correct?

Would you be interested in making it even better?

Have you done a brightness & contrast calibration?

Addendum:

If the paint is quite flat or matte and you have lots left over, which you should, then get a quart of Minwax Clear Satin Polycrylic. You can then do incremental top coats of GS + Satin Poly (SP). At some point you will get hot spotting. Then you back off to the last mix ratio. This is a technique for dialing in the best sheen for your situation that was pioneered by bud16415.

I would start with a 4:1 GS:SP, followed by 3:1 and 2:1. I'm pretty sure 4:1 won't hot spot and 2:1 probably will. 3:1 I'm not sure about. Keep in mind that you will need to mix up 12 to 16 oz. for a coat on a 120" screen. Once you determine the best mix ratio for your setup then I would recommend applying a second coat just to be sure there is uniform coverage over the entire screen surface.

You will also notice that the polyurethane smooths the paint out and makes it level extremely well. If you decide to try this then maybe you should start a thread on using SW Gray Screen and fine tuning it with satin polyurethane.

The other thing that you could do is consider sanding the screen down smooth and then use the two roller technique to get a glass smooth screen surface. Here is a brief video demonstrating how to take advantage of the benefits of a fuzzy roller to get the paint applied and a foam roller to smooth the paint out.



Then you would be 90% of the way there.


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post #372 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

I assume you must have quite a bit left over since you can only buy it in gallon cans. Is that correct?

I live in Central PA and was able to purchase Gray Screen by the quart.
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post #373 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I live in Central PA and was able to purchase Gray Screen by the quart.

Wbassett had to buy a gallon way back when he first gave it a try. I guess that was just his particular Sherwin Williams store then.


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post #374 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 08:50 AM
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At the time the Duration matte finish only came in a gallon size but they did say they might start selling it in quarts sometime down the road.

Another option is to get it made at Lowes in the Valspar Signature Series Matte finish, and yes you can get that by the quart and Lowes can call up SW GS right in their computer and match the color.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #375 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

At the time the Duration matte finish only came in a gallon size but they did say they might start selling it in quarts sometime down the road.

Another option is to get it made at Lowes in the Valspar Signature Series Matte finish, and yes you can get that by the quart and Lowes can call up SW GS right in their computer and match the color.

What advantage does the Valspar Signature Series Matte have over the Valspar Ultra Premium Flat Enamel?


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post #376 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 11:21 AM
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They both are very nice paints, but the Signature Series is a better paint and it rolls better and smoother with even less chances of roller marks.

It comes in a matte finish and as we know commercial screens all have a matte finish, so that's my personal preference is all. Seeing that you can get a quart and don't have to spend $42 for a gallon of the Duration Matte, it shouldn't be that big of a deal for most people. If I recall it's around $13 or so for a quart.

It's also a little more durable than the flat finish, even though enamel flat is more durable than a plain jane flat paint. I don't know if they still have the sale going on right now, but they were selling the Signature Series for $5 off, which took it down to $18 for a gallon.

I picked up a couple gallons as well as another gallon of Black Jack awhile back. It's all sitting here doing nothing though because I'm pretty much out of all of this now.

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post #377 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

I picked up a couple gallons as well as another gallon of Black Jack awhile back. It's all sitting here doing nothing though because I'm pretty much out of all of this now.

Has something more interesting captured your attention?


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post #378 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 11:40 AM
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not really

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein
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post #379 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Just run it's course?


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post #380 of 380 Old 04-21-2008, 01:44 PM
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Yes, the finish is just a normal matte. Its not shiny like gloss. I dont feel the need to make it any brighter. My projector is bright enough - I usually watch with a light on low in the rear of the room to make it easier on the eyes. I would just descirbe it as a normal matte color. I bought a gallon because I wanted to paint two walls with it for a more artsy look to the room. I have a fairly large room at 25'x18' with vaulted ceilings, so I had quite an area to cover. I project on the 25' side. I put a single thick coat on and the gallon is just over half gone. Unlike some others, I actually really like the grey color on the walls, so does the wife. I would describe it as a blue-grey, not green.

I only buy sherwin williams paint, so I was really happy to see that their grey was well reviewed. Its a great mix, and close to their superpaint (my favorite). It will shrink a bit and allow blank areas to show, so expect to do a second coat after its fully dry, or go over the bare areas with a brush. If you really glop it on with a 1/2" nap, you can get away with one coat at the negative of a slightly bumpier surface. I used a 1/4" nap mini roller and did 1/2 overlapping stripes for an even surface on the area the projector would project onto - did I need to, probably not, I cant even see a 2" drip of paint that was on the wall from the previous owner that is almost dead center on my image, so I doubt rippley paint will affect the picture much, if at all.

I have very few blank areas after this one coat. I'll probably just touch up with a brush tomorrow and call it done. I'm all about low effort and frankly, even with my offwhite wall underneath, even when looking for them, I cant see the bare spots from my seating position, especially when the projector is on, so even if I didnt do a second coat, it still looks great. Its really easy to get anal about this stuff, but my time is precious, so I am fine with that 80% "there." The screen is good enough for me now to not want to do anything further.

I know people can mix the paint with other forumlas, but I just not that "into" it. I just want a quick solution that looks great, and I can definitely recommend this quick coat of grey screen for anyone using a white or near white wall, it DOES make a difference. Oh, and I am surpirsed people complain about the price. You've spent thousands on your gear, and you cant spend $30 more to make it look good?! Anyway, I'm really happy with it.

I added some pics to this link below. Note that my camera seemed to make everything much brighter than it appears on the wall. Sorry for the blurryness. I dont know if it was my camera, or the pause auction on my equipment not being that great. Colors are also a bit off, but you get the idea:
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