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post #451 of 733 Old 09-04-2009, 03:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob47v View Post

I must say WOW,WOW I built this screen for my Sony hw10 and it makes the pics jump out atcha. Truly a wonderful screen I highly recommend, and no hot spotting to note. I did do one different thing tho I made mine out of canvas instead of sheet rock. I went that route cause I do things on my own pretty much and the gysup board was to heavy to take up the stairs. And the screen is 120". Anyway colors are vibriant and 3D like. Thanks for this thread!!!!!!

It's suppose to do that. Enjoy!
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post #452 of 733 Old 09-30-2009, 08:01 AM
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I did my first (and only) 120" screen with S-I-L-V-E-R about two years ago. My mix used the Delta Ceramcoat SM and I sprayed it with the Wagner...basically did everything by the book. The problem was my noob spraying technique. I ended up with stripes most likely due to overlapping too much. But, the picture still looked good and I lived with it. I'm in the market for a new 1080p projector and figured that I might as well fix/re-do the screen. I also now have a much better quality compressor fed hvlp sprayer.

Can I just make a new batch of S-I-L-V-E-R and just start spraying additional coats on my existing screen to get rid of the stripes or do I need to spray Kilz2 over it and start all over with the S-I-L-V-E-R mix? While I would love to not have to start all over, I originally sprayed about 12-15 coats and am concerned about putting too much S-I-L-V-E-R on as I've read you can ruin it with too much mix as well a too little.

Thanks in advance.
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post #453 of 733 Old 09-30-2009, 08:05 AM
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if the surface is smooth (no high spots from previous spraying) i'd plan on doing a light sanding of the entire surface and then start over with a Kilz basecoat. You definitely want to start the process from scratch.
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post #454 of 733 Old 10-01-2009, 04:38 AM
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That is some good sage advice from Anthrassat1.8t, so follow it.

Absolutely sand down the surface until it is "Baby Butt Smooth", Sptay on 3 coats of diluted Kilz-2, and then spray on the S-I-L-V-E-R again, this time using the proper speed and distance. Overlapping too much doesn't produce a "stripey" appearance, applying too much paint too closely does.

This time around just be sure to get some current advice on spray technique and you'll be "Mo Happy" that you ever were.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #455 of 733 Old 10-01-2009, 09:10 PM
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Not to be lazy, i've spent about 2 hours reading it through. There is just so much different information.

Can someone help write up a tutorial, step by step on how to make this?

I've gathered thus:

Thrifty White Hardboard
Mix: behr white faux glaze and 4 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Silver Metallic from Michael's Arts & Crafts

then put 7 dust coats? what is considered a dust coat?

If i'm using the wagner and the solution is thinned, approx how far should the gun be and % of strength of gun trigger?

Do I need Kilhz?
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post #456 of 733 Old 10-01-2009, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyhigh123 View Post

Not to be lazy, i've spent about 2 hours reading it through. There is just so much different information.

Can someone help write up a tutorial, step by step on how to make this?

I've gathered thus:

Thrifty White Hardboard
Mix: behr white faux glaze and 4 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Silver Metallic from Michael's Arts & Crafts

then put 7 dust coats? what is considered a dust coat?

If i'm using the wagner and the solution is thinned, approx how far should the gun be and % of strength of gun trigger?

Do I need Kilhz?

With those questions I have to wonder about what you actually read...or in the least your retention level.

Click on my Handle.....then do a search of "All Threads Started by MississippiMan" in the "Statistics" link in my profile.

'Cmon...DIY a little bit more....your retention and understanding level will be better if ya do.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #457 of 733 Old 11-05-2009, 05:39 PM - Thread Starter
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To the rescue.

As you may notice I have been away for awhile.
Anyway...it's critical to let the screen 'dry' between duster coats. It's time consuming...but that's why we have beer.

Yes, give it a fresh substraight. CMRA

Quote:
Originally Posted by msg73 View Post

I did my first (and only) 120" screen with S-I-L-V-E-R about two years ago. My mix used the Delta Ceramcoat SM and I sprayed it with the Wagner...basically did everything by the book. The problem was my noob spraying technique. I ended up with stripes most likely due to overlapping too much. But, the picture still looked good and I lived with it. I'm in the market for a new 1080p projector and figured that I might as well fix/re-do the screen. I also now have a much better quality compressor fed hvlp sprayer.

Can I just make a new batch of S-I-L-V-E-R and just start spraying additional coats on my existing screen to get rid of the stripes or do I need to spray Kilz2 over it and start all over with the S-I-L-V-E-R mix? While I would love to not have to start all over, I originally sprayed about 12-15 coats and am concerned about putting too much S-I-L-V-E-R on as I've read you can ruin it with too much mix as well a too little.

Thanks in advance.

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post #458 of 733 Old 11-06-2009, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMRA View Post

To the rescue.

Remind me not to go get myself in trouble when your the Lifeguard. In the 1+ month it took ya to submit an answer, I could of floated down to Chile.

Quote:


As you may notice I have been away for awhile.

What? No kidding? Damnable S-I-L-V-E-R screen of yours has made you all too elitist, and too busy watchin' the thing to bother with mere DIY'er who won't listen to reason....right?

Quote:


Anyway...it's critical to let the screen 'dry' between duster coats. It's time consuming...but that's why we have beer.

Dry paint on the wall....wet carpet in the corner.

Quote:


Yes, give it a fresh substraight. CMRA

Is the wrong "substraight" to be considered a "sub-crooked"?

substrate

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #459 of 733 Old 11-13-2009, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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"Is the wrong "substraight" to be considered a "sub-crooked"?

substrate

My bad. Sorry.
Then again, 'crooks' like watching movies too, don't they?
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post #460 of 733 Old 09-23-2010, 11:28 PM - Thread Starter
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MM shared an interesting tidbit over the tele the other day. Those in the know know he's been across the pond setting up 3D screens. I'll be picking his brain a bit to see if S-I-L-V-E-R is ready for a makeover. Details forthcoming. CMRA
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post #461 of 733 Old 10-15-2010, 05:12 PM
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I'm not sure why I didn't post to this thread when I was working on my screen a few months ago, but I figured I'd post my experience with it. I actually started another thread and included my results there. Here's the link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1258355


I haven't taken any screenshots since then, but trust me, the screen hasn't changed! The picture quality is just magical.

--Drew


My basement theater build thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1243820

Started: 2/20/10
Completed: 10/10/10
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post #462 of 733 Old 10-16-2010, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew_V View Post

I'm not sure why I didn't post to this thread when I was working on my screen a few months ago, but I figured I'd post my experience with it. I actually started another thread and included my results there. Here's the link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1258355


I haven't taken any screenshots since then, but trust me, the screen hasn't changed! The picture quality is just magical.

Having followed your progress closely and observed the care and thought you put into each specific step, I can heartily commend your effort as well as applaud your results. A S-I-L-V-E-R Screen can be (IS) an amazing piece of work once completed.

Congrats! And BTW...CMRA & I completely understand why you haven't posted again since the last time. Tearing one's self away from that kind of image isn't just hard, it's almost impossible since you find yourself going back a re-watching many favorite Movies.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #463 of 733 Old 11-19-2010, 03:23 PM
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I'm going to take a stab at a S-I-L-V-E-R screen on Thrifty White Hardboard a la this thread this weekend. It's for an old Panasonic AE900U I'm inheriting. I have the Behr glaze, the Delta SM and a Wagner double duty sprayer. I'm a newbie but determined. Anyone want to talk me out of it?

Also, anyone know what the verdict was on whether you need to do a coat of Kilz2 on the thrifty white hardboard or if you can start off with only a duster coat of S-I-L-V-E-R? I didn't see an answer in the old thread.

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post #464 of 733 Old 11-19-2010, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apot View Post

I'm going to take a stab at a S-I-L-V-E-R screen on Thrifty White Hardboard a la this thread this weekend. It's for an old Panasonic AE900U I'm inheriting. I have the Behr glaze, the Delta SM and a Wagner double duty sprayer. I'm a newbie but determined. Anyone want to talk me out of it?

Also, anyone know what the verdict was on whether you need to do a coat of Kilz2 on the thrifty white hardboard or if you can start off with only a duster coat of S-I-L-V-E-R? I didn't see an answer in the old thread.

No. I've done it both ways. A well applied Duster (2 actually) left to dry before proceeding to paint heavier coats works just fine. You just cannot rush things by applying too much of such a thin paint too heavily.

Not only that, the Wagner DD will shoot out a prodigious amount of paint, so try to see how well the DD's paint pattern is using only 1/3rd as much Water.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #465 of 733 Old 11-19-2010, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

No. I've done it both ways. A well applied Duster (2 actually) left to dry before proceeding to paint heavier coats works just fine. You just cannot rush things by applying too much of such a thin paint too heavily.

Not only that, the Wagner DD will shoot out a prodigious amount of paint, so try to see how well the DD's paint pattern is using only 1/3rd as much Water.

Thanks!

So here's my Wagner DD friendly mix:

1/2 gallon Behr Faux Glaze
4 Oz Delta Silver Metallic
8 Oz. Filtered Tap water

Squirrel cage mixed and stocking filtered
7 duster coats at 12-14" distance and 2-3 ft/sec speed. Dry completely between coats.

I'm skeptical about my ability to maintain constant distance and speed, but I really want to give this a shot.

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post #466 of 733 Old 11-20-2010, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apot View Post

Thanks!

So here's my Wagner DD friendly mix:

1/2 gallon Behr Faux Glaze
4 Oz Delta Silver Metallic
8 Oz. Filtered Tap water

Squirrel cage mixed and stocking filtered
7 duster coats at 12-14" distance and 2-3 ft/sec speed. Dry completely between coats.

I'm skeptical about my ability to maintain co
stant distance and speed, but I really want to give this a shot.


Well, in actuality, painting S-I-L-V-E-R is among the easiest to do, it's just that you have to apply so many light coats.

The speed you move at is maintained easier than if you have to instead go much more slowly, and at a more measured pace. Maintaining Distance & Overlap is still critical, however if your moving quickly, those elements are also easier.

The paramount thing to remember is there is NO GOING BACK OVER A WEAK AREA!!!! You wait until the next coat and let that fill in. If by chance one of the Kids fall down the stairs, or the Wife sez the Dog is chasing the neighbor's Cat and you have to stop, you let the work dry "as is" and then "feather in" you restart. Feathering can also be used to even out a gross miscue between Rows where you dipped below the Overlap line.

Feathering involves turning the Gun to right angles to the Screen, starting it up, and then twisting it inward so that the Spray contacts the surface just at the edge of the needful area, and your moving across the surface at that point as well. You cannot point the Gun directly at the surface in the middle of the board/wall or you WILL get a much heavier "spot" or sometimes an initial "splatter" as the gun starts up.

Such is why one always starts each new application of the Rows at least 6" - 8" off the Screen area, and goes past the other far edge before dropping down the 1/3 Row height of Overlap and starting back across.

Absolutely, practice is essential to assure one's self of nailing down a perfect S-I-L-V-E-R. If you make up the Mix as listed, you've got plenty to spare so wasting is not an issue.

Remember that the first 2-3 coats will dry fairly fast (30 min - 45 min - 1 hr respectfully) but after that, the underlying coats will tend to retain the moisture longer and take longer to dry. ALWAYS wait at least 1 hour between coats past the 3rd coating The longer the better, and all the more reason to but a significant amount of Beer.

Avoid Tequila though. Last time I tried that.....well I'm not gonna go there again.

A few last tips.
  • If you see the Wet Sheen of later coats go "Flat" in appearance and you can touch the surface without leaving a smudge, you can then place a Box fan centered to the surface and 8' away and put it on medium speed to hasten dry times...or better still, get the surface even dryer while waiting the entire prescribed length.
  • If at any time during-after painting a coat you see a Hair, Bug, or Dust Bunny, DO NOT try to remove it. That is when you let the screen dry a long time...overnight if possible, then you can pluck the offending object right off.
  • Wear clean, lint free clothes. A Cap is also a good idea. Sweep the area clean. Turn the AC off...of course.
  • If the budget can allow such, after you wait for the Sheen to go away, and start using the Fan (or not) turn on the Heat in the Room or use a Heater to raise the Rooms temp to 85 degrees.
  • In fact, if you do the Heat Thing first, and maintain that temp as close as you can (...remembering to turn off the heat / heater while spraying...) every coat's dry time will be accelerated.

These are items one learns by doing things over a period of time. They are intended to allow you/others to do things more quickly and with a greater assurance of success. Myself, every attempt is deemed critical when doing such for a Client. For fellow DIY'ers it should also be deemed just as critical because I dread seeing posts about issues cropping up.

That there have been so very few such postings by those who read, digest, and follow instructions, and the few who avail themselves of my standing offer to talk in person if a 23rd hour question or issue arises, that all goes to show that as DIY'ers we must depend upon others to help make our projects obtain a level and standard of quality and performance that far exceeds expectations.

DIY does not have to mean DIY-all alone.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #467 of 733 Old 11-20-2010, 10:07 AM
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I really appreciate the advise! This forum (and AVS in general) is such a fantastic resource. If anything, it's almost too expansive. You need to pay attention to make sure you're getting the most recent "best practices".

I chose S-I-L-V-E-R because it seemed like the most bang for the buck in terms of complexity vs performance. And the *TWH for the same reason.

Unfortunately it's raining like crazy today (in Southern California, no less). Should I wait to start the screen on a lower humidity day? Last week was so dry, I should have started then.

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post #468 of 733 Old 11-21-2010, 04:43 AM
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Definitely wait for lower humidity. High humidity can increase drying times 4x, and also make paint tend to run easier due to the lack of being able to dry fast enough to tack onto a surface.

Are you spraying in a Garage? You can always up the Heat to 85 degrees in that room with a Space heater. That will dry things out and accelerate dry times. Just don't run it while spraying.

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post #469 of 733 Old 11-24-2010, 07:01 AM
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How much more "pop", "wow", "wholly s**t" will I get with a correctly painted Silver screen in a light controlled room? Screen will be a 16x9, 130" to 138", projector is Panasonic FPJ1. I'm torn between the video advantage vs. audio advantage. I was very excited to finally have speakers placed properly....untill I started reading about S-I-L-V-E-R
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post #470 of 733 Old 11-24-2010, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelscott73 View Post
How much more "pop", "wow", "wholly s**t" will I get with a correctly painted Silver screen in a light controlled room? Screen will be a 16x9, 130" to 138", projector is Panasonic FPJ1. I'm torn between the video advantage vs. audio advantage. I was very excited to finally have speakers placed properly....untill I started reading about S-I-L-V-E-R
Hi,

The only good news I can offer is that the amount of image "pizazz" will be easily 2x+ that of the AT Center Stage. One gives up considerable to obtain "behind the Screen" speaker placement, excepting the most expensive AT screens on the market....and even then, in the larger sizes there are issues to deal with.

As someone who designs A/V systems, I can state that the Video aspect of the system takes more precedent over audio when the screen size zooms out beyond 8-9' diagonal. Big ain't so good iffin it's "big ugly". It would be a very loooooong stretch though to consider any image the Pioneer FPJ1 (...it's NOT a "Panny"...) puts up as being "ugh", but it would be a shame if it could not be all it could be. The CS Screen will do nothing if not attenuate the light output "off Screen", and that would mean a significant drop in PoP-PoW-SizzlE-& SatisfactioN.

You can go into this knowing that many have gone there before over the last several years any so far I have not encountered anyone as being dissatisfied. The unique aspects of S-I-L-V-E-R and it's combination of High Gain w/High Contrast make it ideal for situations exactly like yours.

Not only that, but you'll have plenty of support should you need it. And do NOT be reluctant to ask.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #471 of 733 Old 11-24-2010, 09:46 AM
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points well taken....and considering I've spent $500 on a pair of interconnects job well done by you.
Thanks
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post #472 of 733 Old 11-25-2010, 05:45 AM
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points well taken....and considering I've spent $500 on a pair of interconnects job well done by you.
Thanks

Cool beans...., but what are "interconnects"?

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post #473 of 733 Old 11-25-2010, 06:26 AM
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RCA Cables
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post #474 of 733 Old 11-25-2010, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelscott73 View Post

RCA Cables

Oww. Well at least a good choice in a DIY screen won't fail under your obvious desire to have the best.

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post #475 of 733 Old 11-26-2010, 09:53 PM
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After reading all this information on applying SILVER I have one quick question, should my UPW paint be a flat finish or semi-gloss? Currently i have a white flat finish but want to make sure before i go ahead and start applying the SILVER mix.
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post #476 of 733 Old 11-27-2010, 01:33 AM
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After reading all this information on applying SILVER I have one quick question, should my UPW paint be a flat finish or semi-gloss? Currently i have a white flat finish but want to make sure before i go ahead and start applying the SILVER mix.

Flat is where it's at.

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post #477 of 733 Old 11-27-2010, 11:27 PM
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Thank You for clarifying that MM. I do gotta say your the shiznit for answering everyone's questions and you rock!
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post #478 of 733 Old 11-27-2010, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sjovanov View Post

Thank You for clarifying that MM. I do gotta say your the shiznit for answering everyone's questions and you rock!

Thank you very much.....!

What's a shiznit

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post #479 of 733 Old 11-27-2010, 11:50 PM
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LOL i just another way of saying "you are the SH!T" but keeping the site family friendly.
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post #480 of 733 Old 11-27-2010, 11:59 PM
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Here are a few shots of my screen under going the flat white treatment and a screen shot of Twilight. Still waiting for my paint supplies to show up in the mail for SILVER. So for now just watching some movies on it and once completly painted it will receive the velvet borders.
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