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post #541 of 763 Old 06-04-2011, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Hi Drew,

Timing is everything. Screen-wise, let 'em watch it...examine it...even touch it. Let their praises flow....first. Then lower the Boom and tell them it's DIY. YOUR special DIY that performs better than Screens costing $1000s.

Then, when they ask, "But it's just plain Drywall?" you can say..."No. It's S-I-L-V-ER !

...though I'm at a loss to tell you how to speak in Hyphens (-) ;D

No...you left one out. ..."No. It's S-I-L-V-ER !

Anyway, AVS' newer policy forces me to post. How else are folks here gonna know about this excellent solution? As I recall there are rules against redundant threads also.

S-I-L-V-E-R, back and in fine fashion.
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post #542 of 763 Old 06-01-2012, 09:29 AM
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So, sorry to bring this thread up (again), but I am looking to do a new screen for my new dedicated theater in my new house. I tried S-I-L-V-E-R before at my old house in my makeshift living room theater, but now its time for bigger and better, and also looking to go 3D. I searched this thread (some scanning, and also using the search function), but I have not seen mention of this paint mixture being good for 3D pictures. FWIW I am looking at a few different projectors at the moment, but still undecided. Leaning more towards the Optoma HD33 or HD3300 at the moment. Screen will be 135" 16:9. Any help or input about using this for 3D material would be greatly appreciated.
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post #543 of 763 Old 06-01-2012, 09:20 PM
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DITTO Above,

Is this a good High Gain screen for 3D and does MississippiMan have a tweaked 3D formula of this mix to get higher brightness & gain for 3D use ?
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post #544 of 763 Old 06-01-2012, 10:54 PM
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S-I-L-V-E-R is good for Active 3....as is RS-MaxxMudd LL
I'd use the latter myself unless my PJ had so-so contrast specs. S-I-L-V-E-R's high mettalic content at the surface really makes colors POP, and Blacks get obsidian-like. But it can have more noticeable "specularity". (graininess )

If you going to sit close (3D'ers tend to do so...) or your Eagle Eyed and sensitive to such things...RS-MaxxMudd LL is the better choice.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #545 of 763 Old 06-02-2012, 05:19 AM
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Thanks for the recommendation MM. Much appreciated!
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post #546 of 763 Old 06-02-2012, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevychad View Post

Thanks for the recommendation MM. Much appreciated!

Sawrite .

So which application do you think you're inclined to go with?

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #547 of 763 Old 06-02-2012, 07:18 AM
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Oh, sorry, I guess you made mention of both S-I-L-V-E-R and the RS-maxxmudd LL. It seemed to me the better decision based on your advise would be the MaxxMudd LL.

I have complete light control over my room, and my primary seating position is 10' from the screen. So roughly 1.0 x the screen width. My understanding is that is considered "close". Assuming the pj i do get is the optoma HD33 or HD3300, is that the paint application you would go with? Thank you, very much, once again sir!
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post #548 of 763 Old 06-02-2012, 09:53 AM
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Hey...I just realized that today I do not believe anybody... myself included... has painted a S-I-L-V-E-R Screen using the liquitex brand of silver metallic paint. That type of state has the smallest metallic particles of them all so any craziness may have been substantially reduced

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post #549 of 763 Old 06-02-2012, 10:22 AM
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I used 12 oz of liquitex basics silver mixed with 12 oz rustoleum accents white pearl so I guess my screen is half that :P
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post #550 of 763 Old 06-03-2012, 03:16 AM
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MM "S-I-L-V-E-R is good for Active 3....as is RS-MaxxMudd LL"

Which do you feel would be higher gain ?
You said S-I-L-V-E-R would have the blacker blacks. Would S-I-L-V-E-R also have the whiter whites, or would the white advantage goto MaxxMudd LL ?
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post #551 of 763 Old 06-03-2012, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The big picture View Post

MM "S-I-L-V-E-R is good for Active 3....as is RS-MaxxMudd LL"

Which do you feel would be higher gain ?
You said S-I-L-V-E-R would have the blacker blacks. Would S-I-L-V-E-R also have the whiter whites, or would the white advantage go to MaxxMudd LL ?

Pretty much a Toss Up.

I've used S-I-L-V-E-R primarily for really large screens, where I needed to optimize every available Lumen. And usually, when the PJ itself also had to be mounted very far way...almost at the rear edge of it's Throw Distance.

In both cases, the normally located seating distances usually mitigated most concerns about Graininess. Which BTW isn't very bad with a properly applied S-I-L-V-E-R, it's just noticeable under the worst case scenarios of panning clear skies and very light pastels....and from distances closer than 1.2:1

S-I-L-V-E-R done right absolutely has the higher gain. Rs-MaxxMudd LL offers substantial Gain but a more friendly approach that can allow one to Roll it on if necessary. S-I-L-V-E-R is NOT a roll-able option.

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post #552 of 763 Old 06-04-2012, 10:32 AM
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MM
Can S-I-L-V-E-R or Rs-MaxxMudd LL be applied to Sintra?
I have an Epson 1080ub (will get the 5010 down the road) but know I'm not skilled enough to create a flat drywall substrate (like I've seen you create in other threads)
The seating distance will be about 14-15' and screen size 2.39:1 and 160ish" diagonal (Sintra would constrain me to 5'x12')
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post #553 of 763 Old 06-04-2012, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syyid View Post

MM
Can S-I-L-V-E-R or Rs-MaxxMudd LL be applied to Sintra?
I have an Epson 1080ub (will get the 5010 down the road) but know I'm not skilled enough to create a flat drywall substrate (like I've seen you create in other threads)
The seating distance will be about 14-15' and screen size 2.39:1 and 160ish" diagonal (Sintra would constrain me to 5'x12')

99% of all the Screens I have personally done using both those Screen applications have been on Sintra. Directly. No Primer necessary.

That is because the initial Duster coats, as they dry out, create all the "Priming" needed. Priming any such smooth, bright White Board material like Sintra/ Gator Board / Thrifty White Hardboard / Laminates is really only ever necessary if the surface needing to receive the Screen paint is marred or stained in some manner. Or needs obvious repair.

Otherwise, if it's smooth, a bright...even Glossy White, and pristine and clean, spray away!

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #554 of 763 Old 01-18-2013, 05:14 PM
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What is the up to date formula for S-I-L-V-E-R. Which paints do we have to buy??
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post #555 of 763 Old 01-18-2013, 05:16 PM
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oh and how much water do you need to use for the "No Name" paint sprayer???
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post #556 of 763 Old 01-18-2013, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

What is the up to date formula for S-I-L-V-E-R. Which paints do we have to buy??

1 Gallon Behr Faux Glaze
8 Oz Liquitex Basics Silver Metallic (Jar preferred)
http://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Basics-Acrylics-Colors-silver/dp/B002643NXY
16 oz distilled water (to start)

Mix into 2 gallon Bucket w/Lid
Use the Squirrel Cage Mixer (best price... and Free "A-Prime" delivery)
http://www.amazon.com/Homax-69011-1-Gallon-PolyPro-Galvanized/dp/B000ELORFE

Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

oh and how much water do you need to use for the "No Name" paint sprayer???

After mixing and straining, a test using the Gun determines how much if any more water is required. Also, the size Needle Tip. Using a 2.0 Tip that comes with the Graco, you must absolutely practice quick, rapid Dusters from a specific distance. With a 1.5 mm tip, things are a bit more refined. Dusters are still the order at hand, but the method of applying becomes less frenetic.

Do you have this?
http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Graco-HV2900-Paint-Station/dp/B005QQ0AFS/ref=pd_cart_recs3

Then take my very best advice and get this accessory 1.5 mm Needle Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BG6DIM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NWLOWWF5G7JX

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #557 of 763 Old 01-18-2013, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

1 Gallon Behr Faux Glaze
8 Oz Liquitex Basics Silver Metallic (Jar preferred)
http://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Basics-Acrylics-Colors-silver/dp/B002643NXY
16 oz distilled water (to start)

Mix into 2 gallon Bucket w/Lid
Use the Squirrel Cage Mixer (best price... and Free "A-Prime" delivery)
http://www.amazon.com/Homax-69011-1-Gallon-PolyPro-Galvanized/dp/B000ELORFE
After mixing and straining, a test using the Gun determines how much if any more water is required. Also, the size Needle Tip. Using a 2.0 Tip that comes with the Graco, you must absolutely practice quick, rapid Dusters from a specific distance. With a 1.5 mm tip, things are a bit more refined. Dusters are still the order at hand, but the method of applying becomes less frenetic.

Do you have this?
http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Graco-HV2900-Paint-Station/dp/B005QQ0AFS/ref=pd_cart_recs3

Then take my very best advice and get this accessory 1.5 mm Needle Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BG6DIM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NWLOWWF5G7JX

I have the "No name" aka Graco 3900, not the 2900 in the pic above and the Tip that came with the 3900. I also have that VERY same squirrel mix bought from Amazon. My screen size is 80 inches so I'm guessing i don't need a full gallon set up????
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post #558 of 763 Old 01-18-2013, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

I have the "No name" aka Graco 3900, not the 2900 in the pic above and the Tip that came with the 3900. I also have that VERY same squirrel mix bought from Amazon. My screen size is 80 inches so I'm guessing i don't need a full gallon set up????

This is wierd. This is the website I bought my gun from:

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

But mine says 3900 on the turbine not 2900. I bought it a while back after posting about this cheap price on these forums.
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post #559 of 763 Old 01-19-2013, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

This is wierd. This is the website I bought my gun from:

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

But mine says 3900 on the turbine not 2900. I bought it a while back after posting about this cheap price on these forums.

Not weird....lucky.

A few souls have gotten refurbed 3900s when there were no 2900s were available. The Vendor makes no distinction between the two under those circumstances.

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post #560 of 763 Old 01-19-2013, 05:31 PM
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What's the diff between the 2900 and the 3900??? Something else I'm curious about. I still have some left overs of the silver fire colorant mix. Could I add some to the S-I-L-V-E-R to give it some extra kick or would that mix with the recipe to much. If so how much should i add??
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post #561 of 763 Old 01-20-2013, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

What's the diff between the 2900 and the 3900???

When purchased new, the 3900 came with a "Back Pack" Tank for holding a full Gallon of paint, and the Handle of the Spray Gun has a large Thumb Wheel that can control the amount of air pressure. That's the extent of the differences.

Quote:
Something else I'm curious about. I still have some left overs of the silver fire colorant mix. Could I add some to the S-I-L-V-E-R to give it some extra kick or would that mix with the recipe to much. If so how much should i add??

No...S-I-L-V-E-R and Silver Fire are mutually exclusive applications.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #562 of 763 Old 01-20-2013, 09:39 AM
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MississippiMan, have you ever did a successful white fusion with S-I-L-V-E-R and had the extra kick vs if you would have done it with just a plain white backing that is nongloss?? I'm guessing the only fusion you can do with S-I-L-V-E-R is white fusion since you HAVE to use a white background for this type of paint mixture to begin with.
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post #563 of 763 Old 01-20-2013, 11:40 AM
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S-I-L-V-E-R is a extremely light colored coating. It consists of just 6-8 oz of Silver Metallic added to a full gallon of translucent Matte Glaze.

It has to be built up over 7-8 coated layers, so the dispesion of Silver metallic will all blend together eventually.

Even so, the extra translucency of the completed coating (SF is translucent too...but not as much so as S-I-L-V-E-R ) uses the lighter background as a boost. But if that background has too reflective a surface, it's almost assured that the gloss would create a localized hot spot.

I have to say "almost" because frankly, knowing the principle underlying S-I-L-V-E-R, I have avoided messing around with anything outher than the type / amount of Silver Metallic.

So...let's say your desperately trying to avoid having to do the required Priming. Well, sanding melamine coating is / can be tricky. If you use a fine grit Sanding sponge, and sand the entire area evenly without creating any gouges or scratches, then yes...you could use something like Thrifty White Hardboard.

It boils down to a case of self-experimentation. Usually, people want a solution...something others have themselves shown and proven works. Even then, success in doing a DIY painted screen is measured in 3 parts effort and 1 part good fortune / luck, and it's a primary goal of most of us to advise DIY'ers of the well-proven way to go about it.

That said, there is always a cadre of individuals who suggest, "Why not just try this first / then that, and if you decide you like it, Great! If not, now you know what else you might want to try." rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

I simply cannot adjust my thinking to that....as I see far more who simply want a correct solution out of the veritable "Gate", and who also might run screaming from DIY'ing Screen making altogether if their initial bout rewarded them with poor / mediocre results, or worse, abject failure.

I've seen that happen a few times too. It's like coming upon a twisted Car wreck and the Tow Truck is already pulling it away. Not much can be done to salvage the situation at that point. All the damage is done, and the Ambulance or Hearse is already gone.

So experimentation is not for anyone who is looking for a "Gotta have it NOW!" solution. However , experimentation is also what makes for new discoveries. The other day I heard (again) a quote that said,
Quote:
Most every great discovery came about because the Inventor ignored those who said it was impossible to accomplish...that science or conventional thinking would not allow such.

That sort of "Thinking with Blinders on" continues in some quarters. On this Forum, we run the Horses wholly unfettered.

So iffin' you want to try something new,and you can bear the brunt of potential failure, have at it...and whose to say otherwise that you just might show all the Old Dogs a new trick.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #564 of 763 Old 01-20-2013, 05:33 PM
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It seems like i remember that, in this post, people were using the TWH as a substrate to paint the S-I-L-V-E-R on without having to put down a layer of primer on it first, Just spraying it straight onto the THW as is. Do you have to prime a TWH first with the Kill's primer before you paint the S-I-L-V-E-R on or is it okay just to spray it straight onto the TWH???
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post #565 of 763 Old 01-20-2013, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

S-I-L-V-E-R is a extremely light colored coating. It consists of just 6-8 oz of Silver Metallic added to a full gallon of translucent Matte Glaze.

It has to be built up over 7-8 coated layers, so the dispesion of Silver metallic will all blend together eventually.

Even so, the extra translucency of the completed coating (SF is translucent too...but not as much so as S-I-L-V-E-R ) uses the lighter background as a boost. But if that background has too reflective a surface, it's almost assured that the gloss would create a localized hot spot.

I have to say "almost" because frankly, knowing the principle underlying S-I-L-V-E-R, I have avoided messing around with anything outher than the type / amount of Silver Metallic.

So...let's say your desperately trying to avoid having to do the required Priming. Well, sanding melamine coating is / can be tricky. If you use a fine grit Sanding sponge, and sand the entire area evenly without creating any gouges or scratches, then yes...you could use something like Thrifty White Hardboard.

It boils down to a case of self-experimentation. Usually, people want a solution...something others have themselves shown and proven works. Even then, success in doing a DIY painted screen is measured in 3 parts effort and 1 part good fortune / luck, and it's a primary goal of most of us to advise DIY'ers of the well-proven way to go about it.

That said, there is always a cadre of individuals who suggest, "Why not just try this first / then that, and if you decide you like it, Great! If not, now you know what else you might want to try." rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

I simply cannot adjust my thinking to that....as I see far more who simply want a correct solution out of the veritable "Gate", and who also might run screaming from DIY'ing Screen making altogether if their initial bout rewarded them with poor / mediocre results, or worse, abject failure.

I've seen that happen a few times too. It's like coming upon a twisted Car wreck and the Tow Truck is already pulling it away. Not much can be done to salvage the situation at that point. All the damage is done, and the Ambulance or Hearse is already gone.

So experimentation is not for anyone who is looking for a "Gotta have it NOW!" solution. However , experimentation is also what makes for new discoveries. The other day I heard (again) a quote that said,
That sort of "Thinking with Blinders on" continues in some quarters. On this Forum, we run the Horses wholly unfettered.

So iffin' you want to try something new,and you can bear the brunt of potential failure, have at it...and whose to say otherwise that you just might show all the Old Dogs a new trick.

Okay, I found in this forum where you personally like to paint the S-I-L-V-E-R straight onto the TWH without primer because you said it makes for a Bright White surface. You said you just need to prime it first with very light duster coats of S-I-L-V-E-R then the rest of the duster coating's will adhere good, so it's good to go on that part. I need to read the post completely before i ask a question you've already answered else ware, lol. Thanks for your help. I think S-I-L-V-E-R will work for what i need it for.
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post #566 of 763 Old 02-12-2013, 02:32 AM
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Ok, so I'm probably stirring up a storm here but CMRA or MM, has there been any attempts tinting the s-i-l-v-e-r mix to fight ambient light? Or maby use a grey shade for base coat?

Just wondering as it is such a high gain application it might tolerate a little hue.
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post #567 of 763 Old 02-13-2013, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rengep View Post

Ok, so I'm probably stirring up a storm here but CMRA or MM, has there been any attempts tinting the s-i-l-v-e-r mix to fight ambient light? Or maby use a grey shade for base coat?

Just wondering as it is such a high gain application it might tolerate a little hue.

Actually....no.

Upon completion of the many multiple layers, S-I-L-V-E-R remains somewhat Translucent, and therein is why a bright, Flat white undercoat is preferred. When a light, highly reflective particle is set against a white surface, there is far less of a tendency for that particle to seem omnipresent. As it is, the preponderance of Silver metallic can still result in observable graininess if one sits too closely.

But by using a Bright white undercoat / substrate, this is reduced as far as it can be.

All that said, as you suggested, instead of trying to darken a Mix that depends upon the use of a almost transparent medium (Faux Glaze) it would be better to try to color match the hue of a completed S-I-L-V-E-R and then paint the under laying surface in that shade. Such a subtle darkening should by reason result in a darker overall screen surface, and the matching colors should blend together as well as they possibly can. However, be advised that the Silver will shine more brightly than the Light Gray paint underneath, so there will be a difference that "might" be more noticeable than if a White under coat was in play.

I can see where the experimentation might be a lot of fun.

You do it. biggrin.gif I'm busy. cool.gif

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post #568 of 763 Old 02-14-2013, 06:21 AM
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Thanks MM for your professional thoughts on my amateur ideas to interfere with the s-i-l-v-e-r formula. eek.gif I will get to it when I can free up some time.
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post #569 of 763 Old 02-14-2013, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rengep View Post

Thanks MM for your professional thoughts on my amateur ideas to interfere with the s-i-l-v-e-r formula. eek.gif I will get to it when I can free up some time.

Awww.....don't let my own comments and concerns keep you from any experimenting! Such is the grist for the Mill of DIY'ism. cool.gif

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post #570 of 763 Old 02-14-2013, 01:58 PM
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No worries, to much of a compulsive tinkerer to let this experiment pass. biggrin.gif By the way do you know of any alternative EU brands resembling the Behr faux glaze?
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