CMRA's S-I-L-V-E-R solution starts here: - Page 20 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #571 of 763 Old 02-14-2013, 06:44 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
hey, just to let you guys know. I went to Home Depot this afternoon to buy some Behr Faux Glaze and When Iasked the paint guy where the Faux Glaze was found, he pointed me in the right direction but also proceeded to tell me I'd better buy it quick because apparently Home Depot is going to stop caring as he called it " Fancy Stuff like that". If Lowe's...wait Lowes doesn't do Behr does it?? Well, if Home Depot is going to quit carrying Faux Glaze then it might make it kind of tough, in the future, to do S-I-L-V-E-R without having that available. Not sure how much longer they will have it. I guess until they run out. Glad I bought some tonight.
narhic_fd is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #572 of 763 Old 02-15-2013, 05:09 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
Fancy Stuff, eh? Sounds like you spoke with a rotational Employee whose turn in the Paint Dept. came up.

Those kinds of "Experts" are truly dangerous beings.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #573 of 763 Old 02-15-2013, 06:32 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
unfortunately, the guy i spoke with was one of the main ones who runs the paint department. His comment implied that others besides the Faux Glaze were going to be discontinued as well. Maybe, someone else can make it to their local Home Depot and see how well this pans out.
narhic_fd is offline  
post #574 of 763 Old 02-19-2013, 04:50 AM
Member
 
rengep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Norway, Bergen
Posts: 154
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
MM, ref post 570 do you know if liquitex gesso clear would be a suitable substitute for Behr Faux Glaze? It's hard to find a european acrylic paint that is clear and matte.

Or maby this one: Liquitex matte medium
rengep is offline  
post #575 of 763 Old 02-19-2013, 07:58 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
There are water based Clear Matte Polyurethane Floor coatings available in most areas over there.

But what you really want is a Faux Glaze. Somthing someone would use when making a Decoupage, or for muting a bright color to give it an "Antique" look.

Water based .....Clear....Matte. If you can find anything that matches the criteria above, you shoul be "all good".

Should be.......
rengep likes this.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #576 of 763 Old 02-23-2013, 01:33 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I know you guys call the LIquitex paint needed for S-I-L-V-E-R silver Metallic but when i went to Michaels all they had was just Silver no silver metallic. I'm guessing that's what you mean, right??
narhic_fd is offline  
post #577 of 763 Old 02-23-2013, 02:32 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pb_maxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: chicago
Posts: 2,386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 17
true. it's just silver. 'metallic' does not appear on the tube.
pb_maxxx is offline  
post #578 of 763 Old 03-05-2013, 05:04 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
hey guys, got all my stuff for S-I-L-V-E-R and will be painting it in next couple of weeks but have a question pertaining to the spray gun and dry time and cleaning gun before next coat. I know you have to give quite a bit dry time before each new coat of S-i-L-v-e-r is sprayed but do i need to clean the gun between EACH spray?? I was wondering if i just place the gun inside a closed container between dry times so I don't have to clean the gun 6-8 times, lol. I was wondering if it's in a sealed container then that would keep the paint mixture from dying inside the container so i don't have to go through the hassle of having to empty the paint out of the container back into my main mixture and then having to clean the whole gun out and having to repeat that again, and again. Or, is it just better to get over it and deal with what needs to be done to get a good screen, lol.
narhic_fd is offline  
post #579 of 763 Old 03-06-2013, 03:13 AM
Member
 
rengep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Norway, Bergen
Posts: 154
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Ok I'm not the most experienced user of the gun but I have done about 10 runs with it. I rinsed it with lots of luke warm water from the tap first thing after each run. It takes less than five minutes and keeps the gun clean and in perfect shape. I believe this is one of the best ways to ensure you get the best possible working conditions for each run. This also helps you get the same result on eash run.

Besides, what else are you going to do between each run, watch it dry... wink.gif (I know somebody likes their brew though)

As for the container you could do with a lid but make sure you mix that paint thorrowly before your next run. With two kids in the house I like to empty the container and rinse it because you never know how long their next activity will keep you from your AV tinkering...
rengep is offline  
post #580 of 763 Old 03-06-2013, 06:27 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
narhic_fd,

regnep has is essentially correct, however you can let the Gun sit between the 1st and 2nd -3rd Dusters, as both should be dry enough in 30 minutes time to allow for the following coats.

After that, as the drying times increase because of paint build up, you should follow the sage advice of taking the time to rinse out the Gun. Also, if you have strained out your entire mix into a clean 1 gallon can, then you can/should dump the S-I-L-V-E-R you have left over back into that can and simply re-stir it and re-pour it into the container.

Beyond 45 minutes, simply "swishing" S-I-L-V-E-R around in the Paint Gun's Cup doesn't assure you of evenly dispersed metallic content within the Glaze.

It's always best to go to a little extra effort when painting a DIY Screen, and especially when it's a S-I-L-V-E-R
Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

unfortunately, the guy i spoke with was one of the main ones who runs the paint department. His comment implied that others besides the Faux Glaze were going to be discontinued as well. Maybe, someone else can make it to their local Home Depot and see how well this pans out.

BTW, I was at my local HD yesterday and they had about 15 Quarts of Faux Glaze, and 4-5 Gallons as well. No one there, Mgr included...knew anything about any impending discontinuance. That doesn't mean it's not heading for oblivion, but at least for now we all seem safe.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #581 of 763 Old 03-06-2013, 06:14 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
okay, I'll stick with the good advice and just clean the gun like i should. yeah, later i asked someone else who worked in the paint department and they didn't know of such details of the glaze being discontinued so that's good. Got mine already anyway so no prob there.
narhic_fd is offline  
post #582 of 763 Old 03-07-2013, 08:25 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I mixed up everything then strained it into my main bucket that will hold it until i get ready to spray. Should i strain it a couple more times before coming up with the final solution that I'm going to spray on??? I added 18 oz of distilled water instead of 16 0z. I'm making up a whole gallon. When I go to test spray what am i looking for to tell me that I've got a mixture and no more water is needed?? I'm using the Graco 3900 model by the way.
narhic_fd is offline  
post #583 of 763 Old 03-08-2013, 05:00 AM
Member
 
rengep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Norway, Bergen
Posts: 154
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
You should always strain when adding the mix into the container. There are no guaranties that the mixer wont chip when mixing and there's always the chance of third party items finding the way into the mix, however unlikely eek.gif

Can't help you with what to look for during spraying of the s-i-l-v-e-r mix as I've only done the SF mix but if I recall correctly the guidelines from MM for dusting is 3 feet/sec at 12-15" distance with 70% overlap.
rengep is offline  
post #584 of 763 Old 03-08-2013, 05:34 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

I mixed up everything then strained it into my main bucket that will hold it until i get ready to spray. Should i strain it a couple more times before coming up with the final solution that I'm going to spray on??? I added 18 oz of distilled water instead of 16 0z. I'm making up a whole gallon. When I go to test spray what am i looking for to tell me that I've got a mixture and no more water is needed?? I'm using the Graco 3900 model by the way.

The paint should flow out of the gun smoothly & freely...no sputtering or surging. The pattern should be at minimum 10-12" tall.

You can't hurt anything by straining....but after you strain into a clean Gallon container, and you can see that the viscosity is low enough, if the Squirrel Cage Mixer has been cleaned regularly and soon after mixing, and has rinsed clean, then the Paint that is in the Gallon can usually only needs to be re-stirred if it has sat for 1-2 hours. It should not need re-straining again unless you determine you need to add more water at a later time. (...due to evaporation...) The latter is unlikely to happen if you replace the Metal Lid after each use, or tightly seal any "pour spout" type lid. (I love those, BTW....)

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #585 of 763 Old 03-09-2013, 08:09 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The paint should flow out of the gun smoothly & freely...no sputtering or surging. The pattern should be at minimum 10-12" tall.

You can't hurt anything by straining....but after you strain into a clean Gallon container, and you can see that the viscosity is low enough, if the Squirrel Cage Mixer has been cleaned regularly and soon after mixing, and has rinsed clean, then the Paint that is in the Gallon can usually only needs to be re-stirred if it has sat for 1-2 hours. It should not need re-straining again unless you determine you need to add more water at a later time. (...due to evaporation...) The latter is unlikely to happen if you replace the Metal Lid after each use, or tightly seal any "pour spout" type lid. (I love those, BTW....)

I added 18 oz of distilled water to start instead of the 16 oz, . Should i just go ahead and add more now or see if the mixture needs more by test spraying?? I have the Graco 3900 turbine.It seems by reading the others post most people ended up using over 20 oz of water for there mixtures anyway but I don't want to jump the gun and put to much water in?? Your advice?? Oh, and what setting should the trigger on my spray gun be?? Should it be fully open allowing the most paint as possible coming out the front of the gun or diff??
narhic_fd is offline  
post #586 of 763 Old 03-10-2013, 02:09 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I made a gallon of the mix up by the way so how much water is recomended
narhic_fd is offline  
post #587 of 763 Old 03-10-2013, 04:30 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

I made a gallon of the mix up by the way so how much water is recomended

That is the normal amount the Mix makes (...minus 6 - 8 oz or so...) when one uses the suggested amount of Water.

You simply have to test the viscosity by straining the mix through the Nylon Sock Strainer yourself. (...they Strainers rinse out, ya know...)
No one can second guess the mix's properties at this point for you, you have to use your judgement based on how quickly the Mix strains, and how it appears when running off the Mixer Tool, then add water in 2 ounce increments until the paint passes smoothly through the Strainer with minimal "back-up" while you pour at a steady rate.

A "Tomato Soup" consistency is best. Certainly not "Water Thin" , but also not as thick as normal paint.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #588 of 763 Old 03-10-2013, 05:13 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

That is the normal amount the Mix makes (...minus 6 - 8 oz or so...) when one uses the suggested amount of Water.

You simply have to test the viscosity by straining the mix through the Nylon Sock Strainer yourself. (...they Strainers rinse out, ya know...)
No one can second guess the mix's properties at this point for you, you have to use your judgement based on how quickly the Mix strains, and how it appears when running off the Mixer Tool, then add water in 2 ounce increments until the paint passes smoothly through the Strainer with minimal "back-up" while you pour at a steady rate.

A "Tomato Soup" consistency is best. Certainly not "Water Thin" , but also not as thick as normal paint.

So basically your trying to achieve the same straining consistency as i did when i did a silver fire while back then? Wanting the paint mixture flowing through the strainer at about the same rate I'm pouring it into the strainer and in the can.
narhic_fd is offline  
post #589 of 763 Old 03-10-2013, 05:49 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pb_maxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: chicago
Posts: 2,386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 17
yes. a good rule of thumb on the right viscosity...

before you use the minwax polycrylic... stir it wood paint stick and even pour it through a strainer. it is that same consistency/viscosity and ease of flow through the strainer that your looking for when making a completed SF, MaxxMuud, or SLVER mix.
pb_maxxx is offline  
post #590 of 763 Old 03-10-2013, 08:03 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Okay, read all the post today and pretty sure i got the info on how to do this correctly. This is what I've come up with when using the "No Name" gun.

1) I want to move at a 3 feet per second rate while spraying the horizontal pattern overlapping by 60% with the first spray 60% off the top of screen and ending
60 % of the bottom of screen

2) I want the tip of the gun to be about 14 inches away from the my substrate I'm spraying on, in this case TWH

3) 6-8 coats, making sure the substrate is extremely smooth

4) plenty of dry time, preferably 45 min- 1hour dry time on first 3 coats with 1 1/2 hours on last coats.

I have a question pertaining to the 60% to 70% overlap. I would think you would want a 50% overlap to get a perfect even coating. I was doing some estimation and at a 60% or 70% overlap some spots would have 3 coats overlapped in small sections of the painted screen. wouldn't those few spots show up as thicker areas and give some undesired results to the screen??
narhic_fd is offline  
post #591 of 763 Old 03-10-2013, 08:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pb_maxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: chicago
Posts: 2,386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 17
we used to say 50% overlap... unfortunately what we noticed is that when we said that... people tended to 'actually' overlap only about 30-35%.
and also people tended to often not put on enough coats... so the exact opposite would occur under projected light... the 10-15% areas that were missed in their overlap would then be highlighted as 'darker' bands.

and so... wink.gif
pb_maxxx is offline  
post #592 of 763 Old 03-10-2013, 08:56 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

we used to say 50% overlap... unfortunately what we noticed is that when we said that... people tended to 'actually' overlap only about 30-35%.
and also people tended to often not put on enough coats... so the exact opposite would occur under projected light... the 10-15% areas that were missed in their overlap would then be highlighted as 'darker' bands.

and so... wink.gif

I'm glad you told me this because that saves me a future headache for what I'm going to be doing. Thanks PB_Maxx
narhic_fd is offline  
post #593 of 763 Old 04-08-2013, 07:09 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just to be sure. How long of dry time for the first 2 or 3 coats and then how much for the rest?? I know you don't have to wait as long for the first 1-3 coats to dry but how much should i wait for the remaining coats to be safe? I'm doing it in my bedroom so it's inside temperature of about 70 something.
narhic_fd is offline  
post #594 of 763 Old 04-08-2013, 07:35 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

Just to be sure. How long of dry time for the first 2 or 3 coats and then how much for the rest?? I know you don't have to wait as long for the first 1-3 coats to dry but how much should i wait for the remaining coats to be safe? I'm doing it in my bedroom so it's inside temperature of about 70 something.

30 minutes for 1st 3 coats

45-60 minutes for the rest dependent upon temp and humidity, and if a Fan is employed. 60 minutes is a safe bet.

Crank up the heat until you can spray in your Tighties (82-84) turn it off when spraying, wait 10 minutes (ventilate if possible) then crank it back up and employ a clean Fan. Doing that can reduce drying time to 30 minutes on every coat. But only "if".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #595 of 763 Old 04-29-2013, 06:59 PM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

30 minutes for 1st 3 coats

45-60 minutes for the rest dependent upon temp and humidity, and if a Fan is employed. 60 minutes is a safe bet.

Crank up the heat until you can spray in your Tighties (82-84) turn it off when spraying, wait 10 minutes (ventilate if possible) then crank it back up and employ a clean Fan. Doing that can reduce drying time to 30 minutes on every coat. But only "if".

MississippiMan, I want to test spray some S-I-L-V-E-R on something before i spray my screen. I tried on cardboard but Couldn't see it as good as I liked. What background color would be a good contrast in color to paint S-I-L-V-E-R on that would allow me to see the S-I-L-V-E-R and it's spray pattern better??
narhic_fd is offline  
post #596 of 763 Old 04-29-2013, 07:50 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pb_maxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: chicago
Posts: 2,386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 17
home depot / menards... usually has some thrifty white melamine boards... 2' x 4' for around $5.
pb_maxxx is offline  
post #597 of 763 Old 04-30-2013, 05:31 AM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

home depot / menards... usually has some thrifty white melamine boards... 2' x 4' for around $5.

Yeah, I bought a few of those sheets but the white background doesn't allow me to see the S-I-L-V-E-R very well. I need a good contrasting background color that would allow me to see the S-I-L-V-E-R better. Would a black or red background work better.??
narhic_fd is offline  
post #598 of 763 Old 04-30-2013, 05:54 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
You might as well get used to it. Because that is what you'll have to deal with.

Take a bright lamp and set it to the side of the screen / practice surface. That should help.

The entire aspect if S-I-L-V-E-R is that it goes on so thinly that it takes at least 3-4 layers before one can see any build-up. Even then, it is more the knowledge that you have done 8 Dusters that requires you to stop than your seeing a conspicuous build-up. But it is there, and at 8 coats you can see the Silver Metallic.

In fact, a 5-6 coats you can see it filling in the splotchy-ness.

It's all about doing the process correctly. You have to simply make note that :

1. Your leaving a decent pattern. On a piece of test material, while at the right distance, press the trigger and hold the Gun in place for 2- seconds, then observe the height of the pattern's wet spot.

2. You do every coating to as exactingly the same standard...and keep doing so until at last you can see the difference.

You can flip those TWH panels over and use the brown back side for the above test. It will show the wetness better than white will.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
post #599 of 763 Old 05-01-2013, 05:29 AM
Senior Member
 
narhic_fd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 420
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So, I think I've got the viscosity right on the mixture. It pretty much runs through the sock filter with only a very slight back up while pouring the paint from the 1 gallon can into the No Name sprayer paint cup. I took a time measurement using the viscosity tool to see how much time it took for the paint to run out and it had a viscosity rating of 87 seconds. Does that time sound about right to you guys. I want to make clear though, I DIDN"T USE the viscosity cup as my basis to find the viscosity for the S-I-L-V-E-R mixture. I just wanted to record the time for you guys so as to see if it sounds like the viscosity that others have gotten . By the way I have the Graco 3900 spraystation.
narhic_fd is offline  
post #600 of 763 Old 05-01-2013, 06:23 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,933
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked: 223
That all sounds good....great even. I never use the Viscosity Cup either. You cannot dip it into paint and get a accurate measurement if the sides are sloughing off paint at the same time. I once used a Turkey Baster to fill the Tool up. Thought I had "The System". According to the suggested times of drainage...things should have worked fine.

No...paint was too thick for a wide misty pattern to be produced. The Nylon Mesh Strainers however showed what was what.

Steady drainage with minimal back up when paint is poured out like you would pour Milk into a small glass.

But now Sir Narhic....you have to give it the "acid test" . Load the Gun's Cup. Squirt some paint. The "feel" of the exiting paint should be smooth, but forceful. Dependent of the size Needle, it should have a pattern between 8" to as much as 12" from 14" off a surface.

Hard to see on some surfaces, especially on the primed white substrate when S-I-L-V-E-R is employed....but we've covered that. cool.gif

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is offline  
Reply DIY Screen Section

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off