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post #631 of 733 Old 07-24-2013, 06:16 PM
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mississippiman, i want to add a little more silver metallic and behr faux glaze mix to my already mixed batch of s-i-l-v-e-r. I still think it has a little to much water in it and just want to skip having to leave it out to evaporate some water. Is it okay to do this?? Of course I'll do it in the correct ratio. maybe half of quart of behr faux glaze with 1 oz liquitex silver metallic?? I want to get it thicker again and then after that i can add more water if needed.
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post #632 of 733 Old 07-24-2013, 07:08 PM
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If you want to reduce the water content at least 50%, you need to make up at least 1/2 the amount of Mix remaining.

Sounds like you need to do that much anyway.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #633 of 733 Old 07-24-2013, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

If you want to reduce the water content at least 50%, you need to make up at least 1/2 the amount of Mix remaining.

Sounds like you need to do that much anyway.

now when you say "1/2 the amount" do you mean only the behr faux glace plus the silver metallic or that plus what amont of water would go with that much new mixture??
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post #634 of 733 Old 07-25-2013, 05:45 AM
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now when you say "1/2 the amount" do you mean only the behr faux glace plus the silver metallic or that plus what amont of water would go with that much new mixture??



If one is trying to reduce the water content by adding more of the base materials...why would one add more water?

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post #635 of 733 Old 07-25-2013, 04:17 PM
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LOL, just making sure, I don't want to mess this up...lol. I can be a little OSD on things sometimes, and that sometimes is when it comes to doing things that need to be perfect
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post #636 of 733 Old 07-26-2013, 03:56 AM
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LOL, just making sure, I don't want to mess this up...lol.

No you don't, and a absolute is this, you cannot mess with or vary either Mix content or spray technique and expect to have commensurable results with what others have experienced.

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post #637 of 733 Old 08-01-2013, 07:35 PM
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Quick question when it comes to mixing. I've made a few trips up here to the Graco/Erlex spray station, which happens to be in NC. I've talked with the Sam, who's tech for the spraystation, and one trick to have your gun spit less is give your latex paint a good 3 min mix with your squirrel cage mixer. He said one of the reason latex paint spits more was because latex molecules are stringy and mixing the mixture up a bit helps break it down to better spray out. As he said, it does work and helps the paint flow out of the gun better. I'm not sure if anything in s-i-l-v-e-rs formula is latex, but would mixing the mixture that long make spraying the s-i-l-v-e-r out better or worse and should i be avoiding mixing it that long???
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post #638 of 733 Old 08-03-2013, 03:44 AM
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Always mix as long as possible at a slow speed.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #639 of 733 Old 08-04-2013, 03:54 PM
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I did some testing spraying of s-i-l-v-e-r on some primed glass, 6 coats, and im not sure if the mixture is thin enough or what. After 6 coats the pattern doesn't have a uniform silver color to it and it is still so translucent not giving it much of a silver look except in spots where the paint is thicker in spots., Its not like it would if i was painting with a normal behr paint or something... What i mean is that there are dots where the s-i-l-v-e-r seems to be more condensed and not at others. Some spots have a silver color to it and others don't. I noticed while spraying that my gun is spitting thicker drops in some spots and not in others. Should the coating have a uniform silver with the same thickness throughout??? Is this a sign that my s-i-l--v-e-r isn't at the right viscosity yet???
Second, right now i have the 2.0 needle and the 1.5 needle. I've been doing all testing spraying with the 1.5 needle. I found out that there is a 1.0 needle. I'm thinking about buying the 1.0 needle from Graco for $25, good idea or bad??
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post #640 of 733 Old 08-05-2013, 08:15 AM
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S-I-L-V-E-R takes at least 7-8 coats to fill in all areas, sometimes more.

You should stick with the 1.5mm Tip. With anything smaller, you'd have to thin the mix all the more, your spray pattern would shorten, and everything becomes more difficult and time consuming.

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post #641 of 733 Old 08-05-2013, 04:42 PM
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what advantage are you getting by using the 1.5 tip vs the 2.0 tip?? I know a few pages back, you recommended me using the 1.5 tip needle over the 2.0..why?? Also, does using the 1.5 needle tip require more thinning vs if you were using the 2.0??
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post #642 of 733 Old 08-05-2013, 05:00 PM
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Bud...you have either forgotten what you have been told several times, and / or just cannot understand that the smaller needle is designed to produce a finer spray for a smoother surface. And...being a Tip w/a smaller opening, of course any matterial passing trough it had better be thinner than what can go through a 2.0 mm orifice. Otherwise you will not get much of any height on your spray pattern.

Really, your mixing has been all over the map...and frankly, it's always after you try something and fail that you ask "why?". You gotta know I want you to succeed...that is my express wish for everyone and why I'm on here so much.

But I mean...really! You gotta also know that if I tell you that S-I-L-V-E-R is not to be considered as being right for a Mirror, you should take that to the bank. It's a "Over Primer-Base' mix. This time around you have Primer over clear Plexi, but it's almost a sure bet that you don't have a thick enough coat of primer on top. Basically, you must turn the Plexi in a sheet of Sintra. Opaque.

Right now it's had to imagine you would even consider thinning your mix further. Stepping down to the 1.5 mm needle should be a "best case" for you: Unless your mix is almost at a "watery" state.

But honestly, at this conjecture I don't really have a clue as to where your mix is. I cannot advise you on it's viability as you have altered it at least what...3 times?

I sure don't want to offend you, and I absolutely don't want you to lose sight of you goal, but you have to STOP trying to second guess things, make self-determined changes, and just getter dun as you've been told it should be done. So many before you have already....lets roll with it!

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #643 of 733 Old 08-05-2013, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Bud...you have either forgotten what you have been told several times, and / or just cannot understand that the smaller needle is designed to produce a finer spray for a smoother surface. And...being a Tip w/a smaller opening, of course any matterial passing trough it had better be thinner than what can go through a 2.0 mm orifice. Otherwise you will not get much of any height on your spray pattern.

Really, your mixing has been all over the map...and frankly, it's always after you try something and fail that you ask "why?". You gotta know I want you to succeed...that is my express wish for everyone and why I'm on here so much.

But I mean...really! You gotta also know that if I tell you that S-I-L-V-E-R is not to be considered as being right for a Mirror, you should take that to the bank. It's a "Over Primer-Base' mix. This time around you have Primer over clear Plexi, but it's almost a sure bet that you don't have a thick enough coat of primer on top. Basically, you must turn the Plexi in a sheet of Sintra. Opaque.

Right now it's had to imagine you would even consider thinning your mix further. Stepping down to the 1.5 mm needle should be a "best case" for you: Unless your mix is almost at a "watery" state.

But honestly, at this conjecture I don't really have a clue as to where your mix is. I cannot advise you on it's viability as you have altered it at least what...3 times?

I sure don't want to offend you, and I absolutely don't want you to lose sight of you goal, but you have to STOP trying to second guess things, make self-determined changes, and just getter dun as you've been told it should be done. So many before you have already....lets roll with it!

I do remember you telling me before about it laying down a finer mist in previous post. I guess i should have checked what we've talked about before in previous post but i guess i was to lazy to go back. Sorry for that and thanks for repeating it for me. I guess what i was trying to get at when I asked about the smaller needle, was if there would also be more spitting with the 1.5 needle vs the 2.0 needle thus needing a bit more thinning. which you stated above.
I better explain a few things more on why it's taken so long. I haven't actually tried to paint my screen at all. I did take your advice and not try to spray on a mirror. You said don't and i didn't. Not on a mirror or anything for that matter.. My wall has been primed for the past month. It just needs some fine tuning before i spray the s-i-l-v-e-r on it. Heck, my room has been a mess for 3 months, half plastic-ed off the other half not so i can spray in one part and not get that much paint fog in the part i sleep in. My mix actually looks good and looks like it did before i added to much water while back. I've just been doing experimenting here and there with white paints.
What happened with my previous s-i-l-v-e-r mix is when i was watching the video's on the silver fire forum on you doing the straining i didn't notice how far you had the 1 gallon paint can tipped while you were pouring the silver fire mixture through the sock strainer into the spray gun container. When i was straining mine i tipped the gallon container of s-i-l-v-e-r way to much where to much was flowing out and kept adding water to my s-i-l-v-e-r mix until it went through the strainer without much backup. That ended up in a mixture that was to diluted and to thin a viscosity. I had my 1 gallon container of s-i-l-v-e-r mix tipped over more then it should have while straining into my graco paint gun container. I wanted to do a test spray with current viscosity to see how it looked before i committed on my primed wall. I was trying to achieve a white fusion with some white paint that had nothing to do with my s-i-l-v-e-r which i stated in another post totally separate from this one. I had that piece plexiglass around and it was already opaque from the behr UPW so i put couple coats of Kiltz primer on it and laid down some s-i-l-v-e-r to see how it looked before spraying on my wall. I didn't care how good the plexiglass looked i just wanted to see how the s-i-l-v-e-r paint mixed looked after some coats. also, I've had tons of things pop up here and there on my past weekends so I haven't been able to devote a good day to getting things done. Thats why everything is lagging on. I've been taking things slow and steady. I'm in no rush since it's all in my bedroom.
I'm not offended and am great full for you answering all the questions, especially since i know you have tons of other people you have to answer here on the forums. If i ask diff things on how and why things work it's because by nature I like to know how things work on what I'm doing. I like to know the mechanics behind things. I wouldn't try something that you already know wouldn't work.I know most of you on here are beyond white fusion but it was something i thought would be neat to see. My concern is with getting my s-i-l-v-e-r done and hope to get to it in couple weeks. I'm just REALLY afraid of doing this and messing it up. I did a Silver Fire screen last year and messed it up due to putting the plexiglass up on the wall backwards and messing up my silver fire mix. I don't want to waste another screen like that. That was a waste on the money i spent for the plexiglass and for all the silver fire paint mixes. I DON"T WANT TO SCREW THIS UP, LOL. I'm taking my time on things. Right now i have my wall primed and am using the white surface as the screen so i'm good. I don't want to commit on my wall till I know the mix is right and will test on random surfaces first before i spray the wall. Sorry to frustrate you Mississippi man...biggrin.gif:D. Thanks for all the help you give.
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post #644 of 733 Old 08-06-2013, 07:58 AM
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OK....I'm feeling a bit better today. I had a little "health issue" yesterday that had me a bit "off kilter" and stuck at home, and it all got to be a bit consternating (...rather than frustrating...) when I saw your post. So I came into my reply a bit inclined to be....well, exasperated.

Frustration...I save that for my Wifely issues. biggrin.gif

Far be it from me to ever consul haste....but just the same, there are just so many variables to consider, and it really should not take several months to cover those variables if one but follows known dictates and recommendations.

It really boils down to how much confidence one has in the given instructions, and how carefully one follows such. You seem willing to accept that you need advice and I know you know I'm there for you if / when you need it (...remember when I sent you my phone # and offered "real time" advice if needed? )

I certainly understand your caution this time around, so take the time you need. But don't deviate from what your told to do, and check back before you do anything your uncertain about. That sort of caution will never get any rebuke. That's a promise.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #645 of 733 Old 08-06-2013, 04:57 PM
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OK....I'm feeling a bit better today. I had a little "health issue" yesterday that had me a bit "off kilter" and stuck at home, and it all got to be a bit consternating (...rather than frustrating...) when I saw your post. So I came into my reply a bit inclined to be....well, exasperated.

Frustration...I save that for my Wifely issues. biggrin.gif

Far be it from me to ever consul haste....but just the same, there are just so many variables to consider, and it really should not take several months to cover those variables if one but follows known dictates and recommendations.

It really boils down to how much confidence one has in the given instructions, and how carefully one follows such. You seem willing to accept that you need advice and I know you know I'm there for you if / when you need it (...remember when I sent you my phone # and offered "real time" advice if needed? )

I certainly understand your caution this time around, so take the time you need. But don't deviate from what your told to do, and check back before you do anything your uncertain about. That sort of caution will never get any rebuke. That's a promise.

The main reason i've been on this project for a while was because the past few months have had stuff come up on the weekends. I've had friends move and had to work on car issues,and so on. I work during the week so weekends are really only my times. I also thought my gun was messing up and i took a few trips over to Graco and had some one on one time with the tech guy there and He helped me to see my problem. I was so scared of messing up this next one that things were getting to me, when it comes to the whole spray station, that shouldn't have been. I've been on egg shells on this due to my last failure and have been taking every step with baby steps. Thanks for your help in all.
Now, on a side note, I can't believe you remembered when i called you to get advice eek.gifeek.gifeek.gif. That was over a year ago, lol. I'm about ready to give this a go in next couple of weekends. I have to change out my oil and oil filter out this weekend not to mention i might need to change out my timing belt so that might eat up my time to do some spraying. Guess I'll see.
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post #646 of 733 Old 08-07-2013, 06:48 PM
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Now then...on this Thread, buried away where only those with the patience and desire to know will take note, let me state that we are so very close to achieving a solid 2.5 gain Black screen with no Graininess, and whose reflectivity is dispersed in the same manner as S-I-L-V-E-R 's is....through a translucent coating whose reflective elements are scattered and non-aligned with the PJ's beam. This will prevent the overt loss of Viewing Cone, something S-I-L-V-E-R itself does not suffer from. But it will also allow for the best ambient light performance we have ever offered.

The patient and desiring to know await... cool.gif
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post #647 of 733 Old 08-10-2013, 08:34 AM
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OK....I'm feeling a bit better today. I had a little "health issue" yesterday that had me a bit "off kilter" and stuck at home, and it all got to be a bit consternating (...rather than frustrating...) when I saw your post. So I came into my reply a bit inclined to be....well, exasperated.

Frustration...I save that for my Wifely issues. biggrin.gif

Far be it from me to ever consul haste....but just the same, there are just so many variables to consider, and it really should not take several months to cover those variables if one but follows known dictates and recommendations.

It really boils down to how much confidence one has in the given instructions, and how carefully one follows such. You seem willing to accept that you need advice and I know you know I'm there for you if / when you need it (...remember when I sent you my phone # and offered "real time" advice if needed? )

I certainly understand your caution this time around, so take the time you need. But don't deviate from what your told to do, and check back before you do anything your uncertain about. That sort of caution will never get any rebuke. That's a promise.

MississippiMan, would it be okay to call you again. I'm having some problems with getting s-i-l-v-e-r to spray smoothly and not sure why. Talking with you one on one would be the easiest and best way. I Don't have your number anymore so i would need that again. Thanks for all your help man.
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post #648 of 733 Old 08-10-2013, 04:34 PM
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Call away...................

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #649 of 733 Old 08-11-2013, 08:25 AM
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Call away...................

could you PM me your phone number please MississippiMan
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post #650 of 733 Old 08-13-2013, 09:32 PM
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I am posting this message in both the s-i-l-v-e-r, silver fire and the Maxxmudd because the straining for these paint mixtues all have one main agenda, getting the paint to strain through the sock strainer at a rate equal to your pour in rate, with only a little back up. but the paint mixture i am using for this whole post is the one I'm using now, s-i-l-v-e-r. Hopefully this well aid others into not having all the problem,s i gathered on me, due to water amounts.
I CAN"T BELIEVE IT!!! All my problems with spraying s-i-l-v-e-r came down to one thing VISCOSITY. But not in how thin it was but how thick the mixture was. When i did the original s-i-l-v-e-r i added to much water to it from tipping my gallon can of mixed s-i-l-v-e-r to much while straining thus making me add more water to make sure the mix didn't back up. After that the mixture was still spitting and all i could think was "add more water, the mixture is still to thick"...Well..after talking with MississippiMan i began to think the whole s-i-l-v-e-r batch i made up still had to much water and maybe...just maybe having to much water was the issue. From that thought i went and bought a quart of Behr Faux glaze and added 2 oz of silver metallic plus the 4 oz of water that would be needed for making a quart of s-i-l-v-e-r plus and extra 1 oz of water for safe meassure. I hooked it up to my graco gun and sprayed. The mix sprayed out WONDERFUL, minus a few spit marks. But, these spit marks were diff then the spit marks from the super diluted, previous mix, so I added about 1 more oz and BAM!! the mixture exited the gun and gave a pattern that it was supposed to. Any other previous time, like if i was spraying some Kiltz primer or some kind of behr paint if i wanted a bigger and smoother spray i would add more water and that would help but not with s-i-l-v-e-r....Why does adding to much water with this formula or silver fire or any other ones make the gun spit more???
Just to give another visual add in. My super diluted, first batch of s-i-l-v-e-r, had a viscosity rating, according to the little visicosity cup that comes with the Graco Spray Station of 2 mins and 20 sec( I know we don't use the viscosity cup to determine the proper viscosity of s-i-l-v-e-r, just wanted a added visual). My new batch with the right amount of water had a viscosity rating over 5 MINS!! I can clearly see now why you don't use the viscosity cup to check for correct viscosity of the paint mixtures offered here. I have the Graco 3900 and the recommended viscosity rating, according to Graco is 190 seconds and they would say to me " you can't spray a mixture out of the 3900 with a viscosity rating over 5 mins....
With this knowledge i now know what happened to my Silver Fire i did last year. TO MUCH WATER!!! It's so cool to know my problem wasn't with a bad spraystation but with human operating error.......I guess that means i was problem, lol. I want everyone to make sure you don't add to much water to your mix, especially when you are using the graco 3900 system. If you have any doubts about things then ask. Second...THIS IS A BIG ONE...Make sure you keep a record of how much water you are adding to your mix. That will help other on this forums diagnose your problem better if you run into a spitting problem like i did....Again, KEEP RECORD of how much water you added to your mixture. I Didn't and now i realize that if i would have, MississippiMan or others would have realized my problem in a jip. Third...THIS IS THE BIGGEST ONE...watch how much you are tipping your gallon can of paint mixture when straining into the paint gun container. If you tilt it to much then more paint will back up into the strainer and you will add to much water to help it flow through the strainer at the speed your are pouring it into the paint gun container . I'll post some video's and pictures to go in more detail on proper straining, when it comes to the angle you tip your can in couple of days.
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post #651 of 733 Old 08-14-2013, 02:54 AM
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The rate of which one pours the paint into the Sock Strainer has always been a intergal part of determining the viscosity (...or lack thereof actually...) of these Mixes.
I have several Videos posted showing this method, but in actual use, S-I-L-V-E-R has always been a bit thinner.

And yes...using the Viscosity measuring tool has never been recommended for use to judge correct viscosity.



http://s586.photobucket.com/user/MississippiMaurice/media/The%20Big%20Easy%20Experience%2008-01-13/003_zps0f831470.mp4.html




http://s586.photobucket.com/user/MississippiMaurice/media/The%20Big%20Easy%20Experience%2008-01-13/004_zpsa2599b39.mp4.html




http://s586.photobucket.com/user/MississippiMaurice/media/Paint%20Draining-Filtering%20-Stirring%20videos/PaintDraining.mp4.html

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #652 of 733 Old 08-17-2013, 07:19 PM
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MIssissippiMan. What would you consider "SLOW" setting on a drill while mixing?? What ill effect do you get if you use to high of a speed while mixing your s-i-l-v-e-r?? Is it okay to mix my kiltz primer at a high speed before i spray on the wall or should i mix the primer at low speed as well???
I sprayed some kiltz primer on a new test strip I'm going to paint with s-i-l-v-e-r on morrow. One thing i did notice after spraying some coats of primer on was that the level of smoothness of the coats varied on how much the gun was open on the paint control dial. I sprayed the first 2 coats with the paint control dial fully open and found that i had to do some sanding after the coats. I sprayed the last coat with the paint control open only about 40%. Yes i had to overlap the coats more but after drying the coat came out with a smoother finish requiring less sanding. When it comes to laying down your primer coats what settings do you use on your gun??
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post #653 of 733 Old 08-18-2013, 03:58 AM
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If you mix fast enough to create a whirlpool and suck air into the paint, your going too fast. If a drill has a slow /fast setting, slow works best. Variable? Then spin it just short of seeing a whirlpool appear.

The primer is thicker, even diluted, than a Glaze/water based paint, so when applied with higher pressure it can create a "sand-papery" texture because it drys differently.

If the flow feels solid and smooth, it will be your technique (speed-distance-overlap) that will dictate how much texture or excessive paint you lay down.

Back down pressure a bit, but not any less than 70% because you want a wide (tall) pattern with plenty of overlap, applied at 3 feet per second from 14".

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post #654 of 733 Old 08-18-2013, 06:45 AM
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Thanks MississippiMan for explaining the fine points for me. I appreciate it a lot..
So bascially you want to apply the primer about the same way you would apply a coating of s-i-l-v-e-r?? When spraying the primer on, can overlapping the same spot to many times add unwanted texture as well???
My drill is a 7 amps, Black and Decker corded drill. It has varying speeds depending on how much i push the trigger in. This is my drill:

http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A0PDoS1s0BBSIAcAg.mJzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTFyNmFvMzkyBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAM4ZjVjNzNjNDhlOWEyOWQ3MTUyZGQ2ODljZDZiM2Y5MQRncG9zAzIz?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3F_adv_prop%3Dimage%26va%3Dblack%2Band%2Bdecker%2B7%2Bamp%2Bcorded%2Bdrill%26fr%3Dyfp-t-900%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D23&w=300&h=300&imgurl=i.walmartimages.com%2Fi%2Fp%2F00%2F02%2F88%2F77%2F56%2F0002887756197_300X300.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2FBlack-Decker-7.0-Amp-1-2-VSR-Drill-Driver-Model-DR550%2F9714684&size=14.1KB&name=%3Cb%3EBlack+%3C%2Fb%3E%26+%3Cb%3EDecker+7%3C%2Fb%3E.0+%3Cb%3EAmp+%3C%2Fb%3E1%2F2%22+VSR+%3Cb%3EDrill%3C%2Fb%3E%2FDriver+%28Model%23+DR550%29%3A+Tools+...&p=black+and+decker+7+amp+corded+drill&oid=8f5c73c48e9a29d7152dd689cd6b3f91&fr2=&fr=yfp-t-900&tt=%3Cb%3EBlack+%3C%2Fb%3E%26+%3Cb%3EDecker+7%3C%2Fb%3E.0+%3Cb%3EAmp+%3C%2Fb%3E1%2F2%22+VSR+%3Cb%3EDrill%3C%2Fb%3E%2FDriver+%28Model%23+DR550%29%3A+Tools+...&b=0&ni=21&no=23&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=12nrjjl2u&sigb=142jhugqb&sigi=1205r5rf8&.crumb=zEM4Ypgj.VW&fr=yfp-t-900

....Man thats a long URL link, lol.

By the way...when you are mixing the paint or primer, with the squirrel cage mixer, do you leave the mixer at the bottom of the gallon can/ graco paint sprayer container or bring it up and down to hit the top layer and mix it???
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post #655 of 733 Old 08-18-2013, 08:54 AM
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Up and down. Move the Mixer around slowly to assure complete mixing, just don't hold it up so high it whips the surface into a froth.

Anytime too much paint is applied one risks the chance for texture-induced "Orange Peel"...a result of trapped air between layers of paint that tries to "bubble out". Slow drying will also create texture, producing the same effect for the same reason.

Spraying Primer is a little dcifferent, and with primer one must expect to do some small degree of sanding, especially on the last coat before spraying finish coats. But that last Primer sanding is VERY lightly done so as to only smooth, not "remove" primer.

That's a Big Drill. Usually, I'm talking about Battery powered Hand Drills, not what is called "1/2" Drive Drill Motors".

BTW, the Forum Mods / Administrators don't like links that contain all those " Program tags" and info-mining links. You posted a link that contains all the script for linking into a Flash slide show. They just want links with static images.

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post #656 of 733 Old 08-18-2013, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Up and down. Move the Mixer around slowly to assure complete mixing, just don't hold it up so high it whips the surface into a froth.

Anytime too much paint is applied one risks the chance for texture-induced "Orange Peel"...a result of trapped air between layers of paint that tries to "bubble out". Slow drying will also create texture, producing the same effect for the same reason.

Spraying Primer is a little dcifferent, and with primer one must expect to do some small degree of sanding, especially on the last coat before spraying finish coats. But that last Primer sanding is VERY lightly done so as to only smooth, not "remove" primer.

That's a Big Drill. Usually, I'm talking about Battery powered Hand Drills, not what is called "1/2" Drive Drill Motors".

BTW, the Forum Mods / Administrators don't like links that contain all those " Program tags" and info-mining links. You posted a link that contains all the script for linking into a Flash slide show. They just want links with static images.

Thanks MississippiMan, I'll keep that in mind when posting pics. Another quick question. I know after the 7 to 8 coats of s-i-l-v-e-r, the screen should look awesome but i was wondering if after spraying that last coat and if i wanted to sand it to a glass smooth looking finish, to give a added look that it's manufactured, should i add one more coat, making 9 coats, so i can fine gritt sand it and not loose that 8th coat i just sprayed on??? I would think that if i put on just 8 coats and then sanded that final coat to give it a glass smooth finish that it would be like i never sprayed the 8 coat. Your opinion on it??? Yet again, thanks for your LONG SUFFERING, lol, with me..biggrin.gif:D:D
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post #657 of 733 Old 08-19-2013, 02:17 AM
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The high level of Glaze in the S-I-L-V-E-R mix requires at minimum 3-4 day drying time before it is hard enough to sand. Besides, what with the S-I-L-V-E-R mix being so very thin, if applied correctly, it should produce a build-up of layers that result in a very smooth finish.

In any case, you'd have to be very careful and use an exceedingly light touch. I am not sure that such a course of action would be justified at all unless for some reason you did in fact create a undesirable level of texture. S-I-L-V-E-R was never intended to go up with any need for sanding between coats.

Lastly,a "too smooth" glassy-like surface might produce a degree of sheen that would be detrimental. I counsel waiting until the 7th coat is Dry and making a careful evaluation.


PS, put a space between your emoticons.

tongue.gifwink.gifbiggrin.gifcool.gifsmile.gif ....otherwise biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif:D rolleyes.gif

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post #658 of 733 Old 08-22-2013, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The high level of Glaze in the S-I-L-V-E-R mix requires at minimum 3-4 day drying time before it is hard enough to sand. Besides, what with the S-I-L-V-E-R mix being so very thin, if applied correctly, it should produce a build-up of layers that result in a very smooth finish.

In any case, you'd have to be very careful and use an exceedingly light touch. I am not sure that such a course of action would be justified at all unless for some reason you did in fact create a undesirable level of texture. S-I-L-V-E-R was never intended to go up with any need for sanding between coats.

Lastly,a "too smooth" glassy-like surface might produce a degree of sheen that would be detrimental. I counsel waiting until the 7th coat is Dry and making a careful evaluation.


PS, put a space between your emoticons.

tongue.gifwink.gifbiggrin.gifcool.gifsmile.gif ....otherwise biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif:D rolleyes.gif

when it comes to primer, do you apply the primer in duster coats, like you would s-i-l-v-e-r, as well??? In times past i would apply the primer in full coats making sure that the whole surface was fully covered.
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post #659 of 733 Old 08-23-2013, 04:11 AM
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Slower Dusters, but still Dusters. If it takes more coats, the end result is a smoother finish to lay down the finish coats on.

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post #660 of 733 Old 09-03-2013, 07:06 PM
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Between S-i-l-v-e-r and Silver Fire, which one does a better job maintaining whites while at the same time giving contrast enhancements??
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