Wrapping Black Velvet on Trim...... with Mitered or Butt joined ends. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 136 Old 06-22-2007, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Through several PMs as of late, I've concluded that many people are again in need of comprehensive directions as to how to wrap and secure Black Velvet to wood or MDF Trim. The original thread that contained the previously published post below is still at : http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=652174

I've relocated my post to this new thread so any new replies or requests could be addressed with more directness and ease.


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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


Here is a pictorial on the basics involved on wrapping Mitered Edges. I'm certainly no Upholsterer, but all there really is to it is folding the material in a manner to which you get a Flat laydown, and making sure you only using enough material to facilitate such folding....but no more.

MDF "Base" Trim. (3.25" wide x 5/8"" thin)[/color][/b]



Home Depo Store SKU # 526895

First, determine how wide your Velvet needs to be. Shown below is a piece of 3.25" wide 3/8" MDF Base like above only it's been ripped to 2.5" I cut/ripped the velvet to 3.75". That was almost too little, but as I said before, having just enough to work with makes folding it all flat easier, and results in your having less excess to trim away.

Here we go:

After you have your Trim cut, and the velvet ready, lay the trim down to where the leading corner is 2" back from the leading edge of the Velvet. Now trim at a 45 degree angle corresponding with the edge of the Trim, leaving a 2" wide apron of the extra material.

You must then staple the materal about 6" from the leading corner, and then firmly stretch the fabric by pulling it toward the corner of the trim being wrapped. Staple it down close to the angled edge.. Now, taking your thumb & forefinger, pinch the material in until you take in the extra material, roll your forefinger down against the angled edge to remove even more slack, then fold the material over and staple.




Now trim off the excess close to the staple/s you put in to hold the material in place. Repeat the "Pinch-Pull-&-Fold" routine again and staple. Trim off the excess.




Now if you've pulled everything moderately tight, your ready to fold over the remaining "Flap" of material. Always do the protruding corner first, as this heps prevent a "Dog Ear" from developing. Pull firmly, while keeping your Forefinger against the inside edge of the Miter cut. Don't try to manipulate the fabric to go a direction it does not want to fold toward or you will get lumps and/or creases. Using a firm pull, fold the velvet over and staple as close to the angled edge and as deep into the corner as you can. Go to the other "inside" corner, pull it out, fold it over, then using your finger, smooth out any wrinkles that occur along the Miter cut edge. If it looks smooth while your holding it in place, staple the far corner first, then while tugging evenly across the largest area of remaining unstapled velvet, staple it down. Trim away the excess as shown in the image after the next one below.





OK & Alrighty then. Now all you have to do is repeat everything perfectly 7 more times and your done!!!! Hopefully your project will look like what you see in the next Photo. Or better. It does get a little bit easier, if not intuitive, after the 2nd or 3rd corner your do that you see come out OK.





Mitered Corners do smack of class, and the larger the trim used, the more it seems to compliment the appearance. But do NOT think that a well wrapped "Butt Joint" cannot look virtually just as good. Once again, an essential thing to be sure of is that all slack in the material is taken up by gentle but firm pulling around sharp corners and straight edges. Wrapping a "Butt" end is like wrapping a "Boxed" present, but in this case, as in a Mitered corner, you don't want to have to deal with too much excess material.

Below is a final photo example of a recently completed 3" wide Black Velvet Trim w/Decorative "Creme White" Channeled Trim Molding & Corner Buttons on the outside.





I think that looks pretty good, and it consists of Velvet Wrapped Butt Joints within a Trim framework.

I "Butt Ended" the Velvet Trim because it is easier to do, and the wrapped Trim Mold becomes the main focus anyway. To see the straight line, you have to be less than 1' away. I tell everybody who gets a LF, or a BFLF Screen that if their guests go up to within 1' away from the screen and/or trim, and make comment about seeing a tiny abberation, or flaw, that they should "Kick 'em Out!" and don't invite 'em back again.

Some people!!!!!!!


Here is a quickly thrown together example of a Butt joint assembly.






That about "wraps" this little essay up.

I had fun neglecting 2-3 important projects to whip up this little tutorial. If anyone has better images, or a more refined description of the wrapping procedure, please venture forth with it. I, and a few others did extensive Web Searches to no avail on this subject matter, so I decided that if it was needed to get done'd, I might as well go ahead an done'd it.

So I did. Now all ya all go getcherself "Corner Crazy".

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post #2 of 136 Old 08-04-2007, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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As per Requests, Bumpin' the thread

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post #3 of 136 Old 08-04-2007, 07:56 PM
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MS Man...
can you remind me again..what exactly the screen is attached to.. what material are you using as the backboard?

Thanks.. time to do things the right way
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post #4 of 136 Old 08-05-2007, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelWB View Post

MS Man...
can you remind me again..what exactly the screen is attached to.. what material are you using as the backboard?

Thanks.. time to do things the right way

Hi MichaelWB

By "Attached to", I presume you need a "removable Screen assembly"?

If it's going directly onto a wall, I'm not worried about the repair of a few screw holes upon removal of the materal off a wall, I just use a surface area of backing material (or the screen surface itself....) that is about 1/2" longer on each side than the width of the screen's image area and screw or nail it up using that thin boarder. Then using 3-1/4" wide 5-8" MDF Base Trim, and by NOT ripping of the "curve" off the trim before wrapping it with Black Velvet, I use the overlapping curved edges to hold the long sides flat. Otherwise, I just Glue the darn screen materal directly to the wall, and butt the edges of the trim against the materal and Finish nail the trim in place. Both attachments leave either screw holes or "Finish nail" sized holes to repair if removal is necessary, (...well, except the glue method which is permanent...) but really, those present almost no worry unless the screen is going up onto irreplacable Wall Paper

I've been using 1/8" simple Medium Density Hardboard (just like "Peg Board" only no holes) for some time now. Strangely enough, when looking for some not so long ago at Home Depot and finding none, I went over to the Paneling Dpt and found the exact same thing, only coated with a bright semi-gloss White Vinyl surface (laminated on BTW) for about $4.00 less per 4' x 8' sheet Called "Thrifty White", I've used it WITHOUT PRIMER for several projects and it's performed admirably.

Either material suits the purpose your requesting. The smooth "Brown side" is to be used for painting, the coarse side is ideal for gluing another material to. If you use the TW, you actually can have two surfaces to utilize with a Flip....one could be Ambient Light oriented (for TV/Football/Sports) and the other a Hi-Gain app such as S-I-L-V-E-R HG. You just need to design the Trim to be Double Sided, to be of a "French Cleat" nature on top...., and the Wall Mounted part of the Cleat also covered in a smooth cloth to prevent scratching the surface.

For screens over 98" diagonal, you must use a segmented approach to create large enough area that still has some overlap around the edges to use as a boarder to affix your Trim to. Laminate advocates have used a Ring of 1"x's with cross bracing, much like a BOC frame only less robust. If you use hardboard, this method can work just fine if you only using one side.

Post up and give specific details as to what you want to accomplish, and you can get a few tailor-made suggestions.

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post #5 of 136 Old 08-05-2007, 09:23 PM
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That looks just like how to cover rails on a pool table. MississippiMan you're not a pool shark too? Guess I would have to watch out if your over to my home theater and game room!
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post #6 of 136 Old 08-06-2007, 01:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redcar54 View Post

That looks just like how to cover rails on a pool table. MississippiMan you're not a pool shark too? Guess I would have to watch out if your over to my home theater and game room!

6-8 beers later and you'd have all my Money and I'd be asleep watching Saving Private Ryan.

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post #7 of 136 Old 08-09-2007, 07:06 AM
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Thanks for the repost. I'm working on making a boarder for my Do-Able screen atm, so this was really helpful.

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post #8 of 136 Old 08-16-2007, 02:53 PM
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Great post many thanks for this, unfortinatly for me, im using a DIY rolling screen / blind for space reasons, I am thinking of a way to frame my screen with Velvet. Excelent wrapping tutorial!
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post #9 of 136 Old 01-02-2008, 07:30 AM
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Great post...thx
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post #10 of 136 Old 01-02-2008, 06:29 PM
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MississippiMan,
Thank you for an excellent post. I am at that stage of trimming out my screen. We built the theater as a new addition to the house - and even with it not quite complete, I find us using it 4-5 times a week to watch a movie. The screen is painted directly on the wall (our drywall folks did a supurb job and all I had to do is a little finish filling and sanding to have a perfectly flat 115" screen). My question now is about attaching the trim to the wall - if I understand you correctly, you just used finish nails through the velvet and mdf? Does it leave a nasty tear in the velvet or does the fabric tend to "self seal" the hole? My concern is not for today or tomorrow, but down the road when I either need to clean or replace the velvet. I want to make the future maintenance as simple as possible. Also, it seems like you are able to avoid using corner brackets using your technique. Let me know if I have made some incorrect assumptions.

Thanks for all your help!
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post #11 of 136 Old 01-15-2008, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

asleep watching

You'll have to teach me how to do that sometime...

Go Buckeyes! 2003 NCAA College Football National Champions! 14-0
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post #12 of 136 Old 01-16-2008, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southsound View Post

MississippiMan,
Thank you for an excellent post. I am at that stage of trimming out my screen. We built the theater as a new addition to the house - and even with it not quite complete, I find us using it 4-5 times a week to watch a movie. The screen is painted directly on the wall (our drywall folks did a supurb job and all I had to do is a little finish filling and sanding to have a perfectly flat 115" screen). My question now is about attaching the trim to the wall - if I understand you correctly, you just used finish nails through the velvet and mdf? Does it leave a nasty tear in the velvet or does the fabric tend to "self seal" the hole? My concern is not for today or tomorrow, but down the road when I either need to clean or replace the velvet. I want to make the future maintenance as simple as possible. Also, it seems like you are able to avoid using corner brackets using your technique. Let me know if I have made some incorrect assumptions.

Thanks for all your help!

Do you have access behind your wall? If so, I would sink some screws in from behind. Torn velvet is not IMO a clean install.

I am going to attempt this method for my removable fixed frame screen.
http://www.smxscreen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101
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post #13 of 136 Old 01-20-2008, 05:42 PM
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would it be possible to wrap the velvet around the trim using spray adhesive instead of staples?

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post #14 of 136 Old 01-22-2008, 11:26 AM
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If you clamp it down and let it dry, but why? I just got done wrapping mine in the technique linked two posts above and it turned out VERY nice.
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post #15 of 136 Old 01-22-2008, 11:30 AM
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I've been looking for a place online to get some black velvet with no success. Any recomendations?
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post #16 of 136 Old 01-28-2008, 12:59 PM
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Thanks mississippiman. I'll let you know how it turns out.

How would you recommend affixing this to a screen, mine is allready screwed to the wall and the border will be going on top of the screen. thanks.
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post #17 of 136 Old 01-29-2008, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revolt View Post

mine is allready screwed

Why yes it is!

How about velcro?
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post #18 of 136 Old 01-29-2008, 11:07 AM
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That could work, but it would stickout from the screen, i'd rather not do that... hmm.
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post #19 of 136 Old 01-29-2008, 01:20 PM
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Step 16 in my post 2 above will allow you to work with a frame already attached to the wall. It will be alot trickier, especially the top horizontal piece but you should be able to wrap it around and possibly tuck it between the frame and the wall.

You could also just wrap the border stapling it in the back and use the french cleat approach for the border and just hang it on the frame.
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post #20 of 136 Old 01-29-2008, 01:21 PM
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post #21 of 136 Old 02-01-2008, 09:18 AM
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Well todays project is wrapping the border in velvet. Thing is our border is only 1/4" and its kinda flimsy..
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post #22 of 136 Old 02-18-2008, 05:06 AM
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Well, i wrapped mine in velvet over the weekend. That was harder than it looked. There's a real knack to doing that. It came out great....just took like 4 hours...

Really nice...really adds alot to the contrast. i'm thinking of doing the whole screen wall in fabric panels.

it's amazing how black the velvet is!

oh, and THANKS to MM !
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post #23 of 136 Old 02-18-2008, 06:52 AM
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I used spray adhesive. The velvet really splinters when cut.The spray keeps it from fraying and coming apart.

KG
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post #24 of 136 Old 02-19-2008, 11:09 AM
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I plan on using the Triple Velvet but unsure on how to attach the wrapped trim to an existing screen that already has mitered trim. I built the original BOC screen with stained trim to serve as the masking border but since then I've upgraded the projector and installed a ceiling fan so the borders no longer line up.

Any suggestions?
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post #25 of 136 Old 02-20-2008, 05:52 AM
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Because of the weight of the velvet and MDF moulding I had to use velcro (the industrial kind).
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post #26 of 136 Old 03-24-2008, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southsound View Post

MississippiMan,
Thank you for an excellent post. I am at that stage of trimming out my screen. We built the theater as a new addition to the house - and even with it not quite complete, I find us using it 4-5 times a week to watch a movie. The screen is painted directly on the wall (our drywall folks did a supurb job and all I had to do is a little finish filling and sanding to have a perfectly flat 115" screen). My question now is about attaching the trim to the wall - if I understand you correctly, you just used finish nails through the velvet and mdf? Does it leave a nasty tear in the velvet or does the fabric tend to "self seal" the hole? My concern is not for today or tomorrow, but down the road when I either need to clean or replace the velvet. I want to make the future maintenance as simple as possible. Also, it seems like you are able to avoid using corner brackets using your technique. Let me know if I have made some incorrect assumptions.

Thanks for all your help!

I was wondering these same things as well. It does not look like it was ever really answered. Any thoughts?
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post #27 of 136 Old 03-24-2008, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southsound View Post

My question now is about attaching the trim to the wall - if I understand you correctly, you just used finish nails through the velvet and mdf? Does it leave a nasty tear in the velvet or does the fabric tend to "self seal" the hole? My concern is not for today or tomorrow, but down the road when I either need to clean or replace the velvet. I want to make the future maintenance as simple as possible. Also, it seems like you are able to avoid using corner brackets using your technique. Let me know if I have made some incorrect assumptions.


Quote:
Originally Posted by slybarman View Post

I was wondering these same things as well. It does not look like it was ever really answered. Any thoughts?

Those questions were answered via PM at a time was discretion was the order of the day.

Finish Nails are sharp, pointy things, and they go through the velvet like a needle through soft skin.

1st, if you use 1-1/2" Bright Finish Nails and a "Nail Set", the small head of those nails will recede below the velvet and into the wood/mdf, and the velvet will close up behind them. Of course, using too BIG finish nails, or too large a diameter Nail Set, and you can create a hole that won't cover up. Setting nails into pre-painted Mdf Trim can sometimes result in the Nail Set carrying back some white primer as it is pulled out, and depositing that onto the edges of the hole in the velvet. If that happens, use a Black Marker's felt tip to daub some "coverage" onto the offending spot.

You do not have to necessarily have a stud available to sink your nails into either. Driving them in at slight angles, and every other one in an opposing direction will make the trim snug up tight to the wall and resist pulling loose.
It also helps eveb more to hide the "entry point" under the velvet.



2nd, Corner Braces ("L" Brackets )would be required only if you planned to pre-construct an entire Trim Framework for the Screen prior to "hanging it" into place. I haven't used those for a long time now, once I discovered how much easier it is to individually cut, wrap, then assemble the individual trim pieces as I go.

First you measure the Bottom of the screen's (Image) edge, and Miter cut the piece's "inside" length to match that figure. (Outside length = the protruding "pointy end") Allow a 1/32" under cut in length. Measure and miter cut each "Side" piece to as exact an "Inside Length" as possible. Hang those (nail) first, matching up the inside length with the screen edge. Then place your "Bottom "piece". Now measure the inside top screen edge, and mitre it 1/32" short also. Wrap and place. The 1/32" shortage top and bottom allows for the extra length added when you wrapped each end of the Pieces. You still want to have to press them together to get a tight fit though, because the tight fit creates a compression of the material gathered at the seam making such a seam virtually invisible.
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post #28 of 136 Old 03-24-2008, 12:19 PM
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Thanks for the response MM that makes sense.

My only concern with that method is that my theater is my 1 1/2 year old's playroom during the day. I am thinking I may need to attach it to the wall in a way that is a bit more durable than finish nails into drywall - in case he decides to pull on it. I was thinking of making it a complete frame and then handing it using 4 keyhole brackets. The downside would be that I don't think it would be quite as snug up to the wall. Any thoughts on how to make it more child-proof?
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post #29 of 136 Old 03-24-2008, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Use a Stud Finder and hit every vertical stud you can. Use the "cross nailed" method on either end if they do not transpose a underlying stud.

As for keeping little fingers from prying....embedding a low voltage "Electric Fence Wire" around the outside edges and keeping the carpet wet underneath the Screen will work just as good, and makes for Great "America's Funniest Home Video" fodder.

I wanna copy of that clip........

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post #30 of 136 Old 03-31-2008, 07:49 AM
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I tried wrapping my mitered boards in velvet last night. Boy, they sure didn't come out like ones in your pictures. I just did not have the technique down. Oh well.

Is there a real big weight difference between the 3/8" MDF and 1x3poplar?
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