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EasyFlex Family of DIY Painted Screen Solutions

35K views 234 replies 31 participants last post by  benven 
#1 ·
NOTICE: This thread will no longer be supported! Any proven useful information has been transfered to the sticky Beginner's Guide To Simple DIY Painted Screens .



The tints that were developed as a part of this thread were shown to be way off neutral gray.


The Pearl Clear Coats were also determined to shift the color too much. In addition most people are not able to apply the pearl clear coats without getting streaks.
 
#152 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler /forum/post/12030832


I looked for a spread of 6 or less. If green was at an extreme then I limited the spread to 4.


If you see any that don't meet that let me know.

I was just wondering why none of the True Value or Sherwin Williams paints were picks.


P.S. When I put on the Behr N8 formula, it seemed to me to have an ever so slightly red tint to it compared to SW Gray Screen. Now I know why:


N8 - 202 202 202


SW GS - 199 203 203


For some TV stuff the missing red may be better, considering it seems some channels push way too much red for some unknown reason. Then again, some LCDs have a slight green push.
 
#153 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler /forum/post/11442730

Pratt & Lambert Near Neutral Tints


161 166 164 - 2241 Carolina Gull


175 175 175 - N7

176 180 177 - 2240 Minnow


192 193 190 - 2239 Gigs' Grey *


198 199 195 - 2310 Armory *


202 202 202 - N8

197 200 200 - 2316 Hearthstone *


201 207 203 - 2232 Nickel


213 213 208 - 2238 Winter's Gate


215 214 209 - 2309 Granitine


222 218 219 - 1120 Souvenir


223 225 223 - 2315 Doverfeather *

223 225 220 - 2231 Hesperia

223 226 222 - 2327 Wraith


229 229 229 - N9

228 233 230 - 1285 Sky Cloud *


233 239 234 - 1263 Whisper


245 245 233 - 1426 Ancestral


* Tiddler's Picks


As per Randall' Paints in Ottawa recommended C2 brand of paints that the P&L colors can be mixed in.

I would stick to the actual Pratt and Lambert paints myself.


The Pratt & Lambert paint is called Accolade® Interior Acrylic Latex Flat. It is described as "child-proof" so it should be fairly durable and washable. There is also the Accolade® Interior Acrylic Latex Velvet which is also said to be "child-proof".


Benjamin Moore Near Neutral Tints


Benjamin Moore Color Preview


171 168 166 - 2112-50 STORMY MONDAY


175 175 175 - N7


167 170 175 - 2133-50 PIGEON GRAY

181 182 177 - HC-169 COVENTRY GRAY

184 189 191 - 2124-40 THUNDERCLOUD GRAY

196 200 200 - 2121-40 SILVER HALF DOLLAR *


202 202 202 - N8


201 204 204 - 2134-60 WHITESTONE *

201 203 205 - 2133-60 SIDEWALK GRAY

206 204 201 - 2112-60 CEMENT GRAY

214 218 220 - 2126-60 GRAY CLOUD *

211 215 218 - 2124-50 BUNNY GRAY

219 222 222 - 2121-50 ICED CUBE SILVER *

220 222 222 - 2132-70 MINERAL ICE *

220 223 224 - 2119-70 FULL MOON

223 224 223 - 2133-70 TUNDRA *

223 223 225 - 2118-70 HEAVEN *

223 225 224 - 2125-60 MARILYN'S DRESS *

223 226 225 - 2134-70 GENESIS WHITE *


229 229 229 - N9


230 232 231 - 2124-60 MISTY GRAY *

232 229 230 - 2116-70 MIRAGE WHITE *

234 230 229 - 2115-70 OYSTER

231 233 231 - 2126-70 CHALK WHITE *

236 237 235 - 2125-70 WEDDING VEIL *

235 237 234 - 2121-60 WHITE DIAMOND *

239 240 237 - 2124-70 DISTANT GRAY *

241 242 238 - 2121-70 CHANTILLY LACE *

239 243 239 - 2123-70 ICE MIST *

243 242 236 - INT. RM 1 SUPER WHITE *


* Tiddler's picks.



True Value Trucolors


189 191 190 - 1981 WINTERS EVENING *

200 201 201 - 1982 WINTER MOUNTAIN *


202 202 202 - N8


216 218 216 - 1991 MIDTOWN GRAY *

220 220 220 - 1983 WINTER MIST *

217 220 219 - 2007 QUIET GRAY *

221 222 222 - 1999 PEARL GRAY *

220 224 222 - 1695 WINTER FROST *

225 228 227 - 1984 CULTURED GRAY *


229 229 229 - N9


226 230 230 - 1680 WHITE IVY *

239 236 239 - 1624 SPOTWHITE *

238 242 241 - 1464 MURMUR *

243 244 239 - 67 SILVER PEARL


Sherwin Williams Near Neuytral Tints


165 167 163 - SW 7066 GRAY MATTERS *


175 175 175 - N7


188 184 182 - SW 6002 ESSENTIAL GRAY

184 187 183 - SW 7065 ARGOS *


202 202 202 - N8


199 203 203 - SW 7071 GRAY SCREEN *

204 205 202 - SW 7064 PASSIVE *

205 203 206 - SW 6260 UNIQUE GRAY *

215 218 218 - SW 6253 OLYMPUS WHITE *

221 223 220 - SW 7070 SITE WHITE *

221 224 224 - SW 6231 ROCK CANDY *

224 224 223 - SW 6259 SPATIAL WHITE *

227 227 229 - SW 6539 SOOTHING WHITE *


229 229 229 - N9


229 230 227 - SW 6252 ICE CUBE *

227 231 230 - SW 6518 SKI SLOPE *

227 231 232 - SW 6525 RARIFIED AIR *

234 236 231 - SW 7007 CEILING BRIGHT WHITE

237 237 231 - SW 7005 PURE WHITE

now this i don't get?

earlier this week i provided a list of 9 colors between N7 and N9 that were either completely neutral or had one of the 3 RGB colors that had a deviation of no more than 1 point from the other 2 (the other 2 being the same value).


all 9 colors are computer matched by xrite at lowes to use with their valspar matte base and now we're including colors that are off by 4 and 6 (or more) points?


if anything just have lowes, truevalue and HD scan your munsell cards a few times each to get a good read and post what their preferred tints are.
 
#155 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrnole /forum/post/12031213


now this i don't get?

earlier this week i provided a list of 9 colors between N7 and N9 that were either completely neutral or had one of the 3 RGB colors that had a deviation of no more than 1 point from the other 2 (the other 2 being the same value).


all 9 colors are computer matched by xrite at lowes to use with their valspar matte base and now we're including colors that are off by 4 and 6 (or more) points?


if anything just have lowes, truevalue and HD scan your munsell cards a few times each to get a good read and post what their preferred tints are.

Matches obtained at paint stores are notoriously inaccurate, and could easily be off by 10+ points in any direction. Operators aren't well trained, spectros are seldom warmed up and calibrated properly, pigment dispensers are worn, etc. I'm not saying it's impossible to get an accurate match from a paint store, and your mileage may vary. But I'd cross-check by taking them a painted sample of the formula they come up with after it dries, and see if they arrive at the same formula.


Garry
 
#156 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mech /forum/post/12031352


gbr,


Have you sent those samples yet?



And I see Todd has been a bit busy reposting data from EasyRGB.com. Good for him!
I don't catch his posts unless someone quotes him!



And so far from what I have gathered/tested you are absolutely correct!



Plus you would think it should be posted in the neutral thread...



mech


procrastinating again, sorry mech



my plasma blew it's power board on monday night so i spent most of this week finding it's replacement and then an inordinate amount time tweaking it since it looked like absolute garbage out of the box (sony 52w3000 flat panel lcd)


it took a ridiculous amount of time to make it look great - i desperately need my own spyder!
 
#157 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrnole /forum/post/12031420


procrastinating again, sorry mech



my plasma blew it's power board on monday night so i spent most of this week finding it's replacement and then an inordinate amount time tweaking it since it looked like absolute garbage out of the box (sony 52w3000 flat panel lcd)


it took a ridiculous amount of time to make it look great - i desperately need my own spyder!

Ouch! Sorry to hear about that! How old was the plasma?


mech
 
#158 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by prof55 /forum/post/12031401


Matches obtained at paint stores are notoriously inaccurate, and could easily be off by 10+ points in any direction. Operators aren't well trained, spectros are seldom warmed up and calibrated properly, pigment dispensers are worn, etc. I'm not saying it's impossible to get an accurate match from a paint store, and your mileage may vary. But I'd cross-check by taking them a painted sample of the formula they come up with after it dries, and see if they arrive at the same formula.


Garry

i understand garry but the reason why i mentioned lowes is because they have those colors in their database matched by xrite themselves to use with varous lowes bases (valspar signature, valspar, olympic and american tradition) with each base using different tint values to get the color.


nothing can be perfect when you mix color - heck the first time i had laura ashley winter wind mixed up the mixing machine was a mile off and we had to do it over with the other machine in the store but they computer data they have is at least as if it were lowes own color and not just a card scan and match.


i have a couple of samples to send to mech to be verified though.
 
#160 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrnole /forum/post/12031455


i understand garry but the reason why i mentioned lowes is because they have those colors in their database matched by xrite themselves to use with varous lowes bases (valspar signature, valspar, olympic and american tradition) with each base using different tint values to get the color.


nothing can be perfect when you mix color - heck the first time i had laura ashley winter wind mixed up the mixing machine was a mile off and we had to do it over with the other machine in the store but they computer data they have is at least as if it were lowes own color and not just a card scan and match.


i have a couple of samples to send to mech to be verified though.

I have two sets of Gray Screen, Soothing White, Winter Mist, and Winter Mountain, with several more on the way. I'm actually working on store variance on the side, as well as curing time.


So far though, RGB-wise, nothing is off more than a couple points from what EasyRGB shows. But like Garry said, there's going to be store variance. That's a given especially for those who go to True Value and they use the mechanical machine as opposed to the computer machine in use elsewhere. The only question is, how much? The more samples I get, the better we'll be able tell. I'm going to check out some Ace Hardware's as well.


mech
 
#161 ·
As I mentioned earlier, the best way to cross-check is to buy the paint, make a sample, and have the same store test it. If they don't come up with the same formula, something is wrong!


Also, be sure that they realize you are looking for a 100% match. Many store spectros are set to find the closest match to a "named" color, and if this is the case, a rather broad range of samples will generate the same formula.


Garry
 
#162 ·
lowes was a 100% match. they pulled up the manufacturer, color palette, paint name, code the whole 9 yards. this isn't a scan of a color card these are computer values in their database provided to them by xrite for an (what i can only assume it to be since xrite generated them) exact match.
 
#163 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by prof55 /forum/post/12031546


As I mentioned earlier, the best way to cross-check is to buy the paint, make a sample, and have the same store test it. If they don't come up with the same formula, something is wrong!


Also, be sure that they realize you are looking for a 100% match. Many store spectros are set to find the closest match to a "named" color, and if this is the case, a rather broad range of samples will generate the same formula.


Garry

Not to mention some store's spectros may be a bit out of calibration!



mech
 
#164 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrnole /forum/post/12031617


lowes was a 100% match. they pulled up the manufacturer, color palette, paint name, code the whole 9 yards. this isn't a scan of a color card these are computer values in their database provided to them by xrite for an (what i can only assume it to be since xrite generated them) exact match.

EasyRGB has the Munsell colors and codes. Lowes should be able to call them up then and mix them.
 
#165 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy /forum/post/11998757


I am getting slight hotspotting with this paint, and I'm thinking it's because it's too smooth. (See my comments above.)


I'm considering trying a 10 mm roller for another coat, instead of the 5 mm I used before. 15 mm would be pushing it though. What do you think? Or would 10 mm give me too much texture?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy /forum/post/12006280


Hmmm... Maybe it's a false alarm. It seems better now, a day later. I suspect it's because it's had the whole day to cure.


Immediately after painting, it was unwatchable - sparklies.

An hour later it was still odd looking.

Many hours later it seemed dry but slight hotspotting was there.

Now a day later it seems much better.


I will take a flash picture later to see what it looks like.


However, I still wonder if Sherwin Williams (and other companies) are "cheating" with their washable matte paints. These mattes seem distinctly eggshell-like, just less so, and are not like the mattes of yesteryear.

I went to N7 Behr, and then came back to N8 Sherwin Williams Gray Screen. Well, I'm now one day later after that new paint job again, this time with 6 mm rollers (just because that's what was available at the store).


I agree with tiddler it may take more time to cure, but I do see very mild hot-spotting with bright images with the SW Gray Screen using the Duration Home base. With N7 Behr UPW 1050 Flat, any hotspotting was absent after just a few hours of drying time.


It could be partially the different colour I don't know, but I'm now convinced that at least part of it is due to the slightly more prominent sheen to Duration home. I think SW may be cheating with its "Matte" label for Duration Home so they can advertise superior washability against competing matte/flat paints. It just isn't that "matte" compared to some other matte paints, like Behr "Flat".


Overall, I think the image is good, but in the future I may repaint the wall with an N8 Behr UPW Flat.


To summarize, I do like Sherwin Williams Gray Screen, and its washability is a plus. However, to reduce hotspotting (which admittedly is quite minor with SW Gray Screen), one might want to consider a true flat paint like the Behr UPW 1050. Washability will suffer, as may gain to a certain extent, but at least you have the choice. I personally am not interested in using a clear top coat, not just because of the potential colour shift, but also because of the potential for increased hotspotting.
 
#166 ·
Hey guys haven't been around in awhile but doing another screen for a buddy and chasing the RS Lite components is just to much of a chore and I only help these guys for beer so, couple of questions?


1) Thinking of using Winter Mist as a True Value right down the street and assuming you use flat.


2) Will topcoat with the Behr and Folk Art but a little confused which Folk Art Pearl is sold at Walmart and is that the prefered pearl.


3) We used to use water to thin the paint is that out now? Assume you need no water with the topcoat mix.


4) If we coat the wall with 4 coats of Winter Mist does it even need to be primed?


Projector is an Optima HD 70 and yes the mix needs to tolerate some can light in the room cause our crew does not like total darkness and that was the strength of RS Lite cause that mix loved a bit of light.


Thx for the help.
 
#167 ·
I no longer recommend using pearl clear coats.
 
#169 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbes /forum/post/12167596


Tiddler, thx. I assume the topcoat is gonna give you a little more pop on the screen, is that correct?

IMHO, yes it does. Just be aware that it also have the effect of lightening the overall shade of gray.


Some folks have had some difficulty applying the pearl clear coats, resulting in some streaks. That is why I am a little leery of recommending it at this time.


I will be helping a neighbor repaint and I am pretty sure we will be applying a Pearlizing Clear Coat. At that time I may feel more confident in recommending the pearl clear coats.
 
#170 ·
I will be receiving my Mits HC1500 in a couple of days and want to get started on samples but have a few questions. And yes I read the whole thread
. I want to create a gray screen. I have some gray Walmart paint (ColorPlace 96111/Fired Steel Latex Satin) that I have and can play around with. It is a hair lighter than the Elite Matt Gray (dark gray) sample I have. Would guess it to be something like N6-7, very hard to compare against laptop monitor. I could add neutral white for lighter shades if need be. I have white matte vinyl (pleather-like) as the base.


- Where are the EasyFlex #s posted? I see for example references to EF 06, etc. but have no idea what it means.

- Does adding Folkart Metallic Pearl White help with improving viewing cone as experienced earlier by tiddler?

- Does the Pearl coat bring white levels up closer to what it could look like with a white screen while providing deeper blacks w/ the darker gray shades?

- What are the differences between Folkart Metallic Pearl #659 and Pearlizing Medium #487?
 
#172 ·
Did you have a chance to compare against a white material? I should be receiving my projector tomorrow or Wed. Can't wait. I created 2 samples w/ the paint mentioned above, Poly and Poly/Pearl two coats each. Also have the wall (same gray color) no top coats as well as Stewart Grayhawk, Studiotek samples, and the white vinyl material. Hopefully I can come up w/ something...


I also have HCFR and Calman w/ D2.
 
#173 ·
This is my only TV now, so I went for the gray to be able to watch it during the day. In a completely light controlled environment I might be tempted to go with an N9 or a white, but as a compromise, the N8 works great for me.


I also have an i1D2 and HCFR with GetGray and posted my first run over at the calibration forum. The trouble is, I only have a composite DVD player for Get Gray and do most of my viewing on an H21-200 DirecTV over HDMI and there are some differences. Over component, with my settings listed on the other thread, black at 0% was dithering with brightness at 0. Moving brightness down to -2 cleaned it up. On HDMI with the exact same settings, brightness at 0 does not dither. Go figure.


I really need an HD-DVD player!


Anyway, if you haven't seen the HC1500 in action, you have a real treat ahead.
 
#174 ·
Tiddler,


Thanks for all the hard work. Having gone through all the threads...I am a little confused now as to what is the final conclusion on grey paint if any ?


I actually like the photos / screen samples you provided earlier on in the thread and am happy with those results.


1. What is the easyflex formula for those ? EasyFlex-06 or 10 ? Or would you rather recommend something else ?

2. I see a lot of numbers - EF-06, EF-10 etc. Can you please post or point me to all the formula's ?

3. Based on the passionate discussion on Neutral Grey's - can I also go with the SW Grey Screen ? Or Behr Silver Screen ?


4. I just plan to do two coats of Grey and a poly coat.


Cheers
 
#176 ·
Thanks ! So I can just got to Lowe's / Home Depot and ask them to mix in this custom tint in a Quart of Behr #4580 with


Lamp Black 0 10 1

Brown Oxide 0 2 0

Medium Yellow 0 1 0


This would be the N8 mix ? Or do I need something from Xrite as well?

And then a coat of Poly on top of this ?
 
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