HDTV Screen – High Quality and Very Low Cost - Page 10 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #271 of 1284 Old 01-26-2002, 02:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tom_Bombadil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Old Forest
Posts: 3,735
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I was lucky enough to have take my pick of 50+ sheets of ParkLand Poly-Wall at my local Home Depot. So I went down to the 5th sheet, to get one that had no flaws and was perfectly flat.

I suspect it might take a while for the material to fully "relax" back to a flat state after shipped in a tight roll. You might want to consider purchasing a sheet of MDF to lay on it. Might have to buy two sheets of it if you have a 5x8 or 5x10. I think having a heavy, flat sheet applying a balanced, equal downward pressure on the Parkland is going to work better than trying to flatten out smaller spots with books or boards or whatever. You could later use the MDF behind the ParkLand if desired.

I can attest that once it is flat, it lays very nice & flat. I used my 4'x8' to build two movable screens which are as smooth and flat as they can be. My total cost was $29.45 .

Tom
Tom_Bombadil is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #272 of 1284 Old 01-26-2002, 02:52 PM
Senior Member
 
Juno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Well, I for one am a little irritated right now.
I paid for 2nd day air delivery for a larger sheet than the one I have now.

Nicole at Parkland assured me it would go out this past Wed. and be here by Friday. Obviously it's now Sat. and no sheet.

I'll be giving them a call bright and early Monday morning.

Juno

For I AM PERSUADED...Rom. 8:38-39
Juno is offline  
post #273 of 1284 Old 01-26-2002, 03:05 PM
TEW
AVS Special Member
 
TEW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
hey Juno,
Uh, dont' take this personally, but you're being a bit anal.
She might have missed the Wed shipment. Regular UPS doesn't deliver on Sat, in which case it would arrive on Monday.
The people at Parkland have been very good to everyone thus far. I'm surprised they'll even send out individual sheets. A large manufacturer can't make that much money selling these piece by piece at twently bucks a pop.
If they start getting complainers, they might stop dealing with us altogether.
Give her a couple of days and be polite if you call.

Don't PM me - use my email:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

My theater room:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TEW is offline  
post #274 of 1284 Old 01-27-2002, 06:32 AM
Member
 
SpacedGhost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Loveland CO
Posts: 108
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hello all

I know that on this thread people have talked about painting the screen's made from this material but........ Has anyone had any success? I am going to be making one of these sceens, but I would like to paint it gray using regular paint or maybe KBK's product. If anyone has done this I would love to hear your comments and suggestions.

Thanks again

SG

" New? No honey we've had that forever"
SpacedGhost is offline  
post #275 of 1284 Old 01-27-2002, 12:40 PM
Senior Member
 
Juno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
TEW,
First of all, you are correct, at times I can be a bit "anal". I'm in the service industry and If I say something's going to be in on such and such day, it better be or it's my butt. I guess I expect everyone to be that way.

I'll hold off a few days and see what happens. Thanks for the adjustment.

BTW, as far as direct sale goes, if a manufacturer that normally sells in bulk, sells 1 and 2 apiece at an additional 45% profit, he will more than make up the loss in not selling bulk. In cases like that a mfr. usually makes an estimated product run to keep on hand for the per pieces sales. At least the smart ones do.

The people at Parkland were extremely happy at the response to this material. Don't get me wrong, I'm really excited that they are willing to sell to us directly, but I am still the customer and it is my money and countless others money that they want.
IMHO FWIW.

Respectfully,
Juno =0)

Nonetheless atttitude adjusted. Thank you.

For I AM PERSUADED...Rom. 8:38-39
Juno is offline  
post #276 of 1284 Old 01-27-2002, 01:15 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tom_Bombadil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Old Forest
Posts: 3,735
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:


Originally posted by SpacedGhost
Hello all

I know that on this thread people have talked about painting the screen's made from this material but........ Has anyone had any success? I am going to be making one of these sceens, but I would like to paint it gray using regular paint or maybe KBK's product. If anyone has done this I would love to hear your comments and suggestions.

SG

Haven't tried painting mine. But, frankly, if I wanted a gray screen I wouldn't have used the Poly-Wall in the first place. It is simple enough to find material that is flat and paintable. To me, one of the big pluses of the ParkLand material is that the surface was usable "as is" and didn't require painting or treating in any way.

The matte-side surface of the Poly-Wall does seem to have sufficient texture to hold paint. But I don't remember anything on their website or on the label stated it was paintable - even for it's intended use in homes. None of their pictures show painted panels. That could be due to a lack of imagination on their part.

I'd try a bit of paint on a scrap piece, except I had no scrap leftover from my project. The sheets are so cheap, that maybe one of us with easy access to them will play around with painting a piece.

Maybe we can persuade them to add something to their plastic mix to produce light gray panels :-).

Tom
Tom_Bombadil is offline  
post #277 of 1284 Old 01-27-2002, 02:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tom_Bombadil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Old Forest
Posts: 3,735
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Speaking of the stuff being cheap!

Pulled out the Menards ad from my Sunday paper. On page 3, they show a guy putting up a sheet of Plas-Tex Poly-Wall Panel ... on sale this week for just $10.88 per 4'x8' sheet.

If you've got a Menards near you, then check it out. If you don't know, go to www.menards.com, click on "Store Locator" and enter your zip code. They will tell you if there is a store within 150 miles of you.

You can see the ad if you click on "Weekly Ad." It will come up with small images of pages 1 & 2. Check on the right arrow for "next". It will show pages 3&4. Click on the image of page 3. Scroll to bottom of page, there it is in the center.

Tom
Tom_Bombadil is offline  
post #278 of 1284 Old 01-28-2002, 07:49 AM
Senior Member
 
NathanP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA
Posts: 311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Guys, I'm just getting around to doing a screen- I've nailed it down to these two-

Drywall with primer and Behr Ultra-White, Or the Parkland Plastics Screen?

Which would give better results?

I have a Sony 7220 CRT projector, 300-400 lumens, will be placed 10 feet away from the screen (on the ground), screen size will be around 72 inches instead of 100.

It's really a throw up because I've got all the essentials of the more expensive drywall screen in the basement, but the Parkland Plastics Screen is cheap also..

Tell me what you think.

Thanks,
Nathan

I will soon be purchasing:
Dayton 15" DVC
Pioneer 811
Sound Clearing House Speakers
CRT projector
DVD/HDCD Player

And a bunch more useless processors...
NathanP is offline  
post #279 of 1284 Old 01-28-2002, 10:34 AM
Member
 
CWan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Nathan,

I noticed that you live in the St. Louis area. If so, go to page 2 of this thread. Someone in the St. Louis area found a local store that carries Parkland Polywall sheets. If you can buy locally, it's cheap (~$13.00 for one 4x8) to get a piece and try it out. Besides, you can pick one that's perfectly flat and no damage.

Charles
CWan is offline  
post #280 of 1284 Old 01-28-2002, 01:15 PM
Senior Member
 
NathanP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA
Posts: 311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


I spoke to Parkland today on the phone and they said Home Depot carries their products in the St. Louis area. I called the Watson Road store and they have the material in stock in the Mill Work section. I haven't been by yet to verify it's the right stuff.

This'll be cheaper then buying all that paint..

I probably passed it up but: How much gain amount does this screen have?

Nathan

I will soon be purchasing:
Dayton 15" DVC
Pioneer 811
Sound Clearing House Speakers
CRT projector
DVD/HDCD Player

And a bunch more useless processors...
NathanP is offline  
post #281 of 1284 Old 01-28-2002, 02:29 PM
Member
 
Island Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Guam
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Nathan,

It seems the screen has a gain of 1.0... same as the DaLite white matte screen.(without the cost!) Read earlier in this thread about some guys who have done comparisons between the two/

Mike
Island Mike is offline  
post #282 of 1284 Old 01-28-2002, 04:48 PM
Newbie
 
KenLim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
hello, all!
I'm about to take the plunge and get some Polywall 4X8 at my local Home Depot.
I've already checked it out....problem is that every piece I checked had many small dimples 3-7 mm across and probably 1 mm deep on the back side. from re-reading all the posts it looks like people have used both the front [slightly textured, shinier] and back [matte, smooth] sides of this material. Which side works better? If the back/matte side is preferred, do U all have dimples in it? do they distract from the PQ/viewing? Should I try to find a smoother piece?

For those of U who ordered direct from Parkland, did yours have dimples as well? [The piece I get from HD will be trial only, since if this is as good as you all say, I will order a 5x10 piece direct].

thanks for responses. I will post my comparisons to my current 6x10' screen [Behr Ultra Pure white eggshell on 1/8" masonboard]. I also have samples of all Da-Lite & Stewart screen materials.

Ken Lim
KenLim is offline  
post #283 of 1284 Old 01-28-2002, 05:38 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tom_Bombadil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Old Forest
Posts: 3,735
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:


Originally posted by KenLim
hello, all!
I'm about to take the plunge and get some Polywall 4X8 at my local Home Depot.
I've already checked it out....problem is that every piece I checked had many small dimples 3-7 mm across and probably 1 mm deep on the back side. from re-reading all the posts it looks like people have used both the front [slightly textured, shinier] and back [matte, smooth] sides of this material. Which side works better? If the back/matte side is preferred, do U all have dimples in it? do they distract from the PQ/viewing? Should I try to find a smoother piece?

That sounds like their other product, "Plas-Tex NRP". It is thicker (.090") and has small dimples on one side. The Poly-Wall product is .060" with one side with a classic matte white, slightly tectured side and a smooth side (made for gluing). The smooth side will have the label on that side. You could try using the smooth side, although it will more susceptible to hot-spotting.

Take a close look at the label on the sheet you have. If it is the wrong one, it should state "Plas-Tex NRP" somewhere, that it is .090" thick, and is Pewter White. The right product will state "Poly Wall", .060" thick, and Matte white.

Personally, I would not use either side of the NRP product for a screen. My sheet of Poly-Wall has no dimples on either side.

Tom
Tom_Bombadil is offline  
post #284 of 1284 Old 01-28-2002, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Ron Geyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ken: You probably have the right product. My sheet I found at Lowe's is Plas-Tex .060 x 4 x 8 and it had dimples on the back side. For sure, you don't want to project on that side. Use the slightly textured side, it works great.
Ron Geyer is offline  
post #285 of 1284 Old 01-28-2002, 08:09 PM
Member
 
harristl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi Guys,

I've been reading this thread for weeks and finally purchased a 5x8 sheet a couple of weeks ago directly from the company. I agree that the finish and color are very nice for the price. My problem is the material itself. Although a few have mentioned "bubbles" or "bulges" in the material, mine was simply not usable as a screen material due to imperfections in the material. Not only were there scratches and blemishes in the finish, but there was simply no way to flatten the material for use on a screen.

First I allowed the material to lay flat for two days to unroll from shipping. Although it was generally flat, it was still impossible to attach it to a wooden frame without large bulges. I have since tried using Liquid Nails adhesive to mount the material directly to 1/4" hardboard. Even after a couple of hours with a rolling pin, there are simply too many bulges and wrinkles for the screen to be usable.

Overall, I think I'll stick with my good old fashioned blackout screen until I decide to splurge on the real thing!

Tori Harris
Consultant,
Palmetto Home Cinema
harristl is offline  
post #286 of 1284 Old 01-29-2002, 06:22 AM
Newbie
 
BigJimS35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
It sounds like you guys have found a great product to do front screen projection (If I'm understanding correctly), but I need to do Rear Projection. Has anyone come accross a piece of some kind of plastic that works well?

Jim
BigJimS35 is offline  
post #287 of 1284 Old 01-29-2002, 06:45 AM
Member
 
CWan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am finally ready to try to glue the Parkland sheet on to a plywood panel. I have a question on using Liquid Nails: Should I use a caulking gun to squeeze liquid nails onto the plywood in parallel lines. Do I then use some spreader to spread the adhensive evenly before putting down the sheet? Or can I just put the sheet down without spreading the adhensive, but use a laminate roller to press the sheet?

Thanks for your help!
CWan is offline  
post #288 of 1284 Old 01-29-2002, 08:51 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,916
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Liked: 63
Been thinking about this abit (as my sheets have arrived) and I am thinking a spray adhesive would be the best. A thin sprayed layer would be very uniform and introduce no bumps or other problems. Time for a trip to the local Home Depot to see what they have/suugest.
Tedd is offline  
post #289 of 1284 Old 01-29-2002, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Ron Geyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Originally posted by CWan
I am finally ready to try to glue the Parkland sheet on to a plywood panel. I have a question on using Liquid Nails: Should I use a caulking gun to squeeze liquid nails onto the plywood in parallel lines. Do I then use some spreader to spread the adhensive evenly before putting down the sheet? Or can I just put the sheet down without spreading the adhensive, but use a laminate roller to press the sheet?

Thanks for your help!

You need to use a "v" spreader and cover the entire board with adhesive. When using the sprerader, make sure you only have the v showing with adhesive. Too much adhesive will not leave your sheet flat.

I used Weldwood Contact Cement and the results were great. I painted it on to both surfaces, waited 30 min. and put the two surfaces together (started at the top and rolled down). Perfectly flat with now bulges. As for spray adhesive -- forget this. I tryed a sample piece and the adhesive is not strong enough. The bulges kept lifting off.

Hope this helps. Ron
Ron Geyer is offline  
post #290 of 1284 Old 01-29-2002, 02:26 PM
Member
 
CWan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ron,

By "v spreader", do you mean something like this:
http://doityourself.com/store/6303267.htm
(I found this picture by doing a search at yahoo.)

Does Home Depot have Weldwood Contact Cement and v spreader?

Many thanks! Wow, this forum is great!!

Charles
CWan is offline  
post #291 of 1284 Old 01-29-2002, 05:28 PM
Member
 
Bill Wilkins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: West Branch, MI
Posts: 172
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Cwan,

You don't want to use a v spreader if you are going to use Weldwood contact cement. The contact cement is liquid. They sell a special roller for the contact cement which is hard and has no nap as a paint roller would. For the contact cement you want to roll it out evenly (thin coat-just enough to get the surface wet) on the plywood surface and on the Parkland sheet. You then let the surface on both pieces air-dry until it is almost dry.

Being very careful(get an extra set of hands or two) and start squarely at one end of the plywood and then lay it down the rest of the length of the plywood. It is very important to start squarely as once the Weldwood adheres the Parkland to the plywood you cannot move it. It is there permanently. If you
don't have an extra set of hands you can use a bunch of 1/2" dowels across the surface of the plywood and lay the Parkland on top of the dowels. Start at one end, keeping the sheets square, and remove the dowels as you work your way down. The dowels need to be close enough(maybe 4-6") to one another that the two surfaces do not touch. If they touch, their stuck together.

The "v" tool would be used if you intend on using liquid nails, or some other adhesive. You would not need to put the liquid nails on the Parkland, just the plywood would be sufficient. Liquid nails may be the better route to take if you have not had experience with contact cement(nasty stuff). Yes the picture you showed is a v spreader.

Bill

Bill Wilkins

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Bill Wilkins is offline  
post #292 of 1284 Old 01-29-2002, 05:54 PM
Member
 
CWan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks, Bill.

You answered my question before I had a chance to post it:

"It is very important to start squarely as once the Weldwood adheres the Parkland to the plywood you cannot move it. It is there permanently."

Charles
CWan is offline  
post #293 of 1284 Old 01-29-2002, 10:34 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Carl Brinkman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hilton Head Island, SC
Posts: 1,880
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
My homebrew screen was finished today just about the time the DHL truck pulled up with my new Marantz pj.

I used a 4x8 panel of 2" foam insulation as a substrate with the white parkland vinyl on one side and a piece of grey frp on the other side. The grey side proves better in high ambient light viewing and after dark the white looks best. The foam is light weight and makes it easy to switch sides and move it from room to room. I used 3M spray adhesive to fasten both faces and found no problem at all. But then both were very flat to begin with. The spray adhesive is much the easiest.

As decent as the pq is I'm still ordering a Firehawk for my primary viewing. But the homebrew wasn't a waste of time, it helped answer the screen size issue, much smaller than I would have guessed. In less than relative darkness the Marantz is still not bright enough for a 100" screen. In my case I decided to get only an 82" screen and view with more ambient light.

Can't wait until springtime, my homebrew will make a killer outdoor screen out by the pool. We already have the receiver, speakers and TV set up, the projector and screen will be the finishing touch.
Carl Brinkman is offline  
post #294 of 1284 Old 01-30-2002, 01:02 PM
Senior Member
 
shadowpuppet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Originally posted by Carl Brinkman
...and a piece of grey frp on the other side. The grey side proves better in high ambient light viewing and after dark the white looks best.

what's "gray frp?"
shadowpuppet is offline  
post #295 of 1284 Old 01-30-2002, 02:24 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Carl Brinkman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hilton Head Island, SC
Posts: 1,880
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
frp is fiberglass reinforced plastic. Home depot sells it for paneling walls in their trim and molding section. Its shiny and bumpy on the primary side but a flat grey on the reverse. The flat surface is not as uniform as the Parkland material though.

Parkland may make their vinyl panels in a grey but after reading of all the issues mentioned here about trying to flatten the rolled up panels I decided not to even ask them. It's much easier to just buy them flat to begin with.
Carl Brinkman is offline  
post #296 of 1284 Old 01-30-2002, 03:27 PM
Member
 
mrstormy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Well, I've been reading the threads and stumbled across this one while at work. Stopped at Lowe's on the way home and lo and behold, I found the Bright White! $13.77. The had about 20 of them.

Now, I have narrowed my pj choices to the Piano or the NEC LT150 or 150Z. Heavily weighed the pros and cons of each of these pr's and just can't decide. Anyone know the best place and street price of the discontinued LT150?

Anyway, gonna get two panel this weekend and put something together. Their 8*4 and not 5*10 BUT, they are flat!!!

Any other HT enthusiasts in the Tampa area?

Regards,

Rick

------------------------
Rick Lepper
mrstormy is offline  
post #297 of 1284 Old 01-31-2002, 05:16 AM
Senior Member
 
Tom Carey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: MA
Posts: 361
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I ordered the Parkland plastic, and have left it out flat for a week. It has some bulges that do not look promising. I was planning on gluing it straight to the wall in my new basement room, but am having second thoughts because of the bulges. My likely screen size will be about 51 x 91. I suppose I could go to 48 x 85.

I have also ordered some of Ken's goo (a spray-on screen material. See posts of KBK). This promises to increase the gain while using a gray paint for better blacks. I have a piano in transit now.

Should I:

1. Glue the plastic to the wall and paint it with goo?
2. Just paint the wall with goo and forget the plastic?
3. Glue the plastic to some intermediate surface and attach it to the wall? (Potential WAF problem here. How to keep it looking good?)
4. Paint some other material and attach it to the wall?

All advice welcome. Thanks very much.
Tom Carey is offline  
post #298 of 1284 Old 01-31-2002, 07:15 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Carl Brinkman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hilton Head Island, SC
Posts: 1,880
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Using the Parkland plastic for the screen goo will give you a flatter and smoother surface than just painting any wall I've ever seen.

Using the plastic on a substrate should give you a higher WAF not lower. You can surround it with a classsy looking molding covered with velvet or flocking that will both look good and absorb any stray light from overscan etc.

And you never know when you might to move the screen location.
Carl Brinkman is offline  
post #299 of 1284 Old 01-31-2002, 10:16 AM
Member
 
siliconrave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've been hunting for "cheap", "homemade" screens, or ideas. WOW, this sounds great. Can't wait to try it. Thanx a bunch guys.

Smoke Test!
siliconrave is offline  
post #300 of 1284 Old 01-31-2002, 10:40 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Pocatello's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho USA
Posts: 1,183
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Dave ...

The Home Depot in Poky did not have the right kind of material... they had a product from Parkland Plastics, but it was the .090", not the .060 stuff.

Check the HD in Idaho Falls and let me know, okay? Thanks!

Pocatello
Pocatello is offline  
Reply DIY Screen Section

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off