HDTV Screen – High Quality and Very Low Cost - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 1284 Old 11-09-2003, 02:43 PM
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chap...
mdf is multi-density fiberboard. It's kind of like the particle board used for cheap dressers and entertainment centers, except more heavy-duty (I believe).

I just picked up some parkland, yesterday, and I was really suprised by what it was. I guess I had no idea, but I figured it was much more like sheeting by how people were saying that it had to be "glued" to a frame/board and that it sagged if you didn't do it correctly.
I got mine at Home Depot in Springfield, MO (if anyone in the area is looking for some) for $13.88. The number in the register is 179646 and it's labeled as "poly wht". It's kind of interesting, because the sticker on the sheet says Parkland .060 bleh bleh bleh, but the tag on the shelf said "Do-able" which is what else I was looking for. I'm guessing that I got the right stuff and it seems to work well. I don't have the screen finished, yet. I hope to tonight.
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post #722 of 1284 Old 11-10-2003, 02:05 PM
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Has anyone compared their parkland screen to parkland covered with a 'Goosystems' paint? I have also seen a person on eBay selling a screen cloth to use with a black velvet material behind it. Has anyone used something like this; a screen material in front of a dark material to absorb the dark colors, to improve contrast? My reason for asking this is I will be using a Panasonic projector with 1600 lumens but a 300:1 contrast ratio and am thinking that the contrast will need to be improved. Would the plain Parkland be my cheapest, best bet? Thanks in advance for the help.

-Jonathan
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post #723 of 1284 Old 11-10-2003, 03:05 PM
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sirjonjk...
Any black bordering will help "perceived" contrast. It doesn't actually change the contrast, but makes your brain think it does. It's nicer to have a wider boarder (2" window trim is common) so if you went with a big dark material, it would do the same, in fact, it would give the screen a "floaty" effect. I would think that the parkland would be the "cheapest" given that it was only $14 for me, but I think blackout cloth is also like $5/yard, so that's a fair price. Different paints (including goo) can alter the gain/color/etc... of the screen. I'm just using plain parkland, though.
JJ
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post #724 of 1284 Old 11-10-2003, 06:48 PM
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what the guy was telling me about is a white screen cloth that actually allows some light to pass through it. the black material that is behind the whole white cloth absorbs whatever light that comes through the translucent first layer. Basically a white sheet over a black sheet. I dont know what material the first layer is; something 'special' since he is listing it on eBay and trying to sell it to me. I was looking for someone who may have used this technique before, and had some experience with how good it was.
Thanks

-Jonathan
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post #725 of 1284 Old 11-10-2003, 07:27 PM
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Just an FYI. I went to Home Depot and they did not have the Parkland Plastics material. I went over to Menards and they did have the material...HOWEVER, the price was $39.99 per panel.

Earlier in the thread someone mentioned that you can get it shipped from Parkland direct for $25-30...I don't know why it is priced so high at Menards but I passed.

I'm in Cedar Rapids, Iowa...I guess I'll order direct from Parkland. Thank you all who have contributed to this thread...I am not even half way through but have learned a lot so far.

-Jesse
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post #726 of 1284 Old 11-10-2003, 08:16 PM
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sirjonjk...
With some fabrics, light will pass through. Blackout cloth shouldn't let any light through, as it has a rubber backing, and parkland shouldn't let any through, as it's solid pvc(?). I can't say for other materials, but it is common, when building a frame, to have the support boards not directly touch the fabric, as they are easier to see when directly touching. I would surmise that light passthrough could be common, then.
JJ
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post #727 of 1284 Old 11-13-2003, 04:59 PM
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My local HD has the Parkland panels ($16 a pop) and I'm about to pick one up.

Has anyone tried to use two of them to achieve a larger screen size? The 48 x 85 dimensions posted (based on one 4 x 8 panel) results in a diagonal measurement of about 97", but I'd like a screen that's around 120", based on planned viewing distance. If the panels are fairly rigid and consistently flat, perhaps the seam would hardly be visible. Otherwise, I'd need to use some type of filler, a bead of elmer's glue, or maybe a strip of white tape.
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post #728 of 1284 Old 11-13-2003, 05:56 PM
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Mark,

Parkland has a 5 x 10 sheet you can order direct. Used to be fairly reasonable, but there have been posts that the price has gone up.

I would not recommend a seam - no matter how you filled it, there will be a change in reflectance at the seam & it will probably always show.

You might consider just projecting on a smooth wall. After building a Parkland screen, I compared it to the wall painted with Beher Ultra Pure White. There was not enough difference to keep the screen up.

Wish I had done it before I built the screen!

Snowman
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post #729 of 1284 Old 11-13-2003, 06:39 PM
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I would use a wall, but the only place for the screen in our living room is in front of the window (I'm going to either hinge it from the ceiling or make it portable). I read some more of this mammoth thread and the 5 x 8 pieces are apparently $60. I'll stick with the 4 x 8... which will yield a brighter image anyway.
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post #730 of 1284 Old 11-18-2003, 06:29 AM
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Just noticed accidentally that this thread is still running and will be two years old tomorrow. Happy birthday!!!
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post #731 of 1284 Old 11-18-2003, 12:01 PM
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Got mine setup now. Used Parkland plastic, 3M Spray Adhesive and 1/4" foamboard from Pearl Art. Then for the trim, I got some mirror edging from Home Depot and cut it to size. Total cost is around $40. Looks fan-tastic with my Dell 3200MP!

Thanks for all the hints guys!
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post #732 of 1284 Old 11-18-2003, 01:35 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by BobbySteel
Got mine setup now. Used Parkland plastic, 3M Spray Adhesive and 1/4" foamboard from Pearl Art. Then for the trim, I got some mirror edging from Home Depot and cut it to size. Total cost is around $40. Looks fan-tastic with my Dell 3200MP!

Thanks for all the hints guys!

What's mirror edging?
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post #733 of 1284 Old 11-18-2003, 06:14 PM
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Can you use this matieral without tensioning this stuff onto a frame? Can you just hang it up or build a simple frame and/or border mask?

Anybody in Canada, more specifically, Toronto area, use this Parkland material as a screen?

Anybody compare it to Blackout material?

Just curious.
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post #734 of 1284 Old 11-18-2003, 10:03 PM
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Great thread! I finally purchased my own home and i will be putting a home theater together. Has anyone made a how to guide for dummies on this parkland screen. That would be great for us newbies, Some step by step pictures and text. What is the consensus for the best pj to use with this screen
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post #735 of 1284 Old 11-19-2003, 08:19 AM
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cpc...
I just have the sheet screwed into my wall. I just spray painted some window trim black and used them for borders.
manufanatic...
No step/step instructions, but I have a lot of pictures of putting together the parkland screen at www.anti-exe.com/theater/construction It was actually a fairly simple task and I'm not very handy. Maybe 3-4 hours at the most
I'm using an infocus x1.
JJ
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post #736 of 1284 Old 11-19-2003, 10:53 AM
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Very cool doubleJ .. I'll check it out. I may post pictures of my screen frame
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post #737 of 1284 Old 11-21-2003, 05:31 AM
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Hi All,

This really is an interesting thread, but between this and the thread on Gator Board I don't see a single reference to people going to eBay and buying the Screen material being sold for $24.95 plus $15.00 for shipping. Am I missing something? Isn't it better to buy actual screen material and stretch it over the frames that so many people here are already taking the time to build?
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post #738 of 1284 Old 11-21-2003, 07:00 AM
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Steve,

I would rather find a local material. No telling what condition a screen from ebay will arrive in and it's likely not returnable.

I've tried the Parkland plastics and Blackout fabric and for now I like the blackout fabric best.

But my favorite part is.. if either of my children or cats or even myself damage the screen I can rebuild another one any day of the week for under $30.

-Brian
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post #739 of 1284 Old 11-21-2003, 10:33 AM
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Hi Brian,

Thanks for the feedback. I just did a check with JoAnn fabrics and they do have the Blackout material for $5.99 a yard and 50% off of that through Nov 26th (discount code NOVH350) for anyone curious.....so your right this is incredibly affordable. I'll head there this weekend to pick some up. For that price there is no downside. Now all I have to do is the research to determine the best black material to edge it with!

Steve
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post #740 of 1284 Old 11-26-2003, 08:58 PM
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I've always wondered why people talk about parkland sagging and using adhesive to attach to wall or wood. Now I know. After having my parkland screwed to the wall around the edges for about 2 weeks, the middle is already starting to bow out. I may unscrew the sides and bottom and just hang from the top screws. Does anyone see a problem with that?
JJ
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post #741 of 1284 Old 11-27-2003, 01:53 PM
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Several months ago I reported that I had excellent initial success in gluing a sheet of Parkland to pegboard. That the holes in the pegboard allowed the air to escape through the back and resulted in the Parkland immediately laying down flat without any air pockets. I used a 3M spray adhensive to coat the pegboard. It was very fast and easy to do.

I promised to come back and report whether the Parkland sagged in any way so that depressions or dimples emerged over where the pegboard holes are. Well, so far, no problems whatsover. There is no visible evidence that it is any different than overlaying over a solid material. This is no surprise to me as the Parkland material is relatively stiff and the pegboard holes are quite small.

There are also no visible artifacts from the holes being behind the screen while watching movies. Again no surprise as the Parkland is a very opaque material and thus there is no meaningful back reflection to be concerned about.

I also built two small portable screens, one cut to a 50" 16:9 screen, and the other to a 60" 16:9. Both out of Parkland over pegboard. I covered both sides of the pegboard with Parkland to give the screens added strength and to counteract the tendency for a single side to bow a bit. In both cases I had one side "shiny side" out, and the other with the matte side exposed. So I can flip them around and try both.

These portable screens have worked perfectly. I've taken them and the projector to family and friends' houses to watch movies, home videos, and sporting events. They are both still quite flat and also show no evidence of sagging or depressions over the holes.

As the Parkland was only $10.88 per sheet, then on sale at Menards, I bought three sheets and had plenty to play around with. I've been quite satisfied with the results.
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post #742 of 1284 Old 11-27-2003, 07:44 PM
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Tom,thanks thats what i'm going to do . I will glue the pegboard to the matte side and project to the shiny side.A 2" fram of black felt and hang from the ceiling or put it on an easel or two.Sounds better than the $160 framed screen Jo-Ann Fabric was going to make me tn 2-3 weeks,that was at 50% off to Leyjay
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post #743 of 1284 Old 11-27-2003, 09:22 PM
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Leyjay,

I'm not certain that if you use a 4'x8' sheet of Parkland and pegboard and then allow the resultant screen to hang free, that it will remain perfectly flat. This combo does have some flex to it. My smaller portable screens, that have Parkland on front & back, and being only something like 44"x24", are pretty rigid. The larger 4'x8' is mounted up against a wall and it is doing fine. It might do okay freehanging or with a couple of supports, but I do have my concerns about it.

I like using pegboard over such things as mounting directly on the wall, because you have full adhesive coverage on the back and the final combo is easy to handle, relatively light, and easy to assemble as compared to several other alternatives. Plus it could be dismounted from the wall and moved. For my portable screens, it is perfect.
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post #744 of 1284 Old 11-28-2003, 11:55 AM
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A word on the "gain" of the Parkland material. I may have posted similar information many months ago, but do have a bit more to say now.

I've seen multiple posts in this thread and others that have stated that the gain off of the Parkland material is >1.0, with claims going as high as 1.3-1.4 for the shiny side.

I have used this material for about 18 months now. I have compared some leftover pieces to other screens, and I have carried my portable screens to other houses and propped up them up right across other screens in a sort of split-screen arrangement.

My findings have been quite consistent from test to test. In what I consider to be the most significant comparisons, split screens against Draper and Da-Lite standard 1.0 matte screens, both the shiny and matte sides of the Parkland were ever so slightly dimmer, so close that it took a little time to be sure of ourselves. Vs 1.3 gain screens, it was easy to see that it was less bright, but it was still good.

My estimate of the screen gain of the Parkland material is 0.95 .

Other observations:

Used with 1000 to 1400 lumen projectors, neither the matte or shiny side showed any hotspots.

As with other 1.0-type screens, the viewing angle is very wide, with no noticable dropoff in brightness at even very sharp angles.

Colors were quite good. This is very close to a pure white.

The material is quite solid & opaque. There is no noticable loss of brightness or image sharpness due to light bleeding through the material. I can see no reason to be concerned about the color or reflectivity of the surface behind the Parkland.
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post #745 of 1284 Old 11-29-2003, 02:43 PM
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Just wondering, given the recent "discovery" of the Carada screens, is it still worth it to pursue a DIY route?
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post #746 of 1284 Old 11-29-2003, 04:26 PM
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Carada sounds like a great deal. But it depends upon your situation as to which route you want to go. For example, I only had space for an 80" screen. I built it and a second portable screen for $30-$32 total. Hard to complain about that.
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post #747 of 1284 Old 11-30-2003, 03:23 PM
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Well I just purchased the Parkland plastic at Lowe's (mislabled) and just got through putting it on my wall. (I'm using the Sony HS10 projector).

The Parkland is just a shade lighter than my wall and at my previous settings, the picture on the Parkland looked washed out. I found that I had to increase contrast some and color a lot and decrease brightness to get a good image. At this point, I'm not totally happy with the picture, so I'm going to further tweak the picture to see what happens. (I am using the Matte side)

Did anyone else find this to be the case with the Parkland? Any suggestions on improving the image? (also, did anyone else find this material to be a total dust and hair magnet).

Thanks. Jimmy
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post #748 of 1284 Old 12-01-2003, 12:39 AM
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This Parkland product...has anyone attempted to use multiple sheets to create a larger screen?? did you seal between the two sheets or just butt them up against each other?

Did you wind up with a visible line in the picture?

Thanks,

Steve

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post #749 of 1284 Old 12-02-2003, 10:25 AM
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Jimmy-
How you mount the Parkland really affects the picture because of the bounce-back of light through the translucent Parkland sheet. Recently there was talk of painting the rear side a black or silver (depending on the power of your pj) to either absorb the transmitted light (black) or help reflect it in a more controlled fashion (the silver).

So if you mount your sheet away fropm the wall or if the wall behind it is white/bright, you can have washed out appearance if you don't coat the rear.

Something profound

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post #750 of 1284 Old 12-04-2003, 08:25 PM
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So no painting was required on the screen. I currently have blackout on a frame and was looking for some painting ideas when I came across this thread about park-land. If anyone has done anything special to the screen please let us know
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