HDTV Screen – High Quality and Very Low Cost - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 1284 Old 01-11-2002, 02:51 PM
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Originally posted by Pocatello
The Barco "Lens Program" is down loadable for free from their web site. I think it is specific to Barco only... I have a Barco 701S, and it requires the specific model number, as well as the exact lens the FP uses. I don't know if it has value to non-BARCO owners. If it does, I would like to know, as I plan on getting a Sony and an NEC soon.

Yeah, I found that out just now. As such, I'm not sure how one can get an "accurate" reading from this if one intends to use a non-Barco projector...

Anyone?
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post #182 of 1284 Old 01-11-2002, 05:16 PM
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Originally posted by Jcoffey
I noticed that you all seem to have CRTs. Will this work with LCDs as well?

Sure it will work with a LCD. Ron Geyer the person that discovered the material is using a Sony LCD.

Mike
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post #183 of 1284 Old 01-11-2002, 09:22 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Pocatello
The Barco "Lens Program" is down loadable for free from their web site. I think it is specific to Barco only... I have a Barco 701S, and it requires the specific model number, as well as the exact lens the FP uses. I don't know if it has value to non-BARCO owners. If it does, I would like to know, as I plan on getting a Sony and an NEC soon.

You are right! It is specific to Barco's for throw distance. I just used it to calculate the screen size. Select about any projector model, put in the aspect ratio and ether the width or height and it will calculate the opposite dimension and diagonal dimension based on the aspect ratio. You can to the same thing mathematic but then I would have to get out my eight grade geometry books.

Mike
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post #184 of 1284 Old 01-11-2002, 09:27 PM
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Huey I nailed mine 5 different times say every 3 inches with roofing nails and mine still sags out an 1inch or so in some places. The material in not transparent at all but you will need to spead adhesive thin and very uniform as thats how I ruined my first sheet. My second sheet had a hot spot dead smack in the middle so I painted it with Behr Primer then Ultra White Eggshell and like the results better that the original sheet as it has a touch more gain.

Chris
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post #185 of 1284 Old 01-12-2002, 08:50 PM
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What a great thread! I'm a newbie (actually not born yet)... I think I just made the decision to buy a projector now that I see it's more fun the moving a RPTV.... Talking screen size here, is it better to make the 48"x85" screen and watch 4:3 material reduced to 48"x64" OR to make a 60"x80" screen, and watch 16:9 material reduced to 45"x80"????

How easily do different projectors handle this, and does it matter which way you go? It seems it would be much easier to mask the two sides with a curtain, than mess with masking top & bottom... Do you really need to mask? What do you see if you don't?

I'm anxious to make one of these screens, all I need is a projector! Which I could find one at Lowes for $13.00!
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post #186 of 1284 Old 01-12-2002, 08:59 PM
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Oh yeah, one last thought I forgot to mention. I have used "Ritz Dye" in the past to dye plastics. It is actually a fabric dye found at most grocery stores, maybe $2. You mix it with water and dip your plastic in it, but I think you could just soak a cloth and wipe the screen with it. Let it soak in 5 minutes and wipe off. I'm pretty sure it's available in shades of gray. You have a lot of 11" cut-off pieces to experiment with... (wear plastic gloves!)

Again, I'm a "newbie", and read something about gray screens, thought I'd throw that out there.
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post #187 of 1284 Old 01-13-2002, 06:43 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by visualcnc
What a great thread! I'm a newbie (actually not born yet)... I think I just made the decision to buy a projector now that I see it's more fun the moving a RPTV.... Talking screen size here, is it better to make the 48"x85" screen and watch 4:3 material reduced to 48"x64" OR to make a 60"x80" screen, and watch 16:9 material reduced to 45"x80"????

How easily do different projectors handle this, and does it matter which way you go? It seems it would be much easier to mask the two sides with a curtain, than mess with masking top & bottom... Do you really need to mask? What do you see if you don't?

You are asking the right questions. IMO it depends on your viewing habits and the projector you select. If you watch mostly DVD's or HD then the 16:9 is definitely the right choice. For DSS, cable or OTA then 4:3 is the way to go. Personally I had a 4:3 and went with a 16:9 because in my case I only watch 99% wide screen material in the theater and I didn't like the big letter box black bars that a 4:3 screen produced and I 'am using a CRT projector that I could compress the scan lines closer together to obtain a picture that is free of any types of scan lines or pixel structure. If you go with a fixed pixel device such as a LCD or DLP then the choice gets more complicated because there are those projectors with 16:9 panels and some with 4:3 panels. I am not qualified to answer questions on those types of projectors.

Mike
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post #188 of 1284 Old 01-14-2002, 08:32 AM
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If everyone wasn't aware, Parkland is now shipping the 5'x8' and 5'x10' polywall panels. Have fun!

Bob Jones
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post #189 of 1284 Old 01-14-2002, 11:26 AM
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I will be driving down to Indianapolis next weekend from Minneapolis. I am guessing Middlebury is on the way (or a small detour).

Where can i find the original 4x8. Is there a Lowe's there that I could use.

I would love to get my hands on the nes made to order stuff, but unfortunately, I am sure that the place would be closed on the weekend.

Anand
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post #190 of 1284 Old 01-14-2002, 02:02 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by akarz
I will be driving down to Indianapolis next weekend from Minneapolis. I am guessing Middlebury is on the way (or a small detour).

Where can i find the original 4x8. Is there a Lowe's there that I could use.

I would love to get my hands on the nes made to order stuff, but unfortunately, I am sure that the place would be closed on the weekend.

Anand

akarz welcome to the forum! Well I think it would be a pretty big detour. Middlebury is in north central Indiana so you would have to go to Chicago then I80/90 about 110 miles to Middlebury exit. The problem is there are no good roads running from Middlebury to Indy so I would just order and pay the UPS man for his time, for the $10-$20 in shipping cost its not worth the trouble.

Mike
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post #191 of 1284 Old 01-14-2002, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I have written a simple program on Excel for windows that will calculate your screen size given any height or width for a HD 16:9 or standard 4:3.screen. If interested, I would be most happy to mail this to you. List in subject area Screen Calculator. (RAGEYER@aol.com)

Ron
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post #192 of 1284 Old 01-14-2002, 07:11 PM
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Am I correct to assume that I could buy a sheet of this and make a 45" x 80" (92" Diagnol) 16:9 screen? Also im curious how well it handles contrast levels for your LCD?
Chris

i have a budget bigger than my budget.

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post #193 of 1284 Old 01-14-2002, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Originally posted by xris2o0o
Am I correct to assume that I could buy a sheet of this and make a 45" x 80" (92" Diagnol) 16:9 screen? Also im curious how well it handles contrast levels for your LCD?
Chris

Chris: Yes for sure. I used the full 48" and the contrast is excellent. I taped a sample of Da-Lite's DA-MAT on this screen and the contrast is much better than their material.

Ron
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post #194 of 1284 Old 01-14-2002, 10:02 PM
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My mounting experience: (The screen that is)

My wife and I mounted the screen above a 36" high wall length bookshelf. I rested a few books on the shelf, set the Polywall on the books and "tweaked" the books underneath until I got the top of the sheet level. This way we didn't have to use tape to keep it up, which might mess up the paint. I had previously found the studs, and had marked the proper lines for the nails. I used 4 nails at the top, one on each stud (4:3 screen) and four matching nails at the bottom. Drilled a pilot hole through the screen and then nailed. We painted some 3/4" trim matte black and it fit around the edge. (used an X-acto saw to get a perfect 45 degree bevel.) Then we put 3/4" strips of velcro over the trim, which completely hid the beautiful corners.

We rent, so this solution will leave only 8 holes in the wall which we can patch easily. If I stand at an extreme angle across from a light, I can see four vertical shadows that indicate small waves or bows of the plastic. If I push the screen with my fingertips, it does give slightly at the "wave peaks", but not enough to notice at all from the front. Perhaps spray adhesive would keep a better fit. Or, better yet, silicone gel and a vacuum cleaner: suck out all the air between it and the wall!

One caveat: my projector has yet to arrive, so I don't know how it looks yet!
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post #195 of 1284 Old 01-14-2002, 10:49 PM
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Akarz and others in Minnesota: You can buy the 4x8 sheets at Menards or Home Depot(not all Home Depot's carry it). Also, mentioned above was the problem with very slight wavy imperfections in these sheets. I bought two and found these same imperfections along with spots of higher brightness(from regular room lighting). I have yet to project onto these sheets but, I am hoping for the same results as others have posted. If so, I'll order a 5x10 and ask about a 6x10.
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post #196 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 05:41 AM
 
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No waves on my formica. In fact it's so large it covers the wall switch, intercom, & alarm panel. Just gracefully curves over them.

10' diagonal, 16:9, Formica (Ice White). Trimmed with 3" baseboard, covered in black felt. 8 sheetrock screws into the wall.

Stunning.
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post #197 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 06:22 AM
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Hi,
I was wondering what we could i use as a backing for this screen. Could you use plywood or would this not stick to plywood? Use Drywall? What should i use as the adhesive? I was thinking of getting an 5'x10' and the gluing that to a backing then mounting that on a 2x4 frame. Would this work? I want to do this to work out any waves it might have. Thanks

Also, how long are they doing the 5x10 run of sheets?
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post #198 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 07:05 AM
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I'm thinking a great backing for it would be blue insulation foam thats 1\\4" to 1\\2" thick, and have it glued to the screen. Very light compaired to plywood, therefore easier to hang.....

"There's never anything worse than a Technically Frustrated Man...."
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post #199 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 08:35 AM
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then you would glue the blue foam to the 2x4 frame? What kind of glue would i use to glue the plastic to the foam and the foam to the frame?

Thanks!
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post #200 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 08:45 AM
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Here it is not as important to be worried about the weight of the screen as it is to be concerned about removing any bubbles/waves from the screen. Therefore you need a solid backing - plywood. The blue rigid foam (styrofoam or extruded polystyrene) is much too flexible, has tendency to flake apart and does not really provide adequate nailing/screwing surface for mounting. I probably would go with 1/2" AC plywood, mounting it to the 'A' side of the plywood. You can use an adhesive like Liquid Nails and have a small rubber roller to roll out any bubbles/waves that form as you lay down the sheet. Yes this will be heavier than the foam, but it will be more solid and really wouldn't be that much weight at all when you mount it to the studs of your wall.

Bob Jones
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post #201 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 09:00 AM
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Now i plan on using an 5x10 peice to 16:9 screen so i will have to use 2 peices of plywood. As long as they meet flush and are even, i shouldn't have a problem will i?
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post #202 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 09:29 AM
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I ordered a 4X8 sheet today and will be shipped tomorrow. Total cost for me (Lorton Va) will be $41.95 (14.95 for the sheet, $5 packing, $22 shipping). Ironic that the shipping is more costly than the sheet itself!

I intend to affix the sheet to a 5/8" drywall sheet, after trimming the DW and "screen" to the appropriate size, using liquid nails or drywall adhesive. But I was only going to put the glue around the edges that would be hidden by the trim so that there is no glue behind the screen portion that would be viewed. This would then be hung on a screen wall that will sit approximately 1 foot from the theater wall.

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bright, until you hear them speak.
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post #203 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 09:38 AM
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It shouldn't matter if you put glue behind the plastic or not since it isn't transparent. Just put it on evenly and you will be ok. Then you wont' have to be worried about any waves is the middle.
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post #204 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 10:18 AM
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The screen I have right now is made out of a similar material that I found at a local Home Depot. It is basically made of fiberglass. I also used a couple of door casings that I had around to built a frame for it. I then glued the frame to the screen using a hot glue gun from behind. Let me explain the process a little better...
First I laid the panel on the floor with the white matte superficie on the underside and the other with bumps on the upperside.
Second I laid the frame centered on the panel. (the screen is 4x8 and the frame is only 3x6.
Third using a hot glue gun I spread glue all aroud the edges of the frame (interior and exterior to the frame for a good bondness).
After 30 minutes I was able to lift the screen from its frame and hang it to the wall.
the only problem I had was that because the frame was much smaller than the panel itself it has a tendency to curve towards the wall just a little bit.
I'm now waiting for the Parkland material to come to built another one. This time I will make the frame only 1/2 inch smaller on both dimensions to allow some space for the exterior lip of hot glue.
Rodrigo
BTW- the hot glue is semi-transparent so it won't cause any problems even if the panel turns out to be transparent. (I hope not!!!!)
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post #205 of 1284 Old 01-15-2002, 10:18 AM
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Quote:


Now i plan on using an 5x10 peice to 16:9 screen so i will have to use 2 peices of plywood. As long as they meet flush and are even, i shouldn't have a problem will i?

You should be ok, just make sure that the two ends you are joining are quite square. You may want to use a small piece of 1x material as a backer board (i.e. attach horizontally across the back of the 2 pieces of plywood).

If you do use adhesive in the middle of the screen area, do use a roller to roll out the polywall. This is a common technique when laminating wood etc, it helps spread the adhesive evenly.

Another thought too, is to use MDF instead of plywood. MDF is very heavy, but it is also very flat.

Bob Jones
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post #206 of 1284 Old 01-16-2002, 01:48 PM
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Since there seems to be some semi-translucency issues with the screen (vis a vis gluing them to a solid backing), has anyone tried paiting the *back* side (with gray/matte paint) instead of the front?

If the back was painted with the low-gain paint, then the glue applied to the entire back to hold it against solid backing material shouldn't be visible, right?
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post #207 of 1284 Old 01-16-2002, 01:52 PM
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The Plastic is not transparent at all. I haven't found where it could be transpartent anyways. It is sold white plastic. When i looked at it at HD, i couldn't see any transparency issues.
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post #208 of 1284 Old 01-16-2002, 01:54 PM
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Maybe the best way is to use double side adhesive tape. It is white anyway and can hold anything. I remember using it to secure my stereo under the a dashboard with no screws at all.
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post #209 of 1284 Old 01-16-2002, 01:57 PM
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Ron_C
if you bring a piece of this material about 1 feet from your projector lens are you able to see the picture in the other side?
My fiberglass stuff does... and it sucks!
Rodrigo
BTW- The projector obviously has to be turned on
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post #210 of 1284 Old 01-16-2002, 05:09 PM
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I used adhesive to get it on plywood, and have no problem at all with the transparency.
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