Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 794 Old 11-13-2013, 02:35 PM
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^
Glad that you hear a real improvement in the upgrade. But what do you mean by the whole "Rel 3D thing"?
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post #542 of 794 Old 11-13-2013, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by classicrecording View Post

^
Glad that you hear a real improvement in the upgrade. But what do you mean by the whole "Rel 3D thing"?

The way Rel push multple subs position in certain places in the room. Supposed to give a '3D' feel to the base which I don't quite understand with bass being mono and all.

 

Also went to watch a film a few hours ago and the 528SE isn't outputting anything, fun times!

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post #543 of 794 Old 11-13-2013, 11:31 PM
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It has to do with the way the REL enhances the higher frequencies by adding the low frequency information. This greatly adds to the imaging and the size of the soundstage. Now if you also do this in a 5.1 setup, I can imagine the soundstage becomes more 3 dimensional.
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post #544 of 794 Old 11-27-2013, 06:30 PM
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Question:

I own 2 REL Strata III subs that are hooked up to my L/R mains via the Neutrik Speakon interconnect.

My Amp has the ability to be bridged and I would like to know is there anything that I have to do differently if I bridge the L/R mains and leave the Sub corrected to the mains to the connection.

Obviously the connection for the AMP would be Positive to Positive and negative to positive.

In advance,

Greg
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post #545 of 794 Old 12-18-2013, 08:09 PM
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Hello,

I have a 14.5x22.5x8foots room coner basstrapped and broadband trapped at first reflexion points.

I am looking Rel sub for listening music (only).

528SE
Gibraltar G2 or G1

Any advice between 528SE and G2 ? g2 use a small woofer while 528se use 2 x 12 inch. Better to use a G2 ?

Is-it missing something using only 1 subwoofer ? I tend to prefer to spend all my budget on the best sub I can get to get low level sub and have 2.

I will do room correction with j-river media center (parametric EQ inside). I have a cal microphone and room eq wizard software.
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post #546 of 794 Old 12-18-2013, 09:45 PM
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Hi,

It's good to see you have actually treated your room, since most people don't do that, while room treatments actually have the largest impact on sound after the speakers.

Well, of course toy get the G1 so you can tell us your impressions! Ahahaha...

Just kidding. I've been thinking about that as wel. I guess the biggest difference between the R528 and the G2 is the cabinet construction and maybe the size and the remote that comes with the G series.

Luckily both subs didn't exist when I was looking for my sub. The B1 was about the price the 528SE now is, altough much larger and heavier. I always wonder how those two would compare.

O, and with the room treatment and EQ ing I suggest you simply take 1 sub. RELs do get better as you move up. So IMO you are better off with one very good and fast sub then two weaker and slower ones.
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post #547 of 794 Old 01-02-2014, 03:33 PM
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Just bought a Rel R328 yesterday and now i'm in the process of breaking it in. I auditioned side by side the T9 and R328 and choose the R328, though the T9 performs really well against the R328. Anyway ill be using this together with PSB Image T6, Nad C275BEE Amp, NAD C165Bee Preamp, Rega DAC, Vlink 192 SPDIF converter, Laptop as source.

Any tips on breaking it in? Positioning? Xover settings etc etc.. Thanks smile.gif
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post #548 of 794 Old 01-02-2014, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xander1925 View Post

Just bought a Rel R328 yesterday and now i'm in the process of breaking it in. I auditioned side by side the T9 and R328 and choose the R328, though the T9 performs really well against the R328. Anyway ill be using this together with PSB Image T6, Nad C275BEE Amp, NAD C165Bee Preamp, Rega DAC, Vlink 192 SPDIF converter, Laptop as source.

Any tips on breaking it in? Positioning? Xover settings etc etc.. Thanks smile.gif
I would follow what the manual says to do. It spells everything out very plainly. You might get someone to help, so they can position and adjust while you listen.

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post #549 of 794 Old 01-02-2014, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

I would follow what the manual says to do. It spells everything out very plainly. You might get someone to help, so they can position and adjust while you listen.

Thanks RaceTripper, i believe we have same sub as i read this whole thread before i bought the R328.
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post #550 of 794 Old 01-02-2014, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xander1925 View Post

Just bought a Rel R328 yesterday and now i'm in the process of breaking it in. I auditioned side by side the T9 and R328 and choose the R328, though the T9 performs really well against the R328. Anyway ill be using this together with PSB Image T6, Nad C275BEE Amp, NAD C165Bee Preamp, Rega DAC, Vlink 192 SPDIF converter, Laptop as source.

Any tips on breaking it in? Positioning? Xover settings etc etc.. Thanks smile.gif

Congratulations. It is the same REL that I plan on getting. I would like to hear your updates as to how it compliments your system as you get it set up.
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post #551 of 794 Old 01-02-2014, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by classicrecording View Post

Congratulations. It is the same REL that I plan on getting. I would like to hear your updates as to how it compliments your system as you get it set up.

Thanks. So far i'm still in the process of running it in as per manual. No major changes on settings and location. So far i love what i'm hearing..

I'm also doing a side by side comparison with the Klipsch just for fun of it. Klipsch is my HT sub...

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post #552 of 794 Old 01-02-2014, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xander1925 View Post

Thanks. So far i'm still in the process of running it in as per manual. No major changes on settings and location. So far i love what i'm hearing..

I'm also doing a side by side comparison with the Klipsch just for fun of it. Klipsch is my HT sub...

Why not set it up now? It will run in just fine after you have it configured and you can enjoy it the way it's meant to be.

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post #553 of 794 Old 01-02-2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

Why not set it up now? It will run in just fine after you have it configured and you can enjoy it the way it's meant to be.

Followed your advise.. You really need to be patient in setting this up, position, xover etc.. etc... but once you find the best spot and settings.. the reward is priceless... This sub is truly amazing.. I wonder how the 528 performs..
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post #554 of 794 Old 01-03-2014, 03:55 AM
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Congrats on your new R328,it is a fabulous sub for sure.Patience is what's needed to get this sub properly integrated but is well worth the effort.I am loving mine.
Two of my friends also have Rel subs.One has the R528 and the other has the older R505(no passive driver).My R528 friend has his set too loud and refuses to use the neutrik connection (slaps friend in the head),he doesn't get it but I have patience knowing that he eventually wil and it will be a eureka moment for him.
The 528 needs a good sized room.


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post #555 of 794 Old 01-03-2014, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xander1925 View Post

Followed your advise.. You really need to be patient in setting this up, position, xover etc.. etc... but once you find the best spot and settings.. the reward is priceless... This sub is truly amazing.. I wonder how the 528 performs..

The question is: How does it compare to the Klipsch that in terms of stats should be the better sub (larger cone, larger cabinet)?

I've only owned REL subs so far and always wonder if RELs are really worth the money, or that I am simply trowing my money away..
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post #556 of 794 Old 01-03-2014, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Q View Post

The question is: How does it compare to the Klipsch that in terms of stats should be the better sub (larger cone, larger cabinet)?

I've only owned REL subs so far and always wonder if RELs are really worth the money, or that I am simply trowing my money away..

Since i have not tested the R328 for HT application yet but did an extensive A&B between Rel and Klipsch for Music..

For Audio purposes, the Klipsch is just ok, it can go really loud, low and rattle your house but sometmes it cant keep up from fast paced music. I had difficuloty integrating this to my PSB T6, until this day. I have two of these, and i decided to move the Klipsch to my Audio setup but then again i wasn't happy. It's ok for some music but sometimes it gets really boomy playing hard bass music. SOmetimes when playing loud, it;s really difficult to hear if ot's the bass kick drums or the bass guitar. it just booms

Then the R328 came, this thing is Accurate, the bass details is awesome. I never heard a bass being strung like that in Klipsch. I have tested hard and fast bass music and this thing is really fast without loosing details or without being boomy. I was simply amaze of this thing. i only hhave 3 hours of sleep until today as i cant stop listening, putting every song i can think off. The price of REL is more than double the price of Klipsch. If you ask me if it's worthit? for me yes and if i only have cash right now i will buy another one, dual sub for audio.

Will soon try it in my HT room.

For Klipsch, in HT. This thing will rock your house, just imagine if you use two.
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post #557 of 794 Old 01-03-2014, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xander1925 View Post

Followed your advise.. You really need to be patient in setting this up, position, xover etc.. etc... but once you find the best spot and settings.. the reward is priceless... This sub is truly amazing.. I wonder how the 528 performs..

Yes, it can take some time and effort to get it right. The payoff is worth it though.

Don't wonder too much. When I had my T-7 I wondered how the R-328 would perform. Oops.

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post #558 of 794 Old 01-03-2014, 06:04 PM
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Yes, it can take some time and effort to get it right. The payoff is worth it though.

Don't wonder too much. When I had my T-7 I wondered how the R-328 would perform. Oops.

Ha ha ha.... You're right.. i should stop wondering or else i will have trouble with my wallet again... Truly amazing sub we got.. cant stop smiling...
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post #559 of 794 Old 01-04-2014, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by xander1925 View Post

Since i have not tested the R328 for HT application yet but did an extensive A&B between Rel and Klipsch for Music..

For Audio purposes, the Klipsch is just ok, it can go really loud, low and rattle your house but sometmes it cant keep up from fast paced music. I had difficuloty integrating this to my PSB T6, until this day. I have two of these, and i decided to move the Klipsch to my Audio setup but then again i wasn't happy. It's ok for some music but sometimes it gets really boomy playing hard bass music. SOmetimes when playing loud, it;s really difficult to hear if ot's the bass kick drums or the bass guitar. it just booms

Then the R328 came, this thing is Accurate, the bass details is awesome. I never heard a bass being strung like that in Klipsch. I have tested hard and fast bass music and this thing is really fast without loosing details or without being boomy. I was simply amaze of this thing. i only hhave 3 hours of sleep until today as i cant stop listening, putting every song i can think off. The price of REL is more than double the price of Klipsch. If you ask me if it's worthit? for me yes and if i only have cash right now i will buy another one, dual sub for audio.

Will soon try it in my HT room.

For Klipsch, in HT. This thing will rock your house, just imagine if you use two.

Thanks for the write up!

Speed has always been an argument for REL subs. I however noticed that some of the newer AVR's have options to match the phase and timing of the sub to the speakers and was wondering if REL's truly has an advantage in such a case.

Well, not for my current setup, since I only use a integrated stereo amp in my music setup.


oh, and just get it over with and get the G1 already cool.gif
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post #560 of 794 Old 01-04-2014, 06:00 PM
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Thanks for the write up!

Speed has always been an argument for REL subs. I however noticed that some of the newer AVR's have options to match the phase and timing of the sub to the speakers and was wondering if REL's truly has an advantage in such a case.

Well, not for my current setup, since I only use a integrated stereo amp in my music setup.


oh, and just get it over with and get the G1 already cool.gif

I still believe no matter what settings they out to AVR's, it still boils down to limitation of the sub. If you're sub is slow, it will always be slow. An improvement can be made by settings, positioning and room acoustics but it will still be always slow. Physics will always be there to chime in..

From the subs i have heard extensively(SVS PB12NSD, SB12NSD, Klipsch, B&W, Polk Audio Subs, Mordaunt Short, MIrage) Nothing beats Rel with regards to Musicality, though i have not heard their highest end models. I do heard JL Fathom subs and they are quite good. But then again the price..

G1???? Wow... GO GET IT... That is somnething i can only wish he he he
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post #561 of 794 Old 01-05-2014, 01:10 AM
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I still believe no matter what settings they out to AVR's, it still boils down to limitation of the sub. If you're sub is slow, it will always be slow. An improvement can be made by settings, positioning and room acoustics but it will still be always slow. Physics will always be there to chime in..

From the subs i have heard extensively(SVS PB12NSD, SB12NSD, Klipsch, B&W, Polk Audio Subs, Mordaunt Short, MIrage) Nothing beats Rel with regards to Musicality, though i have not heard their highest end models. I do heard JL Fathom subs and they are quite good. But then again the price..

G1???? Wow... GO GET IT... That is somnething i can only wish he he he

Just put your mind on 0 and get it. Thats what I did when getting the B1, though the G1 is a fair bit more expensive then the B1 was back then.

I am just curious to what the G1 sounds like and how much it differs from my B1, but no one seems to be buying it rolleyes.gif
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post #562 of 794 Old 01-05-2014, 05:34 PM
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Just put your mind on 0 and get it. Thats what I did when getting the B1, though the G1 is a fair bit more expensive then the B1 was back then.

I am just curious to what the G1 sounds like and how much it differs from my B1, but no one seems to be buying it rolleyes.gif

The G1 is a monster... So when will you be getting the G1?
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post #563 of 794 Old 01-05-2014, 08:18 PM
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Anybody upgraded their cable to Rel Bass Line Blue?
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post #564 of 794 Old 01-06-2014, 05:17 AM
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Anybody upgraded their cable to Rel Bass Line Blue?
No. I had a custom Transparent Cable based cable made for me. I have to connect at the speaker terminals instead of the amp, so I have special requirements for cable configuration. The join for the three leads has to be 9' from the termination.

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post #565 of 794 Old 01-06-2014, 09:06 AM
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@Xander:
A monster indeed! But my B1 is a monster as well (almost 50kg). It was basically the previous flagship, before the new sub lines were introduced. Despite its large size it's very fast and subtle, but I must admit I am very curious to the sound of the G1 and how it compares.

As for the cable: no. But I don't really believe in cables enough. Also, I am currently waiting for a special cable to arrive, so I can connect my REL to my new Class D amp. Newer RELs don't need that cable, since the mechanism is already build right into it.
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post #566 of 794 Old 01-06-2014, 05:56 PM
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@Xander:
A monster indeed! But my B1 is a monster as well (almost 50kg). It was basically the previous flagship, before the new sub lines were introduced. Despite its large size it's very fast and subtle, but I must admit I am very curious to the sound of the G1 and how it compares.

As for the cable: no. But I don't really believe in cables enough. Also, I am currently waiting for a special cable to arrive, so I can connect my REL to my new Class D amp. Newer RELs don't need that cable, since the mechanism is already build right into it.

So when will you get the G1? really excited to hear your review on the Monster sub..

As a first time Rel user, i must admit, this is the best Sub i have ever heard for music.

I cant believe how a sub can improve the sound stage and details of your mains.. Turning it off will make your mains to sound horrible even if you know the actual SQ of the mains didnt actually change..
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post #567 of 794 Old 01-07-2014, 06:04 PM
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I notice that my R-328 produces some sort of mechanical rattle when the drivers are moving, we are not talking about very high excursion.. but each time it moves i'm hearing rattling. Is this normal? At first i though it was from the windows but to isolate the problem i disconnected the main speakers to remove the other noise and so that i can only hear the bass. When i came close to the unit, it seems that the rattling is coming from the inside. My klipsch dont rattle even at high excursion.. I dint this experiment because all this time i though its coming from somewhere else but cant seem to find it until i isolated the sub...

I called the distributor and they asked me to bring in the unit... Does any of you experience this? thanks..
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post #568 of 794 Old 01-07-2014, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by xander1925 View Post

I notice that my R-328 produces some sort of mechanical rattle when the drivers are moving, we are not talking about very high excursion.. but each time it moves i'm hearing rattling. Is this normal? At first i though it was from the windows but to isolate the problem i disconnected the main speakers to remove the other noise and so that i can only hear the bass. When i came close to the unit, it seems that the rattling is coming from the inside. My klipsch dont rattle even at high excursion.. I dint this experiment because all this time i though its coming from somewhere else but cant seem to find it until i isolated the sub...

I called the distributor and they asked me to bring in the unit... Does any of you experience this? thanks..

Make sure the feet are screwed in. I actually had a foot loosen completely on my old T-7. The screws worked their way out from the low freq vibrations. Now I check all the screws on my sub every now and then.

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post #569 of 794 Old 01-07-2014, 06:35 PM
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Make sure the feet are screwed in. I actually had a foot loosen completely on my old T-7. The screws worked their way out from the low freq vibrations. Now I check all the screws on my sub every now and then.

I have actually checked the screws before putting the spikes, i put the spikes because ths sub moves during bass plays and i though the rattle is coming from there. but then again, the sub is steady and no longer moving.. The rattle is audibloe in my listening position and i always thought it's coming from the glass window behind it..

But again, there should be no mechanical rattle like when the during excursion of driver right? My klipsch driver excursion is moving like crazy but never i heard a rattle like that even if i put my ears to the body of the sub. With the Rel, even at low volume and i can see the driver doing movement and i put my ear to the body i can hear that something is going on inside, it's when you play it a little louder that you can hear the rattling, specially during the time i removed my mains...

Now if this is normal, then that's unacceptable to me.. i hope it's not so i can have this replaced...
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post #570 of 794 Old 01-07-2014, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by xander1925 View Post

I have actually checked the screws before putting the spikes, i put the spikes because ths sub moves during bass plays and i though the rattle is coming from there. but then again, the sub is steady and no longer moving.. The rattle is audibloe in my listening position and i always thought it's coming from the glass window behind it..

But again, there should be no mechanical rattle like when the during excursion of driver right? My klipsch driver excursion is moving like crazy but never i heard a rattle like that even if i put my ears to the body of the sub. With the Rel, even at low volume and i can see the driver doing movement and i put my ear to the body i can hear that something is going on inside, it's when you play it a little louder that you can hear the rattling, specially during the time i removed my mains...

Now if this is normal, then that's unacceptable to me.. i hope it's not so i can have this replaced...

No, there shouldn't be a rattle, but your sub shouldn't move across the floor on its own either.

Clearaudio Ovation/Magnify/Concerto v2; Herron Audio VTPH-2
Naim Audio ND5XS/NAC282/HC/NAP250-2; Dynaudio S3.4e2; REL R-328
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