Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 27 - AVS Forum
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post #781 of 805 Old 06-16-2014, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Don't follow integrated amps due to that very lack of functionality so not familiar with what is usual let alone what you have or how your setup is put together.

I looked in the manual and sounds like you should use the 12dB rca jack if you feel the 0 jack isn't sufficient. I earlier thought you meant a L/R pair of inputs rather than one 0 and one 12 dB, before re-reading it, for my comment about using both; I would think you wouldn't use both simultaneously but don't know if possible to split the difference or something, this is an unusual sub feature; altho I suppose its nice to have adjustable sensitivity for the input, I've not needed it with my subs.

The minidsp has two inputs but four outputs (2x4) so you can use crossover, but that's assuming you are sending the processed signal to a separate amp for the sub vs mains. If you're connecting the sub as high level then you can't use the crossover and only becomes useful for eq and I'd think the presence of the crossover could be problematic, but you might want to explain your setup for that more and probably in the minidsp thread if you didn't already.

Curious, what speakers do you have? What is the setting for crossover you're using on the sub?
I'll make sure to poke around in the MiniDSP thread after trying the low level connection first.

I use the Dynaudio C1 as a main speaker. The REL is now crossed at 22Hz. This is because I have a very loud room mode @33Hz. The C1's are bookshelves and officially listed to go down to 45Hz, but since there is at least a 15db peak with the sub turned off, it probably has some good output below the listed frequency. I think stereophile has some measurements floating around.

As an amp I use the Wired4Sound STI-1000 (Class D).
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post #782 of 805 Old 06-20-2014, 03:14 PM
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R-328: cycling rattle coming from rear control panel. Anyone else?

Hello I just purchase a R-328 from an authorized dealer- brand new unit, sealed. After setting up and turning on the sub, I can hear the faintest of rattle coming from the backside of the unit. It almost sounds like the amplifier is "idling". I'm not sure how else to describe it. Note: the rattle is NOT from playback, the sub unit is simply powered on in an "idle" state.

Do any other owners observe/experience this??
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post #783 of 805 Old 06-21-2014, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by spizzi View Post
Hello I just purchase a R-328 from an authorized dealer- brand new unit, sealed. After setting up and turning on the sub, I can hear the faintest of rattle coming from the backside of the unit. It almost sounds like the amplifier is "idling". I'm not sure how else to describe it. Note: the rattle is NOT from playback, the sub unit is simply powered on in an "idle" state.

Do any other owners observe/experience this??
What kind of amp is it connected to? What connection do you use? Class D amps can cause some humming when connected high level.
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post #784 of 805 Old 06-21-2014, 11:40 AM
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the Rel is connected to my AV Receiver. I went through the set of troubleshooting instructions from the Rel FAQ site and none worked.

However, I got the hum to go away - plugged the sub directly into my $14 APC power strip.

I don't know if plugging into the APC power strip also solved the "idling" noise from the back of the sub (I still think it was the Rel Class D amp making the idle noise) but that too went away.

All is good and I love this sub! Very musical, very fast. Some bass heavy, fast material can confuse it but by far the best sub I've owned and I've owned a few SVS and B&W. I feel like I got the last one in the USA brand new sealed with warranty as the Serie R have been discontinued and virtually no dealers I called had any left. More than I wanted to spend even with Rel closeout pricing but as of right now I feel like it's worth every penny!
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post #785 of 805 Old 06-21-2014, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Q View Post
I'll make sure to poke around in the MiniDSP thread after trying the low level connection first.

I use the Dynaudio C1 as a main speaker. The REL is now crossed at 22Hz. This is because I have a very loud room mode @33Hz. The C1's are bookshelves and officially listed to go down to 45Hz, but since there is at least a 15db peak with the sub turned off, it probably has some good output below the listed frequency. I think stereophile has some measurements floating around.

As an amp I use the Wired4Sound STI-1000 (Class D).
Why would you cross a sub near its lower extension limit and well below the speakers' capability? Not utilizing either sub or speaker to its strengths IMO.

"I realize that somebody playing free music isn't as commercial as a hamburger stand. But is it because you can eat a hamburger and hold it in your hand and you can't do that with music? Is it too free to control?" - Don Van Vliet (aka Captain Beefheart) discussing commercial success in the music biz


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post #786 of 805 Old 06-21-2014, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Why would you cross a sub near its lower extension limit and well below the speakers' capability? Not utilizing either sub or speaker to its strengths IMO.
To not excite the 33Hz room mode even further.

Here is a measurement of my front speakers with the sub turned off:


also, crossover @ 22Hz means that it has audible output till at least 44Hz. It's the best thing you can do without an active crossover. With a passive crossover crossing based on the speakers specs is a bad idea.

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post #787 of 805 Old 06-21-2014, 06:45 PM
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Nothing you can do about the room mode with positioning or eq? What's the slope on the sub xover? Might be that your solution just happens to work for you in your room, but don't see how your situation applies to crossovers in general. Relying on speakers to play beyond their capabilities or underutilizing them seems a bad idea to me generally.

"I realize that somebody playing free music isn't as commercial as a hamburger stand. But is it because you can eat a hamburger and hold it in your hand and you can't do that with music? Is it too free to control?" - Don Van Vliet (aka Captain Beefheart) discussing commercial success in the music biz


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post #788 of 805 Old 06-22-2014, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Nothing you can do about the room mode with positioning or eq? What's the slope on the sub xover? Might be that your solution just happens to work for you in your room, but don't see how your situation applies to crossovers in general. Relying on speakers to play beyond their capabilities or underutilizing them seems a bad idea to me generally.
When you run your main speakers full range, which is the case for pretty much every REL owner, you will have similar problems. Most regular rooms like mine have a room mode somewhere between 30HZ and 50Hz. If I crossed my sub @ 45Hz, based on the spec sheet of Dynaudio, I would make the 20dB hump even worse. With an active crossover this would be a different thing, yes, but I think many people that buy a REL have it connected to a Stereo Int amp like me, feeding it a full range signal.

IIRC REL's crossover slopes @24dB per octave.

I've already treated my room with bass traps for the 70Hz and higher frequencies. I hoped to fix the humps below that with the MiniDSP, but with no success on my first try using the REW measurements.
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post #789 of 805 Old 06-22-2014, 02:46 PM
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Not sure I'm doing this correctly as I'm new here but... here goes....
I just bought a REL R-528SE on close out... Great sound using the LFE input! But the neutrik plug is new to me and it appears it would not benefit my current setup....Current setup is a satellite system with Adcom amp and MK S100 speakers main. I DO NOT want to send the full spectrum to my S100s as for those who do not know these have 3 tweeters and 2 - 5.5" mids....each side... so cutoff is around 80hz .. Now with that said how would I use the neutrik plug... no low freq would be there as I don't want the feed the lows to my S100 with a Adcom 200watt per side amp.
I believe the LFE is my only solution in the setup.... any ideas? or did I waste my money on a sub meant to be hooked up with full range speakers....Thanks for reading...

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post #790 of 805 Old 06-22-2014, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Fanman155mph View Post
Not sure I'm doing this correctly as I'm new here but... here goes....
I just bought a REL R-528SE on close out... Great sound using the LFE input! But the neutrik plug is new to me and it appears it would not benefit my current setup....Current setup is a satellite system with Adcom amp and MK S100 speakers main. I DO NOT want to send the full spectrum to my S100s as for those who do not know these have 3 tweeters and 2 - 5.5" mids....each side... so cutoff is around 80hz .. Now with that said how would I use the neutrik plug... no low freq would be there as I don't want the feed the lows to my S100 with a Adcom 200watt per side amp.
I believe the LFE is my only solution in the setup.... any ideas? or did I waste my money on a sub meant to be hooked up with full range speakers....Thanks for reading...
Let's just say you could've bought a much less expensive sub, that has more output. Especially if you are gonna use it for HT.

I have no idea what the REL will do when you connect it high level with such crossover. Maybe it will still add a little weight to transients, but I can't imagine the crossover in your AVR missing those. It can never hurt to just try.
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post #791 of 805 Old 06-22-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Q View Post
Let's just say you could've bought a much less expensive sub, that has more output. Especially if you are gonna use it for HT.

I have no idea what the REL will do when you connect it high level with such crossover. Maybe it will still add a little weight to transients, but I can't imagine the crossover in your AVR missing those. It can never hurt to just try.
What would you recommend for HT which I do use for two channel music listening.... its still a satellite system.. I like that this REL sub as it blends so well even with the LFE input... My old sub quit is why I just run out to buy a replacement and came up the 528se...
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post #792 of 805 Old 06-22-2014, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Fanman155mph View Post
What would you recommend for HT which I do use for two channel music listening.... its still a satellite system.. I like that this REL sub as it blends so well even with the LFE input... My old sub quit is why I just run out to buy a replacement and came up the 528se...
I see.

Well, I have no experience with other brands then REL myself, so I can't tell. I currently have three REL's ranging from the small Quake to the huge B1.

Maybe others can do some suggestions. I hear good things about brands like SVS, HSU and Rythmik. They sure as hell are a lot cheaper.
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post #793 of 805 Old 06-22-2014, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Q View Post
I see.

Well, I have no experience with other brands then REL myself, so I can't tell. I currently have three REL's ranging from the small Quake to the huge B1.

Maybe others can do some suggestions. I hear good things about brands like SVS, HSU and Rythmik. They sure as hell are a lot cheaper.
What about the Velodyne - Optimum 12" 2400W ? There are some good reviews on it and with a 1,200 RMS amp.... or the
Sunfire TSEQ12 True Subwoofer EQ 12 Signature.... Leaning on the Sunfire just not sure...

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post #794 of 805 Old 08-08-2014, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fanman155mph View Post
Not sure I'm doing this correctly as I'm new here but... here goes....
I just bought a REL R-528SE on close out... Great sound using the LFE input! But the neutrik plug is new to me and it appears it would not benefit my current setup....Current setup is a satellite system with Adcom amp and MK S100 speakers main. I DO NOT want to send the full spectrum to my S100s as for those who do not know these have 3 tweeters and 2 - 5.5" mids....each side... so cutoff is around 80hz .. Now with that said how would I use the neutrik plug... no low freq would be there as I don't want the feed the lows to my S100 with a Adcom 200watt per side amp.
I believe the LFE is my only solution in the setup.... any ideas? or did I waste my money on a sub meant to be hooked up with full range speakers....Thanks for reading...
Im also going to buy a T-9 for my speakers (KEF 3005 SE) setting the crossover to 100Hz.
And I will also just use the LFE input, not the high input.

Im buying the T-9 as a replacement for my Quake Q3 which has died due to bad weather

Panasonic TX-P50GT60 / Marantz SR5004 / 4 x KEF HTS 3001 SE (front + rear) + HTC 3001 SE (centre) + REL T-9 sub / Oppo BDP-103EU (MultiRegion+MultiZone)
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post #795 of 805 Old 08-31-2014, 08:18 AM
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How do you tighten the feet on the Rel subs?

Panasonic TC-P65ZT60
Marantz AV8801 pre-pro / MM8077 amp
Martin Logan Motion 50XT Center
Martin Logan Motion 60XT Fronts/40 Rears
REL R-528 SE (2)
Oppo BDP-103D/Playstation 4/Furman ELITE-20 PF i
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post #796 of 805 Old 09-02-2014, 09:20 AM
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All-

looks like REL has a new 'S' series sub. Any of you guys take a test-drive?
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post #797 of 805 Old 10-10-2014, 04:49 PM
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My little Storm III just crapped out.. Looks like a driver device got hot and/or failed.
Anyone know what part number they are?
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post #798 of 805 Old 10-11-2014, 05:31 PM
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Someone at DIYA figured it out.
Parts ordered!
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post #799 of 805 Old 10-20-2014, 07:33 PM
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Guys-

are the newer REL offerings being made in china? If so, what series did it start?
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post #800 of 805 Old 11-09-2014, 04:27 PM
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Help Please

Hey Guys...I need some help.

I have a Rel T1 that developed a pretty good audible hum. It worked fine, but had the hum. I turned it off, let it sit for a few minutes, then back on and now I have power but no sound at all. I replaced the fuse and that did not work...any suggestions?
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post #801 of 805 Old 11-09-2014, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnep02 View Post
Hey Guys...I need some help.

I have a Rel T1 that developed a pretty good audible hum. It worked fine, but had the hum. I turned it off, let it sit for a few minutes, then back on and now I have power but no sound at all. I replaced the fuse and that did not work...any suggestions?
You comfortable with removing the amp and inspecting it? Sounds like an amp failure from the little to go on. What do you mean you have power but no sound? What does "developed a pretty good audible hum" mean particularly, was there some hum all along? When did it develop, how long before failure and what characteristics? That is, need a lot more description of both the issue and the problem solving attempted so far other than "let it sit for a few minutes" and replacing a fuse when you don't even mention if the fuse was blown....

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post #802 of 805 Old 11-09-2014, 07:49 PM
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Thanks for your reply. Let me see if I can answer your questions with a bit more clarity:

1) Audible Hum: this was an "electronic" sound emanating from the back, not from the woofer itself. The Rel is in a corner, and I could hear it from the couch in the middle of the room when the room was silent.

2) Power: the blue power light light on the back panle of the sub comes on when the unit is plugged in. I turned off the Rel using the power switch in hope that it would "reset" and the hum would go away. When I turned it back on, the blue light was on, but no base was coming from the speaker, even when I turned up the volume of the woofer itself.

3) Fuse: I replaced the fuse thinking/hoping that this was the cause. The original fuse did not look to be blown, but I changed it, just in case.

I agree that it may be the sub's amp...just hoping that this is not the case. I am OK removing it myself, but what should I be looking for? Are there internal fuses that can be replaced?

thanks for your help!!
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post #803 of 805 Old 11-09-2014, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnep02 View Post
Thanks for your reply. Let me see if I can answer your questions with a bit more clarity:

1) Audible Hum: this was an "electronic" sound emanating from the back, not from the woofer itself. The Rel is in a corner, and I could hear it from the couch in the middle of the room when the room was silent.

2) Power: the blue power light light on the back panle of the sub comes on when the unit is plugged in. I turned off the Rel using the power switch in hope that it would "reset" and the hum would go away. When I turned it back on, the blue light was on, but no base was coming from the speaker, even when I turned up the volume of the woofer itself.

3) Fuse: I replaced the fuse thinking/hoping that this was the cause. The original fuse did not look to be blown, but I changed it, just in case.

I agree that it may be the sub's amp...just hoping that this is not the case. I am OK removing it myself, but what should I be looking for? Are there internal fuses that can be replaced?

thanks for your help!!
Just a buzzing amp, that's different from a sub (assuming thru the driver) humming...not terribly unusual for an amp to have a bit of a buzz but audible from the listening position is a deal killer (did this develop later or was always there?).

What does a blue light mean on a Rel sub according to your manual? Are there other possible colors to this light?

Blown fuses should be pretty obvious; replacing one that hasn't blown is useless. Doubtful there are other fuses. If you inspect it I would look for signs of burning/melting on the board, bulging/blown capacitors, something to indicate an amp problem (which so far it sounds like). If your driver is the issue you might look for damage to the voice coil or do some other tests but seems the problem is not the driver from your description of the noise not coming thru the driver....altho an amp issue might have affected the driver. You could also take it to an electronic repair shop (or if whatever retailer sold it to you might actually have their own tech department you could try them). If under warranty simply apply for that....taking it apart could void any existing warranty.

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post #804 of 805 Unread 12-03-2014, 05:19 PM
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I purchased a Rel T-7 to go along with a new home theater system about a month ago. With in the last week or two I have noticed that occasionally the sub woofer will make a slight rubbing or rattling noise which can be completely alleviated by gently touching the gasket(I believe this is the right name of the part I will provide a picture with the area highlighted). Once fixed this will not happen again for at least a day. My thinking is that the glue of the gasket is lose and this causes the foam(maybe rubber) gasket to rub against the side of the surround. I am very new to speakers so i'm trying to figure out if logic is sound(no pun intended) and if this is something I can fix by simply taping the gasket down or applying pressure to the area etc etc, or if this is something I should contact Rel about.


Thank you so much for your time
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post #805 of 805 Unread Today, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Barnep02 View Post
Hey Guys...I need some help.

I have a Rel T1 that developed a pretty good audible hum. It worked fine, but had the hum. I turned it off, let it sit for a few minutes, then back on and now I have power but no sound at all. I replaced the fuse and that did not work...any suggestions?

Send it back for repair. Get ready for a world of hurt. They make you go through your dealer. I got a lemon the first time around. The second time mine failed, I asked for my money back. Instead they gave me a new unit. So far it has held together, unlike the first one, but I am scared to look at it crosswise.
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