Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 28 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #811 of 849 Old 02-02-2015, 07:24 AM
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REL Stentor internal rewiring

Hi everyone! I own a pair of REL Stentor III. I'm in the process of replacing ALL factory wires inside my Stentors with decent quality copper cables. I'm replacing the crappy factory caps too. Has anyone tried such a thing with your REL subs? If you have, would you share details here, please? Of course I'm interested what the results sounded like. Thanks! Anyone?
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post #812 of 849 Old 03-06-2015, 08:42 AM
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Guys I really need help - despite reading various help links at the begining of this thread.
I upgraded from mrx700 to 710 receiver and bought two REL S5 subs that should be radio linked (Longbow).
I understand that both subs will work as dual mono.
How on earth do I start the setup if I really cannot alter the positioning ( both subs pointing forward on the inside of both main front speakers) ?

When I switch the mrx on do I try fiddling with the sound of each sub separately , then run them both to fix phase, and then run arc ?
Any advice on settings?
I have no local dealers for either make and had to buy from abroad so I have nobody to talk to.

Please do let me know any hints, tips or tricks to get this right.

Many thanks
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post #813 of 849 Old 03-21-2015, 09:22 PM
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Gentlemen,

am I right in thinking that a REL T-5 or T-7 purchased in the US will be able to be played in the UK without the need for any voltage transformers?

The price out here is very good compared to the UK and I would be interested in taking one home with me when we move.

Thanks.
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post #814 of 849 Old 03-22-2015, 03:40 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moggi1964us View Post
Gentlemen,

am I right in thinking that a REL T-5 or T-7 purchased in the US will be able to be played in the UK without the need for any voltage transformers?

The price out here is very good compared to the UK and I would be interested in taking one home with me when we move.

Thanks.
No.

http://rel.net/wp-content/uploads/20..._Rear-Nbgr.png
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post #815 of 849 Old 03-22-2015, 05:37 AM
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I see! Didn't notice the little blacked out box adjacent to the specific voltage.

Shame! Thought I might have saved myself a few quid there

Thanks fatbottom, stopped me making an ill advised purchase.
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post #816 of 849 Old 06-04-2015, 09:48 PM
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Hey all, any REL 212se owners on here? Just got my set and was wondering about anyone elses break in experience.
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post #817 of 849 Old 06-04-2015, 09:51 PM
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Just to be safe do at least 1000 hours of break in using a semi-quasi-rigid waveform in the range of 20hz-1000khz (just to be sure). This is specific to the 212se owners.
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post #818 of 849 Old 06-04-2015, 11:55 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drillt View Post
Hey all, any REL 212se owners on here? Just got my set and was wondering about anyone elses break in experience.
Just play music for a few hours at a safe level. I like to bed in the drive cones for a bit, rather just blast away movies straight away.
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post #819 of 849 Old 06-08-2015, 07:52 PM
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Howdy,

Question- I have a REL B1 sub. In the past, I ran my REL spec cable to a multi-channel amp with no issues.

I have recently moved to mono amps. With the spec cable to the monos I am getting a hum when the amps are moved to idle via my trigger cable from pre/pro. When I bring the system up the hum halts.

Any idea what is causing this? Again, hum only occurs when mono amps are moved into standby mode.

Thanks
Rick
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post #820 of 849 Old 07-06-2015, 07:56 PM
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I just bought a REL T9 to go with my Sonus Faber Venere 3.0 speakers. The Venere are floor models from Magnolia so they have been break in. Not the T9. How should I go about breaking in the T9? What kind of music?

BTW, do you recommend connecting the T9 to the R & L front amp channel in addition to the .1/LFE?
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post #821 of 849 Old 07-06-2015, 08:19 PM
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You Rel guys are just too funny. Why on earth would you use both speaker level and line level inputs simultaneously? What seems like that's a good idea? Break in is pretty much just use the damn thing. Either it needs it (somewhat possible on a sub) or it doesn't but you're not likely to tell the difference without an active imagination.....IMHO.
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post #822 of 849 Old 07-06-2015, 09:18 PM
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According to the REL instructions, they claim that by connecting the L/R amp channel to the REL will sync the sub better with the L&R channel in addition to the LFE line. It's a newbie buying my first ever sub so I don't know better than to follow the instructions.

According to this article, it has adv & disadv.
http://www.sonusfaber.com/ContentsFi...ision_1_13.pdf


It claims it can even blow your front speakers because of the low frequency it's outputting.

I'm puzzled and wanted to get some owners feedback.
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post #823 of 849 Old 07-06-2015, 11:07 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pchangavs View Post
According to the REL instructions, they claim that by connecting the L/R amp channel to the REL will sync the sub better with the L&R channel in addition to the LFE line. It's a newbie buying my first ever sub so I don't know better than to follow the instructions.

According to this article, it has adv & disadv.
http://www.sonusfaber.com/ContentsFi...ision_1_13.pdf


It claims it can even blow your front speakers because of the low frequency it's outputting.

I'm puzzled and wanted to get some owners feedback.
They are talking out of their arse. Still stuck in hifi era.

For a AV system, use the subwoofer output.
In a 2 channel system, either use L/R pre-out from your pre-amp, or speaker level from your integrated.

There is no need to send high level (full-range) and low level to the sub.
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post #824 of 849 Old 07-07-2015, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Q View Post
When you run your main speakers full range, which is the case for pretty much every REL owner, you will have similar problems. Most regular rooms like mine have a room mode somewhere between 30HZ and 50Hz. If I crossed my sub @ 45Hz, based on the spec sheet of Dynaudio, I would make the 20dB hump even worse. With an active crossover this would be a different thing, yes, but I think many people that buy a REL have it connected to a Stereo Int amp like me, feeding it a full range signal.

IIRC REL's crossover slopes @24dB per octave.

I've already treated my room with bass traps for the 70Hz and higher frequencies. I hoped to fix the humps below that with the MiniDSP, but with no success on my first try using the REW measurements.
Very late to chime in, I know, but I have to agree with what Mr. Q writes. I have a B1 mated to a pair of Dynaudio Sapphires at 23Hz and it's because of a room node in the low 30s. Setting the sub so low doesn't exacerbate the node much but still gives a solid foundation down REAL low, but only when the music calls for it!
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post #825 of 849 Old 08-24-2015, 08:16 AM
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Hello,
I have a REL s/3 along with a pair of B&W CM10s2 floor standers.
The REL is connected via the high level connection to my amp - ATI6002.

I wonder at which level should I cross the real using it's own controls?
I keep fiddling with the settings... in some recordings it sounds great (electronic music) but then too bass heavy (acoustical music)...

Also, do we know what are the corresponding frequencies on the frequency cutoff dial? I'm usually around 3 points form the bottom...

Please share your thoughts, thank you!
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post #826 of 849 Old 10-08-2015, 02:51 PM
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Rel 212/SE owners. How is this sub in HT??
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post #827 of 849 Old 10-09-2015, 12:08 AM
 
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At £3000 it better be good. Personally I'd be looking at PSA S3600i or a Seaton Submersive, or a Ryhtmik F15HP
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post #828 of 849 Old 10-09-2015, 10:39 AM
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My experience with two REL subs T9 and my last one a 528SE is they are nice for underpinning the mains and can make the overall sound better and satisfy for a music system. But they are overpriced and hyped as being more "musical" and "faster" than other subs though I think that is just a selling strategy. I'd look into those other brands mentioned in that price range and even cheaper for HT and forget about the REL.
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post #829 of 849 Old 12-19-2015, 05:15 PM
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Am I allowed to post a listing to sell two REL subs on here?

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post #830 of 849 Old 12-19-2015, 05:52 PM
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Am I allowed to post a listing to sell two REL subs on here?
You can under Audio Gear under Classified forums.
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post #831 of 849 Old 01-21-2016, 09:14 AM
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I am new here. First time I've heard of REL was a few months ago.
I have a Sunfire TSEQ-12. Plenty of power. But my room opens into a hallway, so bass distribution is poor. How would you compare Sunfire to REL, as a brand? I am looking for a REL 212SE, but I am not sure it will be an improvement from the TSEQ-12 I mostly listen to jazz and classical, not a big HT fan. Thanks

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post #832 of 849 Old 01-21-2016, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pchangavs View Post
I just bought a REL T9 to go with my Sonus Faber Venere 3.0 speakers. The Venere are floor models from Magnolia so they have been break in. Not the T9. How should I go about breaking in the T9? What kind of music?

BTW, do you recommend connecting the T9 to the R & L front amp channel in addition to the .1/LFE?
Not sure about the T9 but that's what I have with my Strata III.
Connecting both low and high level input. I thought it's weird but heck, that's what they wrote in the user's manual.
On the Strata, there is a switch to toggle between the 2 modes though.
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post #833 of 849 Old 03-01-2016, 08:52 PM
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edit:I read in this thread that the T5i does not go very low. In fact my speakers go lower than it does. I guess that is out. Leaving the S2. I have no idea how the Q108MKII goes so low. Maybe I should just keep it. Of cours the rel rep said the T5I kicks it's butt. He sells it and it is new. I cannot see how the T5i outperforms the Q108MKII. Please correct me if I am wrong. The Q can hit hard. It is fast enough for the speakers I have.


I posted this in the subwoofer forum. They informed me to post it here. I hope cross posting is okay.

I am a Rel fan. So I only want to discuss that. In my bedroom where ther eis limited space I have an old Q108MKII. Rel told me the upgrade to that is the T5i and it is much better. I know one must listen but looking at the specs that is not an upgrade.. It seems to me the real upgrade is currently the S2. I was wondering if per the specs everyone here agrees. I do not see the T5i being much better than the Q108MKII. It may be somehwta faster but it does not go nearly as low. Low frequency extension is number one on my list. there for I do feel the S2 is the logical upgrade. I do not have more space than that. I was just wondering if in fact that is a parallel upgrade or if it is in fact the T5i It would seem by their product lineip it is the T5i but I feel the S2 is the one that actually has similar specs to the Q108MKII. How that little sub goes so low i do not know. The T%I doe snot nearly. Please advise me.
Thank you


Relevant part of second post in that thread.

Thanks guys. i did not know there was a rel thread but not sure it is okay to cross post now.Ii know you guys are mostly theater. this is music only. For that rel really does a great job imo. I don't know of better subs for music but i guess you guys can tell me. I noticed something else about rel. they brag hard about their composite cone in the t series.The s2 is paper like the q108. above that is carbon fiber. so it looks like it honestly goes with them composite>paper>cf..It does appear the s2 is the proper replacement if i stick with rel. I asked them and they simply said the t5i will kick the q108's butt.That also seemed shady. Bet it does not.


I am wondering if I should even "upgrade". The Q108MKII is a heck of a small sub. I am kind of aken aback he said the T5i will kick the Q108's butt. I guess I have to listen. I am not sure it is really an upgrade but the S2 certainly should be since it has much more oomph.

The only restriction here is I cannot go bigger than a one foot cube. Given that I am not sure where to go. I am into low frequency extension over speed. The Q108MKII is 23HZ at -6 DB. which is amazing for it's size. It will go down to 8HZ at -40db. Then it cuts off. The T5I is not speced as well and not a paper cone.

I am just not convinced the T5i is a major upgrade but I am sure the S2 is. I Feel Rel is the only option for 2 channel music though.

What do you guys suggest? I apologize for such a long post
Thank you

Last edited by TriTon464; 03-01-2016 at 11:59 PM.
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post #834 of 849 Old 03-08-2016, 05:49 PM
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The speakon is key. I a, not sure about made in China. I think if you have a UK made rel hang onto it. Otherwise there is MJ Acoustics. Guys that left rel and made in UK still. Maybe better, maybe not just not a big fan of made in China.Only reason is to cut cost......and corners usually. I cannot even hear the new Rel's but I am wary that they are better than their predecessors. Did hear MJ and honestly comparable to the Q108MKII. However it was 10" and the Q108MKII is 8". MJ claims 13HZ. However I doubt that. They sounded very similar which is no surprise other than the MJ was larger. Granted I do not crank these things. I just want low frequency reinforcement. For it's size the Q108MKII fits the bill. The T5i I doubt is any better but perhaps the S2 is. It remains built in China so I am left with MJ if anything. They are very similar design to the old Rel's. It is interesting that their larger sub sounded similar even though they "claim" lower frequency extension. It simply does not go to 13hz. The T5i I highly doubt compares. Even though they say they have employed better technology. Specs are not as good and that is certainly where they would be liberal. I guess I am just keeping what I have. It serves it's purpose fine.

I was just wondering what people feel about Rel now that is really Sumiko and fabricated in China. Perhaps you care or not. I am not sure they are better but may be more cheaply constructed. Not sure as I have not seen one yet.
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post #835 of 849 Old 03-11-2016, 12:52 AM
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I have a pair of R528 connected with the speakon connection and LFE.
This is the best solution if you intend using the preamp or integrated AV amp in Direct mode (Pure mode for some) for music bypassing all the processing (Eq and bass management).
The problem with almost all RELs is that they are not capable of handling signals below 25 Hz. There is a steep cut off at around 23 Hz which is only good if you think that such solution can preserve your sub from being blown out by some films' sound effects (read the thread about the first few seconds of Edge of tomorrow).
When palying films they are OK, but do have some limitations in terms of the impact they are capable of providing.
Therefore, if it is flexibility you are after then REL is a very nice solution. If it is great movie experience you are looking for, then REL may not be the solution for you.

In Europe their appeal has somewhat fallen due to the steep price and not great customer support. Spare parts are scarce and often not available for products that have just been pulled off the shelf (including speaker cones and grills).

I have also discovered that the R528 suffers from a resonance at 25Hz coming from its passive woofer, which on some program may generate a flapping (ie during the first few seconds of Edge of Tomorrow and during the THX life trailer).

When I will change these subs, I am quite sure they will not be Rel.
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post #836 of 849 Old 03-12-2016, 09:18 PM
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It was only for music. I gather the UK made Rel's by MR. Lord are better than their Chinese counterparts. Obviously Sumiko would beg to differ. They are not even Rel anymore. They are sumiko. I doubt sumiko owns the factory either. They job this out I am almost sure. At the current prices I would probably forget Rel. Anyways I got a Martin Logan dual opposed 15". It is obviously much more powerful than the Rel for movies. ly the old Rel may be better with music. I have not quite decided yet though. That was there thing, music. They really excelled at that as being woofers not really subs. They blend very well. Simply reinforcing the speakers. Not going to hear impressive explosions. I just question the new ones although I have yet to hear one. They claim use of better materials but some of the best subs in the world still use pulp. I am just wary of jobbed out China goods for that price. If they were under $500 for a 12" fine. I could be wrong and I am not bashing China. I guess I am bashing sumiko. They are a distributer not a manufacturer. Now all of the sudden they are a manufacturer. Not sure. Especially since they may not in fact be manufacturing themselves anyways. I am still proud to own one from the MR. Lord era. Not everything newer is necessarily better. Surely, perhaps not in this case. I will know for sure once I hear one. Who knows, I may eat my words.
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post #837 of 849 Old 03-12-2016, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriTon464 View Post
It was only for music. I gather the UK made Rel's by MR. Lord are better than their Chinese counterparts. Obviously Sumiko would beg to differ. They are not even Rel anymore. They are sumiko. I doubt sumiko owns the factory either. They job this out I am almost sure. At the current prices I would probably forget Rel. Anyways I got a Martin Logan dual opposed 15". It is obviously much more powerful than the Rel for movies. ly the old Rel may be better with music. I have not quite decided yet though. That was there thing, music. They really excelled at that as being woofers not really subs. They blend very well. Simply reinforcing the speakers. Not going to hear impressive explosions. I just question the new ones although I have yet to hear one. They claim use of better materials but some of the best subs in the world still use pulp. I am just wary of jobbed out China goods for that price. If they were under $500 for a 12" fine. I could be wrong and I am not bashing China. I guess I am bashing sumiko. They are a distributer not a manufacturer. Now all of the sudden they are a manufacturer. Not sure. Especially since they may not in fact be manufacturing themselves anyways. I am still proud to own one from the MR. Lord era. Not everything newer is necessarily better. Surely, perhaps not in this case. I will know for sure once I hear one. Who knows, I may eat my words.
Just to keep it real, somewhat, your BF 212 is named that for a reason, it's a dual opposed 12" driver arrangement.....not a 15". The rest of your rant is all yours....
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post #838 of 849 Old 03-13-2016, 11:39 AM
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Sorry. I got carried away. I really did not mean to upset anyone. Maybe they are better i just have not heard one. Again, I have nothing against China.
That being said I actually mis-typed that. I did in fact mean 12 Inches. I apologize for that typo.
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post #839 of 849 Old 03-13-2016, 07:16 PM
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I did have a question now that you corrected me. Outside of some very exclusive sub's aren't 15-18's boomy, bad for music? Anyways I am happy with the ML. It is musical Imo and it is obviously way more powerful than my baby Rel. I am not sure but I would guess my new sub is made in China as well. Which is perfectly fine with me. It is not China I complain about but that I feel sumiko disbanded a brand. It is not really anymore. It is sumiko or something else entirely. That is just my feeling from what I know to be true. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong. I do agree they probably have "updated", more advanced drivers. Have no idea about the sound. MJ which is basically the remnants of Rel is fine. Even though they grossly exagerate their low end. Those kind of subs really cut out at 23HZ in my experience. The ML should go lower than that I would imagine.
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post #840 of 849 Old 03-13-2016, 07:28 PM
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Bigger drivers do not mean boomy or bad for music, "audiophile" nonsense. Try #6 in this list of bass myths. I've not had issues with my 15"s or 18"s, they do better in all respects over my 8, 10 and 12" driver subs.
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