Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 28 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #811 of 825 Old 02-02-2015, 07:24 AM
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REL Stentor internal rewiring

Hi everyone! I own a pair of REL Stentor III. I'm in the process of replacing ALL factory wires inside my Stentors with decent quality copper cables. I'm replacing the crappy factory caps too. Has anyone tried such a thing with your REL subs? If you have, would you share details here, please? Of course I'm interested what the results sounded like. Thanks! Anyone?
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post #812 of 825 Old 03-06-2015, 08:42 AM
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Guys I really need help - despite reading various help links at the begining of this thread.
I upgraded from mrx700 to 710 receiver and bought two REL S5 subs that should be radio linked (Longbow).
I understand that both subs will work as dual mono.
How on earth do I start the setup if I really cannot alter the positioning ( both subs pointing forward on the inside of both main front speakers) ?

When I switch the mrx on do I try fiddling with the sound of each sub separately , then run them both to fix phase, and then run arc ?
Any advice on settings?
I have no local dealers for either make and had to buy from abroad so I have nobody to talk to.

Please do let me know any hints, tips or tricks to get this right.

Many thanks
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post #813 of 825 Old 03-21-2015, 09:22 PM
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Gentlemen,

am I right in thinking that a REL T-5 or T-7 purchased in the US will be able to be played in the UK without the need for any voltage transformers?

The price out here is very good compared to the UK and I would be interested in taking one home with me when we move.

Thanks.
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post #814 of 825 Old 03-22-2015, 03:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moggi1964us View Post
Gentlemen,

am I right in thinking that a REL T-5 or T-7 purchased in the US will be able to be played in the UK without the need for any voltage transformers?

The price out here is very good compared to the UK and I would be interested in taking one home with me when we move.

Thanks.
No.

http://rel.net/wp-content/uploads/20..._Rear-Nbgr.png

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post #815 of 825 Old 03-22-2015, 05:37 AM
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I see! Didn't notice the little blacked out box adjacent to the specific voltage.

Shame! Thought I might have saved myself a few quid there

Thanks fatbottom, stopped me making an ill advised purchase.
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post #816 of 825 Old 06-04-2015, 09:48 PM
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Hey all, any REL 212se owners on here? Just got my set and was wondering about anyone elses break in experience.
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post #817 of 825 Old 06-04-2015, 09:51 PM
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Just to be safe do at least 1000 hours of break in using a semi-quasi-rigid waveform in the range of 20hz-1000khz (just to be sure). This is specific to the 212se owners.
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post #818 of 825 Old 06-04-2015, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drillt View Post
Hey all, any REL 212se owners on here? Just got my set and was wondering about anyone elses break in experience.
Just play music for a few hours at a safe level. I like to bed in the drive cones for a bit, rather just blast away movies straight away.

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post #819 of 825 Old 06-08-2015, 07:52 PM
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Howdy,

Question- I have a REL B1 sub. In the past, I ran my REL spec cable to a multi-channel amp with no issues.

I have recently moved to mono amps. With the spec cable to the monos I am getting a hum when the amps are moved to idle via my trigger cable from pre/pro. When I bring the system up the hum halts.

Any idea what is causing this? Again, hum only occurs when mono amps are moved into standby mode.

Thanks
Rick
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post #820 of 825 Old 07-06-2015, 07:56 PM
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I just bought a REL T9 to go with my Sonus Faber Venere 3.0 speakers. The Venere are floor models from Magnolia so they have been break in. Not the T9. How should I go about breaking in the T9? What kind of music?

BTW, do you recommend connecting the T9 to the R & L front amp channel in addition to the .1/LFE?
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post #821 of 825 Old 07-06-2015, 08:19 PM
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You Rel guys are just too funny. Why on earth would you use both speaker level and line level inputs simultaneously? What seems like that's a good idea? Break in is pretty much just use the damn thing. Either it needs it (somewhat possible on a sub) or it doesn't but you're not likely to tell the difference without an active imagination.....IMHO.
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post #822 of 825 Old 07-06-2015, 09:18 PM
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According to the REL instructions, they claim that by connecting the L/R amp channel to the REL will sync the sub better with the L&R channel in addition to the LFE line. It's a newbie buying my first ever sub so I don't know better than to follow the instructions.

According to this article, it has adv & disadv.
http://www.sonusfaber.com/ContentsFi...ision_1_13.pdf


It claims it can even blow your front speakers because of the low frequency it's outputting.

I'm puzzled and wanted to get some owners feedback.
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post #823 of 825 Old 07-06-2015, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pchangavs View Post
According to the REL instructions, they claim that by connecting the L/R amp channel to the REL will sync the sub better with the L&R channel in addition to the LFE line. It's a newbie buying my first ever sub so I don't know better than to follow the instructions.

According to this article, it has adv & disadv.
http://www.sonusfaber.com/ContentsFi...ision_1_13.pdf


It claims it can even blow your front speakers because of the low frequency it's outputting.

I'm puzzled and wanted to get some owners feedback.
They are talking out of their arse. Still stuck in hifi era.

For a AV system, use the subwoofer output.
In a 2 channel system, either use L/R pre-out from your pre-amp, or speaker level from your integrated.

There is no need to send high level (full-range) and low level to the sub.

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post #824 of 825 Old 07-07-2015, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Q View Post
When you run your main speakers full range, which is the case for pretty much every REL owner, you will have similar problems. Most regular rooms like mine have a room mode somewhere between 30HZ and 50Hz. If I crossed my sub @ 45Hz, based on the spec sheet of Dynaudio, I would make the 20dB hump even worse. With an active crossover this would be a different thing, yes, but I think many people that buy a REL have it connected to a Stereo Int amp like me, feeding it a full range signal.

IIRC REL's crossover slopes @24dB per octave.

I've already treated my room with bass traps for the 70Hz and higher frequencies. I hoped to fix the humps below that with the MiniDSP, but with no success on my first try using the REW measurements.
Very late to chime in, I know, but I have to agree with what Mr. Q writes. I have a B1 mated to a pair of Dynaudio Sapphires at 23Hz and it's because of a room node in the low 30s. Setting the sub so low doesn't exacerbate the node much but still gives a solid foundation down REAL low, but only when the music calls for it!
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post #825 of 825 Unread Today, 08:16 AM
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Hello,
I have a REL s/3 along with a pair of B&W CM10s2 floor standers.
The REL is connected via the high level connection to my amp - ATI6002.

I wonder at which level should I cross the real using it's own controls?
I keep fiddling with the settings... in some recordings it sounds great (electronic music) but then too bass heavy (acoustical music)...

Also, do we know what are the corresponding frequencies on the frequency cutoff dial? I'm usually around 3 points form the bottom...

Please share your thoughts, thank you!
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